To improve a site, either mortar or concrete is often needed. Kneading it by hand is difficult and time-consuming, and the quality of the solution is far from the best: it is difficult to achieve uniformity. Not everyone wants to buy a concrete mixer for periodic use. A good solution is a DIY concrete mixer. You don’t need much money; in terms of performance, homemade units are no worse than Chinese ones, and sometimes even better.

Manual concrete mixer

At a construction site there is not always electricity, and large volumes of mortar and concrete are not always required either. The solution is to make a small-volume concrete mixer that will rotate manually (with a manual drive). The designs of these models are simple and straightforward.

From a milk flask

The simplest manual concrete mixer can be made using an ordinary metal flask (milk used to be sold in these). You will also need pipe cuttings or other scrap metal. The design is simple, such a concrete mixer can be built with your own hands in a couple of hours. The main thing is to weld the frame. Assembling the concrete mixer itself will take a couple of tens of minutes.

Make a frame from round pipe bend the handle. In the upper part of the frame, weld two water couplings (for example). Their inner diameter is slightly larger diameter pipe used for the handle. The pipe is passed through the flask and welded to the body.

In order for the barrel to spin easily, you need to find the center of gravity. To do this, you can put it on some thin object, and move it forward/backward to find this very center. This is where you will need to pass the handle. Having passed the handle, it is attached to the walls of the case. This is where difficulties can arise: flasks are usually made from aluminum alloy, and the handle can be made of steel. It will not be possible to connect them by welding. The only available way out is cold welding. He is quite real. The remaining modes - with bimetallic gaskets or argon-arc welding at home - are not implemented. Another way out is to weld plates onto the handle, which are riveted to the sides of the flask.

To prevent the handle from playing too much and falling out during operation, nuts are welded to it on both sides of the coupling.

In general, this is all about making a manual concrete mixer with your own hands. For one batch in a 40 liter can you can get 2.5-3 buckets of solution. For use in a country house or on a plot near a house (without construction) it is more than enough.

If there is no can, you can adapt a barrel (thick-walled). Then the problem with welding the handle disappears, but you will have to come up with a system for fixing the lid. You can make something similar to the one that the can has.

The video shows an example of a handmade homemade concrete mixer made from a milk flask. The design is a little different, but not too different. Eat interesting idea— inside the container, dividers are welded to the pipe, which speed up mixing.

From a barrel (manual and electric)

The author called this design a “drunk barrel” because of its unique trajectory. The whole point is that the axis of rotation goes obliquely through the container. Because of this, the solution rolls over from one wall to another. The design is also simple and effective. What is important is that there are no problems with welding dissimilar metals. A drawing of a manual concrete mixer made from a barrel is shown below.

In the upper part of the frame, bearings are installed in the center, into which the handle is threaded. Thanks to them, a 200 liter barrel rotates easily. Just choose a container with thick walls - it will last longer. No additional blades are welded inside: they only retain the components, interfering with mixing and complicating unloading.

IN original design The loading/unloading hatch is located in the bottom. This is a cut-off part (about 1/3), attached with hinges to the bottom, equipped with rubber sealing around the perimeter and closed with two locks. When loading the barrel, turn it so that the hatch is at the top. When unloading, turn down. The solution moves by gravity into the substituted container, and the stuck one can be removed by knocking on the body with a hammer or sledgehammer.

This design served the author for 10 years, although it was made for a one-time job, but it turned out to be very successful: 2.5 buckets of solution are mixed well in 20-30 revolutions. During this time, it was repeated and improved by neighbors and acquaintances. Most of the modifications concerned the hatch. Experimentally, its most successful design was identified - similar to the one used in a milk flask. This “neck” is welded to the body of the barrel on one side (look at the photo above). They also make handles on both sides so that two people can work together.

This design can easily be converted into an electric homemade concrete mixer. Not very well placed powerful engine— 1 kW is enough for a 200-liter barrel, a small sprocket is attached to the axis of which, and the sprocket is welded to the axis-pipe larger size(to reduce the number of revolutions), they are connected using a chain (from a scooter, for example).

DIY electric concrete mixer from a barrel and a washing machine engine

This concrete mixer is gear type. To make this model you needed:

• galvanized steel barrel 180 liters (diameter 560 mm, height 720 mm);
• engine washing machine— 180 W, 1450 rpm;
• flywheel and starter gear from Moskvich 412;
• two pulleys from a washing machine with a diameter of 300 mm and 60 mm;
• wheels from a garden cart;
• scrap metal for the frame.

Gears, wheels - everything is old, everything was in the garage

First of all, we clean everything from rust, treat it with a rust converter and cover it with primer.

We make a frame from pipes and channels. We strengthen the corners of the frame by welding metal plates. Everything must be tough and reliable. We are making a serious crossbar: a barrel of solution will “hang” on it, and everything will vibrate and spin.

The frame is the basis of the structure. The pipes are almost new))

We weld the pins, seat under the transmission gears. We remove rust, treat it with a rust converter, and prime it.

We fasten the wheels from the cart. They have wide treads and they have justified themselves: it is not difficult to drag a concrete mixer even just across the site.

We also make structures from pipes for support and installation of all the “filling”.

The second is for greater stability

We begin to assemble the drive. First we place the large gear on the previously welded pin.

We install an assembly in the seat - a small gear connected to a wheel for a belt drive.

We attach the engine to the plate welded in advance.

We hang it so that the two wheels of the belt drive are at the same level. It is also necessary to ensure normal belt tension.

All that remains is to attach the barrel. We make a hole in the center for big pulley, drill a hole for fastening. Let's put it in place.

Only the electrical part remains. We connect the cable via

Several photos of the main components. Maybe someone needs to take a closer look.

The second transfer option is from a car disk

The barrel is 200 liters, its edges were cut, bent and welded, forming the usual “pear”.

They made a “pear” from a barrel

The car disk was bolted to the bottom (with rubber gaskets). It was selected so that a recess was formed for the belt drive. A hub was pre-attached to the disk.

Blades were welded inside the barrel to mix the solution more efficiently.

All this equipment was attached to the frame.

Where the plate is welded is the place for the engine. We set it so that the belt runs smoothly. Power was supplied through a toggle switch, and a timer from the washing machine from which the motor was removed was turned on in series.

In general, the rotation speed was 35-40 rpm. Should be enough.

Homemade mixers in video version

If you understand the general principle of how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, you can modernize and remake it, adjusting it to the existing parts. The videos collected in this section will help.

Crown type

Another option, but not a gear type, but a crown type. By the way, you can buy a crown (cast iron or plastic) and install it on the barrel.

With rollers as support

Collapsible mixer from a barrel

Photo of homemade concrete mixer units (may be useful)

Each or almost every self-made concrete mixer has some original solutions. Few people repeat the design completely without making any changes - you have to adapt to the parts and components that are available. Some interesting solutions is in the photo.

Organization of transmission using a motorcycle chain and a second belt

The shape of the blades is a complex thing. They need to improve mixing and not stop the concrete from falling down

A homemade concrete mixer made from a barrel can completely replace the factory equivalent and allow you to prepare really high-quality concrete mixture for construction. Its cost will not exceed 1000 rubles, and all materials can be found in a garage or scrap metal collection point. Now we will look at the details step by step instructions how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, we will learn all the secrets of a simple task and build a high-quality one construction tool in a few hours.

Parts and drawings of manual concrete mixer

First, let's look at what we need to make it. The main goal of our work is to build really cheap design at minimal cost, so we will use only publicly available tools and materials.

1. Barrel, aka “tub”. The simplest option is a 200-liter metal vessel, in which grain or feed is always stored in the country; a barrel for transporting petroleum products or chemicals is suitable. If you don’t have one at home, you can find one in a landfill or in any agricultural company (as a rule, they are thrown away after using oils or chemicals).
2. Thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 32 mm. We will need 2 pieces of 20 centimeters each, from which we will make bushings for the shaft. A manual concrete mixer will be without a drive and without bearings - it’s much simpler and more reliable.
3. Axis. It had to be 150 centimeters long and with a diameter of 3 cm in order to fit tightly into the bushings. For smooth operation, they can be lubricated with grease.
4. Channel 60 mm. You need 2 pieces 1 meter long (these will be the supporting elements on which the entire structure rests) and 2 pieces 50 cm long - spacers for the main supports, giving the tool maximum stability.
5. Steering wheel from a KamAZ truck or other truck. A homemade manual concrete mixer should turn easily. The larger the steering wheel you find, the better and easier it will be to work with.
6. Loops. There will be a hatch in the middle of the barrel for filling building materials, it is best made on strong hinges that can withstand any load. The hatch handle can be made from anything; the best option is a regular door handle welded to iron.
7. Metal square 20x20 mm. It is necessary for the manufacture of the “insides” of a concrete mixer from a barrel, the manufacturing process of which will be described below.

Actually, these are all the materials that we need. General drawing our simple concrete mixer will look something like this:

You also need standard tools for processing: a welding machine (basic skills) and a grinder for cutting metal. Construction will take approximately 3-4 hours if all the “ingredients” are available.

The process of making a homemade concrete mixer with your own hands

Let's start with the barrel and its insides. We need to place it on the axis, center it and make elements inside that will mix concrete as efficiently as possible and make a homogeneous mixture suitable for construction work.

STEP 1. By using welding machine or a drill, you need to make 2 holes exactly in the center of the bottom and top of the tub, thread a 30 mm metal axle through the barrel and weld everything well so that the barrel is tightly attached to the shaft.

STEP 2. Using a grinder, cut a rectangle along the barrel (90x30 centimeters) - a place to fill the building materials. You cannot make a hatch that is too small, as it will be inconvenient to pour out ready mixture. A large hole is also undesirable - it will significantly reduce the strength of the product.

STEP 3. We take a metal square and make several “blades” inside a homemade concrete mixer. One side is welded to the axle, the other to the wall of the barrel. 4-5 blades, evenly distributed over the entire area of ​​the tub, are enough.

STEP 4. We weld the cut out rectangle to the hinges, which, in turn, must be secured to the barrel to create an openable hatch. The lid lock can be made at your discretion, up to attaching a regular door hook. The main task of the lid is to prevent the mixture from falling out under its own weight, so everything must be secured firmly.

To make a manual concrete mixer with your own hands, you need to install it on a tripod, 1 meter high - optimal height for a 150-200 liter device. If you have the opportunity and desire, it is better to do it at an angle of 10-15 degrees - it will be easier to mix everything, but this is not necessary and will not affect the process significantly. Let's consider step by step process making the base.

STEP 1: We weld the frame. We take a 60 mm channel 1 meter long and weld a 50 cm long channel on one side - one support leg is ready. We weld the other support in the same way.

STEP 2: weld the bushings. A thick-walled pipe 20 cm long must be welded to the other edge of the channel. A metal axle will go into it.

STEP 3: We insert the axle into the bushings, weld thick metal washers on both ends - they will be retaining rings so that the shaft does not run away during the concrete preparation process. A do-it-yourself manual concrete mixer is already on a tripod and easily rotates along the axis; all that remains is to make a drive for it.

STEP 4: We weld the steering wheel (or its equivalent). A metal steering wheel or wheels must be welded to one edge of the axle, it makes no difference. Main - large diameter circle so that it is convenient to turn the full concrete mixer.

An electric drive for a concrete mixer will cost much more, so there is no point in spending a lot of money. Such a device should be completely sufficient for the needs of ordinary construction in a private house or country house. A manual concrete mixer made from a barrel has practically no shelf life, since the wearing parts are made of thick metal, and the bushings (provided correct use) will wear out for 5-7 years.

Do-it-yourself concrete mixer - operating tricks

The homemade design does all the work as the factory version, but it will have to be used a little differently to get maximum comfort. We'll give you a few useful tips, with the help of which a concrete mixer made from a barrel will become your favorite tool!

1. Periodically lubricate the bushings with grease. This will reduce friction and even a child will be able to spin the tub. If you don’t lubricate it for a long time, then you will soon have to make a concrete mixer out of a barrel again - the bushings or axle will wear out very quickly.
2. You can weld 1 wheel from a washing machine or a construction wheelbarrow to the spacers, if you do not yet know how to make a concrete mixer that is easy to transport around the site.
3. The greater the angle of inclination, the easier it will be to handle the equipment. The maximum permissible angle is 45 degrees; you cannot do more, since the concrete will not be mixed well.
4. The engine for the concrete mixer (if necessary) can be made from a washing machine with a gear ratio of 1:8. The flywheel can be installed instead of the steering wheel.
5. During long-term storage, it would be better to lubricate the barrel with waste so that it lasts much longer.

We looked at how to make a concrete mixer from a barrel with your own hands using minimum costs and got the design for only 650 rubles(provided you use your own old barrel). A regular 200 liter manual concrete mixer will cost at least 6,000 rubles - the benefits are obvious.

Now we offer you to watch how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands from a barrel in the video and our machine in operation:

Get a concrete mixer for home use not a problem these days - there are plenty of relatively inexpensive household models on sale. A caveat: such products are not distinguished by their capacity (only 60...100 liters) and reliability, since they are made from cheap components. It is easier for a house owner with plumbing and welding skills to make a concrete mixer of the required volume with his own hands, following our recommendations.

Selecting a mixer design

For and cooking cement mortars The following types of mechanized mixers are used in different brands:

• forced action - screw and blade;
• gravitational;
• vibration.

Forced (left) and gravitational (right) concrete mixer

Note. Vibrating type solution mixers are used in industrial scale. It is also possible to assemble a handicraft version at home - for example, from a hand hammer. But such homemade products should not be seriously considered, the reason is the low productivity of the installation.

Typically, home craftsmen make gravity and forced models of concrete mixers - it is easier to assemble components and materials available on the farm for them. Let's look at each design in more detail.

Forced action mixers

The operating principle of this construction machine is reminiscent of preparing mortar using a drill with a mixer attachment. Mixing occurs using blades or an auger installed inside a stationary cylindrical container. Drive - gear, chain or belt from an electric motor with a power of 500 W or more (depending on the size of the container).

The principle of forced mixing - the body remains stationary, only the blades rotate

The designs of forced concrete mixers may differ in a number of ways:

• position of the tub – vertical or horizontal;
• mobility - stationary installations (moved by crane or drag) or mobile models on wheels;
• unloading method - through an opening hatch or turning over a horizontal tub mounted on hinges;
• operating order – cyclic or continuous.

Reference. Household mixers are designed for cyclic operation - loading ingredients - mixing - unloading, then the cycle is repeated. Screw mixers can operate continuously - dry components are poured in on one side, and come out on the other. ready solution. An example of such a machine is shown in the drawing.

The main advantage of a forced concrete mixer is the production of a homogeneous, high-quality solution. Flaws:

• complexity of manufacturing - the body and the working part must be clearly adjusted to each other so that there are no dead zones in the corners of the container where the blades do not reach;
• preparing concrete is difficult - large and medium-sized pebbles get stuck between the walls of the tub and the blades;
• bearings homemade stirrer must be protected from the penetration of water, sand and cement.

Conclusion: the installation is perfect for plastering, finishing and masonry work, especially with the use of dry mixtures. It is also permissible to prepare concrete with fine filler - gravel, marble chips, and so on.

Gravity type machines

The simplest manual concrete mixer using the principle of natural mixing is shown in the photo. If in household will be found iron barrel 200 l and scraps of rolled metal, like this homemade design It will cost almost free - the only parts you will have to buy are bearings.

Advice. It is better to make a manually driven machine from a barrel mounted on a diagonal axis. Tested by practice: the quality of preparation of dry building mixtures and concrete is significantly improved, and the pipe passing through the tub serves as an additional solution divider.

The classic pear-shaped concrete mixer uses a combined forced-gravity principle. Cunningly shaped blades are welded from the inside of the container, passing the concrete mixture along the walls, but capturing the solution closer to the center. "Pear" rotates electric motor, the concrete is unloaded by tilting the working drum.

What are the benefits of such designs:

• the stirrer is suitable for preparing any solutions;
• ease of manufacture - the hinge elements are located outside the container and do not require sealing;
• The “pear” and the drive can be placed on a stationary or mobile frame equipped with wheels and even a tow hitch for a passenger car.

Traditional concrete mixers are inferior to forced ones in terms of speed of preparation and homogeneity of the solution, but they are superior in simplicity of design and versatility. Gravity models are more suitable for home use. An example of such a homemade product with a washing machine motor is shown in the video:

Making a mortar mixer from a barrel

To select parts for assembling a construction machine, we suggest studying its structure according to the presented drawing (the list items coincide with the positions on the sketch):

1. Mixing drum made from a 200-liter metal barrel.
2. Handle for tipping the “pear” – steel pipeØ20-26 mm.
3. Drum support rollers – 2 pcs.
4. Metal frame profile pipe cross section 50 x 30 mm, wall thickness 2.5 mm.
5. Electric motor 750…2000 rpm, power 0.5…1.5 kW.
6. Supporting swivel subframe.
7. The crosspiece of the joint is a metal strip 40 x 3 mm.
8. Intermediate pulley.
9. Main pulley.

Note. The dimensions and methods of connecting parts can be changed depending on the available materials.

Craftsmen use small wheels or ordinary rolling bearings as support rollers. Instead of a profile pipe, round pipes or angles plus channels can be used without any problems. The dimensions of the intermediate and drive pulleys are selected depending on the speed of the electric motor.

In addition to the above materials, you will need a power cable, a block of starting capacitors and an engine start/stop button.

Making a tub

Strict cylindrical shape barrels do not contribute to high-quality mixing of cement with ingredients - crushed stone, sand, expanded clay and other fillers. After mixing with water, one part of the mass sticks to the bottom, the other splashes out through the neck.

Before assembling the concrete mixer, you need to make a “pear” from the barrel:

Note. The longer you make the vertical cuts, the more narrow the pear will be. But remember - too long “petals” bend unevenly, as a result the capacity will lose correct form, axial runout will occur during rotation.

The bottom and crosspiece for the drive joint must be re-welded to the lower end of the tub. Another option is to mount the bearing race.

Frame assembly and drive device

The design of the iron frame is arbitrary, depending on the dimensions of the drum, the installation method and the available materials found. When assembling, consider the following recommendations:

• the frame must be stable and can withstand rocking and overturning of the concrete barrel;
• Weld stiffeners between the vertical posts and horizontal elements;
• It is better to make the internal rotating frame on bearings, although it is quite acceptable to use hinges on bushings;
• prepare mounting platforms for the engine and drive parts;
• if torque is transmitted by a belt, provide a sliding mount for the motor or pulley to tension / loosen it;
• place a clamp to secure the tub in an inclined position - a metal rod inserted into the holes on the rotating part will do.

Pay special attention to the calculation of the drive mechanism. The optimal speed of rotation of the “pear” is 30…40 rpm; it is not recommended to exceed or underestimate the indicated speed. The task is to match the existing electric motor with pulleys, gears or a gearbox in order to reduce the speed. We calculate the gear ratio I, then determine the dimensions of the pulleys using the equation:

I = n1/n2 = D1/D2

• n1, n2 – speed of the driving and driven pulleys, respectively;
• D1, D2 – pulley diameters.

Calculation example. There is an engine with a shaft speed of 800 rpm, the drive wheel size is 60 mm. To obtain a bucket rotation speed of 40 rpm, you need to select a driven pulley with a diameter of D2 = (800 x 60) / 40 = 1200 mm. When using chain and gear drives, you need to count the teeth of the sprockets.

Usually the driven gear size is too large. When making a concrete mixer with your own hands, the torque from the electric motor to the drum can be transmitted in different ways:

Reference. On factory models, the issue is solved in a similar way - the driven gear is embedded directly into the tub body.

After assembling the frame and installing the support rollers, the barrel is finally attached to the lower hub. All that remains is to connect the wired mechanism and assemble the power supply circuit for the mixer.

Conclusion

For the needs of a private household, a concrete mixer with a useful volume of 0.15 cubic meters is sufficient, which exactly corresponds to a 200-liter barrel. Homemade installation You can always improve it - attach wheels, a towing device, and even organize self-loading using a small conveyor. Upgrade options construction equipment often published by participants in thematic forums.

Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from Eastern Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.

Building something with your own hands is an activity that not only brings benefits, but also raises self-esteem. Such work cannot be done without concrete solutions. It can take quite a lot of time to prepare them, especially when it comes to filling paths or areas. In some cases, it does not make sense to buy a large concrete mixer for mortar for your needs. But a homemade concrete mixer from a barrel will be great solution. It will save money and allow you to rationally use the components that are on the farm. What are the methods for manufacturing such a device and assembly diagrams will be discussed in this article.

Why a concrete mixer

When you think about a concrete mixer for mortar, the question may arise as to why complicate your life and not use a drill or mixer. This is a pretty reasonable remark. But it is worth considering for what purposes these tools were originally developed. Drills are used to mix small amounts of low-viscosity solution. If used for a long time, the rotor or stator windings will easily fail. The drill is suitable for drilling holes in metal, wood, plastic and concrete. This is its primary task.

A construction mixer can really help in solving the problem of preparing a solution. Although this tool was developed for these purposes, it is more suitable for working with adhesives and cement-sand mixtures of small and medium volumes. If the task is to prepare concrete filled with crushed stone or other stone, then both the blades themselves and the engine can be damaged. All this speaks to the need for a more powerful product that can easily cope with the stated tasks.

Operating principle

The most common is the rotating concrete mixer for mortar, but in fact, this is not the only type. There are three mixing principles that are used in concrete mixers:

• independent or gravitational;
• exposure to vibration waves;
• mechanical.

The first type of solution mixing is the simplest and is rarely used in industry. It is somewhat reminiscent of throwing mortar with a shovel. But this happens inside the container. The container of the concrete mixer for the solution rotates perpendicular to the ground. Under the influence of gravity, concrete falls from the walls and is mixed. Prepare large number the solution will not be obtained in this way, because this is a rather labor-intensive task.

The second method of preparing the solution is the highest quality. It involves the presence of a motor that creates vibration waves in the solution. The container itself, in which the components of the solution are located, does not move. Although such a concrete mixer for mortar provides excellent result, but a good amount will go towards paying for electricity. This happens due to the need for a very powerful motor. Mechanical method mixing is exactly what is used in most available concrete mixers. It combines the gravity method with mixing blades.

What can be used

A homemade concrete mixer for preparing a solution makes it possible to use various components, which have long been collecting dust in the attic or backyard. Metal pipes or a corner are suitable for the frame. Large wheels from an old wheelbarrow will also be used in the concrete mixer. It’s easy to assemble a concrete mixer for mortar with your own hands from plastic or metal barrel. The latter can be purchased at a service station, where large volumes of oil are stored in them. According to the drawing, it is also easy to assemble a concrete mixer from an aluminum can that has become leaky or is simply no longer used. Several options will be discussed below. The instructions and drawings provided do not have to be used as step by step guide, looking for exactly such components. They can serve as the basis for your own project.

A homemade concrete mixer for mortar has some advantages compared to a factory one:

• repairability and availability of parts;
• ease of storage;
• comparatively lower cost;
• It’s easy to design what you need according to your needs.

If the design of a concrete mixer for mortar is assembled from available materials, then you will not have to search for components if something fails. You don’t have to hire specialists to repair a concrete mixer for mortar. You can maintain what you have collected without outside help. You may have to purchase a tiny percentage of spare parts for the concrete mixer, which means that the costs will be low compared to a factory concrete mixer. It is possible to select the parameters of a concrete mixer for mortar for a specific object of your own.

Concrete mixer without engine

This is the simplest and affordable option, which almost any master can build at home. This concrete mixer for mortar is perfect for those cases when a medium amount of mortar is required, and there is no electricity on site. To assemble such a concrete mixer you will need:

• welding machine;
• inch pipe;
• marking tool;
• metal rod for the axle;
• Bulgarian;
• 40 liter can;
• bearings.

The first step is to build a base or frame for the future concrete mixer. For these purposes, six parts with a length of 1 m are cut using a grinder. Two of them are assembled using a welding machine isosceles triangle. Two metal couplings are welded in the upper corner between the slats. They are selected with a diameter such that 2 bearings can easily be inserted into them. The lower corners of the two triangles are connected by jumpers; additionally, you can install two more jumpers between the triangles. This will result in a monolithic structure that will provide stability to the rotating can.

So that the concrete mixer for the solution does not require titanic efforts when rotating it, it is necessary to balance the can. For these purposes, you can place it sideways on a thin wall and try to find a center of gravity at which it will not tip to one side or the other. This point needs to be noted. Two holes are drilled in the walls. They should be located opposite each other. Their diameter should be 1 mm larger than the diameter of the reinforcement used as an axis. To secure the metal rod in the aluminum can, you can use flanges. They are also assembled independently.

They will require two small pieces of pipe. Its internal diameter should be slightly larger than the diameter of the axis. You also need two small circles sheet metal. The pipe sections are welded to the round pieces in the center. A hole is drilled in the round pieces so that the reinforcement can pass through. Holes with a diameter of 4.8 mm are drilled around the entire perimeter of the circle. They are necessary for fixing the flange to the can. The rounds need to be given a slight bend so that they fit snugly into the can.

The process of assembling a concrete mixer is simple. The frame is already ready. The bearings are inserted into place in the couplings. At the end of the reinforcement for the axle, a bend is made for the handle. The flanges are fixed to the can using bolts or metal rivets. The handle is threaded through the first bearing, the can and the second bearing. The can is placed in the middle. The flange pipes are welded to the axial fittings. To prevent the axle from slipping out, stoppers are placed on both sides of the bearings. A schematic drawing of a finished concrete mixer for mortar is shown in the illustration below.

Preparing a solution in this design does not cause any difficulties. It is enough to add all the components for the solution without water and twist them several times. After this, add to the solution required quantity water and finish mixing is done. Additionally, such a structure for mixing the solution can be equipped with wheels from an old tricycle to make it easier to transport. The operation of such a concrete mixer can be assessed in the video:

A similar design can be made of concrete mixers for mortar from a barrel. You will have to slightly increase the dimensions of the frame. The rod to hold the barrel must run diagonally. Then sufficient displacement of the solution will be ensured for mixing the components.

To make it easier to visualize what such a concrete mixer for preparing the mixture should look like, below is a diagram. There are no sizes on it, because they are selected individually. All components are clearly marked to aid in assembly. The frame for the concrete mixer is slightly different in the drawing. It is made in the shape of rectangles with an additional jumper. Thanks to this solution, the device for preparing the mixture is more stable.

Driven concrete mixer

The concrete mixer should automate the process of preparing the solution as much as possible. That is why it is worth thinking about how to assemble a structure using an electric drive. It's easy to make a concrete mixer from a 200-liter barrel with your own hands. To work you will need:

• inch frame pipe;
• motor from a washing machine or an old pump;
• 200 liter barrel;
• power button;
• V-belt;
• pulleys from a washing machine, large and small;
• a pair of gears from the starter.

To prevent the solution from falling out of the barrel, its top must be reduced in diameter. To do this, an incision 20 cm deep is made every 15 cm in the shape of a small triangle. After this, all the blades are bent towards the middle and boiled.

The large gear from the starter is placed on the bottom and the necessary markings are made so that later it can be secured.

A frame is assembled from a pipe or angle that will hold the barrel. You can make it according to the sample shown in the photo below. Two pieces of pipe are simply bent at an angle of 90 degrees and reinforced with a small piece of sheet metal. On bottom part the axle for the wheels is mounted. A pulley is welded onto the crossbar that will hold the barrel, onto which a large gear will subsequently be attached.

The next step is to install a pipe with bearings, into which a second pulley with a smaller gear is installed. The distance must be calculated so that the concrete mixer gears easily interact with each other. Wheels can be used from an old car or even from a Lada. But then you will additionally need hubs, which can be found at disassembly.

The motor from the washing machine is mounted at the bottom of the frame under the gears. The electrical connection is also made. A regular 6 amp starter can be used as a switch.

Lastly, the barrel is mounted in its place, which completes the entire structure. To prevent the pulley from bending under the weight during the preparation of the mixture, it is necessary to make two safety wheels that can support the barrel from the front. The illustration shows how they can be fixed.

There is another way to make a concrete mixer from a 200 liter barrel. In the design of such a unit for preparing the mixture, the unit through which rotation is transmitted from the engine to the container will be different. To assemble this option for preparing the solution you will need an unnecessary car disk. The entire internal part is cut out so that only two external ones with sides remain. A hub is attached to them, which ties them together. After this, the resulting unit is attached to the concrete mixer barrel through rubber gaskets.

Rotation will be transmitted from the motor to the smaller pulley through the belt. A wheel with a smaller diameter is attached to a smaller pulley and from it, through a belt, rotation occurs to the fixed disk.

This is what the structure looks like from the back. You can see how the main components are secured to the concrete mixer. The motor and pulleys must be adjusted in such a way that the belts move straight without distortion, as they will simply fly off.

You can use a regular automatic machine as a starter for a concrete mixer, but it’s more interesting to use a block from an old one washing machine. It has a timer. Once you launch it, you can safely work on others preparatory work. Once the concrete mixer has stopped, the solution can be used. It is important to remember that the solution cannot be left for a long period of time, because the water from it may evaporate or the solution itself will shrink and lose its viscosity.

Pay attention! Excellent concrete mixers are made from barrels that are made of stainless steel. They are more durable and neutral to the components of the solution. True, the weight of such a concrete mixer will be slightly higher.

In the drawing for assembling a concrete mixer for mortar, try to provide for the possibility of changing the angle of the barrel. To do this, the base on which the tank will rest will need to be fixed on two bearings and made movable. Another option would be to implement a stop at the front of the concrete mixer. With such a mechanism, pouring the solution out of the concrete mixer will be much easier and it will be easy to do this directly at the place where the solution is used. A video of the operation of a concrete mixer, which was made from a barrel with your own hands, can be seen below:

Advice! You can make a concrete mixer for mortar yourself not only from metal, but also from plastic barrel. To do this, you will need to select a barrel with thick walls, and also strengthen top part using a metal plate that will be secured with a ring. The amount of solution that can be prepared at once is comparatively less than in a metal concrete mixer, but the efficiency is not inferior.

Conclusion

As you can see, if you show a little ingenuity and look at what you have in your bins, you can assemble your own concrete mixer with virtually no expense. A properly assembled concrete mixer will not be inferior to a factory one in performance. In addition, it will not need to be sent for warranty repairs, and you can fix everything yourself.

A self-assembled concrete mixer helps save time and makes heavy work the job is easy. From the article you will learn what and how to make this unit yourself.

Concrete mixer: what is it for and how to assemble?

Why do you need a homemade concrete mixer? The title itself already has the answer. This is a unit that is designed to mix sand and cement with water to produce concrete. Why concrete is needed, every schoolchild knows about this today. You cannot do without this material if you are going to build a house, or, say, improve the territory - so that there is a clean yard and smooth paths.

Of course, you can arm yourself with a trough and shovel and make concrete by hand. But why do you need Sisyphean labor when you can use a special machine for this? There is no point in buying a concrete mixer if you do not intend to take on construction contracts. It is much more interesting and economical to assemble it yourself. Moreover, an old two-hundred-liter barrel will do for this purpose.

The site’s site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the required amount of concrete.

The device you end up with is reliable and easy to use. All you have to do is pour the ingredients into the drum in certain proportions and add water. The ratio of components depends on what you need the solution for. Usually, to get high-quality concrete, take one part of cement and add to it one part of sand and screenings (small pebbles). It is possible, and in some cases even necessary, to replace components sand and gravel mixture(PGS).

Homemade concrete mixer from a barrel - advantages and disadvantages

An undoubted advantage in making a concrete mixer with your own hands will be a significant saving of money on purchasing a factory model. Besides, have you seen the equipment that most sellers offer? Even if you have an extra thousand and twenty rubles, you are unlikely to want to give them for a Chinese product of dubious quality. And then, if the Chinese can do it, then why are you worse? It is not the gods who burn the pots. Your unit will serve faithfully not only to you, but also to your grandchildren.

The disadvantage here will be, especially if you are not a technician by training, the lack of experience in the manufacture of such mechanisms. But if you are persistent and love to tinker, you will certainly succeed. Good, necessary details literally lying under your feet. Of course, they won’t come to you on their own. You will have to rummage through a pile of scrap metal in a garage or even a junkyard.

But don't be so scared. To make a concrete mixer at home you will need: a container (in your case old barrel), in which the process of mixing the solution will take place, an axis of rotation, an electric motor (if you are not going to rotate the drum by hand) and a frame for the base on which all this will be attached. As you can see, everything ingenious is simple. You will learn how to prepare and what tools you will need to realize your idea in the next section of this article.

Preparation and tools

Before you start working on a concrete mixer, you need to make a drawing or at least a sketch of the future project and prepare the workspace. A garage or shed is best suited for this. The main thing is that electricity is supplied to it, because in this case you will need power tools. And the work with metal itself is quite noisy and dirty. Agree that a comfortable apartment is not the place where you can engage in such creativity.

Well, the drawing is ready, and you have prepared the place: you have removed everything that is not relevant. Now let's see what tools you need. If you don’t know this craft and will assemble the entire structure with bolts, you won’t need a welding machine. But you definitely can’t do without a drill. You will also need a set of screwdrivers and a hacksaw. And, of course, the main part of the future concrete mixer is a two-hundred-liter barrel.

It would be great if the bottom of the container was non-removable. Otherwise, it may simply fall off during the process of mixing the solution. The frame can be made from metal corner. It is more convenient than pipes when connecting with bolts. You can install a gasoline engine or a motor from a drill-mixer as a motor that sets the torque. The main thing is that its power is at least 1.3 kW. And don’t forget to think about and install paddles inside the barrel for the most effective mixing of the components.

Important: the top lid of the barrel must have reliable fastening, otherwise you risk covering the entire area with concrete.

In addition, even at the development and preparation stage, think about what kind of future concrete mixer you want to see - mobile on wheels or stationary. Then you won’t have to hastily adjust the drawings and make changes to the almost finished design. If you have everything ready, then you can start the most interesting part - making a concrete mixer with your own hands.

How to make a concrete mixer - let's start making it

Let's look at the key stages of the work.

1. We assemble the frame of the future unit. It must be durable, because it will have to withstand enormous loads. Best suited for the base steel angle 130 mm. Since we decided to do without a welding machine, it wouldn’t hurt to tell us which bolts to choose for assembling the frame. The best option There will be bolts with a diameter of 27 mm. The angle of inclination of the barrel to the base should be 35 degrees. If you have not found a suitable motor, you can make the drive manual. Of course, you will have to make some effort, but it will still be better than mixing concrete with a shovel in a trough.
2. Before placing the barrel on the gearbox (a device that converts high angular velocity rotation of the input shaft to a lower one on the output shaft), you need to attach, say, a ring gear (a hardened steel disk with teeth) from a Volga engine to its bottom. Practice has shown that it is optimally suited for this purpose: it is made of hardened metal and has teeth on the outside.
3. If there is welding, then attaching the crown is as easy as shelling pears. But we decided to assemble the concrete mixer without using a welding machine. Therefore, we will attach the crown to the bottom of the barrel with bolts. Turn the barrel upside down and attach the crown to the bottom. Make marks on the bottom of the barrel with a core (a special rod with a sharpened end). Simply insert the core into the hole in the crown sharp end and hit the blunt with a hammer. Then remove the crown and drill holes using a drill strictly according to the marks made with the core. Place the crown back on the bottom of the barrel so that the holes line up. Insert the bolts and tighten the nuts on them using wrenches.
4. We put the gearbox on the frame. We do the same as with the crown. We mark the place for the holes on the frame with a core, drill, bolt the gearbox to the frame, and install the barrel itself on it, first not forgetting to make blades in it in order to. Making them is also easy. You can simply fasten three corners along the length of the barrel with bolts at an equal distance from each other. We replace the small gear pulley with a suitable gear. This is what will set the heavy container of concrete in motion. In order not to suffer for a long time and not to reinvent the wheel, the small gear can be taken from the Bendix starter (Bendix is ​​the starter armature shaft) of the same Volga.

The most important part of the whole machine is the engine. It must be securely attached to the bracket on the frame.

To tip a barrel of concrete, a steering wheel is suitable, not just a handle. Making it is not that difficult. Essentially, you can take a sleeve (a piece of pipe) and screw the rods into it radially. Then put it on the additional gearbox and secure it. But if such a design causes difficulties in developing drawings, then you can simply take the prepared solution from the container with a shovel. Just remember to turn it off first and wait for it to stop.

Even though you will assemble the apparatus yourself to help mix concrete, this does not mean that you can neglect basic safety rules. Yes, they have already set everyone’s teeth on edge, and yet, traumatology statistics show that not everyone follows them. Remember them well, or better yet, write them in bright paint on your concrete mixer:

• Do not, under any circumstances, climb inside a spinning barrel.
• If you have assembled a unit with an electric drive, make sure that the power cord is in good condition.
• Keep small children away from even a non-working machine.
• If you have made a mobile structure, put a support under the wheels before you start using it.
• When mixing concrete, strong vibrations occur. Therefore, monitor the condition of the screw connections and tighten them in time.
• If possible, wear work gloves or gloves. Cement can cause an allergic reaction to the skin of your hands.
• And never leave switched on equipment unattended.

Remember that you are responsible for your health and the safety of those around you! So, making a concrete mixer with your own hands is not at all difficult. The main thing in this matter is the presence of everyone necessary tools, materials and, of course, desire. But you will have an inexpensive and excellent tool that can be useful to you more than once. By the way, you can rent out your concrete mixer to your neighbors and get a good increase in your salary from this.