With the arrival of summer, many city residents strive to get out into nature at least for the weekend, and if they have a summer cottage and circumstances permit, then for the whole summer. There is probably no person who would not like to take a nap in the fresh air, listening to the singing of birds, swinging in a hammock or chair. To save on the purchase of this simple, but quite expensive furniture element of the interior, hanging chair You can do it yourself in several ways, which will be discussed below.

For the manufacture of some options, the most simple materials, which may even simply litter the barn. For others, you will have to prepare material in nature or purchase it in a store. Manufacturing may require the “mobilization” of one’s abilities in needlework - weaving or knitting, so that work will be found not only for men, but sometimes even more so for housewives.

Hanging chairs became quite widely used in the 50s of the last century - then they were at the height of fashion. Many designs of these distinctive elements of “luxury” have been developed, made from a variety of materials.

• A chair with a rigid frame made of rattan, wicker, metal, plastic or acrylic. In this case, the base can be covered with durable fabric or braided with wicker, rattan or leather strips.

• A chair with a soft frame, made on the principle of a hammock. The main difference between such seats is the size and method of hanging. If the hammock is fixed on two supports located at a certain distance from each other, then one is enough for the chair.

Cocoon chair - for those who like to spend time in solitude

• The cocoon chair is made on a rigid frame and has wicker walls. The difference between this type of product and other types of chairs is that its internal space is half hidden from the outside world. This place is ideal for people who love privacy.

• The teardrop chair is mainly intended for children's rooms, as it looks more like a hanging chair small house, in which you can hide or even sleep. In addition, there is enough space to take your favorite toys with you.

Making simple hanging chairs

In this section of the article, several options for making hanging chairs will be considered, which should be quite feasible for most skilled owners.

Hanging chairs made of hoop

The easiest way to make a hanging chair at home is from a regular hula hoop, which can be found in almost every home or purchased at a sporting goods store. Moreover, there are two options for manufacturing such a piece of garden furniture. One of them will require one hoop, the other two, slightly different in size. Both options will be shown - you can choose the one that seems easier to manufacture.

First option

• To make such a chair you will need the following materials:

- one hoop made of pipe 20÷30 mm in cross-section, with a diameter from 700 to 1100 mm, depending on how large the chair should be;

- two identical pieces of fabric measuring 1200x1200 mm or 1600x1600 mm. A durable fabric is selected, you can take a lining material made of padding polyester that already has stitching;

- a piece of the same fabric 200 mm wide, 3500÷4000 mm long (can be several pieces);

— colored thick fabric for sewing pillowcases for two ÷ three pillows;

- padding polyester, also 200 mm wide and about 3500÷4000 mm long (can be in several pieces);

— padding polyester for stuffing pillows;

— border for processing cutouts in the case — 800÷1000 mm;

— zipper 700÷1100 mm long;

- durable nylon cord 6÷8 mm thick or linen rope with a diameter of 10÷12 mm, length 10500 mm (10.5 m);

— two powerful metal carabiners and rings for hanging the chair.

• Tools you need to prepare:

— threads and needles for hand sewing;

- sewing machine;

- scissors;

- marker;

- tape measure or centimeter.

• The manufacturing process of such a chair is presented step by step in the table:

Illustration
	The first step is to spread the fabric on the table, and then place the hoop on it in the center.
	Next, using a centimeter, a circle is measured around the hoop and marked with a marker, with a radius 250 mm larger.
	A circle is cut out of the fabric along the marked line. You need to prepare 2 such parts.
	The finished elements of the future case should look like this.
	The next step is one of the cut out round blanks folded in half and then cut.
	Next, along the line of the central cut of the circle, a zipper is pinned and then attached. There is a distance of 250 mm from the edge of the cut, and from this point the lock is secured, that is, it must be clearly along a length equal to the diameter of the hoop.
	After the lock is attached, the two halves of the cover are sewn together around the circumference, and then it is turned inside out and laid out on the table.
	Next, to make it easier to mark the cutouts, the finished cover should be placed on the hoop. The markings shown in the presented drawing are made. The places where the cuts should be made are marked with a marker.
	Using the marks made, four cutouts are made through which cords or ropes will be attached to the hoop.
	To make the cut holes look neat, they need to be covered with braid. Having finished working on the case, you can move on to preparing the hoop.
	The hoop is wrapped with padding polyester. In several places, the metal can be slightly lubricated with polymer glue so that the wrapped material does not slip during stitching. Next comes the sheathing process itself. It is done manually, with stitches over the edge.
	The next step is to cover the hoop wrapped in padding polyester with fabric. Well, in order to prevent it from slipping, first its edges are folded inward and pinned together.
	The fabric is also stitched manually, over the edge. As the stitching progresses, the fixing pins are pulled out.
	The sheathed hoop is inserted into the case through a hole into which a zipper is sewn, which is then fastened.
	Next, two pieces of 2200 mm and two pieces of 2800 mm are cut from the cord.
	Then, the cords are folded in half and their ends are tied together. After that, they are threaded through the cut holes, under the hoop.
	The cords are secured to the hoop by threading the knotted ends into the loop formed on the other side.
	Lastly, pillows of suitable size are cut and sewn, and the chair is hung in the place chosen for it. How to carry out the process of securing the chair to the ceiling or in the yard will be discussed below.

Second option

The second option is two hoops in openwork weave

In the second option, slightly different materials are used in the manufacture of the hanging chair, in contrast to the first model. Such chairs are made in the same way as hammocks using the macrame technique, but they can be made in another way, accessible to everyone, since not everyone knows the art of weaving.

• So, to make this chair you need to prepare:

- two metal hoops (ready-made or made independently, for example, from a metal-plastic pipe) with a cross-section of 30÷35 mm, a diameter of 700 mm for making the seat frame, and 1100 mm for lining the back;

- V in this case a nylon cord for weaving is used, 4 mm thick and it will require 900 m, but instead of it, linen or jute cord with a diameter of 5 ÷ 6 mm or strips of thick leather can be used;

- nylon cord with a cross-section of 6÷7 mm for hanging the chair - 12 m;

— 2 wooden bars with a cross section of 20×35 mm, or 2 metal tubes with a diameter of 20÷25 mm. Instead, you can use two pieces of rope with a cross-section of 10÷12 mm.

The manufacturing process of this version of the chair includes the following operations:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step is to wrap both hoops with cord. Every 20 turns, tightening is done to prevent the loops from slipping. Sometimes, to secure the rope to the metal, it is not used. large number polymer glue, which, of course, should not come out. The cord must be laid very tightly, otherwise the finished product will look sloppy.
	The next step is to braid a hoop that will serve as a seat. For this, a “checkerboard” pattern consisting of various nodes can be used.
	This illustration shows a version of the “checkerboard” braid made from flat knots diagonally.
	This photo shows the same drawing, but in a straight version.
	For those home craftswomen who find it difficult to master the art of macrame, or who simply want to do the work of braiding a hoop faster, we can recommend using the technique that is used for weaving rugs. But if, after finishing the rug, it is removed from the hoop, then when making the chair, the resulting weaving remains on the round frame. To make the weaving strong, you need to choose high-quality cords for the base, which is attached to the hoop.
	The next step is to connect the two prepared hoops together using a cord, wrapping it tightly in the front of the future chair.
	To stiffen the back, two supports are made from bars, tubes or thick cord, which are tightly braided with a thin cord. These two jumpers (they are shown in green lines in the illustration above) are secured to the back and seat hoop using weaving.
	Next, you need to weave on the back of the chair - in the remaining gap between the two hoops. Braiding can also be done using the macrame technique, the technique of creating rugs presented above, or the simplest crochet - whichever is more convenient.
	It should be noted here that the installation and braiding of the chair back supports can be done both before and after weaving the backrest.
	It is better to also braid the slings for hanging the chair with cord - this way they will be much stronger and more reliable. The slings are attached to the backrest hoop in four places, and their length is adjusted to the desired size when hanging the chair in the chosen place.

It should be clarified that to make chairs, instead of a hula hoop, you can use plastic (polyethylene) pipes for water supply - they are light in weight and have sufficient strength. The advantage of this material is that the braid will look good on the pipe larger diameter much more profitable and aesthetically pleasing. In addition, plastic is warmer and softer than metal. Pipes are sold at construction markets in the form of bays and already have suitable form, so you just need to select required diameter rings and fasten it correctly.

Suitable for creating frame hoops and pipes. They are somewhat more expensive, but also stronger, since their walls consist of several layers. Metal-plastic pipes, just like plastic ones, can be easily cut with a hacksaw.

The length of the pipe section required for the hoop is determined by the circumference formula:

L = π × D ≈ 3.14 × D

- Where D- this is the required diameter of the hoop,

— S– required pipe length.

For example, if you need to make a hoop with a diameter of 1100 mm, then this will require 3.14 × 1100 = 3454 mm, or 3.5 meters of pipe when rounded.

No need to buy hard ones polypropylene pipes, since when bent they can behave completely unexpectedly.

The ends of the pipe are connected to each other using a special insert of a smaller diameter than the pipe, but fitting tightly into it. This insert is usually made of wood or thick plastic. It is inserted into the ends of the pipe, then they are moved tightly and fixed with stainless steel screws 15÷20 mm long, depending on the diameter of the pipe. This circumstance is important to take into account so that the screws do not pass through.

Wicker hanging chair

A task of increased complexity - a wicker chair

The traditional option is hanging wicker chairs, which can be made from specially prepared flexible rods of willow, bird cherry, broom, rattan or bast. IN middle lane In Russia, the easiest way to find broom or willow, which grows densely along river banks.

Weaving material - long and flexible willow rods

In order to make a wicker chair, you need to purchase and prepare the following materials:

• Long willow rods with a diameter of 10–15 mm – about 400–450 pieces will be required. It is better, of course, to use rattan, especially for those who are trying their hand at the art of wicker weaving for the first time, as it is more flexible and easier to work with.
• For the front part of the chair, a metal hoop, metal-plastic pipes can be used as a frame, or the base can be created from several vine rods woven with a scythe.
• Strong twine and glue will be needed to tie the frame.
• Secateurs, an awl, a knife and a ruler are necessary for measuring the material and cutting it.
• A cord with a cross-section of 4 mm made of nylon, the color is close to the shade of the rods - it will be needed for weaving the back. If you have skills in weaving, then the back is made of wicker.
• Cords, chains or ropes for hanging a chair. Their length will depend on the height of the room's ceiling or other suspension point.

The weaving pattern can be different, and its complexity depends on the experience in this art.

The simplest option for making a hanging cocoon chair involves performing the following operations:

• The chopped vine is steamed and cleared of bark, and then beaten - this is necessary so that it is more pliable in weaving.
• First, the frame of the chair is formed. If a hoop is used for the front part, and an oval shape in the form of a cocoon is planned, then the hoop will have to be flattened a little. However, it is best to use a metal-plastic pipe for this frame element, which can be easily given the desired shape and its ends connected using an insert.
• Then, the remaining frame elements are attached to the pipe. The rods must have a cross-sectional thickness of at least 6÷8 mm, and a length greater than the height of the chair by 250÷400 mm if they are fixed vertically. If there are no rods of such length, then the frame can be made of horizontally fixed elements.
• When mounting the rods vertically, they are fixed on the top of the frame, in its middle, so that they gradually move apart from each other, and in the middle of the back of the chair, the distance between them should be 20÷25 mm.
• The rods bend to create the shape and depth of the chair, and at the bottom they gather again towards the middle. This creates a kind of basket-frame that will be in a vertical position when finished.
• There is another way to form the base, when horizontal rods are fixed to the sides of the frame. They are also mounted every 20÷25 mm, and the shape of the future chair is also created from them.
• The frame vine is secured to the base by bending it through a pipe from the inside of the chair to the outside. Then the bent end is intercepted with the vine with twine.
• Next, the frame rods are braided transversely with thinner vines, starting from the bottom and gradually rising upward. If the weaving goes along a horizontally arranged frame, then it must start from the middle of the back to the sides. On the pipe, the end of the rod is bent and twisted around the main vine. Each rod is pressed closely to the previous one.

An example of compaction of vine laying when weaving vertically installed elements frame.

• The entire basket of the chair is woven in the same manner. The end of the last rod is bent, tucked in and secured in the weave.

Since in such a chair there is no reliable support in the seat area due to oval shape, then as it in bottom part a foam rubber pillow of sufficient thickness is inserted - this can be tried on locally.

Find out how by studying a master class on making a chair for a veranda or terrace in a special article on our portal.

Wooden hanging chair

Another type of hanging chairs can be made from boards, in several versions. Installation of such a structure is quite simple, even for those owners who do not have the skills to carpentry. It is enough to be able to carefully handle the surface of the boards and drill even holes in them.

First option

This option is ideal for summer cottage– it’s easy to hang such a chair in the shade of trees, where it will be very pleasant to relax in the fresh air.

• To make such a design, you must have the following materials on hand:

— Boards, dimensions: length 600÷700 mm, width 120÷150 mm, thickness 10÷15 mm. You will need 16 of these elements. The boards must be well processed, it is advisable to round the edges on them. Some craftsmen use boards from standard Euro pallets.

— Nylon paracord cord – 10 m.

— Varnish on water based for street work.

• To work you will need the following tools:

- Hacksaw or jigsaw.

— Drill and wood drill bits with diameters of 6, 8 and 10 mm.

- Sandpaper.

Work on the manufacture of such a chair is carried out as follows:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	If the chair is made from pallet boards, then it will need to be carefully disassembled, without allowing cracks to appear or expand. Then, also very carefully, the nails are pulled out of the boards. After this, the edges of the boards with the nail holes are sawed off smoothly. All surfaces must be carefully processed to perfect smoothness, otherwise you can easily get a splinter, and in the most inconvenient place.
	The treated boards are marked, stacked in two or three pieces and through holes are drilled in them at a distance of 50 mm from each other. It should be noted here that holes can be drilled along the edge, with a distance of 15–20 mm from it, or in the middle of the board in two rows, at a line distance of 30 mm from each other.
	Next, the boards are laid side by side, and a cord is inserted into the holes, as shown in the illustration.
	The next step is to pull the cord through the holes across the previous connections. When assembling, you must remember that you should not tighten the cord too tightly, since the boards should be fairly loose in relation to each other. This is necessary so that the resulting structure can take the shape of a chair. After pulling the cord, it is tied with a double knot on the reverse side of the structure.
	Next, in the top board and in the second board from the bottom, with a distance from the edge of 35÷40 mm, in the middle of the board on both sides, two holes are drilled, symmetrical relative to the center. They will be needed to stretch the cords of the required length, by which the chair will be suspended.
	In order for the cords not to converge pyramidally upward, but to be stretched at the required distance, in the upper part, just below the point of suspension of the structure, they must be fixed with a wooden frame. After passing through the frame, all the cords are connected and woven into one rope.
	The result is a comfortable chair, which can be additionally equipped for comfort foam mattress or a pillow.

Second option

Second option wooden chair It’s even easier to make than the first one, but it’s more suitable for a summer cottage as a . However, taking the proposed design as a basis and strengthening it, even a hanging sofa can be made using this principle.

In order to make just such a chair, you will need:

- 14 well-processed boards 500÷700 mm long, 50÷60 mm wide, 15÷20 mm thick.

— Nylon cord with a diameter of 10 mm, a length of 10 m.

— Self-tapping screws with wide hats(press washers) 10 mm long.

In principle, you will only need tools if the lumber is pre-treated and coated with protective compounds.

• The first step is to lay out the boards evenly parallel to each other, front side down, a distance of approximately 10 mm is maintained between them.
• Next, you need to determine how long the cord will be needed on each side - for this, fitting is done.
• Between the laid boards, at a distance of 40–50 mm from the edge, a cord is laid like a snake, and then it is laid in the same way in the opposite direction. Thus, each of their parts must be “dressed” with cords on both sides. The cords are twisted together in the gaps between the boards, pulling them so that the distance between the crossbars is approximately 8÷10 mm.
• When the cord is completely intertwined on one side of the chair, on the bottom board, on the wrong side of the chair, both ends of the cord are aligned and securely pressed with a self-tapping screw with a wide head.

After this, the same thing is done on the other side of the chair.

• Now on each crossbar, on both sides, on the back side of the chair, the installed cords are fixed by screwing in self-tapping screws.
• That's it, the chair is ready, and all that remains is to fasten the slings and hang it in the chosen place.

How to hang a chair

The hanging chairs discussed above can be fixed indoors or in street conditions. If you decide to hang the finished chair from the ceiling, then you need to carefully prepare the place for this. The ceiling must be strong enough to guarantee that it can hold a mount with a load of at least 120 kg.

• If the ceiling is concrete and has no voids, then, as a rule, there are no problems with mounting the fasteners. It is enough to drill a hole for a powerful anchor with a hook, and then fix the suspension.

In the assortment of hardware stores you can even find a special kit designed for such an application - an anchor, a hook, a metal chain.

• If the ceiling slabs have voids, then a hole is made in the place required for hanging the chair, through which the cavity is filled with a special solution. These mixtures have a different name and are made on the basis of high-strength polymers. Such compositions are usually sold in special packaging (tubes) for construction syringes.

Special composite polymer composition - “chemical anchor”

When the hole in the ceiling is filled, a metal anchor with a hook or ring is installed into it, and then left for at least two days until the solution is completely polymerized and hardened. Only after this will it be possible to hang the chair on the mount.

• If the ceiling has guaranteed reliable, strong floor beams, then fastenings specially designed for hanging a chair are bolted onto them.

• If the capital ceiling is closed suspended structure, then to hang the chair, another fastening option is used, which has a connecting section of the required length, ending with a threaded coupling. This bracket is attached to concrete ceiling and comes out through the surface suspended ceiling, and then a ring or hook, usually with a decorative collar, is screwed into it. Next, you can hang a chair from the ring.

• You should not come up with your own fastening structure, as it may simply not withstand a heavy load. It is recommended to purchase a special ceiling mount made of high-strength metal alloys and designed for the appropriate load.

• Slings for hanging a chair can be chains, cords, ropes, ready-made or independently woven from durable fabrics. It is desirable that the ropes correspond to the chosen style solution and are in harmony with both the chair itself and the overall interior of the room.

Other interesting options for hanging chairs

There are other options for hanging chairs that can be made at home. Perhaps someone will find one of these designs simpler or more interesting.

• This model of swing chair can be made not only by those who master the technique of weaving macrame. Those who have basic sewing skills can handle it just fine, since the back and seat are woven, knitted or sewn.

For manufacturing you will need slings and four wooden or plastic parts. From wooden elements a kind of frame is fastened together, which will become the frame for the seat and backrest, and slings for hanging the chair from the ceiling are also tied to it.

Find out how to do this by checking out a few available options, in an article on our portal.

A chair like this is quite comfortable for adults, but most likely not suitable for small children, as it is not safe enough.

• This version of the chair can be made independently by those who have welding skills, since the frame for such a design is made of steel reinforcement and sheet metal. The seat of the chair is made of plywood, on which foam rubber is laid and fixed, and then covered with leatherette or leather.

Frameless chair - only fabric, foam rubber and strong cords

• For this swing chair you will need thick fabric, foam rubber that will give the seat and back its shape, a nylon cord and a wooden spacer for the slings. To make such a chair, you only need a sewing machine, a measuring tape, scissors and the ability to work with these tools.

• Another interesting option this is not an ordinary piece of furniture. The most complex element in this design is the frame part of the back. In this case it is made from bent wood, but it can be replaced, for example, with two metal-plastic pipes. They are fastened together with construction tape, and then decorated with nylon cord binding, or first sheathed with padding polyester, and then thick fabric or leatherette. The slings are also made from rope or cord, and the seat and back are cut out of durable fabric and attached to the frame back in four places, in the same place where the slings will be attached.

From the examples discussed in the article, it is clear that making a hanging chair yourself is not such an impossible task; it is feasible for any diligent person. Therefore, you can choose the option that is most harmonious for specific interior and is most suitable for the complexity of the work and the level of your own skill, and then boldly get to work.

At the end of the article - a detailed demonstration of the manufacture of a country hanging hammock chair.

Video: Making a hammock chair yourself

IN modern world you can buy almost everything. The main thing is to make a choice among the widest range offered in the store. But sometimes financial problems they don't allow you to buy good product, for example, a comfortable high-quality chair. And some craftsmen simply do not want to buy a finished product and strive to do everything themselves. For such cases, there are special workshops on making chairs.

Which ones can you create yourself?

Anyone can make a chair at home, the main thing is to be able to work with tools and have imagination. By purchasing necessary materials and having found free time, you can start creating drawings, work plans and procuring parts.

It doesn't matter what drawing is used. There is a special algorithm for making a chair: creating parts, drilling holes for fastenings, smearing with glue and varnishing. Next comes the process of assembling the product, which takes place taking into account the plan.

Before you start making a chair, you need to determine its type. Not all chairs can be made independently, and some are completely beyond the control of a beginner.

Therefore, you need to study all the suitable options and choose the one that you will definitely be able to do.

Types of chairs suitable for self-made:

• The soft one consists of a frame, filling and upholstery. This view is suitable for a harmonious relaxation, where you can sit with an interesting book or with a mug of coffee.
• Folding consists of a lightweight but durable frame that can be folded for storage or transport. This option will become indispensable when traveling outdoors or when visiting unplanned guests.
• Kentucky- a garden chair consisting of bars and wire. This is a fairly easy-to-make type that looks great in a summer cottage.
• Ladle- This sports chair with good fixation, which is achieved due to the possibility of attaching several seat belts.
• Futon- a fairly popular model, which comfortable chair With a slight movement of the hand it turns into a mattress.

• Sliding performs two important functions: a full bed and a comfortable seat. Ideal option for a small room.
• On wheels Able to move around the room thanks to its stable wheels. This chair can be used to travel throughout the apartment, which may be necessary for elderly or sick people.
• WITH high back – thanks to its design, it is comfortable to stay in such a chair for quite a long time. There are many models with a high back, including soft and hard products.

• Rocking chair– ideal option for peace and solitude. Such a “cradle” will rock any person, even those with sleep disorders. This type of chair is very popular among young mothers, because it is convenient to rock the baby and relax in it.
• Fixed– will create good conditions For good rest. For the convenience of users, there are many models of non-folding chairs. Chairs with ears were once popular, which served as lateral support for the head and at the same time acted as a fence.
• Bean bag chair- a frameless model designed to relax the person sitting in it due to the fact that the product completely follows the shape of his body. You can make a fluffy or leather chair that will look extraordinary. This option is the easiest to make yourself, because it does not require a lot of materials and effort.

Materials

The process of making a chair can be quite simple if you choose the appropriate method and material. You can create a work of art from scrap materials and old folding bed. Some craftsmen suggest creating a comfortable seat from a chest or a metal hoop.

To create a classic chair, as a rule, more durable materials are used to make a reliable frame. It can be made from timber, boards, plywood, willow, wicker, logs, chipboard, LSP, metal and bars.

A soft, frameless product will not require large amounts of time and money. It can easily be made from fabric or foam rubber. It will look no worse than purchased, and will give you much greater pride in the work done.

Manufacturing workshops

Nowadays you can find different drawings for the manufacture of both frame and frameless chairs. The master can only choose suitable option, which will meet all his expectations. After all, the design of the product must be selected not only according to the criterion of complexity, but also taking into account whether it will look harmonious in the place for which it is intended.

We present simple step-by-step instructions for making chairs. In the next video you will see a master class on how to make an unusual chair yourself.

Soft chair

To make it you will need sheets of plywood, a soldering iron, a hacksaw, a hammer, a meter, a compass, iron scissors, a drill, self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, fabric, foam rubber and glue:

• You need to start working by cutting out cardboard templates, which will then be used to make parts from plywood. The product will require cross bars, so you need to determine their inclination, size and bend in advance.
• All wooden parts must be sanded. The sides need to be painted and the ends reinforced with metal rims.

• Foam cushions need to be secured to the seat and back using glue. If desired, you can glue foam rubber to the armrests. The foam rubber is additionally secured on top with a stapler.
• To cover the product, you need to make holes and secure the rims with screws. First, the back back is trimmed with fabric, and only then they move on to all other areas.
• You need to fix all the parts together using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. It is best to treat all joints and fastening points with glue.

Bean bag chair

To create this simple option You will need three meters of satin, 4 m of fabric for the cover, 1 meter of zipper, padding polyester, scissors, thread, needle and pins:

• Using patterns you need to prepare fabric parts. You should have a large bottom bottom, a small top bottom, and six wedges. The wedges need to be stitched and both bottoms sewn. Using the same principle, you need to sew the top cover of the product.

• A zipper needs to be sewn into one of the wedges to make the cover easy to take off and put on. 2/3 of the bag needs to be filled with filler, then put it into the outer cover and fasten it.

It is important to stitch all the details of both covers well so that the seams do not come apart under the influence of the weight of a sitting person.

Frameless child seat

A product for a child can be made from timber or chipboard. The front part is made of plywood, and the back part is made of hardboard. Inside the structure, all the curves of the back must be glued with pieces of cardboard. After the glue dries, all irregularities are equalized construction knife. Foam rubber is glued over the structure, after which it is upholstered with fabric.

A child seat is much smaller than an adult seat, so its dimensions should not exceed 60/25/15 cm.

Kentucky

To create a folding garden chair, you need to prepare screws, round and rectangular section, sandpaper, round profile, furniture glue and fabric:

• The work begins with cutting out the slats and sanding them. Then holes are made at a distance of 40 cm from their corners, which are also ground.
• In order for the backrest to change its position, you need to make 3 cutouts, then step back from the slats and make holes for attaching the seat.
• Round slats are lubricated with glue and inserted into the holes.

• After assembling the frame, you need to start cutting out the fabric. Its length should be calculated taking into account further folding of the product. Therefore, you will first have to fold the structure and measure the fabric. The material should be slightly stretched so that the person sitting in the chair is stable in it.
• The material is secured using round slats, after which its edges are cut off and fixed with small nails with large heads.

Chair-bed

The backs and seats should be made from sheets of plywood:

• All parts must be secured using self-tapping screws, which must be secured on top with glue.
• All wooden surfaces sanded with sandpaper.
• The side backs are made from bars. They must have legs, a handrail and five posts.
• The seat is made of three parts, each of which must have a frame made of timber.
• Sliding mechanism works with metal hinges. In order for it to work without interruption, you need to make gaps.

• The seats are connected with self-tapping screws to the plywood sheet with the beams. All three seats should be the same size.
• The seats are secured with iron hinges. The right side needs to be bolted to the sides so that it is stable in one position when the chair is pulled apart.
• The legs are also secured with hinges so that they can be hidden when the chair needs to be folded.
• The entire product must be varnished or painted. And you can decorate the product with a foam pillow in beautiful case, which will be executed carriage tie. Some craftsmen upholster the chair-bed with foam rubber and fabric.

How to make new out of old?

To get a new comfortable chair and feel like a real designer, you can reupholster an old product. By spending a little time and using your imagination, you can get an updated item.

To reupholster an old product you will need good scissors, a construction stapler, upholstery fabric, chalk, foam rubber, jute strands and an electric knife:

• First you need to replace the old springs with jute bundles. They have very good quality characteristics and increased strength. Jute needs to be sewn to back side frame in checkerboard pattern using a furniture gun.
• To make the seat soft enough, you need to prepare a foam cushion. To do this, make a fabric seat template. Using chalk, outline the edges of the seat frame and cut out the foam cushion. Then it needs to be attached to the seat with glue and paper clips.

Sometimes remodeling an old chair requires replacing not only the springs, but also the back and seat. Therefore, it is important to properly upholster the product with new fabric so that it lasts for several more years. To do this, the fabric is draped over the product and secured with pins. All folds and irregularities must be smoothed out, otherwise you will end up with an untidy and ugly chair. It is best to remove the armrests during the upholstery process. This is necessary to ensure that all corners and attachment points are level and the fabric does not stick out.

How to make a chair with your own hands.

There is no doubt - you can buy anything now. Just show your imagination, and they will offer you a lot - both in stores and on the Internet. But sometimes finances don’t allow it, sometimes it’s easier to use scrap materials (at the dacha, for example), and sometimes you’re just itching to do the hunt yourself. It is for such cases that this collection was created.

Let's see how you can make frameless furniture with your own hands, namely a bean bag chair.
The budget for one chair is 40 American rubles.


This is a filler - polystyrene balls

Cut the fabric - (1.4 * 2.5) for the cover for the filling and the same amount for the cover of the chair.


Stitched inner cover for filling.


Already with filler inside.


First try.

The outer cover is already sewn. Ready. The most difficult thing was to collect all the balls because the static voltage scatters them everywhere... I collected them with a vacuum cleaner.
Here's the pattern if anyone needs it:

I didn’t photograph the entire work process in detail (there’s never time for that)), but here are the main stages. I wanted to make exactly the chair. Stable and strong. I imagined how several kids would jump along it at once (and I was right))).


So, first, such a “sandwich” was made in the shape of a semicircle: chipboard - between them there are bars - chipboard. The result is a base about 10 cm thick. This is so that the walls can be secured. For the same purpose, vertical racks. Front wall - plywood; the back is hardboard (it bends so well))). I first drew the curve of the back by eye on the remains of the wallpaper; the back is slightly higher at the back. Base on 4 legs made from old Pauline wooden cubes. Polina fell in love with the chair already at this stage)) Here you can see that I started gluing cardboard, filling the interior space of the chair. Not all layers are solid, most are just glued pieces, there are gaps here and there between them, this does not matter. First I glued it on PVA. But she soon abandoned it, because... The cardboard swells like a wet wafer and becomes deformed, so I had to put a weight on top and wait for it to dry... It was long and inconvenient, so after several layers I switched to wood glue. Great item in every way.


The photo shows how the walls turned out. As I worked and at the end, I leveled them with a knife. Everything is so easy to cut))


Next is foam rubber + Moment Gel glue.
And a case. (This was the best part)) Done.
The chair turned out to be very heavy. But I consider this a plus - according to at least won’t turn over)) And of course the fabric…. These are just some leftovers that were found at home. The fabric on the armrests, even though it is glued with non-woven fabric, cannot possibly count on a long life. But we wanted temporary furniture that we wouldn’t mind throwing away. (In fact, it turned out to be a pity to throw it away... The kids tore the fabric on both the armrests and the pillow, well... my fault - I really wanted to use this particular fabric. But it’s a pity to throw it away - the chair itself is simply indestructible!)

Well, now what was promised




This is what gives the product rigidity - these ribs


we continue to make the back, here we use three-layer cardboard, usually such cardboard is boxes from refrigerators or cigarettes (such boxes are huge 1.20 m by 80 cm in height), even 5-layer cardboard comes from cigarettes, On my chair, the bottom and top shelf, by the way, were made of such cardboard; it’s width is 3-3.5 cm somewhere.)


but the bends are covered with thinner cardboard than usual cardboard boxes. We are assembling the chair, by the way, I glued my chair together glue gun and some other wood glue, I don’t remember, it was a long time ago.
We finish the sides, well, it’s almost ready, all that’s left is to paint.

Plastic bottles are an excellent material for creativity and improvised means to solve many problems. Whatever they make of them. And a variety of boxes, scoops, buckets, brooches, and curtains. They are laid instead of pipes in dachas, they are used to decorate flower beds, etc. My son and I decided to make an armchair, since it seemed to us that there was clearly not enough such furniture in the decor of our room. We now understand that we got a little carried away, not taking into account the modest dimensions of our room, but five months ago we began to enthusiastically collect plastic bottles.

As we accumulated them, we cut them accordingly and put them into “blocks” of two pieces. It looked like this: they cut off the neck of one bottle and, turning it over, installed it in the lower part. Then the second bottle was sent neck to neck.

The result was these blanks for the future chair, which are much more compact and convenient to store than the bottles themselves.


In total, our chair needed about ninety two-liter plastic bottles. Along the way, we stocked up on tape and stretch film.
When we had enough blocks, we started assembling. It will not be possible to clearly demonstrate this process, since at the time of writing the material the chair was already assembled, but I will try to simply tell you. Moreover, there is nothing complicated about it, and your imagination can tell you completely different, more interesting forms.
For the seat, we first prepared, based on the existing ones, larger blocks, tightly wrapping each four “bottles” out of sixteen with tape. Then, using the same tape, we combined the resulting four enlarged blocks into one.
Next came the turn of the “sides” and the back. They are made from the same single modules, only taller - not from two, but from three and five bottles. The extension scheme is quite simple. We cut off the bottom from the top bottle and install it inside, as we did with the neck before. After this, we again place the next bottle upside down. And so on…
By the way, when testing the seat for strength, we discovered that the blocks inside were diverging. It was this moment that gave us the idea of ​​stretch film. However, I think that in this case it was possible to get by with tape. But we had the film, and therefore we swaddled the base blocks with it.
We carefully taped the finished sides and back to the seat and, unable to resist the temptation, completely covered the resulting structure with stretch film. And this is what we got in the end.

This is the basis, so to speak. The chair, of course, is a bit hard and needs improvement. You can “upholster” it and sew a cover on it. My chair is currently covered with a blanket and is waiting to be moved to the country, but my son and I are thinking about a bar counter made of plastic bottles for the kitchen. And what? It may very well be

We will dance from the stove, that is, from the foam rubber, which in this case is our basis. It’s better to draw on paper, but I’ll show you on foam rubber for clarity.


Here is a piece 50cm by 50cm. Divide it in half cross by cross. 10 cm indentation for backrest tilt.
Cut it out like this. You can cut it smoothly with a regular knife (sharp).


My radius is 6.5cm. In general, you need to find something round with a diameter of 13 cm. And applying it to outline an arc.
Using a knife, cut it exactly as shown in the picture. And we trim the rest with scissors. It turns out a little rough, but nothing. The rest will be smoothed out by the batting. We got the following details.


We glue them in a row. I apply the glue with a spray bottle. At home, of course, this is a problem. Using a brush is bad, a lot of glue will be wasted, and there will be seals from greasy strokes when it dries. I think a short-haired roller is the best best option will be here.
Here are the locations for future seams. They need to be drawn on the foam rubber immediately and the approximate size of the blanks should be measured from them.

You need to make a slot of about 4cm in the connection between the back and seat. For retraction.
Like this. Velcro will be tucked into the cut when putting on the cover, so we glue half of it inside
Here's a set of cuts. It makes no sense for me to indicate the dimensions that turned out. They will be a little different for everyone. It is important to show the principle.


Parts A and B are the side panels. They are larger than the foam rubber pattern by 8mm along the contour. Our seam will be 10mm, + will give the thickness of the batting. This is so that the cover is tight, not loose. C - seat, D - back. Strip E is a retractor that we will insert into the cut with Velcro sewn onto it. F and G - back. G is wider because it is sewn with release and covers the zipper.
Here is a diagram of how to sew the back. (I’ll try to draw it more correctly later). The seams are red and blue (so as not to merge. I couldn’t immediately determine the dimensions of parts F and G, so I cut out the parts with some margin, wrote down the size and trimmed them in place. First, after completing the knot with the zipper, I cut off the excess to fit the width, then subtracted from the cut strips I already wrote down the size for the next cut from the original blank, but if you succeed, the same parsley was made in length, then trimmed when it was almost sewn.
Retraction unit. (below) Everything is clear here.
The width of parts C and D is 8mm larger at the edges than the width of the foam rubber. I sew at 10mm. When sewing, it is advisable to pin the cut with pins, having previously placed marks on the locations of the transverse seams. Especially if the car is not non-stop. The contour is large - the error accumulates.
The cover is put on starting from filling the retractor. Turn it inside out, pressing down the foam. It’s easier to do it with two people, it’s not convenient for one person.

Sitting comfortably in this chair, you can safely say that you are sitting in your own library. Indeed, such a chair is a mobile mini-library and is an ideal furniture option for book lovers. Isn't it a great idea to combine a chair and bookshelf into a single furniture module! There are shelves for storing books and a place for reading them at the same time.
There are enough shelves to accommodate a large number of books and magazines. This type of furniture is ideal for small rooms. But you are unlikely to buy such a mini-library chair anywhere, but you can make it yourself if you use the advice of the German magazine Selber Machen. It is recommended to make all the parts of the chair from 16 mm MDF board. Instead of MDF board, multilayer plywood is quite suitable for this purpose. The dimensions of all parts of the chair are shown in the figure.

Before assembling, I sand the parts. Particular care should be taken to process the edges in the cutting areas. Then all surfaces of the parts should be coated with two layers of furniture enamel. The color can be chosen independently and optionally, as shown in the picture, in dark colors.
The sequence of assembling the chair is shown in the figure.


For seat, armrests and internal lining You will need foam rubber and furniture upholstery fabric. The color of the fabric should be in harmony with the color of the enamel used to paint the chair.

Chair - bed (without frame)
To make 1 bed chair you will need 2 sheets of foam rubber 10 cm wide, size 100 cm by 200 cm. Furniture fabric - 3 meters, 7 locks - zippers of 80 cm each, reinforced threads, a little PVA glue to glue the foam between layers. Sewing machine, the ability to stitch, the desire to create. If you sew 3 chairs, it takes 5 sheets of foam rubber.

The chair consists of 4 parts
Cutting foam rubber into blanks
. square 80cm x 80cm - 2 pcs
. rectangle 80cm x 60cm - 2 pcs
. rectangle 80cm x 20cm - 2 pcs
. rectangle 80cm x 30cm - 2 pcs (see photo pink)



We glue 2 layers of 10 cm foam rubber of each part together. All parts become 20 cm high.
Then we cut out the furniture fabric according to the same principle as foam rubber (given without seam allowances).
The seams are 1-1.5 cm.
1 piece
1.1. square 80cm x 80cm - 2 pcs
1.2. rectangle 20 cm x 160 cm - 3 pcs
We fold two parts 1.3 in half and sew the locks towards each other.


The result is a prefabricated part 20 cm x 160 cm. We sew together sides a) and b) and, using the suitcase principle, we assemble a square. Don’t forget to sew the handles down to make it easier to carry the chair, just don’t rush to insert the foam. It must be inserted when the entire cover is sewn and assembled completely. Using the same principle, we cut and sew parts 2,3,4.
An important fact: initially, consider the principle by which you will connect the parts together, so that there are no problems later. For those who know how to sew, I suggest a sewn-in option, that is, when connecting part 1.1 with part 1.2


On both sides of the inside, sew a double strip of fabric to cover almost the entire width of the chair, less if possible.
The smaller the gap, the tighter the parts will then be assembled into the chair.
Or you can stitch a double stripe at the top, as shown in the photo


When all 4 parts of the chair are sewn, just look carefully at the principle and joints in the photo.


We sew the 2nd part of the chair
2.1. rectangle 80cm x 60cm - 2 pcs
2.2 rectangle 20 cm x 120 cm - 1 piece
2.3. rectangle 20 cm x 160 cm - 2 pcs
3 chair detail
rectangle 80(+6cm bend under the lock)cm x 60cm - 1 piece
square 20cm x 20 c m - 4 pcs
The locks for this part can be cut to suit your needs. I did not sew two locks into one chair and sewed one - 80 cm, but then, when I inserted the foam rubber, there was a big problem, I even broke the lock and tore the side of the part a little. To avoid such problems, do not complicate life, sew in two locks. Try to keep the locks as close to each other as possible at the “meeting” junction.
4 chair detail
pay attention! — before inserting this part into the case, I covered it thin layer foam rubber and silk lining material (not necessarily new) just 80 cm wide and hand-sewn. Since on this part the lock is sewn only on the bottom with a width of 80 cm and it is very difficult to insert, and when covered with silk the foam rubber “slips” inside.
rectangle 20cm x 30cm - 2 pcs
rectangle 20cm x 80cm - 2 pcs
rectangle 80cm x 78cm - 1 piece

4 The chair part can be sewn separately for the “Sofa corner”


lay out and sleep.


And when 3 chairs are sewn, fantasize:



There is an assumption that in the future the foam rubber on the front of the seats may sag, I think this can be fixed: you can turn the foam rubber in the other direction, or you can add thin layers of foam rubber.
Time will show. I wish you success, add your imagination. Use your material capabilities and then you can use furniture fabric “more coolly”: Leather, fur, combining smooth with checkered fabric, etc.
When sewing parts for internal seams, I used an overlog, but it can be processed with piping. This will add rigidity. Look how this is done on many bags and school bags.

And now quite necessary information for craftsmen who make furniture with their own hands is the ergonomics of the chair. Everyone has long known that making homemade products, including furniture, is not at all difficult. It is important that it is comfortable to use. This is where the science of ergonomics comes in handy.


Ergonomic dimensions of the chair.
Chair size chart developed by the Swedish Furniture Institute.
Letter Description Size
A
Seat height to edge 45 cm
B
Seat height 3 cm less A
C
Seat tilt 3 cm
D
Seat depth 42 cm
E
Seat width min. 40 cm
G
Back to edge max. 42 (28-33) cm
H
Back to bottom edge 13 (18) cm
I
Back height min 15 cm
J
Backrest tilt 18′
K
Projection point 18 cm
O
Distance between armrests 48 cm
P
Armrest height 23 cm
Q
Armrest length 30 cm
R
Armrest width min. 5 cm
T
Distance between edge and armrest min. 10 cm
U
Free space under seat max. 60′
X
Seat-back angle 103′

Not only craftsmen know how to make an exclusive product from scrap materials comfortable furniture. The advantage of such an activity is obvious - it is the opportunity to translate into reality the most daring ideas for diversifying the living space. An additional bonus is the low cost of making home soft chairs with your own hands. Following the advice of designers, you can make a soft chair for a pleasant time in own home. At home, you can exactly repeat all the stages of factory production of this modern and convenient attribute for decorating a children's or living room. On the Internet you can find both the simplest and most complex schemes.

The first step in making homemade upholstered furniture serves as the choice of fabric for external design soft parts designs. Each master selects upholstery depending on the physical properties and price aspects and features that different drawings have. Let's consider the most common fabrics for decorating chairs in our time:

• velor – velvety to the touch, gives the furniture a certain charm;

Velor upholstery

• flog is a distant analogue of velor, easy to clean, so designers use it to decorate children's upholstered furniture;

Upholstered flog

• chenille - a fabric based on a combination of natural and synthetic fibers, has particular wear resistance (a well-thought-out structure prevents the formation of pilling);

Chinille in upholstery

• jacquard - the upholstery is considered durable, but over time the loops turn into puffs;
• natural tapestry is the most expensive and beautiful view upholstery fabrics;

Upholstered jacquard

• faux suede – universal option for armchairs in a sunny room, UV-resistant and easy to clean;

Faux suede upholstery

• leatherette is a durable material that allows you to play with decorative embossing.

Leatherette upholstery

Material, fittings, tools for frame attributes

Creating a frame chair from scratch presents some difficulties. But the finished product will have a more respectable appearance. You can verify this by looking at the photo. finished products home craftsmen. You can also use an old Soviet “grandmother’s” chair for the base.

To make a simple frame for an upholstered chair, you need to select durable sheets of 20 mm plywood for cutting out parts yourself. A standard set of repair tools with an electric drill, jigsaw, steel ruler, emery cloth, metal rims, masking tape, pencil, tape measure, thin nails, self-tapping screws, wood glue, stain, and glossy paint will also be useful. For upholstery you need: artificial leather or fabric, foam rubber (filler).

Step-by-step creation of upholstered furniture with a wooden base

1. If you don't know how to make a drawing for the base, then look ready-made options schemes on the network. As a rule, they are transferred to a cardboard template with a pencil. Only after this they begin to perform the operations of the described algorithm. This will help you save on excess material, or vice versa – avoid purchasing missing parts.
2. By cardboard template cut out future constituent elements from plywood sheets:

• banana-shaped sidewalls;
• cross bars.

It is important to determine required angles tilt, bend and dimensions of the future frame. A photo of the finished chair, created according to your design, will help with this.

1. The next stage is surface treatment of wooden parts by stripping and grinding. The ends are worked with special care to improve the quality of the work done. These parts are first impregnated with heated drying oil and only then bends are formed with a hammer, if they are provided for in the sketch. Each component element is cut out with an electric jigsaw.
2. The sidewalls are painted or treated with varnish-stain. The ends of the side parts are reinforced with metal rims.
3. The further course of action is related to the covering of the frame. Using an electric drill, make the required holes. The rims are fixed with screws.
4. First, the back part of the back is covered with artificial leather or fabric, then the remaining fragments of the structure, incl. and seats.
5. The upholstery material is secured with wallpaper nails, which are characterized by large heads. In the back of the frame chair, the upholstery is fixed along the edge, along the transverse parts, to better cover the slats.

Pattern of a round chair Wooden frame We cover the frame with fiberboard cardboard

Experienced furniture makers recommend additionally treating the fastening points with wood glue. This move is needed to improve durability created furniture with your own hands.

Secrets of reliable upholstery: how to sew

The process of stretching the upholstery of soft chairs has its own nuances:

1. Foam rubber is cut to the size of the seat (average thickness - 5 cm). The part is glued to the surface of the plywood sheet.
2. Horizontal and vertical fabric straps are secured to the back with a construction stapler. Similar belts are added to the armrests and sides from the inside along the shape.
3. A piece is cut from a piece of foam rubber 0.1 cm thick, which will be larger in size than the area of ​​the seat (the difference is 4-5 cm). Take a piece of synthetic padding fabric of a similar size with an elongated front part and fasten it with your own hands.
4. After the manipulations have been completed, the upholstery is covered with furniture fabric. Using a stapler, the textiles are secured to all corners of the cover and the synthetic foam layer to the frame of the chair seat.
5. The sides and armrests are also covered with padding polyester, secured with aerosol glue over the entire surface. Only after this the parts are sheathed with fabric, securing the flap along the staples.

We cover the chair with foam rubber. Additionally we put padding polyester

The chair is good place both for work and for leisure. Before you make a chair with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with its models, since there are a large number of chairs. For some models of armchairs, willow or rattan is needed, since, being presented in other materials, they lose their charm. This piece of furniture can also be made of metal - forged rocking chairs look like jewelry in the interior.

Chair drawing.

DIY chair - wooden chair

Solid wood furniture is a symbol of solidity and reliability, even if it is lattice models. It doesn’t take much time to make a chair from timber, and it can last without needing restoration. for many years. To make it you will need:

• medium thickness timber;
• plywood;
• wood glue;
• primer;
• stain;
• furniture dowel;
• self-tapping screws;
• sandpaper 3 types;
• Bulgarian;
• screwdriver;
• hand drill;
• plane;
• clamps;
• sponge or foam rubber;
• brushes;
• pencil or marker;
• square;
• dye.

Tools for making a chair.

Beam thickness of great importance does not have it, but when purchasing you need to pay attention to a single section, which simplifies the work and shows the quality of the workpiece.

Ideally, all workpieces should be of the same thickness and with good linearity.

If one of the parts is twisted, this will greatly affect the integrity of the product; it may warp or crack during operation.

How to make a chair - the manufacturing process

The timber is sawn into the required number of cross bars and supporting additional seat cross bars. Availability allows you to work well and quickly circular saw. The edges of the resulting bars are marked, and through holes are drilled at equal distances. The distance from these future fastenings to the edge of the block must be at least 25 mm, otherwise a chair made with your own hands will not be strong enough. A drill stand will help you maintain exactly all the parameters for many holes, on which you can set parameters such as the perpendicularity of the holes, their sizes and distances.

Before making a chair, one more safety concern is required - to treat the ends and surface of the slats to prevent the appearance of splinters during operation.

In this case, all existing ribs are rounded using a grinder or plane. When the longitudinal planks are ready, the remains of the timber are divided into squares using a circular saw, which will be used to separate the planks from each other in the structure.

Assembly diagram garden chair.

Holes are also drilled in them, coinciding with those already existing on the finished bars; they need to be sanded and the ribs smoothed. Each master will determine the number of long bars and squares for himself, based on the size of the chair and the thickness of the bar.

Dowel fastenings are inserted into the holes, a few drops of glue are added, after which each block on both sides is connected to a pair of cubes. The workpieces are aligned along the edges by attaching a lath, then left to dry, tightened with clamps. After drying, the wood is treated with stain. You can thread a rope through the holes on the parts and hang the painted parts to dry. Varnishing occurs in the same way.

To make a chair with your own hands, the back and seat for the chair are cut out of plywood. They are screwed together using a pair of screws on the right and left. Dowels can add additional strength if you drill holes for them and glue them first before use. All parts are painted in desired color and after drying they are varnished. All that remains is to complete the final assembly of the body using bushings and screw the seat. This unusually shaped, bright and eye-catching chair complements the interior well.

DIY easy garden chair

Not everyone likes it plastic chairs, which are now widely used to decorate recreation areas in the country or in the garden. Garden lungs chairs made of wood look more appropriate on the site, and their production does not take much time. Before making a chair, you need to take into account that its design should be light and comfortable; it is best to prefer a folding chair. This will allow you to quickly move the furniture under the roof in case of rain, because even well-treated wood should not be exposed to moisture.

Connection diagram for chair legs.

Wood, in order to make a chair, you need to choose from hard rocks such as beech, walnut or oak. Pine, cedar, larch or aspen are also less susceptible to rotting, but pine is not resistant to mechanical stress and large dents remain on the surface. The boards should be well dried or dried under a canopy before starting work. The following materials and tools will be needed:

• circular saw;
• milling cutter;
• hacksaw;
• plane;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• clamps;
• sander;
• roulette;
• square;
• pencil;
• sandpaper;
• screws or self-tapping screws;
• wood glue;
• drying oil or furniture varnish;
• stain.

Preparation and assembly of parts

A garden chair will require two back legs and two front legs, with the back legs being longer. You need to cut out 2 supports for the armrests, a backrest and a jumper. For the rear pair of legs, armrests, backrest and seat, boards selected in color and texture are glued together until the desired width is obtained. To properly glue the wood, grooves for dowels are selected at the ends. Paired parts can be cut simultaneously by holding two boards together with clamps.

Drawing of a rocking chair.

The parts are then adjusted to size using a router or plane. When cutting out the back, the glue seam, if present, should be placed in the middle of the part. The upper edge is rounded, and after that you can begin assembling the garden chair, adjusting other elements as needed.

The rear legs are attached to the back with screws and reinforced with glue. To prevent the workpieces from cracking during assembly, holes for fastenings can be drilled in advance. The strength of the assembled seat will depend on the correct placement of the boards on it. They should lie in the direction from one leg to the other. The front legs are also screwed onto screws or self-tapping screws, reinforced with glue.

The reliability and stability of the chair is given by the leg - a jumper located between the front legs. They attach it in the same way as everything else, using glue and screws. Then the armrests and the support for them running behind the back of the chair are attached.

The heads of all screws used for fastening should be recessed flush with the surface, and then closed with special plugs. The wood of the finished chair is impregnated with hot drying oil or stain, dried, and varnished in several layers. You can opt for a special furniture varnish, but the most durable coating is found in parquet or yacht varieties.

Design for rocking chair

This chair can be used both in the garden and at home. By expanding the seat, it is possible to make not a chair, but a whole bench that can accommodate several people. For production you will need:

Chair seat assembly diagram.

• electric jigsaw;
• sander;
• wood drills of different diameters;
• screwdriver;
• square;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• plywood;
• self-tapping screws;
• confirmations;
• slats.

If the rocking chair is made by hand from start to finish, it is better to use high-quality materials so as not to spoil the work.

Making a rocking chair

The sides of the chair with a rounded bottom are cut out according to the developed pattern first. They must be completely identical, and there should be no protruding corners on their lower part. Then the timber for the seat and back is cut, the quantity and length of which must be calculated separately for each model. The surface of each block is sanded and polished, and the corners are smoothed. If you plan to use the chair outdoors, the ends of the boards need to be given special attention. They are varnished at least 3 times, since it is there that the wood is especially loose and needs protection from atmospheric influences. To protect street and garden furniture from destruction, the ends are impregnated with hot drying oil several times, and the fibers are flattened with a hammer.

The sidewalls are pulled together to the required size using several drawbars, drilling through the sidewalls. Then holes are drilled at the ends for fastening the bars. The bars themselves are also drilled in advance to avoid cracks during operation. It is more convenient to fasten the bars not between the sidewalls, but on top, slightly going beyond the contour. This rocking chair has more space and looks neater. Each screw should then be coated with an antiseptic and a plug placed on top. After this it is done finishing products waterproof types varnishes, with each layer drying for at least 12 hours. Place at least 3 layers, coat with a thick layer, trying not to leave gaps. Only after this can the rocking chair be considered ready.