Metal tiles are unique material for roofing, it produces a durable and beautiful coating.

Fastening metal tiles is not difficult, you can even do all the work yourself, but for this it is important to know how to fasten the sheets correctly.

Metal tile covering ensures long-term use of the roof of the house, without the need for repairs for a long time.

Metal tiles are made of steel sheets and have polymer coating. Due to special stamping, the material has the appearance of natural tiles.

The most commonly used option is in which the overall width of the sheet is 1180 mm, and the working width is 1100 mm (about 80 mm of the sheet width is used to create an overlap). The pitch of metal tiles is most often 350 mm.

The bottom cut of the sheet is located at a distance of 50 mm from the lowest edge of the stamping, and the length of the segment from the top cut to the top edge of the stamping directly depends on the length of the sheet used, which is calculated according to the customer’s needs.

Parameters of metal tile sheets.

Metal tile sheets such as “Spanish Dune”, “Andalusia” or “Spanish Sierra” have figured cut, which is located 5 mm below the stamping line.

If the metal tile is fastened correctly, then all the joints of the sheets along the rows and waves will be completely invisible. Metal tiles can only be attached to pitched roofs with an inclination angle of at least 14 degrees.

Along with metal tile sheets, it is necessary to purchase the following elements: roofing (eaves, valley, ridge) strips, metal sheets having the same coating as metal tiles for the construction of various expensive roofing elements and aprons for pipes.

Necessary tool for fastening metal tiles

1. Stairs.
2. Roulette.
3. Hooks for gutters.
4. Hammer.
5. Screwdriver.
6. Long rail.
7. Cutting tool.
8. Drill.
9. Roofing screws.
10. Shoes with soft soles.

Rules for processing and fastening metal tiles

Scheme of fastening sheets of metal tiles.

To cut sheets, a tool is used that does not have an abrasive effect. You can use saws with a circular cutter, metal scissors, etc. A grinder is prohibited - this tool destroys the protective layer that protects the material from corrosion.

When carrying out installation work, you need to move very carefully on the roof. The shoes used must have soft soles. It is allowed to step only into the deflection of the wave and on the locations of the boards on the sheathing.

The sheets are fastened using special roofing screws (dimensions 4.8 x 28 mm and 4.8 x 35 mm). They must be equipped with an EPDM rubber gasket. The screw caps are painted to match the color of the metal tile sheets so that they are not visible on the roof surface.

During installation, the torque should be limited. cordless screwdriver so that after pressing is completed, the rubber gasket is only slightly compressed. If it happens that the torque is insufficient, it will not be possible to obtain the desired degree of sealing of the hole in the sheet by compressing the gasket. If the torque is excessive, there will be a risk of the screw turning in the sheathing and this will cause unwanted loosening of the fastening. In such cases, the gasket will be deformed and the service life of the coating will be reduced.

Particular attention should be paid to ensure that the screws are applied strictly perpendicularly, that is, the screw must form a right angle with the surface of the sheathing. All fastenings of sheets to the sheathing with self-tapping screws are made at the point where the wave deflects.

When attaching to the starting strip of the bottom sheet, you must use the step of installing the self-tapping screw through one wave. To the gable board end strip should be fastened using 80 cm increments.

Properties of roofing screws.

In places of vertical overlap, a short self-tapping screw with a wavelength of 19 mm is used to secure the sheets, which connects the sheets to each other. Screws should be screwed into the decline of the wave. The spacing of the sheathing must be checked every 5 rows.

Along the entire perimeter of the roof, a self-tapping screw is attached to the wave deflection. Then the screws are secured in checkerboard pattern, installing them in each lathing.

The consumption of self-tapping screws is 8 pcs/sq.m of covering; when attaching accessories, 3 self-tapping screws per linear m are used on all sides.

Accessories should be fastened using 350mm spacing per shear wave. When fastening along the surface of the slope, the self-tapping screw is attached to the upper ridge, and then using a step through one wave.

It is important, when fastening metal tiles, to immediately remove any sawdust and shavings that have formed from the surface. To do this, you should use a brush with soft bristles. If sawdust is not removed in time, it will deteriorate: it will rust and spoil the appearance of the coating.
During transportation or installation, scratches or other damage to the protective polymer layer may appear on metal tile sheets. In such cases, defects must be painted over immediately (it is better to use aerosol can). The same should be done at the cut points on the sheets. This prevents corrosion.

When laying metal tiles correctly, the second and subsequent sheets can be placed both to the left and to the right of the first. The fastening scheme is selected in such a way that it will be convenient for you when carrying out the work.

It is better to start installation from the side of the house where there is no need to trim the sheet and where there are no bevels. The installation must be continued towards the junction, which is formed by another slope, or towards the valley, which is located between adjacent slopes.

Scheme of fastening sheets of metal tiles

1. When laying a sheet of metal tiles on the roof, each subsequent sheet must completely overlap the extreme wave of the adjacent sheet and close the anti-capillary groove.
2. When installing with inserting a sheet, you must ensure that the edge of the next one is brought under the edge of the previous one. This method is considered easier than when the overlap is on top, because the subsequent sheet is secured by the previous ones (sliding of an unfixed sheet is avoided). But with this method there is a danger of damage to the coating of metal tile sheets.
3. Regardless of the geometry of the slope, the sheets of metal tiles must always be correctly aligned along the eaves line in the horizontal plane.
4. Before you need to assemble a block of 3-4 sheets, connecting them with self-tapping screws. The first sheet at the highest point is secured with one screw. As a result, it becomes possible to rotate this block relative to the screw. This ensures perfect alignment with the side edges and cornice. To create a block, it is better not to use more than 4 sheets, as it will be very heavy and one bolt may not hold the structure.
5. If the roof slope has a triangular shape, you need to make a marking in advance, marking the center of the slope, and then draw an axis through it. After this, the same axis is outlined on the sheets roofing material. During installation, the axes must coincide. The metal tile sheet is secured with one self-tapping screw at the top point. Subsequent installation is carried out according to the same rules as for rectangular roofs.

When fastening is carried out on triangular slopes and in the area of ​​valleys, all sheets must be trimmed. For convenience, many installers assemble a handy tool called a “devil.” To make it, you need to take 4 boards, two of which need to be placed parallel to each other, and the other two - perpendicular to them. The fastening must be hinged. The distance between the outside of the right board and inner surface of the left board should be 1100 mm (must be equal to the working width of the sheet). During operation, the sheet that needs to be cut must be placed on the “devil”. One side of the tool at hand is placed on the edge of the valley or slope, and the second is used to mark the cutting line. When using the tool, you must ensure that its transverse boards are positioned strictly horizontally.

Method of installation of metal tile sheets with hidden fasteners

If you use a hidden method to fasten metal tiles to the roof, then a self-tapping screw with a press washer is used as a fastening element. Since fastening with self-tapping screws will not be visible on the surface, you can use galvanized screws that are not painted to match the color of the roof. This method differs in that there is no need to make through holes - the self-tapping screw is attached to a special groove.

The sheets are attached to each other by engaging all the mounting grooves and protrusions that are located at the edges. The place where the self-tapping screw is attached is hidden by the installed next sheet. Thus, there are no through holes or fasteners on the surface. Of course, such fastening allows you to create an ideal roof covering - it is absolutely airtight and therefore will last a long time.

Method of fastening metal tile sheets with self-tapping screws to the roof ridge and eaves

When decorating the cornice, the metal tiles are fastened so that the bottom cut protrudes 40-50 mm beyond the edge of the strip. This is done so that water from the metal tiles directly flows into the gutter. To prevent the protruding lower section from sagging, the outermost strip of the sheathing is made 15 mm thicker than the others.

The option cannot be ruled out when a specially prepared strip is attached to the cornice, which will serve to drain water. If the length of the topmost cut of the sheet is more than 13 cm from the outermost stamping line, then a ridge board, which has an increased thickness, is additionally attached above the top board of the sheathing. Do not forget to leave a ventilation gap of at least 80 mm between the upper elements of the sheathing. Everything is attached to the deflection of the wave of the outermost row of stamping, using a step through one wave. If the cutting length is more than 130 mm, it is additionally necessary to strengthen the upper part of the sheet.

Method of fastening metal tiles with screws around pipes and other obstacles

When avoiding vertical obstacles, it is important to properly redirect the water that flows vertically and find a way to distribute it to the sides. In addition, you need to correctly direct the water that flows down the slope located above the vertical pipe, around the obstacle. Additional sheathing boards need to be installed around the pipe.

Important points when preparing and fastening metal tile sheets

1. Before installation, metal tile sheets must be treated with care. It is better to fold the material onto identical, even boards, using increments of 50 cm.
2. You should especially carefully select fasteners for metal tile sheets. Often purchasing high-quality material that can last more than 50 years, inexperienced roofers do not pay much attention to the quality of fasteners. Instead of purchasing a self-tapping screw with a special gasket, purchase screws and washers with regular rubber. Such washers quickly dry out and crack, and the tightness of the coating is greatly reduced.
3. Do not screw a self-tapping screw into the highest point of the wave and use a screw with a long thread. Because of this, it will not be possible to achieve the desired fit of the washer and, with significant force, there will be a risk of denting the metal tile.

The roof is not considered very difficult. But during roofing work, you should strictly follow the installation rules and all recommendations given by the manufacturer for installation.

Metal tiles on the roof are laid according to a certain scheme. The beginning of the work is the fastening of the cornice strip. After installing the main components, the metal tile sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws. Compliance with the order of work affects the quality and durability of the coating.

Installation of sheathing

The base of the counter-lattice is rafter system. For rafters, timber with a cross section of 50×150 mm is used. They are placed in increments of 60-80 cm.

Before installing the tiles, determine the pitch of the counter-lattice. To install the frame, bars with a cross section of 50×40 mm are used.

In the middle part of the slope, the pitch of the bars is taken equal to the pitch of the rafters. In the upper and lower parts of the roof, the tiles experience increased loads. In these places, the pitch of the counter-lattice is reduced to 50-60 cm.

The frame of the main sheathing is attached perpendicular to the counter batten slats. For installation, use an edged board with a cross-section of 100×25 mm or bars 50×50 mm. The sheathing pitch size is taken within the range of 350-400 mm.

Work order:

• Installation of rafter system elements.
• Installation of counter-lattice bars.
• Installation of the starting board along the eaves overhang line.
• Installation of bars or boards of the main sheathing.
• Installation of ridge and end strips.

Work operations are performed in the specified order. Violation of the sequence entails an increase in labor intensity and duration of construction.

What kind of screws are used?

To attach metal tiles to the sheathing, special roofing screws are used. They are made from galvanized stainless steel. For visual effect, the fasteners are painted to match the color of the tiles.

The screw head has a hexagonal shape. The tip is made in the form of a sharp drill. A thread is cut between the tip and the head.

Under the fastener head there is a gasket made of ethylene propylene rubber (EPDM) or regular rubber. It serves as a seal between the screw head and the coating. The sealing washer seals the holes and protects the coating from scratches.

For comparison. Metal tiles are durable and practical. The guaranteed service life of the roof ranges from 30 to 50 years. Bituminous shingles requires repair after 10-15 years of operation.

Hardware is screwed into the sheathing over the entire coverage area. When the fasteners are located in the upper part of the wave, screws up to 70 mm long are used. When located in the lower part, 28 mm self-tapping screws are used.

To increase the rigidity of the connection, increase the number of screws. Their average number is 8-12 pcs./m2. Screws are attached along the bottom edge of the sheet through each wave. The following fasteners are screwed in a checkerboard pattern.

Choosing a metal tile fastening scheme

The scheme for fastening sheets of metal tiles with self-tapping screws refers to the procedure for installing and sewing the material to the sheathing. When installing the roof, the following procedure is used:

• Install the cornice strip.
• A protective mesh is attached along the eaves strip.
• A protective comb is sewn on top of the cornice strip.
• The lower valley panels are laid along the continuous sheathing.
• They arrange pitched connections to walls and protruding structures.
• Install roofing material.
• Install the upper valley linings.
• Protective aprons are attached to the exit points of the outer parts of the building.
• Secure the end strips.
• Mount ridge strips.
• Arrange external corners.
• Cover the bottom of the cornice with protective grilles (soffits).
• Install passage and ventilation elements.
• They install stairs, snow guards, weather vanes, and transition bridges.

When laying tiles on the left side of the roof, each subsequent sheet is inserted behind the last wave of the previous element.

Installation of roof units

The fastening of roof units has distinctive features. The rigidity of the structure is ensured by an increased number of hardware and a reduced step from the installation.

Installation of curtain rod assembly

The lower edge of the eaves line is placed at a distance of 50-70 mm from the edge of the sheathing. This position helps melt and rainwater enter the drainage gutter. In this case, the sheathing is protected from splashes.

Self-tapping screws are installed at a distance of 50-70 mm from the stiffener of the elements of the lower row. To ensure stability from tipping over, the roof is attached to the sheathing through one wave.

Installation of the ridge unit

An aero element made of non-woven material is laid on top of the ridge beam. At the top of the ridge, the material is secured with staples. In the lower part, the product is glued on top of the sheets. For this purpose, the aero element has butyl rubber self-adhesive strips.

A ridge strip is installed on top of the material. The element is sewn to the bar from above. For lining, use 28-35 mm roofing screws.

At the bottom, the plank is attached through the roofing sheets. For fastening, self-tapping screws 50-60 mm long are used. Hardware is screwed into the upper segment of every second wave.

End assembly attachment

The end strips are attached to the gable of the building. Self-tapping screws are installed from bottom to top. The overlap of the end strips is 10 cm. The step size for installing fasteners is 30-35 mm.

Where are additional fasteners used?

Additional fasteners are installed at the junction of the sheets with each other. At the junction of the roof with chimneys and dormer windows the pitch of hardware is reduced to 20-25 cm.

A screwdriver is used to screw in roofing screws. When using the tool, monitor the amount of torque.

For information. Metal tiles are most effective on pitched roofs with a slope of 12° or more. The wavy surface and stiffening ribs of the sheets retain snow cover up to 1.5 meters thick.

If the force is insufficient, the sealing of the holes is disrupted. Excessive force causes the screw to turn in the wood and loosen the fastening. Destruction occurs sealing gasket and damage to the coating.

Installation of metal tiles with hidden fastening

Z-lock metal tiles are used to hide fasteners. Self-tapping screws are screwed through a special groove. The sheets are fastened together with a locking connection. Each subsequent element closes the previous connection.

For information. There are four main types of metal tiles: Monterrey, Supermonterrey, Maxi, Cascade. The models differ in the shape of the pattern, the size of the sheets and the method of connection.

For hidden connections, galvanized fasteners are used without additional painting. Usage simple self-tapping screws allows you to save money.

The roof with a hidden connection is highly airtight. The absence of protruding fasteners increases the aesthetics of the roof.

When laying metal tiles, it is important to follow the technology for performing the work. A simple installation scheme allows you to carry out the work without the involvement of specialists.

The sheets are attached in the lower segment of the wave at the point of tight connection with the sheathing. Screws are screwed into the upper part of the wave when laying the valley strips and the lower part of the semicircular ridge panels.

The quality of fastening of roofing screws affects the service life of the roof. The use of elements with hidden connections improves the performance and aesthetic qualities of the coating.

Reading time: 11 min.

There are a large number of roofing materials on the market quality options. Attaching metal tiles to the roof will be the most reliable solution to the problem among all samples. This material ideal for such a task as it exhibits amazing durability. On top of that, the new coating has a unique appearance.

Doing all the work is quite simple. You need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules of how professionals attach metal tiles. If all points correct installation will be done correctly, the ceiling will not require repairs for a long time.

General information about metal tiles

The composition of the most common roofing material is quite simple. Decorative tiles are based on steel sheets. During manufacturing, they are coated with a special polymer coating. The characteristic shape is achieved through a stamping process. Visually, this material is practically no different from ordinary tiles.

Transverse rows appear as waves in metal tiles. Specialists call longitudinal profiles rows. The material pitch is measured by the distance between rows.

The most popular sample has the following parameters:

• Sheet width – 1.18 m;
• Working width – 1.1 m;
• Step – 0.35 m.

The fastening of metal tiles depends on many factors. The length of the profile cut, the individual needs of the client and wooden sheathing roofs.

Typically, the distance between the bottom cut and the edge of the stamping is 5 cm. The distance between the top edge of the stamping and the cut is determined by both the length of the sheet itself and individual characteristics installation at a specific site.

Advantages of the material:

1. Metal tiles are considered the best option for roofing, since they fully meet the criteria of quality and reasonable cost.
2. With proper calculation and provision of accurate information about the project to the manufacturer, large volumes of waste during installation can be avoided.
3. The material does not make noise in the rain. If unpleasant sounds are observed, it means installation work were not done well.
4. The polymer coating of metal tiles can reliably adhere to the metal surface for 10 years. The majority of brands provide a guarantee for this period.
5. No water seeps between the sheets. The fastening points are hermetically sealed with gaskets mounted on self-tapping screws.

General rules for installing metal tiles

Before you start installing your roof, you should learn a few basic installation rules.

1. The first thing to remember is that cutting sheets must be done with a special tool. The point is that cutting tool should not have an abrasive coating, as it can significantly damage the surface. The most suitable option is a saw and a circular cutter. Scissors are also often used for cutting metal. You cannot use a grinder, because it melts the polymer layer at high speeds.
2. You need to move on the roof as carefully as possible. Stepping on the wave is not allowed. If you need to move on the material, then your foot must be placed in the deflection of the sheet so that it does not deteriorate. It is also recommended to carry out work in shoes with soft soles.
3. Fastening of metal tiles is carried out using special screws. They differ from other samples by the presence of a special soft rubber gasket. When screwed in, the gasket compresses, reliably sealing the hole. A characteristic feature of this fastening material is the ability to select the required color of the product.
4. If a screwdriver is used for installation, its speed must be reduced. Why is this being done? When a screw is screwed in with excessive force, sealing rubber may be pinched. Reducing the torque allows you to carefully screw in the screw without damaging the seal. Must be used low speed, because high speeds of the equipment can turn the fasteners in the mounting socket. As a result, the screws will not stick to the wood.
5. It is not allowed to screw in the fastening material at an angle relative to the metal tile. The screwdriver must be directed perpendicular to the sheathing.
6. The self-tapping screw is screwed into the deflection of the wave.
7. The spacing of the fastening material on bottom sheet- through the wave.
8. The vertical overlap of the sheets is fastened with smaller self-tapping screws in the areas where the waves fall.
9. Fastening sheets of any metal tiles to each other is mandatory! It protects the roof from gusts of side wind. Proper placement of screws will create a uniform plane. In order for the longitudinal joints to fit tightly, the screws are screwed in until the sheets are firmly adjacent to the sheathing.
10. Fixation is performed in a checkerboard pattern.
11. Often the consumption of screws is 8 pieces per 1 m².
12. How to attach a snow guard to a metal tile? The following calculation will come to the rescue - there should be at least 35 cm between the screws. This means that installation is carried out in transverse waves. The best option would be to install snow guards around the entire perimeter. It is necessary to securely fix these accessories above each dormer window.
13. After the sheet has been secured, chips and other waste are removed from its surface. Experts do not recommend damaging the protective layer. To do this, use a soft brush. If sawdust remains on the surface, the roof will begin to deteriorate over time.
14. In case of minor damage to the roof from the outside, you can use a can of paint. The damaged area is painted over to prevent rust. It is also recommended to paint over the cut areas.
15. How to properly fasten metal tiles with self-tapping screws? Using markup! She will help prepare the sheathing and calculate correct location sheets on the surface of wooden slopes.
16. The peculiarity of triangular-shaped slopes is that the profile will have to be cut off in the area of ​​the valleys.
17. Any type of geometry involves the creation small design from 4 sheets. They are secured to each other. The left edge is also screwed, and then the product is adjusted relative to the level of the cornice. The line should be as straight as possible. You cannot staple more than the specified number of sheets. The structure will be too heavy and, as a result, the level will not be able to be adjusted correctly.

You can find out more useful information in the video.

What screws should be used and where to screw them in?

First of all, it should be noted that for installation of this type Regular roof screws will not work. The main requirement is that the customer chooses only high-quality screws. The elastic should be both dense and soft. It should not have a porous structure.

Often this fastening material is presented on the market in galvanized versions with a hexagonal head. There are both regular varieties and colored metal tiles. The second option is considered the most popular because it does not stand out on the roof.

The most common mistake buyers make is purchasing roofing from a specialized supplier and purchasing fastening materials on the market. The quality of the products is completely different. Unreliable screws often ruin expensive polymer coatings.

The main feature of a quality screw is the ethylene-propylene rubber from which the seal is made. Its structure allows you to reliably seal the hole. Cheap equivalents are made of simple rubber.

In just 3-4 years, the unreliable material will show itself in all its glory. The rubber will begin to dry out and become very brittle. It does not tolerate sudden temperature changes. And with the location of a relatively small number of such screws on large area sheet sooner or later the roof may completely move away from the sheathing. The ethylene-propylene seal pattern can last up to 50 years.

It is best to fasten metal tiles with self-tapping screws according to a scheme that has repeatedly proven its effectiveness and reliability of the entire structure. There is nothing complicated about it.

There are two main ways where and how it is more convenient to screw in self-tapping screws. The screws can be screwed in from the bottom of the wave. In the first case, the problems of tightly fixing the roofing material on a structure made of wooden planks. You should retreat approximately 2 cm from the step. This calculation will be a good guideline for further installation. The second method is used exclusively for connecting sheets to each other.

The screw is screwed in so that it goes 2 cm deep into the sheathing. In this case, it is worth adjusting the direction of the screw in the center wooden beam. Ideally, the seal should deform so that it seals the screw-in point tightly. After some time, the gasket vulcanizes. As a result, the hole will be completely impenetrable to water. The attachment points should be as close as possible to each other.

Important! Most the best option Self-tapping screws with a length of 2.8 cm are considered. They are used everywhere when installing this type of roof.

It is not recommended to start installing a new floor if the home owners do not know how to properly fasten metal tiles with self-tapping screws. Many people make the mistake of choosing 6 cm long screws for fastening along the top of the wave. The problem is that such a connection is not rigid enough to press the substrate tightly. The washer compresses the sealing material too loosely. In addition to this, upper part the waves have steep slopes, which also contributes to poor fit of the fastening material.

It should also be noted that the method of fixing sheets at the top of the wave cannot be called effective due to the fact that such a connection begins to “play” in the wind. During sharp gusts of wind, a characteristic noise is observed from the metal profile.

Features of installation of metal tiles with hidden fastening

Today, a fairly common type of flooring is a material that has hidden fastenings. It looks neater than all other types. True, some manufacturers have significantly increased the cost of special technology.

How to attach such metal tiles to the roof? When installing such material, a screw with a press washer is also used. The only difference is that on fastening material you can save a little. Often, suppliers themselves offer to choose the usual type of screws - galvanized, without paint.

This roof also differs in that it does not need to be drilled through. There are special ones for screwing in screws. seats. Self-tapping screws are screwed into prepared grooves. The sheets are connected by a special mounting gear. As a result, all the correct metal tile fasteners are hidden, and the roof rests more firmly on the sheathing, maintaining the proper level of tightness.

Laying diagram of metal tiles

Before proceeding to laying a roof made of metal sheets, you should remember the basic installation rules:

1. The fastening of the material begins depending on the shape of the roof. Basically, the sheets are attached to the lower left corner of the sheathing.
2. Each sheet is installed one by one from bottom to top. The principle is to seal the bottom layer with a top sheet.
3. The cornice can be made perfectly even only if the first sheet is installed carefully and as carefully as possible.

By following these rules, everyone will be able to build new material on the sheathing.

So what does the diagram look like? correct fastening metal tiles? The cornice strip is installed first. After this, the lower valley is installed. Then the process of installing the tiles begins. It is the most labor-intensive, since the most important thing here is correct calculations and using a level.

Experienced roofers use a simple tool at hand - a devil. It is assembled right on site from 4 boards. The bottom line is that it helps to mark straight lines on complex slopes. The roof is quickly laid on the dash, creating a perfectly flat plane.

Installation ends with the following steps:

• fix the upper valley;
• install end strips;
• screw the ridge strips and external corners;
• install ventilation parts;
• snow guards, stairs, and transition bridges are installed.

Many companies offer the last point as additional option, since not all clients use these elements on their roofs.

The optimal consumption of screws can be observed according to the following plan:

1. The end sheets, as well as the overhang, are attached along each wave. This will help create reliable connection. A similar flow rate must be calculated for valleys and ridges.
2. The predominant amount of roofing material is fixed at a distance through one wave.
3. The metal tiles are connected to each other with screws in increments of 1 meter.
4. It is better to install additional elements using 3-5 self-tapping screws per 1 linear meter.

Now more about installation work

IN general outline the whole process looks extremely simple. This is due to the fact that ordinary available tools are sufficient to get the job done. But, as practice shows, many home owners do the installation incorrectly. That's why detailed analysis installation will allow you to avoid numerous mistakes and damage to metal products.

Stages of laying a metal tile roof

1. Cornice strip. These roof elements must be installed before installing the tiles themselves. The planks are mounted on top of special gutter holders for drainage. To perform this task, galvanized screws are used and placed at a distance of 30 cm. The eaves elements should be overlapped by 10 cm.
2. Lower valleys. The joints of the slopes must accommodate the valley. Therefore, it is laid before attaching the metal tiles. The basis, as a rule, is boards, which are laid out as continuous flooring. The use of waterproofing is a mandatory element.

3. Advice! A special seal should be laid between the lower valley and the metal tiles. It must have a porous structure and excellent adhesion properties.

4. Adjunctions. To create a perfectly sealed connection to pipes and walls, an additional internal apron is installed. The lower junction bar is applied to the walls of the pipes, and a mark is made along the upper edge. After this, a groove is installed along the marked line. The apron is attached from the bottom wall of the chimney. If necessary, the bar can be trimmed. It is fixed with roofing screws.

Fastening metal tiles to eaves and roof ridge

This stage has its own characteristic features. When it is necessary to install cornices, the profile sheets are mounted with a protrusion beyond the bar, approximately 5 cm. What is the purpose of this arrangement? The lip will allow water to flow down the roof directly into the gutter. If you do not make such a reserve, water will constantly fall on the wall or be blown under the roof.

To prevent the bottom cut from sagging, the outermost sheathing board should be slightly thicker than the rest.

Each sheet of metal tile is fastened slightly above the stamping. Basically, the offset is about 7 cm. When the top cut is located too high from the stamping, it becomes necessary to install a ridge board above the sheathing. Also, we must not forget about ventilation gaps. They should be evenly spaced between all sheathing elements.

The next step is attaching the metal tiles at the highest point - to the ridge. Screws are screwed along the outer row into the deflections of the waves.

How to install metal tiles around pipes and other obstacles

The process of laying material around pipes can be called one of the most difficult stages. This is due to the large amount of work. It is necessary to install a structure that can effectively drain flowing water to the sides.

As already mentioned, the apron will act as the basis. Boards are attached to the pipe, which continue the sheathing. The adjacent profile is cut to 15 cm in length.

The first stage of assembly is the installation of the lower parts of the apron. After this, proceed to the side elements.

The lower part of the apron should be tightly covered with tiles. Then fix the top apron. To ensure a tight fastening, use a mallet to level the sheets of metal tiles in certain places. Then you can begin installing additional accessories.

How to attach snow guards to metal tiles

At this point, we should consider in detail an example of how a snow retainer is attached to a metal tile.

The process is divided into several steps. Initially, a tube is inserted into the mounting holes. The next step is fixing the product. It is mounted using self-tapping screws, which are screwed into bottom part waves. The screw must fit securely into the sheathing, otherwise the protective product will not hold firmly under the weight of the snow.

It is better to install snow guards over all the main elements of the house:

• doors;
• windows;
• porch.

If a multi-level roof is used on the roof, then these elements should be located at each level. It is also recommended to install several additional snow guards if the roof slope is unusually large.

How to attach metal tiles to sheathing

At its core, the design of the sheathing is quite simple. It consists of wooden boards that are exactly the same size. It is also important to maintain the same distance between the boards when installing them. Before fixing the sheathing, you need to take into account the pitch of the tile sheets used.

Often, boards near the eaves and ridge are chosen to be thicker.

When all the calculations have been made, they begin to attach the metal tiles to the surface of the sheathing. The screws are tightened along a perfectly straight line, departing from the stamping 1 cm below. If the wooden structure was constructed correctly, subject to all requirements and rules of SNIP, the screws can be safely screwed into any chosen location. As a rule, the probability of not hitting the board is zero. When laying metal sheets, the technological gap is not observed. This makes it possible to securely fix the decorative tiles to the sheathing. The main advantage is that the material does not deform during fixation.

As practice shows, compliance with all stages of installation guarantees the visual secrecy of fastening materials on the polymer coating, since they will always remain in the shadow of the wave.

Mistakes that novice roofers often make

A fairly common situation is when home owners decide to carry out floor repairs themselves. The problem is that lack of experience creates a large number of errors. Moreover, they can be the most of different nature. This includes the wrong choice of products, savings on lathing, and lack of knowledge of the installation process. To prevent such problems from arising in the future, it is worth considering all the mistakes that clients most often make.

Wrong product selection

A reliable roof begins with the quality of the profile itself. It is necessary to carefully study all possible offers on the market building materials. It is better to opt for metal tiles with a price category above the average. Often in this segment you can purchase the highest quality products from world-famous brands.

Having chosen a certain brand of decorative tiles, you need to examine them for defects. They are highly likely to appear, since manufacturing problems arise constantly.

If no flaws were noticed, you can proceed to the selection of fastening materials. It is better to buy screws of the required length from the same supplier as the profile itself. And the color will match the chosen shade, and the quality will not let you down. Often the best quality screw seals are found from authorized suppliers.

Mounting error

This point is the most important, as it will help any beginner to complete roofing work Right.

The most common mistake is screwing the screws not into the lower part of the wave, but into the upper one. The result is that the sealing element is not pressed with sufficient force by the washer. This leads to the fact that water will very soon begin to seep in certain places on the roof.

Also, many problems with the new floor begin to appear if the roofers did not make preliminary markings on the sheathing. It helps to correctly calculate the consumption of fastening materials and accurately fix the profile.

Video about basic installation errors:

1. Always follow the metal tile fastening diagram. Installation begins from the left edge of the roof. Subsequent sheets of material are placed under the previous layer.
2. After fixing the first sheet of the ridge, the second sheet is laid in a straight line. When joining with an overlap, at the top point the sheets are connected with one screw.
3. If the top row of the ridge is not level, the sheets are raised and the sides of the slope are usually shifted slightly. This way they can be carefully placed in the required position. Then secure firmly.
4. If, during installation, through holes and numerous overlaps are formed, these places must be urgently sealed. For this purpose they use special compounds silicone based.

Stands out for its durability, practicality and attractive appearance. Covering the roof with metal tiles significantly changes the appearance of the building and gives the house a solid and elegant look.

It is made of steel (less commonly, of aluminum or copper) with a thickness of about half a millimeter, which is why the weight of the roof is significantly reduced - compared to slate - by 2 times. Material has a double degree of anti-corrosion coating- galvanization and a polymer layer that reliably preserves the metal for large quantity time.

Along with the coating, all the necessary materials are produced - roof ridges, eaves and window corners, valleys, gutters, etc. Several are produced color options, dimensions and profile pattern different manufacturers differ from each other, which creates the opportunity to choose the most attractive option.

In this article you will learn how to properly screw metal tiles and how to attach metal tiles to the roof of a private house.

For proper installation of metal tiles, it is necessary to build, which is a wooden substrate in the form of a lattice or a continuous layer. The lathing performs several functions:

• Provides fastener metal tiles
• Forms the necessary excluding wetting of under-roofing materials from condensation.
• Creates an even plane, compensating for possible unevenness, which facilitates the normal installation of sheets and ensures maximum service life.

The sheathing is installed on top of the layer, attached to the rafters in rows corresponding to. Fastened with galvanized nails to prevent corrosion. The material for its manufacture is edged boards, most often 25 mm thick. The material must be dried, free from flaws, rotten areas, and must not be infected with mold or mildew.

Two ways to join sheets

Fastening metal tiles with self-tapping screws begins with preparing the roofing sheets. Sheets of metal tiles are joined overlap by the width of one wave. This can be done in two ways: from left to right and vice versa.

The difference is that in the first case, each subsequent sheet is slipped onto the previous one, and in the second, it is placed on top of it. The choice of one method or another is dictated by ease of use, type of roof or other considerations and has no effect on the result.

Most often, both methods are used when working, whichever is more convenient.

When joining sheets between rows, they should not be placed in a checkerboard pattern., each sheet should be located strictly above the bottom one. An exception may be the single inclusion of a fragment of a sheet when filling, for example, a hip roof or similar areas.

how to fasten metal tiles on the roof with self-tapping screws: photo

All sheets, in addition to fastening to the sheathing, must be attached to each other short self-tapping screws along the joint line to ensure a tight connection and prevent wind from penetrating under the sheet, which can cause it to tear off.

How to attach metal tiles along the eaves line?

Most often, the cornice line is covered with a sheet of metal tiles approximately 5 cm. This overhang allows water to roll directly into the gutter, eliminating the possibility of contact with the wooden parts of the rafter system.

At the same time, in some cases it is necessary to place the edge of the sheet above the eaves board, which is caused by difficult conditions installation, the presence of steps or other violations of the geometry of the cornice. With this fastening, the water comes off the eaves corner, which is somewhat worse than the first method, but quite acceptable.

Fastening the covering along the frame line

The gutter and cornice corner are installed before installing the sheets to ensure proper water flow.

Fastening metal tiles to the sheathing with self-tapping screws

How to properly attach metal tiles with self-tapping screws to the sheathing? When installing sheets, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the material.

The fact is that the polymer coating is quite easily breaks when bent or pressed, causing the sheet’s protection to be significantly weakened.

One galvanizing layer will not be able to protect the metal for a long time; corrosion will begin and the sheet will fail. Therefore, it is important to correctly adjust the pressing force of the sheet to the sheathing. The metal tiles are attached to the sheathing according to the following scheme:

1. To calculate the approximate number of screws, you can use the following rule: For 1 square meter of roofing you will need 9-10 self-tapping screws.
2. If damaged during installation paint coating metal tiles, then the chipped area should be carefully painted over with anti-corrosion paint of the same color
3. If the self-tapping screw is not screwed deep enough, the rubber gasket will not fit tightly to the sheet, which will create a gap into which water will penetrate. Screwing too tightly will push through the material, the coating will peel off and the sheet will begin to rust. A way out of this situation may be to use a screwdriver with a given screwing force, or to constantly monitor the depth of immersion of the screw.

PLEASE NOTE!

Self-tapping screws must be special, designed for such work. They have a galvanized coating and a sealing gasket made of special rubber. The regular one won't do!

Installing metal tiles around pipes or other obstacles

The metal tile fastening scheme is quite simple, but there are moments that are worth talking about separately. All protruding roof elements must be lined around the perimeter with an additional row of sheathing, spaced 20 cm away from them. This is necessary to install a corner covering the joint.

Depending on the location of a particular element, it may be necessary production of specially cut sheets, corresponding to the size of the remaining space or reaching the next sheet, located in a regular manner. For example, this option can be used to form a drain for a roof window.

Correct pipe bypass with metal tiles

Manufacturers produce parts that correspond to all elements of the roof - internal and external corners, ridges, valleys, gutters, etc. Almost all of them have a single installation requirement - the presence of an additional strip in the sheathing, to which they will actually be attached.

CAREFULLY!

It should be remembered that all joints must be pre-waterproofed from external leaks, such places are most exposed to this danger. The roof ridge is attached on top of the sheets; its fastening also requires the installation of an additional board along the upper ridge of the roof.

The location of the screws is determined by the size of the element, or according to the rule - at least 3 pieces per linear meter. The requirements for screwing force are the same as for sheets - control and inadmissibility of pushing.

Common fastening errors

1. Metal tile sheets are quite thin. You can only walk on them in soft shoes, stepping on the lowest points of the wave at the locations of the sheathing strips.
2. The self-tapping screw must not be allowed to turn when screwing, as this will reduce the adhesion force to the wood many times over.
3. Installation of a pitched roof can be started on the right or left, whichever is more convenient, but if the roof is hipped, installation begins exactly in the middle, for symmetry in the design of the slopes.
4. The screws must be twisted strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, otherwise a depressed area will appear on the side of the slope.
5. Usually, the purchased metal tiles come with detailed instructions on installation. It is recommended to study it carefully, since all types of material have their own characteristics, which must be known and taken into account during installation.

fastening metal tiles with self-tapping screws: diagram and tips

Useful video

And now we invite you to watch a video on how to independently attach tiles to the sheathing:

Conclusion

Fastening metal tiles is not so much a complicated process as it requires attention and certain knowledge. Before starting work, you need to understand in detail all aspects of the issue, prepare materials and tools. Now you know how to attach metal tiles to the roof and can use this knowledge when installing the roof.

Independent installation of metal tiles will be successful only when a person clearly understands all stages of the work and understands the order and rules for installing all elements. Then the service life of the roof will be maximum and will not require repairs or alterations.

How to fasten metal tiles: fastening diagram and installation rules.

It would seem like a simple, insignificant stage, but in fact, fastening metal tiles is a responsible process with strict rules, which determines not only the neatness of the roof, but also its service life, reliability from leaks, and resistance to strong gusty winds.

To fasten metal tiles to the sheathing of wooden boards, special roofing hexagonal screws 4.8 × 28 mm with a rubber gasket are used, the caps of which match the color of the roof. You can purchase them together with metal tiles, and if they are in short supply, you can buy them in addition at the nearest construction market or in a store.

Tool for fastening metal tiles

To fasten metal tiles, use screwdrivers and a hexagonal socket for self-tapping screws. At the same time best option for a screwdriver - battery-powered. When using electric screwdrivers, metal tiles may be damaged in the form of scratches left by extension cords. This also significantly affects the convenience and speed of installation.

The nozzle for self-tapping screws is used in a size corresponding to the size of the screw head. As a rule, these are attachments with a magnet.

Fastening metal tiles

Initially, you need to adjust the torque limit of the screwdriver so that when the sheet of metal tile is finally pressed against the sheathing, the rubber gasket is slightly compressed.

You need to tighten the self-tapping screw perpendicular to the sheathing boards. With a reduced torque of the screwdriver, the compression of the gasket necessary for sealing will not be achieved.

Incorrect tightening of the screw

If the screwdriver torque is increased, the gasket will be compressed too much, which may result in reduced gasket life.

In addition, with increased torque of the screwdriver, there is a danger of turning the screw in the sheathing and loosening the fastening.

When attaching metal tiles, constantly visually monitor the degree of compression of the rubber gasket.

If a self-tapping screw gets into denser wood, for example, into a knot, with the “standard” setting of the screwdriver, the self-tapping screw may not be tightened. In such cases, it is necessary to increase the torque limit of the screwdriver and tighten the screw. Then restore the previously set torque limit on the screwdriver.

The main rule for attaching metal tiles to the sheathing

When fastening sheets of metal tiles, over the area of ​​the slope, screws are screwed into standard places located 10-15 mm below the stamping line - in the middle between the crests of adjacent waves.

If the step lathing is installed correctly, you can safely screw the self-tapping screw into any standard place, since there is guaranteed to be a board of the step sheathing under the regular place.

In this case, the metal lies on this board without a gap and when tightening the self-tapping screw, the metal tile sheet will be securely pressed to the sheathing without deforming the sheet. In this case, the screws will be almost invisible on the roof, since they are located in the shadow of the “step”.

Step lathing- this is a sheathing made of boards of the same size, mounted at equal distances from each other with a pitch equal to the pitch of the metal tile. The eaves and ridge boards of the sheathing may have a different thickness and can be installed outside the general rhythm of the step sheathing.

Incorrect fastening of metal tiles to the sheathing

The pictures below show typical common mistakes when attaching metal tiles to sheathing.

Self-tapping screw 5 mm from the edge of the board:

Fastening to the edge of the board leads to the fact that the self-tapping screw splits the edge of the board, making the fastening itself extremely unreliable.

The pitch of the sheathing is respected, but the step sheathing is displaced from its standard places:

When the gasket is pressed, the metal tile sheet is deformed (deformation between the stamping lines):

When the gasket is pressed, the metal tile sheet is deformed (deformation along the stamping line):

Rule #1. Joining sheets of metal tiles according to waves

Fastening sheets of metal tiles together along waves is intended to protect the slope plane from the effects of side winds and to make the entire slope plane uniform appearance. Screw the screws into each row below the stamping line to any place in the “sector” from the crest of the wave to the outer edge of the top sheet, as shown in the figure.

To ensure that the longitudinal joints of the sheets do not stand out on the roof plane, tighten all the screws of these joints until the sheets are finally attached to the sheathing.

Rule #2. Joining sheets of metal tiles in rows

The joining of sheets in rows always takes place on a step lathing board. Screw the screws into the regular places in each wave.

The figure shows the mounting locations for metal tiles by area ( main rule) and along the perimeter of the sheets (rules 1-5).

Screws are tightened along the area of ​​the slope with a uniform “breakdown” along the slope, moving, for example, from the cornice to the ridge through a row, screwing the screws into every third wave, with a shift to the left or right by one wave when moving to the next row to be fastened.

To protect the roof from wind loads, additionally secure it with self-tapping screws:

• sheets of metal tiles with each other when joining along the waves (rule No. 1);
• sheets of tiles are joined together in rows (rule No. 2).
• sheets of tiles to the sheathing along the ridge line (rule No. 4);
• sheets of tiles to the sheathing along the end lines (rule No. 5).

The total consumption of self-tapping screws is on average 8-10 pieces per 1 m².

Rule #3. Fastening metal tiles to the eaves

The most common method of forming a cornice assembly is in which the lower standard cut of the metal tile protrudes beyond the edge of the cornice strip by approximately 50 mm and rainwater falls into the gutter directly from the metal tile sheet. The eaves strip serves to protect wooden elements splash protection designs.

To prevent the bottom wave from sagging down, the cornice board should be 10-15 mm thicker than the rest. The center-to-center distance from the cornice board to the first board of the step sheathing is 250 mm with a board width of 100 mm.

Screw the screws along the eaves line 60-70 mm above the stamping line every second wave.

When using the second method of forming a cornice assembly, the standard cut of the metal tile is located on top of the cornice strip and rainwater enters the drain from the cornice strip.

This method may be useful for finding a way out of difficult situations, for example, when installing metal tiles with a stepped cornice and improperly sized steps or when the roof geometry is broken.

Rule #4. Fastening metal tiles when approaching the ridge

When installing the roof with warehouse sheets, the top board of the step sheathing will be the supporting board of the ridge. In most cases, you will need to mount an additional ridge board above the top board of the step sheathing, while ensuring a gap between the ridge boards of adjacent slopes of at least 80 mm to ensure under-roof ventilation.

In order to make it possible to place the ridge strip at the ends of the house on top of the end strips, install a sub-ridge support board with a thickness increased by 10-15 mm. If you install a ridge board of normal thickness, the ridge will “sag” down relative to the line of the end strip.

Attaching the ridge strip to the metal tiles

To secure the ridge (ridge) strip, it is pulled with self-tapping screws to the highest points of the metal tile sheets.

Since these points are located at the same distance from the sheathing, the ridge strip will not be deformed when the screws are tightened until the gasket is properly compressed. The distance between screws should not exceed 0.8 m.

Rule #5. Fastening metal tiles at the ends of the slope.

Screw the screws along the end lines of the slope into the standard (corresponding to the main rule) places of the metal tile in each wave.

Attaching the end strip

To secure the end strip, it is pulled with self-tapping screws to the highest points of the metal tile sheets every second wave.

Since these points are located at the same distance from the sheathing, the end strip will not be deformed when the screws are tightened until the gasket is properly compressed.

In addition, the end strip is attached to the gable board with self-tapping screws in increments of no more than 0.8 m. Since these screws will be clearly visible, they are screwed with self-tapping screws in accordance with the markings in order to maintain the rhythm.