In the construction of a small house made of aerated concrete blocks with a simple sloping roof, there is no particular need to cast reinforcing tape; it is much cheaper and faster to fasten the Mauerlat to aerated concrete without an armor belt. The technology reduces time costs, construction goes faster, but does not make the work easier, since this method of attaching Mauerlat beams directly to the walls requires care and precision.

Features of fastening the Mauerlat to aerated concrete without an armored belt

Simply put, without knowing technological techniques correct installation, it’s better not to take risks and take advantage in the classic way, with laying reinforcement and concreting the tape. On the other hand, the problem is only in following the technology, there are no secrets in this, and with due patience and accuracy, secure wooden beam without an armored belt it will not be difficult.

First of all, you need to know the conditions under which you can attach the Mauerlat to aerated concrete without an armored belt:

• In the design of the roof frame, the rafters should not create an additional thrust load on the upper edge of the walls;
• The building and the roof are primarily oriented to the terrain so that wind flows create minimal pressure on the roof slopes;
• The roof slope is chosen to be large enough to winter time the heavy snow cover squeezed the rafters and mauerlat beyond the upper edge of the walls.

Advice! The way to secure the Mauerlat without an armored belt must be chosen before the walls are laid out. You need to make a decision before the last three rows of blocks are laid out. It is at the level of the third rows from the top that the penultimate layer of wall reinforcement is laid, which is convenient to use to secure the beam directly to the wall made of aerated concrete.

The situation with the rafters will become clearer if you look at the diagram below.

Hanging rafter beams, after installation and alignment on the ridge and mauerlat, must be connected and tightened with horizontal timber ties.

If the layered beam is placed on a ridge girder using a hinge, then the heel of the rafter, with which it rests on the surface of the mauerlat, must be secured to a sliding connection. Otherwise, the weight of the roof will tear the wooden beam from the surface.

Strong arguments against the armored belt

Most craftsmen involved in the construction of buildings made of aerated concrete are confident that installing an armored belt can solve all the problems with installing the mauerlat and roof. In fact, this is not entirely true, for one simple reason - the future house is being built from extremely weak aerated concrete. Therefore, it is impossible to transfer the methods and technologies of the armored belt, which successfully work on brick, block and concrete buildings, on aerated concrete walls.

There are only two fundamental objections to the armored belt:

• First of all, with any manufacturing scheme, the reinforced belt can be secured only to the top row of aerated concrete, so the roof has to be made with the same restrictions, as in the case when this belt is not present. Concrete frame redistributes the thrust load well, but all the forces from the reinforced belt fall only on the top row of aerated concrete, hence the appearance of cracks along the upper edge of the walls;
• Attaching the Mauerlat to an armored belt means creating huge problems with a cold bridge in that part of the roof where aerated concrete is least ventilated. Even laying a layer of EPS insulation helps little; you have to look for ways to install vents to remove condensation from the reinforced belt.

The third argument against concreting is related to costs. The installation of reinforcing tape will cost an amount approximately equal to a third of the estimate for the construction of the foundation. For a house 4x8 m this is approximately 60-100 thousand rubles. It is clear that it is much easier to fasten the Mauerlat and roof frame to a Mauerlat rigidly connected to a concrete reinforced belt. Sometimes master roofers even refuse to install a roof on aerated concrete without an armored belt, but technologically this is quite possible.

How to attach a Mauerlat to aerated concrete without an armored belt

There are several reliable and proven methods for securely fastening mauerlat beams to aerated concrete walls. Recommended options include:

• Use of studs with embedded elements;
• Laying timber using annealed steel wire;
• Schemes that allow you to secure timber using chemicals;
• Use of dowels.

For your information! In addition to the options listed, you can secure the Mauerlat using anchor bolts.

Fastening the Mauerlat to aerated concrete without an armored belt using anchors

This the only way, the use of which should be immediately and without a doubt abandoned; it is better not to take risks without an armored belt.

The anchor fastening works great on an armored belt made of concrete, brick, or cinder block, but due to the small contact surface area of ​​the support sleeve, the fastener can be torn out of the aerated concrete body by the first strong wind.

In order to secure the Mauerlat with anchors, it will take three times more points fastenings, each of which will have to be glued with expensive adhesive composition. The cost of such fasteners will be no less than the cost of a traditional armored belt, and there are practically no advantages over concrete.

Fastening with studs

The easiest way to build a building made of aerated concrete without a reinforcing belt is to secure a wooden beam using an embedded element and a stud with a thread of at least M16. The method is very similar to the option with an anchor, but differs in the depth and diameter of the threaded rod, which will need to be fixed in the aerated concrete block.

There is one caveat to this method of fastening. Before laying the last three rows of box blocks, it is necessary to mark the planned installation lines for the future threaded fasteners of the Mauerlat. Usually they simply draw vertical lines on the walls. Next, embedded elements are placed under the laid steel reinforcement, most often these are steel plates, 5 mm thick, with a welded M16 nut. The remaining rows of aerated concrete are laid out on the walls in the usual manner.

In order to secure the studs in the wall, you will need:

• Drill vertical hole with a diameter of 20-25 mm to the level of the plate embedded in aerated concrete, usually it is necessary to drill with a drill to a depth of a meter;
• Screw the threaded rod into the nut with the plate;
• To properly fasten the pin, it will need to be leveled and wedged in the hole;
• Once all the rods have been aligned and secured, free space filled with concrete or adhesive mixture.

After a day, you can put the Mauerlat directly on the aerated concrete. This is the only way to mount the Mauerlat on a wall with minimal costs and maximum degree of reliability. Another option for installing a Mauerlat on aerated concrete without an armored belt is shown in the video

Mounting the Mauerlat on dowels

It is clear that it is not always possible to prudently lay plates in walls made of aerated concrete, and it is simply not possible to punch horizontal holes for laying fasteners. If the aerated concrete box has small sizes, then you can fasten the Mauerlat without an armored belt using carpentry, using dowels.

The technology is practically no different from the previous method. Initially, centering holes are drilled in the mauerlat laid on aerated concrete, and the timber is secured to the surface of the walls with ordinary self-tapping screws. This allows you to correctly align and splice the Mauerlat until final fastening.

Waterproofing is successively applied under the timber, roofing felt is laid, after which 25-30 mm holes can be drilled for oak dowels to a depth of 70-80 cm. All that remains is to pour in the glue and secure the rods. The tops of the rods are cut off, a carpentry screw is turned inside, allowing the dowel to be wedged out and thereby firmly securing the Mauerlat. At first glance, this method gives the impression of being the most unreliable, but the practice of installing a Mauerlat suggests the opposite. Especially if you remember that most timber houses assembled using dowels.

Fastening with chemical anchors

Relatively new way allows you to fix a beam or board almost anywhere on an aerated concrete wall. To hold the Mauerlat, threaded anchors are used, but they are not wrapped in the body of aerated concrete, but in a special cavity filled with quick-hardening resin.

First, markings are carried out on the walls of the points where it is planned to fix the timber. Next, the Mauerlat boards are dismantled, and holes are drilled in the aerated concrete for installing chemical plugs. In order for the anchor bolt to hold firmly in the thickness of the aerated concrete, it is necessary that the diameter of the plug cavity be at least 35 mm.

The cavity for filling the self-hardening resin is cut out using special device. An oblique cutter is a drill bent at an angle of 15° cutting edge. The nozzle is installed on a drill and sequentially, in several passes, a cavity is drilled in the aerated concrete for a conical plug.

Before fixing the anchor, the hole is purged with air. Can be used hand pump for inflating tires or any similar device. Next, you need to attach a plastic nozzle to the hole, through which the resin mixed with the hardener is pressed with a syringe.

After 10 minutes, it is necessary to tighten the anchor bolt, align it vertically and temporarily secure it until the plastic is completely cured. Before installation, the anchor must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and degreased with a solvent. After another hour, the Mauerlat can be fixed to aerated concrete. The advantage of chemical anchors is simple technology and high reliability of fastening, without the use of an armored belt. The downside is the high cost of the self-hardening resin and the inability to fix the Mauerlat at temperatures below 15 o C.

Fastening the Mauerlat to aerated concrete with wire

In order to attach the Mauerlat to aerated concrete walls, you do not need any expensive materials or special tools. It is enough to have an electric drill with long drill with a nozzle, scissors for cutting wire and construction rod with a diameter of 5 mm. Sometimes 2 mm thick wire is additionally used to tie the reinforcement.

Advice! If aerated concrete walls were laid by other craftsmen, and the location of the reinforcement is unknown, then it will also be useful to use handheld device to find hidden wiring.

Advantage this method is the exceptional simplicity of the process. In order to secure the Mauerlat timber to the wall, it is enough to tie a wire loop and pull the wood to the supporting surface, as in the video

Before you begin installation, you will need to solve two problems. Firstly, you will need to immediately install a thick and very heavy beam on the walls and splice the individual parts of the Mauerlat into one run.

Secondly, you will need to select the line and locations for drilling through holes. The best option is to drill holes below the level of laying the last reinforcing layer. Sections of walls above window and door openings are definitely not suitable.

Before fixing the Mauerlat, the wire is cut and annealed to make it softer and more flexible. The material is passed through the hole and wrapped onto corner edge Mauerlat using a mount, the remaining mustache is cut off with scissors.

Some craftsmen, before securing the beam, put a spiral spring wound from pieces of wire rod 2 mm thick onto the wire. An improvised tube is inserted into drilled hole in aerated concrete to avoid cutting the wall material when the fasteners are under strong tension. The method does not guarantee the absolute safety of aerated concrete if the rafters are not balanced correctly, but it does not allow the wire pigtail to cut the wall like a hacksaw during gusts of wind.

Since there is no durable concrete armored belt under the Mauerlat, then special attention Care must be taken to ensure that nuts on studs or anchors are tightened correctly and evenly. Usually the fasteners are tightened with a wrench, following the diagonal rule. That is, each subsequent point for the nut should be located on opposite side walls from the previous nut.

Conclusion

The choice of how exactly to fasten the Mauerlat to aerated concrete without an armored belt must be made taking into account the thickness of the walls, the size of the building and the roof structure. For the bath the best option There will be wire fasteners; for a small cottage in the country, you can use chimankera or hairpins. It is better to build two-story buildings with a reinforcing reinforced belt made of rolled steel.

For correct installation and installation of the roof truss system, competent distribution of strong loads on the building, builders resort to using important element- Mauerlat. Mauerlat is a wooden or metal mount, which is fixed at the top of the walls. In this case, it should be securely fastened.

If builders use metal rafters, then there is a need for an I-beam Mauerlat. It is attached to a wall made of aerated concrete without an armored belt and performs two functions:

• distributes loads that are transferred to the walls of the building;
• The roof rafter elements are attached to the metal Mauerlat.

Selection of building materials

In the manufacture of wooden mauerlat, beams are used. At the same time, experts advise making fastenings from deciduous trees treated with special antiseptics. The beams should be laid around the perimeter of the wall. To connect them together, specialists install a lock, which must be secured with nails. This will help make a strong, solid wood structure. It is important that its size be smaller than the width of the aerated concrete walls. The beam must be secured to inner surface so that there is a gap of five centimeters between the outer cut and the fastening. Sometimes builders use brick for a protective belt on outside walls. Before starting installation work, waterproofing should be provided between the walls and beams.

Types of fastening

There are ways by which you can securely fasten the Mauerlat to aerated concrete. It is necessary that the fastening be installed as securely as possible - this will help to avoid the roof moving. In the construction industry, it is customary to fix an element using the following means:

Waterproofing during installation

Waterproofing is needed between the Mauerlat and the wall of the building. For this purpose, you can use polyethylene, building materials in rolls, or modern waterproofing products. Such work is extremely important during the construction of a building, otherwise liquid may condense in the area of ​​contact of materials, which can destroy the Mauerlat. Protection against moisture penetration is the final stage of installation.

Nuances of installation work

The base is made from timber measuring from 10x10 to 15x15 cm.

Experts believe that it is preferable to install a solid wooden structure around the perimeter of the wall surface. In this case, you need to fasten the wooden blocks into a single Mauerlat using a lock. Its dimensions will depend on the characteristics of the bar. After you decide on the type of fastening of the structure to aerated concrete, calculate the location and number of elements, you can begin installation. First of all, workers need to prepare workplace, ensuring insulation of the space between the Mauerlat and the concrete masonry. It is important to remember that the area of ​​contact between the wooden beams and the concrete surface is where the wood rots. Waterproofing building materials laid under the Mauerlat structure will help to avoid the destructive effects of moisture. For good waterproofing, two dense layers of material are used. You can use roofing felt or more expensive means.

In addition, it should be taken into account that when using studs or anchors, you need to make holes in the surface of the aerated concrete in advance. But this problem is more difficult to solve than it might seem at first glance. The difficulty is that using building level It is impossible to install the fasteners exactly in a vertical position, especially in a liquid concrete mixture. Therefore, the first step is to determine where the bolts will be located and how much they will deviate from the concrete. For this purpose, experts use a flat wooden board. The exact location of the bolts is marked on it. To do this, apply the board to the outer bolts and mark where the others should be. After this, the builders transfer the points directly to the block and drill holes according to the marked points. Then place the holes on the fixed bolts and tighten wooden block using nuts. With metal wire the work is much easier. To do this, 2 holes are drilled in the block, the distance between which should be about thirty centimeters.

Workers thread metal wire into the prepared holes, twisting the ends.

When settling in pitched roof installation of the rafter system cannot be done directly on the walls of the building. Additional element, which absorbs the loads from the rafters and transfers them to the walls, will be the Mauerlat. Usually this is a special beam that is laid around the perimeter of the walls. Since it takes a serious load from the roof, it is very important to securely fix the Mauerlat to the wall. In the case of brick or concrete walls everything is simple and clear. But how is the Mauerlat attached to aerated concrete without an armored belt, since the aerated block itself is quite loose and porous, and therefore cannot provide a strong fixation of the fastener? This is exactly what we will talk about in our article.

Functional purpose of the Mauerlat

Typically, the same material is used to make the Mauerlat as for the rafter system. Most often it is made from wooden beams. However, if the rafter system is made of metal, then this structural part can be made of a channel or I-beam.

Typically this element is made from the following materials:

• Wooden beam with a section of 100x100 mm, 150x150 mm or 200x300 mm. The beam is made of wood hardwood and passes mandatory antiseptic treatment. The product is laid around the perimeter of the walls of the structure. The joints are fixed with nails or a straight lock. Most often used in private construction wooden structure roofs.
• Less commonly, rolled profiles are used for these purposes - a channel with a U-shaped section or an I-beam with an H-shaped section. The profile height is determined by calculation and can be in the range of 70-120 mm.

A beam or steel beam is attached to the walls. In this case they can be used different ways fastenings Next, the rafter legs rest on the mauerlat. They exert a load on this element, which in turn, evenly distributing it, transfers it to the walls of the building. In addition, this beam holds rafter system from displacement.

Important: since aerated concrete does not tolerate long-term point loads and gradually collapses, it is recommended to erect a monolithic reinforced belt along the top of the walls before laying the Mauerlat.

However, there are ways to style this structural element on walls made of aerated concrete without an armored belt. It is also worth remembering that the upper edge of the Mauerlat should be located at a height of at least 30-50 cm from the surface of the ceiling. This will ensure effective ventilation of the under-roof space, and will also facilitate inspection and repair of roof structures.

Mounting methods

Attaching the Mauerlat to aerated concrete is much more difficult than to a brick wall

Attaching the Mauerlat to aerated concrete is much more difficult than to a brick wall. As a rule, this product is laid at a distance of 50 mm from the outer edge of the wall. The following fasteners can be used to secure the Mauerlat:

• steel wire;
• anchor fasteners built into the masonry;
• special chemical anchors;
• steel studs.

Important: to attach the support beam to a reinforced belt or brick walls anchors are used.

After installing the beam, the rafter leg is pulled to the wall using a twist made from twisted metal wire with a diameter of 3 mm. To fix the wire 6 cm below the beam, a steel short is mounted. Instead, the wire can be fixed to the floor slabs. During installation complex roof It is recommended to make sure to use a reinforced concrete belt, which will give the building additional rigidity and more evenly distribute the load from the roof onto the walls of the house.

For tying individual parts Mauerlat into a single structure uses an oblique cut, followed by fastening with nails, screws or bolts. To strengthen the corner parts of the structure, steel plates and brackets are used.

Using wire to secure beams

If wire is used to fasten the Mauerlat, then this must be taken care of at the stage of laying the walls. The wire must be laid in the wall tub when completing the last few rows. In this case, the following sequence of actions is followed:

1. When laying aerated concrete blocks, two or three rows before the end of the walls, a steel wire with a cross-section of 6 mm is laid between the elements, which consists of several thinner wires twisted together.
2. In this case, the middle part of the fastener is inserted into the masonry. Its ends should protrude from the walls. The length of these ends should be such that the wire can be freely wrapped around the timber being laid.
3. The number of wires used must be equal to the number of rafters being installed.

Fixation with pins

Fastening the Mauerlat to a wall made of aerated concrete with studs is allowed when installing light roofs on small houses. Materials used for formation roofing pie, must be as light as possible and not transfer significant loads to the remaining structural parts of the building.

This technique is ideally suited in cases where it is not possible to arrange an armored belt. In such a situation, the timber itself will serve as a reinforcing belt. This method causes rather controversial reviews from experts, but in practice it has proven itself very well, ensuring high reliability and stability of the roof.

To fix the timber to aerated concrete you will need the following elements:

• studs marked SRT-12, called “dovetail”;
• wooden beam with a cross section of 20x30 cm (the dimensions of this element depend on the thickness of the external walls).

We carry out the work in this order:

1. We drill holes in the aerated block walls in increments of 100-150 cm.
2. We insert pins into the holes and fix them with cement laitance or non-shrink mortar.
3. Next you need to perform waterproofing. To do this, two layers of roofing material are laid on the walls. At the location of the studs, holes must be pierced in the material to ensure a tight fit to the walls. Waterproofing will protect the wooden beam from saturation with moisture and subsequent rot, which can come from the walls.
4. With the same step as the studs were installed, holes of a diameter suitable for the studs are drilled in the Mauerlat.
5. Then the timber is placed on the studs over the waterproofing, washers are installed and tightened with nuts.
6. After installing the beam, the ends at which the individual fragments of the beam are joined are tightened with forged steel brackets.
7. Now you can begin installing the rafter system.

If the studs will be mounted in an armored belt, then we carry out the work as follows:

1. Before pouring the armored belt, studs are placed in it with a pitch of no more than 100 cm.
2. They are attached using a knitting wire to the reinforcing frame of the belt. Instead of wire, you can use plastic ties to secure the studs.
3. The accuracy of the installation of the studs horizontally and vertically is checked.
4. Concrete is poured into the armored belt formwork.
5. After it hardens, the prepared timber is put through the holes onto the protruding ends of the studs and pulled to the surface with nuts.

Chemical anchor

This product is also called liquid dowel, injection mass or glued-in anchor. Essentially, it is an adhesive with high adhesive characteristics, which is made on the basis of a synthetic polymer resin. Thanks to the chemical anchor, it is possible to firmly fasten the metal rod and the base.

Important: unlike others fastening elements liquid dowel does not create expansion stress in the material, which is especially dangerous for fragile aerated concrete at the edges of walls.

Unlike mechanical anchors, the fixation of which is based on the use of friction forces and expansion of the polymer dowel, chemical anchor It is fixed due to the fact that the glue penetrates the pores of aerated concrete to a considerable depth and firmly secures the rod in the wall.

Installation of a chemical anchor is performed in the following sequence:

1. First, a hole is drilled along the anchor. However, its size should be slightly larger than for a regular anchor bolt.
2. Using a special brush or compressed air Dust, debris and metal chips are removed from the channel.
3. A special chemical adhesive is poured into the hole prepared in the wall.
4. After this, a steel rod is inserted there - a threaded rod M 12-14. You can also take a piece of reinforcement of a suitable diameter for these purposes.
5. The adhesive composition gains the required strength in 20 minutes, provided that the ambient temperature is approximately 20°C.
6. After hardening chemical composition The rod is securely fixed in the wall. Moreover, the fastening strength is much higher than that of the mechanical method.

Advantages of using liquid dowel:

• The service life of such fasteners is more than 50 years.
• This method of fixation can be used on the edge of walls without fear that it may crack.
• The fastener has fairly high chemical resistance.
• Fastening can be carried out on damp material, that is, installation can be carried out even in rainy weather.
• Work on installing the Mauerlat and arranging the roof can be carried out without the use of a reinforced belt, since a chemical anchor is fixed much more firmly in a fragile material than a mechanical dowel.
• This method is ideal for working with aerated concrete.
• The depth of the hole may be less than when installing a mechanical anchor, which must be buried 2-3 rows of masonry.

The only drawback of this method of fixation is that it is impossible to perform welding work, because from heating polymer material is destroyed, the fixation strength decreases.

Mechanical anchor (anchor bolt)

This is a fairly common way of fixing timber to walls. The anchor bolt consists of the following parts:

• external spacer part;
• internal threaded rod.

Fixation occurs due to the fact that when the nut is screwed onto the rod, the spacer structure is deformed in such a way that it reliably fixes the product in the hole drilled in the wall.

The installation of a mechanical anchor is carried out in the following order:

1. Prepared timber is laid along the perimeter of the walls.
2. Next, holes are drilled along the entire length of this product for installing anchor bolts. The pitch of the holes is 1 m. It is important to ensure that the installation sites of the anchors always fall on the corners of the building and the junction of the two ends of the beam.
3. After this, using a drill, holes are drilled in the walls through the holes prepared in the Mauerlat to a depth equal to the length of the anchor. At the same time, it is not allowed to make the depth of the anchor less than 2 or even 3 rows of masonry.
4. An anchor bolt is installed in the hole. For these purposes, it is better to take products with a length of at least 50 cm with an M 12 or 14 thread.
5. After this, put on the washer and screw the nut tightly. As a result, the steel or plastic dowel expands so that it is firmly pressed into the material and fixes the bolt in the wall.

Mauerlat is a design designed accept and evenly distribute the load, created by the roof and perceived by the walls. With its help, the stability of the roof is ensured, provided that the Mauerlat was fastened according to all the rules. To do this, you need to know what a Mauerlat is, how it is attached to the aerated concrete wall, and also in what sequence the work should be performed.

Do you need a Mauerlat?

Without a Mauerlat it is possible to install roofing systems on frame houses, as well as buildings erected from timber and logs. They have the function of this structural element can make the top crown of logs or the top beam. For buildings made of aerated concrete, this is unacceptable, and therefore the installation of a Mauerlat must be done without fail.

With it you can:

• significantly strengthen the building box;
• increase the rigidity of the installed roof;
• align the upper crown of the wall in a horizontal plane;
• ensure fastening of the roof structure and walls of the building.

The thickness of the Mauerlat depends on design features mounted roof. Most often, timber with dimensions of 150 x 150, 150 x 100 or 80 x 180 mm is used for its manufacture. It is also acceptable to use logs that have been cleared of bark and cut on one side. Trimming is done to ensure maximum adherence of the structure to the wall surface.

The moisture content of the wood used must be appropriate regulatory requirements. When using “raw” wood, it must be provided possibility of adjusting the anchor nut once every five years. After the timber has dried, the shrinkage of the wet wood will occur less intensely, and therefore the nut will need to be tightened less frequently.

The prepared wood undergoes special treatment antiseptic composition to protect the structure as much as possible from rotting and insect damage. Before laying the log should be wrapped waterproofing material, for example, bitumen-polymer. It is better to avoid using roofing felt.

If mounted metal frame, for the manufacture of the Mauerlat, rolled products are used: channel or I-beam. It can be treated with anti-corrosion compounds.

Features of installing the Mauerlat

The Mauerlat must be laid in such a way that there is some distance left to the outer edge of the wall. As a rule, about 5 cm. Sometimes it is provided protrusion into which the mounted structure should rest. Subsequently roofing system will have to be attached to this structure.

To increase the service life of a structure made of wood, waterproofing must be provided. For this, roofing felt or any other waterproofing material is used.

Methods of fastening to aerated concrete walls

The preferred option is to install the element along the entire perimeter of the wall. For connection individual elements it is advisable to use it as a whole straight lock, the dimensions of which directly depend on the geometric parameters of the timber used. For reliability, nails are additionally driven into the lock to form a rigid, integral system, to which the rafters are subsequently attached.

To secure the Mauerlat, you can use several methods:

• chemical;
• mechanical.

In the first case it is used special fastening capsules. chemical substance, penetrating inside the material, ensures reliable fixation of the Mauerlat. At the same time, the condition of the top layer improves and the degree of heat and waterproofing increases. The capsules used for fastening are affordable.

To make a Mauerlat you must only use quality materials. The wood should not have knots. The waterproofing layer must not be damaged, which is achieved by using a special tool.

When mechanically fastening it is necessary to follow a certain procedure:

1. dowels are inserted into holes prepared in advance;
2. the fastening element is screwed in;
3. the teeth of the harpoon are firmly pressed into the aerated concrete;
4. surface expanded;
5. fastening has been done.

The Mauerlat must be fastened in such a way that adjacent links were not connected to each other. This improves the stability of the structure. However mechanical fastening involves the creation of an expansion force, which can cause some problems along the edge of the structure.

Fastening with anchor bolts and armored belt

For buildings built from aerated blocks, armored belt is required, since this one building material not strong enough, which can cause certain difficulties when installing fasteners, especially anchor bolts. Therefore, the question of whether a Mauerlat is needed is not relevant in this situation: you simply cannot do without it.

Fasteners for the Mauerlat must be laid in advance. To construct a reinforced belt, it is advisable to use U-shaped blocks, with which you can form a characteristic groove around the entire perimeter outer wall. To avoid the formation of gaps, the corner blocks are sawn through.

The reinforcement frame is assembled using 12 mm reinforcement, which is tied with 6 mm jumpers. Threaded anchors are attached to the frame placed inside the gutter. They must take a certain spatial position, which is controlled using a stretched fishing line or cord. The anchors are placed at right angles to the mauerlat as close as possible to the top beam.

Fastening points should be located along the entire perimeter of the wall. Their number directly depends on the number of rafters: at least there should be the same or more. The fastenings must be positioned in such a way as to avoid contact with the rafters in the future. In order to reduce financial costs it is possible to fill not a solid armored belt around the entire perimeter of the wall, but only individual concrete pads.

After the reinforcement cage along with anchor bolts will be placed in a pre-formed trench and concrete will be poured. To form a monolithic structure, the pouring process cannot be interrupted. Work must be carried out continuously along the outer wall. The gutter must be filled with concrete in one pass.

After the concrete has completely dried, the anchors will be securely fixed in the specified position. spatial position. At the same time very it is important to ensure their precise positioning during the solidification of the solution.

As soon as the concrete gains the necessary strength, the beams are laid on the concrete belt and anchors, which should be inside the holes pre-drilled in the wood. Then the nuts are tightened to secure the beams.

To determine the location of the holes in the timber, it is first laid on top of the bolts, and then force impact sufficient to cause dents in the wood. In these places holes are drilled for anchors.

Good afternoon or evening!

I see that you carefully approach the solution to the problems of each issue, I really liked it, so I decided to apply!
So there is no such problem, but there is psychological discomfort (more on that a little later), due to the fact that there is no armored belt.
Read more.
The house is built as follows.

1. The soil on which the foundation stands is sand and clay (because when the piles were drilled, this mixture (light in the form of sand) came out).
2. By groundwater, the water in the summer stands at about 4 meters (according to the person who sold the plot), but when the piles were made to a depth of about 2.4 m there was no water; Behind the site, a ditch was dug to collect spring water and lead off the road, 1.5 meters deep.
3. The site is flat (the slope is insignificant 10-5 cm by 8 meters), but there is a mountain 300 meters in front of it, and behind it there is a railway(highway to Moscow via Perm) sometimes a slight vibration is felt.
4. Foundation 7.15 m by 8.12 m with a lintel in the form of a cross inside the house, grillage 60 cm (height) * 40 (width) cm (40 in the ground + 20 above it), piles were made every 1.1-1.3 from each other (from edge to edge of the pile) with a diameter of 40 cm by 2 m from the bottom point of the grillage, not excluding the lintel ( approximate view the foundation is attached), the reinforcement used was 10".
5. It was poured in October last year (2012), concrete grade M200 (diagram attached).
6. This year I started building walls (June 2013).
7. Then the roofing material is laid out in 2 layers, the base is made of three M150 bricks (with 2 vents per room).
8. Next came our gas block (600*188*300). The first floor is 13 rows, about 2.4 m, floor beams (10 pieces) are placed on them, since the first floor has 5 walls, the beams were located as follows: the back of the house (where there is no bay window) beams 150 * 150 where - then 4 meters each, supported on the wall and partition by 30 cm (across the entire width of the block), the front part of the house (with a bay window) beams 100*150 5 meters each, and one from the bay window to the partition 6 m, all supported on each side by 30 cm (wrapped with roofing felt).
9. Next, the attic was erected with side walls 1.2 meters high and gables 2.3 meters high.
10. The blocks were placed on glue.

This is the denouement.
I started thinking about how to install a monsard roof, what to attach it to, and so I went online to read about what and how. I read that an armored belt is needed (I had never heard of this before, I thought the gas block was laid like a brick and that’s why I didn’t go on the Internet and the builders said the house would stand for 100 years) and the neighbors didn’t make it and screwed the beam to the block, but here you are wearing an armored belt was needed between the first and second floors and at level 1.2 from the second floor before erecting gables, fittings and luggage between the rows of aerated concrete blocks. What a wonderful material, it’s like shaking a child over it. But it’s too late, everything has been erected. “It’s your elbow, but you won’t bite it,” Well, I started asking on the forums what and how, but everyone kept shouting at me, it’s going to fall apart, take it all apart and do it again. I decided to ask you for advice. There is no extra money to break everything and do it again.

This is the psychological moment. They scared me with all sorts of horror stories. I was thinking of erecting a broken armored belt (along the sloping surfaces of the gable walls) in 3 fiberglass reinforcement 8-thick with a dressing of 1 m, belt width 25 cm and height 20 cm, on it a beam of 100 * 150 mm with a stud pitch of 1.5 meters, then build an attic with a step rafter leg 600-700 mm (board 50*150). A view of the rafters and an approximate view of the roof are attached. What can you say about this situation, maybe something needs to be strengthened, maybe it’s not necessary? How to build an attic from a gas block 600 * 188 (height) * 300 (width)?