How to sand a rounded log - simple technologies! Choosing a tool for polishing a log house and how to polish a log house yourself. Sanding a log house with a belt sander.

Sanding increases the service life of the house and preserves the attractive appearance of the structure for a long time. Some people believe that such processing is not necessary for rounded and chopped logs, since they already look aesthetically pleasing. However, construction experts wooden house and bathhouses recommend that walls be sanded, because this provides additional protection for the wood.

Why is grinding needed?

Sanding a log frame prevents wood from rotting and increases resistance to moisture and insects. It removes defects and irregularities from the surface of the walls of a wooden house, protects the wood from mold and mildew. Please note that unpolished logs, even after treatment with antiseptics and paints and varnishes, still darken over time and lose their original appearance. Sanding will help avoid this problem.

Benefits of Sanding

Sanding rounded logs preserves the natural, even color of the wood. No sanding over time wooden walls darken due to exposure sun rays;
After grinding, the surface of the logs becomes smooth and even;
The procedure removes top layer, where fungus and mold have already accumulated;
Sanding before impregnation of wood antiseptics promotes uniform distribution of the product over the surface without layering or staining;
Sanding removes dirt from the surface of the walls that has accumulated during transportation and installation of the log house;
The procedure improves the penetration of paints and protective equipment into wood, reduces the volume of consumables;
Sanding a log frame increases the wood's resistance to moisture and insects.

Sanding a log frame is a labor-intensive process that is best left to professionals. After all, the appearance of the walls and the service life of a wooden house depend on the quality of work. Sanding a log house with your own hands will cause a lot of trouble, since you need to carefully follow the rules and strictly follow the sequence of work. In addition, the sanding process produces dust that can get into your eyes, nose, and respiratory tract. Therefore, in work they must use special means protection!

Required Tools

The right tool is the key to quality grinding. For easy and fast work choose a tool that is not too heavy and has high power. Too heavy a weight will reduce productivity by 2-3 times, and low power will increase operating time!

Sanding the walls and ends of a house or bathhouse is done using grinder, grinders and special discs. A standard belt sander will not work for a semicircular log. This tool is used to process a flat surface. It is suitable for a bathhouse or a house made of timber.

For a house made of rounded logs, it is better to use a grinder with attachments made of grinding disc with petal-shaped sandpaper. Choose a lightweight angle grinder with a power of 850 W. It is better to take a tool from a well-known and trusted brand. Preview photos on websites, collect reviews on forums and among friends. Do not take the first tool you come across, as it may turn out to be of poor quality and simply fall apart after two or three days of work.

It is important to choose the right nozzles. For external sanding of rough parts of walls, choose a No. 80 wheel. Wheel No. 120 is suitable for external processing of smoother and softer areas. Grinding of the ends begins with wheel No. 30, and nozzle No. 60 is used to remove the old paintwork. Tools with larger grain attachments are used for primary processing, and smaller ones for finishing.

Be prepared to change attachments frequently. The abrasive wears off during operation and becomes clogged with resin and wood dust. To extend the life of the attachment, the tool is treated with a wire brush and white spirit. However, even after cleaning, the speed and productivity of work will still decrease.

How to properly sand logs - instructions

Once you have selected the tool, you can proceed to grinding. Remember that the log house is sanded only after the logs have completely shrunk! As a rule, this takes 6-12 months depending on the design of the wooden house or bathhouse and the soil land plot. Sanding is carried out before the main finishing and installation of windows, doors, and ceilings. In addition, only dry materials can be sanded, as wet wood will scuff.

Before starting work, be sure to wear a protective mask, goggles or respirator to protect your eyes, mouth and nose from wood dust! Now let's take a closer look at how to sand logs better and more efficiently:

Inspect the walls and remove any loose pieces. They will slow down your work and may damage the tool. Treat these areas adhesive composition and leave to dry for a day;
Check the caulk. If cracks appear, the walls will need to be re-caulked;
From logs coniferous species first remove the resin and only then proceed to the main stage of work;
Sand the walls first with large nozzles, and then with small ones. It is better to start grinding rounded logs with nozzle No. 100, and for secondary processing use No. 125;

Do not press hard on the surface and do not high speed. In the first case, you can “burn” the wood, but in the second, unevenness and grooves will remain.
Pay special attention to the processing of the ends, as they are most susceptible to negative impact moisture, insects and other factors;
Start processing the ends with nozzle No. 35 and gradually move to 120;
It is better to grind corners and hard-to-reach places using a chisel or a block with sanding paper;
After sanding, carefully remove dust inside and outside the house or bathhouse;
After sanding, you need to treat the walls with protective compounds. For this purpose, antiseptics and antipers are used. For the ends, choose separate special products! After the surface has dried, painting with decorative paints and varnishes follows.

In a new, newly built house, it is enough to perform surface sanding before painting. From old walls, you first need to remove the old layer of paint and varnish, and, if necessary, bleach the logs. After sanding, painting of the internal and external walls. If you sand and process the wood correctly, the surface of the walls will become smooth and pleasant to the touch.

Now you know how to avoid mistakes when grinding and get high-quality, even and beautiful logs. In any case, grinding requires certain knowledge and skills, so it is better to turn to professionals. The MariSrub company performs a full range of works on processing walls in a wooden house.

Building a beautiful wooden house is the pinnacle of art. Naturally, the polishing of the log house plays a significant role here. However, it must be done carefully and correctly. Otherwise, you may simply ruin the material.

Why is the procedure necessary?

Sanding a log house is necessary to clean the wood from mold or fungal diseases, as well as various kinds damage. In addition, treated logs better absorb various varnishes or antiseptic impregnations. This procedure is also needed to improve appearance log house The fact is that it becomes smoother and more aesthetically pleasing.

Chisels.

Grinder with an attachment for processing corners.

Tape machine.

Fine processing. For this purpose, fine grain sandpaper is used - 150-180.

Final sanding. This is the last stage. For final processing of the log house, you will need material with the finest grain - 220-240.

Sanding a log frame, a technology you already know, will make your home more comfortable, beautiful and durable. After completing this procedure, it is necessary to treat the wood with an antiseptic composition. After it has dried, varnish the surface of the frame with clear or colored varnish. That's all the features of the work. Good luck!

Non-contact grinding method (logs / beams / imitation timber / block house / log house)

RIKEDOM is a member of the Association "PROF for WOOD"

on Professional PROTECTION and finishing of WOODEN STRUCTURES

We have developed and implemented an abrasive-jet method of sanding wood - as a basis for further painting of the log house. The professional painting materials we use are made in Germany, but we live and paint in Russia.

THEREFORE: Our wood protection technology is exclusive and developed specifically for Russian conditions.

You will get rid of the problem of constantly sanding and repainting the log house. Elementary, fast, TIMELY maintenance is the key to maintaining the excellent condition of the log house coating in the future.

Understanding this will definitely lead you to our company!

Popular grinding technologies

Grinding a log frame made of rounded logs with corners grinding machines has a number of disadvantages: the work takes much longer, it requires large number consumable sanding tools, it is problematic to sand a log/timber in the corners, chamfers of laminated veneer lumber, hard-to-reach places - all this requires manual sanding. However, you can do this yourself if you have the necessary tools and time. Another significant drawback is the appearance of marks from grinding wheels on the surface of the walls (radial scratches, gouges), which are especially noticeable after painting.
Grinding of a log house by sandblasting or abrasive jet method. IN in this case The procedure is much faster; grinding hard-to-reach areas of the ends and corners of the frame is especially easy. Only grinding of the ends is done manually, but this is no longer so labor-intensive. When treated with sandblasting, the surface is lightly brushed, highlighting the fabulous wood pattern, which gives the log house a unique flavor. If desired, you can perform deep brushing to create a highlight of the interior.

Our company is the founder of sandblasting wooden log house in the quality in which we produce it. After abrasive blasting of logs/timbers and when the right technology painting - the walls acquire a luxury finish. If you are interested in how much it costs to polish the walls of a log house using the abrasive-jet method, call or send a feedback form and a specialist will contact you.

Abrasive jet grinding of a log house with RIKED - differences from the traditional method

Sanding of any type of wood: logs, beams, lining, imitation, KELO pine.
Unlike sandblasting, our sanding is very DELICATE and does not tear the wood. It can even be produced on log houses with a warm seam!
FAST! High turnaround times – we sand up to 100m2 of walls per day.
Mini-brushed wood effect – highlights the unique patterns of wood. It looks very, very beautiful!

Unlike grinders, our grinding method leaves no marks or scratches. Grinding a log house using the abrasive-jet method does not encounter the problem of hard-to-reach places, for example, oblique bay windows, corners, beam chamfers, etc.
THE MOST IMPORTANT thing is that if the grinding wheels of grinders or brushes polish the wood, then our grinding, on the contrary, opens the pores of the wood, which significantly increases the absorption of paint materials. This directly affects the durability of the coating! Link to video where you can clearly see the difference.

NEW HOUSE "INTERIOR"

GRINDING

Blowing, cleaning up after yourself

PAINTING
Priming using the ICS system
Interlayer sanding
Interlayer sanding
Third layer - if necessary - according to the ICS system
Consumables (except for paints and varnishes)

EXTRAS INCLUDED:
Scaffolding/Scaffolding

RESTORATION “INTERIOR”

GRINDING

Branded abrasive jet grinding
Transport costs (equipment, sand, scaffolding)
Consumables (sand, etc.)
Blowing, cleaning up after yourself

PAINTING
Priming using the ICS system
Interlayer sanding
The first layer of impregnation according to the ICS system
Interlayer sanding
Second layer of impregnation according to the ICS system
Third coat of paint - if necessary - according to the ICS system
Consumables (except paints and varnishes)

EXTRAS INCLUDED:
Scaffolding/Scaffolding
Delivery of paints and varnishes
Discount on paint and varnish material – 20%
Carrying out “painting” on site
Dismantling/installation of platbands, radiators
Covering the floor/ceiling/electrical elements, etc.

NEW HOUSE "FACADE"

Departure to measure the geometry and humidity of the log house

GRINDING
Branded abrasive jet grinding
Transport costs (equipment, sand, scaffolding)
Consumables (sand, etc.)
Blowing, cleaning up after yourself

PROTECTION (PAINTING)
Priming using the ICS system
Interlayer sanding
Second layer of impregnation according to the ICS system

EXTRAS INCLUDED:
Scaffolding
Carrying out painting on site
Delivery of painting materials
Discount on paint and varnish material – 20%

RESTORATION "FACADE"

Departure to measure the geometry of the log house

GRINDING
Analysis of general condition and development of finishing strategy
Preliminary preparation and restoration work (depending on the condition of the tree)
Branded abrasive jet grinding
Transport costs (equipment, sand, scaffolding)
Consumables (sand, etc.)
Blowing, cleaning up after yourself

PAINTING
Priming using the ICS system
The first layer of impregnation (with deep impregnation) according to the ICS system
Interlayer sanding
Second layer of impregnation according to the ICS system
Final hydrophobic/moisture regulating layer
Consumables (except paint and varnish material)

EXTRAS INCLUDED:
Complete perimeter closure
Scaffolding/Scaffolding
Closing window/door units
Delivery of paints and varnishes
Discount on paint and varnish material – 20%
Carrying out “painting” on site
Dismantling/installation of platbands, drainpipes, ebbs
Dismantling protruding inter-crown material (except caulk)
Issuance of a branded PASSPORT for warranty coverage

Price for polishing a log frame per 1m2

FREE antiseptic treatment during the shrinkage of your log house

Spring is coming! And if you put up a log house now or this winter, then it will still “dry” during summer period, which means that there is a high risk of blue discoloration, bugs, and darkening from UV. We suggest: treating your log house with a special antiseptic, which will give:

Saves from UV! This is the most striking advantage, along with its competitors. Weathering of the wood, as well as its graying, is excluded, which will facilitate the process of further finishing of the log house.
Saves from the appearance of blue, beetles. Blue staining is a common phenomenon that causes disappointment to future residents due to spoiled aesthetics and the inability to use light paint colors.
SALT antiseptic, because nothing but salt can be absorbed into “raw” wood

Taking care of you and your tree!

Video reviews about our work

Scheme of work with you:

Make an appointment for a consultation in our office by phone

2 hours

Consultation at the RIKEDOM office

The foreman visits the site to determine accurate measurements

Signing of the main agreement. Team visit for trial-demonstrative square meter of grinding

Payment. Carrying out work on site

Delivery of work. Issuance of a PASSPORT for maintenance

Answers to your most common questions:

When you come to our office, you receive detailed advice on how we work and decide whether you need it or not. We also decide on the possibility of performing work at your site. It is in the office, when communicating with managers, that a preliminary decision is made on carrying out certain work. You can also find out the estimated price. Our foreman comes to you to measure geometry and humidity only after consultation in the office. Why don't we just send a measurer? Because it's not serious, and we are a serious company. Simply taking measurements so that you get a price is pointless until you understand the principle of our work. Not a single “measurer” has the vast practical experience that the head of the company has. For your convenience, packages have been developed where the price is determined per square meter of log house. You yourself can “roughly estimate” how much approximately square meters make up the walls of your home.

Other companies have a different technology of work, and therefore a different price. Our technology – from grinding to final painting– is aimed specifically at protecting the wood, that is, at the durability of the applied coating. This means that in the future you will not have to spend money again on sanding and painting again. This is the fundamental difference - not to pay again and again in the future, as 90% of owners do wooden houses with regular painting. And, of course, RIKEDOM’s works always stand out against the background of hundreds of painted houses.

For every house we paint, we issue a warranty service PASSPORT. That is, you need to understand that everything will be fine with the coating if you provide it with timely care.
During the work process, a special log is filled out, which indicates what tools and materials were used, a sketch of the structure indicating problem areas and other technical characteristics.

The VIP package is created for clients who want only the best and are accustomed to maximum comfort. In addition to everything that is included in the BRAND, the VIP PACKAGE has additional privileges:
*4-layer painting. That is, in addition to priming and the two obligatory layers of impregnation on the facade or oil/glaze inside, another layer of composition is added, with another thorough interlayer sanding. This procedure is invaluable for the facade, for its greater protection and durability! For interiors - the quality of tactile sensations of magnificent wood finishing increases significantly!
*Restoration: chips, protruding chips, nail holes, etc. – we will restore everything, perfection will please the eye.
*Creating a closed perimeter: place it in a circle scaffolding, we cover it with canopies - the dust from sanding will not fly away, the neighbors (if the houses are close), the landscape, etc. will not “suffer”. And what is important - the “closed perimeter” helps to improve the quality of work, because during painting and installation warm seam Avoid exposure to precipitation and direct sunlight. And in the autumn-winter period, this shelter at home allows you to heat the space inside the canopies and thereby comply with the technology.
*We remove and put back trims, ebbs, drainage system and other things that are needed to carry out the work.
*Individual color selection, free shipping test colors, as well as the paint and sealant itself.
*The best part: PERSONAL control over the facility from the company management, as well as resolving all issues regarding the facility with the company’s management.

Because we don’t look at the cans where the paint consumption is written. Our task is to nourish the tree, and not just paint it. But the absorbency of wood depends on the type of product, species, and where the wood comes from. Different objects have different absorbency. Different logs also have different absorbency. We do not drop a couple of drops and do not stretch them over ten squares in order to save you paint. We will power it until the most important thing is ensured - the protection of the tree.
That’s why paint disappears on objects in different ways. That is, the paint goes according to the fact. Same as sealant. The thickness of the warm seam depends solely on the diameter and fit of your log, as well as the size of the discrepancies in the inter-crown space. Therefore, the seam is selected based on these parameters. Make it too narrow and it will simply tear the seam; make it too wide and it’s unsightly and useless. The size of the seam is determined only by the master, and the consumption of sealant directly depends on this.
During your consultation, you will receive only ESTIMATE calculations for paint and sealant, based on our experience.

People with extensive experience in working with wood, with golden hands and developed sense responsibility. Our core of foremen and foremen does not change; we have been with them for more than 12 years. Of course, there are also newcomers whom the masters train, and this is how the staff expands. Judging by the number positive feedback From the clients we receive, we can proudly say that we have the best professional staff!

Why do you need sanding of a log house?

Many people think that sanding a log house is needed solely to clean the wood from dust, dirt and give it a light, healthy look. In fact, the main function of sanding a log house is to OPEN THE PORES OF THE WOOD for further deep nourishment of the protective material.

Therefore, the further absorption of the material directly depends on how the frame was polished. For example, 100-120-150 grit is often used for sanding the outside of a wooden house. This is a gross mistake, since such almost “polishing” of the wood leads to the closing of the pores of the wood and the paintwork is simply not able to be absorbed, and therefore provide protection to your log house.

Abrasive jet sanding of a log frame is not measured in “grain” and is designed to open the pores of the wood as much as possible. Sanding a log house using this method occurs “in one pass” and very carefully removes only “unnecessary” wood fibers, leaving them alive and healthy. Because of this, the price of sanding a wooden house using this method is often lower than the traditional one.

How much does Abrasive Jet Grinding cost?

Our sanding price includes consumables- quartz sand. The grinding equipment operates autonomously, on its own diesel fuel, which is also included in the price. Judge for yourself how much the electricity used by grinders every day for even a month will cost you?.. Metal dismountable scaffolding, auxiliary tours, transportation costs for the delivery of all equipment - all this also “sits” in our price per square meter.

Sanding a log frame occurs quickly, due to the fact that it is carried out in just “one pass” and no time is wasted on hard-to-reach places, as with grinders. All complex contact points - corners, chamfers, joints - are treated with sand as easily as any other wood surface.

Differences from sandblasting

Sandblasting differs sharply in quality from abrasive blasting, since sandblasting equipment is simply not designed for such a delicate material as wood. When processing wood in this way, it is very important to preserve solid wood fibers, which are a kind of reinforcement for everything. wooden element. Sandblasting often simply tears apart these hard fibers. The race for the speed of sandblasting performers leads to the fact that the log house after such grinding simply cannot be further painted, without preliminary “smoothing”: passing with nylon brushes or high-grain wheels. What do we get as a result? That's right - closing the pores of the tree again... What's the point?

When to start sanding a log frame?

When the log house reached a humidity level of 25% or lower or was initially dry. It’s not a good idea to start sanding without planning to paint, because after sanding, protecting and painting the wood must be done properly. as soon as possible, otherwise the resin will approach the surface of the wood (the wood protects itself) and the meaning of sanding will be lost.

Sanding timber and logs is a dusty process, so it needs to be planned before installing rough floors inside, communications and other things. Interior decoration, as a rule, is divided into two stages:

Sanding + priming + 1 coat: This is the first step.

After completing rough floors, wiring communications and other things: interlayer sanding and applying a finishing coat of paint.

When the construction of a wooden house is completed, the next stage begins: the structure must be prepared for further use. One of the main jobs in this process is sanding, which can only be done after the house has completely settled. Using sanding, knots, roughness and other wood defects are removed, unevenness is smoothed out, and the outer walls of the house are prepared for further painting. Unpolished log house It does not look aesthetically pleasing; it cannot be painted or varnished. Grinding is quite labor-intensive work that requires certain skills. In this article we will tell you how to sand the outside of a log house, and what technologies and materials are used for sanding wood.

Traditionally, sanding logs or timber house the outside is done after shrinkage has taken place and the wood has completely dried. Typically this process takes at least a year, and in some cases it takes longer. It all depends on the quality of the lumber, the species and the moisture level of the wood. The climatic features of the area also play an important role.

A house made of profiled timber, which is usually made from freshly cut timber, shrinks and dries out in about ten to twelve months. Glued laminated timber has a low moisture level, so sanding can be done immediately after construction.

External grinding of the log house in winter is not recommended when sub-zero temperatures. Sanded wood must be treated with antiseptics to protect it from the sun and precipitation, and this can only be done in the warm season. At the same time, sanding from the inside of the house can be carried out in winter, provided that during interior spaces positive temperature is maintained.

During shrinkage, the log house, being outdoors, is exposed to rain, snow, wind, and solar radiation. As a result wooden house loses its attractive appearance, the logs darken, become covered with a blue coating, the wood begins to rot due to excess moisture, and mold appears.

Sanding stops the development of negative processes and allows you to restore the original appearance of the wood. In addition, grinding performs the following tasks:

removes unevenness and makes the surface smooth, which contributes to a more attractive appearance of the walls and less consumption of paints and varnishes;
improves the absorption of protective agents, thereby increasing the service life of wood;
eliminates small knots and other defects from the surface;
removes blue stains, as well as areas damaged by fungus and mold;
helps to increase the service life of a wooden structure.

Often, home craftsmen, wondering: why sand a log house before painting, start painting the logs, skipping the sanding step. As a result, after some time the coating begins to crack and peel, which in principle is not surprising. Sanding ensures good grip paint and varnish material with wood and deep penetration of paint into the wood structure. Thanks to this wooden surface receives the required level of protection and increases the service life of the coating.

Before you start sanding, you need to stock up necessary tool. The following tools are suitable for sanding a wooden house and bathhouse:

A belt sander processes the surface with an abrasive belt of different grain sizes, which is mounted on two rotating rollers.
The brush machine is a type of belt MM. Its working tool is a brush, which is convenient for rough surface treatment. It is also used to remove the previous paint coating from an old log house.
The vibratory sander has a flat base on which it is attached using clips or Velcro. abrasive material. Some models are equipped with a triangle-shaped sole, which is convenient for grinding grooves, chamfers and corner connections logs
The eccentric sander is equipped with a round sole, where the abrasive of the desired grain size is attached using Velcro. The machine can perform fine processing and polishing of beams, and also does an excellent job of sanding curved surfaces.
An angle grinder or grinder is the most common tool for sanding wood. Wood processing is carried out using sanding discs with sandpaper of different grain sizes.
The drill is the base for different types grinding tools. Sanding wood with a drill is done using two types of attachments: flat wheels with sanding paper and attachments in the form of petals made of abrasive material.

During grinding, chips fly and a large amount of harmful dust is released, which poses a serious danger to the respiratory system. Therefore, in addition to the tool, to sand wood you will need:

vacuum cleaner to remove dust;
respirator for respiratory protection;
safety glasses.

As you can see, grinding devices are very diverse, and it’s not always easy to make right choice, the better to sand log or timber house. Professional craftsmen recommend selecting a tool depending on the type of lumber from which the building is constructed, as well as on the existing skills in using a particular tool.

It is most convenient to sand hand-cut logs using an angle grinder or a drill with special attachments.

Rough surface treatment is carried out grinding wheels No. 30-60 with coarse grain.
For basic and final grinding, nozzles No. 80-120, having a fine grain, are used.
A cup brush with a coarse abrasive is well suited for cleaning the surface, removing dark spots and blue spots, and removing old coating.
You can perform basic sanding of the log nylon brush, which during operation creates much less dust than sanding attachments, and in addition, allows you to achieve a brushing effect.

How to polish a rounded log, which, unlike hand-cut logs, has a smooth and even surface?

You can use an angle grinder. But if you do not have the skills to use this tool, then any careless movement can lead to the appearance of depressions or grooves in the log.
Better grinding is obtained when processing a rounded log with an eccentric sander. Despite the fact that it has lower productivity, it allows you to achieve ideal smoothness of the log. The machine has a special lock that turns off the tool when pressed hard.

Glued and profiled timber have a flat surface, which is easier to work with. Before grinding the timber, you need to choose one of three possible options beam processing:

With processing laminated veneer lumber and imitation of timber, an angle grinder can do a good job, but if you mishandle the tool, the surface can be easily damaged.
Sanding the timber can be done using a vibratory grinder with a rectangular platform. The machine is equipped with a dust collection bag and provides very high quality grinding.
Using a belt sander, you can perform rough processing, eliminate wood defects, and level the surface. However draw machine cannot provide ideal smoothness, so they are not used for finishing sanding.

Treatment of hard-to-reach areas is especially difficult work for non-professional craftsmen. Grinding of grooves and ends of log and beam houses is carried out using a grinder. For grooves, a nozzle of a smaller size than the disk itself is used. The same size of attachment and disc may cause the tool to jam. The ends are ground with an abrasive wheel No. 40.

Grinding hard-to-reach places can also be done using a vibrating machine with a triangular sole. The most problematic are the corners of the log house. They are usually sanded by hand using a chisel, which removes the top thin layer of wood. Hand sanding in the corners it is performed both before and after stripping the entire surface of the log.

Grinding technology

Do-it-yourself grinding of a log house is carried out in three stages.

Initially, rough processing of the logs is carried out using nozzles with large grains. Removed upper part bark, all protruding parts, knots and other defects are removed. If an old frame is being sanded, then before sanding the wood, the old coating used to paint the walls is removed.
Next comes the basic sanding. The sanded walls of the house are sanded with medium-grain sandpaper. At the second stage, the surface is leveled and the lint remaining on the wood after the initial processing is removed.
On final stage carried out final sanding logs using a power tool with a fine abrasive or manually with the finest sandpaper. It is necessary to polish the surface to perfect smoothness.

First, the main surface is sanded, and then proceed to hard-to-reach areas. When sanding logs, you need to leave a strip at a distance of 2 to 10 cm to the corners of the log house, which are then processed manually.

After sanding, it is necessary to remove the dust with a vacuum cleaner and be sure to treat the polished surface within a week. protective compounds, after which the outer walls can be painted. If sanded wood is left untreated, it will begin to darken again.

Mistakes when sanding at home yourself

When performing grinding at home, it is not always possible to achieve the expected effect. Many craftsmen, believing that grinding is an easy job, take on it without calculating their strength.

Good health to everyone!
In this article I will talk about my modest experience of sanding logs inside a bathhouse. I have to admit that I didn't initially intend to write about this. Since I didn’t see anything special about it, and the work wasn’t difficult - just tedious and very dirty

But since I recently wrote an article about my bathhouse, in continuation of the bathhouse topic I decided to write about sanding logs. And the very first advice - if finances allow, then it’s better to hire people for this work, seriously, this is a really long and dusty business.

Tools and clothing

I was sanding logs for the first time in my life; I had never done such work before. Therefore, professionals are asked to be understanding towards the beginner. So. The grinding work inside the bathhouse took me exactly 5 days (3*4 meter bathhouse). He worked alone, from morning until late evening.

To be honest, I didn’t imagine that it would take so much time, it seemed like I did a quick job with an angle grinder and that’s it. Yeah, naive, no matter how wrong it is

The following tools were used for the work:
- Angle grinder (or in our opinion, grinder);
- Grinding flap discs (flap end grinding wheel);
- Brush with iron bristles;
- Chisel or knife;
- Impregnation for a bath with wax (for use inside the bath) + brush;
- Stable and reliable bench, stool;
- Arms, legs, head - no matter how you look at it, you can’t live without it
I will try to tell you more about the tools as the article progresses.

WITH special attention it's worth approaching the clothes, because work is carried out indoors, there is fine and abundant dust. I have a separate set of clothes for such work.
- Jeans, soft and strong. You have to work in different positions, standing, sitting, kneeling, and lying down. Thank God, at least I haven’t had to do the splits yet
- Jacket, strong, made of dense material.
- Since it was cool outside, I had to wear two old T-shirts at the same time (I didn’t want to ruin the sweaters).
- Safety glasses.
- Closed shoes.
- Headdress.
- Gloves.
+ Hydrogen peroxide, plaster, milk, raspberry jam.

Since you cannot use a bathhouse during the polishing period. I decided to carry out my work without being distracted by other matters. I forgot to mention panties and socks. No matter how you look at it, they also absorb dust. Therefore my algorithm was as follows. In the morning I dress in work clothes. I work all day. In the evening I take off my clothes, take a shower (it’s not swim season yet, so you can’t go to the river), and change into clean clothes.

Protective equipment respiratory/nutrition/muttering organs are also needed. The first day I worked in a cap and a painting mask; I gave up the mask after an hour of work, because... impossible - the closed area heats up, sweats and in general - I didn’t like it. As a result: the cap does not cover the entire head, the ears are open, the nose and mouth too - it all becomes clogged with dust, then I was tortured to wash myself in the shower, and even then I didn’t get rid of it the first time.

On the second and subsequent days I acted more carefully. Instead of a cap, I made myself a scarf from an old sheet. Which completely covers all hair and ears. I also made a strip of the same old sheet to cover my mouth and nose, and again my ears. Those. my head was completely packed, and I had protective glasses on my eyes (to prevent my glasses from fogging up, I soaped my fingers in the morning and inside I ran it over all the surfaces of the glasses - it helped).

By the way, why did I mention milk and raspberry jam earlier? Not without reason. The fact is that in the bathhouse, throughout the work, all the windows and doors were open. Accordingly - a draft. There is really no heat outside, when you work you don’t feel the cold. But when I came home in the evening, I couldn’t warm myself up - everything was pounding, despite the warmth in the house. To avoid getting sick, I drank tea with raspberry jam and all the same, I spent all this time with a sore throat.