In order to install a water supply system, it is not at all necessary to always resort to the expensive services of specialists. The article describes the installation sequence step by step metal-plastic pipes for DIY plumbing when renovating a bathroom. Using it, you will do similar work yourself.

Properties of metal-plastic pipes

Metal-plastic pipes are currently widely used for the installation of pipelines for heating and water supply systems. Compared to traditional steel, they have several valuable properties, due to which they are most often used:

• metal-plastic pipes do not rust and their inner surface no deposits are formed;
• have a long service life, manufacturers guarantee a service life of up to 50 years;
• simple and technological installation does not require special qualifications from the performer;
• relatively low price of materials and installation costs.

For installation of water supply major renovation For the bathroom, the customer chose from several alternative options metal-plastic pipes with connections using press fittings.

Preparation for installation

We come up with the configuration of the future water supply system. It was decided that the use of collectors was not practical. This makes the pipeline more expensive, but does not provide any operational advantages. Therefore, it was decided to make pipeline branches to individual water collection points using tees.

After purchasing all the necessary fittings, we laid them out on the floor in the order in which they would be connected in the pipeline. This “rehearsal” made it possible to make sure that all fittings were purchased correctly.

For installation of the water supply we have prepared the following tools and auxiliary materials:

1. Special scissors for cutting metal plastic and a calibrator.
2. Press pliers for crimping connections.
3. Adjustable and gas wrenches.
4. Flax and sealing paste.

Before the installation of the pipeline in the bathroom began, the necessary preparatory work. All the old plumbing was dismantled along with the pipes, the walls were plastered with the preliminary installation of beacons. After the plaster had dried, sufficiently loose grooves for the pipes were cut into the wall.

Installation of water supply

Connecting pipes with press fittings involves two operations:

1. Use scissors to cut the pipe to the required length. Using a calibrator, we correct the shape of the cut and chamfer simultaneously from the outer and inner surfaces of the pipe.
2. Insert the pipe into the fitting sleeve until it stops. The end of the pipe should be visible through special inspection holes. Use pliers to crimp the fitting twice.

The photograph shows that as a result of crimping, two annular compressions are formed on the sleeve.

To simplify the work, we first assemble the individual parts of the water pipe. For example, we crimp water sockets for installing a mixer and attach them to a special mounting plate.

We install the prepared pieces of pipeline in their appropriate place and secure them. The mounting strips are attached to the wall using dowels and screws, the pipes are carefully bent and laid into the grooves.

We connect the assembled parts of the water supply system into a single whole on site. The crimping pliers device allows you to rotate the tool handles into a position convenient for work.

We continue to sequentially install all parts of the water supply system and connect it to the hot and cold water. To make it possible to replace water meters and taps in the future, we make the connection of the pipeline to the meters collapsible, using “American” ones.

The entire work of installing the pipeline from metal-plastic pipes took an hour and a half. Upon completion of installation, we put plugs on all water outlets, opened the taps on the risers and left the pipeline with water under pressure for several days. The grooves were not covered to check the connections for leaks. Work on finishing the bathroom continued at this time.

The installed water supply system turned out to be airtight: there were no leaks in any connection. You can fill the grooves with plaster and finish tiling the walls.

Helpful Tips:

1. The connection on press fittings is non-separable. If there is an error, it cannot be redone. It is useful to have a few spare fittings in case this happens.
2. You don’t have to buy press jaws; you can rent them.
3. Metal-plastic pipes must be bent with caution. If the pipe wall becomes damaged during bending, the pipe should be replaced.
4. To prevent the pipe from experiencing excessive stress under the plaster when heating and cooling from water, it is better not to smear it directly into the plaster: place an electric corrugation on the pipe. For a pipe with a diameter of 16 mm, a 25 mm corrugation is ideal.

We hope the article will be useful to you, and you will be able to install a pipeline from a metal-plastic pipe with a connection using press fittings yourself.

Many people have a preconceived idea that the connections of metal-plastic pipes, as well as PERT and PEX pipes, with fittings are unreliable and leak. Let’s figure out where this “fame” came from and why it doesn’t correspond to reality.

How to properly connect metal-plastic and other similar pipes, and make heating and water supply pipelines from them?

Several types of metal-plastic pipe connections

Several types of fittings are used (crosses, angles, couplings...) to connect metal-plastic pipes.

Push fitting connection

Here the pipe is put on a fitting with a seal, and is crimped with a ring with antennae (a disc washer). There is an obvious click. The antennae of the ring are located opposite the direction of separation and prevent the pipe from moving back.

Push appeared relatively recently, and according to some experts, it appeared “for the sake of extorting money through advertising, since it has no usefulness.”

Indeed, manufacturers do not give the go-ahead to embed this connection in concrete. The resulting connection looks “flimsy”; the pipe rotates in the fitting, when great effort can be undocked back.

Combined with the fact that the price of such a fitting is 2 times more than the usual compression or crimp fitting, it is difficult for this connection to gain popularity without advertising.

The main complexity of connecting with any type of fitting is preparing the metal-plastic pipe - determining its length, marking, cutting to size, shaping the cut edge, aligning the end part, chamfering, and calibrating.

And not at all in the docking process itself. If you know all this, then Push-docking appears even more as the last thing needed in the household.

How should a pipe be prepared for joining?

To connect to any type of fitting, the metal-plastic pipe must be prepared.
To do this, you need to have a couple of special tools - pipe cutting scissors and a calibrator with an internal chamfering function.]

The pipe is supplied in coils. After cutting with a metal hacksaw, you get a piece of curved pipe, including one bent at the end, with a crumpled semi-oval end, with burrs along the edge and with sharp edges. Such a pipe will damage the seal on any fitting if you try to push it onto the fitting.

Needs to be cut with scissors. If this expensive tool is not available, then after using the hacksaw, you need to carefully align the end with a file and remove burrs.

It is necessary to manually align the final section of the pipe, no less than 5 diameters long.
The outlet hole must be forcefully calibrated (made exactly round) and at the same time the internal chamfer must be removed at an angle of 45 degrees.

Only after this can you begin docking.
Reducing the labor intensity of docking with Push does not have a priority value compared to its disadvantages...

Press fitting connection

The most reliable, non-separable connection of metal-plastic pipes is using a press joint.
Here the pipe slides onto a brass fitting with a pair of seals located in deep grooves.

The pipe around the fitting is crimped with a special metal sleeve, which is crushed and crimped only with a special tool - press pliers. The pipe should be pushed all the way and visible in the sleeve window.

This connection, according to manufacturers, has a reliability close to 99.99%. The connection is recommended by manufacturers of press fittings for use inside structures, including in walls and in screeds (but in heated floor loops, any joints are unacceptable).

No leaks have been recorded, except in cases where obviously counterfeit parts were used.

Connecting a metal-plastic pipeline using a Press is considered professional. It is practically impossible to do “with your own hands” due to the high price of a special tool - press pliers (manual (hydraulic, electric) press for crimping sleeves on plastic pipelines).

In order to assemble heating in your home with your own hands, it is many times more profitable to use compression fittings, or in extreme cases, a push joint, but do not purchase press pliers with attachments “for fabulous money.”
Unless you can rent such an instrument at a reasonable price...

Connecting a metal-plastic pipe with a compression fitting

The oldest and most “problematic” connection is compression (or threaded...). The fittings are usually brass. A thrust ring made of fluoroplastic and steam is installed on the brass fitting rubber seals. But here the seals do not sit so deep in their grooves, so they are easier to tear out of place.

The pipe must be placed over these seals and pushed all the way into the fluoroplastic. Then, the split ring, previously placed on the pipe, under the influence of the nut, compresses the pipe at the location of the rubber seals.

To assemble this metal-plastic pipe connection with your own hands, you will need a pair of keys.
With one wrench, the installer tightens the nut that compresses the ring.
The second adjustable wrench holds the fitting itself. Assembly is very easy, crackling at the joint is normal.

The connection is dismountable - it can be tightened (increase the tightening torque), it can be disassembled, the undamaged fitting can be removed and used in another place, replacing cheap seals.

The joint cannot be walled into the wall, according to the manufacturers' recommendations.

The advantage of docking is the extreme affordability of the fitting in terms of price and complexity of installation. All you need is two keys and a little diligence.

But this connection is leaking. Why?
WITH cold water, as a rule, there is no leak, but on hot water supply or heating, dripping sometimes starts from under the nut. If you tighten the nut, the leak is eliminated for a while, then it appears again.

Leaking from a metal-plastic pipeline at a connection - why, what to do?
Additionally -

Why does a metal-plastic pipeline leak?

The compression joint is the oldest; it was assembled by tens of thousands by many craftsmen. Often the assembly went like this: oval pipe with force it was pressed onto the fitting, crushing and tearing off the seals with a sharp edge and burrs, moving them towards the thrust washer. Then the nut was tightened “conscientiously”.

Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) was deformed and reliably crimped brass pipe. So much so that without changing the temperature, this place remained leak-free throughout its entire service life. But where significant temperature expansions occurred, the elasticity of the thin-walled metal-plastic pipe was not enough.

When the connection cooled, a gap formed and liquid began to leak. After tightening the nut, the compression intensified, crushing the material, but due to heating-cooling cycles, everything repeated again. Until the next diligent tightening of the nut broke the thread.

What to do to prevent the connection with the fitting from leaking

To prevent the compression connection of a metal-plastic pipe with a fitting from leaking, you need to do the following.

• Cut the pipe with scissors. If such a tool is expensive, then carefully use a round file on the file, leveling the cut and removing all burrs.
• Align the final section of the pipe (from 5 diameters) manually.
• Calibrate with a hand calibrator very carefully to achieve an even round hole. At the same time, use a high-quality calibrator to remove the internal chamfer at 45 degrees.
• Lubricate the fitting and seals with liquid soap.
• Place the pipe onto the fitting and onto the seals without distortion until it touches the washer.
• Tighten the ring nut without applying excessive force.

As you can see, it is not very difficult to install a metal-plastic pipe with your own hands without leaks - you just need to comply simple rules connections.
And yes..... - the connection to a proprietary compression fitting, made correctly, with the pipe compressed onto the seals located in the grooves, does not leak at all, including for hot water supply and heating.

When laying modern systems water supply pipes are installed from metal-plastic. Before the advent of metal-plastic, installation water pipes was a large-scale event in which many specialists were involved. Currently, the installation of metal-plastic pipes is technologically simple, which means that you can do it yourself, for example, installing a heating system. The corresponding instructions, as well as the photos and videos presented in the article, will allow you to master the technological schemes for installing metal-plastic pipes.

What are they made of?

Five-layer metal-plastic pipes are manufactured. The outside of the pipe is cross-linked polyethylene. Inside is food grade plastic. The central part is a layer of aluminum. The aluminum and polyethylene layers are connected using glue, the quality of which is the main factor so that the metal-plastic does not delaminate during thermal expansion.

You can get acquainted with the design of metal-plastic by studying best photos and videos that will allow you to be even more convinced of the enormous advantages of metal-plastic pipes.

Specifications

The main characteristics of metal-plastic pipes are presented:

• thickness of the tube walls;
• pipe diameter size;
• pipe bending radius recognized as acceptable.

Metal-plastic pipes are manufactured with an outer diameter of 16-53mm. The most popular diameter of a metal-plastic pipe is 16mm, since such metal-plastic pipes are inexpensive to install (and fittings for them are inexpensive). The wall thickness of the metal-plastic pipe can be 2 and 3.5 mm. The size of the pipe bending radius, considered acceptable, depends on the pipe installation technology (80-550mm if the pipe is bent manually, and 50-180mm if a pipe bender is used). To find out more accurately about the sizes of metal-plastic pipes, their installation process, and types of fittings, we recommend looking at the best photos.

Connection methods

You can connect metal-plastic ones by installing fittings, the range of which is presented:

• compression fittings (threaded);
• press fittings (press fittings);
• sliding fittings.

You can study the structure of a fitting, the features of connecting fittings, and the process of installing a fitting on a pipe by watching the best photos and videos that will give a complete understanding of the fitting installation technology. Using fittings to connect pipes has a lot of advantages, and the best photos that offer instructions for installing metal-plastic pipes will help you become familiar with the advantages of fittings (and how to install fittings yourself without special skills).

The choice of compression fittings, which are considered more expensive for installation, is determined by the ability to removably connect pipes. Today, the market offers compression fittings for pipes (the design of such fittings can be seen in the photo) of various types.

It is better to use compression fittings connecting metal-plastic pipes (the components of compression fittings for pipes in the photo) for installing cold water pipes. Compression fittings designed to connect metal-plastic pipes are installed using a simple set of tools. Your own hands and keys are what you need to easily install a compression fitting on a pipe.

When installing plumbing, underfloor heating or heating, installation of the system requires the use of press fittings (learn how this is done using the best photos). To install a press fitting attached to a metal-plastic pipe, you will need a certain set of tools (shown in the photo). Connections with fittings (with the exception of press fittings) are detachable, and therefore it is not advisable to install joints in the wall to avoid leaks in the metal-plastic pipe in the future (study the rules and photos, which show how to combine pipes using compression and press fittings).

Pros and cons

The advantages of metal-plastic pipes are:

• long service life of pipes (up to fifty years);
• light weight of pipes;
• increased resistance to aggressive influences;
• passing a large volume of water;
• ease of installation of pipes (plumbing, heating, heated floors), so installation of metal-plastic pipes is easy, even if you only use simple tools and your hands;
• resistance to blockages;
• high level of plasticity;
• low heat conductivity;
• suitability of pipes for repair and its simplicity;
• antistatic properties of metal-plastic pipes;
• the aesthetic appeal of pipes, which allows them to be used for installation of heating, underfloor heating, and water supply systems.

The advantages of such pipes can be appreciated by the best photos, which clearly demonstrate what systems they can be used for installation (plumbing, underfloor heating, heating).

Metal-plastic pipes have disadvantages:

• low resistance of pipes to UV radiation;
• lower (compared to steel and copper pipes) temperature resistance and strength;
• electrostaticity of pipes;
• the inability to use pipes such as ground electrodes;
• the need to maintain pipes (subject to the presence of compression fittings);
• inability to install fittings in concrete (when installing compression fittings).

Installation rules

To comply with the technological aspects of installing metal-plastic pipes, creating heating and plumbing (see photo on how to make the installation yourself), allows you to follow the installation rules:

1. Before installation, metal-plastic pipes must be placed in indoors or under a canopy.
2. When unloading metal-plastic pipes, you need to act carefully.
3. Optimal temperature regime when metal-plastic pipes can be installed - not lower than plus 10 degrees.
4. When the laying is open, the installation of metal-plastic pipes should be done in places protected from various types of influences.
5. During installation, metal-plastic pipes must not be excessively bent.
6. Secure the metal-plastic pipe, as it bends easily.
7. Make the installation in such a way that there is no load on the metal-plastic pipes.
8. If you need to install the pipeline in the wall, purchase special sleeves.

Following the installation rules, it is quite easy and quick to install a water supply system with your own hands, laying metal-plastic pipes and using the appropriate tools. It’s better to look at the photo for this. When installing a water supply system created by laying metal-plastic pipes with your own hands, you must follow the installation rules that determine the features of the installation technology. The technology for laying water pipes, according to the installation rules, includes the following sequence of actions:

• First, the installation of a water supply system, done with your own hands from metal-plastic pipes, consists of developing a diagram of the planned water supply network (photos will show how to draw it up). It is better to install a water supply system with a small number of fittings.
• The installation diagram determines the length of pipes required for installing the water supply system and the number of fittings.
• When installing a water supply system done by yourself, the diagram marks the places where fastenings will be made according to the technology.
• Fittings of different types are selected. When installing a water supply system with your own hands, you will need compression fittings (to install them, wrenches are used as tools), and when installing a water supply system, press fittings are crimped with a tool such as press pliers.
• When installing metal-plastic pipes, bending is done manually (with your own hands) or with a spring tool inserted into the pipe.
• According to the technology for installing a water supply system created by yourself, it is important to evaluate the water supply system for leaks at the end of the process (the corresponding photos will tell you how to do this).

Compliance with the main rules and technologies when installing a water supply system done by yourself (the process using fittings can be studied from the photo from our website) allows you to create a reliable water supply system. At the same time, the better the installation of fittings (press or compression), the less often the water supply will need to be serviced. And to find out what installation of fittings of any type (press and compression) is, photos will allow you to find out better than any instructions.

The rules for heating installation, determined by the corresponding heating installation technology, are as follows:

• Attach metal-plastic pipes laid for heating at a distance of no more than 0.5 m so that they do not sag and thermal circulation is not disrupted.
• The temperature regime that metal-plastic pipes laid for heating must withstand is plus 95 degrees.

Concealed heating installation requires press fittings. Threaded fittings are used when outdoor heating installation is carried out. Better and more detailed information about the features of heating installation made from metal-plastic pipes, and about which fittings are suitable for this, can be found in the photo.

Compression fitting installation

When installing a compression fitting (study the corresponding photos), a person uses the following tools:

• scissors capable of cutting such pipes;
• keys;
• fine-grained “skin”;
• sweep and calibration.

The compression fitting is installed (you can study the process by looking at the photo) in the following sequence:

• Straighten the metal-plastic pipe from the cut point 10 cm in each direction.
• Mark where to cut and make the cut with a special tool.
• Sand the cut section of the metal-plastic pipe and make it round.
• Place the fitting on the metal-plastic pipe, and then put on the compression ring.
• Moisten the fitting with water and place it on the pipe so that it comes into even contact with the fitting.
• Tighten the nut into the fitting. Tighten it using tools such as keys.
• Check how well the installation was done using a compression fitting (if there are any leaks).

Installation of a press fitting on a metal-plastic pipe

When laying metal-plastic pipes intended for heated floors, plumbing, heating, installation of press fittings performed with your own hands will require the use of the same tools as installation of compression fittings (the difference is that in the first case, instead of keys, press pliers are needed) . Installing a press fitting is somewhat different from installation when compression fittings are used. Installation of metal-plastic pipes, intended, for example, for heating, is done in stages:

• Before direct installation, straighten the metal-plastic pipe where it will be cut (mark this area).
• The next step when installing metal-plastic pipes is cutting the metal-plastic pipe using a certain tool.
• Remove any unevenness in the cut area using sanding paper.
• After calibration during the installation process, carried out with the appropriate tool, the pipe is equipped with a crimp coupling.
• Place gasket material on the fitting nipple for insulation.
• Insert the fitting into the metal-plastic pipe and compress it using a tool called a press pliers. If done correctly, the fitting coupling will have a pair of uniform rings.

In heating systems, press fittings are used during the installation process. To carry out the correct installation of heating, you must adhere to the instructions according to which high-quality installation metal-plastic pipes (shown in the photo).

Installation using threaded (collet) fittings: video

Creating heating or underfloor heating - if their installation cannot be done without compression (threaded) fittings, you should adhere to the main rules described earlier. The installation steps, when metal-plastic pipes serve as the main materials for creating heating or heated floors, are identical to those described above (in the chapter on installing compression fittings). We suggest you better see the process with your own eyes by watching the video and studying the corresponding photos.

Installation using press fittings: video

Press fittings, being reliable connectors when installing heating and heated floors, allow you to reduce the cost of laying heating pipelines and heated floors. The installation of press fittings must be carried out according to the installation rules, using a tool called press pliers.

You can learn in detail about how to install heating and heated floors using press fittings using photos and videos, from which you can learn about the main rules and requirements for installation. And the steps for installing metal-plastic pipes related to heating or underfloor heating (if the pipes are connected with press fittings), subject to the main installation rules, were described above (in the section on the installation of press fittings).

When laying metal-plastic pipes intended for heated floors, plumbing, and heating, there are basic installation rules. Experts advise:

1. When selecting metal-plastic pipes and fittings (press and compression) necessary for installation, give preference to one manufacturer.
2. When compression fittings are involved in the installation, do not use much force when tightening the nut (to prevent cracks from appearing).
3. Crimp the press fittings only once during installation (repeated crimping is not permitted).
4. For systems with hot water(in particular heating) choose press fittings.
5. Do not save when purchasing fittings, since it is fittings (press and compression) that are the weak element when laying metal-plastic pipes.

Water supply from metal-plastic pipes is the most common option for installing water supply systems in houses and apartments. They have firmly reigned in this market segment. And there are good reasons for this.

On this page we will describe all the pros and cons of such a water supply system, and also describe in detail how to install metal-plastic pipes with your own hands, how to connect them using fittings, etc.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal-plastic water supply

There are several objective indicators that allow metal-plastic pipes to outshine their competitors when installing a water supply system in an apartment or house:

1. Easy to install. If the work is carried out carefully, it can be performed by anyone without any preparation. In practice, this is something like a construction set, the assembly of which does not require expensive tools or special skills.
2. Reliability. The 50-year guarantee is proof of this. But note that this applies to pipes, not their connections.
3. Price. One thing can be said: “Cheaper, but for nothing.” Some competition in this parameter may come from polypropylene pipes, but otherwise they lose.

Based on the above, water supply using metal-plastic pipes is reliable, inexpensive, and you can assemble it yourself. Naturally, connecting to the central system is the prerogative of professionals.

It's unfortunate, but Every barrel of honey has its own fly in the ointment. In the case of metal-plastic water supply, these are fittings.

A fitting is a device with which you can:

In our case we are talking about metal-plastic pipes. If the fitting has the same diameter at both ends, then it is straight; and if different, then transitional.

But these are only their varieties according to their intended purpose, but according to the method of fixation, all fittings are divided into crimp and press fittings.

1. Compression fittings. Otherwise called ring-shaped, or serviced. In these, fixation is carried out due to the conical shape, inner surface, crimp nut, which, when tightened, compresses the cutting ring. Such connections can be disassembled and require periodic maintenance. Usually once a year, compression fittings on metal-plastic pipes through which the hot water, you should check and, if necessary, tighten it a little. The reason for their weakening is temperature deformation from hot water. For their installation, two gas (adjustable) wrenches are required.
2. Press fittings. Or maintenance-free, they are fixed on the pipe by pressing in a special crimp sleeve. The work is carried out using press tongs. They can be manual or electric. The first ones cost from 4 tr., the second ones from 25 tr. The connection turns out to be permanent, but with a guarantee against leaks, regardless of the water temperature. Most often, press fittings are used in connections that will be walled into walls, or with difficult access after repairs.

The reliability and quality of connections depend on the scrupulous execution of instructions. But for the price... Although press fittings are cheaper than crimp fittings, their total cost for installing water supply in an apartment is equal to the cost of metal-plastic pipes.

Planning a water supply system “on paper”

The most important and paramount thing is the water supply layout plan. If you have never done this, then compose it with clean slate it is possible without any particular difficulties, although this undertaking is quite painstaking. But it all starts with the consumer.

1. It is necessary to designate the places where the taps will be. This is the kitchen and bathroom. With proper construction, they are usually located nearby, which makes organizing a water supply system easier and significantly reduces the cost. IN ideal, if they are located in adjacent rooms, only one pipe will be required, from which branches will go through a tee to different rooms.
2. The place where water enters the house is indicated. There are only two options: central water supply or a private well (well). Depending on this, additional equipment may be required. In particular, when using water from a well, it is necessary to install a hydraulic accumulator (above the consumer level). From it, water will flow by gravity into the house. This system is preferable because it does not require the pump to be turned on constantly. The hydraulic accumulator does not have to be metal. It can be “poured” from concrete. And already installed in the house:
3. Filter system (configuration depending on water quality).
4. Boiler.

Accordingly, if water enters the house from the central water supply system, then only monitoring devices will need to be installed at the entrance to account for consumption.

This circuit diagram. It is unacceptable to make recommendations on a filtration system without knowing the quality of the water. The same applies to the water heating system. Depending on the conditions, the boiler can be electric or gas. Using a liquid or solid fuel water heater is not economical and is associated with certain difficulties. Especially in the summer.

Required tools and materials

A string unwinds from the taps along the wall. In places of bending or branching, nails are hammered in and the direction changes. Accordingly, two (or three) strings will already go from the tees. Having marked the entire system in this way, it is necessary to draw its location on the wall. You can use chalk or water-based emulsion.

Only after this, the string must be removed and its length measured. Additionally, count the number of fittings and their types.

IMPORTANT: increase the resulting pipe footage by 10%. This is common practice.

Regarding the choice of pipe diameter, there is already an established opinion. For almost all residential buildings and apartments, a metal-plastic pipe ᴓ16 mm is more than enough. It provides a supply of up to 3 m 3 /hour. And most water meters are not designed for higher flow rates. And why more?

Choosing a manufacturer of metal-plastic pipes is perhaps the most difficult task. There are quite often fakes on the market. Buy a pipe from a reputable store or from trusted suppliers. We recommend that you refrain from purchasing metal-plastic pipes from Chinese manufacturers. Negative reviews are too common. The highest quality metal-plastic pipes are produced in Belgium ( Henco), Germany ( Frankische and Sanha).

What tools you will need:

• Cutter for metal-plastic pipes (from 250 rubles).
• Caliber with countersink (from 200 RUR).
• Conductor (from 500 rubles).
• Press tongs (from RUR 4,000, but can be rented).
• Two gas (or adjustable) wrenches.
• Hammer.
• Screwdriver.

How to use the tool

The caliber restores the shape of the pipe after cutting, and the countersink removes the chamfer and removes burrs. If the caliber is without a countersink, then its work can be done using fine sandpaper.

The conductor is used to bend a metal-plastic pipe. It can be external and internal. In some cases, using the internal one is more convenient, because it does not slip in your hands. But it is not always possible, because the bend point may be far from the end of the pipe. Therefore, we recommend choosing an external conductor.

Press pliers will be required if you will be using maintenance-free fittings. Based on 16 years of experience, we recommend press fittings. And there is only one reason. Most residents forget about servicing their compression fittings after a year. And this leads to leaks. But the choice is yours.

From consumables You will need: self-tapping screws, fastenings for metal-plastic pipes, FUM tape.

The process of installing metal-plastic pipes

It is necessary to begin the installation of a metal-plastic water supply from the source to the consumer (to the taps). Unwind a piece of pipe from the roll to the nearest fitting, and cut it with a knife. Calibrate, deburr and chamfer. Then insert the pipe into the fitting until it stops. The press fittings have special holes to control the depth. The edge of the metal-plastic pipe should be visible in them. Then insert the fitting into the pliers and crimp the connection.

Compression fittings are secured using the nuts and rings included in the kit.

Working with press pliers with your own hands is quite simple, since you won’t be able to insert the fitting “crookedly” into it.

All press jaws have replaceable pipe jaws different diameters. Don't go wrong when choosing sponges.

The installation process for compression fittings is slightly different. First, a nut is put on the prepared piece of pipe, then a cutting ring, and after that, the pipe is inserted into the body of the fitting itself. Before tightening the nut, we strongly recommend winding with FUM tape. Only two or three turns are required. You need to start from the edge of the thread and wind it while holding the tape taut. After this, moisten the thread with sunflower oil. This technique will protect against leaks!

The nut is first tightened by hand until it stops. And only then, holding the fitting with one gas wrench, tighten the clamping nut with the other. You don't have to pull with all your might, but you do need to apply a little force.

Installation using press jaws

The metal-plastic pipe should be fixed to the wall every meter. Special fasteners are fixed into the surface through a self-tapping screw, and a pipe is inserted into them.

In those places where this is permissible, the pipe can be bent using a jig. To do this, put a conductor on the pipe, bring it to the desired location, and carefully, holding the product with your hands at a distance equidistant from the target location, bend the pipe in the desired plane. Considering that the bending radius of a metal-plastic pipe is equal to its 8 diameters, this approach is not practical everywhere.

Checking and eliminating leaks

After installing the metal-plastic pipes, connect them to the tap using the hoses included in the kit. Then go along all the routes again and visually check the integrity of the assembly.

Pay attention to tees and splitters. Sometimes, being carried away by one branch, the installer forgets about fixing the pipe in another.

Open the taps at the end of the water supply (kitchen and bathroom). And only after that, slowly, in order to avoid possible water hammer, open the water supply valve to the system. It is most convenient to perform this stage with a partner. He must control the water output at the final destination. As soon as the water starts flowing, to flush the pipes, let it drain for 2-3 minutes. Then close the outlet valves, this will increase the pressure in the system, and go along the entire route of laying the pipe. Check all connections. If in doubt, run a paper towel (or toilet paper) over the surface of the fittings. Don't confuse condensation with a leak!

We guarantee that if you have completed the work according to our recommendations, then in 99.9% there will be no leaks. If any connection causes you reasonable concern, then tighten it a little.

Do-it-yourself water supply from metal-plastic pipes Video

Detailed instructions for installing metal-plastic pipes and connecting them with fittings. All about how to assemble a water supply system in an apartment or house with your own hands with Video

How to properly install metal-plastic pipes with your own hands

In the life of modern man, an important place is occupied by the transfer of various substances, in particular water, over a distance, using supply systems - pipelines, the most important and extensive part of which are pipes.

Thanks to the wide range of products today, every homeowner has the opportunity to independently assemble a plumbing system using products from any suitable material. This article will tell you about the installation of metal-plastic pipes for water supply with your own hands, the characteristics and advantages of such products.

Construction of metal-plastic pipes and their advantages

Products of this type consist of three main layers and two layers, from the inside out:

1. A layer of molecularly compacted or cross-linked polyethylene.
2. Adhesive layer between the inner layer and aluminum foil.
3. Aluminum layer.
4. A layer of adhesive connecting aluminum and the outer layer of a polymer substance.
5. Outer plastic layer.

Advantages of products made from this material:

• comparatively small weight compared to metal elements, which greatly facilitates all maintenance operations, scheduled or unscheduled repairs, dismantling and installation of metal-plastic pipes;
• no threat of corrosion, since the inner and outer layers of the products are made of plastic that does not deteriorate under the influence of water;
• thanks to aluminum reinforcement, the coefficient of linear expansion is very low;
• A consequence of the previous paragraph is the possibility of not maintaining ideal accuracy during calculations and preparation of products for installation.

Among the disadvantages of metal-plastic pipes are the following;

• their mechanical strength and resistance to overloads are still less than that of metal elements;
• the upper thresholds of operating temperature and pressure are also not so high.

A few words about the layout of the plumbing system

Laying out metal-plastic pipes with your own hands is generally not difficult; The process begins with the installation of ball valves on the riser. At this stage, it is necessary to select fittings especially carefully, giving preference to high-quality products suitable for use at operating pressures of at least 60 atm. and temperatures of about 150°C.

It is clear that since no one can vouch for the quality of Chinese products and they can fail at any moment, it is best to avoid purchasing them, choosing more expensive but reliable options.

This is all the more significant if you consider that it is through ball valves that, in the event of a leak, the system shuts off the flow of water into the apartment.

By selecting good taps and having installed them, you can continue to install water supply from metal-plastic pipes with your own hands.

The following preparatory stages of arranging a water supply system:

1. Installation of a filter for deep cleaning and a water meter.
2. Installation of a filter designed for fine cleaning.
3. Introduction to pressure reducer circuit.
4. Installation of a collector, from which metal pipes will subsequently be discharged, connected in a variety of ways and subsequently connected to plumbing fixtures.

Despite the fact that the internal surface of cross-linked polyethylene is quite resistant to small abrasive particles, installation of cleaning filters in a system with metal-plastic pipes is necessary: ​​a large amount of sand, metal particles or pieces of scale can damage not only the pipeline, but also the output devices.

The collector must be installed to ensure the same intensity of moisture supply from the common riser to all plumbing elements - sinks, washing machine and toilet.

Typically, the manifold has two to four outlets. If there are more devices in the house that require fluid supply, it is possible to choose collectors with the appropriate number of outlets.

Fittings for metal-plastic products

The most important issue that needs to be clarified home handyman, - how to properly install metal-plastic pipes. Usually, special connecting elements - fittings - are used for this purpose.

They come in two types:

1. Press fittings (mounted by pressing).
2. Screw (compression type).

Features of installation with compression fittings

These products are characterized by:

• the strength of the connection is ensured by the pressure of the screwed nut on the open ferrule;
• no need to look for special tools for connecting pipes: just two are enough wrenches, one of which holds the installation site, and the other tightens the crimp nut;
• the need to use as few intermediate connections as possible when laying metal-plastic pipes with your own hands;
• the possibility of gradually weakening the strength of the connection, as a result of which it is necessary to tighten the crimp nuts from time to time; Because of this, it is not recommended to lay pipes installed in this way in walls or floors.

Avoid last problem possible by replacing crimping products with press fittings.

Features of installation using press fittings

Such products are more reliable and durable (service life - at least 50 years), can withstand working pressure up to 10 bar and ensures easy pipe installation.

The only drawback is the need to use a special pressing machine, manual or hydraulic with a microprocessor.

1. Cut a piece of pipe to the required length.
2. Chamfer the ends and adjust the diameter of the product.
3. A sleeve made of stainless steel is placed on the end.
4. Insert the prepared part of the pipe with the fitting until it stops.
5. Using the grip of the press machine, they take the sleeve and compress it, bringing the handles of the press together.

To ensure a durable connection, the following rules should be followed:

• pipes do not tolerate ultraviolet rays and mechanical damage well, so lay them open method is possible only where these factors do not exist (read also: “How metal-plastic pipes are assembled - step by step guide making connections");
• when laying hidden, it is necessary to provide access to the fittings by providing various windows and removable panels during installation;
• when you need to pass pipes through the structure of a house, choose a sleeve with a diameter that is 5-10 mm larger than the similar external parameter of the pipe. Non-flammable material is inserted into the gap, which, when compressed, promotes the longitudinal movement of the pipe;
• when mounting products on walls, use suspensions and supports supplied by the same manufacturer, and insulate the metal parts of the fastenings with soft material;
• Damage to the surface of the product must not be allowed.

If you follow these tips, assembling a water supply system will be simple and not particularly expensive.

Installation of metal-plastic pipes: do-it-yourself water supply, how to install it correctly, laying, water supply distribution, installation

Installation of metal-plastic pipes: do-it-yourself water supply, how to install it correctly, laying, water supply distribution, installation

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes

When constructing pipelines of any type of water supply, do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes is now successfully used.

Due to their design, metal-plastic pipes have a number of advantages that distinguish them from other types of similar products.

Assembling a metal-plastic pipeline

Advantages and design of metal-plastic pipes

Structurally, metal-plastic pipes have five layers:

1. The inner layer of the product is made from cross-linked or molecularly compacted polyethylene;
2. A layer of glue connecting the aluminum layer and polyethylene;
3. Aluminum layer;
4. A layer of glue connecting the aluminum layer and the outer layer of plastic;
5. Layer of plastic.

Metal-plastic pipes have certain advantages compared to similar products:

• Due to the polymer layer, metal-plastic pipes are highly resistant to corrosion.
• Thanks to the aluminum layer, the products are elastic and retain their shape, making it possible to install metal-plastic pipes of almost any complexity and configuration.
• Perfect accuracy when calculating linear dimensions is not required.

Features of the plumbing system layout

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes begins with the installation of ball valves on the riser. For installation, you must choose only high-quality ball valves, which are capable of operating at high operating pressure (within 60 atmospheres) and temperature within 150 degrees.

Chinese counterfeits must be avoided, since in the water supply system much depends on the quality of the taps.

It is the ball valve that can be used to shut off the water supply to the apartment in a situation where leaks occur.

Ball valves for metal-plastic pipelines

Diagram of a metal-plastic pipeline system

1. Deep filter and water meter;
2. Fine filter;
3. Pressure reducer;
4. A manifold from which pipes made of metal-plastic are routed and installed directly to the plumbing fixtures.

Metal-plastic pipes are mounted together with filters to protect plumbing fixtures and the pipes themselves from small particles of sand, metals, and scale, which are present in significant quantities in the risers.

Installation of a collector is required to ensure a uniform supply of water to the consuming elements - sink, toilet, washing machine, from the water riser. As a rule, collectors have 2, 3 or 4 outlets. In the case where the number of consuming devices is more than four, select collectors that have the required number of outputs.

Fittings for metal-plastic pipes

If you need to connect metal-plastic pipes, installation and direct connection is carried out using fittings for metal-plastic pipes, which come in the following types:

Connecting pipes using compression fittings

Compression fitting diagram

Making connections using compression fittings:

• In the case of using a compression fitting, the connection is obtained due to the pressure generated during the process of tightening the nut on the open crimp ring.
• To perform compression connection No special tools are required for installing metal-plastic pipes.

The connection is made using two wrenches: while the nut is tightened with one, resistance is exerted with the other wrench.

• If metal-plastic pipes are used when wiring, installation should be carried out to the consuming device from the collector in one whole “thread”, avoiding unnecessary connections.
• After some time, it may be necessary to tighten the connection to maintain the tightness of the compression fittings.

But if you lay pipes that have several fitting connections in the floor or cover them with tiles, then performing this operation or dismantling metal-plastic pipes if such a need arises will become very difficult.

To avoid periodic pulling of fittings, you have no choice but to install metal-plastic pipes using press fittings.

Connecting metal-plastic pipes using press fittings

Press fittings are durable and strong (their warranty is up to 50 years), can withstand pressures of up to 10 bar, and the installation of metal-plastic pipes made with their help is quick and easy.

Metal-plastic pipes connected with press fittings are installed using a special press machine. This tool for installing metal-plastic pipes can be simple manual or microprocessor hydraulic.

Instructions for installing metal-plastic pipes with connections using press fittings:

1. The pipe is cut with special scissors at a right angle.
2. Using a reamer and a special calibration tool, the chamfer is removed, and the pipe diameter is adjusted for subsequent installation.
3. A sleeve made of stainless steel is placed on the end of the pipe.
4. The fitting is inserted into the fitting pipe until it stops.
5. The press clamp - manual or hydraulic - grabs the sleeve.
6. Press the press handles all the way.

Rules for laying a metal-plastic pipeline

A metal-plastic pipeline is laid in accordance with the following rules:

• When installing a metal-plastic pipe, you must be extremely careful, since pipes are very sensitive to ultraviolet radiation, mechanical and thermal damage.

Open laying of such pipes is permissible only in places where there is no influence of these factors.

• The technology for installing metal-plastic pipes using hidden installation involves the installation of hatches and removable panels for access to compression-type fittings. Such hatches and shields should not have sharp protrusions.
• Installation of pipes through building structures is carried out using sleeves with an internal diameter 5-10 mm larger than the external diameter of the pipe.

The gap that is formed in this case is filled with a soft, fireproof material that can ensure the movement of the pipe in the longitudinal direction.

• In the process of installing metal-plastic pipes for water supply or heating, at each stage you need to remember that scratches or cuts on the surface of the pipes are unacceptable.

Example of a domestic plumbing system diagram

When unpacking a coil with a pipe, you should not use sharp objects. When marking the pipe, you must use only a pencil or marker.

• Installation of a metal-plastic pipe is carried out using supports or hangers, with the help of which they are attached to the wall.

Supports and hangers are offered by pipe manufacturers. Metal fastenings must be equipped with gaskets made of soft material.

A do-it-yourself metal-plastic pipeline will last longer if the given tips, instructions and recommendations are followed in full.

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes: how to install correctly, what tools are needed

192) Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes: tools for installing a water supply system, how to install correctly, assembly instructions, technology

Do-it-yourself installation of metal-plastic pipes: connection technology + wiring examples

Modern materials for arranging intra-house highways have made it possible self-assembly water supply and heating systems. For example, installing metal-plastic pipes with your own hands will allow you to arrange water supply or sewer lines. Working with such elements does not require complex tools or special skills.

Features of metal-plastic products

Metal-plastic (metal-polymer pipes) are composite products for the production of which various types of materials are used. Similar elements have an attractive appearance, good wear resistance, elasticity, strength.

Typically, a pipe consists of five layers. A durable polymer, usually cross-linked polyethylene, is used as a supporting base. It makes the inner surface smooth, protecting it from blockages, and also contributes to the strength of the product.

An adhesive is applied to the core, on which aluminum foil that stabilizes the pipe is attached (it also prevents the ingress of oxygen). The connection is secured by butt or overlap welding.

The fourth layer is also applied with glue, to which the outer covering – polyethylene – is connected. white, providing protection to the product and giving it an aesthetic appearance.

Technical characteristics of pipes D 16-20 mm

Here are the data typical for metal-plastic pipes of common diameters (16 and 20 mm):

• The wall thickness is 2 and 2.25 millimeters, respectively; The thickness of the aluminum layer is 0.2 and 0.24 mm.
• One running meter weighs 115 and 170 grams and holds a volume of liquid equal to 1.113 and 0.201 liters.
• The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.43 W/m K, the expansion rate of metal-plastic is 0.26x10 4 per 1 degree Celsius, the roughness coefficient is 0.07.
• When the material breaks transversely, the strength coefficient is 2880 N.
• The strength of the connection between the adhesive layer and the foil is 70 N/10 sq. mm, the strength coefficient of the aluminum welded layer is 57 N/sq. mm.
• Metal-plastic pipes can operate even at +95 o C, briefly withstanding temperatures of +110-130 o C.
• Within the temperature range from 0 to +25 o C, the system operates at a pressure of up to 25 bar, and at +95 o C it can withstand a pressure of 10 bar.
• The tightness and integrity of the metal-plastic pipe is broken under a load of 94 bar (at +20 o C).

At correct installation and compliance with operating rules, products made of metal-polymers can last 50 years or more.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal polymers

The advantages of such products include:

• ease of installation: connections of various categories of metal-plastic pipes are carried out quickly and easily;
• high heat resistance (water heated to 100°C can be transported);
• reasonable price (metal-polymer pipes are cheaper than metal and most plastic analogues);
• high strength and ring stiffness;
• resistance to corrosion and aggressive environments;
• reluctance to form deposits and blockages;
• aesthetic appearance;
• high throughput;
• low thermal conductivity;
• sufficient plasticity;
• possibility of easy repair;
• durability.

The main disadvantage of such products lies in the fact that the metal and plastic from which the pipes are made have different expansion rates. Regular temperature changes of the agent in the pipes can lead to weakening of the fastenings, which causes leaks in the structure.

To avoid this, experts advise, when performing installation, to always provide a certain margin at pipe joints. It will also be useful because metal-plastic systems do not withstand water hammer well.

Areas of application of metal-plastic elements

Pipes made of metal polymers are widely used in the construction of individual houses, in industrial construction and agriculture.

The main areas of their use are:

• transportation of liquids, gaseous agents;
• laying drainage systems, water pipes, heating;
• in structures involving the transfer of compressed air;
• supplying heating components to radiators, installing heated floors;
• installation of air conditioning circuits;
• protection and shielding of wires (primarily power);
• construction of irrigation systems.

• when organizing central heating systems with the proposed construction of elevator units;
• in places with an assigned fire safety level “G”;
• with the expected supply of hot liquid in the pipeline with a working pressure >10 bar;
• in rooms where it is planned to place sources of thermal radiation with a surface temperature of over 150 degrees C.

In addition, it is undesirable to use metal-polymer pipes in safety, signal, overflow, expansion schemes and in fire-fighting water pipes.

Three main methods of pipe routing

The wiring of metal-plastic systems can be carried out using different methods, each of which is selected based on the feasibility and possibilities of further access to the system.

Option #1: hidden

In this case, all pipes and connections are hidden deep in the wall under finishing materials. Only fittings and elbows for connection are exposed to the outside plumbing fixtures.

When using this installation method, the interior design is preserved, in addition, masking communications protects them from accidental damage.

This option has several disadvantages:

• Laying channels for pipes requires a complex and labor-intensive gating process. After laying communications, the surface must be restored again.
• This method is not suitable for load-bearing walls, where gating is prohibited by regulatory documents.
• Quite a high cost associated with additional work.

This method is best used when renovating a bathroom. It is not advisable to install a hidden installation in an already decorated room, since this will require complete dismantling of the wall covering (cladding, plaster).

Option #2: open

If for some reason the pipes cannot be hidden in the wall, they can be laid along its surface. This option is more convenient for visual inspection of joints, which allows, if necessary, to quickly clean the area or replace a component.

Open wiring can be used in rooms that have already been renovated, since the installation will not harm the design of the walls. The advantages of this method include its ease and lower cost of work than when laying internal communications.

Option #3: combined

In this case, the pipes are laid along the surface of the unfinished walls, after which they are covered with boxes or false panels. That's enough the hard way, since it requires the perfect fit of decorative elements into the interior, which can also be used as drywall, tiles and other materials.

Wiring diagrams for bathrooms and bathrooms

At plumbing work, carried out in bathrooms and toilets, three layouts of metal-plastic pipes can be used. For private houses, the most rational option is to use a collector.

Efficient collector system

Reliable and practical option, which involves connecting each object to the central pipe through a supply pair. This allows the faucet to regulate or turn off the water supply to each specific plumbing fixture.

All control devices are located in a compact manifold, which is placed in a space specially designated for them (cabinet).

Supply pipes with a minimum of connections do not require special control, which allows for hidden installation. The disadvantage of this option is the rather high cost, since for each connection you will need to purchase a special shut-off valve. Since such a system is quite complex, work must be done carefully and carefully.

An important advantage: if a separate item (washing machine, faucet) fails, there is no need to completely disconnect the bathroom from the water supply - just turn off the necessary shut-off valve.

Serial connection system

This option involves connecting each plumbing item to the main pipe using a separate tee. It is more suitable for bathrooms with a minimum number of objects (washing machine, common faucet).

The sequential scheme can be implemented after finishing the finishing work in the room, using open system styling The assembly process is quite simple: the pipe is laid from one object to another, and at the same time the supply element is removed from the tee.

This option requires minimal financial costs. It should be taken into account that when large quantities There may not be enough pressure at the fluid intake points, and the system will function with difficulty or even fail completely.

Wiring system with pass-through sockets

The connection of plumbing fixtures is similar to the serial one, but instead of tees, sockets are used. This scheme is usually used only in individual houses, since it requires laying long pipes, as well as installing an additional pump that will help provide the required water pressure.

When performing connecting work with metal-plastic pipes, several important nuances should be taken into account:

• When developing a design, it is desirable to provide a minimum of connections.
• It is important to use pipe and couplings made from the same material.
• It is better to use thermal insulation for the pipeline to prevent condensation from settling.
• It is necessary to provide free access to metering devices, filters, and detachable connections.

Compliance with the rules will create reliable system, capable of serving for many years.

Layout of sewer pipes

The work of installing sewer metal-plastic pipes has its own characteristics.

In this case, to ensure smooth drainage of wastewater and prevent blockages, it is important to comply with the following requirements:

• Maintain a slope (0.02-0.03 of the entire length of the structure) towards the drain manifold.
• It is prohibited to install bends at an angle of 90 degrees when installing structures.
• The need to install special tees with removable covers (revisions) in areas before turns that are prone to blockages.
• When installing the system in a hidden way, it is important to leave viewing windows opposite the revision.
• When assembling a system, it is important to leave a reserve intended for thermal expansion of the product.

For sewerage installation, it is necessary to use pipes whose diameter ensures easy passage waste water. For toilets, it is recommended to use products with a diameter of at least 100 mm; for bathtubs and sinks, 50-75 mm is sufficient.

Rules for installation of metal-polymer structures

When laying metal-plastic systems, it is important to be guided by the following provisions:

• When laying hidden pipelines from this material, it is important to provide removable shields (hatches) that are free of sharp protrusions. They provide access to compression fittings.
• It is important to lay systems through building structures using sleeves whose internal diameter is 0.5-1 cm larger than that of the pipe. The gap that forms between the elements must be filled with soft, non-flammable material that allows the pipe to move in the longitudinal direction.
• When laying metal-plastic water pipes or heating systems It is important to avoid damage to the surface of the elements, including scratches or cuts. To unpack the bay, it is better to avoid sharp objects and mark the structure with a pencil or marker.
• Installation of the structure can be carried out using a support or suspension, which are usually present in the range of manufacturers of metal-polymer pipes. They help to attach products to the wall, while metal parts are installed with spacers made of soft material.

All stages of operations must be carried out carefully and carefully, since metal-plastic elements are sensitive to ultraviolet radiation and mechanical damage. External installation It is appropriate to carry out such constructions only in places where there are no such factors.

Tools and materials for laying pipes

Laying metal-polymer systems requires a minimum of devices and materials, but it is better to choose quality devices and pipes.

Pipeline installation accessories

To create a structure made of metal-plastic, a very modest set of tools is enough: a pipe cutter, a simple pipe bender, an extension wrench and a spanner.

A pipe cutter is needed to separate measured sections of pipe from the coil. Since metal-plastic is a fairly pliable material, it can be cut with a hacksaw or even sharp knife. However, ideal perpendicularity of the lines, without which it is difficult to obtain a tight connection, can only be achieved by using a special cutter.

Different types of keys are important for installation and assembly threaded connections on pipeline fittings. If absolutely necessary, you can get by with one spanner wrench, however, for comfortable work it is better to use two socket wrenches and one adjustable wrench.

A gauge is an important tool for creating an accurate and tight connection between a pipe and a fitting: it allows you to center the cut plane and chamfer the inside of the product.

The pipe bender allows you to change the configuration of the element, so you can save on corner fittings. It is especially important to have this tool if the design involves large number corner mates.

What materials will be needed

To lay the pipeline, it is important to stock up on the following components:

• pipes (coils, measured sections);
• various fitting options (bends, tees, corners), with the help of which individual sections of pipes are transformed into a single system;
• fastening elements - dismountable clamps and clips, with the help of which metal-plastic structures are fixed to supporting surfaces, most often on the wall.

It is important to select all the necessary materials and tools in advance so that you can carry out all the work smoothly.

Pipe line marking

Before starting work, it is important to think about how the pipes will be placed. When developing a circuit, it is advisable to:

• Draw pipeline lines directly on the walls of the room where it is planned to be laid, which helps visualize the structure.
• As a starting point, use the connection point of the pipe to the tap or radiator, which must already be installed before installation begins.
• Minimize the number of tees and crosses that affect pressure stability, and also minimize the number of other fittings.
• For corner laying of metal-plastic pipes, you can use a pipe bender or corner fittings.
• All connecting elements should be provided with free access, since threaded fasteners need periodic tightening to avoid leaks.

The installation of connecting elements must be carried out after completion of calculations and marking of the structure.

Overview of fittings for metal-plastic systems

To prepare for work, it is important to cut the pipes into sections of the required length, and all cuts must be made strictly at right angles. If the pipe becomes deformed during the cutting process, it must be leveled with a gauge (it will also help remove the internal chamfer).

Various types of fasteners are used to install the structure; we will dwell on them separately.

Option #1: collet

Push-in fittings, consisting of a body, a ferrule, and a rubber gasket, have a detachable design, so they can be used several times. The thread of the parts allows them to be combined with household appliances.

To connect the connecting elements to the pipe, you need to put a nut and a ring in series. Insert the resulting structure into the fitting and tighten the nut. To make it easier for the pipe to pass into the connecting element, it is advisable to wet it.

Option #2: compression

Widely used for connecting pipes are parts that can be called conditionally detachable. Before installation, it is important to ensure that you have o-rings and dielectric gaskets, which should be on the shank of the part.

To connect, a nut and a ferrule are put on the end of the pipe (if it has the shape of a cone, then the process is carried out on the narrower side of the part). After this, the shank is inserted into the pipe (this requires some effort), and in order to seal, the part is covered with tow, flax, and sealant.

The next step is to put the union nut on the fitting body and tighten it. It is convenient to do this with the help of two keys: one of them fixes the part, the other tightens the nut.

This method is quite easy and does not require the use of special equipment, however, it is not advisable to use it for hidden wiring, since it requires checking the connection.

Option #3: push fittings

Convenient connecting elements that do not require special tools for fastening. For installation, it is enough to insert the product into the connecting part, and the end of the pipe should be visible in the inspection window.

Immediately upon completion of installation, thanks to the included water jet, the fitting wedge is pushed forward, forming a clamp that prevents leakage.

This method allows you to quickly and easily create the required structure, ensuring high-quality, durable connections. Almost the only drawback of push fittings is their high cost.

Option #4: press fittings

These elements are used to create permanent connections using press jaws or similar devices.

To connect, you need to calibrate the part by removing the fez from it, after which the sleeve is put on it and the fitting is inserted. The sleeve is grabbed by press jaws, after which the part is firmly clamped by bringing the handle together.

This element can only be used once, but the fasteners mounted with it are quite tight and reliable, making them suitable for hidden wiring.

Installation of pipes from different types of materials

To connect elements, one of which is made of metal and the other of metal-plastic, special fittings are designed, one end of which is equipped with a thread, and the other with a socket.

For installation metal pipe you need to cut it with a thread, wrap it with tow, lubricate it with soap or silicone, and then put on the fitting by hand. After its second end is connected to the plastic element, the thread is completely tightened using a wrench.

Assortment of fittings of different shapes

For ease of installation, the connecting elements can have different shapes. The most common are:

• adapters for connecting pipes with different diameters;
• tees providing branches from the central pipe;
• corners for changing the direction of flow;
• water sockets (installation elbows);
• crosspieces that allow you to organize different flow directions for 4 pipes.

Press fittings can have a special configuration (couplings, triangles, tees).

Do-it-yourself technology for installing metal-plastic pipes

How to properly install metal-plastic pipes with your own hands. What fittings are used when installing the pipeline. Wiring diagrams and assembly technology

Installation of metal-plastic pipes is not difficult even for non-professionals. You don’t have to be a plumber to lay water supply pipes with your own hands: just carefully read the laying rules.

Choosing an installation option for a metal-plastic system

If you are determined to install and install metal-plastic pipes yourself, decide in advance on the option for laying the pipeline. It happens:

• hidden (the system is “hidden” in the wall);
• open (it runs along its surface);
• combined (combining both options).

The required method is selected taking into account:

• purpose of the premises;
• the need to have access to the structure.

Metal-plastic pipes are fastened to walls using special clips. For plumbing, single ones are usually used, for heating - double ones (for two-pipe systems). We select them taking into account the diameter of the product and fasten them to the wall with dowels or self-tapping screws.

To prevent the pipeline from sagging, the distance between the fasteners is 1 m or less. For heating installation, a step of no more than 0.5 m is recommended (so that the circulation of the coolant is not disrupted). The bends are fixed on both sides.

Hidden

This is an aesthetic, but labor-intensive option, usually used in bathrooms, as well as in rooms where the possibility of damage to the surface of the structure is expected. To hide it inside the walls, channels are dug, a system is laid and the recesses are sealed with finishing materials, leaving access to the fittings (using “windows” or removable panels).

It is not advisable to use a hidden gasket:

• for load-bearing walls (it is forbidden to ditch them);
• in an already finished room (you will have to dismantle and then restore the wall covering).

The main advantage is that the type of pipeline does not spoil the design of the room.

Open

Open wiring should not be done if:

• there is a possibility of mechanical damage to the surface of the structure;
• they have access to ultraviolet rays (this is harmful to them).

Advantages of the method:

• the joints are visible - easy to unscrew if necessary to clean or replace a fragment;
• no damage to the finish is caused (can be installed in rooms where repairs have already been made).

Fastening with clips to the wall should be done as smoothly as possible, remembering that the pipeline is visible: slanting lines are not pleasing to the eye.

Combined

The pipeline is laid along the surface of unformed walls and covered with special false panels or boxes are mounted. The method requires an accurate idea of ​​the future design of the room: boxes and panels should not detract from the appearance of the room, but should fit organically into the design.

Design and marking for material calculation

Work with any metal-plastic pipes (for plumbing or heating) should begin with developing a diagram of their placement:

1. Draw the lines of future installation directly on the walls - visualization makes it easier to understand where everything will be located.
2. “Start point” - the place of connection to the already installed tap or radiator.
3. Try to get by with as few fittings as possible (the fewer there are, the more stable the water pressure).
4. If a corner gasket is required, decide whether to bend or use corner fittings.
5. Even at the markup stage, remember: all connections must be accessible. It is also necessary to be able to tighten the fasteners if necessary.
6. All connecting elements are installed after the markings and calculations are completed.
7. By wiring diagram(draw clearly!) The length of the pipeline, the number of fittings and fasteners are calculated.

Selection of pipe for installation

The least requirements apply to products intended for cold water supply. As for hot items, you should take goods labeled PEX (cross-linked) and PE-RT (linear) polyethylene. Before purchasing, check what the normal and maximum pressure indicators are for your water supply.

Look at the certificate to see if the product meets hygienic requirements, evaluate the appearance for dents, scratches, and other defects.

Plumbing system

For home plumbing The most commonly used pipes are 16 and 20 mm in diameter. If the main wiring is assembled from 20 mm, then the connections to faucets, household appliances, and bathtubs are made from 16 mm.

Heating system

When choosing products to create a heating structure, consider the availability of quality certificates. Products must be designed for a working pressure of 6.6 atm and a temperature of 95 °C and not made of low-density polyethylene: it is neither durable nor heat-resistant. Do not purchase products marked PE-RS, they will melt if the coolant temperature exceeds 75 °C!

Selecting a fitting for joining pipes

When you install a water supply system from metal-plastic pipes yourself, you need to pay serious attention to the choice of fittings: responsibility for leaks falls on you! Fittings are considered " weak point", don't skimp on cheap options.

Compression fittings are simple, but less reliable than press fittings. Please note that hidden gaskets require the use of press fittings only. In other cases, be sure to ensure free access to compression devices.

Preparing tools and supplies

To install the structure, you will need a small set of tools (all of them should be at hand):

• pipe cutter or sharp scissors (for a tight connection, a strictly perpendicular cut is necessary);
• calibrator (needed for centering the cutting area and chamfering);
• sliding and open-end wrenches(they are used to tighten the nuts in compression fittings)
• press pliers (they manually crimp press fittings);
• pipe bender (allows you to change the configuration of pipeline segments without using corner fittings - it is better to use it if there are many corner connections).

Required materials:

• the bay itself, measured pieces of the required length will be cut from it;
• different types of fittings (tees, bypass, corner) for wiring and creating a single design;
• fastening elements (clamps and clips from the manufacturer) for fixing pipeline sections on supporting surfaces.

Laying metal-plastic pipes

How to correctly install a metal-plastic pipe:

• cut a fragment of the required length;
• use a calibrator to adjust the shape of the cut;
• chamfer from both surfaces - outside and inside - simultaneously;
• Unscrew the fitting (remove the nuts from the ends, O-rings from the fittings);
• if the fitting is compression, put a nut with a sealing ring on the prepared fragment, connect the pipe and fitting, secure the connection with the nut - first tighten it by hand, then use a wrench;
• if a press fitting is used, first disassemble it and make sure it is not defective (remember that you can’t “unscrew it back”), then place the prepared fragment on the fitting, assess the seating depth - for this there is a hole on the sleeve. Then use press pliers to press the connecting sleeve twice, forming two annular compressions.

To form the desired bend, you can use a pipe bender or bend it with your own hands, heating it with a construction hairdryer: in several steps, without making sudden movements and remembering the permissible bending radius (indicated in the technical specifications). The thumbs of both hands are positioned along the product during this action. The inner and outer layers of the product must not be deformed!

To simplify the workflow, you can first assemble the individual parts of the system. Then install the parts of the structure in the appropriate places and connect them. Each pipe is fixed to the wall using hanging and supporting elements from the manufacturer. Installation metal parts made with special gaskets soft materials. After sequentially combining all parts, connect them to the “hot” and “cold” risers.

Pressure testing of the water supply system

When the installation of a water supply system made of metal-plastic pipes is completed, it is necessary to check it for leaks using the pressure testing process:

1. It is necessary to shut off the test area filled with water to seal it (using taps/valves).
2. Connect a pump to the connection pipe of one of the taps (for home system water supply is suitable manual, low-power).
3. Using a pressure testing pump, pump water into the selected area at a pressure greater than the calculated operating pressure, then turn off the pump and record the pressure gauge readings.
4. Maintain the system under pressure for some time - at least half an hour.
5. Then the current pressure gauge readings are compared with the original value. If the two values ​​are different, something has gone wrong, there is a leak.

If you have an open gasket, the problem area can be detected visually. After eliminating the malfunction, you will have to re-test it.