High-quality laminate allows you to create comfortable and environmentally friendly floors. But the desire to make such a floor often runs into a problem - low quality subfloors, especially in older houses.

If the floor is not level, a poor-quality base can negate all the impressive benefits of embossed wood fiber panels. Already worked out for today different ways leveling the floor under the laminate. But despite its apparent simplicity, this technology has its own nuances that are worth knowing.

Is it always necessary to level a laminate floor?

In construction, with rare exceptions, it is customary to operate on smooth surfaces. But if in other cases it is possible to neglect perfection, then when it comes to the problem of leveling the floor under laminate flooring, you should still strive for the ideal indicator.

The reason for this approach lies in physical properties the laminate itself. It is these properties that force builders to level the floor as best as possible. Otherwise, an uneven floor will cause deformation of the laminate panels, poor adhesion between them, cracks, and divergence of seams. As a result, under flooring moisture will begin to enter with all the negative consequences.

The only thing a specialist can afford when installing a floor under a laminate is minor irregularities.

For good quality, the difference in floor height is 1 linear meter. base should not exceed 2.5 mm.

With such results, it is recommended to carry out light leveling of the base. If frequent bulges/depressions are observed, if the height differences in certain areas are significant, the leveling will have to be done more carefully. But if the difference in heights per unit area is no more than 1.5 mm, you can limit yourself to a simple substrate.

Having thus determined the state of the “relief” of the base, you can choose the leveling method. If you plan to raise the floor level to a height of up to 5 cm, it is recommended to screed with cement mortar. If the floor is even higher (for example, with large differences in height), then a lighter option is desirable. For example, you can use a dry screed made of gypsum fiber board panels or use the method of laying plywood sheets on joists.

Materials and tools for leveling the floor

Whatever methods are used for leveling, it is worth stocking up on the following materials and tools:

• building level;
• rule;
• beams for joists;
• cement mortar;
• plywood sheets;
• scraping machine;
• electric drill;
• hammer;
• wood hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• screws, nails.

Concrete base leveling technology

Tools for leveling floors under laminate: hammer, ruler, logs, level, pliers, tape measure, brush.

Today, most laminate flooring bases are made of concrete. But rarely are they without defects. Possible cracks, potholes, chips, sinkholes, the presence of various sagging or peeling of the mortar on concrete surfaces lead to differences in heights on the plane, which should be eliminated.

Experts offer the 2 most common methods for leveling concrete bases under laminate. Method 1 involves using cement screed, The second is based on the use of a self-leveling mixture.

Before use cement mortar All remnants of the previous floor must be removed from the surface of the concrete base. Sludges of solution are removed with a pick or hammer drill, while small ones can be left. If there are stains of oil or paint on the base, they should be removed with a solvent or burned out with a torch. Finally, the concrete is treated with liquid soil.

Then along all the walls of the room, in their lower part, using a level, mark the upper edge of the subfloor. Beacon slats are placed along the marked floor level. There is no method for fixing them special significance, but most often the slats are fixed with arbitrary slides of mortar. The width of each strip between the slats should not be greater than the length of the rule.

As for the cement-sand mixture, then in in this case it is necessary to adhere to the following proportion - 25% cement M-400 to 75% quartz sand, pre-screened. It is worth noting that when using this technology, the solution should be quite thick, which will prevent it from spreading prematurely.

Immediately after preparing the solution, it should be poured between the exposed beacons. Using the rule, the level of the solution is leveled to the level of the beacon slats. After pouring the solution, each strip must be rolled with a special spiked roller, which removes unwanted air bubbles.

After the solution has set and hardened, the beacon slats are removed. The grooves formed in their place are filled with solution.

But even after the solution has hardened externally, the readiness of the floor for laminate cannot yet be considered final. It must be borne in mind that the screed, especially a fairly thick one, requires a long time (up to 3-4 weeks) to harden so much that you can safely walk on it. During this entire period, it must be kept covered with plastic wrap, regularly (2 times a day) moistening its surface.

Another option for preparing a flat floor is covering it with a self-leveling mixture. This method is fast and high quality execution. But all this can be achieved if only the process is organized correctly.

First, as in the case of screed, it is necessary to clean the room in which the floor will be prepared for laminate flooring. Sludges of mortar, debris, dirt are removed, bumps are knocked down, cracks and potholes are filled with putty. Finally, the surface is treated with deep penetration primer.

Next comes the preparation of the self-leveling mixture. The dry powder is diluted with water according to the attached instructions and mixed thoroughly until smooth. But you can deviate somewhat from the instructions for preparing the mixture by determining the proportions of dry powder and water experimentally. This is allowed if the worker has his own experience in laying floors, taking into account, in particular, the fact that preparatory layers of different thicknesses require self-leveling mixtures of different densities.

After the mixture is prepared for pouring, it is carefully applied to the base of the future floor. Moreover, this should be done at the highest point of the leveled surface, from where the solution will spread throughout the room. Speed ​​up this process You can use a spatula.

To ensure the highest quality leveling of the solution, good surface smoothness and removal of unwanted air bubbles from the mixture, the spread mass is rolled with a spiked roller. Then the resulting floor is left to settle for several days. After this, you can lay laminate panels on it.

This method using a self-leveling mixture is suitable not only for concrete, but also for wooden bases. In the second case, preparing the base for pouring the mixture mainly consists of securing loose boards, removing paint residues and protruding nails, after which the fixed base is impregnated with waterproof primer.

Leveling the wooden base

Often it is necessary to level a wooden floor, on which laminate will later be laid. Here you need to pay attention to the degree of wear of individual floorboards. The method of alignment will depend on this. The most common methods in repair and construction practice are two methods: scraping subfloor boards and leveling the floor using plywood sheets.

Sanding is used in cases where the master is dealing with a flat floor in good condition. technical condition. It usually eliminates minor defects. For this, 2 types of tools are used - a manual scraper or a special scraping machine.

In the 2nd case, the process will be quite fast and not labor-intensive. You just need to drive all possible nails and screws into the wooden floor with a hammer in advance, otherwise you can damage the blades of the machine. After the operation of such a mechanism, the floor usually becomes smooth and quite ready for laying laminate.

To the 2nd leveling method - plywood or chipboard sheets- used in cases where the floor is very uneven, but there are no plans to disassemble it. To do this, first carefully secure the loose floorboards with self-tapping screws, and if necessary, replace individual boards. And only then pre-cut sheets of plywood or chipboards are laid on the floor.

Particular attention should be paid to ensuring that there is a gap of several millimeters between the sheets being laid. This is necessary to prevent deformation of the sheets during their possible expansion or swelling under the influence of moisture.

Finally, all sheets are carefully attached to the bottom boards with countersunk screws. After this, you can begin laying the laminate.

Installation of underlay for laminate flooring

Speaking about leveling floors under laminate, we should also mention the substrate, without which this process in some cases will be unfinished. Typically, a substrate is used when the difference in height of the base surface is small and the worker is faced with a problem - it is impossible to lay the laminate on the base without preparation, but there is no need to fully level it.

For this purpose, both synthetic substrates and materials based on natural components are used. Among synthetic ones, polyethylene substrates are most often used; among the most popular natural substrates, cork or cork-bitumen ones are used.

It should be noted that in many cases these components are not cheap building materials. But they guarantee excellent quality and speed of work. And this, combined with the skill of the performer, is the key to a beautiful, comfortable and durable floor.

Laying laminate flooring in residential premises is not a difficult task that even a beginner can handle home handyman with a minimum set of tools. However, if you do not use the recommendations of specialists, the floor covering will begin to sag and creak over time. The reason for this is unevenness on the base floor. Therefore, a reasonable question arises: how to level the floor under the laminate with your own hands so that it lasts a long time and does not creak?

There are several ways to make a flat base for laminate flooring, depending on the type of surface, degree of wear and financial capabilities.

Basic requirements for the surface of the base floor

The specificity of the laminate is high requirements to the surface on which it will be laid. Therefore, it is very important to carefully level the base floor before laying laminate flooring. To check, we need a long building level or rule and a regular level.

The maximum difference in height of the prepared base should not exceed one millimeter per 20 square centimeters of surface or two millimeters per 2 square meters.

If not completed preparatory stage, but simply lay the underlay and lay the laminate, then soon the beautiful floors will no longer please you. There may be several reasons for this:

• Due to unevenness, the laminate will begin to sag under the weight of a person or interior items;
• The panel locks will not be able to fully cope with their task, which leads to the appearance of cracks;
• Due to the relief, moisture will penetrate into the joints of the panels, which will lead to swelling of the laminate and complete deformation of the surface.

This is why it is so important to level the floor under the laminate and follow the installation rules.

Leveling a concrete floor

In new apartments and houses, most often the concrete subfloor is unsuitable for direct installation of laminate flooring. And in old houses, the coating has served for several decades, which led to the destruction of the load-bearing layer.

Therefore, before you begin laying a new floor covering, you need to decide how to level the concrete floor. You can do this with your own hands, you just need to figure out which method is best to use to create an ideal and durable plane.

Grinding

Leveling the base floor by sanding is used under the following conditions:

1. When it is not possible to use self-leveling floors or self-leveling mixtures;
2. For minor damage and surface differences not exceeding 4 mm.

To process large spaces, it is better to use a special grinder. If the room area is small, then you can use a large one sandpaper(40, 60 or 80 grit) attached to a wooden or plastic block.

After sanding, the floor must be thoroughly cleaned of dust. This is best done with an industrial vacuum cleaner.

Be careful household vacuum cleaner may not withstand such a load and burn out.

Apply 2-3 coats of primer to a clean base floor, which strengthens the surface and forms a durable top layer.

If grinding does not help, and the height differences are too large, then leveling mixtures are indispensable.

Partial leveling with repair mixtures

This method is suitable for a surface that does not involve multi-level filling of the floor. For example, if there is a slight deviation from the requirements or there are minor defects in the top layer that cannot be eliminated by sanding. Self-leveling repair mixtures are excellent for eliminating these shortcomings.

As of today construction markets There is a wide range of solutions for leveling floors. Each package is supplied with instructions, which detail what surfaces they are best used for and how to use them. However, so that everyone can independently create the ideal surface for laminate, we will describe in detail how and with which repair mixtures it is better to work.

Self-leveling self-leveling floors

Self-leveling floors are a type of concrete base, for the creation of which so-called self-leveling mixtures are used. This is an expensive, but very effective way to eliminate defects in the base floor. The poured mixture self-levels, providing a perfectly flat surface suitable for installing laminate flooring.

According to their intended purpose, mixtures are divided into three types:

1. Self-leveling mixture for rough leveling. Using this composition, you can eliminate unevenness from 1 to 6 centimeters.
2. Mixtures for eliminating large cracks and potholes. This solution is used only in certain areas. Due to the adhesive content, it easily connects to the rough surface and has high strength.
3. Finishing mixture for final leveling of the surface. Used to eliminate small irregularities from 1 to 5 mm. This layer serves as the basis for laying the laminate.

Based on their composition, self-leveling floors are classified into three types:

1. Mixtures with epoxy or polyurethane resin as a binder. Provides a very durable and dust-free surface. Often used for surfaces with heavy loads (commercial or industrial premises).
2. Cement-based mixtures. The filling layer can reach up to 5 centimeters.
3. Mixtures containing gypsum. Not recommended for use in rooms with high humidity.

Gypsum and cement self-leveling floors are used in residential premises. The choice of mixture depends on the humidity of the room and the required thickness of the coating.

There are thin and thick self-leveling floors. The combination of such solutions allows for surface leveling in a wide range of thicknesses: from 1 to 60 mm.

Before pouring you must:

1. Remove anything that could weaken adhesion: dust, oil or glue stains, etc.
2. If there are cracks on the surface, they should be covered with putty;
3. Prime the floor and let dry for 3 hours.

After this, you can fill the prepared self-leveling mixture. To prepare the solution you should:

1. Pour 5-6 liters of clean water into a 50 liter container;
2. Fill a 25 kg bag of mixture;
3. Place for 3-4 minutes until the consistency of liquid sour cream is achieved, so that there are no lumps left;
4. Leave for 5 minutes and stir again. The solution is ready for pouring.

Attention! For exact proportions and instructions for preparing the solution, see the packaging of the dry mixture used.

Filling is done in portions from the far corner of the room towards the exit. A rule is applied for leveling. While the solution is liquid, you need to go over it with a needle roller to remove air bubbles.

Remember! Self-leveling floors dry very quickly, so large areas The solution should be prepared in small quantities and used immediately.

After this, the self-leveling floor is left to harden. The room should be free of drafts and direct sun rays. It will be possible to walk on the floor after 5-6 hours, but it is recommended to lay the laminate no earlier than 6 days after pouring. If you start laying the flooring earlier, the moisture that has not completely evaporated can lead to its swelling and damage.

Self-leveling mixtures have many advantages, among others building materials used to create base floors:

• They are easy to apply to the surface. Even a person without professional training can cope with leveling;
• The coating hardens quickly, does not crumble or deform. You can move along it in 5-6 hours;
• The floor surface after leveling is perfectly flat and smooth.

Based on the characteristics of the mixtures, we can say that this great way for preparing floors for laminate flooring. Self-leveling floors provide an ideal plane that will not deform the laminate for many years.

Concrete screed

Screed is another way to level a concrete floor before laying laminate flooring. Essentially, a screed is a base floor layer that is applied to concrete floors or subfloor. It is made on the basis of a cement-sand mixture and is most often used to eliminate large differences that cannot be corrected using self-leveling solutions.

For screed, you can buy ready-made dry mixtures or make the mixture yourself based on the proportions of 1 part cement to 3 parts sand.

Attention! The proportions for preparing the mixture yourself depend on the brand of cement and the grain size of the sand.

The resulting mixture is poured with water and stirred to the consistency of thick sour cream.

Bookmark ready solution produced as follows:

• A thick polyethylene film is laid on the floor so that the edges overlap the walls just above the planned level of the screed;
• Using a level, marks are placed between the wall and the floor;
• Rack beacons are attached to the base of the marks. These will be guides for further filling;
• Concrete is poured between the slats and, using the rule, the solution is stretched along the guides;
• 2-3 hours after pouring, the surface must be wiped down;

If necessary, you can re-grout every other day. Complete drying of concrete occurs after 30 days. During this period, surfaces should be regularly wetted with water to avoid cracking. At high temperature air, concrete after moistening must be covered with polyethylene.

This method is quite economical, but has several negative aspects:

• Labor intensity of the process;
• Takes a long time to dry;
• If the proportions are not followed correctly, it can crumble and crack.

Dry screed

The dry screed technique involves leveling the floor by installing a frame made of wooden beams- beacons on which sheets of plywood, fiberboard or gypsum fiber board are attached. The space inside is filled with a special backfill.

The work order is as follows:

• The wooden or concrete base is well dried so that excess moisture does not get into the dry backfill.
• A thick film is spread on the rough surface to increase the waterproofing of the backfill;
• By using building level marks of the planned floor are marked on the walls;
• Next, a structure is constructed that will serve as a fastening for the covering slabs and at the same time as guides for backfilling. To do this, the bars are placed parallel to each other at an equal distance throughout the room and secured with dowels or plaster to the base;
• The dry mixture is poured evenly and leveled according to the installed guides;
• Sheets of the selected material are laid on top of the structure and secured to the bars with wood screws. The second layer of sheets is laid so that the joints do not coincide with the first.

Most often, expanded clay with different sizes granules

After all work has been completed, it is necessary to prime the surface with a special solution.

This coating has many advantages:

1. Not required long time to dry the surface;
2. No splashes, smudges, etc. pollution;
3. Low load on the floors of premises (especially important for old private houses);
4. Good heat and sound insulation;
5. Low cost of materials and labor.

But still, despite all the advantages, there is one drawback: such floors should not be installed in rooms with high humidity. Because natural materials upon contact with moisture they tend to deform.

This video will help you better decide how to level a concrete floor with your own hands.

Leveling a wooden floor

Wooden floors are mainly typical for private homes. Unlike concrete ones, their leveling requires less effort and materials.

If you plan to install laminate flooring on an old wooden surface, then you should prepare the base as thoroughly as possible. It is necessary to replace rotten and broken planks, and put those that have fallen out in place and secure them with self-tapping screws so that they do not dangle.

• Fill gaps, seams and fallen areas with wood putty;
• If there are slight fluctuations in the surface level, carry out sanding work using a grinding machine (it will remove all bumps and bulges);
• Lay sheets of plywood or gypsum fiber board 16-20mm thick in two layers on the old floor, so that the joints of the sheets do not coincide.

Below in the video you can see how to level old wooden floors and lay laminate on them.

Alignment wooden floors under laminate in a new house has a different technique. To create a base floor wooden floors filled with heat and sound insulating material. For example, mineral wool. The logs are first covered with a vapor barrier membrane. Then beacon bars are installed at the level, which should provide an ideal horizontal surface.

The final part of preparing the base floor is laying sheets of gypsum fiber board, OSB or plywood. It is advisable to do this in two layers with overlapping joints, where temperature gaps should be left. Such a base will be able to withstand heavy loads and last a long time without deformation.

If everything is done correctly and carefully, then there will be no need to lay a substrate under the laminate. The surface will be perfectly flat, without depressions or bulges. The main thing is not to forget to clean it of dust, shavings and other debris so that the laminate does not begin to creak over time.

However, even on a perfectly flat base, we still recommend using a substrate, at least an inexpensive and thin one. It will add a shock-absorbing effect, which will have a positive effect on the tactile perception of the floor, will preserve the locks of the laminate for a long time and will reduce the load on a person’s joints when walking.

Both in an old and in a new house, you can level the floor under the laminate using the dry screed method, which was described above.

By using any of the methods proposed above, you can achieve on your own an ideal and durable surface on which you can safely lay any floor covering. Now you know how to level the floor for laying laminate.

Many consumers are interested in how to level a laminate floor so that it meets the requirements of flooring material manufacturers. The base to be leveled varies, so there is no clear answer. Read on to learn how to best prepare various surfaces under the subsequent laminate flooring.

What are the main requirements for the mounting surface?

Laminate is a piece of plates that are assembled into a continuous floor surface thanks to locking connections. The material is final, that is, it is not subject to further finishing. The peculiarity of the plates is their rigidity - they cannot take the shape of the base. If the base surface is not smooth enough, the structure of the material is subject to increased load, which leads to premature wear and mechanical damage to the laminate during operation.

Irregularities in the base also affect the quality of the connection of the locks. The seams between the plates laid on uneven areas of the floor will diverge, and if there is significant curvature, the connecting devices will break. Hence the main requirement for the mounting surface - evenness . The permissible curvature of the floor base should not exceed 2 mm per linear meter in all areas of the room.

The laminate is laid on the substrate in a floating manner. This means that the floor covering is not rigidly fixed to the base, while there remains a deformation gap from the walls along the perimeter of the assembled layer. This circumstance explains another requirement for the base - horizontality. On an inclined surface, the coating will gradually “slide” towards the lower wall and rest against the obstacle, which will lead to the impossibility of thermal deformation of the plates and their gradual destruction.

Besides, mounting surface must be strong and dry (the laminate delaminates and becomes unusable when high humidity). These foundation requirements dictate the choice possible ways preparing the working surface for installation of this flooring material. Typically, rough bases for leveling under laminate are:

• old concrete (cement-sand screeds);
• floor slabs (in apartments and some private houses);
• wooden flooring along the joists.

Screeds and floor slabs are of a similar nature, so the methods for their preparation are often identical. Let's consider what technologies are applicable to level them.

Screed from “wet” cement-sand mixtures - how to create?

Self-prepared cement-sand material or a solution of ready-packed mixtures (levelers) can be used as a material for leveling surfaces. Their method of application is approximately the same. It is more financially profitable to prepare the solution yourself, but it is inconvenient to do this in apartments of multi-storey buildings, where it is preferable to use packaged mixtures. Levelers are easier to lift to floors and mix the working solution (use a regular construction mixer or an appropriate drill attachment).

These materials are used for the manufacture of screeds with a curvature of the base relative to the horizontal from 1 to 8 cm. In order for the product to be manufactured to meet the requirements, before pouring the solution, guides (beacons) located in the same horizontal plane are installed, and after partial setting of the mixture, grinding is carried out, leveling out minor irregularities . The technology for installing screeds from these materials involves the following steps.

1. 1. Preparation of the base surface, including cleaning of debris and dust, removal of exfoliated material.
2. 2. Waterproofing the base, which consists of covering the base surface with dense polyethylene film or roll waterproofing materials.
3. 3. Aligning the guides at the level of the intended surface of the floor base.
4. 4. Filling the solution between the beacons and leveling it according to the level of the installed guides.
5. 5. Removing the beacons (one day after pouring), filling the resulting depressions and grinding the entire surface.

It is intended for a dry base, so you need to wait until the “wet” screed dries. It is not necessary to wait 26-28 days for the cement to fully mature (crystallize), since the load on the prepared base is not critical.

Leveling with semi-dry solutions - what are the advantages?

Nowadays, semi-dry mixtures are increasingly used for screeding. Their difference from classical solutions is their low percentage solvent and the use of plasticizers that reduce the surface tension of water, which makes it easier to mix the components of the semi-dry solution and their better wetting.

The prepared mixture has a crumbly consistency and does not release free moisture. Thanks to this feature of the solution, there is no need for waterproofing measures. The second advantage is the almost unlimited thickness of the screed, which makes it possible to reduce the plane of the floors of all rooms to one horizontal level with significant initial differences in the levels of the floor slabs (typical for apartments in multi-storey buildings old building). Third positive feature– ease of creating a flat surface that meets the requirements for laminate flooring.

How to level a laminate floor using semi-dry mixtures? The technology is simple and includes the following sequence of actions.

1. 1. Preparing the base (the same as described for a regular screed).
2. 2. Installation of beacons.
3. 3. Preparation of the mixture (usually a special mixer is used, but a regular concrete mixer can also be used).
4. 4. Layer-by-layer filling and tamping of semi-dry mortar so that the material ends up slightly higher than the guides.
5. 5. Next, as a rule, remove the excess layer of the mixture that rises above the guides, and smooth the surface.

Semi-dry screed is much stronger than classic screed, does not shrink, and dries faster. Already on the 3-4th day at room temperature and above it is possible to lay the finishing floor covering. When leveling floors with sand-cement screeds of any type, it is necessary to install a damper tape around the perimeter of the walls, which would compensate for linear deformations of the base of the floor when the temperature changes.

Self-leveling materials - if there is curvature

If the floor slabs or once manufactured concrete screed have a slight curvature in the horizontal projection (up to 3 cm), it is more advisable to use special leveling mixtures, which, in the process of pouring them, independently form a flat horizontal surface. These are so-called self-leveling solutions, although this material is often called self-leveling floors.

Dry ready-made mixtures are sold packaged in paper bags of 20 and 25 kilograms and involve preparing the working material by dissolving it in water and mixing with a construction mixer. The solution prepared according to the manufacturer’s recommendations (indicated on the packaging) is poured onto concrete base, spread with a notched trowel and then rolled with a needle roller. Last operation necessary to remove air bubbles that reduce the strength of the material.

The use of self-leveling materials, despite their comparative high cost, is justified when leveling slight curvature of the base surface. After pouring, the solution quickly sets (1-2 hours) and dries (a day or two), which significantly reduces forced technological interruptions in repair work.

Dry methods for preparing the base - 2 options

These include the flooring of various slabs on installed joists and dry screed using technology Knauf. Both methods ensure the creation of a base surface that meets the requirements for subsequent laying of the laminate without the need to take a break to dry the material used. The first method involves installing wooden blocks with a certain pitch, depending on the nature and thickness of the material laid on top. The following are used as leveling boards: OSB, plywood, chipboard.

They prefer to use it under laminate OSB boards, meeting the requirements for surface quality in all respects, more affordable in terms of material costs and the most convenient to use. After installation, this material does not require additional processing, is resistant to microorganisms (rotting, mold) and durable. If it is necessary to insulate the floor between the joists, lay thermal insulation material. There will be no difficulties with laying pipe communications (sewage, water supply, heating).

A dry screed is a surface consisting of gypsum fiber boards fastened together, laid on a leveled bedding made of fine expanded clay. This solves two problems at once: creating a durable surface and insulating it (soundproofing). Installation is done as follows:

1. 1. Removable metal guides are installed in accordance with the horizontal level.
2. 2. In the intervals between the exposed plates, fill in expanded clay, lightly compact it and level the bedding according to the level of the beacons.
3. 3. We take out the guides and fill in the resulting voids in accordance with the total area.
4. 4. We lay special gypsum fiber boards equipped with interlocking joints on the formed bedding.
5. 5. We connect the finished fragments to each other using locks.
6. 6. Having covered the entire intended area with slabs, we additionally fix the seams with self-tapping screws.

As a result, a durable, smooth and insulated surface is quickly formed, suitable for laying laminate or other flooring. The disadvantage of dry screed is its lack of moisture resistance and comparative high cost.

Preparing a wooden floor for laying laminate flooring

The floor surface formed by boards installed along joists is not always suitable for laying laminate flooring even after preparation. In order not to waste effort and money on useless activities, it is immediately necessary to find out the state of the starting wooden surface. To do this, take a spirit level () and a rule 2 m or more long. If significant curvature (depressions, convexities) or a large deviation from the horizontal plane is detected, it is better to abandon the idea of ​​leveling the board surface as unpromising.

When the surface is generally flat and horizontal, and the boards are strong and not rotten (single problematic floorboards can be replaced), such a wooden floor is suitable for preparing it for the subsequent laying of laminate flooring. How to level a wooden floor under a laminate so that it meets the requirements? There are two ways:

• grinding (scraping) of the surface to achieve compliance with the required parameters;
• leveling the floor by laying hard slabs of the same plywood or OSB over the surface.

The first method is very labor-intensive, but can be much cheaper if you carry out the scraping yourself, using a handy tool (hand scraper, plane). There is an option to rent a sanding machine. In this case, the floor will be leveled perfectly; the process will not take much time and effort, but you will have to pay for equipment rental. Leveling with boards is done quickly (cutting, laying, fixing to boards with self-tapping screws), but with the cost of purchasing them. After laying OSB or plywood, the surface is not ideal, but with allowances for the use of a thicker substrate, it is generally suitable.

Increasingly, as flooring in apartments, public spaces and offices use modern material– laminate. The reason for the unique popularity of this flooring is its remarkable appearance, and the ability to tight deadlines change the appearance of the room. In addition, the cost of laminate, even the most expensive, is significantly lower than the cost of simple natural parquet.

The ideal appearance of a laminate floor is given by its perfectly flat base. Only in this case do we get a beautiful, even space, without visible seams or other defects. Therefore, the most important stage of laying flooring is processing its base, that is, leveling. If you notice that your floor, which may be concrete or wood, is uneven, then most likely you are already asking yourself the question of how level the floor under the laminate and how to do it yourself. We will start in order, so follow the sections of the article carefully.

Removing the worn out old floor exposes the concrete base. It is on it that leveling work is carried out. The choice of technology for leveling is made based on an assessment concrete covering. At the same time, the volume of probable expenses and labor costs is assessed. Now we will look at what methods exist for leveling a floor under a laminate. Let's start with how we level the concrete floor.

Grinding
A concrete floor made professionally in its time receives a minimal amount of damage, mainly damage to the surface layer. Small differences and irregularities are eliminated by grinding. In spacious rooms, leveling the concrete floor under the laminate is done using a special grinder. In small rooms, the desired effect can be achieved using sanding attachment to the drill. After grinding, the concrete base is cleaned of dust particles.

Self-leveling mixtures
Irregularities up to 5 millimeters can be quickly eliminated by filling them with a self-leveling mass. Mixtures for these purposes are sold at specialized retail outlets. The instructions on the packaging indicate in what proportion the bulk mass should be diluted with water and how to fill it. Leveling the floor under the laminate using this method occurs quite quickly.
The concrete surface must first be primed. We determine the height to which the filling is made using a laser or other device, and make marks on the walls with a pencil. The height of the floor level is marked using beacons.
A homogeneous mass mixed with water should be applied in accordance with the rules:

• The mass is prepared in small doses in order to have time to apply it before hardening begins;
• The mixture is poured into a strip and immediately leveled with a notched trowel. The next portion of the mixture is poured out, continuing the started strip, or another strip is started next to it;
• The time required for complete hardening of the self-leveling mixture, according to the technology, ranges from three days. The mass should dry in natural conditions, in the absence of drafts and heating.

Portland cement and sand screed
If you are horrified when you look at an old concrete surface, then you will have to hide the potholes and cracks with a regular screed. The mixture for a high-quality screed can be easily made independently, in accordance with the proportion: for one measure of Portland cement - three measures of water and sand. But it’s easier to purchase a ready-made dry mixture and add the proportion of water specified by the manufacturer to it.
We mark the level of the future surface of the screed on the walls using a laser device. We place slats along the surface that will serve as beacons when applying the cement mass. We spread the solution between these guide rails and level it by moving the transverse rail or rule along the guides. The slats are removed after a day, and the remaining traces are masked with the same solution.
According to technological requirements, the final hardening of the cement screed occurs after 28 days. All this time, the cement-sand surface is moistened, covered with plastic film, and drafts are not allowed.

Dry screed - leveling the floor under the laminate with plywood
Sold for dry screed installation special compounds, usually granular. A structure made of wooden beams is created on the floor space. We cover the concrete surface of the base with a waterproofing layer. The space between the beams (joists) is filled with granular backfill. On top of the joists we lay one, or preferably two, layers of chipboard, gypsum board, plasterboard or plywood.
It is best to use sheets of plywood, about 10-12 millimeters thick, to create the surface layer. This method of floor leveling can be used in dry rooms on weak floors, when it is not recommended to increase the load on concrete slabs.

Leveling a wooden floor

Laminate flooring can be laid not only on concrete, but also on any other base, including an old wooden floor. It is possible to level a wooden floor under a laminate and use it as a base if the wood is strong enough, dry, and not corroded by mold and grinders. For this procedure it is customary to use the following methods:

• Sanding (scraping) – when using special tools (sanding or sanding machine) the damaged layer of wood is removed, and at the same time surface defects are removed;
• Fastening the plywood flooring is done directly to the surface of the boards, if the surface vibration is about 5 millimeters;
• Dry screed - the procedure is carried out similarly to that described for a concrete floor. Instead of waterproofing material, a vapor barrier material is laid under the granules.
• Putty - correction of unevenness with a mixture made of PVA and fine sawdust. The mass is applied to the damaged wood surface and leveled with a spatula. Plywood sheets are placed on top of the dried putty layer.

Leveling a wooden floor under laminate takes less time than leveling a concrete subfloor.

Leveling underlay for laminate flooring

According to the technology, a layer of substrate should be placed between the base and the laminate plates. This procedure has several goals, including participation in leveling activities. Manufacturers make the substrate from various kinds materials. The following types are suitable for us:

• Polyethylene foam backing – sold in the form roll material, thickness from 0.8 to 6 millimeters. The most common option is a thickness of 2 millimeters.
• Extruded polystyrene foam - sheets with a thickness of 3 to 5 millimeters. It is much stronger than polyethylene foam.
• Cork material is available in the form of sheets. It can only be laid in dry rooms. Pure cork substrate, rubber-cork and bitumen-cork substrate are produced. This is the most expensive option for leveling the base, providing better sound insulation.

In a separate article, we have already looked at what types of substrates there are and which ones are best to use when.

Laying laminate

Leveling the floor and laying the laminate are two sequential processes. On a well-prepared base, installation of laminate sheets is carried out very quickly. The most common method of joining individual laminate sheets into a single sheet is interlocking.
Along the edge of each plate of this flooring, grooves are initially made that connect into a lock. Laying the laminate and connecting individual fragments to each other is done as follows:

• The first plate is placed in the far right corner from the entrance to the room. A gap of 8 millimeters is left from the wall. From the end of this plate, the next plate is connected to the groove. Then the operation is repeated with the remaining plates to the opposite wall.
• The next row is laid out with an offset. If the first one started with a whole plate, the second one starts with half of it. The second row is assembled similarly to the first. Then the solid strip of the second row is connected to the first row.
• Subsequent strips are assembled and connected according to the described scheme, alternating row offsets.

The laminate flooring is pressed to the base using a plinth.

Do not forget - if you want the laminate floor to be ideal and create a special image for the room, maximum effort should be directed to leveling work on its base.

An immaculately leveled subfloor plane is the main condition for many years of impeccable service and the aesthetic appeal of the laminate laid on top of it. Those who want to know how to level a laminate floor can receive several equally correct, technically sound answers. It all depends on the type of base and the preferred floor layout. Choice optimal technology in turn, is focused on the size of the budget, the limits of time consumption and labor costs.

Leveling is a mandatory preliminary stage of the full process of laying laminate flooring. If there are even minor defects on the base surface, the locks will become loose due to unevenly distributed load, annoying squeaking will become a concern, and over time the panel may crack. In order to prevent the consequences, they make a screed of a concrete or wooden base, on which laminate is most often laid.

Methods for leveling a concrete base

A concrete subfloor is often a sad confirmation of a poorly executed cement screed or slab by builders, flat surface which is the ceiling of the room located below. Fundamentally, the choice of technology for leveling a cement base is focused on the condition of the base surface, which determines the amount of labor costs and the amount of financial costs.

If the leveling was done professionally, but managed to last a couple of decades, the destruction of the upper cement layer of the intensively loaded floor plane still occurred.

Grinding as the simplest leveling method

Minor differences in surface level can be eliminated by grinding. To process a large room, you can order the services of workers from a repair organization who perform this type alignment using specific grinding machines. You can simply rent equipment from the same organization. It is enough to bring a screed that is not too damaged in a small nursery or in a home office to the required performance by sanding it with sandpaper.

The polished surface is first coated with a primer that forms strong crystalline compounds in top layer bases. However, sanding work is often completed by pouring a self-leveling mixture.

Pouring self-leveling mixture

A not too cheap, but quite efficient method is used to level a cement floor with relief differences of up to 0.5 cm.

• If multi-stage pouring of a self-leveling screed is not planned, it is not necessary to mark the level and set beacons. But to indicate the height of the screed, it is recommended to determine the highest point of the floor using a laser device or level gauge and make marks on the walls up to which the mixture will need to be poured.
• Before pouring, the base surface is primed and a layer of waterproofing is applied to it.
• The self-leveling mixture, prepared in strict accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, is poured into a small strip and leveled with a spatula.

Please note. It is better to prepare the mixture in small portions, since 15 minutes after preparation it loses its plasticity and begins to harden. Batch preparation and sequential processing of areas will eliminate the possibility of wasted material consumption.

After applying the screed to the entire surface of the base floor, you should take a technological break, giving it time to completely cure. It is 3 or more days. Polymerization of the mixture must take place without drafts or temperature fluctuations; heating devices and forced ventilation devices must not be turned on.

Traditional screed made of sand and cement

A cement-sand mixture for leveling is used if significant differences are detected. To do this, use factory-made dry compounds or a homemade mixture of 1 part cement, 3 equal parts sand and water, the amount of which allows you to obtain a consistency similar to thick sour cream.

• Level marks are placed on the walls, determined by a laser device or a simple level gauge.
• Lighthouse guide rails are installed on a clean, dry floor.
• The screed is placed between the guides, then the solution is leveled using a rule or a special transverse lath.
• After a couple of hours, the surface is additionally rubbed with a wooden trowel.
• A day later, the lighthouse slats are dismantled and the remaining holes are sealed with a solution similar to the screed, flush with the leveled surface.

The cement-sand leveling layer will gain maximum strength only 28 days after completion of the work. During this period, the screed must be moistened twice a day, protected from drafts and covered with polyethylene. However, the lengthy, labor-intensive process is relatively inexpensive.

The main advantages of cement-sand screed are the porosity of the structure, which provides excellent sound and heat insulation, minimal shrinkage due to the limited amount of water and the availability of manufacturing materials. And how to make such a screed with your own hands and technologically correctly, we will tell you in the material:.

Laminate can be laid on a screed if its humidity is not higher than the limit of 5%. If the humidity does not meet these conditions, lay a layer of waterproofing and lay a cork backing.

Dry screed with gypsum plasterboard, plasterboard sheets, chipboard, plywood

To level a cement floor using the dry screed method, logs are installed, that is, a structure is constructed from timber to which gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards and similar material are attached:

• Markers of the planned floor level are set.
• A waterproofing layer is laid on the rough surface.
• A floor system is being constructed on joists; the rules for its installation are described in the corresponding article.
• The logs, pre-aligned horizontally by placing wood chips and trimming off the excess, are attached to the base floor with dowels or anchors.
• One or several layers of material selected for the installation of a dry screed are laid on top of the logs. The sheets and panels are fastened with self-tapping screws.

Please note. Factory-ready systems with control devices will help simplify and speed up the construction of floors on joists.

The technology is applicable if the height of the ceilings allows it to be reduced by 10 cm or more. The advantage of the technology is the ability to lay laminate flooring immediately after completion of the work.

Leveling a wood floor

A wooden floor with noticeable defects and gaps must be disassembled, damaged elements replaced, loose boards firmly nailed, driving the fastener heads deeply into the material. After which you can:

• build a dry screed along the joists by analogy with the method described above, using a vapor barrier material instead of a waterproofing layer;
• lay plywood, gypsum plasterboard, plasterboard sheets directly on the wooden floor;
• sand the wooden floor.

How to level a floor with plywood is described on our website:. Step by step instructions performance of work.

Information about floor leveling methods will help you decide on the priority screed technology. The owner himself is free to decide what is more profitable for him: cutting costs, minimizing labor costs or increasing the pace of repairs. Knowing the advantages of each leveling method guarantees a competent choice of the most appropriate option.