With the advent of metal plastic windows There is a trend towards their widespread implementation. In many matters, they are indeed more practical than wooden ones. Many users cite their tightness and lack of need to care for them, like wooden ones. But after a certain period of time they need maintenance, so it is important to know how to insulate plastic windows. The article will discuss the reasons for the need for such maintenance, as well as ways to identify problem areas.

Causes of problems

Consumers who choose plastic windows are mistakenly confident that they will be able to remain airtight throughout their entire service life. At first, such windows really reduce heat loss and coolant bills. Much depends not only on the quality of plastic windows, but also on the method of their installation. If the latter was done in violation of basic rules, then you may not see the difference with old wooden windows. In addition to errors that were made during installation, the following factors can worsen the situation:

• wear of insulation;
• detachment of linings from the glass unit;
• changing window geometry;
• wear of shut-off valves;
• wear of the PVC base;
• improper installation of window sills;
• violation of slope finishing technology.

Insulation in most cases is represented by rubber gaskets, which dry out and become unusable due to constant changes in temperature and humidity. The consequence of this is drafts and loss of tightness. Problem areas are also the places where the glass unit is pressed against the window frame. If the slats begin to lag behind, this will lead to condensation and the appearance of ice on the window. In production, the angles of the frame and window sashes are made ideal, but their geometry may be violated physical impact. For example, the shrinkage of a building can change the angle, causing a sash to leak or a gap to appear near the wall.

Metal fittings, which are used in plastic windows to secure the sashes, fail over time. In this case, the window cannot be pressed with the proper force, which is why problems arise. Each material has its own service life, this also applies to PVC profile. It may also be the reason that the window has lost its seal. It can leak from under the windowsill. If during installation the window sill was replaced with a plastic one, then errors could have been made during installation, which left a gap through which cold air. Slopes require compliance with finishing technology so that they can fulfill their tasks. If they are not sealed enough, then problems are bound to arise.

Resolving issues related to the repair or maintenance of plastic windows can be entrusted to a company that specializes in this. Usually in the arsenal of craftsmen there are components that often fail and require replacement. The work will be completed quickly, but it is worth considering that you will have to pay a certain part of the budget for such a procedure. Therefore, it is easier to insulate plastic windows yourself.

Identifying causes

Before you begin to eliminate the problem that has arisen in plastic windows, you need to accurately determine its location. To do this, you need to carefully inspect the window frame for any defects. If you couldn’t identify them visually, then you can do this:

• tactile;
• using a lighter;
• a sheet of paper.

If you wet your hand in warm water and bring it to the window, then you can immediately feel the place where the draft breaks through the gap. Sometimes this is not enough, then you can resort to using a lighter or match. It is enough to light a flame and hold it near the problem area of ​​the plastic window; if there really is a defect, then the flame will deviate to one side, everything will depend on the direction of the air flow. To identify loss of tightness due to insulation, a sheet of paper is used. You need to open the window, place a sheet of paper and close the window. If the sheet is easily pulled out, then we can safely talk about a leaky seal.

When to carry out work

It is not always convenient to maintain and insulate plastic windows in winter. That's why best time there will be a spring-autumn period. This is explained by the appropriate air temperature, which makes it possible to freely open and close windows without fear of catching a cold or increasing the consumption of gas or other media for heating. Insulation of plastic windows may require the use of building mixtures. Most of them are used only at above-zero temperatures, which is also the key to proper drying. Excessive humidity, which may be present in late autumn and winter, is also an obstacle to normal work. At optimal temperature It is easy to carry out not only internal but also external work.

External window insulation

Proper insulation of plastic windows involves external and interior work. The first include:

• finishing of external slopes;
• insulation of ebb tides.

Each type of work requires its own approach, so it is important to consider them separately.

External slopes

Most often, during the installation of windows, the external slopes are not finished, so they are the first point that should be taken care of when insulating a plastic window. Without this event, you can do whatever you want from within, but it will not give any effect. Insulating plastic windows on the street side makes it possible to move the dew point. This way, moisture condensation will not occur on the inside of the glass. This often leads to the appearance of mold, which not only spoils the appearance, but is also harmful to health. Another factor that requires finishing of slopes is polyurethane foam. If it is not protected from ultraviolet radiation and precipitation, it will begin to crumble, which will only intensify drafts.

To carry out the work you will need insulation, glue and tools. It is best to use extruded polystyrene foam as insulation for slopes. It has minimal thermal conductivity and is easy to install. This insulation also perfectly resists moisture and is not susceptible to rotting. To secure it to the wall you will need dowels in the shape of umbrellas, as well as special glue.

Pay attention! If you want to use stone wool to insulate a slope, you need to take care of its high-quality waterproofing. If this is not done, then it will pick up moisture and lose its insulating properties, which will not solve the problem.

The first step is to clean it well window slopes from garbage. If there are sagging marks left on them from the old plaster, then they should also be knocked off with a hammer or a hammer drill with a chisel. If there are cracks or other damage, they must be repaired using tile adhesive or a similar solution. After this, the surface is covered with a deeply penetrating acrylic primer. If the first layer is absorbed too quickly, then you can apply another one and wait until it dries completely. Using a construction knife, the insulation is cut to the required size. An adhesive base is applied to it and it is placed in place. At the same time, it should fit tightly to the window frame.

Using a hammer drill, several holes are drilled in the insulation and the wall. A small amount of foam is blown into them and plastic umbrellas are clogged, which will additionally press the insulation to the wall surface. All remaining gaps that may exist between the insulation and the plastic window are sealed with glue. The insulation is covered with a small layer of glue. After this, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on it, which increases the strength of the slopes. Using a spatula, the mesh is pressed against the insulation so that the glue spreads evenly onto its surface. After grouting and drying, you can begin finishing works. You can watch a video about insulating window slopes below.

Working with tides

Insulating the ebb of a plastic window is not a difficult task, so it can be easily done and will not require large funds. It is important to carefully inspect the space and eliminate all the gaps that exist between the wall and the window. A metal strip is mounted on the low tide, which covers part of the opening and prevents it from getting wet. Under the bar you can place a small piece of insulation, which is firmly glued to the surface. All cracks are additionally filled with sealant.

Internal insulation of windows

The process of how to insulate windows with your own hands also includes interior decoration some nodes. These include:

• internal slopes;
• insulation;
• windowsill.

Insulation will require special patience and care.

Internal slopes

The process of how to insulate the slopes of plastic windows from the inside is very similar to what was described above. Internal slopes require careful processing to achieve a pleasant appearance. It must match the chosen interior. The first step is to cut off the protruding foam, and also add it in those places where cracks have formed. The old finishing that was near the old windows is completely removed. The surface of the slopes is treated with a deep penetration primer and left until completely dry. The next step will be the installation of drywall, plastic panels or putty and plaster.

Pay attention! After finishing, the slopes can be painted using water-based paint or finish with decorative plaster, which is better than using plastic panels.

Windowsill

The window sill is an integral part of the window. For plastic windows, PVC window sills are used, which can be of various sizes and designs. But we must unite them correct installation. First of all, you need to find out where the heat loss is going. The gap can be between the window and the window sill, as well as the window sill and the concrete part. In the first case, it is necessary to seal the gap with sealant. For a white profile, you can purchase white sealant, and for other colors, transparent is perfect if the required color is not available.

If it blows from under the window sill, then certain mistakes were made during its installation. In cases where complete dismantling of the window sill is impossible, there is an option using foam to try to blow out problem areas. After the procedure, it is advisable to place something heavy on the windowsill so that the foam does not deform it and lift it up. If you have the opportunity to remove the window sill, you can additionally foam the junction of the window and the wall. A small layer of insulation is also placed under the window sill.

Advice! Insulation can be done using a special film. The process of such insulation is shown in the video below.

Insulation

In some cases, it may be necessary to replace the insulation on the window sash and frame. In plastic windows, replacing insulation is a simple matter. The use of adhesives is not required here. The rubber base is fixed in special grooves that are located on plastic profile. The old insulation is disposed of. To make it easier to insert the insulation into the grooves of the sash or frame, it can be slightly moistened with soapy water. It is worth remembering that it must be laid in one contour. To do this, it is important to measure everything correctly and make a small reserve. It is better to opt for black insulation, which is also made of PVC. Insulation materials painted in a different color have a less durable structure, which leads to their rapid wear. In some cases, it is necessary to replace the rubber seal that holds the glass unit in place. To do this, you need to remove the retaining strips and the glass unit itself. The junction points are cleaned of dust and other dirt, after which the insulation is installed and the glass unit is installed.

Advice! Before replacing the insulation on the window, you need to try to adjust it or switch it to winter mode. The illustration below shows how this can be done.

Resume

As you can see, plastic windows also require insulation. If, after calculating the cost of time, effort and money, it becomes obvious that you can earn a large sum during self-insulation, then it is better to hire specialists who will do everything themselves. When working to insulate a window, you must be extremely careful and follow safety rules, especially if the window is not on the first floor.

A warm home is the key to a cozy atmosphere and comfortable living for all family members. To make our home warmer, we use energy-saving technologies, make heated floors, use alternative sources heat.
An important factor is not only the accumulation of heat during the cold season, but also its preservation. Experts, not without reason, believe that about 40% of heat escapes through our windows.

It's no secret that panoramic glazing, large windows to the floor is one of the main causes of heat loss. Plastic and wooden windows also need insulation, thanks to which in winter you can significantly save on heating.

Insulate plastic windows for the winter with your own hands

Plastic windows that have been in use for a long time also need insulation in winter.
If the window has served you for a long time and the cold began to let in the first season, then you need to adjust locking mechanism and change the insulation. Frost, condensation or frost inside the frame may indicate depressurization of the window.

1. Replacing the plastic window seal

You can replace the plastic window seal yourself. It is better to buy a “native” seal. If you cannot buy one, you can consult the seller at hardware store. To select the appropriate seal, just take a small piece of the old one with you.
It's better if rubber seal will be black. It doesn't show much street dust.

First you need to remove the handle of the sash so as not to damage it. Lay the sash inside(where the handle is) down. Next, you need to remove the old insulation by prying it off with a knife, clean and degrease the groove. After the insulation is laid around the perimeter of the window, you need to cut the sealing profile 0.25-0.5 cm longer than the perimeter. This remainder of the seal must be pressed into the groove. The seal on the frame is also replaced.

After this, the sash is installed in place. The sash is placed on the lower hinge from top to bottom, then the parts of the upper hinge are connected away from you, the pin, lock washer and hinge cover are installed. We close the sash with a lock and check the quality of the work performed by testing the joint for drafts.

It is advisable to clean and wipe the seal 1-2 times a year. The seal should be wiped with a dry cloth to remove accumulated dirt. Then it is better to degrease the seal for the plastic window with a soap solution and apply silicone grease. Such preventive work will protect the seal from high temperatures in the summer and will allow it to retain its qualities longer in the cold.

2. Adjusting plastic window fittings

Over time, plastic window locks require adjustment. The fixed part of the lock is located on the frame. The main indicator for adjusting locks is the bolt head recessed into the structure, which has a groove for a hex key. This is an adjusting bolt that changes the position of the wedge behind which the locking “tongue” of the lock fits. Adjusting this wedge changes the tightness of the sash to the frame in the closed position. IN summer period the closure density can be weakened, but in winter, on the contrary, the density should be increased as much as possible. To adjust the lock of a plastic window, use a hex key.

3. Insulation of slopes and window sills.

It’s good if, when installing a plastic window, PVC slopes and window sills were installed at the same time. If you can hear a draft through a plastic window, you need to take care of insulating the slopes and window sills. Large cracks can be filled with tow or foam rubber. You can optionally fill the cracks at the top polyurethane foam or alabaster. Then finish treating the cracks with sealant.

We insulate wooden windows for the winter with our own hands

4. In order to eliminate drafts in the house, you need to place pieces of paper, which are previously moistened and twisted into a bundle. On top of such insulation, paper is usually used to increase the tightness. Disadvantage this method is that after the cold weather, dried paper will need to be removed from the frames, and the frames themselves will need to be repainted.

5. The next method of insulating wooden ones is to place cotton wool and pieces of foam rubber. You can stick strips of unnecessary fabric 5 cm wide on top. Before using such fabric strips, they need to be wetted, wrung out and soaped with soap. Compared to paper, the fabric will not turn yellow and can be easily removed in the spring.

Important: the foam seal absorbs moisture, so it must be replaced annually.

6. Insulation of window slits using paraffin. First, the paraffin must be melted to a temperature of 70 degrees. Then, using a heated syringe, paraffin is injected into the cracks.

7. Insulation using tubular profiles. Such profiles are also sometimes called gaskets. Such insulation is made for large and small cracks. The advantage of the insulation is that it is invisible, as it is glued to one side of the frame. Service life up to at least 5 years. The peculiarity of these profiles is that you need to start insulating the window before the onset of severe cold weather. Since such profiles can be installed at a temperature not lower than 10 degrees. Seals from PVC is better tolerate frosts. When choosing rubber seals, it is better to give preference to softer ones.

8. Another modern and convenient way insulate wooden windows heat-saving film. The peculiarity of this material is that it has two sides: simple and with metal coating. Due to this, he misses sun rays through itself, but does not let it through infrared radiation back. This explains its heat-saving effect. The material is glued to both glass and frames. If executed correctly, it will be almost invisible to the eye, and the room will immediately become significantly warmer.

Window insulation using Swedish technology

The patented name for this technology is EuroStrip. In some countries it is also called Canadian technology.

Window insulation using Swedish technology is good because it allows you to preserve environmentally friendly wooden windows, providing them with for many years good tightness. This technology is also good because it allows you to significantly reduce street noise and reduce the penetration of dirt and dust between the doors to almost zero. The cost of insulating windows using Swedish technology is tens of times lower than the cost of installing new plastic windows

The material for sealing using this technology is made of wear-resistant and durable rubber, which contains natural rubber. The material is also not exposed to water and is able to maintain its heat-saving properties in the temperature range from -53°C to +128°C. That is, in any weather conditions, Swedish insulation will protect the house from drafts. Of particular note is the heat savings in the apartment. After the work is completed, the temperature in the house increases by an average of 3-5°C. A specially made wide profile provides protection from rain, wind, noise and dust. Aesthetically, the window retains its original appearance. When the doors are closed, the insulation is not even visible.

High-quality insulation of windows using Swedish technology is carried out in stages, in compliance with all technological requirements.

Insulation process wooden windows using Swedish technology:
1) First you need to thoroughly wash the windows.
2) Check the valves. Do they close tightly and do all mechanisms work?
3) Remove the doors from their hinges.
4) Excess layers are ground off the sashes old paint that interfere with closing and opening.
5) Use a cutter to create grooves along the entire contour of the sashes.
6) A special high-quality seal is rolled into the grooves 7) To reduce the penetration of dust and dirt, the window sashes are insulated between each other and inside.
8) The sashes are put in place, and the fittings are replaced.
9) The sashes and the correct operation of the wooden window fittings are checked.

Experts who deal with window insulation say that such insulation work is best left to professionals. Since work on window insulation using Swedish technology is required special skills and the corresponding tool. Using a cutter when rolling the seal into the groove ensures that the seal will not peel off or fall out over time.

Alternative methods of insulation

Heat leaves the house through dirty windows. Do you want to make your home warmer? clean all the windows before the onset of cold weather. It has been proven that a window, if it becomes dirty and loses transparency in the visible part of the spectrum, increases transparency in the infrared spectrum. And heat leaves the house due to drafts and infrared radiation escaping outside. It is best to wash windows using ethyl or ammonia. This will clear grease accumulations on the kitchen windows and avoid streaks on the glass.

Use wool blinds. Conventional slats are wrapped in strips of wool and fabric. Such blinds provide good protection from the cold.

Electric window heating. It involves installing a special heating coil on the windows, which provides heating. This heating method should be provided at the stage of window installation.

Related articles:

Installation and installation of windows Window accessories

In this article we will figure out how to insulate plastic windows for the winter with your own hands in order to enjoy a pleasant temperature in the house during frosts.

What determines the need for insulation?

By installing polyvinyl chloride (PVC) windows, which are modern high-tech structures, many consumers are confident that such products are guaranteed to protect their homes from the cold. Theoretically, this is how it should be. Properly installed plastic windows perform their task for a long time - they retain heat. But even the best PVC profiles lose their properties over time performance characteristics and the level of thermal insulation of the room decreases. If plastic window structures were initially installed in violation of technology, problems with them will begin quite quickly.

Winter insulation of plastic windows from any manufacturer is usually required due to:

• natural wear of the seal;
• linings extending from the glass unit;
• violations of the geometry of windows caused by shrinkage by the wall of a residential building;
• loose adjusting locking elements of PVC construction;
• wear and tear of the materials from which the products were made;
• improperly installed window sill or slopes.

Problems with polyvinyl chloride structures are solved in two ways. You can call specialists from a company that deals with additional insulation, sale, and window repair. And they're in tight deadlines will do everything at a professional level necessary work. Comfortable? Without a doubt. But the problem is that the cost of the services of such specialists is often similar to the cost of purchasing a new PVC profile. Not every person will agree to pay that kind of money. In this case, it makes sense to figure out how and with what to insulate plastic windows. And try to complete all the activities yourself.

What kind of work can you really do yourself?

At home, it is impossible to eliminate serious defects in plastic windows. With your own hands you can insulate only the following elements of a PVC product:

• internal slopes;
• window frame contour;
• ebb and window sill outside the room.

At the same time, you should not forget about safety precautions. For example, it is undesirable to carry out external work in cases where windows are installed in apartments above the second floor of the building. An important nuance. Insulation should be done exclusively in warm weather. Choose a dry, windless summer or spring day, understand the technology for performing the work in advance, and stock up the necessary materials and tools. And only after that begin to restore the operational properties of the windows.

At the first stage, you need to clearly determine which areas of the window structure require insulation. Bring the lit lighter to window profile and start moving it around the perimeter of the PVC product. In places where the flame begins to fluctuate, insulation needs to be done. The most vulnerable areas are the joints of the frame and wall surfaces, slopes and ebbs. If there are significant leaks, you won't even need to use a lighter. The wind blowing will be felt with an open palm.

You should also analyze the condition window fittings. It often causes the seal of a plastic structure to break. If you see any defect or malfunction on the fittings, simply install a new part. You may not need to take any further steps after this.

Be sure to examine the condition of the profile clamping mechanism. It is this that ensures the tightness of the window. Pay attention to the rubber seal. During operation, the gasket installed on the PVC structure loses its density (the phenomenon is due to climatic conditions and mechanical stress). This leads to a significant reduction in the volume and thickness of the elastic. If the gasket has cracks, gouges, or wrinkles, it should be replaced immediately. In the next section we will describe in detail how to restore the tightness of a window profile.

We reanimate thermal insulation - the procedure for different situations

Let's start by replacing the worn out rubber seal. If this is the reason (the gasket has become thinner and lost its original elasticity), proceed according to the following scheme:

1. 1. Dismantle the glazing bead along the area of ​​the structure with the detected flaw.
2. 2. Remove the linings and carefully remove the glass unit.
3. 3. Pull out the old seal and install a new one. The length of the latter should be 40–50 mm longer than the initial piece. You will cut off the extra centimeters after installing the new elastic band. Its installation should be done without tension or excessive force.
4. 4. Install the previously dismantled parts (glazing beads, linings, package) in the reverse order.

Before installing a new gasket, remove dust from the window grooves, wash them thoroughly and dry them. Then installing the seal will not cause any difficulties. He will stand up like a glove.

In cases where the seal looks intact, proceed to adjust the clamping mechanism. To perform this operation, you need to stock up on a special window key. First, inspect the glass unit. Lightly press it and release it. If it does not wobble too much, strengthen the clamp with silicone sealant. Such a composition should not include acids, which can negatively affect the rubber seal. If the double-glazed window is noticeably wobbly, you will need to adjust the special. with a trunnion key - metal cylinders fixed in slots. Loosen any existing bolts. And then tighten the hooks that hold the cylinders.

In some cases, it is necessary to adjust the adjusting locks on the windows. Two screws should be found in the area where the plumb lines are located for the PVC structure. One of them is responsible for the level of pressure on the sash, the second holds it in a given position. Take a screwdriver, loosen (completely) the fixing screw, and then gradually tighten the clamping element (clockwise). After tightening, close the window, arm yourself with a lighter, and check the structure for drafts. If the flame fluctuates, slightly tighten the adjustment screw again. Carry out the specified sequence of operations until you are sure that there is no draft.

Insulation for PVC windows – which one to choose and how to use?

Additional thermal insulation of plastic window structures can be performed different materials.As a rule, for these purposes they use:

• Mineral or stone wool. Slightly outdated, but quite effective heat-insulating materials for plastic windows (especially their window sills).
• Construction foam. This insulation should be used with caution. It cracks and then collapses under the influence of elevated temperatures and the rays of the sun.
• Silicone sealant. Easy-to-use material with high energy-saving properties.
• A primer with water-repellent characteristics (for example,). An additional layer of paint must be applied to it.
• Foam plastic. Used for filling gaps in slopes.
• Heat-saving film. Modern method of insulation plastic structures, which is quite popular among home craftsmen.

Let's see how to use energy-saving film. This insulation option guarantees high-quality results with little effort. You will need a hairdryer, tape (required double-sided), sharp scissors, or better yet, a stationery knife. Insulate the window using a simple algorithm. First remove dirt and dust from metal-plastic construction Using a damp cloth, degrease the cleaned areas. After that you paste it over double-sided tape window box.

Cut the energy-saving film to the required dimensions using a stationery knife. Attach the resulting strips to tape. All that remains is to spray the glued insulation with hot air from a hairdryer and, if necessary, remove air bubbles from under the film (carefully pierce them with a knife). The described method for owners of plastic products is the most profitable in terms of financial expenses.

Internal and external slopes of windows are insulated, as noted, with foam plastic, as well as three-layer special panels, pieces of extruded polystyrene foam, and fiberglass materials. Small cracks (up to 4 cm wide) can be sealed with polyurethane foam. Internal slopes are insulated with foam plastic as follows: treat the problem area with a primer, plaster the surface, install a foam sheet using mounting adhesive, wait for the insulation to set, and apply a layer of putty on top. Some home craftsmen additionally cover the thermal insulation layer with plasterboard sheets.

Outside, the slopes are insulated a little differently. Treat them with a primer. IN in this case it is necessary to use formulations with antibacterial additives. Then you plaster the surface (if it is smooth, you can do without this step). Cut a slab from a piece of polystyrene. It should cover the entire slope. Mount the slab using metal corner and dowels (in addition, you can use mounting adhesive). Install a fiberglass mesh over the resulting structure. It is usually placed on an adhesive composition. After the slope has dried, you need to paint it with water-based paint.

Preparing a window sill for winter is a simple matter!

Separately, I would like to say a few words about how to insulate the window sill of a plastic window. If this element of the PVC structure is installed poorly, there is a high probability of the formation of a wide and deep crack.

Also, illiterate installation causes the appearance of relatively small gaps between the contacting parts of the window sill, under which it is often placed. In both the first and second cases, cold air will begin to penetrate into the home. This cannot be allowed. Do the following:

• carefully open the special plugs on the windowsill;
• use a screwdriver to unscrew the fasteners;
• remove the window sill.

All problem areas that were not previously visible under the dismantled structure will open before you. Seal small gaps silicone sealant or polyurethane foam. Large holes should be filled with stone or mineral wool, covered with a plastic sheet on top and secured with the latter. After this, put the window sill in place. Now your home will be much warmer.

If the cold enters the house through a plastic window, do not rush to call the specialists. As you can see, many jobs can be easily done with your own hands, achieving good results. Try to bring comfort and warmth back to your home yourself!

A seemingly perfect solution like plastic windows has a number of potential problems.

Useful information:

The room may not be warm enough and sometimes there are even drafts. When the window opening starts to blow, and the common cold becomes a constant companion, it’s time to address this issue. It is worth approaching this problem thoroughly, having previously purchased the necessary building material so that the insulation process does not smoothly turn into protracted unfinished construction or, even worse, into protracted treatment.

Required materials

What materials and tools are needed for emergency elimination of drafts and subsequent high-quality insulation.

• Polyurethane foam.
• Silicone sealant.
• Adjustment key for fittings.

Reasons for poor window insulation

At this stage, the cause of the draft should be determined.

• The operation of the fittings is not adjusted.
• The sealing rubber bands of the sash and frame have dried out or do not press tightly.
• The beads do not hold the glass tightly and do not press it.
• It blows from under external ebbs, window sills or internal slopes.
• The window opening was not well foamed and thermally insulated during installation.

Adjusting fittings

If the leaf comes out easily again, then it's all about sealing rubber sashes and frames. Over time they dried out and lost their elasticity. Needs replacement. We cut out a small piece from the sash, also from the frame (they are different in volume), and go to the nearest retail supermarket chain furniture fittings, to the market or contact installers. You need to measure how many meters of both seals you need.

Loose fit of glazing beads

Finding and replacing glazing beads is a rather tedious task; it is better to turn to specialists. Well, if you want, eliminate the draft, without replacing and on our own, then carefully remove the glazing beads from the landing grooves. This must be done using a special spatula, with short and sharp blows, at an angle of 45 degrees along the body of the bead. Be sure to hold the glass: with your hand, with your head, and ask your neighbor so that the glass does not fall out of the sash when removing the glazing beads. We charge a bottle of sealant into a piston gun and fill the space between the glass and the sash, along the perimeter of the sash (frame, if blind window, without sash). Using a rubber hammer, hammer the glazing beads into the grooves of the sash. You need to start with short beads and from the corner of the sash. Now there will never be any blowing in this place, even if the glass is not pressed tightly.

Blows from the street side from under the tides, cornice

If external ebbs and cornices are installed poorly, unfilled cavities remain between them and the wall opening, which, if installed correctly, should contain heat-insulating material. It provides good thermal and noise insulation of the house. To eliminate this problem, you need to open the sash and carefully examine the places where the metal ebbs and cornices adhere to the wall.

If you find gaps, cracks, or voids, you need to fill them with polyurethane foam. To do this, we definitely need insurance. And by leaning half a length out of the window, you can easily reach places that are not filled with thermal insulation.

If your windows are not standard (stained glass, balconies, loggias), do not take risks! Contact the specialists.

Excess dried foam can be cut off after a few hours. When it is not possible to turn to specialists due to the banal lack of extra money, and at the same time there is no desire to be exposed to drafts, we abandon this idea until better times and carry out insulation from the inside.

Insulating the window opening under the window sill

If you find that the space between the cornice and the wall opening is not filled with foam, and there is no way to fill it from the outside. Then we do it from the inside. Under the window sill there should be a distance to the opening of about 2 centimeters, filled with heat-insulating material. Using a screwdriver, knife or stiff wire, remove the foam to gain access to the unfilled voids under the street cornice. It is not necessary to select all the foam; you need to select enough to stick the nozzle of the gun through to evenly fill the voids under the eaves. We load the cornice so that the foam does not lift it.

We insure the cargo against accidental loss (there may be people below!)

We seal the joint between the window sill and the frame with silicone sealant from the inside and outside, and remove the excess with a wet rag.

Thermal insulation of a window opening

One of the reasons for drafts is insufficiently filled voids between the window (wall) opening and the window frame. Therefore, we look through it for the presence of insulation and check for the absence of drafts. You can check it using the flame of a lighter (candle), or with the palm of your hand.

To be completely sure, in the absence of a draft, you can ask someone to open and close the door to the room. While you smoothly carry along the window opening open flame lighters (palm). Air draft will definitely make itself felt if there are gaps in the opening.

After eliminating drafts, energy-saving film is used for more effective insulation and heat retention. The film is self-adhesive and to install it you need to remove the glass from the window. Remove dust and dirt, moisten the glass surface with soapy water. Apply the film, spreading it evenly. Use a rubber spatula to squeeze out the remaining solution. Trim off excess film stationery knife along the edges of the glass. Carefully insert into the frame (sash), hammer in the glazing beads with a rubber hammer.

With these practical advice, you can easily insulate your windows.

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Stammer

About 50% of the lost heat leaves the apartment through windows in winter, and you can insulate yourself quickly, simply and inexpensively, so it makes complete sense to understand this issue in more detail. The primary task in this case is to insulate the windows yourself, but a separate section is also devoted to issues of general insulation of the room.

It’s not very wise to start construction and repair work in the winter, so we’ll look at how to insulate an apartment, in most cases, without even moving the furniture. Nevertheless, the described procedures most often allow you to survive a winter with frosts of -20 in a destroyed Khrushchev block in sweatpants and a T-shirt, without spending too much on heating.

Heat transfer mechanisms and methods of controlling them

Back in school, we learned in physics that there are three mechanisms of heat transfer: direct heat transfer (thermal conduction), convection and thermal (infrared) radiation. In a cold apartment, all three occur:

• Thermal conduction - through walls, windows and doors, floor on the ground floor and ceiling on the top.
• Infrared radiation - most of all through window glass; in block Khrushchev buildings with radiators in wall niches, up to 15% of heat loss comes from radiation through the walls.
• Convection - through cracks, cracks, porous materials.

According to the mechanisms of heat loss, the methods of insulating the room for the winter also differ.

Thermal conductivity

It is difficult to combat heat transfer: in most cases, construction work is required, and external work. When insulating from the inside, it is possible that the dew point will move inside the room, and this not only negates all efforts for comfort, but is also dangerous to health.

Read more about insulating apartment walls and under what conditions and how this can be done from the inside.

Fortunately, most materials used in construction conduct heat poorly, and direct heat removal through building structures, even in old block houses, does not exceed 25% of general meaning. Therefore, measures on walls and ceilings can be used as additional ones, or without them at all.

If such events are planned, then after insulating the windows you should tackle the floor and corners:

1. Heat transfer from the floor will need to be transferred from convection mode to radiation mode (see below section on additional insulation). At the same time thin layer the air near the walls will cool down a little, but overall the room will become warmer.
2. The thermal resistance of the corner is one and a half to two times less than that of flat wall the same thickness. Therefore, in order not to round the corners, they should, if possible, be isolated from the general heat exchange in the room - see the same section below.

Radiation

It is the most difficult thing to prevent heat rays from escaping: they are very “sneaky”, and where they leak is not visible. However, there are simple and cheap ways to significantly reduce heat transfer by radiation; they are described below.

Infrared diagram of heat removal from a private house. In a city apartment there are the same weak points: in most cases, first of all, these are windows.

Convection

The cracks in building structures to stop convection, naturally, they are sealed with any suitable materials. Window and door slopes(their thermal resistance is initially small, and convection occurs here even without gaps) should be additionally insulated with materials that conduct heat poorly. As for the cracks in the frames, there is interesting way turn convection from an enemy into a friend, it is described below in the corresponding section.

Window insulation

Slopes

Insulating windows for the winter begins with the slopes. First of all, we treat them along the contour around the window frame with a deep penetration concrete primer; Before doing this, it is advisable to remove the paint with sandpaper. This will increase the thermal resistance of concrete or brick.

For wooden houses slopes are treated in the same way with natural drying oil. It is impossible to use water-based polymer putties, which are simply wonderful in all other cases, for this purpose: they reduce the thermal resistance of wood.

Plastic slopes

Next, we install overhead PVC slopes, see the figure on the right. It will not cost much, but the thermal resistance of the “cold bridge” of the slope near the frame will increase tenfold. Cavity inside plastic slope we fill it with polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, and best of all - cheap jute or linen tow. An old washed (dirt is a good conductor of heat) potato sack, cut into strips or unraveled into threads, works perfectly.

In this case, mineral wool cannot be used categorically. Firstly, it is harmful to health when used in this way. Secondly, moisture will quickly be sucked out of the air, it will fall and, instead of heating, it will begin to cool.

Glass

If you are taking photographs, do this experiment: remove dirty glass through an infrared filter, and then wash it clean, and take a photograph again in the same way. For non-photographers, let’s immediately describe the result: the dirty one looks only a little cloudy, and the clean one looks silvery.

Glass itself reflects IFK well, but the dirt on the glass, which is almost transparent to it, works like clearing photooptics: transparency of the entire optical system For thermal radiation increases. Quirk of infrared rays.

Conclusion: In the winter, the glass needs to be washed until it squeaks when wiped with paper - the thinnest invisible film of dirt will do its job on the sly, and sealed against dust.

Sealing methods will be described in the next section, because... refer to the insulation of wooden frames. Double-glazed windows in PVC windows and so are quite sealed.

Next, we cover the inner glass from the inside, on the side of the room, with transparent self-adhesive. Even the crappiest self-adhesive from a Shanghai offshore shed reflects IFC better than glass, and it will definitely last a year in the room.

Don't worry about trying to smooth out bubbles on cheap self-adhesive tape. It is enough to pierce them with a thin needle and leave them alone: ​​they will soon fall off and stick.

Windowsill

It seems that such a small thing as an incorrectly installed or damaged window sill can cause additional heat loss.

A cold bridge often forms under the windowsill. If there is a gaping crack, foam it. Further repairs can be postponed until spring: it won’t be visible. It is advisable to attach a piece obliquely under the windowsill plastic board, filling the cavity with the same material as in the overhead slopes. In addition to insulation, this will improve air circulation from the radiator; you just need to make sure that there is a gap of at least 6-7 cm. A very good result is also achieved by using a rag roller, secured to the underside of the window sill and the wall with tape. Not in a modern way, but it’s still not visible. And it will last until spring with repairs.

Wooden windows

Insulating old wooden windows requires first of all sealing the glass and frames. The sealing locations and materials used are shown in the figure for “Swedish” windows with split frames. For regular windows An anti-dust gasket is not needed, but a contour seal will be required for the second frame. In all three cases, sealing can be simplified and cheaper.

Sealing wooden windows

Sealant

It is not necessary to use expensive branded compounds for this. Liquid is perfect silicone grease or silicone for renewal plastic bumpers and spoilers, sold in auto stores and car markets, and the cheapest “China” ones.

Horizontal joints are dripped from a pipette (you will have to throw it away later, but it’s cheap) at the rate of 1 cm - 1 drop, and after an hour they are dripped again. Vertical joints are dug starting from the top corner: a few drops are dropped one at a time until they flow into the joint, then the next section is dug, and so on to the bottom. Fresh excess sealant is removed with a cloth moistened with vinegar; frozen - cut off with a safety razor blade.

Anti-dust gasket

Foam rubber is suitable for one season, for several years - a rubber medical bandage or any thin rubber tape in a roll. You just need to make sure that there are no gaps at the joints: through them the window will attract dust more strongly than without a gasket.

Sealant

But here you can use a trick. There is such a phenomenon - the throttling effect. Simply, air, squeezing through a narrow hole, heats up due to internal friction - the viscosity of air, although negligible, is finite.

Using the throttle effect for insulation is not a discovery. Adhesive-backed foam rubber strips specifically for this purpose have been on sale for a long time. Microporous insulation works like this: when the pressure difference is small, air cannot leak through the foam, and the seal acts as a seal.

When there is a side wind, almost no air is sucked out of the room: turbulence in the window niches reduces the pressure difference. But the frontal, very cold wind pushes the air inside and it heats up due to the throttling effect, and the stronger the wind, the more intense it is. In general, the temperature in the room does not fall, but sometimes it gets warmer due to wind energy.

What's the trick then? The point is that when purchasing, you need to check the suitability of the foam rubber: apply it to your lips and blow. A slight resistance to exhalation should be felt: if the pores in the material are too wide or closed, there will be no throttling effect.

Foam sealant is short-lived: it needs to be removed and thrown away in the spring, and freshly sealed in the fall. But it's cheap.

Gaps in frames

Gaps and cracks in the frames themselves are covered liquid nails or liquid tree. The latter is much cheaper, but will last a season in an external frame and 3-5 years in an internal frame.

Video: insulating wooden windows using simple means

Plastic windows

The insulation of plastic windows comes down to washing the glass and, possibly, gluing the inner glass with film, to their inspection, adjustment and replacement of worn seals. The PVC window adjustment diagram is shown in the figure. Operations should be performed with a special key (sometimes supplied with the window) in the numbering sequence in the image.

You can learn more about the technique of adjusting plastic windows.

The sequence of the audit is as follows:

1. we check whether the double-glazed window is loose;
2. if it plays just a little bit, no more than 0.5 mm, dig around the edge with silicone sealant. “Ersatz” will no longer work here; you need to use special acid-free compounds;
3. if it is very loose, take it out and change the gaskets with spacers;
4. adjust the window until it fits snugly;
5. if the adjustment limits are exhausted (see note 2), change sealing gasket.

Notes:

1. You can once and for all fix the glass unit in the frame with aquarium silicone glue, viscous and durable. Fresh excess is removed with a cloth with vinegar, frozen excess is cut off with a blade. But after this it is impossible to replace the double-glazed window; you will have to break it and most likely the frame will break.
2. When adjusting, pay attention to the position of the adjusting pins (Fig. top right). If they easily turn to the maximum pressure position, the sealing gasket needs to be changed.
3. If there are visible signs of wear (shrinkage, wrinkles, cracks), the seal must be replaced in any case. It is unacceptable to push it into the groove using improvised means; you need to use a special tool (see figure below).

Video: preparing plastic windows for winter

Additional insulation

Balcony door

Replacing the seal

The exit to the balcony is insulated in the same way as a window. Often this is not enough, so in the winter it is advisable to cover the exit to the balcony with thick fabric or film from top to bottom. Best result provides a film on a slatted or profile frame that completely covers the opening from the side of the room.

Particular attention should be paid to the threshold. Here, a fluffy or thick wicker rug will be of great benefit: the cold stream will spread to the sides and become imperceptible; In addition, the throttle effect will also work, only superficially.

Entrance to the apartment

The entrance opening is insulated in the same way as the window openings, with one difference: instead of foam rubber seals, good old felt ones are best suited for the door. Foam rubber is generally unsuitable for doors. The quarter is insulated in the same way as a window slope.

Ventilation

The ventilation holes cannot be closed, but the blowing from them is noticeable at times. Radical way establish proper ventilation in winter - flapper valves in the vents. Without blowing from outside, the firecracker damper will open slightly enough to provide ventilation: in winter, due to the greater temperature difference, the air circulation between the home and the street is stronger. When blowing from outside, the damper will slam shut, but enough air will leak through the gap so that the apartment does not become stuffy.

Floor

The easiest way to insulate the floor before spring is to cover it with carpet or just carpets. Convection will move towards the walls and weaken. The carpet, if you do not make any “noise” and if necessary, move the furniture rather than move it, it is laid without fastening, floating.

About full-scale floor insulation.

Corners and openings

Each opening consists of several corners, so corners and openings are insulated in a similar way. Without repair, curtains in combination with a lambrequin are quite effective. Without a lambrequin there will be little use: the air behind the fabric will come out quite freely from above. The fabric should be chosen not so heavy as dense. The film works well: without particularly spoiling the look of the room, it can be pulled in the corners to the walls and attached behind the furniture with tape.

Radiators

It is advisable to place heat-insulating organic fiber mats (not mineral wool!) aluminized on both sides behind the radiators. Such a screen will attenuate the infrared radiation from the battery to the wall by more than 40 times. In a Khrushchev building with radiators in niches, thermal shielding is equivalent to covering the walls with plywood.

General conclusion

Knowing the mechanisms of heat transfer from the apartment to the outside and the design features of the building, you can quickly and inexpensively insulate yourself to complete comfort even in an old block house. First of all, windows should be insulated, starting from the slopes.

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Discussion:

Dmitry said:

I would not advise anyone to make large ones in an apartment or house. panoramic windows. Beautiful in summer, cold in winter. After all, glass is not a wall and there are not many ways to insulate it. Despite the fact that all the corners and doors in the apartment are insulated, and the space near the windows is insulated, the glass still blows cold. My wife washes them until they shine for the winter, we glue them with special paper, but we are still inclined to believe that such windows were made in vain.

Anastasia said:

With the onset of cold weather we always struggle with the windows; it blows very strongly. In addition, there is a constant draft. Previously, windows were sealed with moistened newspapers. Now we just cut the foam rubber and close the cracks in the windows, and seal the top with masking tape. It doesn't blow, we like it

Arkady said:

The windows are very weak point. Freezing is one problem. It's even worse if there is a draft. Even a very small draft can make the room temperature uncomfortable. It's easy to spot. You can explore with your hands the space around the windows and window sill. Any cracks found can be sealed with silicone.

Maria P. said:

Last winter was terrible - it blew all the holes. We walked around the house wrapped in 2-3 layers of clothing. We have now decided not to allow this to happen. I’ll show my husband the article and let him organize a warm, cozy winter for us.
Thank you for the detailed instructions, no need to look for other sources of information.

Klikoly said:

I want to tell you about my experience in insulating windows. Everyone knows the time of year when the heating hasn’t been turned on yet, and it’s already winter-like cold outside. The temperature in apartments at this time drops to 17-19 degrees (and this is in the best case). In order to somehow escape the cold, most housewives rush to lay insulation and seal the window frames. I also belonged to this majority for a long time. I have not yet tested the effectiveness of this action. I specifically measured the temperature before pasting, and then after. The difference turned out to be only 1 degree. Since then, I began to belong to that happy minority that does not fuss about window insulation. Although, for the sake of fairness, I must say that I did not carry out the ENTIRE range of measures to insulate the apartment described in the article. Maybe in vain. Perhaps this would have given a more significant result.