Parquet flooring has been used for a long time. During this time, he managed to establish himself as a practical and durable material. In addition, in order to master the technology of its installation, you do not need to have special knowledge. In the production of parquet boards, wood is used only natural origin, which ensures impeccable quality and durability of the coating. Consider all the features of the choice and method of laying parquet in more detail.

There are two mounting methods. To make the right choice, you need to focus on the desired result.

1. With the help of a certain laying direction, you can visually increase the size of the room. To do this, the boards should be placed diagonally. The material is placed at an angle of 45°. But this method also has a drawback - an overrun of the material, which will be 10-12%.
2. If it is necessary to save on the consumption of boards, then the second option should be preferred, which involves placing parallel to the wall. Laying is carried out in the direction of the light flux.

Parquet board. A photo:

Determine the required amount of material

One of the primary actions when installing a parquet board is the calculation of the material.

1. First, the width and length of the room are determined. It is also necessary to know the dimensions of the board, for each manufacturer they may differ.
2. The installation method is also taken into account. With direct placement, a material margin of 5% should be provided, with a diagonal arrangement - 10%.
3. Further, based on the parameters of the room and the size of the board, you need to perform calculations.
4. Initially, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is measured.
5. Then the required percentage is added to the resulting indicator.
6. The final result is divided by the footage of one package.
7. If the number turns out to be a fraction, it must be rounded up.
8. You can also contact the seller, who will help calculate the required number of boards.

Preparatory stage

Installation of a parquet board is carried out on a flat base. The difference per 1 m 2 should not exceed 2 mm. If the boards are laid on an uneven floor, after a certain period of time they will fall out of the locks and become unusable.

You can level the surface in two ways:

• using plywood;
• with cement screed.

For laying parquet flooring, use only flat plywood. For this purpose, FK grade material is suitable, the thickness of which exceeds 12 mm. It is also recommended to purchase calibrated plywood sheets. The entire batch of such products has the same thickness. Sanded sheets can be found on the market, but their use is not particularly necessary. Besides, it's worth given material more expensive than regular plywood. The procedure for laying plywood is as follows:

1. Each sheet needs to be cut into 4 fragments.
2. The choice of fasteners depends on the material from which the floor is made. Sheets are attached to a wooden base with nails, to a concrete surface - with self-tapping screws.
3. Between the sheets you need to leave a space of 3 mm.

Before laying parquet board the floor can be leveled with a cement screed:

1. Initially, the old coating and dust should be removed from the base. If there are cracks, they must be sealed with cement mortar.
2. The joint between the floor and the wall is closed with a damper tape. This will help prevent cracking and leakage of the mixture. The tape should exceed the screed by 4-5 cm.
3. In addition, a waterproofing compound is applied to the floor surface or a plastic film is laid.
4. To determine the thickness of the screed layer and the areas on which the beacons will be installed, it is necessary to find the highest point. A mark is placed at a distance of a meter from the floor slab.
5. Further, a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the room, which will play the role of a base level.
6. Then the distance from this line to the floor is measured and the highest point is determined. The thickness of the screed must not be less than this level.
7. After that, beacons are installed - guiding elements, set in accordance with entry level. Do not use wooden parts for this purpose, because. they will absorb moisture during the drying process of the screed. Lighthouses should be located at a distance of 20 cm from the wall and 30 cm from each other. You can fix them with cement composition. But in this case, before proceeding with the screed, you need to wait until it dries.
8. The next step is to prepare the solution. You can purchase a special mixture or prepare the composition yourself. To do this, mix cement with sand in a ratio of 1: 3 and add water. For stirring, use a drill equipped with a stirrer. The solution should acquire the consistency of thick sour cream. To check the readiness of the mixture, you need to squeeze a lump in your hand - it should not spread and disintegrate. If desired, plasticizers can be added to the composition - elements that increase the plasticity and elasticity of the solution.
9. The mixture is laid starting from the opposite side of the exit. The composition is laid out between the guides by 0.5 m, after which it is pulled together using the rule.
10. It will take 3 weeks for the screed to dry. During this time, it is necessary to periodically moisten it with a roller. This will prevent cracks from appearing. Also for this, the screed can be covered with a film.

Laying parquet boards: floating installation technology

Parquet flooring according to this method can be laid on wooden base and screed. The fastening of the boards is carried out according to the tenon-groove system. Parquet is not attached to the floor surface. This method has several advantages:

1. There is no need to purchase additional adhesives, which reduces costs.
2. Installation work does not take much time.
3. The simplicity of the technology makes it possible to perform the installation on your own without the involvement of specialists.
4. In case of damage to any element, the repair can be performed fragmentarily.
5. Replacement of one or more boards is carried out without parsing the coating.

Mounting on wooden floor and logs

1. If you plan to mount the coating on a wooden base, it is initially necessary to eliminate all existing defects - chips, grooves, cracks, the space between the boards.
2. Leveling the old floor will take more time and effort. This will require Sander, self-tapping screws, glue. The boards of the new floor are leveled manually using a planer.
3. Installation on logs involves fastening to the base with nails. This procedure is performed through the ridges of the connecting lock of the board.

How to put a parquet board on glue

This method is mainly used in large rooms. It allows you to ensure a strong adhesion of the parquet flooring to the base. When choosing this method, it should be remembered that parquet boards can only be laid with glue on absolutely flat surface. This is the most common way at present. But it is also quite expensive, since its implementation will require the purchase of additional materials.

To lay a parquet board with your own hands, you will need:
a hammer;

• hacksaw;
• square;
• a bar measuring 30 cm;
• pencil, tape measure, ruler;
• stop bracket;
• wedges;
• drill.

First consider important rules in preparation for the process:

1. During the work and after their completion, the temperature in the room should be at the level of + 20 ° C, the humidity should not exceed 60%.
2. If the installation is carried out on a heated base, then 48 hours before the start of laying, the temperature must be set at +18°C.
3. The wood from which the coating is made has the property of shrinking and expanding depending on changes in humidity levels. For this reason, a space of 10 mm is left between the floor and the walls. A similar gap will be required in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bpipe passage.
4. Do not open all packages at once. This should be done as the work progresses.
5. If the width of the room exceeds 8 m, the coating is separated by a free seam. The same operation is carried out when moving to another room, in the area of ​​​​the door structure and in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe corners. The longitudinal seam is not glued, it is closed with a separate bar.

The installation process is carried out in the following sequence of actions:

1. First, the boards are checked for defects. If present, only the undamaged part is used. Install such parquet in inconspicuous areas. Having laid the first row, you need to make sure that it turned out to be even. The whole subsequent process depends on this.
2. If the surface of the wall from which laying is uneven, then the board is cut in accordance with its bend with a hacksaw. First, you need to draw an indicative line with a pencil.
3. Laying the second row begins with the fragment remaining from the previous board. Cross seams should be spaced 50 cm apart.
4. The adhesive composition is applied to the upper and lower edge of the groove with a layer of 2 mm. Excess adhesive must be removed from the surface of the coating with a damp cloth. One liter of the composition can process 15 m 2 of area.
5. Connect the boards with a bar.
6. If there are pipes in the room where the installation is being carried out, then you need to cut off a fragment from the board, which will be laid behind the communications.
7. Then, using a square, two lines are marked on it, corresponding to the diameter of the pipes. From the middle of the communications to the installed board, the distance is marked.
8. Then you need to drill holes, the diameter of which should be 20 mm larger than the size of the pipes.
9. With the help of a hacksaw, passages are cut along the marked lines, after which the board is installed.
10. Glue is applied to the edges of the sawn fragments, and they are installed in the cut zone.

When installing a parquet board, it often becomes necessary to shorten the door frame and trim. To do this, you need to lay a separate board with a backing next to the box. Next, the platbands and the box are cut off with a hacksaw. In the threshold area, special linings are installed. The width of the last board does not always correspond to the required size. In this situation, it must be placed on the previous panel (their edges must match) and cut. Preliminary marks can be made.

The sawn-off fragment is mounted using a bracket. Wedges are installed for fixation. Seams can be treated with mastic. It will take 4 hours for the glue to dry. After this time, the wedges must be removed and the plinth installed. This coating can also be laid on carpet or linoleum. But in this situation, the fastening can only be done by the floating method. As a result, you will get excellent and reliable coverage made of oak parquet board, which will fit into any interior.

Grinding

Grinding allows you to hide all the defects of the coating. After this procedure, the parquet board made of ash, larch and other species becomes more attractive. For work you need to prepare:

• special machine;
• sandpaper of different grain sizes;
• a vacuum cleaner;
• wood putty;
• varnish, roller, brushes.

The processing process looks like this:

1. An abrasive No. 40 is installed on the machine.
2. First, grinding is performed by tilting the drum at an angle of 45°.
3. Then the procedure is repeated, but in the direction of laying the boards.
4. The work should be carried out until the complete disappearance of irregularities and roughness.
5. To process various hard-to-reach areas, a “boot” device is used.
6. On the final stage the surface is treated with a fine-grained abrasive.
7. To check the quality of grinding, you need to run your hand over the coating and check that it should be perfectly smooth.

Parquet manufacturers

Tarkett parquet board is made of pine, oak and other types of natural wood. The manufacturer offers a wide range of these products. The consumer has the opportunity to choose a suitable parquet flooring from a wide variety of colors. Tarket's most popular product is a three-strip board, 14 cm thick.

The high quality of this material allows it to be used in rooms of any purpose. The lock joints of the boards are thoroughly tested and meet all quality requirements. The manufacturer provides a fifteen-year warranty for its products. At the same time, Tarkett boards are distinguished by their affordable cost.

Polarwood parquet board has a multilayer structure. In each layer, the wood fibers are arranged in a perpendicular direction, which increases the strength of the material. The middle layer, which takes on the bulk of the load, is made from softwood. And the base of the board, which acts as a stabilizer, is made of birch. On the outside material is applied 5 layers of varnish.

Polarwood uses only natural materials to make its products. The parquet flooring of this manufacturer is resistant to high temperature and ultraviolet rays. Polarwood boards retain their performance characteristics for 20 years.

Conclusion

Hardwood flooring can be installed in several ways, each with its own advantages. The technological process is simple and does not require special training, and a wide variety of materials will allow you to choose best option for your interior.

Parquet flooring. Video:

The main methods of laying parquet boards

The parquet board is laid either by the floating floor method or by the rigid fastening of the board to the base.

1. floating floor method consists in connecting parquet boards to each other without fixing them to the floor base. The boards are assembled into a single layer, which lies freely on the substrate - a special compensating material located between the base and the parquet floor. This method is the most common, but like any other method, it has its strengths and weaknesses.

Main advantages:

high speed assembly process - laying 30 m2 of board takes no more than one day;

cost minimization - the cost of the finished floor consists only of the cost of the board, substrate and parquet work;

fewer requirements for the professionalism of the installer - laying the board can be done even on your own;

the ability to reuse the board - glueless connection allows you to partially or completely disassemble the parquet floor and lay it again.

Main cons:

insufficient reliability - the mobility of the parquet layer over time can lead to deformation of the interlock and a violation of the integrity of the structure;

when restoring parquet, it will be almost impossible to polish its surface with high quality. The lack of a rigid attachment to the base will not allow it to be done evenly over the entire area;

possible discomfort during operation - the movement of the floating floor in a vertical plane under short-term loads leads to the sound of steps characteristic of the floating floor and, over time, to the appearance of a creak.

2. Method of rigid attachment to the base involves gluing each parquet board to a specially prepared floor base. At the time of drying adhesive composition boards are additionally fixed with parquet nails or staples to enhance the strength of the entire structure. This method also has its advantages and disadvantages.

Main advantages:

high reliability of the design - the glued structure of the "parquet pie" will give additional reliability and durability to the floor;

good repairability - the structural integrity of the parquet floor will allow you to repair its surface with high quality;

high level of comfort - the appearance of a creak or a loud sound of steps when walking on the floor is almost completely excluded.

Main cons:

high demands on the professionalism of the installer - the installation of parquet boards by non-professionals will significantly increase the risk of a failed result;

higher cost level - you will need to purchase Additional materials and pay for the services of professional parquet flooring;

time consuming - layer-by-layer installation technology will require much more time than floating floor assembly;

the thickness of the "parquet cake" - an additional layer of plywood will increase the height of the parquet floor.

Preparatory stage of work

Before proceeding to the main stage of work, a number of important preparatory activities should be carried out.

1. Foundation preparation

Substrate requirements for laying boards in a floating way. As a base for a parquet board, old wooden, tile or stone floors, a base made of concrete or self-levelling mixtures, etc. can be used. Textile coverings (carpet, linoleum, carpet) are unsuitable as a base material. Regardless of the type of substrate used, it must be level, dry, solid and clean. The evenness of the base is checked over the entire area of ​​the forthcoming laying, using a rule of at least 2 meters in length. The gap between the base and the rule should not exceed 2-3 mm over a length of 2000 mm. If necessary, the base should be leveled or sanded in accordance with the specified requirements. The moisture content of a concrete or sand-cement base must not exceed 2%. Underfloor heating should be used with extreme caution. The heating temperature of the surface of the base must in no case exceed +27 °C. Fluctuations in floor temperature during the day should remain within 5 °C. It is not recommended to lay parquet boards made of wood species that are especially sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature, such as beech, maple, olive or wenge, on heated floors.

Requirements for the base for laying the board by the method of rigid fastening. As with a floating floor, the base for hardwood flooring must be dry, even, clean and strong. In addition, it should be as suitable as possible for the full surface bonding of parquet and be able to securely hold nails or self-tapping screws inside. Moisture-resistant plywood, comparable in thickness to a parquet board, will serve as an ideal base. Plywood, in turn, must also be securely attached to a wooden or concrete base with glue and self-tapping screws. The surface of the plywood must be sanded, and the plywood itself must be laid in compliance with the technological gap 5 mm wide between the sheets. Attention! The use of "warm floor" systems under such a base is unacceptable.

2. Laying scheme

Before starting work, you need to make a choice laying directions parquet boards in every room. Usually the board is laid in the direction of daylight falling into the room. In rooms with an elongated shape, it is recommended to lay the parquet board in the longitudinal direction (material waste will be 3-5%). In rooms of complex geometric shape, you can lay the board diagonally (material waste will be 7-10%). If an old wooden floor acts as a base, the parquet should be laid across the boards of this floor. Rooms with different laying directions must be separated by expansion joints, which are then closed with overhead thresholds.

3. Preparation of materials and tools for work

The minimum set of tools. To lay the parquet board, you will need the following tools: a saw with a thin blade, a hammer, a sharp knife, a marking square, a drill, a chisel, a tape measure, a pencil, a wooden or plastic pick (at least 30 cm long with straight edges), wooden wedges, a spatula and mounting foot.

Preparation for the work of the board and related materials. Before proceeding directly to work, prepare the parquet board for laying. Unopened packages with parquet boards are recommended to be kept in the room where laying is to take place for at least 3-5 days in order to better adapt the board to the microclimate of the room. Parquet packs should be opened only in the course of work. Before laying the boards, you need to make sure that they do not have defects. If a damaged board is found, it can be replaced with a board without flaws by contacting the seller, or used at the beginning or end of the row during the laying process. The room in which the installation will be carried out must be well lit and have optimal performance temperature (18-24 °C) and air humidity (40-60%). Do not forget to prepare everything for work: the substrate and, if necessary, glue, plywood, hardware, rags to remove excess glue.

Important points to consider when laying parquet boards in a floating way

Before starting work, be sure to read the installation manual and the rules for operating the parquet board, drawn up by its manufacturer. The following are only general recommendations for laying parquet boards, and also listed typical mistakes that are performed by inexperienced craftsmen during installation work.

1. Brief step-by-step instructions for floating laying

First of all, you need to measure the width of the room and calculate how many rows of boards you need. If the width of the last row is less than 40 mm, cut the boards of the first row with a saw, reducing their width.

Spread the underlayment on the floor subfloor, if necessary fastening adjacent sheets of material with adhesive tape so that they do not bend during installation.

Start laying from left to right (fig. 1), from a solid wall of the room, placing the first board with a longitudinal tenon against the wall. The distance of 7-10 mm between the boards and the wall must be adjusted using wedges.

Install the next board with the short side facing the previous board. Connect the boards to each other with a spike in the groove (Fig. 2). Continue in this manner until the end of the first row.

Using a saw, cut the last board of the row to size, taking into account the expansion joint, and lay it.

Start the next row (fig. 5) with a piece cut from the last board laid. Adjacent boards should overlap each other by at least 30-50 cm (Fig. 3). For a tight connection, it is necessary to lightly knock adjacent boards to each other with a hammer and a punch (Fig. 8). Attention! Do not use cutting boards as a stump. Continue assembling the parquet board until you reach the last row.

The last row. Measure the width of the last row at several points (taking into account the expansion joint), mark the cutting line and cut the boards to the appropriate size. Lay the boards and press them firmly into place, for example with a mounting foot. Place a protective pad between the wall and the mounting foot to avoid damaging the wall. Install expansion wedges.

Even after studying the instructions for laying a parquet board, many make typical mistakes and miscalculations, namely:

lay a parquet board on a poorly prepared base;

carry out installation work in a room with inadequate temperature and humidity conditions;

do not arrange a technological seam at the border of the board with other floor coverings and when approaching vertical obstacles (walls, columns, built-in furniture);

use in laying trimming boards smaller than permissible sizes;

leave the distance between the end joints of the boards in adjacent rows less than 30 cm;

loosely connect the docking node (thorn-groove) of the board.

Important points to consider when laying parquet boards in a way of rigid fastening to the base

1. Brief step-by-step installation instructions with gluing to the base

Once again, make sure that the base, materials and tools for laying the board in this way are ready and of good quality.

Carry out the assembly of parquet boards in the same order as for the assembly of boards by the floating method, after applying a layer of glue to the base or back of the board.

Press each glued board firmly to the base with nails or a heavy weight. Do not remove the load until the adhesive has completely dried.

Avoid getting adhesives on oiled or varnished surfaces. Wipe off any excess adhesive that appears on the surface immediately with a damp cloth, preventing it from drying out.

Do not subject the floor to heavy loads in the first few hours after laying until the adhesive has completely dried.

2. The main mistakes during installation work

The method of rigid fastening to the base requires much more experience in parquet work. But even professional parquet floorers sometimes make mistakes:

do not clean the base from dust and dirt, which leads to a deterioration in the quality of gluing;

use poor-quality, improperly prepared or unsuitable glue;

do not control the consumption of glue;

do not press the boards tightly enough to the base, leaving “air pockets” between them;

do not remove glue residue from the surface of the board in time.

Summary

At the beginning of our article, we asked ourselves: what you need to know and be able to get a beautiful, reliable and durable parquet flooring. It's time to take stock.

Laying a parquet board is a time-consuming and responsible process that requires special knowledge and professional skills. Compliance with the following rules will help to achieve success in this difficult task.

Select suitable technology laying parquet boards.

Acquire the necessary quality materials for laying.

Properly prepare the base.

Determine the laying direction.

Start laying the parquet board only after all wet work has been completed.

Entrust the execution of all the above points to professionals.

The service life of the coating, its performance, and appearance depend on how high-quality the laying of parquet will be. Therefore, when deciding to carry out the installation with your own hands, you must first thoroughly study the features of the process, draw up an action plan, and prepare a set of specialized tools.

The bonus will be a thematic video "Laying parquet: video with step-by-step instructions", visually teaching right action which can be found at the end of the article. As for the parquet itself, everything is simple here. Piece - the most popular version of it, practical and easy to use, fixed by the "thorn-groove" locking system with a thickness of slats from 15 to 22 mm, a length of up to 50 cm and a width of up to 75 mm. Below are several options for laying the material.

Laying strip parquet is almost as easy as laying a parquet board, but there can be many more pattern options.

No matter what the installation of strip parquet will be (there are several installation methods), important condition - proper preparation grounds. The base can be made on the basis of a concrete screed, cement or log. If this is the third option, then the first layer is formed from roofing felt, covering it with logs and plywood to level the surface, heat and sound insulation of the coating. In addition, plywood sheets as an auxiliary layer guarantee a high level of strength for the finished floor.

If we are talking about a concrete screed, then the surface of the base is carefully leveled with self-leveling mixtures, if necessary, polished for additional evenness, cleaned and dried. Plywood sheets are also used as an intermediate layer. square shape fixed to the base with dowel-nails.

It is important not to forget about the gap between the sheets of at least 1 mm in case of expansion of the material under the influence of temperature changes and moisture. Another gap of strategic importance is the expansion joint between the wall surface and plywood - at least 2 mm. For convenience, at this stage, wedges are used, which are removed during the installation of skirting boards.

This intermediate layer is also possible.

Cement screed as a base for parquet flooring must also be dry, clean, even and practical. Height differences of more than a millimeter per two square meters are not allowed. Floor humidity should be between 2% and 4%.

To improve the adhesion of parquet to the floor, it would be advisable to treat the base with primer mixtures before installation. Glue and primer must be combined with each other - the quality of adhesion depends on this. When the humidity level exceeds the norm, a polyurethane composition is used that creates a waterproofing barrier. Priming mixtures are applied with a spatula or roller.

As in the previous two cases, it will be correct to lay plywood sheets between the cement base and the parquet to improve sound and heat insulation properties. The optimal parameters of the intermediate material are 1.5 × 1.5 meters with a thickness of 12 mm or more. They fix plywood to the base with self-tapping screws or parquet glue, as an option, the use of screws is also allowed, although this method is not the most practical, since over time the floor under the parquet will loosen and cause creaking.

It is not necessary to do the entire floor from scratch, you can often use the existing one

Another option for installing parquet is on an old wooden floor. Here, work can begin only after careful preparation of the base with a solution to the problems of creaking, dips, deformations and other defects.

Before laying parquet on the old floor, it is dismantled in damaged areas, repaired, sanded, cleaned and dried. In this case, plywood sheets as an intermediate layer will not be needed, since the wood base itself will play its role.

Installation options for piece parquet - what methods are used

Most often, laying parquet with your own hands is done using the floating method. This option is the easiest, since the floor elements are equipped with a special locking system and are simply attached to each other without dust, dirt and extra effort. The joining of the slats occurs according to the tenon-groove principle. When performing installation using this system, you need to remember that the floor is not fixed on the base, which means it will be especially susceptible to changes in the microclimate in the room. Hence the name - floating mounting method.

To exclude deformation of the coating, one should not forget about the gap between the planks of the first row and the wall (at least 1 cm), subsequently masked by skirting boards.

Strip plank with grooves

Lay the boards in a floating method on a layer of vapor barrier and sound insulation. It is convenient to use cork material for this, the porous structure of which increases its thermal insulation properties.

The advantage of the floating method is the high laying speed, ease of operation, the absence of dust and dirt, as well as the ability to repair the floor in certain areas during operation if necessary.

When laying strip parquet on a plywood floor with glue, you need to be careful so that there are no cracks and gaps

The technology of laying piece parquet on glue will turn out to be somewhat different. First of all, this option involves the preparation of materials for the work. This is necessarily a high-quality parquet one- or two-component adhesive (preferably water-based), a roller, brushes, a spatula for application, as well as a drill with a nozzle to obtain a homogeneous mass.

The floorboards are mounted on a base smeared with glue (only a section for one row is prepared), with their associated connection using a locking system. Just as in the previous case, leave an indent between the wall and the planks of the first row of 1 cm, driving plastic or wooden wedges in this place.

The main technologies for installing parquet flooring - the nuances of laying

In addition to the options for fastening methods, there are also different installation methods that affect the appearance of the finished floor. Most often, the following types of masonry are used:

• deck;
• "herringbone";
• squares;
• mosaic;
• diamonds;
• Sheremetiev star.

Consider the difference between parquet laying in each of the options.

Deck laying is parquet boards, laid out in a longitudinal way with each next row shifted by half. This method of installation contributes to an increase in the level of floor rigidity. They mount the plates from the wall, which is opposite the door, gradually moving towards the exit.

To obtain a floor that is visually seamless glossy surface, the slats are fixed longitudinally to the light entering the window. Before starting the installation, the plates of the first row are laid out taking into account the indentation from the wall, marking the cut line from the last element.

For a strong fixation, before mounting each subsequent row, at the junction of the connection of two planks, the board of the next row is connected, slightly loosening it to align the connection horizontally. So do with all the joints. An electric jigsaw is suitable for sawing planks. Such a tool will not damage the surface of the elements.

You can also lay the parquet diagonally on the deck, having previously drawn a diagram on the base for ease of installation.

Deck laying looks interesting, despite the simplicity of the pattern

You can lay the parquet correctly in a herringbone pattern using planks that have spikes on two corner sides and grooves on the other two sides. Installation is carried out in such a way that the connections are in the same direction.

You can mount the strips at an angle to the walls of 45 or 90 degrees. Installation begins with a lighthouse "Christmas tree", that is, with laying the first two rows to set the main line. The initial "herringbone" should be perfectly even, so it is recommended to use a stretch from a fishing line or a drawing to align the dies. The parquet is mounted on glue with additional fixation using a locking system.

Parquet, laid with a mosaic or wickerwork, is a square or rectangle of dice. Posting a picture is pretty easy. To do this, the planks are laid out in the form of the desired geometric figure, lining them up perpendicular to each other with each subsequent shift to the side for the effect of a chessboard.

Christmas tree styling is one of the most popular

There are many laying options in this way, ranging from a simple mosaic with alternating plank circles in the same direction with a circle inside in the perpendicular direction and ending with crosses, stripes, etc. Just as in the previous case, installation begins with laying the beacon row. You can arrange the figures at an angle of 45 degrees, which implies a large consumption of parquet.

You can lay parquet on your own using the Sheremetyevskaya Star technology using rectangular and inclined diamond-shaped elements. Mosaic, laid out on the floor in this way, will decorate the interior. To achieve desired effect, laying is carried out according to a pre-drawn scheme.

How to work with artistic parquet - features

Artistic parquet - a subspecies of the classic piece parquet with patterns formed by combining dice with different parameters, colors, shades. These can be boards from one type of wood, or from several, different in appearance, but in harmony with each other in terms of properties.

Flooring based on artistic parquet has a number of advantages compared to conventional flooring:

• the surface looks unusual and original, allowing you to emphasize the individuality of the interior in the room;
• the finished floor does not require the use of additional decorative elements, as it is a holistic harmonious composition;
• the service life exceeds several decades, subject to the rules of care and use while maintaining the appearance and performance;
• the coating is environmentally friendly and safe;
• high level of heat and sound insulation properties;
• unpretentiousness in care;
• the possibility of carrying out repair and restoration work.

Proper laying of artistic parquet allows you to create interesting geometric patterns in a simple way - by connecting the dies into a "thorn groove". Floor elements may differ in fiber pattern due to various options cut. Artistic parquet is mounted after finishing walls and ceilings, fastening with communications.

An interesting drawing of artistic parquet always attracts attention and adds unusualness to the room.

In the process of carrying out work in the room, optimal temperature and humidity conditions are maintained. The temperature is within 18-23 degrees Celsius above zero, humidity - no more than 60%.

As for the laying itself, it consists of the same steps as the installation of conventional piece parquet. At the initial stage, the base is prepared - it must be dry, clean and even, after which it is treated with primer mixtures, a layer of thermal and waterproofing is arranged. The boards are fixed in one of the above ways, choosing the best laying option from ready-made schemes or working according to an individual plan.

At the final stage, the coating is puttied, sanded, primed and varnished with the number of layers from two to seven. As an option, you can consider a coating based on oil mixtures or mastic, but in the case of artistic parquet, it is the lacquer layer that will be most appropriate, as it can not only protect the floor, but also emphasize its luxury and elegance.

Like any other parquet floor, artistic parquet requires pre-treatment and proper care to preserve its integrity and appearance.

parquet board in last years has become a very popular coating, as it is one of the most aesthetic materials for flooring. It is suitable for flooring in almost any room of the house or apartment, with the exception of the bathroom (due to high humidity). However, when purchasing a quality flooring, its correct installation and compliance with the recommendations for operation, even in a humid room, the parquet board can last for a long time.

In any case, it is not enough to acquire a high-quality coating - its durability depends on proper installation. Call the master? - it can be expensive, comparable to the cost of the material. Maybe you should try doing this yourself? Why not, if you apply your skills and diligence. So, laying a parquet board with your own hands is a step-by-step instruction with illustrations.

What is a parquet board?

The structure of the parquet board

First of all, let's remember once again what lies under the term "parquet board".

This type of coating, as an alternative, was patented back in 1941. During its development, a higher resistance to external influences, with a significant reduction in the cost of the material. Initially, the parquet board consisted of two layers. Subsequently, with the advent of innovative technologies, it was repeatedly modernized, however, the material of its manufacture remained unchanged - natural wood. Thanks to this, it flooring remains in high demand for many decades. In particular, the parquet board has become popular in recent times when eco-style is reborn in designer fashion.

Today, as a rule, three-layer parquet boards go on sale, which first appeared on the market in 1946 and turned out to be much more practical than the original version. The Tarkett company began to produce this coating, which to this day supplies its products around the world, while remaining a leader in this field of production.

The strength and durability of this flooring is due to the structural structure of the board. Each of the layers of the "pie" has a different thickness. Well, the position of the wood fibers in each of the subsequent layers have a direction perpendicular to the previous one. In the lower and upper layers, the fibers run along the board, and in the middle, respectively, across. It is this arrangement that gives the material strength and eliminates the risk of deformation.

• The top layer of the parquet board is made of high quality hardwood. The layer is not only decorative - it has excellent wear resistance, has a thickness of at least four millimeters. Since the appearance of the parquet board depends on the quality of this material, the wood for the top layer is carefully selected. The lamellas from which the board is made must not have any defects. They are selected according to the textured pattern, as well as the color shade. The slats are adjusted to each other, glued together, and then fixed to the base also with glue. Some models of parquet boards have a solid coating made of high quality natural veneer. They are also called single-strip boards.
• For the manufacture of the middle layer are usually used conifers wood. The blanks have semi-vertical or vertical annual rings, which are able to evenly distribute the load and give increased stability to the material. This layer consists of equally wide (20 ÷ 30 mm) perfectly processed dies, which are laid across. The thickness of the middle layer is 7÷8 mm. On it, as a rule, lock connections are located - figured grooves and spikes.
• The bottom layer consists of one or two whole boards and is stabilizing. It creates a reliable and stable support for the upper structure and prevents its deflection. The thickness of this layer is no more than 4 mm.

The surface of the outer layer of the finished parquet board is carefully polished, and then covered with protective and decorative compounds, which are applied in several layers - this is putty, then a primer, lining and decorative varnish, which, after application, hardens under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Thanks to the outer layer, the finished coating becomes resistant to fading and mechanical damage. Such a floor covering does not need additional varnishing after laying.

parquet board prices

parquet board

Advantages and disadvantages of parquet board

Like any other floor covering, parquet boards have their advantages and disadvantages. They are best viewed by comparing it with other popular floor coverings.

• The main advantage of a parquet board, in comparison with linoleum and laminate, is its environmental friendliness, since it is made only from natural wood.
• parquet board, quality installation, is indistinguishable from natural parquet, and a film with the image of a textured wood pattern is applied to linoleum and laminate. In the best case, the laminate can be covered with natural veneer glued to MDF.
• In a parquet board, solid wood is used only for the top layer, and piece parquet is made entirely of natural wood, but it also costs several times more than the first. However, the parquet board is more resistant to deformation processes than the parquet, as it has the construction described above - the alternation of layers with different fiber directions. Parquet is rather moody material that requires periodic maintenance, and if everything is left to chance, the wood may swell from high humidity or begin to dry out when there is not enough moisture. As a result, parquet slabs begin to deform - to bend and warp.
• Compared with the same parquet, the parquet board is much faster and more convenient to lay, as it has big sizes. In addition, laying the board does not require special skills. It is enough to have a ready-made even base for coatings and instructions for its installation.

It is not so easy to lay parquet, and therefore professional masters, whose work is quite expensive, are engaged in its flooring.

• In the case when any mistakes were made when laying the parquet board, they can be corrected if the material was not mounted on glue. With parquet, making corrections will be much more difficult.
• Unlike parquet, parquet board goes on sale with applied protective coating and can be used for a long time without additional processing. Parquet, after its flooring, requires scraping, and then coating with special oil or
• A parquet board can imitate parquet, the slabs of which are laid in rows with a shift relative to each other, and also in the form of plank floorboards.
• The parquet board perfectly imitates the wooden floor. And the latter is rarely made of valuable wood, as it costs too much. But a parquet board covered with a layer of expensive wood will cost much less.
• The service life of a parquet board is 20÷30 years, depending on the quality and timeliness of its care, as well as on the accuracy and intensity of its operation. Unlike it, parquet and solid board have a longer service life, but require more careful maintenance - painting or varnishing or oiling. However, it must be clarified that the parquet board can also be sanded to renew it. And some of its models, which have thick enough upper layer 6 mm, can be polished 10 or even more times.

Linoleum prices

linoleum

To summarize, we can conclude that the design of the parquet board is less whimsical to maintain than parquet, and also positively differs from laminate and linoleum in its environmental friendliness. The price of a parquet board cannot be called low, however, you can install it yourself, while it is unlikely that you can cope with the laying of natural parquet on your own.

Substrate preparation for parquet flooring

Parquet flooring can be laid on various substrates - concrete floor, plank or plywood floor, and even on an old but durable floor, lined with ceramic tiles. The main thing is that the base is even, without protrusions and large recesses, so the surface must be carefully prepared.

The preparatory measures before laying the parquet board include several points, without which it is impossible to obtain a high-quality floor covering.

• The first step is a thorough revision of the foundation. If cracks, depressions or protrusions are found, they must be eliminated. Cracks widen and are filled with concrete or other composite repair mortar (special putty). Separate recesses are also leveled with concrete, and big enough protrusions are broken. Small flaws can be smoothed out by laying a special substrate on the floors.
• In addition, the surface of the base is checked for evenness using a building level. It is permissible that the irregularities are 2 ÷ 2.5 mm per one running meter, but no more than that.
• If the quality of the base does not fit into the permissible errors, then alignment will have to be arranged. Depending on the type of floor, you can use a screed for this (for example,), or you can bring the floor into a horizontal plane with lags and then attach plywood or boards to them.

• If only minor flaws in the floor are found, which still need to be leveled, this can also be done by fixing plywood sheets to the concrete base, laying them according to the principle “ brickwork", that is, in a run. Sheets can be screwed or glued to concrete.

Laminate prices

• Before laying parquet boards or plywood directly on concrete, the base must be well primed to strengthen the surface and prevent dust.
• If the board will be laid directly on the concrete surface, then a substrate is laid under it.

Foamed polyethylene, thin sheets of extruded polystyrene, cork material in slabs and rolls are used as this layer.

A cork sheet or slab substrate is most often glued to the base, as it not only smooths out small irregularities, but also acts as a heater.

Both rolled and slab materials are stacked end-to-end.

It is not recommended to use an old carpet or carpet as a substrate, as well as linoleum, as this material can deform and pull parquet boards along with it. In addition, the old flooring absorbs various odors during its operation, which the new parquet board cannot hide.

• You need to prepare not only materials, but also tools for performing work. The list of items required for installation includes:

- an electric jigsaw, a circular saw or a hacksaw with a fine tooth pitch;

- rubber mallet - for tamping rows;

- screwdriver;

- rule and building level;

- square and tape measure;

- regular and notched trowels;

- a special bracket for pulling boards. It can be purchased ready-made or made independently from a steel strip 4 ÷ 5 mm thick.

- tamping bar. It can also be "store-bought" or homemade;

- expansion wedges.

Having prepared everything you need, you need to once again conduct a conscientious cleaning. In particular, the floor surface before laying any material must be carefully. Any small pebble that accidentally remains under the surface can seriously harm the overall quality of the resulting floor.

Features of laying parquet boards

Before moving on to the step-by-step instructions for installing parquet flooring, it’s worth talking a little about some of the nuances of its installation, which you also need to have information about.

• The first thing to remember is that the parquet board purchased and brought into the house must be aged in the room where it will subsequently be laid. This is especially important to consider if the purchase was made in the cold season, and the temperature difference between the room and the street is quite large. In the room where the coating will be laid, the air temperature should be at least 18 degrees, and the humidity should be 30 ÷ 60%. For “tracking down”, it is better to free the board from the factory polymer packaging.

• Before proceeding to the preparation of the floors and the installation of the coating, it is necessary to draw up in advance an approximate layout of the board, taking into account its length and width. Thanks to this drawing, it will be easier to navigate when laying. There is an opportunity to immediately determine the most good size cut boards, which are usually laid along both edges of the row or only on one side of it.
• Segments of boards, reported in a row, must have a length of at least 500 mm.
• When drawing up a diagram, you also need to take into account the width of the boards of the last row, since they usually have to be cut. If they have a width of less than 60 mm, then the coating should be moved a little, that is, cutting the boards not only of the last, but also of the first row.
• Parquet boards are laid "in a run". This means that the boards of the second row are offset by ½ or ⅓ of the length relative to the first row.
• Given the features and shape of the room, the location is chosen, that is, the direction of laying the boards, which determines the pattern.

- The easiest option, which is most often chosen for laying, is to mount the board along or across the room. At the same time, it is worth considering that if the board is laid across the room, it will visually make it wider, and the longitudinal installation will lengthen it. Such an "optical game" will help solve the problem of a room that is too long or narrow.

Prices for flooring under parquet

underlay for parquet

- The second installation option is a diagonal masonry. It is more complex in execution and involves a lot of waste, which means that the cost of buying a board will be increased, as more her amount. This installation method is great for flooring in square rooms and visually expands the space of the room. When making diagonal masonry, the end edges of the boards extreme to the wall are cut off clearly, at an angle of 45 or 30 degrees. Installation of the coating begins from the middle of the room. To do this, along the diagonal of the room - from corner to corner, a line is drawn or a cord is pulled, along which the first row of the coating is laid. Then, the masonry continues first in one and then in the other direction from the central row.

Technology of installation of a parquet board

Understanding the technological methods of laying this coating, you need to consider all aspects.

So, the parquet board can be laid in three ways - "floating" masonry, on glue or on logs. To decide which one is suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are, deal with their advantages and disadvantages.

"Floating" parquet flooring

Such laying of a parquet board is carried out without fixing the coating to the base. Well, its solidity is achieved only through locking joints located along the edges of the boards.

Such installation includes several stages, which will be discussed in detail in the instruction table below. Now we can only dwell on the positive and negative aspects of this method.

To "pros" This technology can include:

• Simplicity and speed of laying.
• Possibility to correct errors made during installation.
• Possibility to replace individual floor boards in case of damage.
• Ease of dismantling the board and the possibility of recycling. For example, the coating is tired or has lost its relevance or aesthetics, so it was decided to replace it. The board can be easily removed and transferred to the dacha, where it can be put back into one of the rooms.
• The resistance of the floating coating to temperature fluctuations, as the design has the ability to expand the material.
• Savings on the purchase of glue.
• The floating cover can be operated immediately after the completion of the installation work.

"Cons" this method of laying can be considered:

• "Floating" coating is not suitable for installation in rooms with an area of ​​​​more than 50 "squares".
• It is not recommended for laying in rooms where a high load will be placed on the floors.
• The coating is sensitive even to small irregularities, so it is necessary under it. However, this material will cost less than special glue.

Adhesive way to install parquet boards

The name of this installation method speaks for itself. That is, with this approach, the parquet board is laid on a special glue applied to the base.

And When purchasing glue, you need to make sure that it is suitable for a particular type of parquet board.

Installation according to this technique is carried out in stages. At the same time, strict adherence to all technological recommendations, tested by masters and proven its importance.

• The adhesive mounting method is used if the board is planned to be laid on concrete pavement which must be well primed before starting work. If the apartment is located on the ground floor of the house, where there is a high probability of moisture penetrating floors and walls, then it is best to impregnate the floors with a deep penetration waterproofing compound that will protect surfaces from moisture and mold. The primer must be applied not only on the floors, but also on the lower part of the walls, with a strip of 100 ÷ 120 mm. If the solution will be applied in several layers, then each of them must be well dried.
• The next step, along one of the walls, a parquet board is laid, between it and the wall, at a distance of about 400 ÷ 500 mm from each other, special plastic or wooden inserts, which will provide a compensation gap. They allow the flooring material to expand as the room temperature rises, keeping the flooring level.

• Further, adjusting the length of the last board in the row (how this is done will be shown in the table below), glue is applied to the floor surface with a spatula over an area 80 ÷ 100 mm wide more than the outer line of the row. After application, the adhesive is spread over the surface with a notched trowel.
• Now it's time to lay the parquet board on the glue layer. It must immediately be precisely joined to each other using locking joints - this process is carried out in the same way when laying the board in any of the three ways.

• When the entire row of boards is laid, in some cases the coating can be additionally fixed to the floor using self-tapping screws, through pre-drilled holes in the grooves. Holes are drilled in increments of 300÷350 mm.
• Then on concrete base the adhesive mass is again applied and distributed over its surface.
• In the second row, the board is laid with a shift of half (or 1/3) relative to the already pasted board. First, the boards are joined along the length, and then connected to the elements of the first row, after which it is fixed with self-tapping screws to the base.

• If the two rows do not fit snugly against each other, that is, if there is a gap between them, a smooth bar is attached to the edge of the outer row, which is gently tapped with a rubber mallet so as not to break the lock connection on the parquet board. Melted tapping is carried out until the gap becomes almost invisible.
• In this way, the entire floor covering is glued.
• Do not allow glue to get on the front side of the parquet board. If this happens, then the drops are immediately removed - for this, a clean rag should always be at hand.
• When the surface of the floor of the room is completely covered with parquet, the coating must be left to dry for 2-3 days, without giving it any load. It is necessary to consider measures to exclude even an accidental passage into the room. The drying time of the glue, as a rule, the manufacturer indicates on the packaging.
• After the glue under the coating is completely dry, the seams between the boards must be treated with acrylic transparent sealant, which will reduce the risk of moisture from getting under the boards from the outside.
• When the sealant has completely hardened, you can remove the inserts along the walls, proceed with the installation of skirting boards, as well as an interior threshold.

It must be said that the adhesive method of fastening is selected if the floor surface has small irregularities that can be corrected with a layer of glue. Therefore, when installing a parquet board using a similar technology, you need to carefully press it to the floor surface.

To positive aspects adhesive mounting coatings include:

• The possibility of using this material on any size areas.
• Higher resistance to increased loads.
• The method is suitable for mounting a parquet board on top of a screed, equipped above a warm water floor.

To shortcomings adhesive laying include:

• The cost of purchasing glue.
• Possibility of operation of the premises only when the glue is completely dry.
• More complex installation of the coating.
• The impossibility of correcting the mistakes made in the masonry.
• Difficulty replacing damaged boards.

Installation of parquet boards on logs

Laying a parquet board on can be done in two ways - fixing it directly on the logs or on the wall on them plywood.

If the first installation option is chosen, then it must be taken into account that the thickness of the parquet board must be at least 22 mm. Only in this case, it is guaranteed that it will not bend under external load. In addition, lags must have large enough width (about 80 ÷ 90 mm) and fit on the base with a small step - usually 400 mm. The parquet board, which is fixed directly to the logs, is laid perpendicular to them. Board joints in one row are made in the middle of the lag width.

The second option involves fixing the lag to the base in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm, since plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm are laid on them before laying the board.

Both one and the other installation option is convenient if the floors need to be insulated or leveled by setting the lags in a horizontal plane according to the level.

Logs, selected under the flooring of the parquet board, must be well and properly dried. There should be no deformation of the timber or board, otherwise the finished floor may begin to creak over time.

Prices for parquet glue

parquet adhesive

Depending on how much you plan to raise the clean floor above the base, the logs can be fixed directly to the base, or raised above it and leveled with special racks or studs.

If the floors along the logs are arranged in a private house or in an apartment located on the ground floor of a high-rise building, then a concrete base is a must waterproof. This can be done using special coating solutions, impregnations, a dense plastic film or roofing material.

Logs are fixed on top of the waterproofing, between which insulation material is laid, which is covered with a dust-proof film. It is especially important to take this into account if mineral wool is used as a heater.

Then, along the logs with the help of self-tapping screws, sheets of plywood are fixed, between which a compensation gap of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm should be provided. Mounting screws are screwed into the logs through the plywood coating in increments of 150 ÷ ​​180 mm. The edge of each plywood sheet should be in the middle of the log.

Installation of a parquet board using "floating" technology - step by step instructions

Due to the fact that the most popular way of laying a parquet board is its "floating" version, it will be considered in the table below - from the beginning of the work to its final.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	So, the first step is to lay a waterproofing material on a leveled and primed base. In the case under consideration, a polyethylene film was chosen for this purpose. The illustration clearly shows that the waterproofing is laid not only on the horizontal surface of the floor, but also on the walls - it is raised by about 100 mm. It is not necessary to fix the waterproofing on the walls, however, if a thin material is chosen that will fall to the floor and interfere with work, then it can be temporarily fixed to the wall masking tape. But, nevertheless, it would be better to choose a dense film - this will reduce the time for work that will be required for gluing it.
	The next step, a substrate is laid on the waterproofing material. AT this case dense foamed polyethylene is chosen, but it may well be replaced with cork roll or plate material. First, only one sheet of a roll-type substrate is laid along the wall, from which the installation of the parquet board will begin, since if the room is completely covered, it will interfere with work, shifting to one side or the other. Usually, the flooring is laid from the left corner of the room, no matter how its installation is planned - along or across the room.
	After that, a pre-compiled scheme for laying the material is taken and prepared spacer wedges, which must be temporarily installed between the wall and the parquet board. The thickness of the spacer wedges should be 10÷15 mm.
	The next step is to lay the first parquet board. It is temporarily pressed against the walls to determine the evenness of its position.
	Now it's time to create an expansion gap between the wall and the flooring material. It is created using spacer wedges installed on all sides of the board, bordering the walls. The board is pressed tightly against these wedges. The step between the wedges along the long side of the board should be about 500 mm.
	Next, laying the second board of the first row. It is fastened to the first by means of a docking lock.
	Docking locks at different manufacturers may vary slightly, but usually when connected, they seem to snap together.
	It is important that the second and subsequent boards are set exactly to the width of the previous board. If one of them is shifted to the outside, the next row will not be able to dock with the previous one. This illustration clearly shows how the connection of two boards along the length of the row should look.
	Having laid out the first row almost completely, except for the last board, which, as a rule, has to be cut, using a tape measure or a metal ruler, measure the distance from the wall to the end of the laid board. At the same time, I take into account the fact that it is necessary to leave a compensation gap of 10 ÷ 15 mm, which was mentioned above. Therefore, in order to avoid accidental errors during measurement, it is best to attach a spacer wedge to the wall and measure the distance already from it.
	The next step, a whole board is applied to the end of the first row, then it is turned face down and the length of the desired segment is laid on its wrong side. Further, according to the mark along the building corner, a line perpendicular to the edges is drawn, along which, using circular saw or electric jigsaw cut is made.
	The prepared segment is joined to the rest of the boards of the first row, while expansion wedges are also installed along the wall.
	The second part of the board, from which a piece was cut to complete the first row, very often begins the second row (if the length of this segment allows). It connects to the first row of the castle, located along the long side of the board.
	Next, the second board of the second row is laid. The complexity of its installation lies in the fact that it must be fastened with locks to the previous and adjacent board. Some joints are designed to join the boards first along the length of the row, and then fasten the second row to the first. Others, as shown in the illustration, are first joined to the board of the first row, and then connected to the previous board. In the same way, the entire floor covering is laid. However, probably in any room there are places that complicate the work.
	So that the board lies neatly around front door, and the threshold was in its opening, at the bottom of the door frame it was washed down to the wall, as shown in the photo. However, the board does not yet fit into place, as it can be damaged by further actions.
	The next step is to mark the location of the threshold, which will press the edges of the boards in the doorway. To do this, it is necessary to lay a sub-threshold along the width of the opening, on which the threshold will then be fixed. Along it, from the side of the parquet to be laid, it is necessary to draw a sharp knife in order to cut off a strip of the substrate material, which will interfere with the tight fit of the footboard to the base.
	Further, through the mounting holes provided in the footboard, marks are made with a marker or pencil. Then the footrest is removed, and holes are drilled along the markings.
	Plastic dowel plugs are inserted into the holes. Then, a footrest is installed in place, which is fixed with self-tapping screws screwed through the holes into the dowel-plugs located in the base.
	Next, you can prepare a place for mounting the board, which will go into the groove cut in the door frame. Since the board, due to its installation in the gap, cannot be lifted and fastened with a lock, as happened during the installation of the remaining boards, part of the lock is removed from the already laid board with a chisel. This process will have to be done not only along the length of the board, but also along its width.
	Then, carpentry or other glue is applied to the cut sections of the boards with a strip, designed to fasten wooden parts.
	Now the board is slipped into the gap under the door frame and moves up to the already laid coating. The edges of the board are pressed tightly against the cut lock lines with glue applied to them.
	If necessary, the board to be glued can be knocked out through the beam provided for this, using a hammer, since there should not be a gap in the connection of the board with the main coating. Similar operations will need to be performed on the other side of the doorway.
	The next step is to lay the rest of the boards, leaving one edge into the doorway. They are laid with an edge on a footrest fixed with self-tapping screws. After that, the edges of the boards are pressed from above with a threshold, which is screwed together with the boards to the footboard. Thus, the edges of the boards will be fixed to the base, and also sandwiched between the two metal strips of the threshold.
	If you plan to continue laying the parquet board in the next room, then instead of a metal threshold, you can install a plastic docking profile. To do this, it is fixed on the base Bottom part, and after laying the boards, the gap between them is covered with a profile that joins with the bottom one. At the same time, it must be remembered that a compensation gap of 4 ÷ 5 mm must be provided between the lower profile element and the boards.
	Another rather difficult area for parquet flooring is heating pipes that go into the interfloor ceiling. Of course, you can finish the board by reaching the pipes, and also put a piece of floor material behind them, along the wall, but such laying will look extremely sloppy. In addition, dust will collect in the remaining gap, as well as between the pipes. Solving this problem is quite simple by laying the board in front of the pipes and noting their location along its width.
	Then the board is moved and laid next to the pipes, and with the help of a building square, a line for the location of the risers is outlined on it, which will cross the previously marked lines.
	Thus, points will be found at which holes will need to be drilled.
	To drill holes, you will need a drill bit of the desired diameter. For this version of the pipes shown in the picture, a 30 mm diameter bit was used.
	The next step is to cut along a line across the board. The cut should go through the middle of the round holes. Now you can assemble the resulting structure into a single coating. To do this, the cut off part of the board is wound behind the pipes and installed so that the semicircles are located near the back of the pipes.
	Then, waterproof wood glue is applied to the end of the board, after which, the rest of the board moves to the front of the pipes and joins with the segment, that is, it is pressed against the end on which the glue is applied. After that, the gaps remaining between the pipes and the board are closed with special decorative frames that look like donuts. These masking pieces have connectors that allow them to be split in two and installed with different parties pipes, and then assembled into a single structure. These elements will not only close the gaps from dust entering them, but also give the passage of pipes through the floor covering a neat appearance.
	Many craftsmen, who are installing parquet boards for the first time, have problems when laying its last row. The difficulty is that you need to manage to dock the board or its trimmed part with the rest of the coating.
	In case of loose pressing of the boards of the last to the previous row, it must be tightened with a special device called a bracket. It is inserted into the gap between the board and the wall, and then tapped on its second, bent up edge. Knocking is carried out until the board is firmly pressed against the rest of the coating and snaps into place.
	After pulling up the last row of flooring, you can remove the spacer wedges and move on to installing and fixing the skirting brackets to the wall.
	These details may be different shape, and they are selected depending on what kind of plinth it is planned to arrange the floor covering. The brackets are fixed to the wall with a step of 400÷500 mm.
	The plinth can have a flat or curly shape. Usually with it inside a cable channel is provided for communication. Therefore, before installing the plinth into the brackets, cables are laid into it.
	Now it remains to install the plinth in place. It can simply snap onto the brackets or be screwed to them. If the latter option is selected, then a blank strip is temporarily removed from the middle part of the element, which will open the channel through which the skirting boards will be fixed to the brackets. Then, a strip returns to its place, which will disguise the caps of the mounting screws. Important - the plinth may have a different design, fastened in a different way. But its fixation should never be carried out to the flooring - only to the wall!
	The last step with sharp knife the waterproofing material protruding above the plinth is carefully cut off. The knife must be very sharp so that the film can be cut easily, as pressing on the wall can damage its finish.
	The result of the work done will be a neat, warm and very practical floor covering that will last, with proper care, for many years.

Now, after careful study submitted above the material, you can proceed to the practical implementation of the recommendations given in it. As you can see from the step-by-step instructions, it is quite possible to make a “floating” laying of a parquet board on your own, having leveled and properly prepared the base for its installation.

And at the end, traditionally - a small video that demonstrates the process of laying a parquet board on a plywood base.

Video: Adhesive method of laying a parquet board on a plywood base

Installation of flooring is a very responsible process and not always easy, especially when it comes to parquet boards. Proper laying of parquet has many nuances, and an inexperienced person may seem an impossible task. But if you study the instructions in detail and correctly choose the material, do-it-yourself parquet board installation will turn out no worse than that of specialists.

The parquet board is a popular and demanded material, so it is produced by many enterprises. Not all of them can boast high quality your product, which means you should choose very carefully.

A standard parquet board consists of three layers:

• the front layer is made of expensive wood, varnished or impregnated with special oil. The thickness of the front cover is from 1 to 6 mm;
• for the middle layer, short spruce and pine slats are used, and sometimes moisture-resistant plywood. All elements of the castle system are also located here;
• the third layer is 2 mm thick spruce veneer.

: length 2-2.5 m, width up to 20 cm, thickness from 7 to 26 mm.

For rooms with a small load on the floor, a board with a thickness of 10 mm or more is suitable. For the living room, it is better to choose a coating with a thickness of 13-15 mm, which is more resistant to mechanical stress. If the floor will be laid on logs, and not on a concrete screed, you should choose a parquet board of maximum thickness.

Another criterion for selection is the number of lamellas of the upper layer. If the front layer consists of a single piece of wood, it is called single-strip. If the flooring consists of two or three tightly fitted parallel lamellas, it is already a multi-strip parquet board. Single-strip boards visually expand the room, look great in classic interiors. There are options for such a coating with chamfers at the corners, which gives the impression of a massive board made of expensive wood.

The most traditional option is a three-strip board with a pattern for natural parquet. Each of the three lamellas is divided into several segments that differ in tone. The segments can be arranged in the form of a wickerwork, parquet herringbone or in parallel, in the form of a deck pattern. This coating is very decorative, looks great in both small and spacious rooms.

It is necessary to lay the parquet board on a solid, even and clean base. Any defects, cracks, delamination of the base lead to deformation of the boards and reduce their strength. When installing this coating, a height difference of only 1-3 mm per square meter is allowed. So, to begin with, the base is cleaned of debris and dust, its integrity is checked. Deep cracks should be sealed with cement mortar, small ones are simply overwritten. With the help of the rule, the floor plane is checked, if necessary, a screed is poured.

Lay on a dry base polyethylene film or a special waterproofing membrane. Its edges should go on the walls by about 5 cm.

A layer of thermal insulation should be laid on the film; most often, polyethylene foam in rolls is used for these purposes. The insulation is cut into pieces along the length of the floor, tightly laid against the walls, glued together with adhesive tape. Instead of polyethylene, polystyrene foam boards and sheet cork are also used. The insulation layer has good cushioning, does not allow cement dust to seep in, and evens out minor defects in the base.

During the installation process you will need:

There are two installation methods: floating and adhesive.

The first option is the fastest and most convenient. In this case, the boards can be fastened with locks or glued together with ends. The locking system allows you to lay the coating in the most short time, besides, it greatly facilitates the replacement of damaged areas.

Step 1. Mounting the first row

First, measure the width of the room and calculate the number of rows of panels. It is very important to know the width of the last row: if it is less than 4 cm, all the boards of the first row should be cut to width. Start work from the corner of the longest wall from left to right. The board is deployed with a lock to the wall and placed on the floor.

Several mounting wedges are inserted between the wall surface and the edge of the board to provide a gap of 6-7 mm. The end of the next board is closely attached to the first and the grooves are connected. So they mount the entire first row, cutting the last board to the size of the room and not forgetting about the gap between the wall and the coating.

Step 2. Laying subsequent rows

For high-quality adhesion, the rows must be shifted parallel to each other by at least 30 cm. The first panel of the second row is cut in half and laid away from the wall. To connect with the first row, the board is taken with both hands, applied at an angle to the edge of the fixed panel, leveled and the lock is snapped into place with pressure. The remaining panels are mounted in the same way. To speed up this process, use a rubber or wooden mallet, carefully knocking the boards along the joint line.

Step 3. Cutting the cover under the door frame

When installing the coating near the doorway, a piece of board is taken and applied to the bottom edge of the box. They cut out part of the rack so that the board fits snugly under the box, and sawdust and dust are immediately removed. A thin line of the substrate is cut along the threshold, applied aluminum profile with holes for fastening, marking them on the floor with a pencil.

Drill holes for the dowels and fix the profile. Next, cut the parquet board, insert it under door frame, snap locks. At the end, a metal threshold is mounted at the opening, screwing it to the profile and closing the ends of the boards.

Step 4. The final stage of installation

When laying a parquet board around communication pipes, a paper template is used: a template is applied to the panel, the boundaries of the hole are marked with a pencil, and the desired fragment is cut out with a jigsaw. It is necessary to leave at least 1 cm between the last row and the wall of the room, otherwise floor deformations are possible. When all the boards are laid, the wedges are removed, the skirting boards are mounted, the floor surface is wiped with a clean cloth.

Adhesive installation method

With the adhesive installation method, the parquet board is laid directly on the concrete screed. In order for the floor covering to serve for a long time, the base is well prepared: carefully leveled, cleaned of dust, covered with a dense layer of synthetic-based primer.

The fastening of each panel should take no more than 10 minutes, so that the glue does not have time to dry. Instead of a sealant, you can use cork chips - it easily penetrates into the seams, insulates heat well, and does not let cement dust through.

Installation of parquet boards on underfloor heating and logs

The parquet board is very demanding on temperature regime and does not tolerate overheating. The maximum allowable value is 26 ° C above zero, and even then not for every type of wood. If the material is suitable for laying on a warm floor, this must be indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. If there is no such information, it is not worth the risk, because the replacement of cracked floors will be very expensive. The parquet board is mounted directly on the underfloor heating system in a floating way.

It is not recommended to lay such a coating on a water-heated floor, since if pipes break and burst, the parquet board will be severely damaged. It is best if an electric or infrared warm floor is installed - their design is more reliable.

Many people prefer to lay the flooring on the logs. In this case, you will need sheets of waterproof plywood and self-tapping screws for its fastening. Logs must be strong and even, located in the same horizontal plane. The space between the lags is covered with a waterproofing film, filled with insulation, and then plywood sheets pre-treated with an antiseptic composition are stuffed on top.

When using the adhesive mounting method, the boards are glued directly to the plywood, but if the floating method is used, it is recommended to lay a cork backing on the plywood. The laying process takes place according to the technology described above. In some cases, the parquet board is mounted directly on the logs. In this case, the distance between the lags is made no more than 60 cm, and the maximum thickness of the parquet board is chosen.

Video - Do-it-yourself parquet board