Initial stage siding installation - installation of accessories. First, it is more convenient to install vertical accessories (external and internal corners, connecting H-profiles), as well as window and door frames, then horizontal accessories (starter strips), horizontal siding, roof overhang trim, etc.

Before installing siding, make sure that all wall planes are level and straight. basis smooth walls metal or sheets of moisture-resistant plywood can serve. If it is necessary to additionally insulate the walls of the house, a film is laid under the sheathing, which protects the insulation from moisture.

Installation of starting bars

Before installing the starting strip, you need to find the lowest point of the wall. Using a level, as well as chalk or a pencil, you need to draw a perfectly horizontal line along the entire perimeter of the building, starting from any corner. After drawing the line, you must return to the same point where you started.

Now you need to find the lowest point of the facade relative to the horizon.

To do this, measure the distances from the line you drew along the corners of the building to the bottom of the wall.

The point where the distance is greatest will be the starting point of installation starting line.

Install the beacon 4.5 cm above the lowest point of the wall and draw another line around the entire facade of the building in the same way. Or you can measure the distance from the beacon to the drawn line at the bottom point of the wall and mark the same distance along the perimeter of the building.

At the corners of the house, it is necessary to measure a distance equal to the width of the outer corner shelf, taking into account the gap for thermal contraction and expansion.

Align the top edge of the starting strip with the drawn line and attach it to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.

When installing the remaining starting strips, do not forget to make indents for temperature gaps.

Setting internal and external corners

Cut off outside corner to the required length minus 6 mm (compression-expansion gap).

Lower the lower edge of the outer corner by 4 mm (compression-expansion gap).

Install self-tapping screws into the top of the topmost perforation hole on both sides of the outer corner.

Install the remaining screws in the center of the perforation holes at a distance of no more than 40 cm.

If vertical joining of external corners is necessary, it is most convenient to make an “overlapping” joint.

In order for the connection to protect the facade of the house from wind and snow loads, the upper profile is installed on top of the lower one.

On the top accessory, it is necessary to cut off the strip with perforations and leave only the outer decorative part.

Install the bottom outer corner first, then the top.

Pay attention! The height of the cut part of the corner must be no less than the required compression-expansion gap, and the overlap of the accessories must be equal to the temperature gap plus 2 centimeters.

It is most convenient to mark the joint on the ground or on a table. To do this, place the two outer corners on top of each other with the necessary overlap (20 mm). The intersection is marked and both mounting strips of the upper accessory must be cut according to the marks obtained.

Installation technology internal corner similar to installing an external one.

More budget option mounting an external corner or an internal corner - use two J-profiles instead of the corresponding accessory. Corner of the house in in this case will be "typesetting".

Installation of H-profiles connecting

Think in advance about the location of the H-profiles on the facade of the house. In these places it will be necessary to install additional profiles. As a rule, the connecting H-profile is installed in the middle of the wall and/or used to mark window and door openings.

It is advisable to use H-profiles on long blank walls. They also need to be installed at the junction of the house with any extension, which has seasonal fluctuations different from the house.

Since the H-profile refers to vertical accessories, when installing it, you must follow the same rules as when installing, for example, external and internal corners (the first fastener is installed in the upper part of the upper mounting hole, the rest are strictly in the middle).

The necessary clearances for compression-expansion in this case:

• The top of the H-profile should be approximately 2 mm below the roof overhang.
• bottom part H-profile - approximately 4 mm below the starting strip and VINYL-ON siding panels.

Don't forget to cut off the strip with the perforations and leave only the decorative part of the accessory.

If available design features(for example, a protruding base) that interfere with the thermal expansion of the H-profile, it is necessary to leave a gap of 4-6 mm.

Vertical joining of H-profiles is carried out in exactly the same way as joining of external and internal corners, i.e. necessary:

• Make an overlap of the upper profile onto the lower one.
• Cut the strip with perforations.
• Install the lower profile first, and then the upper one.

Pay attention! The height of the cut part of the profile must be no less than the required compression-expansion gap, and the overlap of the accessories must be equal to the temperature gap plus 2 centimeters.

Installation of window and door frames

Window and door openings in relation to the wall can be recessed deep or located at the same level with the wall.

The VINYL-ON product line, which you can buy in offices selling roofing materials and siding of the Stroymet company, includes special accessories for finishing various types openings.

For finishing windows and doors, j-profiles, near-window profiles or special VINYL-ON j-platbands can be used.

There are two main ways of framing the decorative part of the openings - this is the so-called “overlapping” and “corner” method.

Pay attention! As with the “overlapping” installation method, and with the “corner” installation, the vertical profiles at the joining points are placed under the upper horizontal one, and the lower horizontal one under the vertical ones.

The compression-expansion gap in this case is 1-3 mm in the upper part of the profiles framing the openings on the sides. At the bottom – 3-5 mm. The lower horizontal profile is shortened by 2-3 mm on each side to allow thermal compression and expansion.

When installing profiles at an angle, there is no need to cut both the vertical and horizontal profiles at an angle. In the upper mounting units, it is enough to cut the horizontal profile at an angle, and in the lower ones – the vertical ones.

This principle is applied both when installing j-profiles and when installing j-platbands and near-window profiles.

Finishing of openings with J-profile VINYL-ON

Finishing of openings with a j-profile is carried out according to the following principles:

To finish the opening you will need 4 pieces of J-profile.

The size of each profile is calculated as “the length of the corresponding part of the opening plus two widths of the perpendicular profile.”

For example, in the figure, the width of the window opening is 1200 mm, the width of the perpendicular profile is 77 mm. For the top of the window, you will need a profile with a length of 1200 + 77 + 77 = 1354 mm.

Since the framing of windows and doorways performs not only an aesthetic, but also a protective function, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of water drainage. To do this, on the profile that is installed on the upper part of the opening, Stroymet installers recommend making cuts equal to the width of the perpendicular profile and bending the resulting “tongue” down.

The side profiles are installed in such a way that the cut-out tongue is inside them. To do this, you need to cut a piece of vinyl in the side profiles as well. Don't forget to leave a small gap for compression and expansion. The vertically located profile should not abut the upper horizontal one. In this case, 3-5 mm will be enough.

Pay attention! This principle is used when installing near-window profiles and when installing j-platbands.

Finishing of openings with window profile VINYL-ON

The VINYL-ON product line of accessories for installing vinyl siding includes a “window profile” specially created for finishing recessed openings. The width of the profile working panel is 215 mm, which allows finishing fairly deep windows and doors.

In general, the methodology installation work when installing a window profile, it repeats the principles of working with a j-profile. The main difference lies in the technology for installing the slope part of the profile.

Install finishing strips on the inner slope of the window opening. Subsequently, it is necessary to “start” the slope part of the near-window profile in them.

To maintain the possibility of thermal compression and expansion of the near-window profile:

• the working surface of the near-window profile (forming the slope of the opening) in horizontal profiles should be shorter than the width of the opening by the amount of the temperature gap on each side.
  In this case, it is necessary to cut a piece of the required size in the upper profile, and in the lower one you can leave a “tongue” and bend it onto the slope of the opening.
• the working surface of the vertical profile in the upper joint rests against the horizontal profile. It is necessary to leave a compression-expansion gap in the lower joint.

Finishing of openings with j-platband VINYL-ON

For framing windows and doors installed in the same plane with the wall, the VINYL-ON assortment includes a special accessory - j-platband.

The procedure for installing VINYL-ON j-platbands is similar to the procedure for installing near-window profiles. First, the upper and lower horizontal profiles are installed, and then the vertical side profiles.

Don't forget to leave gaps for thermal contraction and expansion.

Installation of finishing strips and fillets (cornice moldings)

Because the finishing strips are located directly under the roof's eaves or soffit, they are installed almost simultaneously with the final panels of horizontal siding. However, the finish strip must be installed before the last panel of siding is installed.

Typically, the top siding panel will need to be trimmed. In this case, use a punch to make special “petals” in the panel adjacent to the finishing strip and move the panel inward finish bar.

If you plan to install VINYL-ON soffits on the eaves of your house, it is more convenient to use a special VINYL-ON accessory - Fillet (eaves molding) for installing the last siding panel.

The fillet is attached not to the wall, but to the eaves of the roof, so it can be fixed at the distance necessary to “hook” the siding panels.

Insert the siding panel with petals into the lock of the penultimate panel. Upper part insert into the final profile and secure the panel from bottom to top.

The VINYL-ON fillet (cornice molding) can also be placed simply on top of a façade finished with siding. In this case, it is necessary to make additional mounting holes on the last siding panel using a hammer drill. If necessary, a leveling wooden strip is installed under the siding panel.

The panel is attached in the usual way. The fillet is installed on top of the panel and covers the mounting holes.

Installation of accessories on the gable

A j-profile, a fillet (eaves molding) or an internal corner is used as a receiving profile when finishing roof gables.

In general, the installation of j-profiles, fillets and internal corners on the gable of roofs is carried out according to the rules for installing vertical accessories. If it is necessary to join two profiles, overlap the upper profile onto the lower one.

When joining two mounting profiles under the roof ridge, it is necessary to insert the front strip of the upper right profile inside the left one. To do this, you need to place two profiles under the ridge and mark the joining location.

Cut the first profile along the marked line, in the second you need to remove only the strip with the mounting holes without touching the front part. When installing the front strip, you need to insert it inside the first profile.

PLEASE NOTE:

• In the under-eave space on the roof gables, strong heating of the facade quite often occurs. In order to avoid heating the j-profiles, make a retreat of 2-2.5 cm from the corner of the wall and roof connection.
• In the offices of the Stroymet company, in addition to Vinylon products, you can buy vinyl siding marks, .

Installation of soffits and cornice boards

As a reminder, the soffits must be installed before the final siding panel is cut and installed.

Device rafter system may vary from house to house. It is important to understand that to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space the best option is open eaves overhang. Therefore, we recommend that you remove old boards from the closed eaves before installing soffits and accessories.

In the middle of the eaves overhang, install an additional sheathing strip into which you will subsequently need to install fasteners

The receiving profiles into which the soffits will subsequently be mounted must be installed parallel to each other.

To comply with this rule, you must first install the receiving profile on the eaves of the roof. Another receiving profile is installed at the required height directly on the wall of the house using a level.

To install the soffit into the receiving profiles, measure the distance between them (along the inside) and cut the panel 6-8 mm smaller than this size.

Place the soffit into the receiving profile installed on the wall, and then into the profile installed on the eaves.

The connection of soffits at the corners of the roof is usually made at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees.

Installing horizontal siding

The easiest way to install horizontal siding is on a blank wall. But even in this case, it is important to follow the following rules:

• Snap the panels freely, without tension, stop or special physical force.
• Be sure to leave room for thermal contraction and expansion of the panels.
• Be sure to maintain horizontal position when installing panels. A slight distortion of one of them will lead to a distortion of the entire facade. To maintain the horizontality of the panels, control this parameter using a level after each row.

It is necessary to start installing siding panels from the corner of the house or from the doorway.

Slide the first panel into the accessory mounting recess. Engage the panel lock with the starter bar lock and pull up until it clicks into place. But don't pull the panel up too much. Remember that installed panel, must be able to move from side to side.

Start fastening the panel from the middle to the edges. Install the last fastener 10-15 cm from the end of the panel.

ATTENTION! It is prohibited to install horizontal siding all the way into the inside of vertical accessories.

The façade looks most aesthetically pleasing when horizontal panels are connected to each other using a special accessory VINYL-ON (H-profile connecting).

If it is necessary to install panels with overlap, follow the following recommendations:

• Do not place panel joints under or above window openings.
• After 2-3 rows of panels, change the location of the “overlap” on the wall.

In areas of overlap, the panels should be trimmed as follows:

If there are any objects on the wall, always start the row of siding where they are located. This will allow you to avoid unnecessary joints between siding panels.

As a rule, when framing window openings with horizontal siding, the siding panels under the window must be trimmed.

In order to mount a panel under a window, measure the width of the opening, add to this size gaps for thermal contraction-expansion and cut a piece of the panel to the required depth. A gap of 2-3 mm will be sufficient here.

Fastening the siding panel to the bottom of the window opening frame is carried out using the so-called. “petals” applied using a punch.

Attaching the siding panel to the top of the window and door frames uses the same principles.

If it is necessary to install siding panels between closely spaced vertical accessories(for example, between two window openings or between the corner of the house and a doorway), the siding panel must be folded and inserted into the mounting recesses of the accessories.

To install horizontal siding on the roof gable, you need to prepare templates that follow the angle of the roof slope.

To do this, take two pieces of panel. Install one piece on the wall sheathing, and the second parallel to the eaves overhang.

On the first section of the panel, draw a line using the second section as a ruler.

Cut the marked panel along the resulting line. It is this that will serve as the template for all other panels.

In the case of finishing a roof where the angle of inclination changes (for example, an attic sloping roof), it is necessary to make a set of templates for each angle of the template.

In the future, the length of the panels installed using templates is adjusted each time depending on the width of the pediment.

IN mandatory leave a compression-expansion gap between the siding panel and the bottom of the mounting recess of the receiving accessory.

The last panel (under the roof ridge) is installed through its working surface. This is the only place where the fastener can be installed this way.

If a horizontal siding panel needs to be replaced, insert the curved end of the tool under the edge of the panel and grip the back edge of the lock. To open the lock, pull down and slide the tool along the panel. The same procedure, but in the opposite direction, is carried out to re-secure the panel.

Installing siding on walls adjacent to the roof

If you use roofing iron in your structure as waterproofing, when installing the receiving profile, move it 2-2.5 cm from the sheets of tin heated in the sun.

Please note:

• When using uncoated roofing steel as a finish, reflected sunlight may hit the siding panels, which can lead to its heating to more than 55-60°C.
• At Stroymet you can also buy modern roofing materials Russian and European manufacturers – , .

In this case, it is best to install the siding without overlap, using whole panels. If you cannot do without an overlap, it must be done “from the roof”. In this case, the snow will slide down without clogging the gap.

When arranging the appearance of a house using siding, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. This means the installation of sheathing, on which siding panels will subsequently be installed. To properly protect the walls of a house from adverse weather, it is necessary to pay special attention namely the frame, so today we will look at what profiles exist for siding, how to install the sheathing correctly, what distance should be between the profiles, what a starting and finishing profile is.

Facing with siding

Frame structure

Frame for siding

In the system of suspended facades, which includes siding, the installation of panels on a constructed metal frame is implied. Technology for self-installation is very simple, so even a beginner can cope with this process. The sheathing can be made from wooden blocks, but I recommend using a metal profile for siding. Unlike wood, a metal plank is not afraid of moisture and does not deform under this influence, and is also not susceptible to mold. Despite the fact that wooden beams can be treated with special impregnations, after some time they will still come under the influence of negative factors.

On the finishing surface, the lathing is mounted using brackets and profiles. One of important conditions correct installation is the distance between the slats. Normally, this distance between them fluctuates around 40-60 cm. Do not forget that you need to install the metal profile at the same distance. The lathing serves to level the wall and makes it very easy to install the siding in the future. For old houses with curved walls, this option will be excellent and in a fast way leveling the surface.

Important! Plastering walls for houses has not been as popular as before for a long time. To replace her construction market filled with new finishing materials that simplify the process of façade design.

Installation of the sheathing is carried out using the following profiles:

• Starting profile - necessary to complete the lower border of the siding trim. The first strip of siding is attached to this strip; this profile is a guide and must be aligned with the support of a level and plumb
• Finishing - installation of such an element is necessary to secure the last siding panel that meets the eaves
• External corner – for vertical fastening at the corners of the structure
• Internal - for niches of the house
• J-profile – for window opening
• Suspension strip - serves as a drainage system over a window or plinth
• Platband - decorative frame for the opening
• Connecting strip - joins siding panels
• Soffit - it is used to trim the pediment
• J-chamfer – decor for cornice

If you decide to install the sheathing yourself, then follow these rules:

1. The frame must be mounted on surfaces that do not have protruding objects. Therefore, all lights or trim must be removed
2. Old finishing, if it peels off from the walls, must be removed. Metal frame must be installed on clean surfaces
3. Large uneven corners must be leveled out as much as possible. The fact is that the installation will be vertical and with large deviations it will be almost impossible
4. Next comes the marking along which the frame will be installed. Do not forget that the distance between the profiles will be 40-60 cm

Why do you need a starter profile?

Wooden frame for siding installation

If the siding frame is arranged in a horizontal position, then the starting profile will be located at the bottom of the sheathing. The starting profile is mounted using a plumb line and level. It is necessary to set the starting panel as level as possible, thus setting the course for the first panel and all subsequent ones.

Starting profiles have different lengths and widths. And each of them has its own purpose. In a small table I compiled the purpose of the starting strips:

Installing Alta profile

DIY siding installation

I want to say right away that at first Alta’s profile was intended for basement installation. However, now it can be used for complete finishing of facades. By the way, this is an excellent option, since the material for the base is more resistant to any external influences.

Alta profiles can create an imitation of not only wood panels, but also stone or brickwork. Alta stripes are made by pouring under high pressure, you can always choose the most suitable width, color and texture for you. Therefore, even the most individual design ideas can be realized using this material. Before starting the installation of Alta profiles, it is necessary not only to prepare the tools, but also to take the necessary measurements. Always purchase material with a reserve, as waste may appear during pruning. Installation requires flat surface, therefore, if there are some deviations, it is better to eliminate them with the help of a frame.

Installation of the Alta plank begins with securing the starting strip. For this purpose, a plumb line and level are used, and a laser can also be used. Self-tapping screws or dowels should be used as fastening materials. There are special holes for them, between which there is no need to punch new holes. After the first Alta plank has been installed, it is necessary to install all the corner elements, and then move on to the next row. Profile cutting is permitted using circular saw or hacksaws with fine teeth.

Results

Lathing for siding

During the design of the facade, it is necessary to immediately calculate all possible nuances and eliminate them. When purchasing material, you need to check the quality of the product and also look at all product quality certificates. The frame on which the siding will be mounted in the future must be properly equipped. You need to maintain a certain distance between the profiles, and for the arrangement itself it is better to use a metal profile. Special significance has a starting strip that allows you to install the siding panels as evenly and reliably as possible. Unlike a wooden frame, a metal profile is not subject to negative influences and is not at all afraid of water or mold. The distance between the frame elements should be either 40 or 60 cm.

When covering a facade using siding, the use of related accessories will be required.

Accessories (slats and trims) are necessary for edging door and window openings. With their help, the problem of finishing complex areas of the building, such as gables, as well as internal and external corners, is solved.

Additional elements include junction units and joining parts for processing transitions between different planes and materials. The purpose of accessories, their size and quantity depend on the area of ​​the building and the nature of its facade.

Types of parts

To choose the right necessary elements decorative cladding and to understand their types, it is necessary not only to know the dimensions and purpose of the components, but also to take into account the features of the constructed structure.

This cladding detail is used as a starting profile from which the main installation process begins. Its installation involves fixing the top edge with nails along a pre-applied chalk line.

Hinged bar

To protect the siding from rainwater flows, install a hinged strip. It is mounted above the top opening of the window or in the place where the plastic cladding panel meets the base of the building.

The length of the hanging bar is the same as the starting element.

Connecting and window strips

Connecting piece (3.05 m) provides connection decorative panels together at the joints in order to hide the seams.

Along with the J-Trim element, the window trim (3.05 m) serves as a trim for door and window openings and is attached along their perimeter. There is a wide (more than 14 cm) variation of the window strip, its purpose is similar.

Related Items

External and internal corners at the junctions of two walls are covered with corner accessories, the length of which is 3.05 m. The roof eaves are finished with a J-chamfer (3.66 m). Standard (3.66 m) and wide platbands edge the openings.

Niches around windows and doors are sheathed with additional strips, the width of which ranges from 23 cm. Corner radius components are a rounded analogue of the external corner parts, and can be used together with a wide casing or separately from it.

Finish strip and soffit

Before installing the last row of vinyl panels, the finishing fastening element (3.66 m) is installed, which is the final decor of the facade.

The soffit dimensions are 3 m long and 0.23 m wide. This facade decor provides ventilation exterior finishing building and its roofs. It is usually used for cladding gables. It can be produced with partial or complete perforation, as well as without it.

Installation

Based on professional experience, we can say that the selection and purchase of the necessary additional parts for siding is only part of the whole process, the basis of which is their competent installation according to the instructions.

Here you cannot do without special skills, otherwise the result of the work may be disastrous. After becoming familiar with the technology of building cladding vinyl planks You can make decorative cladding yourself.

Additional parts for siding are intended for finishing decorative finishing facade and give it a finished, neat look. Siding accessories may vary in configuration and color depending on the brand. Their sizes may also vary, despite the fact that most manufacturers adhere to generally accepted standards.

Installation features

As mentioned earlier, there are several main varieties additional elements for facing strips that are attached to the facade on different stages installation

Before installing the main panels, fix the starting profile. It is nailed or screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws. Next, the first sheet of siding is adjusted to fit it.

The side panels are closed using a J-Trim strip, and window and door openings are decorated with a special profile, which is also used for lining minor recesses. If it is necessary to dock plastic panels along the length, use a connecting segment (their dimensions are the same), and an f-profile is suitable for securing the spotlights.

The components for vinyl material are similar to similar accessories used when working with other cladding panels, but they may differ slightly from each other. For example, when finishing the base, a wider starting strip and a corner segment are used. TO metal panels You can order accompanying extensions up to 6 meters in length.

Even if we are dealing with a flat façade plane, it is recommended to install decorative strips on a metal profile. Similar design from wooden beams more difficult to implement and less effective.

Unlike galvanized sheathing, it requires additional treatment with antiseptics.

A high-quality metal base can withstand heavy loads, so it is suitable for fixing metal siding.

Advantages of lathing

The main advantages of the frame are:

• the ability to visually align the walls of the house;
• ventilation façade equipment;
• insulation of walls, which will have a positive effect on the indoor climate and help save on heating costs.

For siding sheathing, the correct choice would be a profile with a cross-section of 2.7x6 cm with special sides, which act as a kind of stiffening ribs. When installing the base, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the main cladding elements. To fix the slats to wooden frame ordinary self-tapping screws are sufficient, and in the case of brick or concrete wall You can’t do without dowels.

The heavier finishing material, the smaller the distance between the metal profile should be. According to the standards, the pitch between the sheathing slats is 0.6 and 0.4 m for vinyl and metal material respectively. The frame slats are installed perpendicular to the fixation of the decorative cladding.

Or siding is a modern and simple way to complete the cladding of a house. For correct fastening panels require a starting, finishing, drain or base strip and other mounting elements. Let's talk about the features of choosing and installing these important details.

Types of planks

Typically, a set of strips comes with a document that describes in detail their purpose and installation procedure. There are no fundamental differences in the installation of parts from different manufacturers. For this reason, you can safely use the instructions given in this article.

All mounting elements have a special shape and purpose. They also come in different sizes and prices. Let's look at the features of the most popular types of planks.

For reliable and accurate fastening of the panels, a number of auxiliary elements. Click to enlarge.

The starting bar, which is often called the initial bar, is used to install the first panel. Standard length this profile is 3660 mm. During work, you need to take into account such a feature of the material as thickness. The strip is very thin, so it is attached directly to the surface to be treated.

The installation of panels begins from this strip.

The initial strip is installed across the sheathing, and a rigid base is placed under it. The base material depends on the characteristics of the sheathing. For example, for wooden sheathing a rack or perforated corner, and for galvanized sheathing - UD profile.

If you have a branded facade subsystem with ventilation, then there is no need to additionally mount the base - this has already been provided by the manufacturer.

Interestingly, if you install the siding yourself, the color of the initial strip does not play any role. This is due to the fact that it will be completely covered by panels and will not affect the appearance cladding. The profile is fastened using nails or self-tapping screws.

Outwardly it looks like a J-profile. Their only difference is the thickness (it is much smaller for the finishing frame). It is used to attach the finishing panel and finish the edge of the cut sheet. Since it must be fastened across the sheathing, it is necessary to first make the base more rigid. For this, the same materials are used as in the case of the initial plank.

In appearance, the finishing strip is very similar to the J-bar.

Most stores sell products with a length of 3660 mm, but other sizes can be found if necessary. The fastening of such a profile is carried out arbitrarily, that is, when screwing in a self-tapping screw, it is not adjusted by 1-2 turns. The nail is also not finished to 1-1.5 mm. This method makes the fastening more resistant to weather conditions. With temperature changes, it will be able to decrease and increase without deforming the structure or affecting the appearance of the building.

Inner and outer corner

This type of strips is used to connect parts of siding and external design corners

1. Outer corner. The standard length of the part is 3050 mm. The fastening is done arbitrarily, as with the previous plank. This allows the corner to change size with temperature changes. This profile also has decorative properties. You can find corners whose surface is similar to a brick or looks like natural stones. The installation will be the same regardless of the pattern. Due to the specific dimensions of the corner strip, the sheathing must be installed at a distance of 10 cm from the corner of the house. This will help to join the edges of the perforated tape and the sheathing.
2. Inner corner. This strip also has a length of 3050 mm. It is used to install the inner corner of the panels. Installation is carried out arbitrarily. The quality of work depends on compliance with the conditions for the sheathing profiles described in the previous paragraph.

Internal and external corners.

G-bar and G-chamfer

1. The J-profile is used for finishing the facing surface and internal corners of the building. This is one of essential elements for siding, as it is universal. It is mounted on convex parts. When installed on slopes, it protects them from rain and snow. It is also useful if the siding ends on one wall and does not go to another. The length of the bar is 3660 mm. The fastening is done arbitrarily. When finishing a building with metal siding using G-plank, the end result is neat.
2. J-bevel, which is also known as wind bevel, is used to finish narrow strips. This profile can be useful when finishing a cornice or balcony. The chamfer has a length of 3660 mm. Despite the fact that its fixation is carried out on finishing profiles, it is better to use stainless self-tapping screws.

Slope and H profile

1. A window or slope strip is attached in those places where it is necessary to close thin depressions. Most often it is used to cover the slopes of doors and windows. Installation of the bar is carried out arbitrarily. Its length is 3050 mm.
2. The connecting H strip is used when the length of the installed panels does not match the dimensions of the walls. Standard profile length is 3050 mm. The fastening is done arbitrarily. The plank is mounted along the sheathing before attaching the siding, so additional profiles are attached for it. They must have a horizontal orientation. They are fastened every half meter.

Platband and hanging strip

This type of plank is used quite rarely and not all manufacturers have it. Sometimes the casing is sold labeled “wide G-profile”. Most often it is used for decorative purposes. It is installed at the joints of different types of siding. It is also often used to frame a window if it is flush with the wall. The length of one strip is 3660 mm. The fastening is done arbitrarily.

Element - platband.

Drain plate

The purpose of this bar becomes clear from its name. It is necessary for drainage and drainage of water. In addition, it has decorative properties. Typically, a drain or plinth strip is required when designing the transition space between the plinth and the facade. Due to the nature of its design, it cannot become a guide profile for fastening siding. A starting bar is mounted on top of it, and a corner or rail is installed under it. This is necessary for rigidity. The length of the plank is 3660 mm.

When installing planks, remember that the durability and beauty of the siding directly depends on them. You can avoid unevenness if you think about the installation and ensure that the siding panels are 50 mm shorter than the clear installation length. Otherwise, under the influence high temperatures it will seriously deform or bend the bar. In any case, you will need to make repairs, that is, remove panels and strips and then reinstall them.

If during installation you find that you do not have an internal corner, then it’s okay. Instead, you can use 2 J-planks, having first attached each to a separate plane.

The diagram shows in which places of the structure which elements are used.

What is required to cover a house with siding?

1. Cord.
2. Square.
3. Construction level.
4. Saw or hacksaw for working on metal. It is important that the saw has fine teeth. Large teeth can damage parts. Moreover, it is difficult to perform small jobs with them.
5. Cutter knife. You will need it to mark the lines along which the panels will run.
6. Screwdriver and screws.

In general, installing the planks does not present any serious difficulties. To make the work easier, purchase all the materials in advance and think about where each panel will be attached.

Despite large number varieties of planks and technical details installation, you can do everything yourself.

For an untrained person, the variety of exterior finishing materials available on modern market, may cause some confusion.

Such advantages often become decisive factors when choosing siding for cladding a house. The only question remains the installation technology, which should be discussed in more detail.

If you have no experience finishing works, the best solution becomes siding, which has a number of advantages over other types of finishing:

• There is no need for “wet” work (applying plaster, etc.).
• Restrictions due to weather or temperature conditions is determined by the employee himself based on his own feelings.
• Installing the material does not require any special skills; the ease of installation makes it possible to cover the house yourself.
• The result of the work looks very impressive and lasts a very long time.

This article is step by step instructions on installation for dummies.

Siding is a cladding material used for exterior finishing of buildings. It has the shape of elongated narrow stripes with a longitudinal relief applied to them, imitating various options wooden structure (most often) or, less often, masonry.

The strips (panels, lamellas) are equipped with special sides for fastening to the support on one side and for connecting to each other on the other. The design allows you to assemble canvases of any size from them.

The siding is assembled right on site, which is convenient and practical. The panels are lightweight, so they are easy to lift and carry. In principle, it is possible to work alone, but for large areas with long panels you need an assistant.

The birthplace of siding is Canada, where it was first produced.

The first samples were wooden, today there are different types material:

• (PVC, acrylic, etc.)

The most common are plastic (PVC) and metal types siding having best characteristics or the ones that most successfully combine quality with price.

In addition, there are many profile options:

• Timberblock.
• etc.

According to installation direction:

• Horizontal.
• siding.

Some types allow installation in both directions at the request of the owner.

Developers are constantly adding model range, therefore there cannot be an exhaustive list; the list always remains open.

Siding kit

In addition to panels capable of forming only planes, additional elements (extensions) are produced, which are used to design the joints of different panels at an angle or in the same plane, for finishing window or door openings, etc.

To standard types can be attributed:

• Simple and complex angle (external and internal).
• H-profile.
• J-bar.
• Starting bar.
• Finishing bar.
• Platband.
• Soffit.
• Near-window profile.

All additional elements fully correspond to the main panels in terms of material type, color or type of protective coating.

Attention! Sometimes trims of a different, contrasting color are used as decoration, which gives the cladding an elegant and original look.

Choosing lathing - which is better, wood or metal?

The sheathing is a system of planks arranged in a certain order perpendicular to the direction of the panels and serving as support for them. It is customary to use as a material for sheathing wooden blocks or metal guides for drywall.

Disputes about this have been heard since the very first days of using cladding. Wooden planks have low thermal conductivity, while metal planks conduct heat very well and require insulation.

At the same time, wooden parts there is a common disease - they are susceptible to warping, deformation during drying and rotting. The metal profile does not create such problems; it is protected from corrosion by a layer of galvanization.

Another problem with wooden blocks is curvature. Choosing a perfectly straight one from a pack of bars is a difficult task, since the wood is highly susceptible to bending or twisting with a screw. The metal profile is almost perfectly straight.

Thus, more a good option To create the sheathing, a metal profile is presented, but you should take into account the cavity it creates and fill it in parallel with installing the insulation.

Installation of the selected sheathing

Installation of the sheathing begins with the installation of the outermost strips (if you plan to install vertical siding, then the upper and lower ones). They are attached to the wall at the corners, the position is checked by plumb line. Then a cord (at least two) is stretched between the outer planks, which serves to check the position of the intermediate strips of the sheathing and ensure flatness.

The intermediate strips are installed in increments that allow the insulation boards to be tightly laid between them. To ensure flatness, pieces of wood, plywood, etc. should be placed under them in the right places.(for wooden sheathing) or adjust the height of the metal profile above the wall plane when using a direct (U-shaped) drywall hanger.

After installing the first layer of planks and carrying out intermediate operations, a counter-lattice is installed, which will directly serve as a support for the siding. It is installed perpendicular to the planks of the first layer (and, accordingly, to the siding panels), with a step that ensures optimal fastening of the sheathing (40-60 cm, in some cases - 30-40 cm).

The countergrid performs additional function provision ventilation gap between the sheathing and the wall pie, which ensures the removal of steam a.

PLEASE NOTE!

If you do not plan to install external insulation, then the load-bearing layer of sheathing is installed immediately (perpendicular to the siding panels).

Insulation and waterproofing

During installation of the sheathing, external insulation of the wall can be performed. A material with a vapor permeability higher than that of the wall material is selected as insulation.. This point is very important, otherwise water (condensation) will accumulate at the boundary of the two materials, which will sooner or later cause the destruction of the wall.

Therefore, the most preferable insulation would be slab mineral wool, which allows water vapor to easily pass through. To cut off the ingress of moisture from the outside, a waterproofing layer should be installed. This is done at the stage of completing the installation of the first layer of sheathing and insulation.

A layer of waterproof membrane is installed on top, a material that facilitates the removal of steam, but prevents moisture from entering from the outside. The counter grille is installed on top of the waterproofing layer.

Installation of the starting strip (J profiles)

The starter strip provides support for the bottom row of siding panels. To install it, you need to draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the house, which is 40 mm above the estimated bottom edge of the panels. Then the starting strip is applied with the upper edge to this line and fixed with self-tapping screws on the sheathing.

CAREFULLY!

The screws should not be tightened tightly; a small gap should be left for the free movement of the strip. The self-tapping screw is screwed in exactly in the middle of the elongated holes so that during temperature changes the part can move and compensate for the change in size without deforming the plane of the skin. This rule applies to all siding elements.

The next strip is not attached closely, but at a distance of 6 mm from the previous one to compensate for temperature stretches.

How is siding attached?

The siding panel is inserted with its lower edge into the lock of the starting strip, snaps into it, and the upper edge is fixed with self-tapping screws on the sheathing. The following panels are attached in a similar way, the sheathing “grows” from the bottom up (or sideways if the vertical type of siding is chosen).

Attention! In some cases, a top-down installation is used. It is believed that this option is less successful due to the possibility of rainwater penetrating into the lining space, but in practice no problems were found.

Installation of internal corner strips

The corners are installed before installing the main panels, immediately after attaching the starting strip. The internal corner profile is attached with the lower edge at the level of the starting strip; the screw density is recommended to be 25-30 cm.

If the starting bar prevents you from positioning the profile on in the right place, nail strips should be cut from the corner profile to a length equal to the width of the starting profile plus the temperature gap.

If it is necessary to extend the corner strip, cut off the nail strips from the top by 30 mm and overlap the top one over the bottom one for proper water drainage. The amount of overlap is no more than 25 mm to ensure that the temperature gap is maintained.

You can make a corner connection using a J-bar, which is cheaper than a corner connection. This can be done using one plank, when it fits tightly with its outer edge to a row of panels on one side, and the panels on the second side are installed into it.

The second option is to use two strips on each side of the corner, in which case there is a danger of water entering the gap between the strips, since absolute tightness of the connection cannot be achieved here, in addition, temperature gaps are necessary in any case.

Installation of external corner strips

External corner strips are installed in a similar way, adjusted for the reverse geometry of the element. The same overlap joining technique is required, temperature gaps are required, etc. As a replacement for a complex corner, you can use two J-bars located close to each other at the corners.

For external corners, a simpler design method is possible - using a simple corner that is installed on top of the panels. In this case, the siding is installed first without a corner, so that the joint of the planes is as neat as possible, after which a simple corner is screwed on top. Often this option turns out to be the most preferable because it is simpler and for unprepared people this option seems optimal.

How to extend siding strips

If it is necessary to end the panels, an H-profile or simple overlapping joint can be used. The size of the overlap is 25 cm; to implement it, you need to cut off the nail strip from one panel on top and part of the lock on the bottom to the length of the overlap plus a temperature gap of 12 mm. It is best to do overlapping joints in different places - in each row of panels, so as not to weaken the entire panel.

Installation of H-profile

The installation of the H-profile is carried out simultaneously with the installation of the corner strips (immediately after the starting strip). The same rules apply as for corner profiles - trimming nail strips for joints and mandatory temperature gaps. The use of an H-profile makes longitudinal joining of panels more aesthetically pleasing and allows you to immediately cut the required number of panels to length for a given area.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

It begins immediately after installing the starting strip and corner and H-profiles. Siding can be immediately cut to the required length, not forgetting the need to leave temperature gaps, which for panels are 12 mm.

The starting bar has a lock, the same as the panels. The first lower strip is inserted into it until it is completely connected and secured along the upper nail strip with self-tapping screws.

The usual rules for siding apply - the self-tapping screw is screwed in exactly in the middle of the oblong hole and loosely fixes the part, leaving room for free movement. The next panel is attached in a similar way. The process of creating a plane itself is simple and does not require any special knowledge other than what is indicated.

Every 3 rows, a horizontal check is made and measures are taken to eliminate distortions if they are detected.

Loose connections or other reasons may disrupt the correct position of the panels, causing slight distortions. If you do not carry out constant monitoring, then by the end of installation the changes may become noticeable and the entire work will be ruined. Therefore, periodic monitoring and correction of the accuracy of the location of the lamellas to the horizontal is necessary.

How to go around windows and doorways with siding

They are decorated in almost the same ways, the only difference is the presence of rain tides on window openings. The method of tying the opening depends on the depth of the block in the plane of the wall.

To design openings located in the same plane as the wall, platbands are used. They have grooves for the end placement of siding, so the installation of platbands is carried out before installing the main panels.

If the openings are up to 20 cm deep, then a J-bar is used. Its installation is carried out on top of the finished panels; the finishing strip must be attached to the window frame around the perimeter.

For large opening depths, sets of the same siding panels are used, cut taking into account the temperature gap along the length of the slope and assembled according to the usual principle. A universal strip is installed along the perimeter of the window block, and on external joint a complex angle is mounted on the planes. In this case, it is also necessary to install additional panels before installing the main panels.

To finish the slopes, it is necessary to first install the sheathing on them, which is usually done during the construction of the main one, since the openings need to be insulated along with the plane of the walls. Regardless of the angle of slope, the sheathing of the openings is installed perpendicular to the main one, and the angle is ensured by the position of the finishing or universal strips.

Laying the finishing strip of siding

The finishing strip forms the top (final) edge of the last panel and fixes its position. installation is carried out almost simultaneously with the top panel. The plank is fixed strictly horizontally at the required height, the nail strip on the last panel is cut off.

The panel, with its trimmed edge, on which the locking profile remains, is inserted into the slot of the finishing strip and snaps into it. The shape of the profiles is such that the required gap is maintained, and the lock reliably fixes the panel in the plane of the canvas.

PLEASE NOTE!

For correct installation the finishing strip and the last panel require an accurate calculation made in advance, or the possibility of some level discrepancy if a separate pediment cladding is planned.

Installing siding on gables

Either in the same way as the facade, or using a vertical arrangement of siding panels in contrast to the main fabric. Some fairly precise cutting to length and angle will be required.

A design feature is the need to provide a temperature gap in combination with cutting the panels at an angle, which may result in errors, so careful measurements will be required. It is recommended to start installation with back sides at home, so that before switching to front side got some experience.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to install siding:

Conclusion

Installing siding yourself is a simple and quite affordable procedure that you can do yourself. The main condition is loose fastening of parts and compliance with temperature gaps; all other subtleties are comprehended intuitively along the way. To successfully complete the work, you should stop rushing and act thoughtfully, then the result will become a source of pride for the owner of the house.