The phrase “hanging garden” refers us to the first tourist rating in European media - a shortlist of seven “wonders of the world”, which was compiled by Herodotus in his “History”. One of these wonders (which are worth a look at for an inquisitive person, and the ancient Greeks were very inquisitive people) were the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. As Herodotus was told, they were built in order to console the king’s wife, who was yearning among the Iraqi sands for her distant, flourishing homeland - mountainous Media. Of course, what can be arranged on a country plot will be many times inferior in scale to the splendor of the Middle East, but every summer resident is quite capable of creating his own miracle.

The main investment that hanging gardens require is time. However, you don’t need much more of it than when caring for potted plants. The list of necessary measures is standard: fertilizing, treatment against diseases and pests, removal of faded flowers and daily watering.

The main advantage of hanging gardens is space saving. Any of these are suitable for placement. vertical surfaces, to which you can attach ampelous (hanging) plants: walls of a house, fencing of terraces and gazebos, fences, pergolas and even lampposts. In some cases, metal frames and grilles are additionally installed. This type of landscaping, among other things, can serve as an effective and ingenious means of camouflage, hiding construction or finishing defects. At the same time, it is important to correlate the strength of the fasteners and the weight of the flower containers, especially if multi-tiered structures are intended to be installed. Ordinary garden soil is unsuitable here due to its density. It is recommended to use light substrates consisting mostly of peat, turf land, sand, agroperlite, vermiculite and fine expanded clay. Such a mixture most effectively ensures plant hydration and absorption nutrients. It is also worth paying attention to hydrogel as a source of moisture. As for containers for flowers, today, as a rule, lightweight ones are used. plastic containers and flowerpots. But for powerful flyers, baskets and cones made of metal mesh are purchased. To place vertical flower arrangements the most illuminated and well-sheltered areas from the wind are selected.

The undoubted advantage of hanging gardens is their mobility. In fact, this is a modular landscape constructor, from the elements of which you can form any composition. Vertical gardening leaves a lot of room for experimentation. Subject to certain rules, even a novice summer resident has access to a huge variety of options, which is determined by the types of flowers, their combinations in hanging flower beds, the distance between the ampels, cascading, linear or single (“flower clouds”) types of placement, etc. It is quite acceptable to make substitutions, create color and texture accents, and change the geometric order. However, we should not forget that hanging gardens are ceremonial elements landscape design and directly affect the appearance of the entire site. This means that they must correspond to the overall stylistic context. If horizontal flower beds and potted plants can form separate groups, then hanging flower beds strictly obey the initially set design guidelines.

The range of annuals for vertical gardens and flower beds is very significant. For example, it is enough to name the ampelous varieties of fuchsia, petunia, diascia, nemesia, balsam, lavatera, pelargonium, marigold, ageratum. At the same time traditional garden vines- morning glory, kobea, sweet pea, thunbergia - are clearly not suitable for hanging containers, since they need supports (otherwise they will not be able to give the expected visual effect). Herbaceous ornamental plants will also not be able to play their role properly, being lost among the bright floral waves of their lushly blooming neighbors.

Having studied the generally simple and few recommendations on how to make a hanging garden with your own hands, you can bring a whole carnival of amazing natural colors to the appearance of your suburban area. Which landscaping model to choose—luxurious floral carpets or individual “cloud” baskets, elegant potted collections or multi-stage flower beds reminiscent of waterfalls—depends on the chosen style and personal preferences. In addition, working with hanging gardens will be an excellent school for an amateur gardener. It will allow you to better understand the properties of various plants, show how to create advantageous contrasts and combine bushy and climbing species. This experience will be extremely useful when arranging horizontal flower beds and flower beds.

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Before building the roof of a house, you need to study possible options rafter systems and select the optimal scheme depending on individual characteristics buildings. Among the most common rafter frame schemes are layered systems, suitable for buildings with an internal load-bearing wall, and hanging systems, in which the rafters can only rest on the external walls of the roof. This article will discuss the components and design of hanging rafters.

Installation of hanging rafters

Hanging rafters are called that for a reason - in fact, they are constantly in a suspended state and have no other support under them except external walls buildings. Despite their apparent unreliability, hanging rafter systems are quite effective and are capable of fully performing their functions in spans up to 17 m long.

Of course, the hanging rafters themselves would cost little, but they are used in conjunction with a whole system, which includes a lot of additional elements that allow the formation of large units such as trusses or arches.

An example of a simple truss is a structure consisting of two rafter beams that are connected at the top point, thereby ensuring the triangular shape of such a truss. A rafter tie, represented by an ordinary wooden beam, is installed in the horizontal plane. Of course, it can be made of metal, but then it should be called cord.

The role of the tightening beam cannot be underestimated - rafters under load are constantly trying to disrupt the triangular shape of the truss, and tightening the rafters prevents this effect. In addition, the resulting bursting force is not transferred to the walls of the building, but occurs on the tightening itself, due to which the building experiences only vertical forces.

The tightening can be installed at any vertical level, but to do this you need to know exactly what functions are assigned to it. For example, when the tie is located at the bottom of the rafters, it can also be used as a floor beam for the floor below. If there will be a living space under the roof, then the tie should be installed higher so that it interferes with the arrangement of the attic.

When arranging large spans, the nodes of the hanging rafters will have to be further strengthened. If the span between the walls exceeds 6 m, then the rafters are strengthened with braces and hangers, and the tie should be made of two beams connected to each other.

The installation of hanging rafters can be carried out according to several schemes, and they are worth considering in more detail.

Triangular articulated arch

The type of construction under consideration is rightfully considered one of the simplest. Structurally, this scheme involves the creation of a simple triangle-shaped truss, which includes two rafter beams directed towards the ridge. At the bottom, the rafters rest on a horizontal beam; in addition, at the lower level, tie rods are attached to the rafters. For the normal functioning of such a structure, the height of the ridge must be greater than 1/6 of the span of the truss.

In such a scheme, considered traditional, the main load falls on the rafters, bending them so that they diverge in different sides. This force is compensated by tightening, which, working in tension, allows you to unload the rafter system. Puff in in this case not included load-bearing elements, so instead of wooden part It is quite possible to use metal.

To reduce the bending load experienced by the rafter legs, the ridge elements in this case are installed with a slight deviation from the central axis. This scheme causes the appearance of additional force with an oppositely directed vector. In addition to reducing the load on the rafter frame, this also allows the use of beams of smaller thickness - and this is a direct path to justified savings.

Most often, triangular hinged arches are used to create attics, and the tie rods located at the bottom of the structure serve excellently as floor beams. All the hanging rafter schemes described below are variations of the described three-hinged arch, in which additional elements only increase the rigidity of the rafters.

Articulated arch with headstock

This design is more complex than the previous one, but it can be used to cover spans longer than 6 m. The main problem of long structures is the long tension - it bears significant loads, so it bends under its own weight. To compensate for these loads, a headstock is used - wooden block, with the help of which the puff is suspended. If necessary, you can also use it as a headstock. metal rods, which have sufficient tensile strength.

Using such a suspension, you can install hanging rafters with a long tie, because its bending will be compensated. The main point when installing such a structure is that the headstock should not be subjected to compression, that is, it cannot be used as a vertical stand. Of course, the stand and suspension are structurally very similar, but these elements perform completely different jobs.

The main difference between the headstock is that it is suspended from the cornice assembly, and the tie is attached to it using clamps. To create a tightening of the required length, composite elements are used, which are adjusted by means of cuts and fixed with bolts. Before assembly, it is worth calculating the tightening of the rafters so that the design is optimal.

This design is rarely used today due to obsolescence. However, the ideas and principles contained in it still find application in other, more modern rafter systems.

Raised draw design

This scheme is mainly used when creating residential premises under the roof. The height of the tie in this case determines the height of the ceiling of the future attic. The tie in this design rises to the ridge part of the roof, and the higher it is installed, the greater the load it has to experience.

The rafter frame uses the Mauerlat as a support, rather than a tie. So that the roof can independently change its dimensions depending on external factors, the rafters are movably attached to special devices that provide the necessary freedom of movement of the structure.

When balanced loads are applied to the roof, the structure will be stable, but if the forces on one side prevail, the roof will be slightly overwhelmed. To prevent this situation, the rafters must be moved outside the walls on both sides of the building.

In an arch with a raised tie, the latter does not serve as a support. It is affected only by tensile loads, if an attic is built under the roof, or tensile-bending loads, when creating an attic. In the latter case, the tightening can be used for installing ceilings or insulating materials.

To protect the tightening from sagging, a suspension is installed. There are also nuances here: with light loads and a short length, the tie can simply be nailed to the crossbar and ridge, but for a long tie with heavy loads, several hangers and additional fixation with clamps will be required.

Articulated arch with crossbar

This scheme is structurally similar to the previous one, but there is one difference - instead of movable supporting elements for a hinged arch with a crossbar, a rigid fastening of the rafters is used, which is quite reliable. The rafters are cut into the mauerlat or attached to fixed support beams. Thanks to the change in the design of the support, the stresses occurring in the system also change - the main load becomes the bursting load, which falls on the mauerlat and walls.

The tie is fixed at the top of the arch, but instead of stretching, it now experiences compression. Along with the change in the nature of the loads, the name of the tightening also changes - now it is called a crossbar. Such an arch with a raised crossbar can only work under conditions of a small bursting load, and if it increases, the crossbar must be further strengthened by tightening it. The result will be hanging rafters, similar to a traditional arch with three hinges, and in this case the Mauerlat will no longer be needed.

Arch with suspension and struts

This scheme is a logical continuation of the theme of arches with headstocks. An arch with suspension and struts is used to span spans up to 14 m long - in such structures the load is so great that the rafters bend due to their own weight. To compensate for these loads, struts are used.

As a rule, the struts in the rafter system rest on interior walls buildings, but hanging rafters are used only if they are not available. The headstock, which is the only available support, helps solve this problem.

The structure assembled in this way works according to the following principle:

• The rafters bear an external load;
• The struts take on part of this load;
• The suspension stretches and tensions the ridge beam;
• The rafters are grabbed by the upper part and pulled down, due to which the struts are pressed.

For long rafter legs inherent in this design, a long puff is used. It is best to use a beam made from two rigidly connected beams. The tightening is attached to the headstock using a clamp.

Types of connections of individual elements and nodes

In order for the design of hanging rafters to be of sufficient quality and reliability, it is necessary to take care of the high-quality connection of its elements, choose fasteners for the rafter system that can last for many years, for which the following methods can be used:

1. Butt joint. This method is used to connect the upper parts of the rafters, that is, the ridge assembly. The rafter beams are cut at an angle, aligned and fixed using wooden or metal plates.
2. Lap joint. For implementation this method the upper edges of the rafter legs are overlapped and secured with a bolt and nut or stud.
3. Notch connection. Before joining, the rafters are cut to half their thickness. The prepared parts are brought together and fixed through a drilled through hole with a bolted connection. The same method is actively used for installing cornice units - a tooth is cut out at the bottom of the rafters, which is brought to the supports and secured with bolts or plates.
4. Sliding joint. This method of connecting the lower parts of the rafters is used in systems with a movable support. Special metal elements are used for connection.

Calculation of a hanging rafter system

A roof with hanging rafters should be calculated at the design stage - this avoids further problems. It would be best to order a calculation from specialists or use finished project, but if you wish, you can do all the work yourself using an online calculator or more traditional methods of calculation.

In any case, for calculations you will need to know:

• Area and dimensions of the under-roof space;
• Presence of an attic;
• Expected load on roofing system;
• Angle of inclination of slopes;
• Type of rafter system;
• Material for making the walls of the building;
• Roofing material.

Calculation of hanging rafters is needed in order to determine the thickness of the rafters, the pitch of their installation and the shape of the required trusses.

Installation of hanging rafters

When all the preliminary stages are completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of the rafter system, which is performed according to the following algorithm:

• First you need to mark the center of the roof and the height of the ridge, after which two boards with marks are placed on the gables;
• Next, you need to make a template for mounting the rafter legs, for which you need to take a piece of board and lean it with one end against the mauerlat, and the other against the height mark of the ridge, and make cuts on this board;
• Using a template, rafter beams are made in the required quantity;
• Prepared and processed rafters are laid out in pairs;
• First, the first truss is assembled, which after assembly must be installed on the gable of the building, using self-tapping screws or corners with nails for fastening;
• A second truss is installed on the other side of the building;
• A cord is stretched between the two installed arches, from which you will need to push off when installing the remaining trusses;
• All other trusses are installed sequentially, in compliance with the calculated pitch and level.

Having completed the installation of the hanging rafter system, you can proceed to the next stages of roof installation.

Conclusion

Wooden hanging rafters are quite convenient and suitable for solving many problems. Installation of a hanging system is quite simple - you just need to competently plan the future structure and carefully carry out each stage of its assembly.

In an effort to comfortably arrange their living space, many people prefer non-standard design solutions. They are able to bring originality to a familiar interior and provide additional comfort. These items include hanging chairs that you can make yourself.

What kind of hanging chairs you can make yourself

Among the variety of hanging chairs, there are models that you can make yourself. Such options will become the highlight of your interior. Besides, self-production allows you to bring to life an individual plan, which is based on proven and reliable designs.

Hanging swing

Unusual swing chairs are made from various materials. The peculiarity of such structures is their elegance, simplicity and the ability to use both hard and soft frames. These chairs can become stylish decoration country house, an unusual addition to the interior of a bedroom, living room, children's room or veranda.

Wicker cocoon

No less popular is the cocoon chair or egg chair. A special feature of the model is the presence of walls that hide interior space about 2/3. These chairs allow you to enjoy privacy; they are most popular among children due to their resemblance to a hanging house suitable for games. Typically, cocoons are made from natural materials intended for weaving.

Nest chair made of hoop

As the most popular homemade model protrudes a nest chair made on the basis of a hoop frame. This model can be equipped with many decorative elements, and its shape fits harmoniously into the living space modern apartments. A variety of weaving techniques are used to make a nesting chair.

Materials and techniques for making home chairs

When choosing the materials needed to make hanging chairs, first of all take into account the features of the model you are interested in.

1. Thick textiles and synthetic ropes are suitable for swing chairs. various types and wooden blocks.
2. A cocoon chair is made from rattan, willow twigs, bast, willow or bird cherry, which have the necessary flexibility.
3. To make a nest chair, you need plastic or steel hoops to ensure rigidity of the structure. And you can’t do without wear-resistant textiles, synthetic fillers, decorative cords for weaving and wooden blocks of different sizes.

To create the seats of hanging chairs, craftsmen use various techniques:

• macrame. The artistic interweaving of rope and rope knots gives the chairs airiness, providing an impeccable appearance;
• patchwork. To ensure the strength of the seat, the patchwork fabric is sewn on top of a dense wear-resistant material;
• knitting. The combination of durable cords of various colors allows you to implement unusual design solutions;
• Tatting. Thanks to their openwork, these designs look weightless, instantly attracting attention.

Remember that the materials chosen must be able to withstand certain weight loads. Fabric that is too thin or lace can tear under the weight of a large person. The fastening elements also deserve special attention and strength testing: chains, ropes, braid on which the structure is suspended.

DIY hanging chairs - gallery

A hanging swing chair made of fabric is a convenient addition to a country house Cocoon chair from thick fabric kids will like it Rattan hanging cocoon chair is strong and durable A hanging nest chair made of thick fabric is suitable for relaxing in a summer cottage A simple model of a swing chair is easy to make with your own hands An original handmade hanging chair will become a source of pride for its owners. A hanging swing chair woven using macrame technique adds coziness and comfort. An openwork seat for a hanging chair can be woven from thick cord Hanging chairs can be used as a cradle for a baby

Step-by-step instructions for making a hanging swing chair

A swing chair can rightfully be called one of the simplest models that you can make with your own hands. To create it you will need:

• 2 meters of dense fabric (canvas, satin, trouser fabric);
• a wooden stick about 1 m long and 5–6 cm in diameter;
• drill and twist drill (15–20 mm);
• carbines (11 cm) with a load capacity of 160 kg;
• rope for static belay with a thickness of 10–11.5 mm with a breaking load from 2600 to 3200 kgf;
• sewing machine, scissors, ruler.
• paint, brushes, iron and durable synthetic fiber threads.

Having prepared everything you need, you can start making an unusual interior detail.

1. Fold the selected fabric in half, then count 18 cm from the top corner.
2. Carefully cut off the resulting triangle (photo 1).
3. Hem all sides of the fabric cut, bending the edges by 1.5 cm (photo 2).
4. Create pockets for the ropes (Photo 3). On the long side of the workpiece, fold the edges 4 cm and sew them up using a sewing machine (photos 4 and 5).
5. Make two holes on both sides of the wooden stick at a distance of 5 cm from each other, and the distance between pairs of these holes should be about 80 cm (photo 6).
6. Thread a rope into the holes located closer to the center of the stick and secure it with knots. At the same time, in the center of the cable, also tie a knot necessary for attaching the carabiner.
7. Pass the sections of cable hanging under the stick through the fabric blank, and insert its ends into the free holes located closer to the edges of the stick. Secure them with a secure knot (photo 8).
8. Attach two carabiners connected to each other to a hook pre-fixed to the ceiling. This will ensure you can rock safely in the chair. Thread the cable into the lower carabiner.

The resulting hanging swing chair can be additionally equipped with soft pillows, providing comfort.

How to make a hanging hammock yourself from a hoop and fabric - video

Drawings and diagrams for a cocoon-shaped design

To make an original model of a hanging chair you will need:

• rattan or willow rods with a diameter of 10 or 15 mm, approximately 450 pcs.;
• a ready-made metal hoop, metal pipes or several thick vine branches woven together in the form of a circle;
• strong rope and glue, which will be needed for tying the frame;
• knife, ruler, pruning shears and awl;
• nylon cord with a cross-section of 4 mm, used for weaving the back (it can also be made from wicker);
• ropes, chains or cords for hanging the finished structure from the ceiling.

Beginners will need a ready-made cocoon diagram, which allows them to correctly calculate the dimensions of the future chair.

When manufacturing, follow the instructions.

1. Cut the vine, peel the bark and steam it, then beat it thoroughly. These manipulations will provide her with the flexibility necessary for weaving.
2. Then proceed to forming the frame of the future chair. It can be made from metal pipes or a slightly flattened hoop, if the final shape of the product should be oval. If using a pipe, connect its ends using inserts.
3. To the pipe, which acts as a frame base, attach all the remaining elements one by one. If the chair is mounted vertically, use rods 6–8 mm thick, the length of which should exceed the height of the chair by 250–400 mm.
4. Attach each of the rods to upper parts frame so that a gradual separation is maintained between them. In the middle of the back the distance should be 20 - 25 mm.
5. By bending the rods, give the future chair depth and shape. Make sure that they are reassembled at the bottom of the structure.
6. When using horizontal rods in the process of creating a frame, secure them to the sides of the workpiece. Install them at a distance of 20–25 mm from each other, then give them the desired shape.
7. To secure the vine, carefully bend it through the pipe in the direction from inside outdoor chairs. Secure the ends with a rope.
8. Weave the finished structure with thinner rods, moving from bottom to top.
9. If you need to braid the frame from horizontally fixed rods, start work from the middle of the back in both directions. Bend the end of the rod that is on the pipe and twist it around the base.
10. Press each new layer of thin twigs as hard as possible against the previous one.
11. Braid the entire basket. Bend the end of the last rod, tuck it in and securely fasten it in the main weave.

To give additional comfort to the seat of such a chair, you can use a thick pillow.

You can braid the frame in different ways. Beginners can use simple techniques that provide a firm base for sitting.

Simple twig weaving techniques - gallery

Even beginners can cope with such weaving Various schemes weaving can be used to make hanging rocking chairs Using twig weaving you can create a dense base for a chair

How to make a nesting chair with a knitted bottom

To create a nest chair that will become an exquisite decoration for your apartment or garden, you need to prepare the following materials:

• metal hoop with a diameter of 90 to 110 cm, a cross-section of at least 35 mm;
• 700–800 m of polyester cord with a diameter of 4.5–5 mm;
• crochet hook No. 8–9;
• slings - 12 meters;
• roulette;
• scissors.

Wrap the hoop taken as a base with strong twine, securing every tenth turn with a knot; this will prevent the cord from unraveling.

To create the bottom, you can use a variety of crochet techniques. To make such a seat you will need from 120 to 160 m of cord. The exact quantity depends on the knitting pattern chosen.

1. Start working from the center. Knit the circle as tightly as possible using single crochets and chain stitches.
2. Start forming the seat with 6–7 circles, after which move on to the back in the form of a knitted mesh.
3. Stretch the finished napkin onto the hoop, spreading it evenly over the entire base. The resulting structure should not sag. Attach to the hoop from the side of tight knitting, without cutting the cord.
4. Attach slings to the finished product.

Making a seat using the macrame technique

For this version of a hanging chair you will need:

• 7 threads of 6 m;
• 4 threads of 5 m;
• 4 threads of 4.5 m each;
• 2 threads of 4 m;
• 2 metal hoops with a diameter of 90 and 110 cm.

Having prepared the cords of the required length, proceed to attach them to the hoop.

1. Starting from the center, fasten 7 long threads in pairs at a distance of 6 cm from each other.
2. Continue fastening the threads along the sides of the warp. As a result, on one side there should be 2 threads of 5 m each, 2 threads of 4.5 m each and 1 thread whose length is 4 m.
3. Then start weaving the pattern from the center of the workpiece.
4. As a result of your work, you should get an openwork circle.
5. To prevent the cable from moving in a circle, secure each thread with a flat knot.
6. When knitting, maintain tension at all times, placing knots at 6 cm intervals.

If it is necessary to create a fringe, the length of the threads should be increased by about a meter and, at the end of the work, do not cut the remaining cord.

Additionally, equip the resulting structure with reliable slings and a soft cushion.

Hanging hammock chair using macrame technique - video

Hanging mounting options

Attaching a hanging chair can be done in different ways. One of the options is ceiling mount on the hook. Finished product suspended in this way can swing in different directions, but moving it to another part of the room is very problematic.

This method can only be used if there is a high-quality concrete floor or with coffered ceilings, which allow fastening directly to the beams.

No less popular is mounting to a stand, which can be purchased in specialized stores. This design is equipped with circular platforms that provide stability. The chair on the stand can be easily moved around the apartment and even taken outside.

Another option is axial fastening, which allows you to fix the structure between the ceiling and the floor. This method is suitable for decorating children's rooms.

If the ceiling in your home is not reliable enough and is hollow, you can install a hanging chair using a chemical anchor. This method involves injecting a polymer paste into the ceiling cavity from a syringe, after which the product is installed.

Simple options for making a hanging chair at home are available even to novice craftsmen. Unusual designs decorate the interior, giving the room originality and comfort. Good luck with your work and have fun creating!

Hanging chairs are an alternative to a rocking chair on runners at home and a hammock in nature. Comfort and gentle rocking will help you relax and unwind after a hard day. A variety of models and materials for manufacturing allows you to harmoniously integrate such a chair into any interior. And you don’t have to spend money on a purchase. Some models are easy to make with your own hands.

Types of hanging chairs

They produce a wide variety of models and designs. They can be made of wood, metal, rattan, wicker, transparent plastic. There are models that you can make yourself without any problems.

1. Swing chair. Fastening is carried out at two points. Due to this, the structure swings in one plane. There are soft models (chair-hammock) or on a rigid frame:
   • the basis of the first option is a soft fabric or wicker fabric, which is easy to sew, weave using the macrame technique or crochet - the ends of the panel are attached to the transverse rod with 4 slings, and it is already suspended from the ceiling or a leg stand;
   • the second option has a rigid frame made of acrylic, plastic, wood, rattan or metal in the form of a hoop covered with a soft base.
2. Nest chair. The basis of the design consists of 2 durable hoops. The model has a flat bottom and low sides, which are braided with cord, rope or tied with strong threads.
3. The cocoon chair (egg) differs from its counterparts in its greater closedness, often up to 70%. Back and side surfaces tall and connected above the head. The rigid frame is braided with suitable material or sheathed with fabric. Varieties of this model - basket chair and drop chair - are ideal for a child's room.

Hanging chairs of different shapes - gallery

Finishing techniques and materials

Such chairs usually have a rigid frame and a seat made of various materials.

1. Textile. An affordable and easy-to-work material, the density and strength of which is selected based on the expected load. A raincoat or tarpaulin will do. A chair for children made from old jeans with pockets and rivets looks original.
2. Knitted fabric. Craftsmen proficient in knitting or crocheting techniques can use their skills to create original chair from plain or multi-colored threads.
3. Macrame. Weaving from a durable cord will not only last a long time, but will also add a special flavor to any interior.
4. Vine, rattan. Chairs made from environmentally friendly materials will decorate any interior, but to work with them you need special skills. In addition, rattan does not grow in our country.

This is interesting! An unusual and very durable material for braiding a chair - a thread made from plastic bottles. This chair will not get wet, will not become deformed, and can be hung outside.

Frame material

The base of the chair can be made from different materials.

1. Gymnastic hoop. Suitable only for a child's chair; for an adult, its strength is not enough, since the cross-sectional diameter is 16 mm, and for the frame of the chair you need 2 times more.
2. Metal pipe. The product made from it will be durable, but heavy - at least 7 kg. To make it you will need pipe bending equipment.
3. Tree. The design will be durable, lightweight, and environmentally friendly. Since the material absorbs moisture and dries out in the sun, wood for outdoor chairs must be treated with impregnations. This will protect the material from rotting.
4. Metal-plastic pipes. Durable, lightweight and non-corrosive material. When using coiled pipes, there is no need to bend them. The ends of the segment are connected with a wooden or plastic insert and secured with self-tapping screws.

You should not use old material when making a chair: such furniture will not last long.

Hanging rockers made of various materials - gallery

Making a hanging chair with your own hands

A DIY hanging chair will look good in a country house or on the veranda of a private house. The easiest to make is a hammock chair. It can be done in several ways from different materials, but the most convenient and uncomplicated of them are macrame or textiles.

Hammock without frame

To work you will need:

• dense fabric - 1.5x1.5 m;
• durable cord;
• wooden rod for fastening;
• sewing supplies.

After preparing everything you need, proceed to the assembly process.

Swing on a rigid frame

To make it you will need:

• hoop with a diameter of 90–95 cm;
• durable fabric 3 m long and 1.5 m wide;
• zipper - 90–95 cm;
• strong cord or rope - 10 m;
• metal rings for attaching the structure to the ceiling;
• interlining;
• scissors;
• measuring tape;
• sewing supplies.

When all materials are prepared, proceed to making the chair.

1. Fold the fabric in half and lay it on a flat surface.
2. Place the hoop in the center, at a distance of 20–25 cm from it, apply markings along the circumference and connect the marks with a line. Cut out 2 circles.
3. On one of the blanks, make a cut through the center with a length equal to the diameter of the hoop, sew a zipper in this place.
4. Connect both pieces with a seam around the circumference.
5. Make cutouts on the finished case for attaching ropes to a hoop 10 cm long. To do this, fold the case in half and measure 45 ° C from the fold line in one direction, 30 ° C in the other, put marks.
6. Duplicate the marks on the second part of the circle. The distance between the cutouts in the front of the chair should be greater than in the back.
7. Seal the slits with tape.
8. Wrap the hoop with a strip of padding polyester and connect it with a seam to secure it.
9. Insert the hoop into the case and fasten the zipper.
10. Cut the cord into 4 pieces, 2.2 and 2.8 m long. Fold each piece in half and secure it to the hoop. To do this, thread a loop through the hole in the cover, and insert the ends of the cord through it and tighten them. Long cords should be in the front of the chair, and short cords should be in the back.
11. Tie a short and a long cord on the right side to one ring, and on the left to the other. Make strong knots.
12. Hang the rings from the ceiling, beam, or thick tree branch outside.
13. Place pillows inside or sew a round mattress. This will make the chair even more comfortable.

Instructions for making a rocking chair from a hoop - video

How to make a wicker nest chair: step by step photos

By making the seat flat and providing the structure with sides, you can get a nest chair. For this rocking chair you will need:

• two hoops made of metal-plastic pipe with a cross-section of 35 mm: for the seat with a diameter of 70 cm, for the back - 110 cm;
• polyamide cord 4 mm thick - 900 m;
• sling or strong rope - 12 m;
• a thicker cord to connect the seat and backrest.

To make this chair you need to know how to weave.

1. First, braid both hoops:
   • wrap the pipe with a cord (it is worth taking a cord with a polypropylene core, as it will help make a stronger binding);
   • Stretch the thread well (each next turn should fit evenly and tightly to the previous one);
   • every 20 turns, secure the thread, stretching it as much as possible and twisting it;
   • For greater strength, coat the weaving with glue.
2. Fasten at regular intervals double loop onto the braid of the hoop, pieces of cord folded in half. They should take up half the length of the hoop.
3. Using flat knots in a checkerboard pattern, weave the bottom of the chair, securing the remaining ends to the free semicircle. The tension on the cords when weaving should be quite strong. It’s okay if the hoop is slightly deformed; the shape will be restored in the future.
4. Connect the finished seat and the back hoop by tying them to each other with a cord in the front part of the structure.
5. At the back, connect the seat and the backrest hoop with two wooden spacer rods, making cuts in their ends for strong fastening. The length of the spacers is selected in accordance with the desired backrest height.
6. Attach cords to the upper arch of the back and weave from top to bottom. Attach the remaining cords to the seat and form them into tassels.
7. Connect the upper arch of the backrest and the seat with a thick cord parallel to the spacers, and then remove them.
8. Tie the slings to the finished structure. They also need to be made using the macrame technique from cords.
9. Hang the chair.

Weaving “checkerboard” using the macrame technique - video

How to make an egg chair at home

An egg chair (cocoon) is the most difficult option for a home craftsman. The design is closed on three sides, and the side surfaces and back close together above the head.

1. For work, you can use metal-plastic pipes, assembling a frame from a hoop and additional arcs. To give additional rigidity, the structure is strengthened with several horizontal arcs, the elements are connected to each other with self-tapping screws.
2. The finished frame is braided with cord using the macrame technique, sheathed with fabric or crocheted.
3. For someone who knows how to work with wood, it’s easy to cut the frame out of thick plywood.

Children's cocoon chair made of fabric

For children, a cocoon chair can be made from fabric. It does not take up much space, will fit organically into the interior of a child’s room and is not dangerous.

To make it you will need:

• 2 meters of dense fabric 1.5 m wide;
• lightning;
• pillow or inflatable balloon;
• sewing supplies.

The technique for making a cocoon is not complicated, the main thing is to follow the instructions.

Instead of a pillow or an inflatable chamber, you can insert a hoop into the bottom of the chair, then you will get a drop chair.

How to make a baby cocoon chair - video

Attaching suspended rockers to the ceiling, stand, beam

For any suspended structures the main thing is reliable fastening. The safety of those who will use the chair depends on it. There are several installation options:

• to the ceiling;
• to the leg stand;
• to a tree branch or beam (for the street).

If indoors suspended ceiling, then installing the mount will be problematic. In this case, you need to mount the structure before attaching the ceiling or you should purchase a special stand-leg.

Let's consider different options installation

1. You can drill a hole in the concrete ceiling and install a powerful anchor with a hook into it for hanging the structure. There are special kits on sale, consisting of an anchor, a hook and a chain. The fastener must support a weight of at least 120 kg.
2. The voids in the ceiling through the hole must be filled with a special solution made from high-strength polymers - chemical anchors. Such compositions are sold in tubes for construction syringes. Then you need to insert the anchor into the hole and wait a day until the composition dries completely.
3. For ceilings with strong floor beams or for terraces and outdoors, bolting is suitable.
4. For a suspended ceiling, it is worth purchasing a special suspension that has a bracket that is attached to the concrete ceiling and comes out through the suspended ceiling. A hook is screwed to it.

   The mounting bracket is installed on concrete ceiling, then a hook is screwed to it

5. The slings are tied to a tree branch with a strong knot.
6. The stand-leg can be purchased at the store. It is convenient because the chair is not permanently fixed in one place and can be moved, and, if necessary, disassembled and transported.

Drawing of a stand for making it yourself

You can actually make a simple stand-leg for a hanging chair yourself.

1. The wooden stand consists of only 5 parts, but it cannot be made without special equipment; all the parts are bent.
2. The most common option is a metal stand. To make it you will need metal pipe, pipe bending equipment and welding.
3. A simple version of a metal stand: the design does not require complex drawings or special skills.

   For stability, a simple metal stand is attached to a vertical support with a chain or cable

To fully relax, you don’t have to spend a lot of money. If you approach the matter creatively, relaxation will become not only the relaxation in the hanging chair, but also the process of making it. And the product will cause legitimate pride.

Upon entering any room, the first thing that somehow comes into view is the ceiling. From its design and appearance depends on the overall perception of the interior and the impression it makes. It is for this reason that designers try to pay special attention to the ceiling. Thanks to the development of technologies in construction and the emergence of plasterboard structures, the possibilities for creating unique suspended ceilings have become almost unlimited. Today, the abundance and availability building materials allows you to create suspended ceiling with your own hands without any problems, the main thing is to be able to use the tool and know how to make a suspended ceiling. Despite the ease of installation, it is impossible to do it alone, so invite a couple more assistants.

Basic design of a suspended ceiling

The design of suspended ceilings is single-level or multi-level metal frame, attached to the ceiling and walls of the room, which is lined with sheets of plasterboard with built-in lighting fixtures.

To create the frame, galvanized metal profiles PP 60/27 and PPN 28/27 (imported analogue of CD and UD) are used, parts of which are connected to each other with metal screws and special single-level (crabs) or two-level connectors. To attach the frame to the ceiling, straight or spring hangers are used, secured to the ceiling with anchors or dowels.

For covering the metal frame, gypsum plasterboard sheet (GKL) with a thickness of 9.5 mm, a width of 600 or 1200 mm and a length of 1500 - 2500 mm is used. Fixing the gypsum board to the metal frame is done with drywall screws. Recommendations for choosing gypsum boards of precisely these parameters are determined by the optimal combination of strength and weight of the suspended ceiling. Subject to technology total weight 1 m2 of construction will be about 13 kg.

Preparatory work: stages

As with any other construction work, before making a suspended ceiling, you will have to do some preparation. This will concern the surface of the old ceiling, creating a design project and hanging diagram, and calculating the necessary materials.

Let's prepare the floor surface

The ceiling surface must be carefully prepared: remove old finishes, repair

Although the suspended ceiling will hide the surface of the ceiling, draw a series preparatory work will have to. This will make it easier to install the ceiling and ensure reliable fastening of the entire structure. We begin work by removing the old finish, which we completely remove to the putty or plaster, and if there was none, then to the ceiling. Then we carefully check the surface for cracks, partially or completely peeled off putty or plaster.

If everything is in order, then you can prime and putty the surface, and then proceed to further work. Otherwise, you will have to carry out more thorough repairs, perhaps even re-plaster the ceiling. Ideally, it should be strong and flat surface, to which the metal frame will be attached.

Design project and suspended ceiling diagram

The creation of a suspended ceiling begins with the development of its design project. Today, thanks to various architectural programs, creating such a project takes very little time. These programs allow you to examine and select the most attractive future suspended ceiling in volume and color.

Our video review about what types of suspended ceilings there are:

On top of everything else, computer programs will allow you to create and print a diagram of a suspended ceiling with all necessary materials and their quantity. But those who are used to doing everything the old fashioned way - on paper - will have to work a little more. Creating a diagram and calculating materials manually is carried out as follows:

• The first thing you need for calculations is to measure the room and calculate the perimeter. For example, we have a room measuring 3x5 m. P=(3+5)*2=16 m. This will also be the length of the guide profile PPN 28/27. We transfer the size of the room to scale onto paper;

Example of a suspended ceiling diagram

Important! When measuring a room, you may find that opposite walls have different lengths. In this case, we take the largest value for calculations.

• the next step is to calculate the frame profile. The supporting frame will be made of PP 60/27 profile, which is attached to the ceiling in increments of 600 mm. For ease of installation, the length of one profile strip will be equal to the width of the room. We calculate the number of slats as follows: 3000/600 = 8.3 and round to the nearest whole number. To evenly distribute the planks, we place the first and last at a distance of 100 mm from the walls, and all the rest in increments of 600 mm. This step was not chosen by chance. The fact is that gypsum board has standard width 600 mm and 1200 mm, and for reliable fastening it is necessary that the edges of the sheets lie on the profile. We mark the placement of the profile strips on the diagram;

• Now you need to calculate the number of hangers. All hangers are attached to the ceiling in increments of 600 mm. All frame profile strips will require (3000/600)*8=40 hangers. We attach the first and last suspension at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, and all the rest in increments of 600 mm. In the diagram, we mark the place of their attachment with crosses;

Important! Direct hangers can be used in two cases. The first is when the height of the suspended ceiling does not exceed 120 mm, the second is when the surface of the ceiling is absolutely flat. Otherwise, it is recommended to use spring hangers and constantly monitor the horizon using a level.

• To add rigidity to the suspended ceiling structure, you will need to additionally install lintels from the PP 60/27 profile. The jumpers themselves are installed between the main load-bearing planks with a pitch of 600 mm. To fix them, a special connector is used - a crab. The number of connectors is calculated as follows ((3000/600)-1)*8=32 pcs. Why exactly 32 pieces, and not 40. The fact is that the first line of jumpers is installed at a distance of 600 mm from the wall, the second 1200 mm, the third 1800, the fourth 2400. The fifth row is the wall itself. Now we mark on the diagram the place where the crabs are attached and, by connecting them with a solid line, we get the location for installing the jumpers.

Important! There are two types of connectors: single-level (crab) and two-level. The difference is in the method of fastening and in the height of the final structure. Thus, the crab allows you to place all the profile strips on the same level, and the total height of the profile with gypsum board will be 27 + 9.5 = 36.5 mm. The height of the profile and gypsum board with a two-level connector will be 27+27+9.5=63.5 mm. In addition, the profile consumption in the second case will be greater. But which method to choose is up to the master to decide.

All that remains is to calculate required quantity sheets of drywall. Everything here is extremely simple, knowing the area of ​​the room is 5*3=15 m2, and the area of ​​one sheet, for example 2.5*1.2=3 m2, we get 15/3=5 sheets.
Now we calculate the number of screws. This must be done based on the following data:

• for fastening to the ceiling and walls, dowels and 6x60 screws are used, the pitch for fastening to walls is 300 mm, for the ceiling 600 mm;
• to fix the profile and hangers, profile and crabs, you will need a self-tapping screw LN 9, LN 11. For the profile and hanger you need 2 screws, for the crab and profile 4 screws;
• MN 30 self-tapping screws are used to fix the gypsum boards. The pitch between the screws is 250 mm.

In the end, all that remains is to mark the location of the lighting fixtures on the diagram and calculate the required amount of wiring.

How to make a suspended ceiling yourself

About how to install a suspended ceiling with listing various options installation, you can write a small scientific report. In this article, we will look at the simplest installation option, which you can do on your own, without having the professional skills of a builder.

Working with a marker and tape measure

Installation of suspended ceilings begins with marking the surface of the ceiling. If the surface of the ceiling is flat, take a tape measure and a marker. We measure the height of the future suspended ceiling without taking into account the sheet of drywall. We put 3 - 4 marks along the entire length on each wall, then take the painting thread and connect the marks in one line. This line will be a guideline for the PPN 28/27 guide profile.

Now we apply markings on the ceiling for the main profile PP 60/27 and suspensions. We retreat the required distance from the walls, put a few marks and beat off a line using paint thread. We repeat the procedure for all other planks of the supporting profile in increments of 600 mm. On the marked lines for the frame profile we mark places for direct hangers, as shown in the diagram.

Ceiling frame installation

We fix the profiles to the walls and ceiling, forming a frame for plasterboard sheets

Having finished with the main markings, we proceed to the installation of profiles. We start with a guide profile PPN 28/27 along the perimeter of the room. We take a hammer drill or a drill in our hands and, along the previously drawn line, drill holes for 6x60 dowels. We drill the same holes on the profile. For reliable fastening, drill the first and last holes 100 mm from the wall, all subsequent holes 300 mm from the wall. We drive dowels into the resulting holes and screw the PPN profile into place.

Important! During the installation of a suspended ceiling, you will have to screw in a lot of various self-tapping screws, so use a screwdriver. This will greatly speed up and facilitate all work.

The next step is to fix the hangers. To do this, take the suspension and apply it to the mark on the ceiling. It should be located strictly in the middle of the line and at right angles to it. We mark a place for the dowel and drill a hole. Then we drive the dowel inside and screw the hanger on. We repeat the entire procedure for 40 suspensions.

Important! The suspension can be secured with 1 or 2 dowels, it depends on how reliable the structure you want to get.

Now we fix the main frame. To do this, we bend the antennae of the suspensions down so that the profile fits freely between them. We bring the profile inward and fix it at the required height on the sides with metal screws.

Example: what the frame of a multi-level suspended ceiling might look like

Having secured all the profile strips, take a tape measure and mark the places where the crabs are attached. Then we place them on top of the profile with the tendrils down and press down firmly to snap them inside. Having done this, we proceed to cutting jumpers from the PP 60/27 profile. To do this, we will use a grinder or metal scissors and cut the entire profile into pieces. We take the size on the basis that the jumper will fit tightly between the main planks. Having cut the required amount, we proceed to installation. Place the jumper underneath the crab and press them tightly together so that the crab snaps inside. Having installed all the jumpers in this way, we align them in a straight line according to the drawn diagram. Then we fix all the crabs and profiles together with 4 screws.

Frame installation is complete. You can install heat and sound insulation, as well as lay wiring for lighting.

Rules for covering the surface of gypsum boards

We install gypsum plasterboard sheets to the ceiling frame: plasterboard slabs are attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws

We apply sheets of drywall to the prepared frame and screw it to the profile with self-tapping screws. We make sure that the edges of the plasterboard lie on the profile. For reliability, we fasten all the sheets apart. To do this you will have to trim some, but this is done very easily. First, cardboard is cut under the ruler on one side, the plaster is carefully broken, and then the cardboard is cut through on the other side.

After installation, you first need to putty the butt seams and the places where the screws are installed, then cover the entire ceiling with putty mixture

Video guide: installation of Knauf ceiling

The installation of the suspended ceiling with your own hands is completed, all that remains is finishing. To do this, carefully putty and level all the joints and places where screws are screwed in. We wait until the putty is completely dry, and then apply finishing layer finishing materials. Finally we install lighting fixtures. All work on installing a suspended ceiling is quite simple for beginners in the construction business. The main thing is to follow the work technology.