GROOTS CAN BE MADE EVERYWHERE

At groove connection the end of one part fits into a shallow groove cut across the grain of the other. This connection is an improvement on the simple butt connection. The groove shoulders provide decent strength. In fact, such a connection cannot be broken, for example, by pressing on a shelf. If it fits tightly, it can withstand oblique loads well, when the force is directed diagonally across the body. Installing back walls in cabinets or chests of drawers and bottoms in drawers further strengthens the entire structure. Finally, the groove makes assembly easier by defining the position of the parts and keeping them from slipping.

Using just two types of groove connections, you can make almost any body part. The main connection, where the groove engages the full thickness of the adjacent part, allows you to assemble bookcases, toy chests, hanging shelves or any other enclosures in which side walls extend beyond adjacent parts (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. Main groove connection.
Rice. 2. Modified groove/tenon connection.

If these "through" angles are unsuitable or unsightly, use a modified joint (Figure 2) called mortise/tenon.

Drawers are also boxes. They are easily made using a basic mortise joint and a mortise/tenon joint (Figure 3). Example ZA is the strongest of them; in examples ZV and ZS, you can weaken the front wall. If you want to hide the ends of the side walls drawer, shown at 30, cover them with a false front wall or use a quarter joint, as shown at 30, reinforced with nails or dowels.

Rice. 3. Grooves in drawers.

BASIC CONNECTION IN GROOVE

Cutting grooves on a tabletop circular saw with a set of groove discs is much faster than manually. But long or wide pieces are difficult to maneuver around the table. A pendulum saw solves this problem, but it has an inherent drawback - usually its console is not enough to cut across wide parts.

A router helps solve this problem. But this also has its drawbacks.

First, if you are selecting more than one pair of grooves, setting the ruler for each side can be time consuming. Therefore, use an insert with a width equal to the distance from the rib of the router base to the cutter. To install the ruler, slide the insert along the marked shoulder line on the work piece (Figure 4).

Rice. 4. Insert for router.

Second, the thickness of the workpiece is almost never matched to the cutter to ensure a tight-fitting joint. Solid wood parts can be planed or sanded, but plywood parts are difficult to trim. Cutting a groove to fit is more clear. But this requires two passes with a router - one for each shoulder.

Faced closely with the selection of grooves, you can make a simple device (photo A).

GROVING DEVICE

The device consists of two rulers (one for each groove shoulder) and two strips that rest on the edges of the workpiece. One ruler and one strip are T-shaped fastened at right angles. Gaps along the other strip and ruler allow you to install boards up to 300mm wide and select grooves up to 38mm wide. Two clamps in an adjustable bar rest against the workpiece and lock the fixture in place.

To operate, you need a set of guide bushings for the router. With bushings, the rulers should be slightly offset to the side relative to the width of the groove itself.

The device is made of poplar, but Karelian birch plywood or MDF is also suitable. The T-nuts and MB screws are recessed, so the router can slide along the rules without hindrance.

Having finished manufacturing, you need to make inserts for installing the rulers. Plane a piece of cutting board approximately 450 mm long, 150 mm wide and 20 mm thick to the same thickness along the entire length. It all depends on the size of the sleeve and the cutter. Leave the jig in place while you make and fit four inserts, each approximately 50mm long, about 25mm wide and equal to the thickness of the gaps. Ideally, the thickness of the inserts should be equal to half the difference in the diameters of the cutter and sleeve.

Precise adjustment of the inserts is accomplished by using them with rulers installed when routing on a short piece that has been sawed off previously. Loosen the adjustable ruler, place the scrap between the rulers and two inserts on each side.

Tighten the screws. Remove the inserts and trim and mill the groove. If the trim does not fit into the groove, adjust the thickness of the inserts.

OPERATING THE DEVICE

Marking the grooves is very simple. Determine the shoulder line for each groove by making a pencil mark on the face of the piece to be worked. You can put the two side walls together and mark all the grooves at once, or mark the second side wall after routing the first.

Once the jig is aligned and the cuts are marked, align the straight edge with the mark (photo C), lightly tighten the clamps and make a pass with the router, then move the jig to the next mark. A well-chosen groove should fit the tenon without gaps or backlash (photo D).

GROOVE/TENK CONNECTION

Like the main groove, the groove/tenon connection (Fig. 5) can be made in several ways: on a circular saw and by milling. Regardless of the method, the proportions of the connection are as follows: the tenon is about 1/4-1/3 of the thickness of the part on which it is cut, and approximately 1/4-1/3 of the thickness of the part with the groove. To guarantee tight and good connection It is necessary to cut the grooves a little deeper than the length of the tenons.

SAWING A GROOVE/TENK CONNECTION ON A CIRCULAR

Since this is a very simple connection, it is easier and faster to combine marking and installation. Check the settings on the scrap boards (Fig. 6 and 7).

It's easier to fit the tenon to the mortise, so make the mortise first. Set the depth of the cut by measuring or by eye, pressing the disc against the part in which the groove will be. Then install a ruler to cut out the inner shoulder of the groove (Fig. 6, step 2), make a notch in all parts with grooves, rearrange the ruler and cut out the second shoulders.

Narrow parts, such as the sides of bookcases, can be sawed down using dividing head, keeping the end of the workpiece in contact with the ruler while working. You can also attach a limiter to a ruler in front of the disk so that the end of the part rests against it.

The most accurate way to select a groove on a circular saw is to place the workpiece on the table and, pressing it against the ruler, cut out the shoulder. Then place the part on the end and cut out the thickness of the tenon. This method allows you to accurately control the thickness of the tenon, but it is inconvenient for long parts or those that are sawed across. It is better to make tenons on these parts using several horizontal cuts. After sawing the shoulder, press the piece against the ruler and use a dividing head to cut out the excess wood in several passes. Unlike the first method, here the thickness of the tenon depends on the thickness of the workpiece.

No matter how carefully the tenons are made, there is usually some variation in their size, especially when sawing into solid wood. Here we can advise you to cut the tenons a little thicker, and then, when fitting, trim them with a plane for the shoulders. The shoulder plane's blade runs across its entire narrow sole, so you can cut right into the corner of the tenon shoulder.

MILLING THE GROOVE/TENK JOINT

For large and wide parts of housings or long and narrow parts, milling grooves is relatively simple and safe. Select a cutter of the correct diameter, attach a ruler to the base of the router and make passes with it, moving the ruler along the end of the part
(Fig. 8). Many routers are sold with a ruler, but to improve the quality of work, it must be pressed to the base with a clamp or screws.

The most accurate way to mill a tenon is to clearly set its thickness between the ruler and the cutter (Fig. 9). To support the base of the router, use a clamp to press a piece of thick board flush with the end of the workpiece.

HOMEMADE DEVICE FOR SELECTING GROOTS

Although the device looks complicated, it is quite easy to make (Fig. 10). Cut the workpieces to size, and then carefully plane the planes and edges. Then select a groove in the fixed bar for the fixed ruler using a few cuts on a circular saw. Then, to ensure a tight fit and square edges, use a sharp chisel to trim its shoulders. The half-wood connection on the adjustable ruler is made so that its upper surface is in the same plane as the fixed ruler.

Mill out all the cracks in the planks and rulers using a ruler pressed to the base of the router (Fig. 8). First, releasing the cutter approximately 3 mm in each pass, mill narrow through slots in several passes. Next, mill out pockets for the screw heads and T-nuts.

Small clamps are used as clamps. The pressure pad is a T-shaped nut at the end of the screw. The locknut prevents the pad from coming loose when it presses against the workpiece. Select the grooves in the adjustable bar so that the clamps can hide behind its edge.
Rice. 10. Device for making grooves.

(clickable picture)

Beautiful, high-quality furniture always has a visually finished, seamless look. A professional designer must think through all the little details, right down to the shape of the legs, types of fastenings and finishing of the ends. Homemade cabinets, tables, cabinets and other joinery made from chipboard are no exception. To bring the manufactured items to perfection, you simply need such an interesting detail as an edge for the ends.

What is an edge for chipboard

The edge is special tape, made from various materials, which is glued or cut into the ends of parts made of laminated particleboard. Its main purpose is to protect the edges, decorate and give a spectacular look. finished product. Significantly facilitates and speeds up the production process, at the same time it is a cheaper analogue of such production stages How:

• Postforming– wrapping a sheet of laminated plastic or resin paper around the end. In this case, the edge of the product is given a rounded shape, then a polymer coating is applied. It is used for countertops, furniture parts for bathrooms and kitchens, moldings. Provides complete protection against the destructive effects of moisture on chipboard.
• Softforming– similar to the previous one, but applied to products complex shapes. Ensures the safety and tightness of furniture ends.

Types of edges

There are 4 types of end tape - melamine, PVC, metal and acrylic. They differ in their characteristics, the raw materials used, the decorative surface and the methods of attachment to the base.

Melamine edge

It is made from thick paper, which is impregnated with a thermosetting polymer resin - melamine. After drying, the semi-finished product is glued onto a papyrus backing. On some types, industrial adhesive is also applied to speed up the fastening process. It has a standard thickness from 0.2 to 0.4 mm, a smooth or embossed decorative surface, more than 140 shades and decors, including various types of wood.

Melamine tape is attached to chipboard edge in two ways. The first of them is using an iron (suitable for crosscuts with an adhesive base). The following will be useful as auxiliary tools:

• a construction knife, drill or electric machine with a felt attachment for removing scraps;
• rubber spatula or solvent 646 to remove excess glue;
• a tube of instant glue (Bison, Moment) for gluing lagging areas;
• a press, a wooden block with felt, a spatula or a small roller for rolling wallpaper;
• stops for fixing the part;
• fine-grained sandpaper (“zero”).

The part is fixed on U-shaped stops, a melamine edge is applied and smoothed with an iron heated to approximately 180°. Next, you should press the still hot edge using a press, a block of felt or a wallpaper roller.

The correct temperature must be selected experimentally, that is, set the iron regulator to the maximum level and test it small area tapes. If the edge material begins to “wrinkle” or folds, then the heating needs to be reduced.

Excess edging is carefully cut off with a knife or drill with a felt attachment at low speeds. Exposed drops of glue can be easily removed with a solvent. Finally, be sure to go over the edges with fine-grained sandpaper at a 45° angle to even out the edges. To get acquainted with the details of the process, watch the video:

The second method of fastening is using a heat gun (can be replaced with a hairdryer) and a glue stick. Apply the mixture evenly to the end of the part and the trim, carefully connect, roll or press with a press. Remove any exposed glue with a solvent, cut off the excess and sand it with sandpaper. To align the newly glued edge, you can heat it again and move it a little.

This method is considered more reliable, since the rough, uneven surface Chipboard is better saturated with glue, which improves the adhesion of the edging to the base.

If there are small chips or defects at the end of the chipboard, they can be removed using acrylic universal putty, and after drying, carefully sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. Glue a construction bandage on top to avoid cracking of the putty mixture, and you can attach the edge.

PVC edge

It is made from several types of thermoplastics, including ABC and PP. This type of end edges is highly resistant to water, household chemicals, mechanical and thermal influences. The standard thickness is 0.4–10 mm, the width varies between 1–10 cm.

The decorative surface comes in two types: smooth (glossy or semi-matte) or embossed (wood or shagreen leather). The choice of colors and designs is incredibly huge - about 5,000 variations, including neon patterns and fluorescent shades.

The difference between regular PVC and ABC is that the latter has increased rigidity, impact resistance and heat resistance. This allows the use of high-temperature adhesives for parts with complex shapes.

Several types of PVC edges are available:

1. T-shaped mortise edging (with tenon) , is fixed in the groove cut out with a milling cutter. It is very difficult to do such work on your own, since you need a perfectly even slot of the same depth. Milling machines can handle this task;
2. Overlay edging without girth – glued to the edge of the chipboard using a hair dryer and glue. However, you should be careful, otherwise you may get burned;
3. Overlay edging with girthU-shaped – is attached in the same way as the previous one. Thanks to its shape, it wraps around the edge of the product and perfectly masks minor defects (irregularities, chips);
4. Overlay edging with U-shaped girth – has rigid clamps, so does not require gluing. It is enough to preheat it with a hairdryer, and when the plastic edge softens, bend the “antennae” a little and attach it tightly to the end of the part. Can be adjusted with a rubber mallet.

Metal or aluminum edge

It is an aluminum finishing profile with a rich set of characteristics. Reliably protects the ends of chipboards from impacts, moisture, mechanical stress, and temperature changes. Thickness – 1-2 mm, width from 1.6 to 10 cm; some manufacturers have artificial thickening for built-in furniture.

The decorative surface is usually subjected to 3 types of treatment:

1. Shot peening or clear anodizing. The result is a solid silver shade with a mirrored or carved surface;
2. Standard anodizing, giving a wide choice of shades from semi-matte aged gold to black satin with gloss. This transformation makes it possible to grout small scratches and extend the service life of the material by 1.5 times;
3. PVC film coating, imitating the structure and many shades of natural wood.

Like plastic edging, aluminum edging is available in several variations:

• Mortise edging T-shaped with U-orF -girth - fits into the groove and is securely held due to its special design. Protects the ends and back of a chipboard product and hides minor defects. Suitable for kitchen and office furniture;
• Overlay edging without girth – inexpensive, sticks special composition, however, many manufacturers are already removing it from their product range, since it does not prevent chipping on the product;
• Overlay edging with C- or H-shaped girth – fastened with small self-tapping screws, the kit includes corners, connectors, plugs and slot strips.

The advantage of this edge is that it goes well with glass, plastic and wood products.

Acrylic or 3d edge

Colorful endband tape with more than 200 types of rich and pastel shades. It is produced using a special technology: a decorative finish is applied to the substrate, and the top is covered with a layer of transparent acrylic polymer, thereby creating a spectacular three-dimensional pattern.

The advantage of acrylic is that it is quite hard and durable, does not fade, and if necessary, it can be easily polished with ordinary GOI paste. Thickness – 2 mm, standard width – up to 10 cm. Can be glued even at home.

The decors correspond to such interior styles as techno, avant-garde, modern, minimalism. Not suitable for kitchen facades and countertops, as it can withstand temperatures up to +90°.

Available in the form of an overhead tape without a girth, less often with a U-shaped girth. It does not require additional heating; it is enough to use special glue (Homa Colloid, Acrifix or plexiglass glue) and a press.

Finally, we note that the main enemies of particle board are moisture, mold, and fungi. In order for the furniture to last for more than one year, you must definitely choose furniture with ends treated with edge tape, or carry out the protection yourself. The investment of money and time will be repaid by the long and good service of the joinery products.

The most common method of finishing the ends of cabinet furniture parts made of laminated chipboard is gluing or another type of edge with subsequent processing. Along with this, there is another common method of finishing the ends - cutting or gluing PVC edging. The edging is used, as a rule, in places with a high probability of damage to furniture during its operation, high humidity, and also for design reasons.

Types of PVC edging.

Unlike edging, in which the excess is cut off during the edging process, edging is produced immediately for a specific slab thickness (the most common are 16 and 32 mm), cutting PVC edging to length is not provided for by the technology. There is also no provision for joining the PVC edging at the corners. To cover two adjacent ends with edging, it is necessary to ensure a smooth transition - round the corner. The minimum possible radius of rounding is selected experimentally for each edge individually, since this greatly depends on the rigidity of the edge, the size of the sides, and the characteristics of the top (decorative) coating.

The edges of the edging can be either with sides (with girths, overlapping the plane of the material) or without them. Traditionally, edging with sides is used more widely for several reasons: it allows you to hide small chips of the laminate near the end of the part, protects the end from direct moisture, and is less demanding on accuracy technological process and stability of material thickness.

Furniture edging can be divided into two groups: mortise-type edging with a tenon (T-edging), overhead edging without a tenon (C-edging). The mortise edging is available both with and without sides. There is no overlay edging without edges. The technologies for finishing the end of a part with one and the other type of edging differ radically, but (subject to the technology), in terms of operational reliability and consumer qualities, C- and T-edgings are practically no different.

Examples of mortise edge profiles: without edges for 32 mm chipboard (photo on the left), with edges for 16 mm chipboard (photo on the right).

Mortise edge.

Mortise edging is the most common type of PVC edging. Since the T-edge has a tenon, for this purpose a groove (groove) of a certain width and depth must be made in the end of the chipboard, strictly in the center of the end (with the central location of the edge tenon). The main tool required for installing a mortise edge is hand router with an edge cutter, or its stationary version - a milling machine. If to the router special requirements is not presented, a low-power device of 1 kW is sufficient, then the cutter must be selected according to a number of parameters. Firstly, the cutter must leave behind a groove of a certain width, namely 0.5-0.7 mm less than the thickness of the edge tenon. Since different edging manufacturers have different tenon thicknesses, ideally, to insert an edging into 16 mm chipboard, you need to have two cutters with tooth heights of 2.5 and 3.0 mm, and to insert a 32 mm edging, a separate cutter, or even two. However, in practice, for reasons of saving money, it is enough to have only one cutter with a tooth height of 2.6 to 2.8 mm. In the absence of runout of the cutter and shaft ( collet chuck) router, this tooth height can be considered universal, suitable for inserting the vast majority of 16 mm T-edges. To make a groove of a significantly larger width, milling is performed in several passes, with a change in the overhang of the cutter. If runout of the equipment and/or tool is detected, it is necessary to select a cutter with a lower tooth height, since runout can lead to a significant increase in the width of the groove. Secondly, the cutter must leave a groove of a certain depth. The depth of the groove directly depends on the length of the edge tenon, which can vary from 6 to almost 10 mm. Therefore, to be able to use an edging from any manufacturer (with any tenon length), you need a cutter that provides a groove depth of 10 mm or more. It is irrational to choose a cutter with an unreasonably high milling depth, since this reduces the resource of the cutter and leads to an increase in the load on the milling cutter. The sequence of operations when finishing the end of a chipboard with a mortise PVC edging is shown below.

An example of measuring the thickness of an edging tenon for 32 mm chipboard.
The Italian edging has a thicker tenon and O greater rigidity (photo on the left) than Chinese (photo on the right).

An example of measuring the thickness of an edging tenon for 16 mm chipboard.
The Italian edging has a thicker spike, b O greater rigidity and height of the sides (photo on the left) than the Chinese (photo on the right).

Examples of inner edge width measurements
for chipboard 16 mm (photo on the left) and 32 mm (photo on the right).
Dimensions are approximate, depending on the edging manufacturer.

Edge cutter for mortise edging.
The groove depth W depends on the bearing diameter d1, cutter diameter D
and is found by the formula W=(D-d1)/2.

Step 1. Aligns the cutter to the center of the end with an accuracy of no worse than +/-0.5 mm.

Step 2. We grind (grind down) the edges of the laminated chipboard so that when stuffing the edging with the edges it does not chip off the laminate.

Step 3. Milling the groove.

The groove for the edging is ready.

Step 4.

Step 4. Trimming edge ends (photo left), sanding flush (photo right).

Ready.
The adjacent end can be covered with an edge, capturing the edging(photo on the right).

Using garden pruners.

It is convenient to cut the PVC edging with garden pruning shears, which have one persistent (not sharp) cutter, and the second is a working, sharpened one. The thrust cutter is thick enough and rounded so as not to injure decorative surface edging, and secondly, it is good to repeat its semicircular shape. The working cutter has a one-sided sharpening, that is, one side remains flat, this allows you to press the cutter tightly against the end of the chipboard and trim the edge flush in one motion, without subsequent sanding with sandpaper.

Small garden secateurs for trimming edging 16 mm. To work with a wide 32mm edge, it is better to choose a larger model.

We press the stop cutter tightly against the semicircular surface of the edge, press the working blade with our finger against the end of the chipboard, and perform the trimming.

High-quality cutting in one motion. With some skill and a sharply sharpened blade, pruning shears can cut very narrow strips of edge.

Overlay edging.

Installation of the overlay edging does not require the use of power tools, the work is not dusty and can be done even at home, all you need is a knife and glue. Need to prepare inner surface edging, namely to apply deep multidirectional scratches in order to improve the adhesion of the glue. Any sharp object is suitable for this operation: a knife, scissors, a hacksaw blade, etc. After the surface is scratched, it is necessary to apply glue to the inner surface of the edge, for example, the well-proven “liquid nails”. If there is a need for maximum protection against water penetration under the edging, then instead of glue you should use silicone sealant by applying it in excess.After applying the glue, the edging is sequentially put on the end of the part, leaving small allowances at the ends. Exposed adhesive must be removed immediately. If necessary, paper (painting) tape will help to temporarily fix the edge (for example, near curved areas). After the glue has dried (for “liquid nails” - a day), cut off the edging allowances flush. The need to wait for the glue to dry is the main disadvantage of using an overlay edge compared to a mortise edge.

Step 1. We scratch the underside of the edge.

Step 2. Apply liquid nails glue.

Step 3. We put the edging on the end of the chipboard, remove the squeezed out excess glue.

Ready. The end of the laminated chipboard is finished with an applied PVC edging.
The ends are trimmed after the glue has dried.

Some subtleties of working with edging PVC.

1. Priority in choosing should be given to the edging whose base color matches as closely as possible the color of the decor - the outer covering. This will help make possible minor damage (scratches) to the edge unnoticeable.
2. The size of the edging sides varies. Preference should be given to edging with a higher side height, this will allow you to cover very large chips in the laminate.
3. The stiffer the edge, the stronger it is and the better it can withstand impacts. As a rule, more expensive edges have greater rigidity.
4. The rigidity of the edge depends on the room temperature. It is recommended to stuff the piping at room temperature. Work at low temperatures requires special attention behind the edging edge, it becomes rigid and can lift (chip off) the edge of the laminate.
5. Glue like “Liquid Nails” and some others are critical to storage and curing temperatures. The adhesive manufacturer's recommendations must be strictly followed.

Piping PVC ends cabinet furniture acquire excellent performance, strength and decorative characteristics. An edging with sides, mounted using sealing compounds, is a reliable and, probably, the cheapest decorative means of protecting the ends of parts from the penetration of water, which helps to avoid swelling of the chipboard.

To finish the end of laminated chipboard, MDF or plywood, use a special melamine tape, which is sold in furniture fittings stores. Melamine edge is a paper-based tape that is used to seal the end furniture board, such as chipboard and MDF, for example.

There are other materials for finishing edges: PVC edge, PVC profile, natural veneer edge, etc. But melamine edging tape is still the most popular due to its ease of use.

Today we will look at how to edge furniture boards using this tape.

We recently talked about how and what you can do as usual circular saw. After cutting for further use, the cut must be trimmed with edging tape, which you can easily select according to size, color and texture in any specialized store.

This is what a neat cut of plywood looks like, which we are going to use for shelves in kitchen cabinets. But it hasn't been edged yet, so you can see all the layers of plywood when it's cut.

And this is what the same end looks like, but after edging:

Like? And it's quite easy to do. And quickly. And inexpensive.

We take the edge by the edge, leaving a small margin.

On the inside edge tape an adhesive composition is applied, which is activated when heated. A simple iron is ideal for this.

Lightly iron the end with an iron, retreat 2.5 cm and cut off from the roll.

Now thoroughly iron the edge with an iron. If the melamine edge has slipped, there is nothing to worry about. While it's hot, it peels off easily. So just peel it off, straighten it and iron it again.

When the edge lies flat as it should, take a smooth wooden block and, starting from the middle, pressing it firmly against the edge, move it first in one direction to the end, then in the other. But this must be done while the edge has not yet cooled down.

To extend the service life of furniture, chipboard edges are applied - applying PVC edges to the ends of the parts. Our company offers you edging, additives and other services for processing particle boards at affordable prices.

Why is it necessary to process the edges of furniture parts made of chipboard and laminated chipboard?

Edging chipboard and laminated chipboard significantly increases the service life of furniture;

The PVC edge protects the wood-based particle material from the harmful effects of moisture;

Chipboard, protected by an edge, is not subject to chipping and other mechanical damage;

The edging of laminated chipboard and chipboard plays an important decorative role– decorating furniture with PVC edges significantly improves its aesthetic properties.

Contact us if you are interested in processing flagstone materials - edging, additives, etc. We will carry out this work in as soon as possible, guaranteeing high quality parts, their durability and beautiful appearance.

Our production provides services for applying PVC edges with a thickness of 0.4-3 mm. This range allows you to create perfect shapes and surfaces of furniture parts.

We offer high-quality edging of laminated chipboards - the price is indicated in the table. As you can see, we work not only with our materials, but also with yours. You can purchase PVC edges at any place convenient for you, and from us you only pay for the edging service.

Cutting and edging of laminated chipboards is carried out using high-quality equipment. The application of straight PVC edges is carried out on a CHEISA machine - premium equipment. The curved edge is applied using an Italian VITAR machine.

PVC edge is a durable flexible tape made by extrusion from polyvinyl chloride granules and modifiers, the share of the latter in high-quality edge material being no more than 5%.

Advantages of PVC edges:

1. Strength . PVC edge material is resistant to mechanical damage. The edge can also protect the chipboard or laminated chipboard from such damage.
2. Moisture resistance . The edge perfectly protects furniture parts from moisture penetration, which makes it indispensable in the production of furniture for bathrooms and kitchens.
3. Chemical resistance . PVC edges can be washed and cleaned with any chemicals. It is very convenient to use furniture parts framed with such an edge in laboratories and hospitals, catering facilities, etc.
4. Heat resistance . PVC edge is not afraid high temperatures or sudden changes.
5. Reliability . The edge is tightly glued to the end of the particle board, forming an almost invisible seam.
6. Durability . Resistance to action sun rays allows the edge material to maintain its original appearance - color, shade, brightness - for many years.
7. Flexibility . The edge is elastic, which allows it to be used for processing furniture of complex shapes.
8. High aesthetic performance . The edge is produced different textures and colors, can imitate the surface of wood or stone. PVC edges can be used in furniture processing for any interior style.

	Service name	Price (rub./m.p.)
		Using customer materials	Using our materials
	PVC edge 0.4 mm (8-18 mm)
	PVC edge 0.4 mm (22-25 mm)
	PVC edge Egger 0.4 mm (8-18 mm)
	PVC edge Egger 0.4 mm (22-25 mm)
	PVC edge 2.0 mm (8-18 mm)
	PVC edge 2.0 mm (22 -25 mm)
	PVC edge Egger 2.0 mm (8-18 mm)
	PVC edge Egger 2.0 mm (22-25 mm)
	PVC edge 2.0mm 3D acrylic
	PVC edge 2.0 mm (chamber 40-60 mm)

Sawing and edging of laminated chipboards is carried out by our qualified craftsmen in the shortest possible time. By choosing our company, you will undoubtedly be satisfied with the quality of work and pricing policy. Especially for you, we offer packaging and delivery services for finished products.

To start cooperation, fill out the order form on the website or visit our office.

Contact us and get high-quality, reliable and beautiful furniture!

Sheet material based on chipboard and MDF, from which cabinet furniture is made, is covered only on two sides. The ends, after cutting the parts to size, remain unprocessed. The edge on chipboard is used not only to give the furniture a more aesthetic appearance. But also to protect chipboard and MDF from the influence of the external environment, as a result of swelling or drying out. In the case of chipboard, the process of edging (lining, processing, gluing the ends) helps to make the furniture safer - to create a reliable barrier to the emission of formaldehyde resins and other harmful fumes.

Melamine edge on chipboard: cheap and cheerful

The easiest way, which does not require special skills or specialized tools, is gluing a melamine edge from chipboard made on a paper base. There is no trick to the question of how to glue an edge on chipboard with an iron: the edge material itself already has a layer of glue applied evenly on the reverse side. All that is required is:

• Press the melamine edge evenly to the end of the chipboard.
• Use a heated iron until the glue is completely melted and, accordingly, the edge material is glued.
• Cut off excess melamine and glue with a sharp, wide, short knife (shaped like a shoe knife) or an ordinary stationery knife.
• Gently sand the edges with fine sandpaper.

Melamine glued chipboard edge at home. The process itself does not take much time and is not too “junk”, unlike sawing and sanding. The only waste will be the cut residues, which can easily be swept away with a broom when finished.

Plastic edge on chipboard: PVC and ABS

The main disadvantage of conventional melamine edging is its fragility. It performs well in use on the inner ends of furniture that are not subject to constant wear. On the visible ends (countertops, facades, open shelves) it wears out, chips, and takes on an unpresentable appearance. Another thing is the plastic edge for chipboard.

The most common two types: PVC edging (PVC) and ABS (ABS). Outwardly, they are practically indistinguishable, they are analogues, the differences are only in properties and composition. Both types are available different widths and thickness 0.4 mm, 1 mm and 2 mm, with and without adhesive base. An edge of 0.4 mm thickness or “one” is used on the internal boxes of furniture, and “two” on the tabletops and facades.

PVC furniture edging is made on the basis of polyvinyl chloride, and ABS is made on the basis of acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. ABS edge is considered environmentally friendly because it does not contain chlorine or heavy metals and does not emit their harmful compounds when burned. Also, ABS as a material does not electrify, does not attract small debris and dust, exhibits less heat shrinkage when gluing and looks neater, smoother (without pressing) at the ends (if we are talking about a thickness of 0.4-1 mm). But it also costs more than PVC.

If you are interested in the process of gluing an edge to a chipboard, then it is much more complicated and requires additional skills and specialized equipment. In conditions furniture production plastic is edged on special edgebanding machines using high-temperature hot melt adhesives. There are manual edgebanding machines for small-scale production.

At home PVC conditions It is possible to glue the edge onto chipboard, but it will take more time. Step by step:

• It is important to very carefully prepare the end of the furniture piece for the sticker, especially if a thick edge, 1-2mm thick, is used. When a PVC or ABS edge adheres to the base, the glue can “pull out” the chips and the end will take on an untidy, lumpy appearance.
• If the PVC edge has an adhesive base, then it is heated construction hairdryer until the glue melts. If not, coat the end of the part with Moment glue and wait for it to dry a little for better adhesion.
• Then press the PVC (ABS) edging to the end (manually or roll it several times) and wait for the adhesive base to harden.
• Next, you need to carefully cut off the excess edges of the edging and sand it, giving it a uniformly rounded shape along the entire length of the part. Usually a milling cutter is used for these purposes. With some skill, you can get by with hand tools - a knife, a file and sanding paper.

Decorative plastic edges: super glossy, metallic and 3D effect

Both PVC and ABS edgings come in attractive glossy and metallic finishes to not only make furniture more practical and durable, but also significantly improve its aesthetics.

If you decide to choose exactly this type of edging for countertops and furniture facades with your own hands, then it is better to entrust the solution to the question of how to glue PVC edges to chipboard to a workshop that has the appropriate equipment. When gluing a glossy or metallic edge, there is too great a risk of accidentally scratching the surface of the end and thereby ruining the entire effect. On the other hand, the decorative border has protective layer in the form of a film, which can only be removed after completing the entire process of sticking, rolling and processing.

The acrylic 3D edge (PMMA), made on the basis of polymethyl methacrylate, deserves special attention. The decorative base is covered with a thick layer of transparent polymer, which protects the base from damage and abrasion. It also gives the edging an attractive 3D effect of a certain solidity, in which the edging does not look like a simple frame for the table top.

Overlay and mortise edges

This type of edging is more decorative. It does not protect furniture parts from swelling and drying out, but only gives an attractive three-dimensional shape to the ends. It is used only for the design of visible ends - facades, cornices, table tops, open shelves etc.

As is clear from the name, the applied (U-shaped) and mortise edge does not require a sticker (in rare cases, only additional fixation, support), it is attached using protruding parts, wrapping around the end of the part or cutting into a specially prepared recess in the center of the end. They make flexible overlay and mortise edges from PVC and use them to decorate tabletops in office and student furniture.

The aluminum end, which frames the facades and countertops of kitchens, premium-segment office furniture, reception desks, etc., deserves special attention. Since the aluminum end is not able to go around corners, installation requires additional accessories– internal and external corners. Sometimes craftsmen do without them, sawing and joining the end at the desired angle.

It's no secret that the ends of chipboard can be processed different materials such as pvc edge, melamine edge, and of course pvc edging.

Let's talk about trimming chipboard with PVC edging. The methods depend directly on the type of facing material - a mortise edging with or without a girth, or an applied edging.

PVC mortise edging with girth:

PVC mortise edging without girth:

PVC overlay edging:

You can read more about the types of flexible profile in this.

First of all, an important fact is the temperature in the room in which the work will take place, as well as at what temperature the profile was stored. Strong temperature changes will affect the rigidity of the profile and the processing of the part.

PVC edging is produced directly to a certain thickness of the chipboard. At the corners of the part, the edging is not cut; to cover adjacent ends, the corner is smoothly rounded.

Perhaps the most often used is a mortise profile. T-edge has a tenon (leg), for which a groove is made at the end of the chipboard, matching it in width and depth. This groove is made using a milling machine or a hand router. It is optimal if the cutter leaves a groove 0.5 mm wide and a tooth height of up to 2.8 mm.

Before making a groove for the edging with a milling cutter, it is necessary to sand the edges of the chipboard board so that when stuffing the edging sides do not form chips on the laminate. The edging is hammered in with a rubber mallet, the excess ends of the edging that go behind the chipboard are cut off with a knife or pruning shears.

It can make the process of edge trimming seem quite complicated. However, after watching the video below, you will be convinced of the opposite.

Furniture makers are constantly improving their production. Like this unusual way trimming was invented by furniture manufacturers:

In this case, a conventional pneumatic hammer with an attachment was used, which was fixedly fixed on the workbench.

As you may have noticed, when using such a tool, the cutting speed is much higher, which means higher productivity.

When using overhead (C-shaped) edging You don't need any power tools.

All you need is a knife and glue on hand.

To increase the adhesion of the glue, scratches are sometimes applied to the inner surface of the profile using a knife.

However, on inside profile that our company offers already has the necessary “factory” transverse notches, which significantly improve adhesion.

After this, glue is applied to the inner surface of the edging, often using liquid nails. Slinkon sealant is perfect if you want to protect the chipboard as much as possible from moisture (for example, if you are making furniture for bathrooms). Then the edging is sequentially put on the end of the chipboard. The exposed glue is removed.

When processing curved areas where the edging forms a bend, the already glued profile is fixed with tape. Unlike the mortise edging, which you quickly and easily put on the part, when processing with an overlay profile it will take some time for the glue to dry.

Our company is pleased to produce and supply flexible profiles in various colors.

To order or select the profile of the decor you need, contact us in any way convenient for you.

1. Main material: chipboard

Surprisingly, wood in pure form is the lot of expensive “elite” furniture. Wood is practically no longer found in cabinet furniture.

The main material from which cabinet furniture is made is laminated chipboard (LDSP). Typically these are 16 mm thick slabs. Sheets are also available for sale Chipboard thickness 10 mm and 22 mm. 10 mm laminated chipboards are used as filling for blind doors of sliding wardrobes, and 22 mm are used for shelves in bookcases, where greater resistance to loads is required, and a regular 16 mm laminated chipboard can seriously sag under the weight of books.

Also sometimes 22 mm parts are used as design elements furniture products, introducing originality into the design (for example, on top of a regular 16 mm cabinet lid you can put a protruding cover with a thickness of 22 mm more dark color). Such delights are economically feasible only in mass production, since you always have to buy a whole sheet of laminated chipboard for cutting. Typically, all parts of cabinet furniture (except for doors and facades) are made from 16 mm laminated chipboard.

Laminated chipboard is sawn on special machines along guides. Of course, at home you can saw off something with a jigsaw - but in this case the edges of the seam will be “torn”, and the seam itself will probably wiggle from side to side. It is almost impossible to achieve a straight saw with a jigsaw.

2. Edges

The cut of laminated chipboard is the most ugliest and vulnerable place - moisture easily penetrates through it and the material swells and deforms. Therefore, it is recommended to cover all ends of laminated chipboard with special edges. Several types of edges are known:

. ABS edge- an analogue of PVC edges made of another, more environmentally friendly plastic. In addition to environmental friendliness during disposal, the remaining differences are rather invented by marketers. It's not even sold in our city.

. Wooden and veneered facades- will delight lovers of natural products. True, in the modern plastic world such facades are quite expensive. Yes, and evil tongues claim that there are so many varnishes and impregnations in this wood that there is only one name for the wood. By at least, manufacturing companies strongly recommend regularly caring for such facades with special chemicals.

. Enamel facades- painted facades. Their main drawback: the coating is very easily scratched, deformed, and is not resistant to chemicals. Previously, they were used only for their rich, vibrant colors. With the advent of acrylic plastics on the market, the demand for painted facades has decreased significantly.

. Aluminum and glass facades- made in high-tech style. They are beautiful and modern, but difficult to manufacture and require non-standard fasteners, often installed simultaneously with the production of the facade.

4. Back walls and bottom of drawers.

Typically, the back walls of furniture, as well as the bottoms of drawers, are made of LDVP. At the same time, its front laminated side looks inside the drawer or cabinet. The color of HDF is selected to match the color of the HDF used. The sheet thickness is usually 3-5 mm.

At one time it was fashionable to place such a wall on brackets using furniture stapler. This is wrong - the staples last for a limited time, and no matter how strong the structure may seem to you immediately after assembly, after a few years it may well break apart under pressure or deformation. It is especially incorrect to place the bottom of drawers on staples, which is constantly subject to pull-out loads. So what about furniture stapler forget - it is only applicable in upholstered furniture.

Sometimes fiberboard is inserted in the groove- but this technology requires milling this groove, and at the same time maintaining all dimensions of the product exactly down to the millimeter.

Sometimes the back walls and bottoms of drawers are made of chipboard. This is practiced to create " stiffening ribs"in tall cabinets, and in those drawers where there will be a very heavy load (20 kg and above). The rear wall of the cabinet can be equipped with one or more stiffeners made of laminated chipboard, and the rest of the space can be filled with LDVP.

5. Countertops

Tabletop- a horizontal work surface on which people constantly work (cook, eat, write).

Most office desks and cheap options dining rooms are limited to a tabletop of the same material as the table itself. It can be laminated chipboard 16 mm or better 22 mm, chrome plating must be 2 mm PVC edge.

Special countertops are used for kitchens. Usually they are a sheet of chipboard 28-38 mm thick, covered with plastic using postforming technology. This plastic is quite durable. If the cut of the tabletop is gray, it’s ordinary chipboard, if it’s blue-green, then moisture resistant. Correct kitchen countertops equipped with a strip of silicone - the so-called " drip tray", which does not allow spilled liquids to flow down and onto the kitchen furniture.

The weak point of such countertops is the edges of the cuts. They are usually edged with melamine to match the color of the tabletop when cutting it. But melamine is afraid of moisture, and often the edges become unusable after just a year of use. Therefore, for the ends of the tabletop it is recommended to use a special aluminum profile, having previously thoroughly coated the cut surface with silicone sealant. There is also a profile for joining tabletops at right angles - without sawing them and fitting them to each other - this profile is very convenient to use in corner kitchens.

It is not customary to make holes in the tabletop (they spoil the smooth surface of the table and then dirt gets clogged in them), so such a tabletop is usually screwed on from the inside screws to horizontal struts. In this case, the screws should not be too long so as not to pierce the lid through.

Countertops made from natural or artificial stone . Products from natural stone very heavy and require additional care due to the porosity of the material. Artificial stone is free of these disadvantages. In addition, artificial stone countertops can be given almost any size and profile. The only drawback of such countertops today is their price.

6. Location of parts

We have come to those sections that will form your final understanding of how to make cabinet furniture. So, first let's talk about the relative position of the parts.

Detail- this is any element of cabinet furniture: bottom, lid, sidewall, back wall, facade, shelf. So, every detail can be nested, or maybe overhead.

Let's consider this thesis using the example of two kitchen cabinets. One will stand on the floor (on legs), and the other will hang on the wall.

Base cabinet:

As can be seen from the figure, it is best when the operating voltage (and for a floor-standing cabinet it is directed from the lid downwards) naturally transmitted through wooden parts to the place of contact of the product with the support - on the legs of the cabinet (see the “correct” diagram).

In the second, “wrong” option, the voltage is transmitted to confirmation(this is a special furniture screw, we’ll talk about them a little later) - and the force will constantly try to break it out of the wood.

Second example: wall cabinet.

Here everything is the other way around: the force is applied to the bottom shelf and the things on it, and the fastening point of the cabinet is higher than the point of application of the force. Naturally (at the junction wood boards) we will not transfer the force upward in any way. Therefore, voltage will necessarily be transmitted through the fittings.

If we make the same construction here as in base cabinet(see diagram "wrong") - all four confirms will experience constant effort to tear out made of wood. Therefore, we choose the worst of two evils: it is better to let the confirmees experience the effort for a break(see diagram "correctly").

At first glance, this seems difficult, but trust my experience: after the third designed and assembled product, you will begin to intuitively, without thinking, determine where this or that part should be located.

7. Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware, which are used to connect furniture parts. Most often, such a connection is made at a right angle of 90°. all modern types of furniture fasteners are very well described, with detailed description their advantages and disadvantages. Let's briefly go through those with which we will work.

. Euroscrew (confirmed)- special furniture screw. The most common fastening of cabinet furniture. Confirmat is especially well suited for beginners - since it does not require precise addition of parts - you can drill a hole for it “on site”, during the process of assembling the product.

Have you noticed that self-tapping screws are almost never used to connect parts? That's right, in the furniture business they are replaced by confirmats. Due to their ideal shape for 16mm laminated chipboards, they have a significant large area threads and hold much stronger than self-tapping screws.

To drill holes for confirmations it is required special drill- finding something like this in our provincial town was not easy. In principle, if you don’t have such a drill, it’s not a big deal: you can get by with three drills different diameters: under the thread, neck and cap of the confirmat.

Confirmats come in several sizes. Typically 7x50 is used. When drilling for confirmation special attention You should pay attention to the perpendicularity of the drilling - so that the drill does not “run away” and pierce the wall of the part being drilled.

Confirmations are being twisted screwdriver with hexagonal bit or manually with a special hex wrench. Confirmations made under Phillips screwdriver- these are not correct confirmations! You will never be able to tighten these screws all the way.

The main aesthetic drawback of confirmations is that the caps, although remaining flush, are still noticeable. To hide them they use plastic plugs, inserted into the caps. The color of the plugs is matched to the color of the chipboard.

. Eccentric couplers- the most correct and modern look furniture fasteners. Leaves no traces front side products, only from the inside. Main disadvantage- requires very precise drilling, including aligning holes on both sides and limiting the drilling depth (so as not to drill through).

To drill additives for eccentrics, a special drill is usually used. Forstner drill. It is possible to do it manually - but it is very difficult; it is better to have a drilling machine.

If you are assembling furniture, the ends of which will not be on public display, but will be hidden (for example, kitchen cabinet or a wardrobe in a niche) - then there is no point in bothering with eccentrics. Use confirmations.

8. Furniture fittings

The hinges can also be adjusted in height and planting depth. This allows you to more accurately align your cabinet door. There are also inset hinges - when when the door is closed, the facade is recessed inside the cabinet (rarely used). There is a range of glass door hinges that can hold the glass firmly in place without drilling.

Buy only quality products famous manufacturers(for inexpensive ones, we can recommend Chinese Boyard) - so as not to have problems with them in the future. Among the world's serious manufacturers - Austrian Bloom, but it is expensive and you still have to try to find it.

9. Drawers and their guides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes. The simplest one is to make the perimeter of the box (sides, front and back walls) from chipboard. This method is described in detail and with illustrations. The only thing I disagree with the author is that instead of nails to secure the bottom, I would use self-tapping screws.

If required beautiful facade, then it is screwed with self-tapping screws to one of the sides of the drawer into the lining, as shown in the diagram in section 5 (the role of the countertop in this case will be played by the front of the drawer).

But assembling the box is half the battle. The main thing is to make it open and close. That is, put it on the guides.

Drawer guides There are two types: roller and ball.

. Roller guides - usually white, attached to the bottom of the drawer. A box on such guides rides on two rubberized rollers, rumbles due to its unstable position, and at the point of maximum exit tends to fall out of the guides from any sharp push. Such guides are bad because a heavily loaded box will try to tip over from any position when it is extended more than halfway. The only advantage of such guides is the price: approx. 30 rub for a couple.

. Ball guides - or as they are usually called “full extension guides”. These guides are a telescopic structure that can increase its length exactly twice. Inside they contain several dozen balls (as in bearings), which ensures smooth movement of the box. The guides are rigidly fixed with self-tapping screws to both the cabinet and the drawer, which eliminates the possibility of tipping over and prevents the drawer from “derailing” regardless of the load and speed of jerking.

The process of installing a drawer on full extension ball slides is well described. The price of such guides is approx. 100 rub per set. It’s very disappointing to see when in a kitchen with a total cost of more than 40 rubles, the manufacturer squeezes and installs roller guides, saving 70 rubles. You know, you want to take it and strangle it for such a disgusting attitude towards the buyer. So if you order a kitchen, immediately specify what type of drawer guides will be.

. Metaboxes- a solution first proposed by an Austrian company Bloom. The idea is to save the craftsman from the need to attach guides to the drawer, and sell ready-made side walls, with built-in guides, holes for the front and grooves for the back wall. Having bought a metabox, all you have to do is hang the facade on it, put in the back wall and bottom (by the way, many metaboxes are designed for a bottom made of chipboard and not fiberboard).

The guides in the metaboxes are roller. Accordingly, the metabox is not a full extension product. Cost of Blum metabox: from 300 to 500 rub. Now many companies, including Chinese ones, produce products with the name “metabox”, which has already become a household name. Here is a good article on calculating and assembling a metabox.

. Tandemboxes- a more technological solution from the same company. If the metabox rides on roller guides, then the tandembox rides on full extension ball guides. The number of balls in them is several hundred. Tandembox is usually equipped with automatic door closer and a shock damper (BluMotion system) - which ensures surprisingly pleasant and soft closing of the drawer (always full closing) with one push.

For tall drawers, tandem boxes can be equipped with one or two additional stops. Tandem boxes are manufactured white and stainless steel. The latter, of course, are twice as expensive.

If you happen to be on furniture exhibition, stop by the Blum stand. You can’t even imagine how pleasant and high-quality the usual furniture fittings. But the tandembox costs accordingly: 1000-2000 rub. per set.

10. Doors for sliding wardrobes

The last thing worth talking about in our furniture educational program is wardrobes. In general, the kitchen and wardrobe are the most accessible and interesting areas of activity for a novice furniture maker. Well, not counting, of course, bedside tables and shelves. Furniture for the living room and bedrooms usually requires a serious design approach, the use of non-standard or difficult-to-process materials: natural wood, tempered glass. With kitchens and wardrobes, everything is simple and clear.

The sliding wardrobe comes in two versions: with walls (side and back) and without them. the latter option is simply a part of the room (usually a niche) fenced off with sliding doors, inside which you can do whatever you want: shelves, drawers, hangers, and a bunch of other interesting things. Here are listed and photographs of the most common elements filling sliding wardrobes.

The most interesting and attractive mechanism in a sliding wardrobe is its sliding doors. You can’t skimp here, and you need to buy only high-quality fittings - otherwise you’ll suffer with falling and jamming doors so much that you yourself won’t be happy. In our city, the only decent stuff they sell is sliding systems domestic company Aristo, however, according to reviews they are quite worthy.

A sliding wardrobe usually contains two or three doors. Each door is a canvas enclosed in a special frame made of decorated aluminum profile. In this case, the door does not have to be uniform - it can be created from two or more different panels, connected at any angle using a special profile.

Traditionally, the frame profile for sliding wardrobe doors is designed for a leaf thickness of 10 mm. For the manufacture of blind doors, 10 mm are usually used laminated chipboard sheets. A design alternative to it can be special sheets rattan(decorative wicker), bamboo, and even artificial leather (on a base made of chipboard or MDF).

Using special silicone seals, a 4-mm mirror. The main thing is that those who will cut your mirrors for the cabinet do not forget to apply a special elastic film on its back side, which will hold the fragments in the event of an impact. Even if the child breaks mirror surface, this will significantly reduce the likelihood of getting hurt.

In order for the doors to move, guides are attached to the bottom and top. The lower guides of the sliding wardrobe ensure the opening/closing of the door, the upper ones ensure the fixation of the door relative to the depth of the cabinet. The lower rollers are usually made of plastic, equipped with a shock-absorbing spring and a screw for height adjustment. The upper rollers have a rubberized surface.

For more information on self-production cabinet furniture, I strongly recommend reading the following resources:

. http://mebelsoft.net/forum/- Forum of professional furniture makers. Perhaps the largest and most popular resource dedicated to this topic.

. http://www.mastercity.ru/forumdisplay.php?f=19- City of Craftsmen, section "furniture and interior design". Those who try to do everything with their own hands gather here.

. http://mebelsam.com- DIY furniture. There are many articles and examples of a wide variety of technologies, not just cabinet furniture.

. http://www.makuha.ru- Furniture directory. A beginner portal, but it already contains interesting articles.

Well, that’s the end of our little furniture educational program. I hope you are now full of strength and determination to make cabinet furniture with your own hands. Add a little imagination here in choosing colors, edges, fittings and figured cuts- and you will get the opportunity to make the furniture that exactly what you need.

And it's not even about what happens cheaper and often better quality than in the store. And it’s not that you no longer limit yourself to factory models. The fact is that the things you have made, the things in which you have invested your soul, your enthusiasm and skill, are stored the warmth of your hands. I think this is important.

Along with the usual ones, PVC edging is used to frame the ends of the chipboard. As a rule, it is used in places high humidity, high risk of mechanical damage or based on design decisions.

A distinctive feature of PVC edging is that it is made immediately to a specific thickness of the slab, where trimming of excess width is not allowed. The most common width sizes are 16.18 and 32 mm.

Also, the installation technology of this profile does not allow it to be joined at the corners. For example, in order to edge two adjacent ends, you need to round the corner (at least along the very minimum radius).

• Invoice (U-shaped)
  • Hard
  • Flexible
• Mortise (T-shaped)
  • No girth
  • With girth

U-shaped edging

Working with such PVC edging for furniture is not at all dusty, and you can even do it at home.

Hard “click and done”

Used for edging straight edges of chipboard. It is also possible to edge the ends of chipboard with a small rounding radius. The only tools needed are your hands and the edge itself. Just snap the profile onto the end and you're done. And the side ends are closed with special plugs.

It is precisely because of this installation method that people love it. But it also has its drawbacks, which manifest themselves in the inability to edge rounded (radius) parts.

Flexible

This edging can be used as furniture edging for lining the ends of chipboard, both straight and rounded. For installation you will need a sharp knife and good glue. If there are concerns about moisture penetration, use silicone sealant in excess instead of glue.

To improve adhesion between the edge and the end of the chipboard, the inner surface of the profile can be scratched in different directions with a sharp object (knife, screwdriver, scissors).

For hardness this profile room temperature also affects. Therefore, it is recommended to stuff it in a warm room, where it becomes softer and more “obedient.”

Everything else is simple. Apply glue or sealant to the inside of the edge and glue it to the end of the chipboard. Iron it thoroughly and also remove excess glue. We trim the edges of the edging only after two hours of exposure, when the glue has set. Well, complete drying of the glue will occur only after one day.

You can trim the excess profile to length sharp knife or garden pruning shears.

PVC mortise T profile

T-shaped edging is quite often used in manufacturing modern furniture. This is not surprising, since it has a number of undeniable advantages:

• Chic appearance (structural, matte, glossy and reflective surfaces),
• Sturdy mount
• Hides chips and unevenness at the ends of the slab,
• Easy to install on complex parts with both outer and inner radius.

The only negative T-profile PVC You can call it the need to mill a groove. For milling, we will need a hand router with a 2.8-3 mm cutter, as well as a special room, since there will be a lot of dust, and we don’t need that at home.

But still, this minus is not so terrible as to completely abandon this type of edging of the ends of chipboard.

Types of T-profile

Mortise T-shaped profile can be:

• No girth
• With girth.

It can also be:

• Solid,
• Soft.

A mortise edging without a girth is used quite rarely, because it is not able to reliably hide the unevenness of the end and protect it from moisture and debris.

The mortise T-shaped profile with a girth (with antennae) is quite popular. It is especially popular when edging curved and radius parts that are being cut (in these cases it is simply irreplaceable).

Usually, after cutting a part with a jigsaw with a low-quality cutting blade, chips form across the entire surface of the end, which a regular furniture edge cannot hide. Therefore, only a T-shaped mortise edge with antennae should be used here, and the larger they are, the better.

When choosing a mortise edge, give preference to a rigid profile. Do not take a soft edging; you will suffer a lot with it both during installation and when using the part itself.

The fact is that the soft mortise edging is quite flimsy and when driven into the groove, its leg will bend and break very much. Even if you fill it properly, it will constantly bend back, thereby always getting debris under it. Also, all the potholes and unevenness of the end will be visible under it. And this will have a negative impact on general view products.

The ideal solution would be a mortise T-shaped hard edge with large antennae.

For installation we will need:

• Manual electric router,
• Edge cutter with a tooth thickness of 2.8-3 mm and a depth of at least 10 mm,
• Rubber hammer.

The first step is to make a high-quality groove at the end of the chipboard. It should be located strictly in the center (16 mm in the slab - exactly 8 mm from the edge).

We make the groove with a cutter with a tooth thickness of 2.8-3 mm. For reliable fastening, the width of the groove should be 0.5-0.7 mm less than the thickness of the tenon (T-leg) of the edge, and the depth should be at least 10 mm.

If suddenly the groove turns out to be very wide, you will need to use glue or liquid nails. But it will take additional time for it to dry.

Before stuffing the T-shaped PVC profile The end must be cleaned of chips and sanded with sandpaper.

When driving the edge into the groove, bend the profile towards you. This is done so that the antennae do not rest against the edges of the end, but immediately wrap around it on both sides.

If you put edging on parts with a large outer radius, for example, on a rounded corner, then in order for the profile to fit normally and not form an “accordion” in the leg, you need to make a cutout in it.

When stuffing, use only a rubber mallet! With a regular hammer you will simply ruin the edge.

If you use PVC edging with a reflective surface, then protective film should be removed after all installation work, only on the finished product.

The video below shows the operation of the machine for milling the end for installation of a mortise T-shaped edge:

And here is a semi-automatic machine for driving in a T-shaped edge: