To date, a lot has been achieved constructive solutions for finishing the ceiling. They allow you to use many different finishing materials, create unique interiors. The most popular are suspended (suspended) ceilings, this is greatly facilitated by the relative ease of installation of the structure, which even a person with minimal construction skills can handle. So, let's try to figure out how to make a suspended ceiling with your own hands.

Advantages of hanging structures

Apart from excellent appearance hinged structures also have engineering advantages.

• The suspended ceiling structure can play the role of a sound insulator; these qualities are enhanced when special materials are placed in the frame of the system. The same method is used to insulate the room, so it is possible to kill two birds with one stone, because as a bonus you get a method for improving sound and heat insulation (see).

• Many finishing materials used for suspended ceilings increase the fire safety of the room (plasterboard (see), various types metals, glass).
• As strange as it may sound, certain models can even reduce energy consumption for lighting. The reflective properties of polished metals and mirrors make it possible to create a more even distribution of light, which reduces the number of lamps required for a room.
• Due to the distance to the ceiling, there is the possibility of hidden wiring of various communications.

Types of suspended ceilings

All main types of ceiling finishing, depending on the installation method, can be divided into the following conditional groups.

Plasterboard ceilings

This group also includes structures whose cladding uses PVC panels (see) and other similar materials. They are united by the same design of the supporting frame.

Before you make such a ceiling yourself, you need to draw up a clear layout of the frame elements, this will simplify further work.

Going to similar system from wooden beam with a cross section of 25x30 mm, or a special metal profile:

• The starting profile UD, has dimensions of 27x28 mm, is mounted on the wall, forming the outline of the future ceiling. Fastening is carried out using dowel nails " quick installation" or simple self-tapping screws, for example, to wooden surfaces.
• The CD profile is the main element of the frame. With its edges it is inserted into the starting profile, and attached to the ceiling using ordinary direct hangers.

The installation step of the supporting profiles is usually 40 or 60 cm, depending on the location of the gypsum board sheet. Beginners, when deciding how to install a suspended ceiling, sometimes try to save on the number of points for attaching the profile to the ceiling; this approach is fundamentally wrong.

The manufacturer clearly indicates the fastening step, no more than 400 mm. Otherwise, such savings can lead to deformation of the entire structure after some time.

The supporting profiles are connected to each other by special jumpers made of the same material. It is better to fasten them together using special connectors, crabs.

Advice! If you have some experience, you can do without them; the profile is simply cut in a certain way and secured with self-tapping screws.

Modular hanging systems

Another great option to solve this issue. Particularly suitable for offices, premises with large area, but, with a non-standard approach, it can become a decoration for a residential apartment.

Cassette suspended ceilings

Cassette models are distinguished by the ease of installation of the frame and the variety of materials used.

Unified frame elements simplify the installation process. Basically, in structures of this type, wall (L-shaped) and load-bearing (T-shaped) profiles are used. To simplify fastening, the supporting shelf of the profile is perforated, that is, it is possible to fasten it with adjustable butterfly hangers. The principles of height adjustment are standard; leveling it is not difficult.

The cell size is usually 600x600 or 600x1200 mm, it all depends on the material of the slab and your design desires. Original design create the use of stained glass or metal modules.

Slatted suspended ceilings

Their difference lies in the use decorative elements, the length of which is significantly greater than the width. In principle, this is clear from the name. The slats, which have a slightly rounded cross-section, are fastened to special supporting profiles called stringers.

The advantage of this type of design is the absence of additional fasteners; you will be surprised to learn how to make a ceiling of this design yourself. The decorative strip is installed on the stringer installed according to the technology by lightly pressing, the shaped base of the supporting profile will reliably fix the element of the future ceiling.

Advice! The length of the strip should be several smaller size rooms, literally by 5-10 mm, then it will be easier to install the rail.

The materials used for such structures make it possible to create ceilings various configurations, and the bending of the coating allows for a smooth transition between different ceiling levels.

Lattice suspended ceiling

This is the clearest example of how high-tech ceilings are made. The lattice structure of such a ceiling, covered on the back side with the material you like, could easily pass for the design of a spaceship or the room of a representative of an extraterrestrial civilization.

Considering that the cell size is relatively small (from 50x50 to 200x200 mm), the result is a rather rich and original structure. The material is usually decorative polished metals.

Stretch ceilings - modern classics of the genre

One of the most expensive, but also one of the most worthy options. Does not require additional load-bearing structures; installation of a special profile along the contour of the ceiling is sufficient. A special PVC membrane, which is most often used as the starting material, stretches under the influence of a flow of warm air.

After installation, during the cooling process, the true size of the workpiece is restored, resulting in a perfect flat surface, the color and texture of which will depend only on your taste.

As a conclusion, I would like to say the following. Today, the use of such ceiling finishing structures is the most acceptable option even for small apartments. Comparing how to make suspended ceilings and how to equalize differences between floor slabs that reach 10 cm or more, you understand that the first option is simpler.

And if you have any other questions or lack visual information on the topic, just watch the video below. If in this case a lot of questions arise, entrust this work to a professional.

Considering that you will already be thoroughly savvy, it will not be difficult to control the quality of any stage of work. And a real professional, whose services we hope you will resort to, will never allow himself any hack work.

Any major renovation apartments or office space It starts with the ceilings. Working with uneven or rough concrete ceiling may become too time-consuming and costly. In addition, it is impossible to guarantee that all deficiencies will be eliminated. In that case great solution can be a self-made suspended ceiling. Its production cannot be called simple, but if you follow the recommendations and rules, it is quite within the power of home craftsmen. In this article we will tell you in detail how to make suspended ceilings with your own hands, what tools and materials you will need in your work, and how to perform the calculations.

What are suspended ceilings?

So, a suspended ceiling is understood as a decorative structure that is fixed on guide profiles and gives the room an aesthetic appearance, while masking all defects in the rough surface and placed communications or wires, if any. Moreover, the suspended ceiling plays the role of an insulating and sound-absorbing barrier, which is especially important in multi-story buildings.

To build a suspended ceiling with your own hands, you must first secure a special frame structure made of longitudinal and transverse profiles and hangers. The actual suspended ceiling material will subsequently be attached to them. This can be either drywall or special panels.

Please note that there are several types of suspended ceilings. In particular, mesh, lattice, rack, which are also called modular. If plasterboard is used to cover the frame, then such a ceiling is called solid. In cases where drywall is fixed directly to rough ceiling without suspensions, then we are talking about a suspended ceiling.

Advantages and disadvantages of a suspended ceiling

Naturally, for any species decorative finishing there are both advantages and disadvantages.

Among the advantages of suspended ceilings are:

• The ability to hide any imperfections of the rough ceiling - the presence of gaps, cracks, chips and potholes, unevenness and level differences.
• Aesthetic appearance - thanks to this decor, the room can be transformed and decorated.
• Lots of room for imagination - you can vary the height and levels of ceilings, combine several types of material;
• It is possible to install any type of lighting - both main lamps and additional lighting, based on the initial project.
• Ensuring high-quality sound insulation and insulation.
• Convenient and easy maintenance - just wipe off the dust with dry cloths.
• Variety of ceiling surface finishes.
• It is easy to disguise all communications inside the suspended ceiling structure.

However, even such seemingly ideal suspended ceilings in all respects are not without a number of disadvantages.

The most significant among them are:

• The ceiling structure, as a rule, “steals” about 7-8 cm or more of the height of the room, since it is necessary to secure the frame for its installation.
• Depending on the complexity of the design and the size of the room, installation of a suspended ceiling can take quite a lot of time - usually several days.
• The costs of purchasing materials for suspended ceilings can be quite significant, especially if the materials purchased are not the simplest and cheapest.
• If any communication lines were installed above the ceiling, access to them must be provided by making a special window.
• Since drywall is not highly moisture resistant, in rooms with high humidity, for example, bathrooms or lavatories, swimming pools or saunas, such material is not recommended.

Tools and materials

Before you make a suspended ceiling with your own hands, you will need to purchase a complete list of materials for the frame, plasterboard, as well as the finishing option chosen to your liking.

The first step in in this case will be a self-assembled suspended ceiling frame. In this case, you need to decide what material it will be made of - wood or metal. If you decide to stop at wooden version, then you will have to purchase bars that will be attached to the ceiling surface on hangers. If you choose a traditional metal frame option, then to create it you will need to purchase several types of metal profiles.

Please note that profiles and beams can be either main or load-bearing. In the case of the manufacture of a metal frame, previously only load-bearing profiles were used, but in lately There is a tendency to combine load-bearing and main profiles. As for wooden blocks, they can also be combined so that the final structure does not turn out to be too heavy.

According to step-by-step instructions, a do-it-yourself suspended ceiling is assembled from galvanized metal profiles marked PP 60/27 and PNP 28/27. Foreign analogues can be labeled as CD and UD.

In addition, during the installation process you will need a set of hangers that are fixed to the ceiling and hold the suspended frame, anchors and dowel-nails, connecting “crabs” for joining jumpers, as well as two types of screws - small ones with a drill for metal products and on drywall.

The main material used for lining a solid suspended ceiling is plasterboard.

Depending on the characteristics, there are several types of drywall:

• gypsum board marking is assigned standard material;
• GVKL is a designation for drywall with moisture-resistant qualities;
• GKLO - such drywall contains fiberglass in its composition, therefore it has fire-resistant properties;
• GKVLO marking is assigned to a material that combines both fire-resistant and moisture-resistant qualities;
• GVLV is plasterboard with the best performance characteristics, top quality, sometimes also called “superlist”.

The most affordable and optimal weight is standard drywall marked with gypsum plasterboard. It is most often chosen for cladding ordinary residential premises, which are not subject to increased safety requirements.

Sheet Options standard drywall usually these are:

• length – 1500-2500 mm;
• width – 600-1200 mm;
• thickness – 9.5 mm.

Before making a suspended ceiling, you will need to calculate the amount of materials for repairs. Numerous online calculators can help with this, however, in practice, you can handle this task yourself. If you determine the surface area of ​​the ceiling and the dimensions of the plasterboard sheets, you can easily calculate how many sheets will be needed to completely cover the area.

Please note that a plasterboard suspended ceiling will have a fairly large mass. Each 1 m2 of standard drywall weighs about 13-15 kg, so it’s worth calling a helper to equip the ceiling.

It is worth noting the fact that the seams between the sheets of drywall will weak points structure, again due to its significant mass. In these areas, the subsequently applied plaster may crack. Therefore, at the finishing stage, these places will need to be given special attention.

To work with suspended ceilings you will need the following tools:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• ladder;
• construction knife;
• level, preferably laser;
• roulette;
• pencil for marking.

If equipment is planned complex system backlights, then all lamps and LED strip must be purchased in advance. In addition, it is important to outline the location of lighting fixtures and lay electrical wires for them even before covering the surface with plasterboard.

The outside of the plasterboard ceiling will need to be refined.

For this you will need:

• primer mixture;
• starting and finishing putty;
• spatula;
• reinforcing mesh to strengthen joints and seams.

The approximate amount of materials for arranging a suspended ceiling per 1 m2 of plasterboard looks like this:

• anchor bolts – 1 piece;
• PP 60/27 or CD profiles – 2.9 m
• PP 28/27 or UD profiles – along the perimeter of the drywall;
• sealing tape - along the perimeter of the material;
• direct suspension, rods and suspensions - 1 piece each;
• metal screws – 2 pieces;
• self-tapping screws for drywall - 23 pieces;
• connecting crabs – 2 pieces;
• profile extensions – 0.2-0.5 units;
• dowels per 1 m of PP 28/27 profile – 2 pieces;
• reinforcing mesh – 1.2 m;
• separating tape – along the perimeter of the material.

Please note that before starting work, it is worth planning your actions in detail. Make a detailed step-by-step scheme which you will follow. It will also help in calculating the amount of materials.

Installing a single-level ceiling step by step

We will describe the process of assembling a single-level suspended ceiling with your own hands in step-by-step instructions. If all materials and tools have already been purchased and prepared, then you can begin installing the ceiling. However, first you need to remove unnecessary pieces of furniture from the room or at least cover them if the first option is not possible. After this, you can begin marking the walls and ceiling, as well as install fasteners.

Stage 1. Take a tape measure and measure the height of the ceiling in each corner of the room. In this way we find the lowest point - we will start from there.

Stage 2. We put 5-8 cm down from the corner and put a point in this place. Please note that if there are additional lamps that require their own wiring, the indentation should be made a little larger.

Stage 3. In each corner we place dots that correspond to the level of the first mark.

Stage 4. We connect all the marks with straight lines using a pencil or paint cord.

Stage 5. We take the supporting profiles PP 28/27 (UD) and attach them to the wall along the marked lines. First, we apply the profile with its lower edge above the marking line. Then we place points on the wall through the holes in the plank, marking the places for drilling. We drill holes in the wall. Pay attention to the profiles themselves. If they do not have prepared holes for fastening on the sides, you need to drill them yourself, stepping back from the edges by 10 cm.

Stage 6. We glue the prepared profiles with sealing tape and fix them to the wall with dowel nails.

Stage 7. The hangers will be at a distance of 40 cm from each other. Therefore, you need to draw lines on the ceiling with the indicated indentation.

Stage 8. Since connecting jumpers will be installed on the profiles approximately every 2.5 m, the hangers will be attached in increments of 50 cm. In this case, to install the first row of hangers, we retreat 25 cm from the wall, and the next one after another 50 cm, that is 75 cm from the walls. We fix all subsequent rows in increments of 60 cm.

Stage 9. So that the holes for the hangers are in in the right places, apply them to the markings on the ceiling and re-mark the points for drilling holes. We place anchors in the finished recesses and secure the hangers with them so that they do not sag, otherwise the work will be ruined.

Stage 10. We begin the installation of suspensions. If their length does not fit into the parameters of the room, they can either be shortened or lengthened. To increase the length of the profile, you can connect two strips special devices. It is worth checking that the joints in adjacent rows are spaced apart and close to the hangers, otherwise the frame may not support the weight of the drywall. The total length of the profiles in one row should be 1-2 cm less than the size of the ceiling. In this case, each plank must be attached to the hangers and guides from the corner of the room, using self-tapping screws. Lastly, profiles are installed in the central part of the room.

Stage 11. First, we attach two rows of profiles to one side of the ceiling. Then we move to the opposite wall, where we also fix two rows of profiles. After this, you can move on to the central bars.

Stage 12. Using crabs and self-tapping screws, we install jumpers in increments of 2.5 m. They are located in places where the joints between adjacent sheets of drywall will pass.

Stage 13. Finally, we move on to fixing the drywall. We cut the edges with a knife so that we get a small corner. This will improve adhesion to the putty. If the ends are pasted over from the factory, then leave them as is.

Stage 14. Screw the sheet, starting from the corner. We apply the sheet to the profiles with a distance of 0.5 cm from the wall. We screw in the screws every 20 cm. At the seams between adjacent sheets, we place the screws staggered. We slightly deepen the heads of the screws into the surface of the drywall so that they do not peek out. We also lay the plasterboard sheets themselves offset so that the 4 pieces do not converge at one point.

Finishing

The process of assembling a suspended ceiling does not end with the installation of drywall. After this, the entire surface of the ceiling still needs to be improved. You can choose any type of finishing to suit your taste - simple or textured plaster, painting, wallpapering or other options. However, in any case, it is necessary to treat the surface - putty the seams, joints and recesses from self-tapping screws. First, the surface is primed and then covered with putty.

After the first layer of starting putty has dried, a reinforcing mesh (serpyanka) is laid on the joints and seams and another layer of the mixture is applied. If the seams between the sheets are too wide, they are filled with putty mixture. In addition, during the grouting process, you will probably notice any flaws on the drywall - scratches, peeling paper, etc. These defects also need to be laid with sickle and putty.

In order for the putty to better adhere to the material, it is better to make the edges of the drywall at the joints slightly rounded. Then the mixture will penetrate as deeply as possible into the space between the sheets. The reinforcing tape and putty layer must be aligned with the thickness of the drywall. This is possible because the edges of the sheets are slightly narrowed in thickness so that the reinforcing mesh can be recessed.

If you cut the drywall yourself for mounting on the ceiling, then first the cut edge must be cleaned with a plane or knife at 45 ℃. This will create a wedge-shaped groove into which the putty and reinforcing tape will fit freely. In this case, the putty will adhere well to the drywall.

Once the entire surface of the drywall has been covered with the starting putty and dried, you can apply the final layer of finishing putty mixture.

Thus, the technology of how suspended ceilings are made includes preparing the surface, laying electrical wiring for lighting, assembling the frame, attaching drywall, installing lighting and finishing surfaces.

1. Use only materials good quality. This way you will ensure yourself a reliable and durable ceiling covering.
2. Take your time while working. Make a plan, spend more time on surface markings and calculations, so as not to make mistakes and not run to stores for missing materials.
3. GKL brand drywall should only be used in dry rooms.
4. Level is your best assistant.
5. To further soundproof the room, use mineral wool, placing it above the frame.
6. Before you begin attaching the drywall, leave it lying flat for a few days.

Installing suspended plasterboard ceilings is not such a difficult task. This instruction will help you make a suspended ceiling with your own hands and avoid mistakes and shortcomings.

In addition to their decorative function, suspended ceilings also have a practical benefit - they completely hide the ceiling, all its imperfections, wiring and irregularities. Installing a suspended ceiling will not take much effort; you can install it yourself.

Ability to hide the ceiling

The most important thing is why people pay attention to suspended structures. The surface does not need to be leveled, there is no need to make separate niches for the wires, everything can be hidden.
But what is an advantage is also a disadvantage.
A suspended ceiling takes up space and will make your room at least 5 cm lower. Installation in small rooms means they will be reduced even further. You can cope with this using mirror or glossy surfaces. This will help visually expand the space.

Suspended frame structure

Its installation is not difficult. Anyone can handle this. Slats, cassettes or gypsum board sheets are attached to the frame. There shouldn't be any problems with this either. You don't need any specific tool or knowledge.

Care

Wiping periodically is enough. But the plasterboard ceilings will require updating. They need to be painted over time.

Strength

Depends on the selected material. If we talk about metal slats, then they have little to worry about. But plastic and drywall are afraid of strong impacts.

All materials are fireproof and do not support combustion. In addition, the price is any suspended structure will cost less than other types of expensive finishes.

What are suspended ceilings made of?

Types of suspended ceilings differ in the materials used; the fasteners for suspended ceilings are the same - the frame.

One of the most common types of suspended ceilings is plasterboard ceilings. Drywall is not afraid of heat like, for example, plastic. It does not deform from closely located lamps, so their choice is much wider.

In appearance, plasterboard structures are in no way inferior stretch ceilings. You can create structures from one or more levels. With or without a pattern, in any color.
However, drywall does not tolerate moisture. They prefer not to install it in the kitchen or bathroom. If you do install it, you need to treat the surface with a moisture-repellent compound. The surface of drywall must be periodically updated with painting.

Rack or panel ceilings. Slats can be made of three materials: wood, plastic and metal.
Plastic slats are one of the most budget-friendly types of finishes. But they are not used so often. It's all about their appearance: they look quite simple. Plastic will not last long; over time it will begin to turn yellow. It is worth choosing not the cheapest panels, and then your ceiling will look better, but then PVC panels will no longer be considered budget types of finishing. Plastic is not afraid of wet rooms, but it is better to protect it from direct contact with water.

Metal slats. They are made from steel or aluminum. The second option is more common. Aluminum is indifferent to water, corrosion, temperature changes, high and low temperatures. This good option for the bathroom, hallway or kitchen. The surface of the slats can be matte, glossy or mirror. Such ceilings may take centimeters from the ceiling, but they visually increase the space due to their texture.
Wooden slats can be hard on your wallet.
Wood remains one of the most expensive materials. Its appearance is not very diverse, but it is completely environmentally friendly and safe. You can actually install it anywhere, it all depends on the type of wood and the amount you are willing to pay.
Along with slats, there are cassette ceilings. In principle, they do not differ in the type of materials, only in appearance.

Preliminary surface preparation

Installing a suspended ceiling with your own hands is simple and does not require many costs. But, despite the fact that the design of the suspended ceiling hides the ceiling completely, preliminary work cannot be done. The scope of work depends on your desire. You can make a major overhaul or simply prime the surface.

The first stage of work is the removal of all lamps. Remember to turn off the electricity before starting work. Dismantle everything lighting fixtures. Secure the wires with electrical tape at the future location of the devices. Working with the ceiling involves dirt and dust, so cover all furniture and the floor with film.

Surface preparation is necessary. If you do not do this, debris will subsequently fall onto the new materials, and mold and mildew may spread to the finished floor.

To prepare you need:

• Remove old coating. This is optional, but the longer you leave old paint and wallpaper, the more difficult it will be to remove;
• Wipe off old stains. This is also not necessary, but the same principle works: the longer, the more difficult;
• Seal cracks and holes;
• Ceiling primer. It is necessary to prime the ceiling, regardless of your coating. The primer will save you from the appearance of mold and mildew.

You can remove old wallpaper or whitewash using a warm soapy solution. Simply wet the entire surface with water and remove the coating with a rag. If a rag doesn't help, use a spatula. If this does not help, then use chemicals.

Delete old paint can be done using a special solution, which can be purchased at any hardware store. There are more budget option- beat it off with a hammer.
Stains can be removed with alcohol or gasoline, depending on their origin. Mold and mildew can be removed with baking soda or vinegar. If folk remedies did not help you, then try buying special substances with a more aggressive composition in the store.

Holes are sealed with putty. For larger ones you can additionally use polyurethane foam. Cracks can be repaired using silicone sealant.
After all the above work, it’s time for the primer. The choice of primer is not important, as long as it is resistant to moisture and contains substances against the formation of mold. Apply the primer in several layers. The final surface must be smooth.

Required materials and tools

The frame of a suspended ceiling consists of profiles and hangers. To calculate the required profile length, you simply need to add the length of all four walls.
Take a little more profile just in case. The suspensions are attached to the ceiling at a distance of 100 cm from each other. Calculate by area how many you will need. The material for the frame is calculated based on the area of ​​the room. It needs to be divided by the area of ​​the material, no matter what you choose: tiles, slats or cassettes, everything is calculated the same. Also take some material in reserve, in case something gets damaged during the work.

The frame is installed using dowels and screws. They are located at a distance of 40 cm. Don’t forget to buy them in the right quantity. If you are installing a ceiling in the bathroom, you better buy special screws so that they don’t rust later. The slats and cassettes are installed directly into the frame, but the gypsum board sheets are attached using self-tapping screws. Therefore, if you install them, purchase more. The slats are attached using tires. In general, when choosing, try to purchase already assembled kits from one manufacturer. This way you will get rid of the problem that one type of material does not fit another.

The tool you will need is a screwdriver, since you will have to screw in a lot of screws; it is difficult to do this by hand. To make holes for mounting you will need a hammer drill.
During the process you will need to cut the material. The profile and metal slats can be cut with a grinder, metal scissors or a hacksaw. Plastic can be cut with the same thing, but it is imperative that the teeth are small. Drywall can be cut with a regular construction knife.

How to install a suspended ceiling

The suspended ceiling is installed according to the markings. To apply it you will need a tape measure, a laser or water level, a pencil or a rope. When marking it is better to use laser level, he will do everything more accurately and quickly. Simply place it on a flat surface and adjust the settings as needed. Draw a horizontal line along the lasers.

If there isn’t one, then don’t worry. You can also measure manually. To do this, you need to measure each corner from floor to ceiling with a tape measure. This is necessary to determine whether all your angles are the same. If not, then place a mark in the lowest corner at the distance required for the structure. Then install three more marks in each corner from the floor at the same distance. Connect them together with a rope and draw a line along it with a pencil.
To determine how much you need to retreat from the main ceiling to the finished ceiling, you need to know the length of the lighting fixtures. The width of their body is the required distance.

Installation of suspended ceiling

How suspended ceilings are made. First, install the frame. To do this, you need to secure the guide profile to the wall with self-tapping screws. The carrier is inserted into the guide. The holes should be spaced at a distance of 40 cm. Install hangers and tires. The frame is ready. Next, work directly with the material. The slats or cassettes are installed in the profile until it clicks. This fills the entire ceiling. GKL sheets are attached with self-tapping screws.

Upon entering any room, the first thing that somehow comes into view is the ceiling. The overall perception of the interior and the impression it makes depends on its design and appearance. It is for this reason that designers try to pay special attention to the ceiling. Thanks to the development of technologies in construction and the emergence plasterboard structures, the possibilities for creating unique suspended ceilings have become almost unlimited. Today, the abundance and availability building materials allows you to create a suspended ceiling with your own hands without any problems, the main thing is to be able to use the tool and know how to make a suspended ceiling. Despite the ease of installation, it is impossible to do it alone, so invite a couple more assistants.

Basic design of a suspended ceiling

The design of suspended ceilings is single-level or multi-level metal frame, attached to the ceiling and walls of the room, which is lined with sheets of plasterboard with built-in lighting fixtures.

To create the frame, galvanized metal profiles PP 60/27 and PPN 28/27 (imported analogue of CD and UD) are used, parts of which are connected to each other with metal screws and special single-level (crabs) or two-level connectors. To attach the frame to the ceiling, straight or spring hangers are used, secured to the ceiling with anchors or dowels.

For covering the metal frame, gypsum plasterboard sheet (GKL) with a thickness of 9.5 mm, a width of 600 or 1200 mm and a length of 1500 - 2500 mm is used. Fixing the gypsum board to the metal frame is done with drywall screws. Recommendations for choosing gypsum boards of precisely these parameters are determined by the optimal combination of strength and weight of the suspended ceiling. Subject to technology total weight 1 m2 of construction will be about 13 kg.

Preparatory work: stages

As with any other construction work, before making a suspended ceiling, you will have to do some preparation. This will concern the surface of the old ceiling, creating a design project and hanging diagram, and calculating the necessary materials.

Let's prepare the floor surface

The ceiling surface must be carefully prepared: remove old finishes, repair

Although the suspended ceiling will hide the surface of the ceiling, draw a series preparatory work will have to. This will make it easier to install the ceiling and provide reliable fastening the entire structure. We begin work by removing the old finish, which we completely remove to the putty or plaster, and if there was none, then to the ceiling. Then we carefully check the surface for cracks, partially or completely peeled off putty or plaster.

If everything is in order, then you can prime and putty the surface, and then proceed to further work. Otherwise, you will have to carry out more thorough repairs, perhaps even re-plaster the ceiling. Ideally, you should get a strong and flat surface to which the metal frame will be attached.

Design project and suspended ceiling diagram

The creation of a suspended ceiling begins with the development of its design project. Today, thanks to various architectural programs, creating such a project takes very little time. These programs allow you to examine and select the most attractive future suspended ceiling in volume and color.

Our video review about what types of suspended ceilings there are:

On top of everything else, computer programs will allow you to create and print a diagram of a suspended ceiling with all necessary materials and their quantity. But those who are used to doing everything the old fashioned way - on paper - will have to work a little more. Creating a diagram and calculating materials manually is carried out as follows:

• the first thing needed for calculations is to measure the room and calculate the perimeter. For example, we have a room measuring 3x5 m. P=(3+5)*2=16 m. This will also be the length of the guide profile PPN 28/27. We transfer the size of the room to scale onto paper;

Example of a suspended ceiling diagram

Important! When measuring a room, you may find that opposite walls have different lengths. In this case, we take the largest value for calculations.

• the next step is to calculate the frame profile. The supporting frame will be made of PP 60/27 profile, which is attached to the ceiling in increments of 600 mm. For ease of installation, the length of one profile strip will be equal to the width of the room. We calculate the number of slats as follows: 3000/600 = 8.3 and round to the nearest whole number. To evenly distribute the planks, we place the first and last at a distance of 100 mm from the walls, and all the rest in increments of 600 mm. This step was not chosen by chance. The fact is that gypsum board has standard width 600 mm and 1200 mm, and for reliable fastening it is necessary that the edges of the sheets lie on the profile. We mark the placement of the profile strips on the diagram;

• Now you need to calculate the number of hangers. All hangers are attached to the ceiling in increments of 600 mm. All frame profile strips will require (3000/600)*8=40 hangers. We attach the first and last suspension at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, and all the rest in increments of 600 mm. In the diagram, we mark the place of their attachment with crosses;

Important! Direct hangers can be used in two cases. The first is when the height of the suspended ceiling does not exceed 120 mm, the second is when the surface of the ceiling is absolutely flat. Otherwise, it is recommended to use spring hangers and constantly monitor the horizon using a level.

• To add rigidity to the suspended ceiling structure, you will need to additionally install lintels from the PP 60/27 profile. The jumpers themselves are installed between the main load-bearing planks with a pitch of 600 mm. To fix them, a special connector is used - a crab. The number of connectors is calculated as follows ((3000/600)-1)*8=32 pcs. Why exactly 32 pieces, and not 40. The fact is that the first line of jumpers is installed at a distance of 600 mm from the wall, the second 1200 mm, the third 1800, the fourth 2400. The fifth row is the wall itself. Now we mark on the diagram the place where the crabs are attached and, by connecting them with a solid line, we get the location for installing the jumpers.

Important! There are two types of connectors: single-level (crab) and two-level. The difference is in the method of fastening and in the height of the final structure. Thus, the crab allows you to place all the profile strips on the same level, and overall height profile with gypsum board will be 27+9.5=36.5 mm. The height of the profile and gypsum board with a two-level connector will be 27+27+9.5=63.5 mm. In addition, the profile consumption in the second case will be greater. But which method to choose is up to the master to decide.

All that remains is to calculate required quantity sheets of drywall. Everything here is extremely simple, knowing the area of ​​the room is 5*3=15 m2, and the area of ​​one sheet, for example 2.5*1.2=3 m2, we get 15/3=5 sheets.
Now we calculate the number of screws. This must be done based on the following data:

• for fastening to the ceiling and walls, dowels and 6x60 screws are used, the pitch for fastening to walls is 300 mm, for the ceiling 600 mm;
• to fix the profile and hangers, profile and crabs, you will need a self-tapping screw LN 9, LN 11. For the profile and hanger you need 2 screws, for the crab and profile 4 screws;
• MN 30 self-tapping screws are used to fix the gypsum boards. The pitch between the screws is 250 mm.

In the end, all that remains is to mark the location of the lighting fixtures on the diagram and calculate the required amount of wiring.

How to make a suspended ceiling yourself

About how to install a suspended ceiling with listing various options installation, you can write a small scientific report. In this article, we will look at the simplest installation option, which you can do on your own, without having the professional skills of a builder.

Working with a marker and tape measure

Installation of suspended ceilings begins with marking the surface of the ceiling. If the surface of the ceiling is flat, take a tape measure and a marker. We measure the height of the future suspended ceiling without taking into account the sheet of drywall. We put 3 - 4 marks along the entire length on each wall, then take the painting thread and connect the marks in one line. This line will be a guideline for the PPN 28/27 guide profile.

Now we apply markings on the ceiling for the main profile PP 60/27 and suspensions. We retreat the required distance from the walls, put a few marks and mark a line using paint thread. We repeat the procedure for all other planks of the supporting profile in increments of 600 mm. On the marked lines for the frame profile we mark places for direct hangers, as shown in the diagram.

Ceiling frame installation

We fix the profiles to the walls and ceiling, forming a frame for plasterboard sheets

Having finished with the main markings, we proceed to the installation of profiles. We start with a guide profile PPN 28/27 along the perimeter of the room. We take a hammer drill or a drill in our hands and, along the previously drawn line, drill holes for 6x60 dowels. We drill the same holes on the profile. For reliable fastening, drill the first and last holes 100 mm from the wall, all subsequent holes 300 mm from the wall. We drive dowels into the resulting holes and screw the PPN profile into place.

Important! During the installation of a suspended ceiling, you will have to screw in a lot of various self-tapping screws, so use a screwdriver. This will greatly speed up and facilitate all work.

The next step is to fix the hangers. To do this, take the suspension and apply it to the mark on the ceiling. It should be located strictly in the middle of the line and at right angles to it. We mark a place for the dowel and drill a hole. Then we drive the dowel inside and screw the hanger on. We repeat the entire procedure for 40 suspensions.

Important! The hanger can be secured with 1 or 2 dowels, it depends on how reliable design want to receive.

Now we fix the main frame. To do this, we bend the antennae of the suspensions down so that the profile fits freely between them. We bring the profile inward and fix it at the required height on the sides with metal screws.

Example: what the frame of a multi-level suspended ceiling might look like

Having secured all the profile strips, take a tape measure and mark the places where the crabs are attached. Then we place them on top of the profile with the tendrils down and press down firmly to snap them inside. Having done this, we proceed to cutting jumpers from the PP 60/27 profile. To do this, we will use a grinder or metal scissors and cut the entire profile into pieces. We take the size on the basis that the jumper will fit tightly between the main planks. Having cut the required amount, we proceed to installation. Place the jumper underneath the crab and press them tightly together so that the crab snaps inside. Having installed all the jumpers in this way, we align them in a straight line according to the drawn diagram. Then we fix all the crabs and profiles together with 4 screws.

Frame installation is complete. You can install heat and sound insulation, as well as lay wiring for lighting.

Rules for covering the surface of gypsum boards

We install gypsum plasterboard sheets to the ceiling frame: plasterboard slabs are attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws

We apply sheets of drywall to the prepared frame and screw it to the profile with self-tapping screws. We make sure that the edges of the plasterboard lie on the profile. For reliability, we fasten all the sheets apart. To do this you will have to trim some, but this is done very easily. First, cardboard is cut under the ruler on one side, the plaster is carefully broken, and then the cardboard is cut through on the other side.

After installation, you first need to putty the butt seams and the places where the screws are installed, then cover the entire ceiling with putty mixture

Video guide: installation of Knauf ceiling

The installation of the suspended ceiling with your own hands is completed, all that remains is finishing. To do this, carefully putty and level all the joints and places where screws are screwed in. We wait until the putty is completely dry, and then apply finishing layer finishing materials. Finally, we install the lighting fixtures. All work on installing a suspended ceiling is quite simple for beginners in the construction business. The main thing is to follow the work technology.

Today, a wide range of building materials makes it possible to createDIY suspended ceiling, all you need is the ability to use the tools and clear instructions. It is worth noting that you cannot cope with the installation alone - you need to take care of at least two assistants.

Construction device

A suspended (another name is suspended) ceiling is iron structure, consisting of one or several levels, which is attached to the ceiling and sheathed with plasterboard (installed if desired).

The frame usually consists of metal profiles UD or CD, connected to each other with self-tapping screws, and fastening “crabs”. The frame is attached to the ceiling with special hangers (they can be spring or straight).

Attention! The structure is sheathed with sheets 0.95 cm thick and dimensions 60x120x150-250 cm (the last value is length). If installed correctly, the weight of the ceiling will be 13 kg/m².

Now let's look at the installation technology.

Stage 1. Preparatory work

Despite the fact that suspended ceilings hide the entire floor area, the surface will still have to be prepared.

Step 1: Remove old finish.

Step 2. The ceiling is inspected for cracks, dents, etc.

Step 3. If everything is fine, the ceiling is primed and puttied. The result should be a flat and smooth surface.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Stage 2. Creating a project

To create a project, it is advisable to use one of the many architectural programs that allow you to obtain a finished diagram with the exact quantity consumables. But if you plan to do everything on paper, then you will have to spend a lot more time and effort.

Step 1. First, the perimeter is determined - there is a special formula for this (for example, the dimensions of the room are 5x3 m):

(5 + 3) x 2 = 16 m (P)

The resulting figure will also be the length of the guides. The calculation results are transferred to graph paper.

Attention! If length opposite walls different (this often happens), then the larger value should be taken as a basis.

Step 2. Next, the frame profile is calculated. A 2.7x6 cm profile will be used for the frame - it is attached in 60 cm increments. The length of one profile should be equal to the width of the room. To calculate the number of slats, the width of the room (300 cm) is divided by the pitch (60 cm), resulting in 8.3 (rounded to 8).

The first and last planks must be installed 10 cm from the walls, the rest - with the step indicated above. By the way, the length of the step is not accidental, since standard plasterboard sheets have a width of 60 cm or 120 cm.

The location of the planks is indicated in the project.

Step 3. The number of hangers is determined, which are fixed with the same step of 60 cm. 300/60 x 8 = 40 pieces. The first and last of them are installed 30 cm from the walls. The location of the hangers is indicated in the project with crosses.

• height hanging structure exceeds 12 cm;
• The ceiling surface is absolutely flat.

Step 4. Calculate the number of connecting jumpers (necessary to increase rigidity):

((300/60) – 1) x 8 = 32 pieces

Step 5. Next, all that remains is to calculate the amount of drywall and screws. There is nothing complicated about this, because total area room is already known (15 m²), and the area of ​​one sheet (determined by size) will be 3 m². Therefore, a total of five sheets will be required.

Calculating the number of screws consists of several stages.

1. Products 6x60 are used for the ceiling (step – 60 cm) and walls (step – 30 cm).
2. Thirty-point self-tapping screws will be required to fix the drywall (step – 25 cm).
3. The fittings are fastened with self-tapping screws LN-11, two pieces each for profiles and hangers, four pieces each for profiles and “crabs”.

After this, lighting fixtures are noted in the project and the quantity is determined.

Stage 3. Surface marking

First you need to mark the ceiling, which will require a marker and tape measure.

Step 1. The height of the suspended ceiling is measured (the thickness of the drywall is not taken into account). Three or four marks are made on each wall, which are connected using painter's thread into a continuous line. In the future, a guide profile will be installed along this line.

Step 2. Next, the ceiling is marked for suspensions and the main profile (2.7x6 cm). An indentation is made from the walls at the distance indicated above, several marks are made and a line is drawn (the same as in the previous paragraph). The procedure is repeated for all planks, that is, every 60 cm. The points of attachment of the suspensions are marked along the lines.

Stage 4. Installation of the suspended ceiling frame

To assemble the frame, you need to prepare the following materials:

• profiles (guides and for ceilings);
• dowels;
• self-tapping screws of all specified types;
• pendants;
• X-shaped brackets.

Step 1. A guide profile is installed along the entire perimeter. Holes for dowels are drilled along the previously made line, and similar ones are made in the profiles. Then dowels are driven into the holes and the profile is screwed on.

Attention! It is advisable to use a screwdriver in your work, since you will have to screw in a lot of different screws. This tool will make the job much easier.

Step 2. Next, the hangers are fixed. Each hanger is applied to the mark strictly in the center of the line, after which the locations for the dowels are marked and holes are made. Then the dowels are driven in and the suspension is attached. A similar procedure is carried out for each of the forty suspensions.

Attention! To fasten each element, you can use either one or two screws. It all depends on the desired strength of the structure.

Step 3. The frame is installed. All suspensions have antennae that are bent downward enough so that a profile can fit between them. The profiles are inserted inside and fixed with self-tapping screws at the required height.

Step 4. After attaching the planks, mark the places where the “crabs” are fixed (you will need a tape measure). The “crabs” are inserted with their tendrils down over the slats and pressed tightly until they snap into place.

Step 5. Jumpers are cut from a 2.7x6 cm profile. First, the entire profile is cut into pieces with a grinder so that each finished jumper fits tightly between the guides.

Step 6. After cutting, the jumpers are mounted. Each jumper is placed under the “crab” and pressed against it so that it snaps into place. After installing all jumpers, they should be aligned in accordance with the diagram.

Step 7. The profiles are connected to the “crabs” with four screws.

Stage 5. Insulation

If desired, the suspended ceiling can be insulated, which will require a dense mineral wool and a special fastening system for it, known as a “fungus”.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Stage 6. Sheathing with plasterboard

The sheathing procedure is quite simple and does not require detailed description. Plasterboard sheets are applied to the finished frame and screwed to the profiles using screws. You need to ensure that the edges of the material fit exactly on the profile.

Attention! For reliability, drywall can be attached “staggered”, which is why some sheets will have to be trimmed a little. This is easy to do: on one side the material is cut under the ruler, then the plaster is broken, and only after that on the reverse side.

Video - Installation of a suspended ceiling

Stage 7. Final finishing of the ceiling

Once the installation is complete, all that remains is to do the final finishing.

Step 1. First, all joints between the sheets are carefully aligned.

Step 2. After the putty has dried, apply a layer finishing material(for example, paints, plasters, etc.).

Step 3. Lighting devices are installed.

Video - Insertion of spotlights

Prices for various models of recessed lamps

Recessed luminaires

Features of operation

Conclusion

As it turned out, the work of installing a suspended ceiling is quite simple and even a person without experience in the construction craft can handle it. All that is required is high-quality building materials and strict adherence to technology.

Find out and also review the instructions for self-execution works, from our new article.