To quickly and conveniently install interior doors, you can use a special mounting kit that will greatly facilitate the installation process. AND experienced craftsmen, and, moreover, beginners, argue that with the help of a kit, it is much more convenient and easier to mount doors. In the article, we will consider the features of the mounting kit, find out what is included in its composition. We will also find out at what price this useful accessory can be purchased from different manufacturers.

Description

The mounting kit is in two parts: the first is attached to the door frame with its inside, and the second part - to the wall of the doorway. By connecting the parts of the kit with each other, it becomes possible. And, besides this, the evenness of the box with the already installed canvas can be adjusted according to the level.

It is possible to make adjustments and check the evenness of the installation at any stage of work: and at any stage it will be possible to correct the "joint", if any. At the same time, the savings in time and effort are significant.

How to install a convenient handle with a lock for interior door find out.

pros

We will find out what are the advantages of an installation kit for installing doors.

Although outwardly the kit looks like just a certain set of fasteners, but in fact it is a well-thought-out "inside and out" technology door mounting... And attached to the kit detailed instructions will allow the installation of doors even for a person far from such activities.

The use of the kit allows you to significantly save on the purchase of fasteners, as well as save nerve cells and time. The kit already includes all the accessories and necessary elements for mounting the door frame.

What to do if the key is stuck in the door lock will tell you.

All mounting kits are concealed hardware. They do not require through-hole drilling of the box. The decor of the door does not suffer from their presence. At the same time, the kit allows you to fix the box in six places, which makes ready product securely and firmly fixed.

Thanks to this adaptation from the work process, it is possible to exclude the standard preparation, which usually takes a lot of time and effort. This allows you to significantly simplify installation and save time.

Among the works that are not required when using the mounting kit are the following:

• adjustment (more often - reduction) of the opening area;
• strengthening the walls of the opening;
• floor level adjustment and other types of work.

This reduction in work steps reduces installation costs and provides significant time savings.

One of the indisputable advantages of using a mounting kit is the ability to quickly and easily dismantle old door, and just as fast fixing in its place with a new one. In this case, it is not necessary to destroy the opening, since the new door is hung on the remaining from the old fastening.

The versatility of the fasteners included in the mounting kits allows you to use it for installing doors of various sizes and modifications. In addition, the mounting kit will handle even if the door frame is noticeably skewed.

Read how to open the front door lock without a key.

Using the mounting kit, it is easy to install doors in wall openings from the most different materials:

• wood;
• bricks;
• concrete;
• drywall;
• foam concrete, etc.

When using such a set, there is no need to use spacers, wedges, and other types of temporary box fixation. Adjustment is carried out using open-ended keys, which are available in literally every home. If all the same open-end wrench not found, you can also use pliers to tighten the adjusting screw.

Well, if the gap between the door block and the opening is insignificant, then one nut can be excluded, leaving 5 attachment points. This method allows the clearance to be reduced to 10 mm. Thanks to reliable fixing, the service life of the door unit is significantly extended.

Due to the fact that when using mounting kits for installing doors, there is no need to "foam" the gaps in the box, the reliability of the fasteners increases. In addition, the specified parameters of the metal brackets do not lose their relevance even after a few years, which will ensure the evenness of the box. Foam used in conventional installation can begin to crumble, lose stiffness, so the benefits of using metal fasteners are obvious.

It is possible that you will find useful information about overhead locks for the entrance metal door, which will help you understand.

The metal fasteners securely hold the box in the opening, so even after the voids are filled with foam, the box does not "twist".

When the door is installed in the usual way, it can only be used after the foam has completely solidified. And when using the metal fasteners of the mounting kit, this opportunity appears immediately after the completion of the work. For some rooms (bathroom, toilet, kitchen), this advantage is very important.

What's in the box

We will find out what constituent elements are included in the installation kit for installing the doors.

• The complete set of the kit necessarily includes detailed instructions, following which, you can competently and quickly cope with the door installation.
• Special universal key, which allows you to quickly deal with the fixation of all fasteners. They can tighten all the nuts included in the kit, which is also "on hand" to the one who is engaged in the installation. You may also be interested in information about.
• Nut with collar. This fastener makes it possible to firmly fix the door in six different places, which provides the fastening with much greater reliability. Some manufacturers also offer special nuts without washers, which make the installation process even easier.
• A screw with a press washer - also in the amount of six pieces.
• Plastic dowels - 6 pcs.
• Low nut - 6 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws of a certain size (usually 16 mm) - in the amount of 12 pcs.
• Hex head bolts allow for a reliable and firm fixation of the door frame.
• Mounting bracket - 6 pcs. This element allows you to adjust the evenness of the door frame installation with a minimum error. In this case, the adjustment can be carried out with the already installed door leaf.

Features of mortise locks for entrance wooden doors are described.

Manufacturers and prices

We will find out at what cost assembly kits for installing doors from different manufacturers are offered today.

Crepdwehr Company offers high quality mounting kits from economy class to the "Special" level. So, the economy option for 400 rubles is perfect if the weight of the door leaf does not exceed 50 kg.

But the most popular is the "station wagon" set, which is also suitable for doors of the same "weight category", but its complete set includes a special curved key. The latter tool allows you to quickly deal with adjusting the clearances and fixing the brackets. The cost of the "station wagon" set is 420 rubles.

For massive heavy interior doors (for example, oak), the company offers an option with reinforced brackets. The cost of a set of "specials" - 495 rubles.

Domestic manufacturer "Ocean»Offers mounting devices for installing doors at a price of 400 rubles. Minus - the curved key is not included in the package. But if you do not take into account this drawback, in general, the quality of the fasteners is decent and quite competitive.

You can also familiarize yourself with the material on how to change the lock on an entrance metal door.

By the way, if you search well, you can find offers and even at a price of 100 rubles per set. But in this case a minimum order amount of 500 rubles is required. The quality of such kits causes logical suspicion, so it is better to pay more, but purchase a guaranteed high-quality product, than to become the owner of five faulty kits.

Video

Mounting kit for door installation:

We examined the features of using a mounting kit for installing interior doors. As you can see, this device is, without a doubt, a very useful thing, saving time, effort and money. In addition, the installation kit makes it possible to cope with the work even for a beginner. Therefore, when planning to change the doors inside the apartment, do not forget to get this useful set of fasteners, with which you can get the job done in a short time.

Sooner or later, you have to change the interior doors. The procedure is not so complicated that it is imperative to hire a specialist. If you have at least some skills in handling a saw, a level and a plumb line, you can tighten a few screws - do it yourself. When replacing, before installing the interior door, the old one must be dismantled. And here, too, there are features. All the intricacies - in a photo and video with detailed instructions.

Interior doors are made from different materials. Moreover, the material of both the door leaf and the frame differs. The door leaf is:

• From fiberboard. These are the cheapest doors. Represent wooden frame, to which the laminated fiberboard is attached. They are characterized by low sound insulation, they are afraid high humidity are easily damaged.
• Made of MDF. They cost much more, but also quality characteristics much higher. They are better in sound insulation, are not afraid of moisture, stronger and more durable.
• Wood. The most expensive doors. Made from different varieties wood - from pine to oak or more exotic species.

Door frames are made of the same materials. The worst choice is fiberboard boxes, they even bend under their own weight, and hanging the door leaf on them is sheer flour. So try to take either MDF or wood. There is one more material: laminated wood. The good thing is that you do not need to process and paint, but the service life depends on the quality of the film.

Dimensions and equipment

Interior doors are available in standard sizes, it is a pity that the standards in different countries differ. For example, in our country swing doors make 600 - 900 mm wide in 100 mm increments. In some EU countries, the norms are the same - in Germany, Italy and Spain. Others are standard in France. Here the narrowest doors are 690 mm and further with a step of 100 mm.

Is the difference so important? If you only want to change the door leaf without a box, then it is important - you will have to choose from your segment or completely change it together with the box. Interior doors of the same standard as in our country, the choice is much greater, as in France - several times less.

How wide the door is needed depends on where you are going to put them. In terms of standards, the following values ​​are recommended:

• v living room width from 60 to 120 cm, height 2 m;
• bathroom - width from 60 cm, height 1.9-2 m;
• in the kitchen, the width of the door leaf is at least 70 cm, the height is 2 m.

If, when replacing the door, it is decided to make the opening larger / smaller, you do not need permission for this, but you must stay within the limits specified for each room.

How do you determine which door width to buy? Measure the door leaf that you have and you will know what you need. If there are no doors, find the narrowest point in the opening, by measuring it, you can find out how wide you need the door block. This is the door leaf + door frame. So the outer dimensions of the door frame must be less than the measured value. For example, if you got 780 mm, look for a block with 700 mm parameters. The wider ones cannot be inserted into this opening.

The most complete set of interior doors - with a frame, accessories and platbands

When choosing a door, pay attention to the complete set. There are three types of assembly:

• Door leaf. Buy the box separately.
• Doors with a frame. Everything is included, but the box is in the form of separate boards. You will have to file the corners and connect, hang the loops yourself.
• Door block. These are ready-to-install doors - the frame is assembled, the hinges are hung. Only trim the sidewalls to the height, align and secure.

With the same quality of the door leaf, the prices for these kits differ significantly. But the difference in the time you will spend on installation is decent.

Step-by-step installation of interior doors

In general, there are many subtleties. We will try to describe and illustrate the most common moments in a photo or video material.

Step 1: Assembling the door frame

If you did not buy a pre-assembled door unit, the first step is to assemble door frame... It consists of two long posts located on the sides, and one shorter crossbar at the top - the lintel.

Connection methods

There are at least two options for how to connect these strips to each other:

Regardless of which way you are going to connect the elements of the door frame, the first step is to wash down the racks and lintels on one side. Then they are put in a box on the floor, checking the correctness of the connection. Next, you need to decide on the height of the side parts of the door frame.

Determine the dimensions

When folded, the required length is measured along the inside of the rack. The racks are far from always made the same: the floor is often uneven and this must be taken into account. To do this, take a level and check how flat the floor is. If it is perfectly level, the racks will be the same. If there is a deviation, it must be taken into account: make one of the racks longer. Usually it is a few millimeters, but even this is enough for the doors to warp.

When calculating the height, keep in mind that the racks should be 1-2 cm longer than the door leaf (taking into account the cuts). A gap of 1 cm is made under the door, if they do not intend to put a rug under the door. If there will be a rug / carpet / carpet, it is better to make it larger. Don't be afraid to leave gaps. They are needed for. Please note again: the height is measured along the inside of the door frame - from the bottom edge to the saw cut. Cutting off, try on the racks in the doorway.

Now it is necessary to saw off the lintel along the length and, if necessary, cut it on the other side (if the joint is at 45 °). The length of the lintel should be such that, when folded, the distance between the uprights is greater than the width of the door leaf. The minimum clearance is 7 mm, but often larger. 7-8 mm are distributed as follows: 2 mm for hinges, and 2.5-3 mm for expansion gaps. Any interior doors - MDF, fiberboard, wood - change their dimensions depending on humidity. Clearances are required to accommodate these changes. And 5-6 mm is not always enough, especially in humid rooms. For the bathroom, just leave a little more, otherwise, with high humidity, they may be difficult to open.

So, we decided on the minimum gaps when installing interior doors:

• on hinges - 5-6 mm;
• top, bottom and sides - 3 mm;
• bottom - 1-2 cm.

After you have cut off all the pieces and made the cuts, fold the box down on the floor. If you notice somewhere in the docking flaws - eliminate it with sandpaper fixed to the bar. The more accurate the match, the smaller the gap.

Assembly

Regardless of the material of the box and the method of connection, holes are pre-drilled for fasteners - so that the material does not break. The drill diameter is 1 mm less than the screw diameter.

The box is folded, angles are set at 90 °. Holding the rack and lintel in this position, drill holes with a drill. If there is an assistant, he can hold. If you work alone, temporarily fasten the correctly positioned box with two transverse bars - closer to the top and bottom. This will help you avoid mistakes and make the right connection.

If connected at an angle of 45 °, three holes are made on each side. Two on top - stepping back a centimeter from the edge, and one on the side - in the center. In total, three self-tapping screws are required for each connection. The direction of installation of self-tapping screws is perpendicular to the connection line.

If connected at 90 °, everything is simpler. Drill two holes from above, directing the drill exactly down.

Step 2: Inset stitches

Most often, 2 hinges are installed on the interior doors, but 3 hinges are also possible. They are set backing 200-250 mm from the edge of the door leaf. If the frame and door leaf are made of wood, choose a location so that there are no knots. First, the hinges are attached to the door leaf. The order of work is as follows:

• We apply loops to the selected places, outline the contours. The easiest way to do this is with a finely sharpened pencil, but experts advise - with a knife blade. This makes it more accurate and the gaps remain smaller.
• If they have, if not, they take a chisel and choose the material for the thickness of the loop. More sampling is not necessary, only for the thickness of the metal.
• A loop is installed in the prepared recess. Its plane should be flush with the surface of the canvas.
• The exposed loop is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Having fastened two hinges, the door leaf is laid in the assembled box, the correct gaps are set: from the side of the hinges - 5-6 mm, 3 mm from the opposite side and from above. Having set these gaps, the canvas is fixed with wedges. Exposed exactly in horizontal and vertical planes (shims can be used if necessary).

After exposure, the locations of the mating parts of the loops are marked. Sometimes it is more convenient to remove the already installed loop, and then reinstall it. A notch is also made according to the markings. Depth - so that the surface of the hinge is flush with the surface of the door frame.

Do-it-yourself door hinge is described in detail in the video.

Step 3: Install the door frame

The assembled box must be correctly inserted into the opening. This is a very important task. Before you install the interior door, knock down everything that can fall off in the opening. If the wall is too loose, the surface is treated with deep penetration primers with an astringent effect. If there are too large holes, they are covered with plaster, very large protrusions are constrained. It is easier to insert an interior door into the prepared opening. If this is your first time doing this yourself, make it easier for yourself.

A box without a door leaf is exposed. It is oriented strictly vertically. The verticality is checked not only by the level, but also by the plumb line. The level often gives an error, therefore it is more reliable to check with a plumb line.

So that during installation the box does not warp, still install temporary spacers on the floor, slopes in the corners which give high degree rigidity. To open the doors, they are inserted in the same plane with the wall. Only in this way will it open completely. If the wall is uneven, place the box not along the wall, but vertically. Otherwise, there will be problems opening or closing the door.

How to insert an interior door with your own hands - in the same plane with the wall

Once the position is selected, you can fix. This is done using mounting wedges - triangular wooden or plastic bars. First, wedges are placed on both sides of the lintel - crossbars, then above the uprights. Thus, the position of the box relative to the doorway is selected and fixed. Next, the verticality of the racks is checked again. They are checked in two planes - so that they are not tilted forward or backward.

Then the wedges are installed at the bottom, then after about 50-60 cm, checking that the racks are exactly level. Additionally, the transverse bar is wedged in the middle. They check whether the elements of the box are not bent somewhere, correct if necessary. You can start mounting.

Step 4: attaching the box to the doorway

There are also two ways of fastening: right through to the wall and mounting plates. If the wall allows and you are not intimidated by the caps of the fasteners in the box, you can attach it through and through. It is reliable.

To install interior doors, it is enough to screw two self-tapping screws into the cutouts for the hinges and, on the other hand, under the plate of the counterpart of the lock. Additional holes are drilled in the cutouts. They are made so as not to fall into the holes for fastening the hinges or the counterpart. Make sure that the head of the screws is recessed and does not interfere with the installation of the hinges and overlays.

Installation of interior doors according to this scheme is shown in the video. There are also several interesting nuances about exposing the door frame.

If this amount of fasteners seems unreliable, drill through and cover the holes with decorative washers matched to the tone. Or there is also a special MDF molding with removable slats. The fastener is installed in the prepared groove and then closed with a strap.

The second method is secret, the fasteners are not visible. First, the mounting plates are attached to the back of the box. In principle, it can be used for drywall, but there are also special ones - thicker, although when installing interior doors, drywall will be enough.

Step 5: foaming

After all the gaps have been set and the wedges have been installed, the gaps between the box and the wall are filled with polyurethane foam. For its better polymerization, the wall is moistened with water from a spray bottle. After that, the foam is squeezed out, filling no more than 2/3. Too much a large number of foam can cause the box to be blown inward. Therefore, do not overdo it.

Spacers are used to ensure the doors are not warped by foam. But if you do not overdo it with foam, nothing should happen.

Spacers for fixing the box - with this installation of the interior door, the box should be level

After the foam has polymerized (the exact time is indicated on the cylinder), the spacers are removed, the door leaf is hung and the operation of the door is checked. Next come Finishing work: and platbands, if necessary - addons.

You know how to install an interior door with your own hands. There is nothing super complicated, but we tried to describe the main nuances. There is a lot of useful information in the video - these are recommendations from practitioners.

Until recently, installing interior doors with your own hands was a rather difficult task and required serious experience and skills from a person. Now everything has become much easier, having a good tool and knowing the procedure for installing interior doors, any home craftsman is able to complete the work in a day. Next, we will analyze step by step how to properly install an interior door in two ways.

Variants of canvases for interior doors.

Before you put an interior door, you must first select it. When choosing, there are 2 main criteria - this is the size of the structure and the material from which the doors and the frame for them are actually made.

Material selection

It is not so important that the interior door is installed in wooden house or in a room of an urban high-rise building, the design should be not only beautiful, but also reliable, and this primarily depends on the material.

Fiberboard is perhaps the most common option. The design is a hollow box on both sides closed by thin fiberboard sheets and based on a timber frame.

You should not rush to install such a door, it is certainly light and cheap, and it may look pretty decent, but not everything is in order with reliability, such a structure can even be broken with a fist, plus it is highly likely that in a couple of years it will begin to exfoliate.

MDF is golden mean between cheap fiberboard and good wooden structure... The array is dense, durable, and most importantly completely environmentally friendly. Self-assembly interior laminated MDF canvases at home is an excellent way out if there are no funds for installers, but you want a beautiful door.

The MDF canvas should be laminated with high quality, then it will not visually differ from the wooden one.

Natural wood - traditionally it is considered that the installation of wooden doors is the most the best way, but this is wrong, here you need to look at the quality and the manufacturer's firm. Believe me, sometimes it is better to insert interior doors from good MDF laminate rather than take a raw pine tree, which in six months will lead.

When buying wooden canvases, you need to carefully evaluate the quality of the wood.

If you decide to change the interior doors and you have a high-quality wooden loot, then it is not necessary to touch it, you can only replace the canvas. In this case, the technology for installing interior doors will be much easier.

GOSTs, tolerances and unclear issues

The size of the doorway for installation is perhaps the most important of the initial parameters. To this day, all such designs are made according to Soviet GOSTs, by the way, the Chinese are also guided by these dimensions, but in Europe, despite the supposedly uniform standard, many countries do it in their own way.

So if our minimum width of the canvas starts from 600 mm and further with a step of 100 mm, it reaches 900 mm, then France produces canvases starting from 690 mm, but the graduation also goes with a step of 100 mm.

Germany, Spain and Italy, as well as all countries of the former socialist camp, in this respect are guided by practically the same standards as our manufacturers.

Interior doors have clear standards that you need to check before you install the interior door yourself.

As for the tolerances, a gap of 3 mm is left between the box and the web itself on the sides and on top. According to the rules, at least 20 mm must be made between the floor and the canvas. This gap is needed for normal ventilation in the apartment.

Along the perimeter of the box in block buildings, you can leave any gap, up to a few millimeters, the main thing is that the box becomes even, but if we cut the doors in a wooden house with our own hands, then we set the tolerance at least 15 mm, it is needed in case the house gives shrinkage.

When an interior door is selected, the installation is already the last stage, before that you need to read the description in detail, because the price may be indicated depending on the configuration, there are 3 options here:

1. Only a door leaf is sold - this option is good if the door is planned to be installed on an old frame;
2. The canvas is sold along with the box, but the box is disassembled, here, even before installing the interior door with your own hands, you will have to cut it to size and assemble the box, which in most cases is even good;
3. Fully assembled blocks with a ready-made box, curtain, locks and hinges are installed only if preparation of the opening is not required. There it is enough to cut the racks in height and install the interior door yourself.

Do not forget that it is not enough just to install interior doors in the opening, the complete installation of an interior door provides for the arrangement of platbands, accessories (if necessary) and fittings, so it is also advisable to take them right away, otherwise the shade may not be suitable later.

Installation of interior doors will not be complete without platbands and fittings.

There is another important question - when to install interior doors during renovation? So, the instructions for installing interior doors say that such structures are mounted at the very end of the repair, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling, but before installing the floor plinths.

Two mounting options

With dimensional tolerances and others sensitive issues figured out, now it's time to find out how to install the interior door yourself. But in order to assemble and install a structure, we need a tool.

A few words about the tool and related material

To install interior doors, we need:

• A hacksaw for wood, but ideally it is better to have a miter saw, it does not leave chips, plus there you can set the exact cutting angle;
• To expose the openings between the box and the wall, wedges are required;
• Hammer;
• Chisel;
• Screwdriver;
• Electric drill;
• Plumb line;
• Level;
• Pencil;
• Roulette.

Install the interior door yourself without good tool unrealistic.

Important! Safety regulations categorically prohibit cutting wood with a grinder. If your health is dear to you, do not even think about it.

Of the auxiliary materials for the installation of doors you will need:

• Polyurethane foam;
• Masking tape;
• Self-tapping screws different sizes and sections;
• Anchor bolts with dowels.

Opening preparation

Ideally, before installing the interior door, the edges of the walls should be, if not plastered, then at least leveled with a cement-sand mortar.

But in real conditions, the preparation of the doorway for the installation of an interior door ends with adjusting the dimensions to the box, because then the impartial cracks will be foamed and covered with platbands, so there is no point in creating special beauty.

It is advisable to align the doorway before installing the box.

There is one here important point: often the installation of a double interior door requires the expansion of the opening, and so, when it comes to the walls, they can be "reshaped" as you see fit. But if the wall is load-bearing, then a slight expansion of no more than 5 - 7 cm is allowed, otherwise there may be problems, both with the wall and with the law.

Assembling the box

Do-it-yourself door frame can be assembled in two ways - this is with trimming the corners of the upper bar at 45º and joining the slats at right angles. Both are fine, but a 45º corner dock is said to look more elegant.

A really high-quality corner trimming can be done only with the help of trimming, if you are assured that an ordinary plastic miter box and a hacksaw for wood are suitable for this, do not believe it, you can ruin the boxes that were made.

The vertical posts are cut to 45º first, after which you can proceed to trimming the upper horizontal plank. In order to set aside 3 mm, it is convenient to use a piece of fiberboard as a template.

We measure the gap relative to the top bar with a template.

• You put the top bar cut on one side and move it along the cut of the template;
• Then go to opposite side the door and using the same template mark the cutting line.

Trimming the top plank at an angle using a bevelling.

Now we lay out the finished, trimmed box strips on the floor and once again control the dimensions.

It looks like a door frame cut at an angle.

• The box is fastened in stages. First, you need to tightly connect the planks to each other as they should be;
• When screwing in the self-tapping screws, the strips of the box can crack, so that this does not happen, before assembling, we need to drill channels for the screws. This is done with a 2.5 mm drill (our self-tapping screw is 3.5 mm);

Preparation for fastening the box.

• Now you can screw the self-tapping screws into the ends of the box on both sides, and on each side of the corner there should be 2 self-tapping screws.

There is small nuance, the vertical bar of the box to which the hinges will be attached completely from both sides do not need to be tightened, we still have to remove it.

Fixing the box with an angle cut.

If miter saw is not in your arsenal, then it is better to fasten the box strips at a right angle. Perhaps it is not so aesthetically pleasing, but the step-by-step instructions will be somewhat simpler.

We start by trying on the upper cross member, we will cut it between the two side posts. Some craftsmen mount the crossbar above the side posts, there is not much difference, here it is already as convenient for anyone.

Along the perimeter of the box, we have a side, into which the door leaf lies when closing. To embed the upper cross member, we need to remove this side on the side racks. To do this, we apply the upper crossbar to the rack, mark and cut the side with a hacksaw, clean the place for the installation.

Now we only need to insert the upper bar between the two side posts, drill holes for a pair of self-tapping screws and fix the inserted bar with self-tapping screws.

If you decide to put the bar on top of the racks, then there you will need to cut the inner side on the upper bar, then drill and drive the screws from above, as shown in the diagram below.

Do-it-yourself installation of the bar set on top.

Installing hinges and handles

For a door, installing hinges is one of the most important steps. In principle, you can embed the lock and hang the hinges even after installing the box in the opening, but if you mount the doors yourself (without helpers), then it is better to do this right away.

Hinges are overhead and hidden. It is easier to work with overhead butterfly hinges, since you do not need to cut anything in the door leaf and frame, so we will start with them.

A little advice: if the door should open to the right side, then you insert the hinges on the right, respectively, for left-side opening, the hinges must be attached to the left pillar.

The installation of loops begins with a marking on the canvas itself. According to the rules, the distance from the upper or lower point of the canvas to the loop should be 200 - 250 mm. You can measure with a tape measure, as in the photo below, but if the tape measure is not at hand, then use the loops themselves, there standard size is equal to 100 mm.

We make markings for the installation of loops.

Do not confuse: the small (inner) part of the butterfly hinge is attached to the door leaf, and the large part, to the rack of the box. Before screwing in the screws, you need to drill holes for them, only after that the screws are driven.

All hinges have sweats for the heads of the screws, so make sure that these sweats "look" up. If the hinges are installed the other way around, then the heads of the screws will remain above the hinges, respectively, the doors will not close to the end.

We drill holes for butterfly hinges.

The box is practically assembled, now we put it on the floor and put the door leaf inside. As you remember, we should have 3 mm around the perimeter of the canvas, so we immediately insert as many homemade templates from fiberboard (3 mm thickness) between the box and the canvas.

One part of the loop is screwed to the canvas, in order to fasten the second part of the loop to the box, we make a mark on the box. Then we unscrew the self-tapping screws fixing the supporting vertical bar and fasten the counterpart of the hinges to it. Then we return the box bar to its place and fix it completely.

We fasten the hinges to the vertical rack of the box.

Self-installation of secret loops is not much more difficult than the above method. The difference is that grooves for the hinges must be cut in the door leaf and the frame. This is done with a mallet, chisel and knife.

Cut out grooves for the installation of hidden hinges

As for the installation doorknob, then you can read about this in detail, and also watch the video in this article. And do not forget that the hinges must be greased, you can learn about the rules for greasing.

There are different methods of installing interior doors in a wall opening, it all depends on the specific conditions. Next, we will consider the most simple and popular options.

Method number 1. Classic

On this moment with us, the rack of the box must be cut to the height of the opening, the hinges and the lock are embedded, the door is closed, and templates with a thickness of 3 mm are inserted between the canvas and the box.

When the door block is inserted into the opening, first of all, wooden or plastic wedges are driven around the perimeter, they will hold the block until it is finally fixed.

The classic scheme for installing interior doors using wedges.

Fixation is quite a crucial moment, here we set the block vertically and horizontally. Keep in mind: the wall is not always strictly vertical, so check the box with a plumb line.

It is better to check the vertical by a plumb line.

In order for the door block not to fall out from a strong push, it must be rigidly fixed with anchor bolts or at least with long self-tapping screws. We recommend using anchor bolts 6 - 8 mm thick.

The principle is simple:

• Drill a through hole in the box and slightly drill into the wall;
• Remove the door block and drill holes for dowels at the points of drilling;
• Put the box in place and fix it with anchors. The box should be clearly in level, since before that we have already verified everything.

If you fix the box with long self-tapping screws, then they are installed around the entire perimeter with an interval of half a meter, but the caps of the self-tapping screws need to be hidden somehow. You can close them with a decorative strip or plastic overlays.

Anchor bolts are powerful and 3 points are enough to fix the box - two points under the hinges and one under the lock plate. In combination with polyurethane foam, this is enough.

Now we fill the perimeter of the box with polyurethane foam. We move from the bottom up, the foam needs to be blown out without fanaticism, because when expanding, it can squeeze out the door frame.

Plus, at the time of blowing out the foam, the door block must be assembled and three millimeter templates must be inserted around the perimeter, this will protect the box from deformation.

Remember: the door block cannot be attached only to "bare" foam (without screws or anchors).

Method number 2. Metal hangers

If fastening the box on self-tapping screws or anchors does not suit you, the same can be done using metal hangers. These hangers are used for mounting frames for drywall.

Using hangers to fix the door frame.

The technology is similar:

1. Collect the box;
2. Insert the box into the opening and level it;
3. Fix the box with wedges in the opening;

1. Bend the wings of the hangers along the wall;
2. Mark the entry points for the dowel-nails and drill holes for them;
3. Attach the wings of the hangers to the walls with dowel-nails;
4. Fill with foam and wait until it hardens.

The size of the box for double-leaf interior doors is twice as large, respectively, there is a greater likelihood of extrusion of the pillars and crossbar with foam, therefore, installation on hangers is optimal here.

Fixing the frame for double doors with hangers.

Output

Both of the above methods have been tested in practice and work perfectly. The same craftsmen who want to install interior sliding doors we prepared step by step instructions.

Installing interior doors with your own hands is not as difficult as it seems.

Among the forefathers of door designs were simple exhibits, reminiscent of entrance flaps. Perhaps the owners of the ancient dwellings believed that they also installed doors. However, after the invention of the hinges, the need to repeatedly block the opening with them has completely disappeared every day. Now the entrance and interior "limiters" of personal space are mounted once, but for decades. To accomplish this, the owners of suburban property often turn to professional carpenters. Meanwhile the installation of doors with my own hands can be not only a successful but also an economical enterprise. You just need to study technological nuances and call on patience to help. The labor unit does not fit in the number of one person.

Brief overview of upcoming works + preparation

The door is certainly not super complicated technical system but also not simple board closing the inlet "hole". It should close without unnecessary effort, not open spontaneously, “endure” the nervous breakdowns of those who love to pat, without falling apart. In order for the structure to adequately cope with the duties, an independent home master you will need:

• assemble a box - the supporting structure of the structure;
• equip the canvas and the box beam with the accessories required for use - hinges, a simple handle or a snap-on analogue with a spring mechanism;
• ideally position and fix the box in the opening;
• hang the canvas, if necessary, making a preliminary adjustment;
• trim the result of labor with platbands.

In addition to the first two stages, the primacy between which technologies are not dictated, all other actions must be carried out in a clear sequence, having previously figured out how to correctly install interior doors in accordance with building codes.

Installation process in detail

A number of plastic and metal-plastic door blocks are supplied in full combat readiness for mounting in the opening. Everything is clear with them.

Consider the option with a box not assembled into a single element, presented to the master in the form of a set of boxed wooden bars of arbitrary length, linen and uncut planks for platbands.

Box collection options

The construction of the box is the most painstaking and responsible process. The slightest deviations in its assembly will entail, at least, complications in operation, as a maximum, the purchase of new material. At this stage, we must forget about laziness, and carry out all measurements with special care literally seven times.

Hosts who want to figure out how to install a door with their own hands in the opening interior partition, can make a base without a threshold in the shape of the letter P. This will require three bars:

• a feigned stand (aka a bar);
• loop bar;
• lintel.

If there is a desire to make a base with a threshold, a lower bar-bar of equal thickness will be added to the listed set. Then the assembled box will resemble a rectangle.

The task of the performer:

• accurately measure the size of the opening and canvas;
• calculate the dimensions of the racks and lintels, taking into account the need to ensure technological clearances;
• clearly saw off and connect the individual bars into a single solid whole.

The thickness of the self-purchased box beam must be at least the thickness of the web.

Measurements must be taken with one tape measure. Measure both the canvas and the opening along the length from the left and right sides separately, without relying on their obligatory "specularity". The identified deviations must be taken into account in further work.

What to consider when measuring:

• WITH outside parties hinge, lintel, pretend beams in contact with the planes of the opening, a gap of 1 cm must be left for mounting foam.
• On their inner side, there should also be a gap of 0.3 cm. For boxes with a threshold, this gap is maintained along the entire perimeter.
• Between the bottom plane door structure without a sill and floor, it is necessary to leave a "gap". Above the linoleum 0.8 cm, above the fleecy carpet 1.5 cm, on average 1.0 cm.

Points for sawing off vertical posts, that is real sizes door clearance with a frame, we find on the inside of the beam.

If the dimensions of the opening are insufficient, it must be increased. If the opening is too large, it is reduced by stuffing cut-to-size drywall along the P configuration.

What is the best way to cut the timber for the box?

For the production of cuts, it is better to use trimming machine, but as an alternative, a miter box with hand hacksaw... Traditionally, the technology for installing interior doors offers home craftsmen two ways to connect the elements of the box:

• With sawing of uprights and lintels at an angle of 45º... Quite a difficult option for an inexperienced carpenter, requiring attention and scrupulousness. True, the carefully executed docking looks very beautiful. Self-tapping screws are used to connect the elements. Holes for them are drilled through and through perpendicular to the cut. All holes for screws in the elements of the door structure made of MDF are made in advance in order to avoid damage to the workpieces. They are not drilled completely with a drill with a diameter equal to 3/4 of the diameter of the fastener being installed. Self-tapping screws for MDF doors you need to pick up with a groove all the way to the head.
• With an angle washed down at 90 °... The easiest way, for which a fine-toothed hacksaw is suitable. The size of the inner vertical line of the bars will be the sum of the length of the leaf, 3 mm above and 3 mm below if the door is with a threshold. For a door without a threshold, 10 mm (8-15 mm) are left at the bottom. The ceiling bar is attached to the uprights with two self-tapping screws on each side. When calculating its size, it must be remembered that there must be a distance equal to the sum of the width of the web and 6 mm required for the two side gaps between the false and the hinged beam.

For the threshold, the timber is sawn only at right angles.

Collect the box on a horizontal surface. Two tables set side by side or a cardboard floor will do.

Installation of door hardware

Arrangement interior space accompanied by an obligatory stage of fastening functional accessories.

In order to ensure unimpeded evacuation in case of emergency entrance doors should open outward.

Door hinges can be either right or left, or universal. We are used to the fact that they are usually a flag design that requires a neat cut-in. However, it is now possible to purchase devices that do not require cutting off the veneer or laminated surface under the flag by the thickness of the loop.

The standard indentation from the upper and lower edges of the canvas is 20 cm with variations in both directions of 5 cm. If a third loop is used, it is placed 50 cm from the upper line of the canvas.

The hinge attachment point to the box is calculated taking into account the technological gap. That is, from the top of the looped bar, you need to retreat not 20 cm, but 23.3 cm.

"Landing pads" for hinges should ensure that the flag is flush with the box and the canvas. They are selected with a cutter and modified with a chisel. You can do all the work only with a chisel. How to insert loops will be shown on the video:

Most do-it-yourself door installers are convinced that it is more convenient to fix the fittings before assembling the box, since the veneer for the hinges must also be selected on the hinge bar. However, this operation can be carried out on a collected basis.

Also, it will be useful to watch a video about the lock inset:

The location of the handle with a snap mechanism is determined by the owner. The standard distance is between 0.9 m and 1.2 m from the floor.

Installation and fastening of the box in the opening

Experienced craftsmen, who know perfectly well how to install the door correctly, recommend that the anchors used to fix the box in the opening be closed from above with hinge flags and a lock striker.

On three powerful and long self-tapping screws, the door structure will hold perfectly. After all, the connection will also be supported by foam.

Do not forget that to screw the screws into the MDF box beam, you need to make preliminary holes. Bathhouse owners figuring out how to install wooden door, it is not necessary to punch holes in the timber and the canvas in advance. You can drill a box from wood without preliminary preparation.

• The door base assembled on a horizontal surface is carefully (preferably together) lifted and placed in the opening.
• So that between the box and the surrounding wall there is a centimeter gap necessary for foaming, we install wedges cut from the remnants of lumber.
• We screw in the self-tapping screws.
• We align the base in vertical and horizontal directions, checking the positions with a level and a plumb line. Deviations are corrected by loosening or screwing in self-tapping screws.
• We hang the canvas on the hinges and check the operation of the door structure. There should be no distortions and discrepancies in the size of the gap between the box beam and the canvas.
• We glue the box along the future layer of polyurethane foam with construction tape, insert cardboard into the gap around the canvas, close the door.
• We fill all cavities around the base box with professional polyurethane foam with a dispenser.

It is advisable to foam it in several steps, taking into account all the manufacturer's recommendations and the degree of swelling of the composition. The door does not need to be used until the foam has completely set.

Now we can assume that you managed to assemble the structure and install the interior door with your own hands. And the experience has been gained, and there are many openings ahead, waiting for the caring master's hand. It remains only to close the not too presentable seams with platbands, the technology of the device of which is worth getting to know separately.

If you want to give your apartment a finished look after renovation, then you need to install new interior doors. Since it is the new ones that are able to create a certain comfort and at the same time harmoniously fit into the interior of the apartment, but at the same time they also separate the different living areas of the apartment from each other.

Choice of interior doors

So, before proceeding, directly, to the choice of interior doors, it is worth calling an experienced measurer. Since nobody better than a specialist will not be able to correctly measure the height and width of the doorway, and also advise which fittings and other auxiliary materials are better to install. But they will definitely be needed during the installation of interior doors.

It is worth thinking carefully before narrowing the doorway, because it standard width and so only 70-80 centimeters. Remember that you will have to bring furniture in and out through this door. Also, do not forget to measure the distance from the door frame to the wall, whether the platbands will fit completely there or will have to be sawed off a little. If you want the platband to be solid, then in this case there is no other way out but to reduce the width of the doorway. And most importantly, what you need to pay attention to, in which direction the doors will open, so that later there is no discomfort during their opening.

If you will, then be prepared that this occupation is very painstaking and responsible and will require maximum attention and concentration from you. Therefore, it is worth approaching the installation of doors with a sober memory and a clear head. If you make a mistake during the installation of the doors, then as a result the door will stand obliquely, crookedly, or will not open at all. Well, now imagine what will happen if you still poorly secure the door frame? That's right, there is little good in this.

Well, okay, you have chosen new interior doors, they were even delivered to you and brought into the apartment. And here look carefully, it so happens that some manufacturers sell their doors directly from already assembled box... If so, then you are in luck. If not, then you will have to assemble the door frame yourself. Remember, during the installation of doors and fittings, you should not make hasty decisions, everything must be done carefully and accurately.

Preparing the door frame

So, the installation of a new interior door begins with the dismantling of the old one. To do this, you need to remove the old door from its hinges, then saw the door frame in several places and pull it out. After that, the doorway is cleaned of pieces of old plaster and poorly adhering cement. And now you can proceed directly to the installation new door... First of all, you will need to make a crossbar and attach it to the top of the door. In this case, it will be necessary to mark with a pencil the distance that will need to be cut. Likewise with longitudinal bars. Now, with the help of self-tapping screws, it will be necessary to fasten the crossbars together.

The main thing to remember here is that there must be a gap of 3-5 millimeters between the door and the door frame. It is this gap that will allow the door to open and close easily. Now it will be necessary. Remember, first the hinge cuts into the door leaf, and only then into the frame. The hinges are cut at a distance of about 20 centimeters from the top and bottom edge of the door. Now you should attach a loop to the mark and circle its outline. After that, a chisel will need to make a recess for the loop. After the notch is made, it is worth putting a box on the canvas and circle the same contour, but already on the box. It is very important to remember about a gap of 3-5 millimeters between the door leaf and the upper crossbar of the frame. Another important point during the insertion of the hinges is from which side the doors will open. Remember that there are left and right loops, so check seven times, and only then start cutting loops.

Door frame installation

Well, now the door frame is ready, now you can start installing it. Installing the door frame is perhaps the most important and crucial stage. The door frame will need to be installed in the doorway, then level it and be sure to center it in level. If necessary, between the box and the opening are inserted wooden blocks, and only then the spacer wedges are driven in. Now take a drill or hammer drill and drill three holes in each of the posts. Then pull the door frame out of the opening and drill holes for the dowels according to the marks on the wall. Now put the box back, insert the dowels, center the box if necessary, and only then start screwing in the screws. The caps of the self-tapping screws must be immersed in the box, and then closed with caps.

Now you take the door and hang it on the box, be sure to check that it opens freely. If everything is fine and you do not need to adjust anything, then you can safely proceed to the inset of the door handle. Well, the final stage of door installation is to seal the gap between the wall and the frame. After that polyurethane foam it dries up, its excess is cut off, and the platband is nailed.

Video - installation of interior doors