Today, PVC windows have become very common, and along with them, those companies that install them have gained wide popularity.

However, installing PVC windows with your own hands does not present any particular difficulties, so you should not be afraid of such work.

Step-by-step instructions for installing windows

The whole process consists of several actions that require a sequence of execution:

1. Dismantling old windows.
2. Preparatory activities for installing a new window.
3. Installation of the stand profile.
4. Attaching the mounting hardware to the frame of the new window.
5. Creation of special recesses for these fasteners in the wall.
6. Direct installation of the window and its alignment.
7. PVC fastening.
8. Filling all seams with polyurethane foam.
9. Window sill installation and leveling.
10. Fastening slopes.
11. Adjusting window fittings.
12. Low tide installation.

It must be said that many of these stages are preparatory, so the whole process can be divided into the following types of work:

1. Preliminary measurements of all parameters.
2. Preparing to install the opening.
3. Do-it-yourself preparation of PVC windows.
4. Direct installation.

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Measurements and calculations

Before purchasing a product, you should carefully measure its required parameters. In this case, you need to take into account one characteristic of the opening:

• has a quarter;
• does not have a quarter.

A quarter is a special detail of a block, concrete or other structure, which serves to reduce heat loss.

If there is no quarter, then the window is made 5 cm shorter in length and 3 cm shorter in width. This is explained by the fact that in in this case it is necessary to leave gaps - 1.5 cm on each side, and 3.5 cm at the bottom for the window sill.

It must also be said that in various documentation (standards) there are 2 cm, not 1.5 cm.

As for the opening that has a quarter, then PVC windows are ordered for it, which are 3 cm wider than the width of the opening itself. But the length in this case should remain the same.

In order for all measurements to be correct and the window to fit in the future, they must be carried out at the narrowest point.

There are subtleties when choosing the size of the ebb and window sill. In most cases, windows are installed by removing them a third deep into the opening, that is, not in the center. However, installing windows yourself allows you to make a choice in this regard. Accordingly, the window sill is chosen based on the result obtained.

You just need to say that both ebb and window sills should be 5 cm larger than what was obtained as a result of the measurements.

As for the width of the window sill, it should overlap the window on each side by 2 cm. When calculating, the minimum margin can be considered 8 cm, but it is better to make 15 cm, so that later these cutouts can be redone if the first attempt is unsuccessful.

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Making a window opening

So, when all the calculations are completed and the dimensions of all components are known, you can begin to prepare the place where the product will be installed.

First you need to start removing the old window. This can be done in various ways. If you are dealing with an old wooden window, then it is better to do this:

1. First, remove all the glass, for which you need to remove the glazing beads or nails holding them in place.
2. Then remove any nails or glazing beads that are holding the frame itself.
3. Remove frame.

Why do you need to remove glass? The fact is that old windows were very often simply nailed to the window sill through the frame. During the process of dismantling the fixed window, the glass could simply crack and fall out of its place, which is unsafe. After the old window frame is dismantled, the entire niche must be cleaned of dirt, dust and paint residues.

It should be noted: foam adheres best to fresh wood, so the old layer must be removed, which can be done with a plane, sandpaper or a grinder with a grinding wheel.

Of course, this should only be done in wooden niches.

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The process of preparing a new window

It must be said right away that some professional workers who have already installed more than a dozen PVC windows with their own hands do this without disassembling them. Regarding independent work, it is better to adhere to the following recommendations.

It is necessary to free the frame from the sashes. To do this, remove the pin, which is located in top loop. It can be removed with pliers and a screwdriver by carefully picking it up and pushing it out. After removing the pin, the sash can be easily removed from the bottom hinge. If the window does not have sashes, then it is necessary to remove the glass from it, which can be done by removing all the glazing beads. You can use a knife or spatula for this. It is inserted into the gap between it and the frame and moved to the side with a smooth movement.

It must be said that such procedures need to be performed only in the case of large products. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the new window, then it is better not to do this.

From the outside of the frame it is necessary to remove protective film so that there are no difficulties with this later.

Then you need to apply markings, that is, mark the places where the product is attached to the niche, regardless of which method is chosen (we will talk about them a little further). It is recommended to adhere to a step of 0.4 m. The minimum distance from the attachment point to the corner should be at least 15 cm.

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Installation methods for PVC windows

It must be said right away that the choice of method should not be based on such product parameters as the number of sashes and chambers in a double-glazed window. The installation method should be chosen based on the dimensions of the product and depend only on the material from which the walls are made.

So, PVC installation windows can be done in one of two ways:

• on anchor bolts or dowels;
• using special fastening fittings.

Anchors and dowels secure the frame to the wall. In this case, in the case of both anchor bolts and dowels, holes of appropriate sizes are drilled.

Installation using these fasteners is good when it comes to concrete, block or brick walls.

As for fastening fittings, they are usually used in the case of wooden walls. But it should be noted that this is an optional rule.

The bottom line is that the plates are pressed into the profile and installed against the wall. Such plates themselves are attached using ordinary self-tapping screws.

If you want to install plates on brick or concrete walls, then it is best to pre-cut openings of appropriate sizes in them. This will help avoid unnecessary work associated with subsequent leveling of slopes.

Very often, builders use both methods at once when installing windows, which is also acceptable.

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Installation technology

Window installation begins with inserting a prepared frame or the entire window into the niche. Before this, it is necessary to lay bars or plastic corners. They will help ensure the required minimum clearance.

The frame is aligned vertically and horizontally, as well as relative to the center of the niche. This is easy to do by moving these same corners.

Spacer wedges or angles are best placed under the frame mounting points.

This will give it additional rigidity and thereby protect it from deformation at the time of fastening.

Since the installation of PVC windows may differ in the fastening devices used, the installation technology will also be different. And the differences begin with the next step:

1. If the opening is made of wood, then further installation involves screwing a self-tapping screw through a pre-drilled hole in the frame. The self-tapping screw is not screwed in completely, but only so as to slightly “bait” it.
2. On concrete or brick walls, marks are placed through the same holes. Then the frame is removed, and holes for anchor bolts or dowels are drilled at the marks. The frame is then installed in its original place and secured with anchors, but not completely.
3. In the case when fastening is carried out using anchor plates, they simply need to be bent so that they touch both the opening and the frame in the right place.

After pre-installation you need to check the verticality and horizontality of the installed frame again. This can be done using a conventional construction hydraulic level or a plumb line.

After checking, the frame is completely secured. At the same time, the anchors are not tightened too much. The final tightening time is determined by the moment when the head of the anchor is aligned with the plane of the frame. Some builders even recommend leaving 1 mm.

Then you should attach all dismantled to preparatory stage window parts, i.e. glass or sash. After installation they should be adjusted.

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam. A situation often arises when the window is so smaller than the opening that there is a gap between them that is larger than necessary. If this gap does not exceed 4 cm, then it can be completely filled with polyurethane foam. If the gap is from 4 to 7 cm, then it is recommended to fill it with polystyrene foam, securing it with polyurethane foam.

When the gap is more than 7 cm (except as specified below), it is required to fill it with boards, bricks or other similar materials. Cement mortar will also work.

The ebb is installed on foam. Additionally attached with self-tapping screws to this profile, if used, or to wooden blocks.

The ebb tide is installed with an inclination away from the window.

After the foam has dried, you can begin installing the window sill. It starts under the “clover” by 2 cm. It must be said that window sills are not installed strictly horizontally. This is done to prevent moisture from accumulating on their surface. In order to create a slope of the window sill, it is also installed on polyurethane foam.

After all installation steps have been completed, the window should not be touched for another 16-20 hours. This is necessary in order not to violate the integrity of all gaps, that is, not to displace the product relative to its original position.

Those who decided to change the old ones wooden windows on plastic ones, you may wonder: is it possible to install them yourself? Although this is a job of average complexity, it can still be done by those who have at least some construction skills. Installing small windows in private homes is much easier than installing windows large sizes on the balconies apartment buildings. In this article we will look at a more complex option for installing windows in multi-storey building.
If you are not an expert in this matter, then it is better to ask for more experienced craftsman so that he can calculate in advance what size plastic windows need to be ordered. So that they are not too big or too small. When the windows are delivered to you, immediately check that all components and fittings are present, and also check that the window dimensions are accurate. Only then sign the windows delivery documents.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows

First you need to dismantle the old windows. To do this, you may need a wood saw to cut the beams and window sill. You will also need a pry bar.
If you do not live on the first floor, then when the windows are delivered they will be disassembled to make it easier for the movers to bring them into the apartment. This is good because you also need it. In addition, you will have to additionally disassemble the double-glazed windows by removing the glass, since they provide the main weight. The glass must be dismantled so that it is convenient for you to attach the window sill and ebbs. Dismantling of the drains is carried out by removing the plastic bead.

Before you start installing the windows, you need to attach the fasteners for the mosquito net, since then it will be difficult, because if you do not live on the first floor from the street, this will be impossible. To do this, place the mosquito net against the window opening and screw the top fastenings, then the lower ones, but in such a way that the net can be removed, for example in winter. Therefore, the lower fastenings should be slightly lower than the size of the mosquito net.

Next, you can mount metal fasteners to the top and side of the window block. This is done using self-tapping screws, which should be included with the fittings.

If the window openings are long, then several window blocks are usually ordered, which are connected to each other with special fasteners (connectors). It is necessary to immediately fasten the windows with a connector on both sides, and additionally fasten them with self-tapping screws.

If you have ordered visors, they must be attached to the top of the window block by screwing them into the profile with self-tapping screws. This is done after you have installed the metal fasteners.

Next, you can start installing the window. If the windows are large, then you will need help from at least one person to help lift and place the window. Also, when you attach the window to the wall, you also need to hold them.
Immediately try to level the window block by placing wooden wedges under the bottom and leveling it horizontally.

Once the window is approximately level, it can be attached to the wall on the side and at the top. To do this you will need a hammer drill and quick installation. After drilling the hole, bend the metal fasteners, and then hammer the quick assembly into the hole.

After you have secured all the metal fasteners, check the level of the window unit again vertically and horizontally.

If everything is in order, then proceed with the installation of further parts. First, you can fix the window sill; it is attached with self-tapping screws to the lower profile from the street side.

After this, from the street you also need to screw the sills into the lower profile of the window. Keep in mind that canopies, ebbs, and window sills will not always be exactly the size you need. Most often they are slightly longer. Therefore, you will have to cut off the canopies and ebbs with a grinder or metal scissors, and the window sill with a jigsaw or grinder. You will need a tape measure to measure the required dimensions and a square to accurately draw the lines along which you will cut.
At this stage, you can blow out the openings between the windows and slabs with polyurethane foam. To save a little on foam, especially if the gaps are large, you can use polystyrene foam.

Then the opening windows that have been removed are attached to the window block. To do this, you immediately need to screw the fittings (handles) to them, then insert the window into special grooves.

In order for the window to open freely in all modes, the window must be adjusted with a special key (hexagon). In the grooves on which the window is placed, there are special holes for the hexagon, where you can adjust the window by turning it with a key from above and below. The goal of the setting is to make the window easy to close and come off in all modes.

When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for a person with no experience. Company employees who do this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation plastic windows done with your own hands by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of “professionals”. They simplify the process to the point of indecency, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky to find truly masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not, take a weekend and install it yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an understanding of window design. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made from polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras there will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, an insert is visible blue. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. Optimal choice, if you need normal windows, use the standard class. In economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment they are installed. Premium has a high price due to options that, in fact, are not needed.

If you want to have best profile for plastic windows, take the standard class of any factory. There is no particular difference between products from different companies. They have long been standardized and all managers’ stories about the advantages are fairy tales. If they are made on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.

Profiles for windows in standard version have white, but they can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - to order. Windows made from colored profiles are more expensive than similar white ones.

Window structure

To understand what is being discussed in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

• Frames. This is the base of the window.
• If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is made of two parts, there is one impost; If there are three parts, there are two, etc.
• The opening part of the window is called the sash, the stationary part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically sealed together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses to ensure tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through the windows. There are also double-glazed windows with inert gas pumped between the glass panes. It also reduces heat loss.
• Double-glazed windows are pressed to the frame with a cap - a thin plastic strip. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber seal (it is usually black).
• Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
• To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - frame, impost and sashes.

At the bottom of the outer side of the frame (the one facing the street) there are drainage holes that are closed with special caps. Through them, condensation that forms inside due to the difference in temperature outside and indoors is discharged to the street.

The window also has a sill - a board on the outside that removes precipitation and a window sill on the inside. Side and top parts from the street and indoors. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will be asked for six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. To measure everything correctly, you need to determine whether your window opening is made with a quarter or without.

Inspect the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, the opening is a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the most small value, add 3 cm to it. Transmit the height as it is.

If the opening is smooth, the calculation proceeds differently. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width and 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides under the mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since the same 1.5 cm is needed on top, and 3.5 cm on the bottom will be used to install the window sill.

The length of the window sill and ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “recessed” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the tides is standard, so the nearest larger one is selected. On window sills the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like them wide so they can put something, others prefer them flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.

When ordering, you will need to indicate how many and what parts will be in your window: whether there is a capercaillie or not, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to indicate the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Preparation

If you are replacing windows, installing plastic windows yourself begins with dismantling the old one. Problems usually do not arise: breaking does not build. After dismantling, it is necessary to inspect the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - using a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, you need to remove all construction waste. Ideally, sweep everything away, even the dust, otherwise during installation the foam will not “grab” well on the wall.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them up cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the it will be easier installation. If the wall material is loose, they can be processed binders: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to install correctly: choosing an installation method

There are two different techniques: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame and anchors are driven through them into the wall. This method is more complicated, but the fastening is more reliable.

This is a setup for anchor bolt. There are three of them on each side.

When installing without unpacking, attach to the frame from the outside metal plates, and then - to the walls. This is naturally faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: under significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.

If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are often used when installing a rafter system.

In principle, small windows, installed on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in a region with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building, in these cases installation with unpacking is necessary.

Below, watch an emotional and intelligible video that explains why it is better to use anchors.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step-by-step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, the load-bearing capacity of which is low and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window must stand in the soft layer, then it will need to be secured with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.

Installation and unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening to make sure they are compatible. Afterwards you can start working. The process begins with disassembling (unpacking) the PVC window. Here are the steps:

1. 1. 1. 1. Removing the window sash:
            • Close the window (the handle is turned down).
            • Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They are pryed off with a screwdriver.
            • There is a pin on the top hinge that provides a movable connection. It is located in the center and protrudes slightly. They press on it until it sinks (you can take a metal plate, rest it against the pin and lightly tap the plate). The pin will slide out from below. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and pull it down and pull it out.
            • Hold the door up and open the lock. To do this, place the handle in a horizontal position. Rejecting top part slightly toward you, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.

            The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
            

         2. On the wood grouse, remove the glass unit. It is held in place by glazing beads. They need to be removed, then the glass unit itself will be removed without any problems. Remove the glazing beads like this:
            • Something narrow and strong is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If you don't have a special tool, it's best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins from one of the long sides.
            • The spatula is carefully pushed into the crack with a corner and the glazing bead is gradually moved away from the frame.
            • Without removing the tool, move along a little, again pushing the glazing bead to the side.
            • This goes along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated; it is simply removed.
            • With the short side, everything is simpler: you pry up the free edge and, by turning the spatula, remove it from the groove. Grab the free edge with your hand and pull up.

            Now you can try to remove the glass unit. Just be careful: it's heavy. If that doesn't work, remove another one of the beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted and the glass unit does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.

      1. The freed frame is covered with a special self-adhesive tape along the outer perimeter. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With it the window doesn't get so cold.

         

      2. Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
      3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. Mounting wedges are used to align it. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. By placing them, the window is set strictly level in three planes. The position of the window is pre-fixed. This is what you can use mounting plates for.

         

      4. Take a drill and a drill bit that matches the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm retreat from the top edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is approximately the same distance from the bottom corner. Between them in standard window install another anchor: the maximum distance between two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
      5. Having made a hole, check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You cannot overtighten: the profile should not sag. Repeat this operation required quantity once.

         

      6. Install ebb tides outside. To do this, first a vapor-permeable waterproofing is glued to the outer part of the frame (it is self-adhesive). Small grooves are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.

         

      7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is placed under the projection of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

         

      8. Along the lower edge the ebb also foams.

         

      9. Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
      10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the contour of the frame - it is also recommended by GOST.
      11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps to 2/3 of the volume. If the gap is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is 2/3 filled.

          

          Foaming PVC windows during DIY installation can be carried out in several stages - depending on the size of the gap

      12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using tape, the slopes will need to be made of plastic: the plaster and mortar will not “stick” to it.
      13. Assemble all parts of the window. There are only finishing work, and they are not a hindrance.
      14. A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support blocks made of hard wood treated with impregnation. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5°).

          

Watch the video to learn how to correctly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

The last to be installed or sealed are the slopes. One more video on this matter.

Installation without unpacking

The main details are described above, so this chapter is short. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal ones.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchors: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then installing plastic windows with your own hands with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is leveled in the opening. Only they attach not the frame, but the plates, and not to anchors, but to dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert a dowel, put the plate in place and tighten the dowel. Further all actions are identical.

Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: a decent amount of work is spent on disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than an anchor. For example, like in the video.

Most homeowners choose to install plastic windows not only because of their excellent performance, but also because of the ease of installation. This process is simple due to the fact that the design provides very easy-to-install fasteners and additional parts that are included in the package of the window. Many people are interested in how exactly professional installers install windows. With the most minimal skills in using tools, any homeowner can install such windows.

Of course, as with the installation of any structural element, when installing PVC windows, you will need to observe a number of features and certain actions. It is advisable to carry out this kind of work with an assistant, even one who does not have any construction skills; when leveling the window, some difficulties may arise if you do this work alone. Correct execution all the nuances of installation will help you complete the job accurately and save on the labor of hired workers.

Carrying out measurements and calculations

Before purchasing windows, you should take measurements of the openings - based on this data, you will place an order to the workshop. When taking measurements, you need to take into account whether they are a quarter or not. Foam concrete buildings are characterized by quarter openings, which greatly reduces heat loss. For an opening without a quarter, when ordering fiberglass windows, the length will be 5 cm less than that the same parameter at the opening. 3 cm is subtracted from the value defined as the width of the opening. Gaps of 1.5 cm should be provided along the contour - they are necessary in order to carry out foaming. An additional 3.5 cm should be left at the bottom for installing the window sill. According to GOST, 2 cm should be left around the perimeter.

To do correct measurements for an opening with a quarter, measurements should be taken at the narrowest point. When ordering windows, add 3 cm to the measured width; the length does not change the value.

More often, PVC window structures are not installed in the middle of the opening, but at a depth of approximately 1/3 from the outer plane. But if you are going to install the structure yourself, you can move the window a little at your discretion. To order sills and window sills, you should definitely take these parameters into account. Add 5 cm to the widths calculated for the intended location of the windows.

When determining the width of the future window sill, it is necessary to take into account the battery - it should be covered by the window sill by about half. Add another 2 cm - the window sill will need to be placed under the base of the window frame. You need to leave a margin in length - at least 8 cm. But it will be much better if you add 15 cm - this allows you to cut the window sill more beautifully.

Plastic side plugs are usually included with ebb and window sills. You shouldn’t refuse them, although some masters do just that.

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Window frame installation methods

The technology for installing polyvinyl chloride windows does not depend on how many internal chambers are in the metal-plastic profile, nor on the number of chambers in double-glazed windows. When developing an installation plan, you will need to take into account the following points: the material from which the walls of the house are made, and the dimensions of the window plastic construction. Depending on this, the method of fastening and the devices that will be used are determined.

Plastic window frames can be fixed in the opening using the following elements:

• using dowels, mounting anchors, which must be inserted into the walls through special through holes, which are made in the profile in advance;
• Another option is special toothed plates pressed into the profile, which are not embedded in the wall, but are placed “off-the-cuff” and fixed with screws.

Option 1 is considered the more reliable of them. It is more often used in cases where it is necessary to install window systems of considerable size and weight. Window frames with through fastening quite well resist various shock loads that can arise, for example, when using PVC systems with sashes that open in different positions. Anchors passing through plastic frames through, allow you to more accurately adjust the structure during installation both vertically and horizontally.

Those who want to find out the method correct installation PVC windows with small sizes, with solid double-glazed windows, you may be interested in fixing the structure using anchor plates. Fastening elements will not spoil the appearance of the window - they are covered by slopes.

To install anchor plates in wall openings made of brick or concrete, you will need to make recesses. If you do not do them, you will need to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.

Sometimes installers try to combine these 2 methods. The anchors are inserted into the walls through the bottom profile, that is, the base of the window structure and the sides of the frame, and the upper part is fixed using plates. If PVC windows are installed in a bathhouse built of wood, anchor plates should not be installed - they become loose during operation. In some cases, galvanized screws are used instead of anchors.

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The nuances of installing plastic windows in wooden buildings

The installation process will be significantly influenced by the type of material from which the housing is built. For example, for walls made of hollow or solid bricks, foam concrete, the differences will only be in the depth to which the anchors are installed. But openings in walls made of logs or beams will require a special approach. Here you will need to take into account the installation method and choose the right time for this.

Plastic windows can be installed in walls made of wooden building materials only a year after the construction of the house. It’s even better to wait 2 years - during this time the shrinkage process will enter the stage in which subsequent operation will be longer and more reliable. For buildings made of laminated veneer lumber, the shrinkage period lasts the fastest.

Window installation should not be carried out immediately in the opening, as is sometimes done in villages.

A plastic window should be inserted exclusively into a wooden frame, which will protect the window structure from distortion. The window unit itself must be free of any damage; the presence of defects and rot is unacceptable. Before starting work, it should be treated with an antiseptic composition.

After the PVC windows are installed in place, the shrinkage of the log house does not end. True, it will not continue as intensely. To prevent it from causing crushing damage to plastic structures, it is recommended to leave a gap of 3-7 cm between the top edge of the frame and the window frame. After the window is put in place, the gap is filled with jute insulation and closed on both sides with platbands.

There are no building codes precise recommendations regarding what materials should be used to install ebbs and window sills in wooden houses. As a rule, standard sills are installed, which are ordered in one set with the window design. Window sills can be made of wood or polymers. The bottom profile can be supported on a wooden window sill, that is, it can be installed before installing the window.

For those who are planning to install windows themselves, but do not have much experience in this matter, the following information may be useful. Since wood allows moisture vapor to pass through well, the technical qualities of the polyurethane foam used to install the window are seriously reduced. To ensure that the foam blown around the perimeter of the structure is not exposed to moisture and does not get wet, a foil polyethylene tape should be applied to the window block along the line on which it is applied. This nuance is not specified in the regulations, but experienced installers highly recommend not neglecting such equipment when installing a window.

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Standard methods for installing plastic windows

The technology for installing plastic window structures includes the use of polyurethane foam. In addition to providing insulation, it will add additional rigidity to the connection between the opening and the frame. Thus, a layer of polyurethane foam, obtained as a result of its polymerization, simultaneously protects the opening and fixes the structure. So that under the influence of unfavorable external influences the foam layer would not lose its technical properties, it is better to surround it with additional insulation.

As to when exactly to install PVC windows, the decision is made by homeowners. You can also come across the opinion that it is better to do the installation not in summer, but in winter - in this case, all installation flaws will appear immediately and can be corrected very quickly. When choosing polyurethane foam for work, pay attention to the information on the composition - it should indicate at what temperature this product can be used. The foam will only cure at the temperature indicated in its performance characteristics, so it should not be used for work in summer time foam intended for use in extreme cold conditions, and vice versa.

You can read about how to carry out foaming in the instructions that the manufacturer attaches to a specific product. Usually foam starts from the bottom, gradually moving upward. Movements should be rotary and circular. To reduce the consumption of expensive material, it is better to blow out the foam in several stages, calculating segments of approximately 25-30 cm.

To shift the dew point, it is better to perform foaming with different densities. In practice, it looks like this: they try to compact the outer layer of foam less than the layer facing inward. The foam must be poured around the perimeter of the window frame as evenly as possible, without gaps or voids.

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How to prepare a window opening for work?

To install PVC windows, you will need to carry out preparatory work before work. Before installation, any contamination should be completely removed from the window opening: dust, construction debris, particles old paint. At independent execution craftsmen should know that when installing a new plastic structure in a used wooden window frame, top layer It's better to plan it completely. It is not reliable enough; it is better to remove it completely so as not to disturb the adhesion of the foam to the surface.

If the gap between the opening and window frame does not exceed 4 cm, they are filled only with foam. If the gaps are wider, it is better to partially fill them with other, cheaper materials. These can be pieces of timber, drywall, polystyrene foam, brick fragments and other construction waste.

Many people have already felt the benefits of plastic windows compared to old ones window systems. If you still don’t have modern Euro windows installed in your house or apartment, then you need to do it urgently. Availability of high-quality plastic windows window profile and double-glazed windows allows them to reliably protect your home from temperature changes and from extraneous sounds. After installing plastic windows, your home will always have a comfortable temperature both in winter and summer, it will be cozy and pleasant to be in.

Installation plastic profiles with double and triple glazed windows reliably protect the house from the penetration of cold air and street noise.

Often, to save money, people prefer to carry out, and this is a completely affordable task. Despite the fact that the window itself has complex design, it is not difficult to install plastic windows yourself, and you do not need special equipment or knowledge to do this.

Features of the work

Before you begin installing plastic windows with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations for carrying out this work, follow the stages and sequence of performing this work:

• measurements of the window opening are taken;
• Old windows are being dismantled;
• surface preparation is carried out;
• new windows are being installed.

After taking measurements, and this must be done quite accurately, you need to contact a company you trust and order the production of windows according to the dimensions you specified.

One of the problems that may arise when installing plastic windows with your own hands may be that you will not be given a guarantee, since in most cases a guarantee is provided if all the work is carried out by the company’s employees.

For the specified type of windows there are no standards for size and shape; they can have a window unit of any size and shape and are made individually. Particular attention should be paid to taking measurements; if they are done incorrectly, then the installation of PVC windows will be difficult; they may be larger or smaller than the window opening, which will lead to additional costs time and money.

The installation of PVC windows has its own characteristics that must be observed, otherwise all the advantages that PVC windows have will be reduced to a minimum. But don’t be upset, if you follow the recommendations for installing windows, taking into account the individual parameters of a house or apartment, then you can install high-quality plastic windows yourself, without involving specialists.

It is worth noting that what encourages people to install PVC windows with their own hands is that some careless representatives of companies that install windows quite often neglect certain installation stages, thus saving their time. Even if you constantly monitor their work, they may not listen to your wishes and comments, which is why many people decide to install PVC windows themselves.

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Taking measurements

Let's consider how to measure windows without a quarter, what actions should be taken in the event of emergency situations.

If you are measuring a rectangular opening, then measure its width and height, do not forget to add the thickness of the window sill. When determining the width of the window, it is necessary to subtract the dimensions of the installation gaps from the result obtained, and when determining its height, the width of the gaps and the height of the installation profile. Measurements must be taken in at least 3 different places in the opening and focus on the most minimal result.

In order to determine the deviations of the opening in the vertical plane, a plumb line is used; in the horizontal plane, a water level is used. If they are significant, then everything must be recorded on paper, taking this into account the size of the window will be determined. If the width of the openings may differ in size, then the height of the windows must be the same; this condition must be met at least on one side of the house. The window should be installed at a distance that is 2/3 of the width of the wall. It can be positioned further only if you insulate the walls, which will lead to an increase in their thickness.

To determine the width of the ebb, just take the width of the window opening and add 5 cm to the bend. The width of the ebb will be the distance from the frame to the edge of the wall + the protrusion of the ebb of about 3 cm and the margin for bending it. Experts recommend measuring the slopes after installing the window.

The window frame is pryed up at the bottom with a construction crowbar and dismantled.

If measurement is carried out window openings with a quarter, then when determining the width, you need to add 2 quarter entries into the frame, in general, this is from 5 to 8 cm; when calculating the height, you need to add an entry into the upper quarter -2.5-4 cm.

To determine the size of the balcony window, the length of the parapet is measured and 6-7 cm is subtracted from both sides, which is necessary for installing the corner profile. The height will be the distance from the parapet to the ceiling, taking into account the installation gaps. The dimensions of the side window blocks are determined in the same way.

If the building is old, then on the slopes there may be large number solution, and it must be knocked down to determine actual size window opening. This will not only allow you to install the window unit reliably and efficiently, but also increase its width.

Once you have determined all the dimensions, you can contact the manufacturer of window units and together with him you will need to decide on the shape of the window unit, the presence of opening sashes and blind parts, and select fittings.

There are two types of window mounting:

• through the frame;
• using pre-installed reinforcement support.

When choosing the first option, you will need to remove all double-glazed windows and swing doors so as not to damage them during the installation process. Using the second option is more preferable, since there is no need to disassemble the structure, which eliminates the possibility of breaking its tightness, but you will not be able to insert the window yourself using this method, since it is quite heavy.

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Carrying out preparatory work

The anchors are inserted into the holes in the frame and screwed to the wall with an electric drill.

Materials and tools required to complete the work:

• plumb line;
• water level;
• nail puller;
• crowbar;
• Bulgarian;
• perforator;
• electric drill;
• rubber hammer.

After your order has been delivered to you, you can begin work on preparing the surface of the opening. Clean the area near the window, cover the floor and heating devices. If necessary, the sashes are removed from the window block and the blind double-glazed windows are pulled out. To pull out a double-glazed window, first remove the vertical beads. Then remove the lower and upper beads; to put them in place, be sure to make marks. If you tilt the frame, the glass unit should come out of it on its own; carefully set it aside.

To remove the sashes from the canopies, first remove the plugs, and then unscrew the clamping bolts, then release the upper part of the opening sashes and remove the hook from the lower canopy. After such operations you will be left with a bare frame. Make at least 3 holes on each side and 2 on top and bottom for anchors with inside frames. For reliable fastening, anchors with a diameter of 8-10 mm will be sufficient.

If the window block is fastened to pre-installed fittings, then you just need to fasten it without disassembling the window, for this they use special screws that come with the kit.

Since no GOST standards stipulate that the stand profile should be filled with foam, most installers of plastic windows ignore this operation. To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge, it is necessary to fill the installation profile with foam; it is best to perform this operation one day before the installation of the window unit.

The old window must be removed on the day the new unit is installed. If you do not plan to continue using old frame, then after removing the sashes, it is filed and easily removed. After the window frame has been dismantled, it is necessary to remove the insulation and seal that is located under it to the surface of the wall, using a hammer drill it is necessary to remove part of the slopes, and the window sill is dismantled.

It is necessary to thoroughly clean the ends of the opening from dust and dirt; if the house is wooden, then a layer of waterproofing must be laid under the frame. After this, you need to take out all the garbage and you can consider that the dirty work stage is completed. At this stage preparatory work is considered completed and you can proceed directly to installation.

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Window installation and proper fastening

All gaps between walls and frame installed window filled with polyurethane foam and covered with a waterproofing film.

Substrates are laid on the lower edge of the opening, these can be wooden blocks or you can purchase ready-made plastic pads. They are installed along the edges and in the center of the frame, and the frame or the entire window assembly is supported on the backing; this will depend on the installation method you have chosen.

To secure the window on the sides, pegs are also used; they are installed along the edges so as not to cause the frame to warp. Using a water level, the window is installed horizontally, using bubble level undesirable as it has less accuracy. To install the plane vertically, a plumb line is used. After this, you can install the anchors.

If the block is fastened through a frame, then first holes are made in it using an electric drill and holes are drilled into the wall using a hammer drill. First, the window is fastened on both sides at the bottom, the correctness of its installation is checked, and then the anchors are attached at the top and in the middle. The correct installation is checked again and the anchors are tightened.

If fastening is carried out through special fasteners (ears), then they already have space for anchors. In this case, the lower part is also attached first, and then the middle and upper parts, and at each stage the correct installation is monitored.

There is a special groove in the frame for fastening the drainage system; it can be additionally attached to the frame using screws.

After installing the frame, the window is assembled, everything is done in the reverse order that it was when disassembling it. After installing a double-glazed window, first install the top and bottom, and then the side beads; this is done using rubber mallet. Install the doors and check how they open; they should not open or close on their own.

The next step is to seal the gap between the frame and the wall. Typically, polyurethane foam is used. The disadvantage of foam is that under the influence of natural factors it loses its properties, and to protect it it is necessary to create a good water barrier.

From the inside, you need to cover the foam with a special hydro-vapor barrier self-adhesive tape; it does not stick underneath. A moisture-resistant but vapor-permeable film is glued to the outside. A strip with a foil-coated surface is glued to the bottom, then it is covered with a window sill. After one edge of the film is glued to the frame, the space is filled with foam. In order for the foam to polymerize better, the surfaces must be moistened with water, then the tape is attached to the wall.

The window sill should go into the window opening and all the way into the lining profile; the window sill should go 5-10 cm into the wall and have a slight slope towards the room. The space under it is filled with foam or mortar, and the window sill is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.