A chest of drawers is a very popular piece of furniture that has not gone out of fashion for several centuries in a row. Its design changes depending on the interior styles, but the essence still remains the same - comfortable to use, compact but spacious cabinet with a worktop on top.

To answer the question of how to make a chest of drawers with your own hands, first of all you need to decide what height and width it should be, as well as how many drawers the owners need. Therefore, first of all, a sketch or drawing is made, in which all dimensions are affixed, taking into account the space that can be allotted for such a cabinet cabinet. On the basis of the developed drawing, calculations are made of the amount of necessary materials, their purchase is carried out.

The chest of drawers can be made of natural wood or chipboard. High-quality wood and its processing will certainly cost more than a wood composite, but it is not only an environmentally friendly material, but also more durable than a pressed board made of chips and glue.

If set, the task is to make a really beautiful and comfortable piece of furniture, it is very important to choose high-quality material and make from it, exactly in size, all the details, which then need to be well, smooth, processed and adjusted to each other.

However, the first step is to choose a dresser model, depending on its purpose and the height of the owner, so that both spaciousness and ease of use are combined.

Find out and also read the illustrative instructions in the article on our portal.

Common models of chests of drawers

Chests of drawers are made in various versions, depending on the purpose of their use. And in order to make the right choice, it is advisable to consider several models.

Standard linen chest of drawers

Traditional chests of drawers have always been designed to store linen and small items of clothing. Unlike massive cabinet designs, they occupy a small area and look quite aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, this piece of furniture is quite popular today.

"Classic" type of linen chest of drawers

Its convenience lies in the compact storage of various things separately from each other, which makes it easy to find them. A chest of drawers for linen can be equipped with a different number of drawers having a design width, they can be from two to six, but there are other models that provide a larger number of smaller drawers.

And, of course, the countertop also becomes a “usable area”, where items of decoration for the interior of the room ask for.

chest of drawers

Chests of drawers can have a different shape and height. Since the hallway usually has a small area, a compact, narrow and tall version of the pencil case is more suitable for it, which is also quite roomy.

It can store multi-season shoes, various care products, as well as hats and scarves. For all these items, one way or another, it is necessary to find a place, and such a convenient piece of furniture as a chest of drawers-pencil case may well become it.

Chest of drawers for a children's room

A chest of drawers for a children's room can be called a necessity, as it can replace several pieces of furniture at once. A special design has been developed with a hinged panel that opens when necessary and closes so as not to interfere with the use of drawers.

In such a chest of drawers, you can accommodate a large number of children's accessories and items necessary for the baby, distributing them into drawers. Since this piece of furniture is quite compact, it will not clutter up the space of the children's room, which is very important for the child.

This furniture accessory will not become superfluous even when the baby grows up, since not only clothes, but also toys can be stored in a chest of drawers. If the wardrobe was originally finished in delicate pastel children's shades, then as the child grows up, it can be repainted in other, more "adult" colors.

Chest of drawers with an open shelf for the living room or bedroom

This chest of drawers is perfect for the living room. You can install a TV on it, and use open cabinets to store books that you want to have at hand. In the closing drawers, various little things are perfectly hidden, which are always quite a lot in any house.

In the bedroom, this chest of drawers will be an excellent bedside table, suitable for storing linen, installing a night lamp and other accessories often used in this room.

A similar design is quite suitable for the bathroom, but in this case, for its manufacture, it is necessary to choose natural wood, which is to be treated with moisture-repellent compounds.

From the information on how many functions this piece of furniture is capable of performing, and how comfortable it is to use, a logical conclusion suggests itself that a chest of drawers can be considered a necessity for most houses and apartments. If you have a desire to make it yourself, then before starting work, you must definitely familiarize yourself with the technology of the process in order to be able to realistically assess your own strengths.

An example of the preparation, processing of parts and the manufacture of a chest of drawers

The quality and appearance of the finished product will directly depend on how accurately the parts are made and processed, so first you need to consider the nuances of this process.

chest of drawers floor

Parts for each model are made according to a specific drawing, and their connections may vary. The table below shows the various points in the processing of wooden parts and the assembly of the chest of drawers, which very often raise questions. By the way, the given example can also be considered as a “role model” by adjusting the shown dresser model to fit your size.

The chest of drawers shown in the table is made of natural board and timber 20 mm thick, using plywood inserts 10 mm thick.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The edges of the board must be perfectly even, for this they are cut off, processed on a jointer.
	It is even better if you have a thicknessing machine at your disposal, passing through which the boards acquire an ideally accurate size in thickness. You can, of course, carry out this process manually, but it will take much more time and effort. So it makes sense to contact the carpentry workshop to obtain blanks.
	To obtain solid panels from boards, they are glued together and pulled together in clamps, leaving in this position until the glue dries completely. In order not to damage the wood with clamps, the assembled panel is covered with a beam, and clamps are already installed on it and tightened.
	Grooves and spikes in the bars are cut using a router with a special nozzle. The machine can be professional stationary or manual, but the skill of working with it will be needed in any case.
	The illustration shows the connection of two bars according to the "groove-thorn" principle. In this way, frames are assembled, of which, in some designs, the frame for drawers consists.
	The connection of the frame bars is carried out on carpentry glue and must be pulled together in clamps until completely dry.
	The frame during its assembly must be constantly checked for evenness of right angles. This is done with a square and a measurement of the diagonals.
	To check the rectangularity of the structure and the subsequent high-quality drying of the connecting nodes, the frame is placed in a special template assembled from plywood and timber, fixed exactly at a right angle. Having straightened the frame according to the template, one thin nail is driven into its joints at an angle.
	In the side walls, which are made from boards previously glued into shields and dried, a groove is cut along the edge with a milling cutter - the so-called quarter. It will help to connect the parts more tightly, which will make the structure more rigid.
	Then, grooves are marked and cut out on the side walls, into which the support frames for the boxes will be glued. The grooves are cut with a milling cutter and trimmed with a chisel. The beginning of the groove should be located at a distance of 15 mm from the edge of the panel.
	In order for the frame to fit snugly into the groove, corners are cut off on it, equal in size to the depth of the groove and the distance of its distance from the edge, in this case - 15 mm.
	Further, the grooves are smeared with glue, and the frames are tightly installed in them.
	The upper frame, mounted on glue in a quarter cut along the edge of the side panels, is additionally fixed with nails or thin self-tapping screws in increments of 100 ÷ 120 mm.
	The illustration shows the fixation of frames on the structure.
	When the glue in the structure dries, it is turned and laid down with the front side. When turning, the structural elements may shift somewhat, so the squareness must be checked by measuring the diagonals. They, of course, should have the same length.
	The next step is to cut out the back wall of the structure from 10 mm thick plywood, its edges are processed. Then it is laid in the selected quarters of the side panels. The sheet is fixed to the walls with cloves or self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be sunk into the wood. Then, the chest of drawers is lifted and placed on the bottom panel.
	In this model, the space between the two upper frames must be divided to accommodate two drawers. For this, the middle of the front part of the chest of drawers is determined, and a vertical section of the board is installed in this place. Such a jumper will not only become a separating element, but will also make the structure more rigid. The partition is fixed in the desired marked place with self-tapping screws through the upper and lower frame, with the obligatory pre-drilling of thin holes for fasteners in order to prevent cracks.
	Next, you can proceed to the manufacture of drawers. The most difficult thing in this process is the jagged connection of the corners, which will be almost impossible to form manually, so you cannot do without a machine with a special milling nozzle.
	Before starting to cut the teeth, a quarter is cut into the boards along the edge for the exact joining of the two panels. They are fixed in a special clamp located along the edge of the workbench. One board is laid horizontally, the other vertically, butt to each other in the selected quarter. The edges of the boards are shifted relative to each other by a tooth step. Then they are clamped on top with a template, according to which cutouts will be made.
	Cuts are made by a milling cutter with a cutter of the selected configuration intended for this process - straight or dovetail.
	In this photo, you can see that the connecting teeth are cut with a cutter simultaneously on one and the other board. Thus, after it is turned over from the connected panels of the panel, and the edges are aligned, the teeth and grooves should fit perfectly together.
	In addition to spikes, for corner joints, before assembling the structure, grooves are selected by a router in all three boards-walls of the box and in the front wall, into which the plywood bottom panel will be installed.
	The next step is to assemble the walls of the box. The teeth of the tenon joint are aligned with each other and gently tapped with a wooden hammer.
	After that, the bottom part is pushed into the grooves of the walls, and then the front part of the box is also installed.
	Next, the evenness of the corners is controlled - for this, the diagonals of the box are measured. Then the plywood bottom is fixed to the front board of the box with studs.
	Then, a front panel is fixed to the front wall of the box, to which, in turn, the selected handles are screwed.
	If you plan to raise the chest of drawers on legs connected by an arcuate jumper, as shown in the illustration, then for the convenience of marking, you should first make a template.
	To make the legs, three boards are first fastened at the corners with a serrated (spike) joint. Then, on the front board, markings are made according to the template. Further, the two arcs are connected by a straight line, which is drawn along the ruler (along the horizontal level).
	By the same principle, and using the same template, markings are made on the sides of the base.
	Then, neat cuts are made along the marked lines with a jigsaw, and then their edges are processed.
	When the legs are cut out and connected, a bar is glued along the upper edge of the resulting structure, and then a bar is screwed with screws, which will create the necessary platform for installing a chest of drawers with an internal frame on top of it.
	Further, the upper edge of the stand for the chest of drawers needs to be ennobled - for this it is processed using a figured cutter.
	Then, the chest of drawers is turned over again so that the legs can be fixed to the lower frame. The design of the legs is planted first on the glue, and then screwed on with self-tapping screws.
	From the back of the chest of drawers, a triangular scarf is glued to the legs, and then a triangular scarf is screwed, with a cutout made in its lower part for a beam, fixed on the side legs.
	The top edge is screwed to the side leg, and the bottom edge to the frame frame. This ensures the rigidity of the design of the chest of drawers.
	The next step is to cut and fit the countertop. In the frame, under it, the places are marked where holes will be made and countersunk, through which the panel will be fixed to the frame frame and sidewalls with the help of dowels inserted into it.
	Further, the tabletop is fixed on the upper frame of the structure from below, with self-tapping screws having a length of 5 mm less than the total thickness of the tabletop board and the frame under it.
	The table top panel can be processed in advance or after it is fixed on the chest of drawers - the edges of the boards on both sides are rounded with a cutter and polished to perfect smoothness.
	If the product is planned to be left in its natural form, without staining, then, if desired, you can select the texture of wood using a special brush with a metal bristle.
	If it is planned to carry out staining or varnishing, then this process is carried out in several layers with water-based compositions.

In this example, an assembly was demonstrated with joints that have traditionally been used for the manufacture of various cabinets from natural wood for a long time. But, it should be noted that such operations are amenable only to experienced craftsmen, armed, to everything, with a special professional-class tool. However, in our time, the task can be simplified if you purchase various fasteners, which are presented in a large assortment in furniture fittings stores.

"Classic" chest of drawers with six drawers

This version of the chest of drawers is made of boards and plywood with a thickness of 19 (20) mm; in its manufacture, you can safely rely on the instructions given in the table above.

Construction details

For the manufacture of this model of chest of drawers, the following materials and parts will be required:

the name of detail	Part size, mm	Quantity, pieces
Details for making the chest of drawers
Foundation facade (board)	90×89×787	1
Back of base (board)	19×89×445	1
Base sidewalls (board)	19×89×445	2
Base beam (board)	32×32×89	4
Base apron facade	19×64×800	1
Sidewalls of the base apron (board)	19×64×470	2
Back plank of base apron (board)	19×64×673	1
Sidewalls (plywood)	19×432×1029	2
Back wall (plywood)	19×743×1029	1
Front and rear support rails for drawers	19×89×743	12
Side rails for drawers	19×89×235	12
Front apron bar	19×89×724	1
Back apron bar	19×89×572	1
Side planks of the apron	19×89×337	2
Front frame posts	19×38×1029	2
skids	6.4×19×425	6
Crossbars of the front frame	19×38×686	7
Corner braces	19×89×89	4
Lid	19×470×800	1
Details for making boxes
Decorative facades	19×146×711	6
Side walls	19×114×419	12
Front walls	19×114×654	6
Back walls	19×101×654	6
Bottom (plywood)	19×406×654	6
Guide rails	6.4×19×419	12

And this table shows the connecting and fitting elements necessary for assembly:

Name of elements	Element size, mm
Countersunk screws	6×44
Wooden dowels	6.4×31.8
Countersunk screws	6×19
Finishing nails	22
wood screws	64
Finishing nails	55
Countersunk screws	6×32
Handles - optional	12 pcs.

Chest base

Drawing No. 2 - assembly of the base of the chest of drawers.

• Details for the base of the chest of drawers are made according to the dimensions given in the table and on the drawing. The front and side elements that form the legs in this model have curvilinear shapes, so they are marked according to the template and cut out with a jigsaw. This process is described in detail and shown in the table above. Curly cutouts are made only from the front and sides of the base, while the back panel consists of a whole board.
• The assembly of finished elements is carried out on corner bars. The bars are glued to the front edges of the side panels and to the edges of the back plank. They are then fixed flush to the panels with countersunk screws.
• Further, the rear edges of the sidewalls are smeared with glue and fixed on the bars screwed to the back bar, and also twisted.
• The facade of the base is glued to the bars of the sidewalls and screwed last.
• When the base is assembled, it must be pulled together in clamps and the evenness of the corners should be checked with a square and by measuring the diagonals.
• A frame called an apron should be laid on the base. Four planks are cut to size to form a frame, one side of the planks is processed with a cutter, giving a semicircular shape to the edge of the board. Then, the edges of the planks, from which the front part of the apron will be formed, are cut off at an angle of 45 degrees.
• Finished parts must be fixed to the base with glue. Glue is applied to the end of the base elements and corner bars. Further, strips are laid alternately on the glued surface. Their ends at the corners are also smeared with glue, and after that the apron is pressed against the base with clamps until the glue dries completely.

Frame manufacturing

While the glue on the base will dry, you can start assembling the frame.

Drawing No. 3 - Side wall of the chest of drawers.

• From the prepared plank boards, the sidewall panels of the structure are cut to the specified dimensions. Then, marking is made, based on the presented drawing, and a fold is selected at the edges of the parts, and then the grooves in which the support frames for the boxes will be installed. How these works are carried out is also shown and described in the first table.

The back wall is made of plywood according to the specified dimensions.

Drawing No. 4 - assembly of support frames for chest of drawers.

• Next, the frames are made, which will become supports for the boxes. Planks are cut from the board, corresponding to the given dimensions. Finished parts are assembled into a single structure with the help of dowels, which are planted on glue - how this is done can be clearly seen in the drawing and in the table. The lower support frame is attached to the apron slats, and the remaining drawer frames consist only of support parts. Having assembled the frame for glue, its diagonals are measured and compared, and then the structure is pulled together with clamps. In the middle of the assembled frame, with the help of 19 mm screws with countersunk heads, the skid is fixed.
• The next step in the grooves cut out in the sidewalls, the support frames for the boxes are installed on the glue. They are pushed into the space of the grooves so that they are flush with the front edges of the side panels.
• Having installed all the frames in the grooves of the sidewalls, you need to fix the back wall of the chest of drawers, which will give the structure rigidity. The plywood wall is attached to the sidewalls with glue, and then fixed with finishing nails, 22 mm in size.

Mounting the frame on the base

• The next step is to attach the chest of drawers to the base apron. Work must be done carefully and only after the glue has completely dried, in order to prevent the structure from skewing.
• The frame is installed on the base apron, and its back wall must be placed flush with the base. From the front part and on the sides of the structure, the apron should protrude 19 mm relative to the sidewalls of the frame. After fitting and making markings on the apron, the frame is removed from it. After that, glue is applied to the apron according to the marking, then the frame is put in place and fixed to the apron with screws 64 mm long.

Mounting the front frame

• Side and transverse planks of the facade frame are made from the board, according to the dimensions given in the table. The connection of these parts is carried out with the help of dowels, which are planted on glue.
• The distance between the crossbars should be 165 mm, as they will later be fixed to the front end side of the support frame for the drawers. After the frame is ready, it is fixed to the sidewalls and frames with glue and nailed with finishing nails 50 mm long.

chest of drawers

• The tabletop for the chest of drawers is cut to the specified dimensions from well-crafted boards glued together into a shield. The edges of the shield are processed with a semicircular cutter - they must match the appearance of the edge of the apron of the chest of drawers.
• Further, in the upper corners of the frame, corner struts are installed, which are rectangles. Two holes for 32 mm screws are drilled in them, which are countersunk and expand to an ellipse shape. Spacers are fixed in the corners of the frame with glue and screws.
• After the glue has dried, you can mount the countertop on top of the frame. It is laid so that its back side is flush with the back wall of the frame, and the overhangs of the front and sides equally extend beyond it.
• The tabletop is fixed from below, it is fixed through the holes countersunk in the spacers with 32 mm screws. Glue is not used when mounting this panel, since it must be able to move slightly in countersunk holes when the temperature and humidity in the room change.

Dresser drawers

Drawing No. 5 - assembly of drawers of a chest of drawers.

• The walls of the boxes are made from prepared processed boards according to the dimensions given in the table.
• In the lower part of the walls, grooves are cut into which the bottoms of boxes made of plywood are pushed in.
• In this model of chest of drawers, the walls of the drawers are connected at the corners not with toothed tenon joints, but with the help of groove cuts, as shown in the drawing. The walls of the beginning are fastened with glue, and then tightened with self-tapping screws. After the back wall is connected to the side walls, the bottom is installed, and then the front wall of the box is mounted.
• Next, it is necessary to process the front panel, which is fixed to the front wall of the box. To do this, its edges are processed, which will round the corners of the board. The front panel is first fixed with glue, and then screwed with 32 mm self-tapping screws from the inside of the box. Before attaching the handles to the drawers, their location is marked, and holes are drilled at the necessary points through which mounting screws or screws are screwed into the handles from the inside of the drawer.
• After the box is almost completely ready, on the outside of its bottom, in its middle, two guides are fixed at a distance of 22 mm from each other. These parts are fixed with glue and pressed with clamps until completely dry. After that, the box is tested. It is installed so that the frame skid is located between the two drawer rails. If there are problems with the easy movement of the box, then you need to grind the skid or guides, slightly expanding the distance between them.

There are six such drawers for this model, and, when assembling each of them, it is necessary to try on, installing them in the chest of drawers. You need to make sure that they not only move freely along the skid, but also fit together beautifully.

After the final assembly and installation of the boxes, you can proceed to the finishing operations.

Chest of drawers with five drawers

Such a model of a chest of drawers can be made of natural wood or chipboard. If you plan to install this piece of furniture in a children's room or bedroom, then it is best to choose well-crafted boards for manufacturing.

The design of this version of the chest of drawers differs from the previous one in that the drawers are equipped with modern metal guides, which eliminates the rather complicated process of manufacturing and assembling frame support frames.

To make this version of the chest of drawers, you will need to make the following parts, based on this drawing:

the name of detail	Part size, mm	Quantity, pieces
Tabletop (lid) chest of drawers	900×530×15	1
Mounter (support under the cover)	858×80×10	2
Base	858×500×10	1
sidewall	784×500×15	2
plinth	858×50×10	1
small box front	442×181×15	2
Front of the big box	886×64×15	3
Side walls of the drawer	450×131×15	10
Front and back wall of the small box	364×131×15	4
Back wall of the big box	801×131×15	6
Dividing panel between small drawers	484×164×15	1
Rear panel for fixing the partition panel and support rail. But, if the back wall is made of plywood, then this element in the design is not needed.	858×164×15	1
Small drawer bottom (Fibreboard)	448×394×15	2
Big drawer bottom (Fibreboard)	448×831×15	3
The back wall of the chest of drawers (plywood or fiberboard)	732×888×10	1
Pens	On your own	8
guide	450	10 sets

The cabinet is assembled in the following sequence:

• On the sidewalls of the chest of drawers cut to size, the markings of the places are made:

- where the grooves for installing the bottom part will be cut;

- installation flush with the walls of the support strips under the countertop;

- cut the rear lower corner under the plinth so that the chest of drawers can be installed close to the wall;

- lines for fixing the guide boxes are made according to the drawing below and the table with dimensions:

Designation on the drawing	Required size, mm
N-1	160
N-2	343
N-3	526
N-4	693
N-5	144

• Next, grooves are cut out according to the markings.
• After that, all the elements are cut out according to the sizes indicated in the table - a chest of drawers will be assembled from them. This is a bottom panel, two support strips, a back wall of the structure, a plinth strip and a dividing piece that is installed between two small drawers.
• Guides are fixed along the marking lines on the sidewalls.
• The bottom panel slides into the lower grooves to the rear edge.
• On top of the sidewalls from the front and rear edges, support strips are laid and fixed in the grooves. After their installation, the structure will receive sufficient rigidity for further work.
• Further, the back wall is closed with plywood. It is screwed with screws or nailed.
• Now you need to find the middle of the support strips and the back wall, since a dividing panel with drawer guides fixed on it on both sides will be fixed along this line. It is fixed through the support strips and the back wall with self-tapping screws.
• The next step under the bottom panel in the front part, between the side walls, is a base plate. It can be fixed on metal corners by installing them from the inside, or with the help of dowels, hammering them through the side walls.
• From above, the entire structure is covered with a tabletop, which must be laid flush with the back wall, and the front and side overhangs must have the same width.
• Next, all the details for the boxes are made. They are assembled according to the same principle as in the previous version, but with the exception of the roller guides installed on their side walls, which are mounted according to the drawing.

Chest of drawers with a table for baby changing

This chest of drawers can be called multifunctional, as it will serve young parents not only for storing a large number of baby clothes, but also as an excellent place for massage, dressing or gathering the child for a walk, as well as an ironing surface. All these functions become feasible thanks to the fixing of the sides and the folding part on the tabletop, with the help of which the horizontal surface of the chest of drawers becomes almost twice as large.

chest of drawers Standard

For the manufacture of this chest of drawers model, which has a total size of 960 × 600 × 450 mm, it will be necessary to manufacture the following parts:

the name of detail	Part size, mm	Amount
Table top (cover)	600×460×15	1
Rear railing for table top	100×555×15	1
Side railing	100×410×15	2
Folding side bar	100×380×15	2
Hinged lid	600×265×15	1
Side panel	800×430×15	2
Tension bar	75×563×15	2
Rear wall (prefabricated, plywood)	735×295×10	2
Drawer front	177×595×15	4
Drawer side wall	100×400×15	8
Back wall of the drawer	100×505×15	4
Drawer bottom	535×400×10	4
Roller guides	400 mm	4 sets
Decorative handle	-	8
Connecting bar	-	1
thrust bearing	-	4
Euroscrews (confirmations)	7×50	28
Screw	3.5×16	32
Screw	3.5×30	8
Shkant	8×35	16
Nails	35	50÷70
Eccentric with stem	d-25	2

How to make the details of the chest of drawers and assemble them into a common design has already been described above. In this model, as in the previous one, the movement of drawers is carried out using metal roller guides fixed on the walls of the box and on the sides of the drawers.

Therefore, in this case, it is only necessary to focus on the manufacture and installation of elements that are not in any of the models described above - these are side slats and a folding table design.

According to the given drawings, side railings and folding rails are made. The side edges of the parts are marked along the marked radius and cut with a jigsaw.

According to the dimensions indicated in the table, the tabletop, the hinged lid and the rear wall of the fence are cut out. All parts must be well processed with a milling cutter, rounding their ends.

Before installing the countertop on the chest of drawers, a stationary enclosing and folding structure is mounted on it.

To connect the back and side walls, grooves are cut along the vertical edges of the back wall. Side strips are glued into them and additionally fixed with self-tapping screws on the back side, which will be installed permanently. Then, this design is fixed along the edges of the countertop with glue and dowels.

While the glue dries, the folding part of the table is made. To do this, on the edges of the folding panel, the places where the strips will be fixed are marked. When closed, the hinged panel must completely cover the side and back wall mounted on the worktop. Therefore, before installation, you need to carefully measure the place where the fixing screw will be installed.

Having determined this point, holes are drilled in the side and folding bar, into which a screw with a mortise countersunk nut is installed - an eccentric, which allows the hinged structure to open and close freely. After that, the folding part of the chest of drawers is tested, and if everything went well, the countertop can be mounted on a ready-made assembled box.

The tabletop is installed on top of the box walls and fixed with the help of dowels glued into the ends of the sidewalls.

Drawers are assembled according to the same principle as in the previous chest of drawers, and the details for them are made according to the dimensions shown in the table.

Find out how by exploring a few options in our article.

It is impossible to call the manufacture and assembly of a chest of drawers a simple process, since all its parts must be manufactured and processed with the utmost precision. To do this, of course, you need at least minimal experience in working with woodworking tools. However, everything can be learned. And if you have a great desire to start working with wood in order to make various pieces of furniture from it, you should try your hand at this exciting craft.

And in conclusion - a very interesting video in which, albeit unprofessional, but still the master really shares his secrets and conducts a detailed analysis of the mistakes he made in the manufacture of the chest of drawers.

Video: do-it-yourself chest of drawers - "debriefing"

A chest of drawers is a very comfortable and functional piece of furniture. Its main advantage is that it allows you to store many different things without taking up much space. The disadvantage is the high cost of factory-made products. Not every person has the opportunity to allocate money for the purchase of such furniture. But everyone can figure out how to do it. This piece of furniture may have a different shape and size, but the manufacturing technology remains the same in any case.

Preparing to create

Making a chest of drawers with your own hands begins with its design. Before making a calculation, determining the appropriate size of the tabletop, collecting drawers, etc., you need to choose a place to install the chest of drawers. Take a good look around your room. Examine the design of the skirting boards, see if there are switches, sockets and other things on the wall that need to be taken into account when choosing the size of the chest of drawers. It is important that he does not close anything and nothing prevents him from using it.

Figure 1. Dresser option.

Next, you need to choose the size of the chest of drawers. The most convenient is a chest of drawers with a width of 80-130 cm and a height of 80-85 cm. The best chest of drawers is one that you would be comfortable using. If you can't figure out what your chest of drawers should look like, visit your nearest furniture store. Surely you will like something, and in the future you will be able to focus on the model you like.

Most often, home craftsmen make chests of wood. It is relatively cheap and easy to process material. If you have never had to make furniture with your own hands before, opt for a wooden chest of drawers.

Next, you will need to create a project for your homemade chest of drawers. To do this, you can use special computer programs or draw it on paper. The main task at this stage is to determine what parts the chest of drawers will consist of. Next, you will need to create a drawing. You can use the diagram in Fig. one.

Drawing is a must. If you can still do without a project, then you won’t be able to work without a drawing.

The drawing must show at least a side or top and front view.

It will be better if you can draw it in a section. Be sure to include the dimensions of each piece. This will allow you to see how all the details will stand, where indents are needed, etc. When drawing up a drawing, it is recommended to focus on the following dimensions:

• thickness of wood or slabs - 1.6 cm;
• the distance between the extreme parts of the drawers and the back wall of the homemade chest of drawers is at least 1 cm;
• a gap of 3 mm must be added to the dimensions of inset facades, i.e. 1 mm for each individual end.

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Tools and materials

Figure 2. Marking the sidewall.

This page contains a small selection of drawings with dimensions that can be used for things.

Why do you need a dresser at all?

In order to free up as much space as possible in the room, to make it spacious and tidy, things in the apartment should always be in their places. At the same time, I want to have quick and convenient access to these things.

You can use the mouse wheel to zoom in or out on an object. The "ESC" key turns off the "Segment" tool.

Important Clearances

• The gap between the facades is 3 mm minimum (that is, when you measure the size of the facade (both in length and width), immediately subtract from the dimensions (which will turn out in the drawing) 3 mm for the gap, and 1 mm from each end on edge (this is if you are going to glue a 1 mm edge), and write down the resulting length and width in detailing.
• Edge clearance, thickness 1mm=1mm (2mm=2mm etc.)
• Thickness - 13 mm (there is an indent on the drawings)
• Fiberboard (back wall and bottom of drawers) - 1 mm less on each side

The material structure is always located along the length of the part.

We also immediately write down what fasteners and accessories we need.

How to assemble a chest of drawers based on the drawing

To do this, you need to know the places for attaching parts and accessories (what, at what distance and from what to fasten). If you are near the computer, then you can immediately look at the distances on the drawing using the same “Segment” tool in the Compass program.

A chest of drawers in the house is a practical and multifunctional piece of furniture. Currently, due to the availability of a variety of materials for sale, furniture can not only be purchased ready-made, but also made independently. This will significantly save money, because furniture made by oneself will cost several times cheaper than purchased in a store. And also in this way you can design products that are fully consistent with your preferences and the overall interior of the room.

A chest of drawers is a piece of furniture that can be placed in any room of the home. The predecessor of the chest of drawers was an ordinary chest, but it had some inconvenience of operation. This caused the transformation of the chest, the formation of some new elements in it, as a result of which such a piece of furniture as a chest of drawers appeared. It was a small cabinet with two doors and drawers. Over time, the design improved and chests of drawers with a mirror or chests of drawers began to appear. Today it is a versatile roomy piece of furniture used to store a wide variety of items.

It organically looks both in the setting of the living room, and in the nursery, bedroom or hallway. At the same time, a chest of drawers is a functional place for storing things, where you can conveniently place perfumes, books, shoe care products, cosmetics, clothes and other necessary things. This design will ensure order wherever you put it.

Materials for the manufacture of chests of drawers are varied:

• wood;
• different metals;
• stone;
• glass.

Development of the project and drawing

1. Designing a future piece of furniture should begin with determining the place where it will be placed.
2. It is necessary to measure the dimensions of the required space, and in addition to this, take into account the placement of sockets, switches, baseboards. The chest of drawers must be placed so that these objects do not interfere with its functioning.
3. After that, you should determine the dimensions of the dresser itself. The optimal dimensions of the structure are 800 mm in height and 800-1200 mm in width.
4. Materials must be selected at the design stage. In this case, the following points must be taken into account:

• a product made of natural wood will have a significant weight;
• when using chipboard and MDF materials, the chest of drawers will turn out to be noticeably lighter. In addition, the manufacture of furniture from these materials will be much cheaper.

1. The chest of drawers will be assembled according to the drawing scheme. You can draw a drawing with a ruler and a pencil, or you can do it through special programs in electronic form. These are programs such as AutoCAD and Compass 3D. An electronic drawing makes it possible to determine the size of each individual element. The drawing should show the front fragment, side and top of the chest of drawers.
2. At the next stage of assembling the chest of drawers, according to the instructions, you need to determine the size of the necessary parts and make a list of them. At the same time, it should be taken into account that when determining the size of the fronts of drawers, it is necessary to provide gaps for indents between them.

For example, if, in accordance with the drawing, the size of the facade of the future chest of drawers is 1100 mm x 167 mm, a gap of 3 mm in height should be left. In addition, you need to remember that the edge will add thickness.

After drawing up the assembly diagram of the chest of drawers and a list of all the necessary elements, in accordance with this, we prepare the parts. You can ask for help from a company that specializes in cutting chipboard and making facades from MDF. Such services are offered by all companies that sell chipboard.

If you have the skills to work with a circular saw, parts can be made independently. To do this, in addition to the saw, you will also need a special disk, which is necessary for cutting the edges of the plates of two planes.

Mounting the chest of drawers

With all the details, you can start assembling them into a finished product.

For work you need to prepare:

• screws;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• nails with a large head.

The assembly process of the chest of drawers occurs in the following sequence:

1. First of all, we collect the body of the product. Using nails, we attach the back wall.
2. If it is not possible to build a wall from one piece of material, it is possible to use two elements connected by means of polymer docking parts.
3. To fasten the parts together, a furniture self-tapping screw is used. In the edge of one fragment, in the place that is equally distant from the two edges, you need to drill a blind hole with a diameter of 4 mm.
4. Then we take the part that we will attach and make a through hole in it with a size of 7 mm in diameter.
5. Screws placed in the material on the front side of the structural elements should be closed with plastic overlays.
6. Then we fasten the top cover with the help of steel corners, for the attachment of which wood screws are used.
7. On this case, the case is assembled, you need to proceed to the assembly of the boxes.

Assembly of boxes

As a rule, the installation of boxes is a more time-consuming process than the assembly of the case. The box consists of the following elements:

• facade;
• side walls.

Since there are several such components in the design at once, before assembling the chest of drawers, it is important not to get confused in the constituent elements and number them. Then do the following:

1. To install the bottom, you need to make cuts in the lower part of the walls, the depth of which will be 10 mm, and the width will be equal to the thickness of the bottom.
2. To fix the front fragment, you will need paired self-tapping screws with an eccentric. As a rule, complete with such self-tapping screws are swivel nuts with a slot along the side wall.
3. To connect the parts in one of them, we install a screw and fix it by turning the nut.
4. The lower fragment of the screw will be installed into the panel from the inside. And the upper part, which has a head, is inserted into the turnable nut.
5. To make the movement of the boxes easy, it is necessary to install roller strips on the inside of the walls of the box. Finding such details is not difficult at any outlet that sells furniture fittings.
6. To mount on the strips, you need to apply glue, and then install them on the bottom of the boxes.
7. After the glue has dried, the boxes should be installed in the frame of the product.
8. At the final stage of the assembly process, we install the handles. To do this, we fasten them with screws from the inside of the drawers.
9. At the end of the assembly, you need to check if the boxes interfere with the use of each other.
10. If the work is not smooth enough, the strips need to be sharpened with sandpaper or a planer.

Original chest of drawers from old suitcases

The manufacture of such a chest of drawers begins with the execution of the frame. Its size is determined by the number of suitcases that are supposed to be used. The material for the frame can be plastic, boards, metal, chipboard or plywood. Finishing can be done with varnish or paint, the color scheme of which matches the interior of the room. The design features of such a chest of drawers are as follows:

1. To ensure easy extension of suitcases that act as drawers, walker bars must be installed inside the frame.
2. It is recommended to cover them with varnish - this will make the process of extension even easier.
3. For the functioning of one drawer, two slats are required. Before installation, you need to remove the covers from the suitcases. Their bottom should be reinforced with plywood, which must first be cut according to the dimensions of the walls and bottom of the suitcases.
4. You can make such a chest of drawers even more spectacular by decorating it using the decoupage technique.
5. You can also paste over the product with a cloth or self-adhesive film.

Chest of drawers in the interior of the premises

In the bedroom, a chest of drawers is usually used to store clothes and bedding. Therefore, it is advisable to prepare a large chest of drawers for this room. For the children's room, designs with changing tables are used. Also in the child's room you can choose a chest of drawers with various fairy tales. This piece of furniture will be useful in the kitchen or dining room. It is quite convenient to store dishes in it, as well as use it as a sideboard.

In the bathroom, this piece of furniture is well suited for storing bath accessories. And if you choose it in accordance with the color scheme of plumbing, it will help create a sophisticated interior. However, one must take into account the fact that for this room a chest of drawers should be made of moisture-resistant materials, such as MDF or colored plastic. In a chest of drawers, you can store not only clothes, bed linen or dishes, but also jewelry. For this purpose, a small chest of drawers with a mirror is suitable.

Conclusion

The chest of drawers is a roomy, practical and versatile piece of furniture. It will find its application in any room. A simple design, consisting of available materials, allows you to assemble it yourself. The assembly process involves several stages. However, before assembling a chest of drawers, you need to read the instructions in order to design a functional and aesthetic piece of furniture.

Instructions on how to assemble the chest of drawers in the video can be seen below:

It would seem - what is difficult in assembling ordinary cabinet furniture? But for an inexperienced person, this process can sometimes seem like a super task. Especially, as is often the case, if there is no assembly instruction.

Let's try, using the example of an ordinary chest of drawers, to talk about the basic rules for assembling furniture.

So, you brought packed boxes. There is no particular point in checking the availability of all components (you won’t count all the screws and screws), the only thing is, if there are a lot of boxes, then you need to compare their number with the number on the invoice.

Does it match?

So everything is in order. In our case, there are only two boxes. We unpack and first of all we find the instruction.

If it is not there, we are looking for at least a picture of the appearance of our piece of furniture. It can be pasted on the outside of the box. If this is not there, then we can only rely on our own head and these recommendations, or take a typical scheme for reference:

A step-by-step video posted at the end of the article will also be useful.

First, consider the option with instructions. Depending on the responsibility of the furniture manufacturer, the instruction can be either detailed or brief (without part designations), but in both cases it contains an image of the appearance of the product.

The assembly must begin with the largest structure, in the case of a wall, it will be a cabinet with shelves for books.

Let me remind you - a chest of drawers :)

We find among all the details the side walls of the chest of drawers (cabinet). The instructions have their size, so we take a tape measure and measure the length and width (believe me, it will be much faster than trying on every detail and looking for the right one).

If there is no instruction, we look for parts of the same size and compare the holes on the inside. They should be symmetrical (with the exception of the hinge holes).

So, the side parts are found, we are looking for transverse elements.

Since we know the external dimensions (the width and length are negotiated before purchase), we are looking for shelves and covers of a suitable width in accordance with the figure, paying attention to the coincidence of the holes in the sides of the cabinet and the ends of the found horizontal elements.

So, all parts of one design (cabinet) are found, let's start assembling.

If there are drawers, the first step is to screw the guides to the inner surface of the chest of drawers (cabinet).

They come in different designs, but they are similar in one thing - before installation they need to be divided into two parts (one part is screwed to the cabinet, the second to the drawer). On the inner side surface of the pedestal, the mounting points of the guides are already indicated.

I advise you to deepen them a little with an awl, so it will be easier to wrap the screws. The holes in the guides for fastening with screws are elliptical in shape, this is necessary to adjust the position of the boxes. The structure is fastened with two screws.

When all the guides are screwed, you can proceed directly to the assembly itself (work is carried out with a horizontally located product).

To fasten the elements of a chest of drawers (cabinet), various fasteners are used, such as screws, confirmations, dowels and, sometimes, minifixes, consisting of a pin and an eccentric.

Confirmat ("euroscrew", "evrik", "screw tie", "euroscrew" is a single-element screed for connecting parts made of wood materials (see fig.)

Shelves that act as stiffeners are fastened with confirmats and dowels, all the rest are installed in a ready-made structure on shelf holders.

So, we look for holes for dowels on the side elements, they are not through.

Pour PVA glue there, insert the dowel and drive it tightly with a hammer (carefully, if you overdo it, you can damage the surface of the sidewall).

We perform such an operation with all the dowel connections on both side elements.

Some skill is required here. To begin with, stops can be placed under the falling elements.

When connecting, you can use a rubber mallet, tapping it at the attachment points of the dowels.

When all the parts have "sat down" in their place, you can screw in the confirmations without twisting them to the end.

It's time for the top cover. It is also fastened with dowels, and minifixes are added for greater reliability. A pin is screwed into the cover itself, and an eccentric is inserted into the corresponding hole in the sidewall.

Now you need to install the cover in its place and turn the eccentric so that it tightens the pin, thereby pressing the cover to the structure.

We wrap the confirmations up to the stop.

Now you need to nail the back wall of fiberboard. Before that, you need to check the equality of the diagonals by comparing them with a simple twine or tape measure.

Well, the main work is completed, it remains to collect the boxes.

There are also minifixes in the design of my boxes, but, most often, the boxes are assembled with the help of dowels and confirmations. Fasteners are already familiar, so we will not dwell on them in detail.

When the boxes are assembled, you need to attach the second part of the rails to them (be careful not to attach them back to front). On the surface of the sidewalls of the boxes there are also marks for fasteners. All operations are similar.

Putting the boxes in place.

Well, the final stage - we remove the film (if any) from all facades, close the caps of confirmations with plugs, install handles.

Yes, as a rule, the holes for attaching the handles are not always drilled to the end, so it is advisable to drill these holes before assembling the drawers.

We install our chest of drawers (wardrobe) in the place intended for it and enjoy the work done.

Chest of drawers is not defining, but a lot of meaningful element of the interior. In a variety of styles of its design, from philistine haberdashery rococo and impressively solid classics to fusion and high-tech, it is the chest of drawers that completes the composition and completes the look of the room, see fig. In some way, a chest of drawers in furniture is the same as dots over i and dashes in t.

Why is a chest of drawers not a closet?

Making a chest of drawers with your own hands is both easier and more difficult than a wardrobe. It's easier because there are only drawers in the dresser; maybe a shelf. It is more difficult because its filling is kept in a less rigid case-box without vertical partitions and tightly fixed shelves, and is used more intensively and is subjected to greater operational loads than in a cabinet. Therefore, the design of a chest of drawers made of traditional materials differs significantly from that of a cabinet.

Firstly, the chest of drawers made of wood is not installed on the plinth, but on the so-called. lower apron - a rigid support frame with legs, low or high. Secondly, each box rests on its own apron, tightly fastened to the sides of the case, this gives the product the necessary rigidity.

wooden classic

For an example in fig. drawings of a classic wooden chest of drawers "for all time" are given. When using modern metal guides, 1 drawer apron is sufficient for 350-450 mm of body height, i.e. box aprons turn into stiffening belts installed through 2-3 rows of boxes. In this case, the aprons of the boxes marked in red can be omitted, but 2 of them still remain.

Varieties

The classic chest of drawers has given rise to several varieties, from left to right in fig. This is, firstly, a bureau that will be useful not only to a bureaucrat who enthusiastically indulges in his vice and in the family circle. A bureau, unlike a secretary, does not give the psychological effect of hanging something over your head, so it is more convenient to do creative and fine painstaking work behind it: needlework, soldering, fiddling with precision mechanics. Although, of course, you can put the things you need for business on the shelves of the secretary, so the choice in this case depends on the taste and character traits.

The layout of the bureau is shown in fig. The mechanism for folding the lid and turning it into a tabletop, as we see, is simple and quite accessible for self-production. The missing dimensions according to the available free space can be calculated using the following guidelines.

A chest of drawers with a chest is convenient because it does not take up extra usable space and you do not need to bend down to it. And if the lid of the chest is flat, then the functionality of the dresser is preserved. Structurally, a chest of drawers is no more complicated than usual: the upper shelf of the chest of drawers also serves as the bottom of the chest.

A card file differs from a linen chest of drawers in the presence of many small drawers; we will consider the features of their design below. Again, it will be useful, not only to litigants for dossiers or bookworms as a repository for a personal library catalog. For a woman, especially with daughters, for underwear and little things dear to the heart, this may not be enough. A chest of drawers will have to be in place for a craftsman working with the same exact mechanics or a radio amateur.

Finally, the trend of our days is a wooden chest of drawers with a fireplace. Modern fireplace inserts have reached a high degree of fire safety and there are models that are quite suitable for embedding in wooden furniture, as long as the house has a smoke channel separate from ventilation. The aesthetic effect of a chest of drawers with a fireplace can not be described, and so everything is visible.

For the little ones…

A separate type of chest of drawers is designed for swaddling babies. The changing chest is made of environmentally friendly and non-allergenic materials: solid hardwood (birch is the most reliable tested for harmlessness) or chipboard of zero (highest, extra) grade with an emission class of phenol-containing compounds E0. The flip-top lid turns it into a changing table; its mechanism is made as simple and reliable as possible: mothers with babies do not have time to think about where to press, hook and pull. The lid of the chest of drawers and the table are equipped with bumpers so that the baby does not fall off and diapers-undershirts-pampers do not catch on anything. The device, assembly procedure and specification of parts of the popular 600/4 changing chest are shown in fig. The main material is chipboard grade 0 with a thickness of 16 mm.

… and the smallest

A chest of drawers is not necessarily outdoor furniture, it can be desktop, for decorations and small things. In this case, it makes sense, without planting carpentry in the house, to make it out of cardboard. For a large chest of drawers, as well as for any furniture with movable modules, cardboard technologies are not applicable, because. cardboard reinforced in any way still does not withstand wear from friction. But in small chests of drawers, the ratio of the bearing area of ​​the loaded box to its weight turns out to be many times greater, and the cardboard already holds when they crawl over it. And if it rubs off, it doesn’t matter: the product is practically free and easily repeatable. How to make an elegant table chest of drawers for jewelry yourself, see.

Video: making a mini chest of drawers for jewelry

Video: decorating a mini chest of drawers

A mini chest of drawers does not have to be with vertical drawer fronts. In many cases it is more convenient that they open up, so there is less chance that an earring, a needle or a button will immediately fall out and be lost. Therefore, the functions of a desktop chest of drawers are often entrusted to a folding box, see Fig.:

But what if a chest of drawers for household items is placed in a pantry or other utility room? There, beauty is not required from him, only simplicity, cheapness, capacity and more or less decent durability. Then you can assemble a chest of drawers from boxes, as, for example, shown in the video:

Video: mini chest of drawers

If there is no required number of empty boxes, but there is an unnecessary packing cardboard, then the boxes are made from it according to any of the patterns of the crates, see fig. For a chest of drawers, pos. (b), (c) and (e): a hinged lid with a side will hold crumbling small things and make it easier to sort them out.

When the little one grows up

At first glance, it seems that the cardboard chest of drawers “in haste” will also go to the nursery, but this is not so. Show me a child who always listens, understands and follows the instructions and exhortations of adults! For normal development, children absolutely need to explore the environment, and the easiest and fastest way to explore is to break it down. Paradoxically, without this, the child will never know the value of things and will not learn how to handle them, no matter how obedient and quiet he may be.

A chest of drawers in a nursery should be especially durable and reliable, like any children's furniture. As a working and household corner in the children's room, a changing chest will fit when the child gets on his feet and starts doing something with his hands. But what about his own needs, small but necessary?

Children's chest of drawers for small things can be made of plywood. Children of pragmatism, the subtleties of aesthetics, they have yet to learn who nature has endowed with taste. Therefore, you should not particularly contrive with the decor: paint the blanks in 2 colors, and it’s already good, on the left in fig. Just do not need to stain, it is better to use water-based tinted acrylic varnish, it is safe, even if they gnaw.

Sufficient capacity is already required from a chest of drawers for toys: a favorite bear, elephant or dog Pep can be as tall as the owner. And it is desirable that the chest of drawers, as it were, teaches children not to scatter toys, this is where accuracy and commitment begin. A good solution in this sense is a chest of drawers for toys in the form of a ladder to the loft bed. Take a closer look at the children: do they trample on toys, even if they are designated villains in their world? And later, a chest of drawers-ladder can serve as a wardrobe-wall, if shelves are attached to the steps.

If without a tree?

Solid wood furniture material is not cheap. It is possible to rally furniture panels from boards with your own hands, but you need a production area outside the living quarters and you need to make fixtures. And besides, the preparation of construction lumber for assembly into furniture panels requires a lot of time.

It is tempting to replace an array of MDF or laminate flooring, but, alas, the very structure of these materials does not make it possible to make furniture joints of parts from them reliable. They will go only to the facades of boxes, see below.

Drywall is absolutely not suitable for a chest of drawers: it is not a structural material, and the voids of the frame will take up so much space that there will be nowhere to put things. OSB for phenol run-off and layer strength is not suitable for furniture. So, plywood and laminated chipboard (LDSP) remain.

plywood chest of drawers

Plywood is a very suitable material for furniture. A chest of drawers made of plywood after staining with stain, painting or decoupling can decorate any interior, see fig. If blanks from ordinary construction plywood were thoroughly impregnated on both sides with a water-polymer emulsion, then in a heated room a plywood chest of drawers is almost eternal.

However, plywood is prone to delamination. Therefore, in plywood furniture, constantly loaded joints in the edge (at the end) should be avoided in every possible way. Dowels, fugues and dowels generally disappear, and metal end fasteners should only keep the knot from falling apart; operational loads must be assumed by the structural material.

An example of the design of a plywood chest of drawers that meets the specified requirements is shown in fig. The thickness of the plywood is 18 mm, so that, if necessary/possible, solid oak, beech or walnut can be partially used. The design of the bottom apron is the same as that of a classic wooden chest of drawers, only its boards are also cut out of plywood, and the corner bars are knocked off from several of its strips. Due to the higher elasticity and rigidity of plywood, it became possible to do without box aprons.

Chipboard chests

Chipboard material is even more durable and rigid than plywood, so the design of a chest of drawers made of it is greatly simplified: what the frame of a chest of drawers made of chipboard looks like is shown in fig. on right. If the product goes under painting with a primer, then you can use not laminated, but much cheaper polished chipboard. But in any case, its phenol class should be E0 for children's furniture and not higher than E1 (first grade) for adults. For furniture in utility and industrial premises, classes E2 with natural ventilation and E3 with supply and exhaust are acceptable.

Note: back wall of the frame in Fig. from fiberboard with a thickness of 4 mm. How it is installed is shown in the sidebar.

About the design of chests of drawers

The above examples of dresser designs are almost all with dimensions. But, if you want to repeat any of them or something else, you will most likely need to adjust the dimensions of the product to your room, because. chest of drawers is designed according to the residual principle as a piece of furniture not of paramount importance. In the chest of drawers, in turn, most of the useful volume falls on the boxes, which is why the chest of drawers is designed "from the box" in stages in the following order:

1. Measurements in the room determine the overall dimensions of the chest of drawers;
2. According to the intended content, the number, size and location of the boxes are determined; in case of self-production, this stage is exclusively individual;
3. The design (designs) of boxes is selected;
4. Suitable guides are selected, see below;
5. Technological gaps in the body are calculated;
6. The overall dimensions of the chest of drawers are determined, taking into account the removal of the lower apron and countertops (not necessary for chests of drawers from chipboard);
7. If the product does not fit into the specified dimensions, a re-arrangement and recalculation is carried out starting from paragraph 2.

boxes

The design of the drawers begins with the choice of the type of facades: internal, on the left in the figure, or external, on the right in the same place. The internal ones are more elegant, but require more precision in work, because. a technical gap of 3 mm + 2 mm on the edge, if the chest of drawers is made of chipboard, must be provided along the contour of the facade, and its unequal value is immediately evident. If the box is on self-made wooden rails, and the protrusion of its facade is a stopper when pushed in, then in any case it is better to make external facades, because. internal in this design quickly come off from below.

Separately, one should dwell on boxes of non-standard proportions. For example, small long and narrow in a filing cabinet. If you put them on modern full-removal guides, then up to a third or even up to half of the usable volume will be wasted for them in the technical gaps. Therefore, the guides for the drawers of the filing cabinet will have to be done the old fashioned way, pos. And in fig. below. The victim by full extension in this case is not fatal, because. boxes are small and light.

Note: there are modifications of the full removal guides for filing cabinets described below, but they cost 3-12 times more than analogues for large heavy drawers. Features of the pricing of the consumer society ...

If the boxes, on the contrary, are large and wide, covering the entire front of the chest of drawers, then the plywood bottom will not stay in the groove even when reinforced from below with cranial bars. It is unprofitable to make a solid bottom from a construction board and the box itself will come out heavy. It is necessary to make a support frame under the bottom, pos. B. Her boards are fastened to the side of the box on the outside with confirmations, and the cranial bars between them are fastened with nails.

Guides

All modern furniture drawer slides are technically and ergonomically full extension hangers, because no more than 5-7 cm of the drawer remains in the case at the maximum extension, everything inside it is visible and nothing needs to be rummaged around. But in trading practice, it is customary to call full-removal guides those on which the box completely leaves the dimension so that its back side is also outside. For the user, this can only matter if during operation the box sometimes needs to be removed from the suspension. Also, the guides are divided into lower (supporting the box from below), side and upper, ball, roller and sliding. Additionally - on conventional overhead guides and metaboxes, in which the side drawer sides of the drawer are included in the delivery set and work as part of the mechanism.

Note: It also matters if there is a closer in the suspension of the drawer - a device that pushes it to the end from a slight push into the facade.

About box loads

In the specifications of guides, by default, they indicate the dynamic load allowed for them. To get the weight that a fully extended drawer can withstand, it is divided by 3, because. dynamic load takes into account overloads in the mechanism from the inertia of a moving loaded box. For example, if somewhere on the sheet there is a “25 kg” icon, then this box with the contents should weigh no more than 8 kg with a little.

Note: and yet, when buying guides, check that the halves of the pair are marked R (right) and L (left). There are cases when unscrupulous dealers sold the same halves of broken sets, and then “dismissed”, there is, they say, no such thing in the list of warranty cases.

Videos

Roller guides, see fig. the cheapest, 50-200 rubles. for a couple. The lateral technical gap is small, 26 mm in general per box, but the vertical gap between the boxes is needed from 19 mm (16 mm according to the suspension specifications and a total of 3 mm). Weight at full removal ("in a trade" it is incomplete, approx. 5 cm of the box remains inside) up to 8 kg. They walk with a roar, the closer is gravitational and therefore works rudely. With careful use, they serve for 7-10 years, and then it is necessary to replace the plastic rollers, all at once. The marking of the drilling for fastening is very simple, on the right in fig. Exactly there it is necessary to withstand only the lower dimension of 30 mm, and the upper ones can be larger depending on the height of the boxes.

Ball Kulkova

Kulkov's ball guides or simply bags, see fig., are practically eternal, because kinematics steel on rolling. They cost 2-3 times more than rollers. They run exceptionally smoothly and quietly, but there is no closer in the basic model. There are modifications with the possibility of its connection with delivery as a set or as an option. If you take "bags" not for fine-tuning, ask if they are designed for it or not; the former will be more expensive.

There are also complaints about the difficulty of installing the "bags", but in reality it turns out that these craftsmen tried to put them together with the box. The Kulkov guides are mounted separately, and then the box is inserted into the body part. This, however, still requires increased accuracy of marking and drilling. The technical clearance of the total 25 mm per box is required only on the side. Hold "bags" weight from 7 to 20 kg, depending on the model; you can first navigate by the height of the guides: 17, 27, 35 or 45 mm.

Metaboxes

Metaboxes, see fig., gave the name to the whole class of drawer hangers with complete side drawers. “Real” metaboxes are roller guides with an upper suspension, which is why the box moves quietly and does not warp. The closer is also very smooth. Complete metabox drawers are available in heights from 85 to 285 mm, so for deep drawers you have to buy (expensive) railings, which still do not protect small contents from falling out, which can cause it to get stuck, and when trying to pull out the drawer, both it and the stuck object will break. There are metaboxes with 175 mm sides approximately like Kulkov's guides, but in everything else they are equivalent to simple rollers, including service life, but are not repairable. To calculate the drilling for installation, a special program (DYNALOG or others) is required, because some manufacturers simply do not give her a card.

Tandems

Guides "Tandem" are 10-15 times more expensive than simple rollers, but very reliable and durable. The weight of the box at full extension is from 20 kg, there are models for 50. There are modifications with complete drawers, they are called metalboxes, pos. 1 in fig. Ordinary tandems - really complete removal, pos. 2, and the box can be removed as needed without tools. In addition to the closer, the mechanism includes the Tip-On system, pos. 3: the retracted drawer itself moves out a little from a light push into the facade. Tandems take up quite a lot of useful furniture space, because. the lower technical gap is large, pos. 4, and the area of ​​the bottom of the box is greater than that of its sides. In a chest of drawers with wide and deep drawers, this is very noticeable.

About gaps and landings

The easiest way is to accurately calculate the dimensions of the chest of drawers in the special furniture programs PRO100 or Basis-Mebelshchik. For those who are used to using general design AutoCad or Compass3D, you need to set tolerances and fits in the software options. The same will be needed if you design a chest of drawers with a pencil on paper. For a chest of drawers, by the way, this may be faster than setting up the software.

Tolerances in width and vertical are set by technical clearances in the specification of the selected guides, but you will have to calculate them yourself in depth:

Finally

This article did not address the issues of finishing and decorating the dresser, excluding the video about the mini chest of drawers; this is a separate big topic. However, a chest of drawers, as an aesthetic piece of furniture that completes the interior, requires especially careful decoration. Therefore, the design of the future product must be worked out already at the stage of choosing a place for it.

Any hostess dreams that all things in the house are on the shelves, each in its place, so that any little thing is easy to find. Such a desire is easy to fulfill by making a chest of drawers in your house with your own hands. The good old chest of drawers will never get old and will not go out of fashion. The proposed chest of drawers with drawers is assembled from wood, these are carpentry furniture boards from pine. There are five drawers, they are put forward by telescopic guides.
Here is a drawing of a chest of drawers with dimensions:

Stages of work in the manufacture of a chest of drawers with your own hands.

1) First you need to cut pine furniture panels. They should have a thickness of 27 and 18mm. A circular saw with guides is used.

2) The chest of drawers has load-bearing side walls, which makes the structure rigid, in addition, it is convenient to attach drawer guides to it.

3) Wooden strips with V-shaped grooves are attached to the edges of the double side walls. Bars are pre-screwed to such an overlay and inserted between the wall shields.

4) With the help of a milling machine, the front and side edges are profiled on the bottom and lid of the chest of drawers, after which everything is carefully polished.

5) To assemble the double walls of the chest of drawers, take connecting bars with a section of 18 by 18 and glue them to the bottom and lid. For reliability, they can be pulled together with screws.

6) The walls of the chest of drawers are put on the bars and fixed from the inside with screws.

7) A wooden partition is attached to the lid from the inside between the two upper drawers. Two guides are attached to it with screws.

8) A plinth frame is assembled from three parts 90 mm wide, which are cut out of pine shields, they are sawn down to the “mustache”. Using a jigsaw, a figured cut is made.

9) Drawers are assembled from four parts cut from a pine shield. On the walls of the chest of drawers outline the position of the drawers and fasten the guides.

10) Wooden handles are attached to the front panels of the drawers, after which the front panels are attached to the boxes.

11) All surfaces of the chest of drawers are carefully polished with a grinder and varnished or waxed.

A chest of drawers is a closet created long ago and not undergoing major design changes (no more than 1.2-1.5 meters high), the distinguishing feature of which is the presence of many drawers located on its front side. Chests of drawers have won the love of consumers around the world since the 18th century, during which it gradually evolved from a chest to the form it has today.

The advantage of a chest of drawers over other types of furniture designed for storing things are two details.

Compact dimensions - as a rule, it is placed even in the smallest room. Also, due to the fact that the drawers are arranged horizontally, chests of drawers can be made of almost any height, adjusting to the individual orders of consumers. Often the top surface of this furniture is used as a TV stand, coffee table, or even an ironing board.

Shelf system. Due to the fact that the shelves are arranged horizontally, the possibilities for fine cataloging and sorting of things stored in it increase.

As a rule, chests of drawers are made of wood, but in the 21st century, with the development of the oil industry, cheaper, plastic counterparts appeared.

The first stage is the formation of an idea

Before you start making a chest of drawers yourself, you should clearly define what specific product you want to make. It is necessary to clearly present its appearance, details, material, shape, and, of course, the number, size and location of the boxes.

When you have presented your future product, it is worth drawing a sketch of it on paper and writing out all the materials and tools necessary for its manufacture.

Then, you should make sure that you have access to them (it will be bad if you were going to make boxes, for example, from oak, but it turned out that it is not sold in your city).

Once you have drawn a sketch and made sure that you can get all the materials and tools necessary for its manufacture, you can proceed to the second stage of creation.

The second stage is the creation of a drawing

Making the right drawing of a chest of drawers according to your sketch can be quite a difficult task if you do not have a specialized education, and school drawing skills have long been lost. To get out of this situation, you can order a drawing from special firms, or completely abandon it by creating a layout in an electronic program.

You can look for help from friends - no, no, and one will turn out to be a master of drawing. But no matter how you create the project itself, you need to understand what exactly will be in it. To determine this understanding, you need to take a few simple steps:

Measure the length and width of the place in the apartment where you want to fit your product. Make adjustments to the dimensions for the presence of skirting boards, as well as the need for free access to sockets and switches. Determine the height of your product, as a rule, chests of drawers are created with a width of 80-120 cm, a length of 100-200 cm and a height of 80-85 cm.

Make a detailed drawing of the length, width and height of all shelves and their location in the frame. Remember that the rollers for pulling out drawers also take up a certain amount of space. It is not recommended to place the lower shelf close to the floor, because. in this case, inconvenience may arise when using it.

If you do not have experience in such work, be guided by the indicators provided: the thickness of the wooden plates is 1.6 cm, the distance from the back wall of the box to the back wall of the frame is one centimeter. The gap between the side walls of the box and the frame must be at least 3 millimeters.

After these manipulations, if you did everything right, you will have a full-fledged scheme for the future chest of drawers, from which you cannot deviate even a millimeter, because otherwise, the whole project may turn out to be a failure.

The third stage - the manufacture of elements

So, you have in your hands a full-fledged, ready-made dresser project, where the dimensions of each of its individual elements are indicated in millimeters. You can begin to physically create a chest of drawers at home.

You should immediately remove the idea of ​​cutting out elements with hand saws. Even the sharpest saw in the hands of the master will not be able to make the edge of the board even enough so that later the drawers do not cling to each other, but move forward smoothly and pleasantly.

Therefore, the creation of elements is best done in special woodworking shops, where there are jointing and thicknessing machines.

Probably one of your friends knows has the contact details of a workshop loyal to letting you in and letting you work on the machines. Do not start work on your own if you do not have experience, because. professional machines pose a rather serious danger to life and health if safety precautions are not followed.

In a situation where there is no opportunity to work in the workshop or you simply do not risk approaching the machines, you can always come to any private furniture manufacturer and ask him to cut out the necessary chest of drawers for you for a fee.

After that, paint the elements if you want and, most importantly, saturate with a water-repellent compound and varnish.

The fourth stage - the assembly of the chest of drawers

At this stage, you should have all the elements of the future chest of drawers, including rails, guides, rollers, and so on. It's time to collect it, for this, follow the following step-by-step instructions. In principle, you can assemble it completely on your own, without the help of other people.

Assemble the frame from the rails, which are fastened to each other by a system of grooves, or thanks to self-tapping screws. When the frame is ready, put it in the place that you have allocated for the chest of drawers, and make sure that your calculations were correct and the product really fits in size.

It is very important to fix the beams in relation to each other at right angles so that the finished chest of drawers does not deform under its own weight.

Now install the side and back walls, do it carefully so as not to change the corners of the frame. Walls should be installed easily, without the use of excessive force.

Drawers are installed next. To begin, secure the side roller guides to the chest of drawers using self-tapping screws or small nails. Collect boxes separately. Install all the details of the sliding mechanism on them, and on the guides already attached to the chest of drawers. After that, install them into the desired grooves and make sure that the drawers slide out smoothly, nicely and easily.

Finally, install the countertop! Everything, your product is ready. Install it in the planned place, lay out things, take pictures and send to friends a photo of your new chest of drawers made by yourself.

Care

A homemade chest of drawers, if you did everything right, does not require special care for yourself. You will probably need to repair the drawers once every few months, and also, once every few years, restore the chest of drawers, tinting the necessary elements, replacing broken handles, and possibly upgrading the drawer mechanisms.

The advantage of creating a chest of drawers on your own is that in a situation where a wall or drawer breaks in it, you can always cut out new ones and install them.

DIY chest of drawers photo

Chest of drawers is not defining, but a lot of meaningful element of the interior. In a variety of styles of its design, from philistine haberdashery rococo and impressively solid classics to fusion and high-tech, it is the chest of drawers that completes the composition and completes the look of the room, see fig. In some way, a chest of drawers in furniture is the same as dots over i and dashes in t.

Why is a chest of drawers not a closet?

Making a chest of drawers with your own hands is both easier and more difficult than a wardrobe. It's easier because there are only drawers in the dresser; maybe a shelf. It is more difficult because its filling is kept in a less rigid case-box without vertical partitions and tightly fixed shelves, and is used more intensively and is subjected to greater operational loads than in a cabinet. Therefore, the design of a chest of drawers made of traditional materials differs significantly from that of a cabinet.

Firstly, the chest of drawers made of wood is not installed on the plinth, but on the so-called. lower apron - a rigid support frame with legs, low or high. Secondly, each box rests on its own apron, tightly fastened to the sides of the case, this gives the product the necessary rigidity.

wooden classic

For an example in fig. drawings of a classic wooden chest of drawers "for all time" are given. When using modern metal guides, 1 drawer apron is sufficient for 350-450 mm of body height, i.e. box aprons turn into stiffening belts installed through 2-3 rows of boxes. In this case, the aprons of the boxes marked in red can be omitted, but 2 of them still remain.

Varieties

The classic chest of drawers has given rise to several varieties, from left to right in fig. This is, firstly, a bureau that will be useful not only to a bureaucrat who enthusiastically indulges in his vice and in the family circle. A bureau, unlike a secretary, does not give the psychological effect of hanging something over your head, so it is more convenient to do creative and fine painstaking work behind it: needlework, soldering, fiddling with precision mechanics. Although, of course, you can put the things you need for business on the shelves of the secretary, so the choice in this case depends on the taste and character traits.

The layout of the bureau is shown in fig. The mechanism for folding the lid and turning it into a tabletop, as we see, is simple and quite accessible for self-production. The missing dimensions according to the available free space can be calculated using the following guidelines.

A chest of drawers with a chest is convenient because it does not take up extra usable space and you do not need to bend down to it. And if the lid of the chest is flat, then the functionality of the dresser is preserved. Structurally, a chest of drawers is no more complicated than usual: the upper shelf of the chest of drawers also serves as the bottom of the chest.

A card file differs from a linen chest of drawers in the presence of many small drawers; we will consider the features of their design below. Again, it will be useful, not only to litigants for dossiers or bookworms as a repository for a personal library catalog. For a woman, especially with daughters, for underwear and little things dear to the heart, this may not be enough. A chest of drawers will have to be in place for a craftsman working with the same exact mechanics or a radio amateur.

Finally, the trend of our days is a wooden chest of drawers with a fireplace. Modern fireplace inserts have reached a high degree of fire safety and there are models that are quite suitable for embedding in wooden furniture, as long as the house has a smoke channel separate from ventilation. The aesthetic effect of a chest of drawers with a fireplace can not be described, and so everything is visible.

For the little ones…

A separate type of chest of drawers is designed for swaddling babies. The changing chest is made of environmentally friendly and non-allergenic materials: solid hardwood (birch is the most reliable tested for harmlessness) or chipboard of zero (highest, extra) grade with an emission class of phenol-containing compounds E0. The flip-top lid turns it into a changing table; its mechanism is made as simple and reliable as possible: mothers with babies do not have time to think about where to press, hook and pull. The lid of the chest of drawers and the table are equipped with bumpers so that the baby does not fall off and diapers-undershirts-pampers do not catch on anything. The device, assembly procedure and specification of parts of the popular 600/4 changing chest are shown in fig. The main material is chipboard grade 0 with a thickness of 16 mm.

… and the smallest

A chest of drawers is not necessarily outdoor furniture, it can be desktop, for decorations and small things. In this case, it makes sense, without planting carpentry in the house, to make it out of cardboard. For a large chest of drawers, as well as for any furniture with movable modules, cardboard technologies are not applicable, because. cardboard reinforced in any way still does not withstand wear from friction. But in small chests of drawers, the ratio of the bearing area of ​​the loaded box to its weight turns out to be many times greater, and the cardboard already holds when they crawl over it. And if it rubs off, it doesn’t matter: the product is practically free and easily repeatable. How to make an elegant table chest of drawers for jewelry yourself, see.

Video: making a mini chest of drawers for jewelry

Video: decorating a mini chest of drawers

A mini chest of drawers does not have to be with vertical drawer fronts. In many cases it is more convenient that they open up, so there is less chance that an earring, a needle or a button will immediately fall out and be lost. Therefore, the functions of a desktop chest of drawers are often entrusted to a folding box, see Fig.:

But what if a chest of drawers for household items is placed in a pantry or other utility room? There, beauty is not required from him, only simplicity, cheapness, capacity and more or less decent durability. Then you can assemble a chest of drawers from boxes, as, for example, shown in the video:

Video: mini chest of drawers

If there is no required number of empty boxes, but there is an unnecessary packing cardboard, then the boxes are made from it according to any of the patterns of the crates, see fig. For a chest of drawers, pos. (b), (c) and (e): a hinged lid with a side will hold crumbling small things and make it easier to sort them out.

When the little one grows up

At first glance, it seems that the cardboard chest of drawers “in haste” will also go to the nursery, but this is not so. Show me a child who always listens, understands and follows the instructions and exhortations of adults! For normal development, children absolutely need to explore the environment, and the easiest and fastest way to explore is to break it down. Paradoxically, without this, the child will never know the value of things and will not learn how to handle them, no matter how obedient and quiet he may be.

A chest of drawers in a nursery should be especially durable and reliable, like any children's furniture. As a working and household corner in the children's room, a changing chest will fit when the child gets on his feet and starts doing something with his hands. But what about his own needs, small but necessary?

Children's chest of drawers for small things can be made of plywood. Children of pragmatism, the subtleties of aesthetics, they have yet to learn who nature has endowed with taste. Therefore, you should not particularly contrive with the decor: paint the blanks in 2 colors, and it’s already good, on the left in fig. Just do not need to stain, it is better to use water-based tinted acrylic varnish, it is safe, even if they gnaw.

Sufficient capacity is already required from a chest of drawers for toys: a favorite bear, elephant or dog Pep can be as tall as the owner. And it is desirable that the chest of drawers, as it were, teaches children not to scatter toys, this is where accuracy and commitment begin. A good solution in this sense is a chest of drawers for toys in the form of a ladder to the loft bed. Take a closer look at the children: do they trample on toys, even if they are designated villains in their world? And later, a chest of drawers-ladder can serve as a wardrobe-wall, if shelves are attached to the steps.

If without a tree?

Solid wood furniture material is not cheap. It is possible to rally furniture panels from boards with your own hands, but you need a production area outside the living quarters and you need to make fixtures. And besides, the preparation of construction lumber for assembly into furniture panels requires a lot of time.

It is tempting to replace an array of MDF or laminate flooring, but, alas, the very structure of these materials does not make it possible to make furniture joints of parts from them reliable. They will go only to the facades of boxes, see below.

Drywall is absolutely not suitable for a chest of drawers: it is not a structural material, and the voids of the frame will take up so much space that there will be nowhere to put things. OSB for phenol run-off and layer strength is not suitable for furniture. So, plywood and laminated chipboard (LDSP) remain.

plywood chest of drawers

Plywood is a very suitable material for furniture. A chest of drawers made of plywood after staining with stain, painting or decoupling can decorate any interior, see fig. If blanks from ordinary construction plywood were thoroughly impregnated on both sides with a water-polymer emulsion, then in a heated room a plywood chest of drawers is almost eternal.

However, plywood is prone to delamination. Therefore, in plywood furniture, constantly loaded joints in the edge (at the end) should be avoided in every possible way. Dowels, fugues and dowels generally disappear, and metal end fasteners should only keep the knot from falling apart; operational loads must be assumed by the structural material.

An example of the design of a plywood chest of drawers that meets the specified requirements is shown in fig. The thickness of the plywood is 18 mm, so that, if necessary/possible, solid oak, beech or walnut can be partially used. The design of the bottom apron is the same as that of a classic wooden chest of drawers, only its boards are also cut out of plywood, and the corner bars are knocked off from several of its strips. Due to the higher elasticity and rigidity of plywood, it became possible to do without box aprons.

Chipboard chests

Chipboard material is even more durable and rigid than plywood, so the design of a chest of drawers made of it is greatly simplified: what the frame of a chest of drawers made of chipboard looks like is shown in fig. on right. If the product goes under painting with a primer, then you can use not laminated, but much cheaper polished chipboard. But in any case, its phenol class should be E0 for children's furniture and not higher than E1 (first grade) for adults. For furniture in utility and industrial premises, classes E2 with natural ventilation and E3 with supply and exhaust are acceptable.

Note: back wall of the frame in Fig. from fiberboard with a thickness of 4 mm. How it is installed is shown in the sidebar.

About the design of chests of drawers

The above examples of dresser designs are almost all with dimensions. But, if you want to repeat any of them or something else, you will most likely need to adjust the dimensions of the product to your room, because. chest of drawers is designed according to the residual principle as a piece of furniture not of paramount importance. In the chest of drawers, in turn, most of the useful volume falls on the boxes, which is why the chest of drawers is designed "from the box" in stages in the following order:

1. Measurements in the room determine the overall dimensions of the chest of drawers;
2. According to the intended content, the number, size and location of the boxes are determined; in case of self-production, this stage is exclusively individual;
3. The design (designs) of boxes is selected;
4. Suitable guides are selected, see below;
5. Technological gaps in the body are calculated;
6. The overall dimensions of the chest of drawers are determined, taking into account the removal of the lower apron and countertops (not necessary for chests of drawers from chipboard);
7. If the product does not fit into the specified dimensions, a re-arrangement and recalculation is carried out starting from paragraph 2.

boxes

The design of the drawers begins with the choice of the type of facades: internal, on the left in the figure, or external, on the right in the same place. The internal ones are more elegant, but require more precision in work, because. a technical gap of 3 mm + 2 mm on the edge, if the chest of drawers is made of chipboard, must be provided along the contour of the facade, and its unequal value is immediately evident. If the box is on self-made wooden rails, and the protrusion of its facade is a stopper when pushed in, then in any case it is better to make external facades, because. internal in this design quickly come off from below.

Separately, one should dwell on boxes of non-standard proportions. For example, small long and narrow in a filing cabinet. If you put them on modern full-removal guides, then up to a third or even up to half of the usable volume will be wasted for them in the technical gaps. Therefore, the guides for the drawers of the filing cabinet will have to be done the old fashioned way, pos. And in fig. below. The victim by full extension in this case is not fatal, because. boxes are small and light.

Note: there are modifications of the full removal guides for filing cabinets described below, but they cost 3-12 times more than analogues for large heavy drawers. Features of the pricing of the consumer society ...

If the boxes, on the contrary, are large and wide, covering the entire front of the chest of drawers, then the plywood bottom will not stay in the groove even when reinforced from below with cranial bars. It is unprofitable to make a solid bottom from a construction board and the box itself will come out heavy. It is necessary to make a support frame under the bottom, pos. B. Her boards are fastened to the side of the box on the outside with confirmations, and the cranial bars between them are fastened with nails.

Guides

All modern furniture drawer slides are technically and ergonomically full extension hangers, because no more than 5-7 cm of the drawer remains in the case at the maximum extension, everything inside it is visible and nothing needs to be rummaged around. But in trading practice, it is customary to call full-removal guides those on which the box completely leaves the dimension so that its back side is also outside. For the user, this can only matter if during operation the box sometimes needs to be removed from the suspension. Also, the guides are divided into lower (supporting the box from below), side and upper, ball, roller and sliding. Additionally - on conventional overhead guides and metaboxes, in which the side drawer sides of the drawer are included in the delivery set and work as part of the mechanism.

Note: It also matters if there is a closer in the suspension of the drawer - a device that pushes it to the end from a slight push into the facade.

About box loads

In the specifications of guides, by default, they indicate the dynamic load allowed for them. To get the weight that a fully extended drawer can withstand, it is divided by 3, because. dynamic load takes into account overloads in the mechanism from the inertia of a moving loaded box. For example, if somewhere on the sheet there is a “25 kg” icon, then this box with the contents should weigh no more than 8 kg with a little.

Note: and yet, when buying guides, check that the halves of the pair are marked R (right) and L (left). There are cases when unscrupulous dealers sold the same halves of broken sets, and then “dismissed”, there is, they say, no such thing in the list of warranty cases.

Videos

Roller guides, see fig. the cheapest, 50-200 rubles. for a couple. The lateral technical gap is small, 26 mm in general per box, but the vertical gap between the boxes is needed from 19 mm (16 mm according to the suspension specifications and a total of 3 mm). Weight at full removal ("in a trade" it is incomplete, approx. 5 cm of the box remains inside) up to 8 kg. They walk with a roar, the closer is gravitational and therefore works rudely. With careful use, they serve for 7-10 years, and then it is necessary to replace the plastic rollers, all at once. The marking of the drilling for fastening is very simple, on the right in fig. Exactly there it is necessary to withstand only the lower dimension of 30 mm, and the upper ones can be larger depending on the height of the boxes.

Ball Kulkova

Kulkov's ball guides or simply bags, see fig., are practically eternal, because kinematics steel on rolling. They cost 2-3 times more than rollers. They run exceptionally smoothly and quietly, but there is no closer in the basic model. There are modifications with the possibility of its connection with delivery as a set or as an option. If you take "bags" not for fine-tuning, ask if they are designed for it or not; the former will be more expensive.

There are also complaints about the difficulty of installing the "bags", but in reality it turns out that these craftsmen tried to put them together with the box. The Kulkov guides are mounted separately, and then the box is inserted into the body part. This, however, still requires increased accuracy of marking and drilling. The technical clearance of the total 25 mm per box is required only on the side. Hold "bags" weight from 7 to 20 kg, depending on the model; you can first navigate by the height of the guides: 17, 27, 35 or 45 mm.

Metaboxes

Metaboxes, see fig., gave the name to the whole class of drawer hangers with complete side drawers. “Real” metaboxes are roller guides with an upper suspension, which is why the box moves quietly and does not warp. The closer is also very smooth. Complete metabox drawers are available in heights from 85 to 285 mm, so for deep drawers you have to buy (expensive) railings, which still do not protect small contents from falling out, which can cause it to get stuck, and when trying to pull out the drawer, both it and the stuck object will break. There are metaboxes with 175 mm sides approximately like Kulkov's guides, but in everything else they are equivalent to simple rollers, including service life, but are not repairable. To calculate the drilling for installation, a special program (DYNALOG or others) is required, because some manufacturers simply do not give her a card.

Tandems

Guides "Tandem" are 10-15 times more expensive than simple rollers, but very reliable and durable. The weight of the box at full extension is from 20 kg, there are models for 50. There are modifications with complete drawers, they are called metalboxes, pos. 1 in fig. Ordinary tandems - really complete removal, pos. 2, and the box can be removed as needed without tools. In addition to the closer, the mechanism includes the Tip-On system, pos. 3: the retracted drawer itself moves out a little from a light push into the facade. Tandems take up quite a lot of useful furniture space, because. the lower technical gap is large, pos. 4, and the area of ​​the bottom of the box is greater than that of its sides. In a chest of drawers with wide and deep drawers, this is very noticeable.

About gaps and landings

The easiest way is to accurately calculate the dimensions of the chest of drawers in the special furniture programs PRO100 or Basis-Mebelshchik. For those who are used to using general design AutoCad or Compass3D, you need to set tolerances and fits in the software options. The same will be needed if you design a chest of drawers with a pencil on paper. For a chest of drawers, by the way, this may be faster than setting up the software.

Tolerances in width and vertical are set by technical clearances in the specification of the selected guides, but you will have to calculate them yourself in depth:

Finally

This article did not address the issues of finishing and decorating the dresser, excluding the video about the mini chest of drawers; this is a separate big topic. However, a chest of drawers, as an aesthetic piece of furniture that completes the interior, requires especially careful decoration. Therefore, the design of the future product must be worked out already at the stage of choosing a place for it.