Each of us, at least once in our lives, has been faced with the problem of choosing and searching for a product with a set of desired characteristics. Remember how in the famous movie:

• Do you have exactly the same one, but with mother-of-pearl buttons?
• We will search!

With choice parquet board usually the same thing happens. Of course, if you have a lot of money and a complete lack of desire to spend time thinking through the design of your house (cottage, apartment), then you can turn to the services of a designer. In this case, you will make your life and your wallet much easier, but are you sure that the result will meet your expectations?

This article was written for other categories of people:

• For those who are not ready to spend money on the services of an interior designer (due to lack of “extra” money or due to mistrust based on past experience);
• For those who have taste and enjoy direct participation in the process of creating the interior of their hearth;
• For those who are so picky and demanding that they can only be satisfied with the decision that they made on their own and only with the work that they did with their own hands.

Today you can find parquet boards for sale made from various types of wood, including species exotic to our country. Many manufacturers offer parquet boards that already have a protective coating applied at the factory and have some kind of tinting (the wood is given a certain color that differs from its natural color). On the one hand, this is very convenient, because having bought a board of the type and color you are interested in, all you have to do is lay it and the floor is ready. But on the other hand, in most cases, you will not be able to find “exactly the same, but with mother-of-pearl buttons.” Each manufacturer has in its assortment a certain number of colors and a certain number of species; traditional varnish is used as a protective coating. As soon as you want to buy a board of a certain type and a certain color (different from the set of “standard” colors), you will encounter a problem. If you decide to use not varnish, but, for example, oil and wax, as a protective coating, you will encounter a problem. Is there really no way out? Eat. There is only one way out - purchasing a parquet board of the type you have chosen, without coating.

Many people come to us and more than half of them ask the question about what options exist for protective coating of parquet boards. What options are there for laying the boards? What are the options for coloring the board?

What has long been forgotten in our country, in Western Europe is thriving. Remember DIY stores? In English it sounds like Do it yourself and it has become fashionable. This phrase has evolved into the acronym DIY (pronounced "DeeYYY") and is promoted in the Western world as a way to break out of the box, let your imagination run wild, and even save money. Today in our country more and more more people choose parquet and solid wood floorboard without covering. By purchasing a high-quality uncoated parquet board, you get a floor with a finely sanded surface, suitable for any size room and does not require sanding or initial sanding. After installation, the floor can be coated with oil or varnish according to wishes, with the possibility of pre-tinting the floor in desired color or tone.

So, what is a protective coating for hardwood floors and what are your options?

The protective coating of a parquet board is a coating that can protect the board from moisture and contamination. The traditional protective coating is varnish, but there is another, less advertised, but widely used option - oil, wax, oil + wax.

Varnish, oil, wax? Advantages, disadvantages, features.

PARQUET VARNISH, GENERAL INFORMATION

Parquet varnish– is the most durable protective coating. Its strength will depend on the chosen brand of varnish and its type. Parquet varnishes are water-based (this does not mean that after application it can be washed off with water), alkyd-based, acrylic-based and nitro-varnishes. Nitrovarnishes dry almost instantly; the drying time for water-based, acrylic and alkyd-based parquet varnishes is longer. IN lately Specially formulated “deck” varnishes or yacht varnishes are gaining popularity. Distinctive feature deck varnishes are their increased strength (resistance to wear, abrasion) and increased resistance to moisture.

Today, water-based parquet varnishes are produced using two binder bases: polyurethane and/or acrylate.

Water-based parquet varnishes based on pure polyurethane have good wear resistance. But they are not resistant enough to chemical influences, and they also do not tolerate alcohol well. If vodka is spilled on such a floor, an irremovable stain may remain on the varnish film.

Water-based varnishes based on acrylic resin dry faster and are quite difficult to scratch (which is important if there is a dog in the house). True, it still wears out faster than polyurethane varnish. This, you understand, is bad, because the main function of varnish is to protect the parquet. But acrylic-based varnishes are cheaper in price.

New hybrid varnishes containing polyurethane and acrylic are improved polyurethane varnishes on fatty acids. Such varnishes have exceptional wear resistance, which is very important, as you probably already understand. They are also resistant to chemical influences. When this varnish is applied to wood, especially oak, the wood is slightly “scorched.”

Acetate nitro varnishes are now falling out of use due to their content large quantity aggressive volatile substances, which imposes increased requirements for compliance with safety measures when applying these varnishes.

PARQUET VARNISHES, APPLICATION

Usually the varnish is not applied directly to the board. First, the board is coated with primer varnish. The primer must be compatible with the varnish - have the same base (water-based, acrylic, alkyd or nitro) as the varnish. If you neglect this rule and apply, for example, nitro varnish over a primer that has an alkyd base, you may experience curling. It looks about the same as curdled milk (the primer may peel off and curl into flakes). When choosing a primer and finishing parquet varnish, carefully read the instructions and recommendations of the manufacturer. Using primer and finishing varnish from the same manufacturer will save you from unpleasant surprises.

Application methods may vary depending on different manufacturers, but in general they are common:

• A primer (primer varnish) is applied to a sanded, dry, dust-free board. After hardening, the surface is sanded. Sanding is necessary because the first layer, be it primer varnish or ordinary parquet varnish, raises the pile on the wood;
• Next, parquet varnish is applied in several layers with intermediate drying of the layers. If necessary, repeat intermediate grinding. The recommended number of layers of parquet varnish is 2-3. For an area with high load(there are more than 6 people living and there are animals) it is recommended to apply 4 layers. You can apply more layers, but it must be taken into account that this will significantly increase the time required to complete the work (taking into account the need for intermediate drying of each layer).

PARQUET VARNISHES, DISADVANTAGES

Having undoubted advantages, parquet varnishes, however, are not without disadvantages, which include the following:

• the complexity and duration of the application procedure on a wooden floor;
• the need to attach felt pads to furniture legs and use special parquet rollers to armchairs and sofas in order to protect the parquet varnish from scratches;
• fear of alcohol-containing liquids, various household chemicals(depending on the type of parquet varnish);
• fear of freezing and overheating, as a result of which the varnish may irreversibly turn white or even peel off (depending on the type of parquet varnish chosen);
• parquet varnish is susceptible to scratches and should not be walked on in shoes with metal heels;
• in case of damage varnish coating(formation of deep scratches, chips, appearance of white spots) it is often impossible to carry out local repairs. In this case, it becomes necessary to completely sand the parquet and then apply a new varnish coating.

PARQUET OIL and WAX

PARQUET OIL AND WAX, GENERAL INFORMATION

An oiled parquet floor has a much more natural look than a varnished parquet floor. The oil saturates the wood, beautifully emphasizing its texture. Oil and wax compositions can be applied to the surface of a parquet board without special equipment. The application process is quite simple and fast, which in itself is a significant advantage of this type protective coating. There are several types of oil and wax based finishes for wood floors:

• covering a wooden floor with oil;
• coating a wooden floor with wax;
• coating a wooden floor with an oil-wax composition;

PARQUET OIL, APPLICATION

In this case, oil is applied to the already finished coating (laid parquet floor or floorboard). It is recommended to apply the oil... with a spatula! Don't be confused, oil is usually a viscous but very fluid liquid and has the consistency of a motor or sunflower oil. Application with a spatula is recommended. Basically you just spill some oil on the floor and get it going thin layer using a spatula. You can use cotton fabric. The oil is applied in a thin layer. After about 20 minutes, apply the second layer. Do not allow puddles to form. Excess oil is removed with a cotton cloth. The oil is then allowed to soak into the wood and harden for approximately 10 hours, but it is recommended that the floor be left unstressed for at least 24 hours. Oil is always applied in at least two layers. The oil saturates the pores of the wood, preventing water and dirt from entering them and, in addition, forms a protective layer on the surface of the floor. An oiled finish on a wooden floor is protective and has its own advantages and disadvantages. The oil can be either transparent or with the addition of dyes (two in one - impregnating protection of the floor and simultaneous tinting it in the desired color or shade). Oiled wood floors look very natural but will generally be matte (not glossy). Need gloss? No problem - read below!

PARQUET WAX, APPLICATION

Wax is applied to a wooden floor either as a stand-alone coating or as an additional coating on top of oil and enhances the protective properties of the resulting coating. In addition, wax is used to give the floorboards glossy shine. Typically, wax is a non-flowing substance that resembles candied honey in color and consistency. The wax is applied to the surface of the parquet board in a thin layer, after which it must be allowed to dry and you can begin polishing. Polishing can be done with a floor polisher, polishing machine, manually using a cotton cloth or using grinder with a polishing attachment attached to it.

Hybrid oil-wax formulations

There are hybrid oil-wax compositions designed to protect wooden floors, which, like oil, impregnate the wood and, in addition, form a thin, fairly hard, slightly glossy film on the surface that protects the board from mechanical stress. Such compositions, in essence, are “two in one”.

ADVANTAGES of oil and wax based coatings:

• Simplicity and speed of application;
• Absolutely environmentally friendly and harmless;
• Simplicity of repair - allows local repair in case of mechanical damage to the wood simply by re-impregnating the damaged area with oil and applying wax (if it was used before) without sanding the entire floor. Repair time no more than 1 hour;
• Ease of updating the coating (giving the floor its original cleanliness and shine) by using care products from the same manufacturer whose wax and oil were used. The essence of the action of these products is to dissolve and wash away the top layer of wax, which accumulates dust in microcracks - along with this dust. After this, the floor can be waxed again and it will look like new;
• The ability to use not only colorless, transparent oil, but also oil with the addition of dyes of a certain color. In this case, by impregnating the board with such an oily composition, you not only protect it, but also at the same time paint it in the desired tone or color;
• It is worth noting that for artificially aged boards, it is recommended to use a protective coating exclusively based on oil and wax, since this is the most natural combination for the old style. Before finishing the surface of an aged board, it is tinted in one of many ways to give the effect of darkening over time or, for example, the effect of staining oak.

PARQUET OIL, DISADVANTAGES

The disadvantages of oil- and wax-based parquet flooring include the need to refresh it 1-3 times a year (depending on the type of materials chosen and the characteristics of the floor in a particular case). Compared to regular varnish, oil-based compositions are more labor-intensive to maintain, but over time they only become more beautiful.

• Bona (Sweden) www.bona.com
• Loba (Germany) www.loba.de
• Belinka (Slovenia) www.belinka.si

Terrace boards are made from different materials– natural wood or wood-polymer composite. In the latter case, due to the polymer content, the product does not require a finishing coating. Boards made of natural wood are treated with compounds that protect the material from external influence. Among such protective agents it is worth mentioning oil for decking boards, varnishes and paints. Each of these remedies has its own positive and negative qualities, which must be taken into account when choosing them.

Methods for processing natural wood decking boards

The most reliable treatment for decking is three-phase protection:

• During installation, the ends of the board are treated with a special wax emulsion, since these places are most vulnerable to moisture (construction liquid wax can be used instead of emulsion);
• from the back wood can be damaged by insects and microorganisms that cause rotting and mold formation, so antiseptic impregnations are used (they are oil- and water-based);
• the most important of larch and other types of wood is made on front side products (for this, cold or hot oil is applied to the surface, the decking is varnished or painted).

To decide how to cover a wooden floor on an open veranda, you need to study the advantages, features and types finishing coatings, which are applied from the front side.

Benefits of the oil

Many owners of terraces and verandas wonder why cover the board with oil if it can be painted or varnished? But the last two coatings quickly wear out and crack under the influence of external factors. If the peeling film of the protective coating no longer covers the wood and does not protect it from moisture and sun, then the decking quickly deteriorates and loses its attractiveness. In addition, oil for decking boards made of larch or other species allows the wood to breathe, which cannot be said about varnish and paint. As a result, the material does not crack, will last longer and retain its attractiveness.

Benefits of decking oil:

• This good protection from moisture;
• reduces the degree of surface contamination;
• the coating does not peel, crack or blister;
• reliable protection against drying out and cracking of wood;
• oil emphasizes the beauty of the natural texture of the material;
• protects against negative impact ultraviolet rays.

Advice! Before treating a larch deck board, pay attention to the opinion experienced craftsmen. They recommend using oil Osmo. This way the larch wood will be protected from contamination, deformation and rotting.

Types of oils for decking boards

Even decking that has been impregnated needs additional treatment with oil. There are products for sale for various purposes:

1. Products with colorant to give the surface a certain shade.
2. Oils with natural wax, which are applied hot to protect the wood and better absorption into the material.
3. Special formulations with antibacterial additives, for example, Tikkurila decking oil.
4. Products with anti-slip effect.

To give the surface additional strength, buy compounds with the addition of wax. If you don’t know how to paint a decking board on an open veranda or garden path, then it is better to treat them with mixtures with an anti-slip effect. Due to the content of water-repellent components, they increase the durability of the coating.

Varnishing the board

If painting a decking board creates a completely opaque layer on the surface that hides the beauty of the material, then varnish allows you to obtain a strong, wear-resistant, durable and transparent coating. The varnish does not hide the beauty of the texture of the material, so the terrace or veranda looks natural and natural.

Varnish for decking boards has the following advantages:

• aesthetic appeal of the surface;
• the applied protective layer makes it easier to care for the board and requires regular updating;
• high protection against moisture and drying out;
• wear resistance of the surface.

Disadvantages of varnish:

• the varnish firmly clogs all the pores of the wood, so the material cannot breathe;
• under a dense layer of varnish, the natural beauty of the wood is slightly lost;
• fragility of the coating;
• during operation, the varnish cracks and wears out, so it needs to be reapplied (in this case, you will have to sand the entire surface to remove the old varnish layer);
• impossibility of local repairs (varnish cannot be applied to individual areas of the floor, since areas with layers will be visible, you will have to sand and apply a new coating on the entire surface).

Types of varnishes for outdoor boards

For terrace decking laid under open air, the following types of varnishes are suitable:

1. Yacht varnish. These are polyurethane-alkyd compounds or alkyd-based mixtures. The main advantage of these compounds is increased hardness and wear resistance. If you cover a board that will be used outdoors with yacht varnish, it will not last more than one season, since it will crack due to deformation expansion and contraction of the wood. This is due to the low elasticity of the varnish. It peels off very quickly from the base when used outdoors.
2. Facade varnish. It includes alkyd-acrylic and acrylic compositions. These elastic mixtures do not crack or peel due to deformation changes in the wood. However, they are quite soft, so they do not increase the wear resistance of the decking. Another disadvantage of facade varnish is that it is very difficult to sand off, since soft material scores very quickly abrasive wheel grinding machine.

Important! Varnishes make deck boards easier to care for and extend their service life.

Wood paints

Paint for decking boards is no less in demand than varnish or oil. Its advantages are as follows:

• simplicity and ease of application;
• creates a durable finishing layer;
• reliably protects the material from moisture and sunlight;
• increases surface wear resistance;
• aesthetic appeal.

The disadvantages of paints for terrace decking include the fact that they hide the natural beauty of the material and the surface loses its natural appearance. Paints wear out and crack quickly.

Types and selection rules

For outdoor terrace coverings The following types of paint compositions are suitable:

1. Alkyd and oil paints They allow you to save money and are suitable if the floor was previously covered with an oil composition. These are reliable, but short-lived coatings.
2. Water-based mixtures based on acrylic components provide good adhesion to wooden base and provide increased resistance of the material to external weather influences. The composition is already ready for use. When thickening, the mixture is simply diluted with water.
3. For increased wear resistance of the floor, use polyurethane paints. These abrasion-resistant and durable coatings extend the life of your boards by decades.
4. Latex paints adheres well to the base, odorless, very durable. The most important advantage of latex mixtures is that they allow wood to breathe.

What type of coating should I choose for my decking?

Experienced craftsmen advise owners of private houses to use special oil to cover decking boards. It's universal durable material With high degree protection. Oil is considered an environmentally friendly product. It is safe for human health, since only oils of natural origin are used in the composition.

Among the benefits that speak in favor of the oil are the following.

Impregnation of wood is a necessary operation that extends their service life. It should be carried out even if oak and other species are processed appropriately for sale (for example, according to the indicator relative humidity). The reason is the unfavorable operating conditions of the floorboard: high operating loads, and frequently changing surface moisture of the wood.

Possible methods of surface impregnation of wood

At home, oak board impregnation can be done:

• special parquet varnishes;
• compositions based on oil-wax mixtures;
• refreshing blends that restore shine wooden covering.

The latter option relates more to maintaining the appearance of an already treated oak board, so such impregnation is not of a deep nature. Rather, this technology is reminiscent of cleaning a wooden floor, and therefore can be done once a week, or even more often.

Surface wood fresheners - polishes - also have a similar effect. High-quality polishes can temporarily restore the original color of wood and emphasize its texture.

Such technologies are used a month or two after the final installation of the parquet board.

Unlike the above methods, impregnation is carried out at the stage of laying the coating or immediately after that. It assumes:

Impregnation using parquet varnishes

All compounds in this group, without exception, are extremely toxic, which must be taken into account when choosing this method of impregnating wood. Treatment should be carried out in well-ventilated areas, at air temperatures up to 25°C (at more high temperatures varnishes begin to evaporate even more intensely), as well as with the use individual funds protection: goggles and gauze bandage (or respirator).

The toxicity of board impregnation varnishes depends on the type of solvent. Varnishes are made on a water basis and on the basis of synthetic solvents. Water-based varnishes are much less toxic, although they dry somewhat slower. However, in in this case- this is not a disadvantage, but rather an advantage of the composition: quick-drying impregnating varnishes are very demanding on the quality of their application, and with insufficient experience of the performer, they leave behind clearly defined streaks. They can only be eliminated by re-varnishing the wood, and this leads to increased consumption of varnish and prolongation of work.

A clear advantage of parquet varnishes is their durability. Oak treated with such compounds will subsequently require only cosmetic maintenance of cleanliness and texture, which can be achieved by applying polish of the required color to the surface of the floorboard. Sometimes stains are successfully used to maintain the external texture of oak coverings.

Impregnation using oil-wax compounds

This impregnation technology is much “cleaner” from an environmental point of view, since it uses non-toxic components of natural origin.

Oil-wax mixtures are used not only for impregnation, but also for restoration of damaged areas of the board. Advantages this method impregnations:

1. Giving the coating antistatic characteristics. Due to processing oil compositions the risk of static electricity accumulation on the surface of oak parquet boards is reduced. When treated with varnishes, the antistatic effect does not occur, which is explained by polarization organic solvent during the process of applying it to the surface of the wood.
2. The oil-wax surface is warmer to the touch, which is explained by the increased heat capacity of the impregnation components. Therefore, the treated rooms will be warmer in winter.
3. The relatively low volatility of the oil allows it to penetrate into the internal structure of the oak board to a considerable depth. As a result, wood porosity decreases and density increases.
4. The presence of wax gives the impregnating composition the ability to cover minor surface defects in wood that can arise, for example, from the claws of pets.
5. Wax itself is a water-repellent composition, so the board will not suffer from excess moisture, for example, when washing floors.
6. Wax-oil impregnations can be used to treat any room in the house. Most often they process boards made of oak, ash, and larch.

Technology of work execution

Impregnation of wood with parquet varnish is carried out in two layers. The subsequent one is superimposed in a direction perpendicular to the previous one. Due to the rapid setting of the composition, it is recommended to carry out the treatment with a hard, wide brush.

There are much more subtleties in applying an impregnating composition based on oil-wax components. The difficulty stems from the fact that the working mixture for impregnation contains several dissimilar components.

This includes the actual oil, wax, resinous substances that give the finished surface shine and reduce its porosity, as well as a very small amount of chemical stabilizers that provide the impregnation with resistance to changing conditions of temperature and relative humidity.

The quality of processing is determined by the characteristics of the oil. It is divided into three types:

1. High density, with large percentage resin Impregnation of boards using this oil is considered the most durable.
2. Regular density, to which various dyes are often added - from light brown to lemon yellow. This makes it easier to select an impregnating composition to match the texture and color of the board (for oak, dark-colored compositions are used).
3. Whitening oils, with the help of which the color of the finishing surface becomes lighter. More often they are used to process light wood species (linden, pine, maple), but sometimes bleaching oak increases the expressiveness of the floorboard.

Before impregnation, the necessary preparatory work: The oak board is sanded and surface putty is applied to fill minor defects. Then the impregnation itself is carried out in several layers with a break for drying. It can be produced cold or hot.

Impregnation with oil-wax mixtures also has a number of limitations:

1. As a result of the treatment, the coefficient of friction between the surfaces of shoes and the floor is reduced, so it is easier to slip on such a board.
2. If subsequent impregnation with varnish is desired, the entire coating will have to be removed.
3. The method is not suitable if the premises are equipped with a “warm floor” system.

The choice of the optimal method for processing boards, including those made from oak, depends on the conditions of its use and the desired visual effect of the finished coating.

Oak is a very popular material that is widely used:

• Construction.
• Finishing work.
• Making furniture.
• Making art objects and souvenirs.

Naturally, not only freshly felled and sawn wood is used, but processed and high-quality dried material. This prerequisite to avoid future cracking, changing the shape and size of the product. Oak, which is used in construction or furniture making, must have certain physical and mechanical properties.

Therefore, when the sawing is completed, the question arises: “ How to dry oak correctly" We will answer this in this article.

Features of oak wood: what should happen as a result of drying

Oak lumber is quite capricious; it is difficult to dry naturally. It is not enough to simply leave the stack under a canopy or in the open sun to get the desired result after a certain time.

Before how to dry oak boards , you need to understand the features of the material:

• Oak wood is susceptible to drying. This means that when the moisture level drops below a critical level, internal and external cracks can form.
• The most difficult thing to dry is freshly sawn oak, whose humidity exceeds 25%.
• Temperatures above 55 degrees are not allowed initial stages drying. This leads to the collapse of wood capillaries, that is, to the appearance of multiple internal cracks.
• It is not recommended to send freshly sawn material with a humidity above 40% for drying.
• Proper drying of oak requires maintaining a certain level of temperature and humidity.

Features of drying oak wood are such that in order to obtain high-quality material without defects with a certain percentage of humidity, it is necessary to draw up a preliminary plan for this procedure and use special means.
There are several tasks for drying oak:

• Shrinkage with prevention of changes in linear dimensions. Here the humidity is reduced to 30%.
• Drying to transport humidity of 20-22%.
• Full volume drying for immediate use. The humidity level should be 6-12%.

Methods of drying oak: chamber and chamberless methods

From all of the above, it is obvious that obtaining wood from freshly felled oak that meets all the necessary parameters is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process.

There are many ways to reduce the moisture content of boards, logs and beams, but they can all be divided into two large categories:

• Tubeless (atmospheric) drying.
• Chamber drying.

Atmospheric drying is ideally the most affordable and in a natural way reducing humidity levels. The technique has been used in sawmills and wood processing industries for centuries. It is believed that naturally dried wood is of the highest quality and can be used for decades without changing its original qualities. But there is one way significant drawback- time extension.

Because modern life very dynamic, buyers are interested in purchasing material as quickly as possible. Logging enterprises, in turn, prefer to sell wood in as soon as possible. Therefore, in the 19th-20th centuries, many techniques were invented using electrical energy. Chamber drying is carried out in convective chambers; condensation and vacuum drying are also used.

All work is carried out in industrial conditions, as a rule, divided into the following stages:

• Warm up
• Direct drying.
• Cooling, obtaining a given humidity threshold.

Chamber drying is similar to multiply accelerated atmospheric drying; the desired result is achieved many times faster. But the disadvantage is the high cost of the procedure. It is necessary to use expensive equipment; most often this is only possible in industrial conditions.

Fortunately, not so long ago infrared dryers appeared, which make it possible to reduce the time required for atmospheric drying and obtain the desired result in a time comparable to chamber processing. At the same time, all Features of drying oak wood, the material does not experience aggressive influences that destroy the structure. At the end of the process, the humidity reaches the required level.

Infrared drying of oak: advantages of the modern method

Proper drying of oak has now become possible even at home. Infrared dryers manufactured under the FlexiHIT brand have a cassette form factor, are easily located inside stacks, and can also be used for drying small pieces of material. In this case, the volume of wood does not matter; it is enough to use required quantity dryers and position them correctly. The result is achieved in 3-7 days.

The properties of infrared-dried oak correspond to the properties of wood dried by the atmospheric method:

• The material has a specified moisture content.
• The fibers do not warp, cracks and stressed areas do not form.
• Appearance matches appearance naturally dried oak.

It is noteworthy that anyone can use IR dryers; you do not need to have any special skills to get results. The equipment operates on normal electrical network, while consuming very little. Drying one cubic meter of wood requires no more than 200-400 kW.

To check the humidity, it is enough to use a moisture meter; when the required value is reached, the infrared dryers turn off. The oak can be used for its intended purpose immediately.

Oak wood is quite capricious when dried to obtain optimal result in the shortest possible time, it is better to prefer tubeless drying in combination with IR dryers.

Parquet made from oak is one of the most popular floor coverings, having high aesthetic properties and performance characteristics, which can be provided by solid, rot-resistant wood. Oak parquet carries all the basic qualities of the wood from which it is made: strength, strength, wear resistance, longevity. This is facilitated by the high content of tannins and the structure of oak, a feature of which is narrow pores.

Features of the material

Manufacturers of oak parquet have strict requirements for the conditions of harvesting and storage of wood.

1. The wood is of high quality and must be aged for at least 6 months.
2. Each tree must be cut according to an individual plan.
3. During six-month storage, wood must undergo a natural drying process at special sites under the strict supervision of specialists.
4. Wood received at the plant is evaporated in a drying chamber.
5. The material must be subjected to secondary drying, which completes the process of preparing the raw material, finally stabilizing the wood.

All requirements for the raw materials from which oak parquet is made make it resistant to changes in temperature and humidity, guarantee strength and durability, and increase wear resistance. The finished material goes through the stage of selective sorting and packaging in polyethylene or cardboard, which ensures that the linear dimensions of the wood are preserved during transportation.

The quality and color of the wood directly depend on where the oak grows. A tree grown in a dry, sandy area will have a yellowish tint, a fine-grained texture, high hardness, and a low elasticity index. Oak, cut in the mountains, has large layers of wood that have a pale pink tint.

Methods of processing wood intended for parquet production

There are several ways to process wood, which open up huge possibilities for designers of all levels to use oak parquet to create interiors of different styles:

• brushing;
• aging;
• heat treatment;
• Tesk;
• burning;
• patination;
• toning.

Oak lends itself well to staining or etching (standing in water for several years), the result of which is a uniform coloration in a silky, dark purple color, as well as an increase in the hardness of the wood and an increase in its fragility.

Whitening parquet

By the way, recently tinting parquet flooring has become particularly popular. white. Many owners of parquet flooring are wondering how to whiten oak parquet flooring on their own. To do this you need to purchase special remedy(based on the production of bleach) or oil for bleaching wood. An important condition is grinding with a single-disc polishing machine.

Old oak parquet needs to be scraped. Remove debris and dust from the floor. Apply a product with a whitening effect to the parquet as indicated in the instructions (usually for 10 hours). Then scrub the floor again, removing excess bleach. All defects should be repaired with a putty compound purchased or made from PVA and wood dust. After the putty has dried, the floor is sanded and varnished.

Cutting methods

If you need to buy parquet for floors that bear heavy loads, then you should pay attention to the thickness of the annual rings: the larger it is, the higher the wear resistance of the material.

Cutting wood used to make parquet may have:

• tangential wave pattern;
• radial pattern: longitudinal straight lines.

The cutting method determines quality characteristics material.

For example, radial cutting is more resistant to deformation and moisture. It is also more wear-resistant than tangential sawing.

Main characteristics of oak block parquet

Pieced oak parquet is planks equipped with grooves and ridges on the edges, which, when laid, are inserted into one another, creating a feeling of integrity of the covering.

There are several selective types of oak flooring.

1. Piece parquet, made of natural oak, has a pronounced natural pattern and is not selected by cutting. Knot radius quality material should not exceed 1.5 mm. sapwood – 10%.
2. Rustic is also not selected by cutting, and has a color that varies from plank to plank. The radius of the knots does not exceed 3 mm.
3. The standard is planks sawn tangentially, with an even color (with an insignificant difference) and a rich texture. The presence of knots and sapwood is completely excluded.
4. The natural radial type of parquet is sawn using the radial method, which gives the planks a uniform texture and color. Sapwood is completely excluded. There may be a slight inclination of the fibers and the presence of knots, the diameter of which does not exceed 1 mm.
5. Radial – parquet with radial cut, having an even texture with a lively pattern. The presence of sapwood, knots, and inclined fibers is completely eliminated.
6. Select radial is also a material with a radial cut, the most even texture. Absent: grain slope, sapwood, knots, pith rays.

Mechanical damage is excluded in all types of selection, which has a direct impact on the cost of parquet: high quality material, causes its high cost.

Cost of oak coating

When choosing parquet, you should pay attention to the following aspects:

• wood quality;
• texture;
• color;
• presence of knots;
• proportionality.

The cost of solid oak parquet differs significantly from the price piece material, the rate of which ranges from 400 to 3,500 rubles per square meter.

The main advantage of oak parquet is its ability to allow various types processing, which allows laying the coating in the interiors of the most various styles and directions.