Choosing a healthy seedling

As a rule, seedlings are sold with an open root system, closed and seedlings in containers.
The advantage of purchasing bare-root bushes is that you have the opportunity to examine the development of the root system. Seedlings of the highest category have at least three stems, medium ones - at least two. Pay attention to the leaves and shoots; they may show signs of disease. Root system should be well developed (the diameter of the root collar is about 8-10 mm). Carefully scratch one of the roots with your fingernail: the roots should be elastic and white.
Roses with bare roots can only be purchased during the main planting period, since even short-term storage can lead to drying out of the root system.
Seedlings with closed roots - more reliable option. Their advantage is the protection of the root system from various damages during transportation.
You can buy seedlings in containers. However, check the strength of the plant in advance and make sure that it was not transplanted shortly before the time of sale. The advantage of container seedlings is a visual assessment of the color and structure of the flower.

Choosing a place to plant roses

Favorable place: well-lit part of the garden. The sun should illuminate the roses in the morning, while during the day a light shade is needed to protect them from the hot afternoon rays. It is also important to know that varieties of dark shades cannot be planted under straight lines. sun rays- It is better to plant roses of light colors in this place.
Unfavorable place for roses: the northern part of the garden, blown by the winds, and also under the trees, close to the walls of buildings and fences. In addition, new young roses should not be placed next to old ones. If the bush is in constant shade, this leads to intensive vertical growth and further depletion of the plant. Cold wind dehydrates the leaves and shakes the bush, the solution is to install a hedge, it should be done so as not to shade the roses.
Favorable soil for roses. Light loamy soils, rich in humus, easily permeable to air and moisture. These are ideal soils, but are rare.
Soils less favorable for roses light sandy and sandy loam soils, they often freeze in winter, and overheat in summer, nutrients are washed out of them faster. To enrich the soil, rotted manure, turf soil, peat and lime are added. Heavy clay soils, where moisture is retained for a long time, also require improvement. Such soils should be drained and sand, humus, compost, and peat should be added. With a lack of oxygen, respiration and root growth deteriorate, and excess moisture slows down the development of the root system and leads to the death of the plant.
Unfavorable for roses, the soil is waterlogged, swampy, with a high groundwater level. Excessive moisture in the area will destroy the bush. Groundwater should not be higher than 1.5 meters.
Soil for roses is preferable slightly acidic, pH (indicator of soil acidity level) - 6.0-6.5. At a pH of about 7, the soil is considered neutral, at a pH below 7 - acidic, and with a pH above 7 - alkaline. To increase acidity, peat and manure are added to the soil, and to get rid of toxins, ash, lime or dolomite flour.
Swampy, saline and rocky soils should be avoided. In areas with cold climates and short summer Roses need alkaline soil.
It is not recommended to root seedlings in places where rose bushes previously grew. Due to depletion, the soil here can be infected with pests and pathogens. If there is no other option, remove the soil in a layer of 70 cm and fill in a new one.

Time to plant roses

Roses are being planted before buds open, as soon as the soil warms up to about +10 °C (in the south - in April, in middle lane- late April - early May). During spring planting, their roots are shortened to 30 cm. If the plant was purchased with already cut roots, the cuts need to be renewed. For park, climbing, and semi-climbing roses, the roots are slightly shortened and weak or damaged shoot tips are removed. For ground cover roses, only root sections are renewed. The shoots of tall roses are shortened by 10-15 cm, and of climbing roses by up to 35 cm. Immediately after planting, you need to shorten their branches above the sixth bud, and the stem shoots above the third. Floribunda roses leave 3-4 buds, while hybrid tea roses leave 2-3.
Roses planted in spring require a lot of attention: it is necessary to constantly monitor soil moisture and carefully shade the seedlings from the sun.
Spring planting is not recommended if the soil is wet and heavy: during planting it becomes even more compact and difficult to loosen. It is strongly recommended to plant standard roses in the spring, since flowers of this particular variety can hardly tolerate autumn planting.
Spring is the optimal period for planting roses in mountainous areas.
Roses are planted in autumn starting from the first ten days of September until mid-October - so that the shoots have time to take root before frost. If a rose with an open root system is being planted, then planting such a seedling earlier is undesirable: the plant will begin to spend too much energy on the growth of young shoots and buds, and as a result will weaken and may not withstand the winter cold. And if roses are planted later, say, at the end of October, they may not have time to take root, will not overwinter well and may even die.
At autumn planting cut off only damaged branches and the ends of broken shoots. You can also eliminate unripe shoots, leaving only 3-5 of the strongest ones. It is better to postpone pruning shoots with several eyes until spring.
Roses planted in autumn are pruned for the first time next spring, lubricating the pruning areas with garden varnish.
In summer roses can also be planted, but in this case the seedlings must have a closed root system.
Throughout the season You can plant roses grown in containers.
If the plants were purchased in the fall, but frost hit, it is no longer advisable to plant them; it is better to bury them in a shady place until spring, lowering them at an angle into the ground 10 cm below the budding site. Be sure to moisten dry roots by placing the seedling in a bucket of water for two hours. When digging, the bushes are watered abundantly, covered with earth, lightly trampled and wrapped.

How to prepare roses for planting

The day before planting, roses are placed in water for 10 hours. Before planting, the roots are shortened to 20 cm, and damaged ones are cut back to healthy tissue. Remove all dried branches and trim the remaining ones. In this case, five buds are left on strong shoots, three on less strong shoots, and weak shoots are cut off, leaving no more than 3 mm at their base.
Depending on the variety spring planting shoots are pruned as follows: for hybrid tea shoots - up to 10-15 cm, for floribunda - up to 20 cm, for park shoots - only the tops. In climbing roses, they try to preserve the lashes. Miniature, ground cover, bush plants do not need pruning.
For better survival, the roots should be moistened in a solution of clay and mullein (3:1), adding one tablet of heteroauxin, previously dissolved in water, to one bucket of solution.
When planting in autumn, the seedlings are not pruned; only the dried tops of the shoots are removed until they reach healthy wood; the roots are cut to 20-25 cm.

Subtleties of planting and preparing roses

The rose seedling is lowered into the hole and the roots are straightened. Consider the correct planting depth for grafted roses. The grafting site (thickening between the roots and branches) should be 2-3 cm below ground level. It is important that the soil fits tightly to the roots. The seedling is watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, the position of the grafting site is checked. If the ground has settled, the seedling is raised a little and soil is added. Then they hill it up to 20-25 cm and shade it for 10-12 days. After planting, monitor the soil moisture. In dry weather, roses are watered every 4-5 days.
If the soil on the site does not respond necessary requirements To plant roses and you need to use a potting mixture, the planting technique is a little different. The mixture is poured into a mound at the bottom of the pit, and a layer is sprinkled on top fertile land without fertilizers to protect the roots from burns. They put up a bush, cover it again with soil without fertilizers and compact it. Otherwise there are no differences.
Make a hole around the planted bush and, watering, fill it to the brim with water three times. After moisture is absorbed, the hole is covered with earth. Then the seedlings are hilled up so that all shoots to a height of 20 cm are closed - this protects them from drying out. After the sprouts reach 2-5 cm, the roses are unplanted, and the soil around is sprinkled (mulched) with humus, compost, straw or peat in a layer of 4-6 cm.
Climbing roses should be planted so that the grafting site is 8-10 cm below the surface level, which promotes the development of grafted shoots. After planting, roses should also be hilled. If a climbing rose grows near the wall of a house, then the distance from the wall should be at least 50 cm. The plant is planted at an angle to the wall.
It is recommended to plant a standard rose by attaching its trunk to a support, otherwise it will not withstand its own weight. The support is installed in the hole before the plant is placed there. The support must be strong and reach the crown to protect the plant from strong winds. The rose is attached to the support at the level of the crown firmly and so that the tie cannot slide down the trunk and support.

Rose planting process

Preparing the soil for planting roses

In the place where you plan to plant the rose, you should remove the weeds, dig up and fertilize the soil, and prepare planting holes. The soil where the rose will grow needs to be dug to a depth of 40-50 cm and large doses added organic fertilizers at the rate of 1.5-2 kg of manure and compost for each bush. Complete mineral fertilizer is also applied. Adding stove ash is also useful.
A hole for the rose is dug wide and deep (60x50 cm), so that after planting the budding site of the seedling is 5 cm below ground level.
For spring planting, it is better to prepare planting holes in the fall, for autumn planting - in the spring. If this does not work out, the pits must be prepared at least two to three weeks before planting. Fertilizers and fertilizing are required. Sand is added to heavy clay soils and dug up, and humus is added to sandy soils. 10 days before planting, dig holes 50 cm deep for self-rooted roses and 70 cm deep for grafted ones, and fill them with water. After the water has been absorbed, landing hole Place about three shovels of humus mixed with soil. A week after these land procedures, the seedlings can be planted.

10-12 days after autumn planting, the plant develops small young roots, which harden before frost and overwinter well in an air-dry shelter. In spring, such roses develop simultaneously both root and above-ground parts, and a strong bush quickly forms. They bloom at the same time as the old ones.

Hilling roses

Regardless of what time of year the bush is planted, immediately after planting its above-ground part is hilled up, leaving only the bush uncovered. top part shoots. This stimulates the rooting of the young seedling, protects it from frost during autumn planting, and from the hot sun during spring planting. If plants are planted in the spring, they are unplanted when young shoots begin to grow; if in the fall, then only after winter, when it gets warmer. It is better to do this in cloudy or rainy weather, or in the evening.

Optimal distances between roses

Upon landing large quantity roses optimal distance between them largely depends on the size of the bush and its purpose.
The average distance between miniature roses is 35-50 cm, between grandiflora, floribunda and hybrid tea roses - 60 cm, between climbing and park roses - from 60 cm to 1 m, between semi-climbing roses - 1-1.2 m. If created hedge, roses need to be planted close (approximately the distance between them is 40-50 cm), and to cover the gazebo and create an arch, one planted climbing plant. It is better to plant climbing varieties at a distance of 1-2 m near supports and arches.
It is not recommended to plant roses too densely: they will begin to get sick, bloom poorly and lose foliage. In addition, dense plantings make it difficult to care for plants, especially pruning and loosening. Rarely planting roses is also undesirable: in summer the soil around the bushes gets very warm and dries out.

Pruning roses

Roses need to be pruned annually in the spring, a couple of weeks after the insulation has been removed; the leaves have not yet blossomed, but the buds have already swelled.
Spring pruning of roses is called molding. It is done by removing the cover from the plants, approximately in mid-to-late March.
Pruning should only be done with a sharp garden knife or pruning shears. The cut should be 5 mm above the bud with a slight slope away from it. The shoots are pruned to healthy wood, to a bud located on the outside of the shoot.
You need to cut off old, diseased, dry and weak shoots. U miniature roses not only cut off old branches, but also shorten all shoots by half. In large and multi-flowered plants, weak shoots are pruned above the fifth or sixth bud, leaving the rest longer. In climbers, only a few of the strongest shoots are left. For standard roses grafted onto tall trunks, all shoots are cut off, leaving lashes about 20 cm long.
Roses that bloom once do not need to be pruned. In floribunda roses, cut off the inflorescences to the first shoot or to a bud oriented outward. Hybrid tea rose flowers are removed with two leaves. Ground cover varieties of roses and rose hips need only be pruned to give them a beautiful appearance. In order for the flowers of these roses to be large, it is necessary to remove part of the ovaries.

Good and bad neighbors of roses

Roses are like people - they do well with some plants, but not so much with others...
The queen of flowers feels great next to clematis; marigolds, calendula, foxgloves, crocuses, hosta, aquilegia, gladiolus, and petunia are also worthy companions. It would be very nice if edible or decorative garlic or lavender grew next to the rose. Their essential oils contain biologically active substances - phytoncides, which protect rose bushes from pests and diseases.
Poppy, lavender, narcissus, white wormwood, phlox, and astilbe will not interfere with roses. Tulips, lilies, daylilies, delphiniums, primroses and ferns will be neutral for her.
But next to heucheras, sedums, saxifrages, aster, iris, peony, pansies, sweet peas, Turkish cloves, and cereals, the rose feels very bad - they oppress it.

Rose propagation

Roses for the garden can be propagated by grafting (this is the method mainly practiced in Ukraine), as well as by layering, suckers, division, and cuttings. Roses are also grafted. We will describe other methods.
Graft. Roses are grafted (by cutting or eye) onto rootstocks, which are grown from cuttings or rosehip seeds. The rootstock must have a powerful, well-branched root system, not produce wild growth, be frost-, drought- and moisture-resistant, durable and compatible with the scion. The main method of budding is through a T-shaped incision. It is better to do this vaccination in mid-July.
First, the root collar of the rootstock is freed from the soil and thoroughly wiped with a piece of cloth. Then a T-shaped cut is made on the root collar of the rootstock. The vertical line should be about 2.5 cm, the horizontal line should be about 1 cm. The bark is moved apart so that it is easy to insert the shield with the kidney.
The next step: from cuttings cut from the middle part of mature shoots, from the bottom up we cut off a shield (a piece of bark with a dormant bud) with a small layer of wood, which we immediately remove. We insert the shield with the kidney into the T-shaped incision. We cut off the upper, protruding part of the shield at the level of the horizontal cut. After this, we wrap the grafting site tightly with budding film. After three weeks, we check the kidney for survival. If it does not turn black, but remains green and slightly swollen, the budding went well. Before the onset of cold weather, grafted plants must be covered with earth approximately 7 cm above the budding, and early spring spread a little below the grafting site. The upper part of the rootstock, departing about 1 cm from the graft, is cut into a spike and the budding film is removed. After a couple of weeks, the bud begins to actively develop and a shoot appears. To form a bush, we pinch the shoots above the third or fourth leaf.

By layering Almost all types of roses are propagated, but this method is best suited for ground cover and climbing roses. In spring, a one-year-old stem is bent from the bush. In the part that will be in the ground, make a small cut in the bark directly at the eye, which will stimulate root formation. Then the stem is bent to the ground, placed in a groove 10 cm deep, pinned, covered with fertile soil and watered regularly. The upper part of the stem with two or three buds should be above the ground in a vertical position. To stimulate tillering, the stem is pinched during growth. Next spring The cuttings can already be separated from the mother bush and replanted.
Offspring. This is how park own-rooted roses are usually propagated, which are capable of producing root suckers, formed during a period of intensive growth and extending from the main bush in the form of vertical shoots. In the spring, after the soil has thawed, they are dug up, processed and planted in another place.
Dividing the bush- the optimal way to propagate mainly climbing, park and miniature roses. In early spring, when the buds have not yet begun to grow, the bush is dug up and divided into parts. The root system must be preserved on each part. The plants are then planted on permanent place.
Cuttings- the simplest and affordable way reproduction. Well suited for climbing, miniature, ground cover, scrub, grandiflora, and some hybrid tea roses. There are several types of cuttings: green cuttings, lignified and root cuttings.
Green cuttings also called summer. Roses are propagated during the budding period. Well-developed, but not too thick annual shoots from flowering, semi-lignified shoots during the flowering period are suitable. Using a sharp knife, cut cuttings 5-8 cm long, with two or three buds. Bottom sheet removed and an oblique cut is made under its kidney at a distance of 1.5-2 mm. The upper cut is made 1 cm above the bud. Next, the cuttings are treated with any fungicide to prevent fungal diseases, and then with a substance that stimulates root formation. You can root cuttings in greenhouses or indoors in pots under glass jars or glasses. The prepared substrate is treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Cuttings are planted at an angle to a depth of 1.5-2 cm at a distance of 3-6 cm from each other, and rows - at 8-10 cm. The optimal air temperature for successful rooting is 22-25 ° C with a humidity of 80-90%. Periodically, the cuttings must be sprayed, but do not over-moisten the soil, so that the cuttings do not die from waterlogging.
As soon as the first leaves appear, the jars are removed and the cuttings are gradually hardened. When the bush becomes stronger, it is transplanted to a permanent place.
Propagation by lignified cuttings. Well suited for climbing and miniature roses. Lignified cuttings are harvested in the fall, during pruning of roses. For harvesting, take well-developed and ripened, smooth annual stems 4-5 mm thick. The upper part of the shoot is removed. Cuttings are cut sharp knife or a well-sharpened pruner, up to 20 cm long, with three to four buds each. The cut at the lower end of the cutting is made just under the bud; in the upper part of the cutting, the cut should be made obliquely in the middle of the internodes (at an equal distance between the buds). The cuttings are tied into bundles, arranged according to variety, wrapped in burlap and stored in damp sand until spring at a temperature of 1-2 °C. In the spring they are taken out, the sections are renewed and immediately lowered into water. Having taken it out of the water, plant it obliquely in the soil and water it. Only the upper bud remains visible. After planting, the cuttings are covered with jars or film. When the cutting takes root, the shelter is removed.
Propagation by semi-lignified cuttings It is carried out when at the base of young shoots the wood begins to ripen, harden and the bark turns brown. For cuttings, use the middle part of semi-lignified shoots at the flowering stage. Cuttings are harvested 7-10 cm long with 2-3 leaves. Before planting the cuttings, the substrate is watered. The prepared cuttings are planted in the ground to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. The boxes are placed in a dark place and covered with film. During the rooting period it is important high humidity air, optimal temperature(20-22 °C), diffused sunlight. Cuttings take root in 3-4 weeks.
Root cuttings harvested from the underground parts of suckers that remain in the ground in the form of rhizomes, or from the underground parts of rose bushes. The collected rhizomes are temporarily buried in a basement or empty greenhouse, and in November they are cut into pieces 3 cm long, placed in boxes filled with soil, and leaf humus is added. Sprinkle about 1 cm of earth on top. For the winter, the boxes are put in a cool place. The soil should be moderately moist. In early spring, boxes with cuttings are placed in a cold greenhouse, where their root system begins to develop and green shoots with leaves appear. In April, the cuttings are planted in a greenhouse or soil.

Please note

Usually in the first year all cuttings still have a weak and shallow root system. Therefore, in winter it is better to store them in a basement or cellar at a temperature of 0-5 °C. And only in spring are roses planted in beds for growing or in a permanent place. You can feed young seedlings from cuttings with mineral fertilizers only when they take root and begin to grow.

Watering roses

In summer, roses are watered with settled and heated water: twice a week for young bushes, once for adults. After watering and loosening, mulching is done - the ground around the bushes is covered with a 5-8 cm layer of loose organic material. This will prevent evaporation and retain moisture in the soil during summer drought, reducing the number of weeds.

The structure of a rose bush

1. Flower. 2. Escape with a flower. 3. Bud. 4. Fruit. 5. Imparipinnate leaf. 6. Five-lobed leaf. 7. Young one-year shoot. 8. Perennial woody shoot. 9. Axillary bud (eye). 10. Wild shoot or top from the rootstock. 11. Place of vaccination. 12. Root collar. 13. Rhizome. 14. Main root. 15. Lateral roots.
A rose bush consists of an above-ground part - the crown, and an underground part - the root system. The crown consists of last year's shoots, which are called skeletal shoots. Shoots formed from their buds in the current season are designated as first order shoots. In turn, shoots of the second order are formed from their buds, etc. In most varieties of roses, powerful replacement shoots (wen) grow from the lower buds of last year's shoots or from the root collar. In subsequent years they will form the basis of the bush. At the end of summer, the rose bush is represented by skeletal shoots and one-year shoots - I, II and III orders. The root system of roses is fibrous and, as a rule, goes into the soil to a depth of 50-60 cm.

Rose diseases

The most common diseases of roses: powdery mildew, rust and black spot.
Powdery mildew on roses is a disease that affects young shoots, leaves, and buds. They become covered with a white coating, the leaves curl, and the shoots become bent. To cure the plant, in the fall all affected shoots must be cut off, the leaves burned, and the soil dug up. In spring, dormant buds are sprayed with 2% copper sulfate(200 g per 10 liters of water) or 3% iron sulfate(300 g per 10 liters of water).
Rust on roses. This diagnosis is given to a rose if rusty spots appear on it, and on its lower part there are bright orange pads (an accumulation of fungal spores), which turn black by autumn and the leaves fall off. Shoots affected by rust are pruned. Early spring, before When buds open, the plants and the soil around them are sprayed with any fungicide containing copper. Spray 1% in summer Bordeaux mixture(100 g per 10 liters of water) or treated with the drug.
Black spot on roses- These are small round brown or black spots with a yellow halo. Over time, they merge, covering almost the entire leaf blade and causing premature leaf fall. When a disease is detected, diseased fallen leaves are immediately collected and burned. In autumn, plants are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (40 g of potassium salt and double superphosphate per 10 liters of water), watering only at the roots. And in the spring, before the buds bloom, the bushes and the soil around them are sprayed with 2-3% Bordeaux mixture (200-300 g per 10 liters of water) or 3% iron sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water).

Rose pests

Pests are a big problem for roses. The most common of them: rose aphid, spider mite, scale insect, rose sawfly.
Larvae and adult insects settle on leaves and ends of shoots, suck sap and cause deformation. In damaged plants, the buds do not open. The pest develops in ten or more generations.
To prevent the progression of the disease, the plant is provided with an influx of fresh air, observe the dosage of nitrogen-containing drugs. If the leaves are affected, they are removed and the plant is sprayed with a soap solution or nettle infusion. Avoid the use of chemicals.
These flying insects suck the juice from the buds that are ready to bloom. Damaged petals become deformed and brown spots appear on them.
Spider mite. When a mite appears, a web is visible on the underside of the leaf, and the top is covered with yellow dots. Method of control: treatment with a decoction of field ivy, acaricides Sunmite and Caesar.
Shchitovka can settle on both dry and wet areas. It leaves discharge on the plant, on which fungus subsequently appears.
Control method: treatment with paraffin or mineral oil.
To combat thrips, spider mite and scale insects, plants are treated with infusions and solutions.
Rose sawfly. Its larvae overwinter in the soil under rose bushes in a silk cocoon. In June, adult sawflies emerge from the pupae, and the female lays eggs under the skin of the young shoot. In these places the skin cracks and the shoot becomes bent. The larvae feed on leaves, eating them from the edges without touching the veins. Method of control: if a plant is damaged by a sawfly, treat the bushes with a solution of one of the following drugs: “Fufanon” (10 g per 10 l of water), “Inta-Vir” or “Iskra” (1 tablet per 10 l of water). Preventive spraying is carried out before buds open. In the fall, you should collect and burn all plant debris and dig up the ground under the bushes.

Sheltering roses for the winter

In September, watering and fertilizing are reduced. Before covering (before frost), it is better to remove (cut) the leaves. Roses are covered by hilling up to a height of 40 cm with earth, or they are wrapped in agrofibre. Climbing roses are removed, placed on material that will protect the shoots from moisture, and wrapped. Standard roses are bent to the ground before wrapping. Almost all varieties of park roses do not need shelter.

Fertilizer and feeding

Since roses can grow in one place for many years, before planting the soil is well filled with fertilizers - for each square meter add 6-8 kg of humus, up to 200 g wood ash, up to 20 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium salt. Roses should be fed with mineral fertilizers when the seedlings take root and begin to grow. At the end of May - beginning of June, you can apply nitrogen fertilizer (15-20 g/m2), at the end of June and July - nitrophoska (20 g/m2), in August - superphosphate (40 g/m2) and potassium salt (20 g/m2). This is the main feeding before flowering. If the rose was fertilized with nitrogen-containing preparations, then from mid-July they are no longer applied. Until mid-July, roses are fertilized with magnesium sulfate (20 g/10 l). This is the time for cutting roses.

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Rose is a beautiful, delicate, feminine flower. Genus ornamental shrubs Rosaceae family. Roses are planted in groups, on ridges, borders, and also in single plantings.

Of no small importance is correct landing rose seedlings, which ensures optimal growth and development of plants. Features of planting roses include the choice of planting site, the composition and preparation of the soil, as well as the basic rules for planting rose seedlings.

Roses grow successfully in one place for up to ten years. An area facing south and protected from north winds is allocated for them. Roses are not grown in complete shade, on steep northern slopes, or under trees.

Preparing roses for planting

Soil for roses.

Roses develop well on fairly breathable, light, deep sandy clay, fertile soil, which provides the roots with the necessary moisture and air.

! Roses do not tolerate soils that are too damp, heavy clay, marshy, sandy or acidic.

• Heavy soils need to be improved by adding humus, peat, compost, coarse sand or sandy soil to approximately 10-12 kg per 1 m2.
• If the soils are acidic, add powdered slaked lime, chalk or dolomite flour.
• Soils that are too light (sandy, rocky) easily allow water to pass through and become very hot on hot summer days. To improve these soils, add a substrate to retain moisture and reduce air content - heavy soil, that is, clay, with the obligatory addition of well-decomposed manure humus, or peat manure compost, or turf land, and also, if possible, sludge.

! For roses, the most favorable soil reaction is pH 5.6-6.5 (this is a moderately acidic reaction).

• In roses, especially grafted ones, the roots go deep enough into the ground, so in low-lying places or where high level water, roses, as a rule, “get sick”: their foliage turns yellow and black spotting develops. In such cases, the area is drained and soil is filled. The permissible depth of groundwater is up to 100 cm.

All roses require a lot of light, but it is bad when they are in the sun all day, and they quickly bloom and fade. Plants especially suffer on hot days if there is a nearby stone wall or a fence.

The best temperature for roses (from 18 to 25 ° C).

At higher temperatures, the color of the flowers turns pale and the leaves become scorched. With sparse plantings, the soil between plants is strongly heated by the sun. In such conditions, roses suffer, grow poorly, give poor growth, leaves and flowers become smaller. It is necessary to use mulch from old plants to cover the soil between plants. sawdust, shavings, low-growing cover plants, lawn grass.

Preparing the soil for roses

There are several ways to prepare the soil for planting roses.

• First option . Before digging the soil, add 8-10 kg of decomposed manure per 1 m2, 3 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 2 tbsp. spoons of potassium sulfate and 2 tbsp. spoons The soil is dug up to a depth of 35-40 cm.
• Second option. 8-10 kg of peat compost or peat manure compost are added per 1 m2; 0.5-1.0 kg of flower soil “Rose”, or “Saintpaulia”, or others. Add 1 tbsp of mineral fertilizers. spoon of Agricola for flowering plants", 2 tbsp. spoons of nitrophoska, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate and 300-350 g of wood ash. Dig to a depth of 40 cm.
• Third option. Dig a planting hole and add 2 kg of manure humus, 200-250 g of organic fertilizer “Flower”, 2 tbsp. spoons of Agricola for flowering plants, a glass of wood ash. All fertilizers are mixed with the soil and left until planting.
• Fourth option. 2-3 kg of peat manure compost or plant humus and mineral fertilizers (2 tablespoons each of superphosphate and potassium sulfate) are added to the planting hole.
• Fifth option. In autumn, the soil for planting roses is dug up to a depth of 40-50 cm and large doses of organic fertilizers are applied at the rate of 1.5-2 kg of manure and compost for each bush. Complete mineral fertilizer is applied. Adding stove ash is also useful. Fertilizers applied during basic tillage satisfy the nutrient needs of roses for 1-3 years. Then it is necessary to feed during the growing season.

! Unrotted manure cannot be used; it can cause rotting of the root system.

Planting roses

! The best time to plant roses is early spring, before the buds open.

Before planting, you need to trim the shoots short and the roots considerably.

• In hybrid teas, polyanthus, and floribundas, it is recommended to leave 3-5 eyes;
• Park roses should be shortened by 1/3 – 1/4 of the length.

For better survival, the roots should be moistened in a solution of clay and mullein (3:1), adding 1 tablet of “Heteroauxin”, previously dissolved in water, to 1 bucket of solution.

Roses should be planted in holes, the depth and width of which allow their root system to be freely placed.

! Planting density is great value For further development roses .

• Miniature roses are planted at a distance of 30-35 cm from each other;
• Floribunda and hybrid tea - at a distance of 60-80 cm;
• Park ones - from 100 to 110 cm;
• Climbing - from 1.2 m to 2.0 m.

When purchasing certain types of roses, you should find out in advance what size they will reach. If purchased roses are grafted on the root collar, then when planting, the grafting site must be covered with soil.

Hybrid tea roses They are not resistant to cold and therefore require careful shelter for the winter.

In spring, roses are planted so that the grafting site is 2-3 cm below the soil surface.

When planting in spring, the upper part of the shoots is cut off regardless of the variety; strong shoots are shortened to 10 cm, leaving 2-3 well-formed buds on them, and 1-2 buds on weak shoots.

Climbing roses. Climbing roses should be planted obliquely at an angle of 30° to the support. If roses are planted near the house, it is necessary to place them away from the base of the wall so that water flowing from the roof during rain does not fall on the roots of the roses. In addition, a plant placed at an angle to the support is more stable and holds more firmly in the soil. Being right next to the wall, the rose would constantly suffer from lack of moisture. Climbing roses are planted somewhat deeper, deepening the grafting site 10-12 cm below the soil surface. This promotes the development of grafted shoots.

Floribunda roses. Planting rules are the same as for Hybrid Tea roses.

Planting roses from a container. The bush is removed from the container in which it grew and placed in a prepared planting hole so that it is not lower than the level at which it grew in the container. In other words, the surface of the soil in the container and the surface of the soil on the planting site must be at the same level; it is not recommended to bury the plant.

! Planted bushes must be watered and hilled abundantly.

Features of planting roses in the middle zone and northern regions

In the middle zone and more northern regions, planting roses in open ground carried out in the spring (April-early May) and, as an exception, in the fall, in September, in very tight deadlines so that the plants have time to take root. When planted in autumn, roses develop better, but young plants often do not tolerate cold, snowless winters and die even with good shelter.

Before planting, seedlings with dried roots are placed for a day in water with the addition of. Thanks to it, plants tolerate planting better, their ability to survive and quickly take root increases. Roots that are too long or damaged must be cut back to healthy wood with pruning shears.

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In summer, at the peak of flowering, it is not recommended to plant roses. You can do this again only at the end of August, having completed the work no later than the third ten days of September (otherwise the bushes may not have time to take root properly before the onset of cold weather).

But, if a rose in a pot (with a closed root system) was purchased at the height of the season, and the weather is not hot, as, for example, this summer, it can be planted earlier. The main requirement is to provide the plant with regular watering and shading. It is better to first keep a seedling that was previously in a greenhouse or under a canopy for 7-10 days outdoors in partial shade so that it can adapt to the changed lighting conditions. After planting over the bush, you need to immediately install a frame and stretch a non-woven covering material over it. This will protect the plant from sunburn and drying out until the roots begin to work normally. In a week or two, the cover can be removed.

How to prepare a planting hole for a rose?

A grafted rose seedling (and these are the ones that usually go on sale) has fairly long roots, so on average the depth of the planting hole should be at least 2 spade bayonets. The width can vary from 50 to 70 cm.

If the soil on the site is infertile, then the planting hole is filled with a specially prepared mixture consisting of sand and compost or leaf humus at a 1:1 ratio. On light sandy soils, crushed clay or hydrogel is added to the substrate to help retain moisture, and if the soil is acidic, dolomite flour (according to the manufacturer’s recommendations). Mineral fertilizers are placed in the hole in an amount corresponding to the instructions on the package, and mixed thoroughly to prevent direct contact with the roots.

'Glamis Castle'. Photo: From personal archive/Maria Shavykina

Is it necessary to deepen the grafting site when planting?

The correct position of the grafting site is a very important point, which significantly affects the health and development of the rose. On heavy clay soils it can be drawn in deeply, but on light, sandy soils, on the contrary, it can be pushed to the surface. Excessive deepening of the grafting site leads to the fact that the grafted rose can move to its own roots, and this will significantly reduce its frost resistance. If it is above the ground, then the likelihood that the varietal scion will freeze is even higher than in the first case. Therefore, the best position is considered to be when the grafting site is located at a depth of approximately 3-5 cm below ground level (on clay - no deeper than 2-3 cm).

If you, as a florist, love the “classics,” you definitely can’t do without roses in your front garden. They are called the queens of the garden, because with their buds, which exude a wonderful aroma, they can decorate even a small flowerbed. How to plant a rose and what a gardener needs to do to grow a lush pink bush? This can be clarified in advance. But how to plant a rose correctly and what time of year is the most optimal for this - these and other questions often bother beginning flower lovers. It's time to look for answers to them.

Many amateur gardeners are faced with the problem of summer planting the queen of the garden. Is this possible in principle and how to properly plant roses in open ground in the summer? In fact, an experienced specialist will in any case argue that summer is not the best best time for planting purchased shrubs. You can still try to root purchased roses from a container if you do not remove this shelter from the rhizome.

But when it comes to planting a seedling with an open root system, plant roses in the ground at summer period, means subjecting the plant to serious stress. As a result, it may simply not take root.

What to pay attention to and how to prepare

You can plant roses in the summer, but some recommendations should be followed in any case. Since professionals strongly emphasize the need to purchase seedlings in containers, give preference to such specimens, even if they cost you a little more. When you have already decided on the plant variety, it’s time to go shopping.

If everything is generally clear with the planted bushes, then there are still a few left in the process of care. important points, without which summer planting of roses is unlikely to give the desired result. Special attention pay attention to soil moisture. In summer, the air temperature is much higher, which means the soil dries out quite quickly. Therefore, the soil will need to be constantly moistened if you want the seedling to take root quickly.

How to plant a rose in summer

Roses are planted in autumn or spring. But if you decide to experience for yourself what summer planting of this plant is like, follow the basic recommendations to achieve good results.

Planting roses in the summer with an open root system is carried out by domestic gardeners. However, having planted such a plant, do not rush to relax, the main thing is to provide it with some care. For example, water for irrigation must settle. Do not use it to irrigate the substrate under any circumstances. cold water– it needs to be heated.

If desired, spray the leaves and flowers of the bush. Remember: you can grow planted roses not only in spring or autumn, but also in summer. But to ensure that the effect of summer planting is no worse than that of spring planting, try to strictly follow the basic recommendations of experts.

Video “Basics of planting rose seedlings”

From this video you will learn how to properly plant roses in the ground in summer and at other times of the year.