Explanation of the operation of the Stirling engine.

We start by marking the flywheel.

Six holes failed. It turns out not beautiful. The holes are small and the body between them is thin.

For one, we sharpen the counterweights for the crankshaft. The bearings are pressed in. Subsequently, the bearings are pressed out and a thread on M3 is cut in their place.

I milled, but you can also use a file.

This is part of the connecting rod. The rest is soldered with PSR.

Working with a sweep over the sealing washer.

Stirling bed drilling. The hole that connects the displacer to the slave cylinder. Drill for 4.8 thread for M6. Then it must be muffled.

Drilling of the working cylinder liner, for reaming.

Drilling for thread on M4.

How it was done.

The dimensions are given taking into account the converted. Two pairs of cylinder-piston were made, at 10mm. and 15mm. Both have been tested if the cylinder is set to 15mm. then the piston stroke will be 11-12mm. and does not work. But the 10mm. with a stroke of 24mm. just right.

The dimensions of the connecting rods. Brass wire Ф3mm is soldered to them.

Connecting rod mount - Bearing option failed. When the connecting rod is tightened, the bearing deforms and creates additional friction. Instead of a bearing, I made Al. bushing with bolt.

Sizes of some parts.

Some dimensions are on the flywheel.

Some sizes are both attached to the shaft and articulation.

Between the cooler and the fire chamber we put an asbestos gasket 2-3mm. It is advisable to put paronite gaskets or something that conducts less heat under the bolts that tighten both parts.

Displacing the heart of the styrling, it should be light and have little heat conduction. The stock is taken from the same old hard drive. This is one of the guide rails of a linear motor, very suitable, hardened, chrome plated. In order to cut the thread, wrapped the middle with a soaked rag, and heated the ends to red.

Connecting rod with slave cylinder. Overall length 108mm. Of these, 32mm is a piston with a diameter of 10mm. The piston should go into the cylinder easily, without noticeable scoring. To check, close it tightly with a finger from the bottom, and insert the piston from above, it should be released very slowly downward.

I planned to do this, but made changes in the process. In order to find out the stroke of the working cylinder, we move the displacer into the refrigerating chamber, and the working cylinder is pulled out by 25 mm. We heat the fire chamber. Carefully put a ruler under the working connecting rod, and remember the data. We sharply push the displacer, and how much the slave cylinder will move is its stroke. This size plays a very important role.

View of the working cylinder. Crank length 83mm. Stroke 24mm. The handwheel is attached to the shaft with an M4 screw. The photo shows his head. And in this way the displacer connecting rod counterweight is also attached.

View of the displacer connecting rod. Total length with displacer 214mm. The length of the connecting rod is 75mm. Stroke 24mm. Pay attention to the U-shaped groove on the flywheel. It was made for power take-off. There was either a generator or through a bag to the cooler fan. The flywheel pylon has dimensions of 68x25x15. The upper part is milled on one side to a depth of 7mm and a length of 32mm. The center of the bearing at the bottom is 55mm. It is fastened from below with two bolts on M4. The distance between the centers of the pylons is 126mm.

View of the combustion chamber and the cooler. The engine casing is pressed into the pylon. The dimensions of the pylon are 47x25x15, there is a recess for 12mm landing. It is fastened to the bottom of the board with two bolts on M4.

Lamp 40mm. in diameter, height 35mm. Deepened into the shaft by 8mm. At the bottom, in the center, a nut on M4 is soldered and secured with a bolt from below.

Ready view. The base is oak 300x150x15mm.

Nameplate.

I was looking for a working scheme for a long time. I found it, but it was always connected with the fact that there was either a problem with the equipment or with the materials. I decided to make it like a crossbow. After looking at many options and wondering what I have in stock and what I can do myself on my equipment. The dimensions that I figured out right away, when the device was assembled, I did not like it. It turned out to be too wide. I had to shorten the cylinder bed. And put the flywheel on one bearing (on one pylon). Materials flywheel, connecting rods, counterweight, sealing washer, lamp and working cylinder bronze. Pylons, working piston, cylinder bed, cooler and washer with thread from the heat chamber aluminum. Flywheel shaft and displacer rod steel. Fire chamber stainless steel. Displacer graphite. And I put it on display, it's up to you to judge.

The Stirling engine, once famous, was forgotten for a long time due to the widespread use of another engine (internal combustion). But today we hear more and more about him. Maybe he has a chance to become more popular and find his place in a new modification in the modern world?

History

The Stirling engine is a heat engine that was invented in the early nineteenth century. The author, as you know, was a certain Stirling named Robert, a priest from Scotland. The device is an external combustion engine, where the body moves in a closed container, constantly changing its temperature.

Due to the proliferation of another type of motor, it was almost forgotten. Nevertheless, thanks to its advantages, today the Stirling engine (many amateurs build it at home with their own hands) is making a comeback again.

The main difference from an internal combustion engine is that heat energy comes from the outside, and is not generated in the engine itself, as in an internal combustion engine.

Principle of operation

You can imagine a closed air volume enclosed in a housing with a membrane, that is, a piston. When the body heats up, the air expands and performs work, thus bending the piston. Then it cools down and it folds in again. This is the cycle of the mechanism.

It is no wonder that many do-it-yourself Stirling thermoacoustic engines are made at home. Tools and materials for this require the very minimum that can be found in everyone's house. Consider two different ways how easy it is to create it.

Materials for work

To make a Stirling engine with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• tin;
• steel spoke;
• brass tube;
• hacksaw;
• file;
• wooden stand;
• scissors for metal;
• fasteners details;
• soldering iron;
• soldering;
• solder;
• machine.

It's all. The rest is a matter of simple technique.

How to make

A firebox and two cylinders for the base are prepared from tin, of which the Stirling engine, made by hand, will consist. The dimensions are selected independently, taking into account the purposes for which this device is intended. Let's assume the motor is being made for demonstration purposes. Then the master cylinder sweep will be from twenty to twenty-five centimeters, no more. The rest of the parts should adjust to it.

On the top of the cylinder, two protrusions and holes with a diameter of four to five millimeters are made to move the piston. The elements will act as bearings for locating the crank assembly.

Next, they make the working fluid of the motor (ordinary water will become it). Tin circles are soldered to the cylinder, which is rolled up into a pipe. Holes are made in them and brass tubes are inserted from twenty-five to thirty-five centimeters in length and four to five millimeters in diameter. At the end, they check how tight the chamber has become by flooding it with water.

Next comes the displacer. For manufacturing, take a blank from a tree. On the machine, they are trying to make it take the shape of a regular cylinder. The displacer should be slightly smaller than the cylinder diameter. Optimal height they are selected after the Stirling engine is made with their own hands. Therefore, at this stage, the length should assume some margin.

The spoke is turned into a cylinder rod. A hole is made in the center of the wooden container, suitable for the stem, insert it. In the upper part of the rod, it is necessary to provide a place for the connecting rod device.

Then they take tubes of copper four and a half centimeters long and two and a half centimeters in diameter. A tin mug is soldered to the cylinder. A hole is made on the sides of the walls for communication of the container with the cylinder.

The piston is also fitted to lathe under the diameter of a large cylinder from the inside. At the top, the stem is connected in a hinged way.

The assembly is completed and the mechanism is set up. For this, the piston is inserted into the cylinder. bigger size and connect the latter to another smaller cylinder.

A crank mechanism is built on a large cylinder. Part of the engine is fixed with a soldering iron. The main parts are fixed on a wooden base.

The cylinder is filled with water and a candle is placed under the bottom. The Stirling engine, made by hand from start to finish, is tested for operability.

Method two: materials

The engine can be made in another way. To do this, you will need the following materials:

• tin;
• foam rubber;
• paper clips;
• disks;
• two bolts.

How to make

Foam rubber is very often used to make a simple, not powerful Stirling engine at home with your own hands. A displacer for the motor is prepared from it. Cut out the foam circle. The diameter should be slightly smaller than that of tin can, and the height is just over half.

A hole is made in the center of the cover for the future connecting rod. To make it walk smoothly, the paper clip is folded into a spiral and soldered to the lid.

The foam rubber circle in the middle is pierced with a thin wire with a screw and fixed on top with a washer. Then a piece of paper clip is connected by soldering.

The displacer is pushed into the hole in the lid and the jar and lid are soldered together to seal. A small loop is made on a paper clip, and another, larger hole in the lid.

The tin sheet is rolled up into a cylinder and soldered, and then attached to the jar so that there are no gaps left at all.

The paper clip is turned into a crankshaft. The spacing should be exactly ninety degrees. The knee above the cylinder is made slightly larger than the other.

The rest of the staples are converted into shaft racks. The membrane is made as follows: the cylinder is wrapped in a polyethylene film, pressed through and fastened with a thread.

The connecting rod is made from a paper clip that is inserted into a piece of rubber and the finished part is attached to the membrane. The length of the connecting rod is made such that the membrane is pulled into the cylinder at the bottom gross point, and stretched out at the highest point. The second part of the connecting rod is made in the same way.

Then one is glued to the membrane and the other to the displacer.

The jar legs can also be made from paper clips and soldered. A CD is used for the crank.

So the whole mechanism is ready. It remains only to substitute and light a candle under it, and then give a push through the flywheel.

Conclusion

Such is the low-temperature Stirling engine (self-built). Of course in industrial scale such devices are made in a completely different way. However, the principle remains unchanged: the air volume is heated and then cooled. And this is constantly repeated.

Finally, look at these drawings of the Stirling engine (you can do it yourself without special skills). Maybe you are already on fire with the idea, and you would like to do something similar?

Hello everyone! Today I want to present to your attention homemade engine, which converts any temperature difference into mechanical work:

Stirling's engine- a heat engine, in which a liquid or gaseous working fluid moves in a closed volume, a kind of external combustion engine. It is based on periodic heating and cooling of the working fluid with the extraction of energy from the resulting change in the volume of the working fluid. It can work not only from fuel combustion, but also from any heat source.

I present to your attention my engine, made from pictures from the Internet:

Seeing this miracle, I had a desire to make it)) Moreover, there were many drawings and engine designs on the Internet. I will say right away: it is not difficult to do it, but it is a little problematic to regulate and achieve normal operation. It worked fine for me only from the third time (I hope you won't suffer so much)))).

Stirling engine working principle:

Everything is made from materials available to every brainchild:

Well, how can it be without sizes)))

The engine frame is made of staple wire. All fixed wire connections are brazed ()

The displacer (a disk that moves air inside the engine) is made of drawing paper and glued with superglue (it is hollow inside):

The smaller the clearance between the covers and the displacer in the upper and lower positions, the more efficient the engine will be.

Displacer stem - from blind rivet(manufacturing: carefully pull out the inner part and, if necessary, clean sandpaper zero; glue the outer part to the upper "cold" lid with the cap inside). But this option has a drawback - there is no complete tightness and there is little friction, although a drop engine oil help get rid of it.

The piston cylinder is a neck from an ordinary plastic bottle:

The piston casing is made of a medical glove and secured with a thread, which after winding must be impregnated with superglue for reliability. A disc made of several layers of cardboard is glued to the center of the casing, on which a connecting rod is fixed.

The crankshaft is made of the same clips as the entire engine frame. the angle between the knees of the piston and the displacer is 90 degrees. Displacer working stroke - 5mm; piston - 8mm.

The flywheel consists of two CDs that are glued to a cardboard cylinder and mounted on the crankshaft axle.

So, stop talking nonsense, I present to you engine operation video:

The difficulties that I encountered were mainly related to excessive friction and the lack of exact dimensions of the structure. in the first case, a drop of engine oil and the alignment of the crankshaft corrected the situation, then in the second, you had to rely on intuition))) But as you can see, everything worked out (though I completely reworked the engine 3 times))))

If you have any questions, write in the comments, we'll figure it out)))

Thank you for the attention)))

For a long time I have been watching the craftsmen on this resource, and when the article appeared I wanted to make it myself. But as always there was no time and I put off the idea.
But then I finally passed my diploma, graduated from the military department and it time appeared.
It seems to me to make such an engine much easier than a USB flash drive :)

First of all, I want to repent to the guru of this site that a person in his 20s is engaged in such nonsense, but I just wanted to do it and there is nothing to explain this desire, I hope my next step will still be a flash drive.
So we need:
1 Desire.
2 Three cans.
3 Copper wire(I found it with a cross section of 2 mm).
4 Paper (newspaper or office does not matter).
5 Stationery glue (PVA).
6 Super glue (CYJANOPAN or any other in the same spirit).
7 Rubber glove or balloon.
8 Terminals for wiring 3 pcs.
9 Wine stopper 1pc.
10 A bit of line.
11 Tools to taste.

1- the first bank; 2- second; 3 - third; 3-lid of the third can; 4- membrane; 5- displacer; 6- wiring terminal; 7- crankshaft; 8- tin piece :) 9- connecting rod; 10- cork; 11- disc; 12- line.
Let's start by cutting off two cans from all three cans. I did it with a homemade dremel, at first I wanted to poke holes in a circle with an awl and cut with scissors, but I remembered the device about the miracle.
To be honest, it didn't work out very nicely and I accidentally milled a hole in the wall of one of the cans, so it was no longer suitable for the working container (but I had two more and I made them more carefully).


Next, we need a jar that will serve as a form for displacer(5).
Since the bazaars did not work on Monday and all nearby auto shops were closed, and I wanted to make an engine, I allowed myself to change the original design and make the displacer out of paper, not steel wool.
To do this, I found a fish food jar that fit me the most in size. I chose the size based on the fact that the diameter of the soda can was 53mm, so I was looking for 48-51mm so that when I wrap the paper on the mold, I get about 1-2mm distance between the can wall and the displacer (5) for air passage. (I pre-pasted the jar with tape so that the glue does not stick).


Then I marked a strip of A4 sheet at 70 mm, and cut the rest into strips of 50 mm (as in the article). To be honest, I don’t remember how many such strips I wound, well, let it be 4-5 (strips 50mm x 290mm, I made the number of layers by eye, so that when the glue sets, the displacer is not soft). Each layer was coated with PVA glue.


Then he made the displacer covers from 6 layers of paper (he also glued everything and pressed round handle to squeeze out the remnants of glue and air bubbles) when he glued all the layers, he pressed them on top with books so that they do not bend.

I also cut off the bottom of the can (2) with scissors, which was intact, at a distance of about 10 mm, since the displacer did not pass through the upper hole. This will be ours working capacity.
This is what happened in the end (I did not immediately cut off the lid of the can (3), but I still have to do it in order to put a candle there).


Further, at a distance of about 60mm from the bottom, I cut off the jar (3) that I still had with the lid. This bottom will serve us firebox.


Then he cut off the bottom of the second jar (1) with the cut out lid, also at a distance of 10 mm (from the bottom). And put it all together.


Further, it seemed to me that if a smaller object was glued to the membrane (4) of the working cylinder (2) instead of a lid, the design would improve and I cut out such a sample from paper. At the base is a square 15x15mm and "ears" 10mm each. And I cut out a detail from the sample (8).


Then I drilled holes with a diameter of 2.1 or 2.5 mm (it does not matter) in the terminals (6), after which I took a wire (with a cross section of 2 mm) measured 150 mm, it will be ours " crankshaft"(7). And bent it according to the following dimensions: the height of the displacer knee (5) -20mm The height of the membrane knee (4) -5mm. Between them there should be 90 degrees (no matter in which direction). I made washers and attached them with glue so that the terminals do not dangle on the crankshaft.
It did not work out right away to make it exactly and exactly in size, but I redid it again (rather for my own reassurance).


Then I again took the wire (2mm) and cut off a piece, about 200mm, this will be the connecting rod (9) of the membrane (4), passed the part (8) through it and bent it (to be shown).
I took a can (1) (the one that is a little full of holes) and made holes in it for the "crankshaft" (7) at a distance of 30mm from the top (but this is not important). And cut through the viewing window with scissors.


Then, when the displacer cylinder (5) was dry and completely glued, I began to glue the covers to it. When the lids were glued, I made a cross-section wire about half a millimeter in order to attach the fishing line (12).


Next, I carved an axle (10) from a wooden handle to connect the discs (11) to the crankshaft, but I recommend using a wine stopper.
And now the hardest part (as for me) I cut out the membrane (4) from medical gloves and glued the same detail (8) to it in the center. I placed the membrane on the working cylinder (2) and tied it along the border with a thread, and when I began to cut off the excess parts, the membrane began to crawl out from under the thread (although I did not pull the membrane) and when it was completely cut off I began to pull it over and the membrane fell off completely.
I took super glue and glued the end of the can, and then glued the already prepared membrane, placing it strictly in the center, held it and waited for the glue to harden. Then he pressed it again, but this time with an elastic band, cut off the edges, took off the elastic and glued it again (outside).
Here's what happened at that time






Next, I pierced a hole in the membrane (4) and the piece (8) with a needle and passed the fishing line (12) through them (which was also not easy).
Well, when I put everything together, this is what happened:


I must admit right away that at first the engine did not work, even more, it seemed to me that it would not work at all, because it was necessary to turn it (with a burning candle) manually and with a rather large force (as for a self-rotating engine). I was completely limp and already began to scold myself that I made a displacer out of paper, that I took the wrong cans, that I made a mistake in the length of the connecting rod (9) or the line of the displacer (5). But after an hour of torment and disappointment, my candle (the one in the aluminum case) finally burned out and I took the remaining one from the New Year (the one that is green in the photo), it burned MUCH harder and lo and behold, I managed to start it.
CONCLUSIONS
1 What the displacer is made of does not matter, as I read on one of the sites "it should be light and not heat-conducting."
2 The change in the length of the connecting rod (9) and the length of the line (12) of the displacer (5) does not matter, as I read on one of the sites “the main thing is that the displacer does not hit the top or bottom during operation working chamber", So I put it about in the middle. And the membrane in a calm (cold) state should be flat, and not stretched up or down.
Video
Video with engine operation. I have supplied 4 discs, they are used as a flywheel. When starting up, I try to raise the displacer to the upper position, as I’m still afraid that it will not overheat. It turns, it should be like this: first the displacer rises up, and then the membrane rises behind it, the displacer goes down, and the membrane goes down behind it.

PS: maybe if you balance it, it will spin faster, but I have hastily from balancing did not work :)

Water cooled video. It does not help much in the work, and as you can see, it does not particularly speed up its rotation, but with such a cooling, the engine can be admired for a longer time without fear of overheating.

And here is a rough drawing of my prototype (large size):
s016.radikal.ru/i335/1108/3e/a42a0bdb9f32.jpg
Who needs the original (KOMPAS V 12) I can send it to the post office.

Perhaps you ask me why it is still needed and I will answer. Like everything in our steampunk, mostly for the soul.
I ask you not to kick strongly this is my first publication.

The modern automotive industry has reached a level of development at which, without fundamental scientific research almost impossible to achieve cardinal improvements in the design of traditional internal combustion engines. This situation forces designers to pay attention to alternative power plant designs... Some engineering centers have focused their efforts on creating and adapting to serial production of hybrid and electrical models, other carmakers are investing in the development of engines powered by renewable fuels (such as rapeseed biodiesel). There are other projects of power units, which in the future may become a new standard propulsive device for Vehicle.

Among the possible sources of mechanical energy for cars of the future, the external combustion engine, which was invented in mid XIX century by the Scotsman Robert Stirling as a thermal expansion machine.

Scheme of work

Stirling engine converts thermal energy supplied from the outside into useful mechanical work due to changes in the temperature of the working fluid(gas or liquid) circulating in a closed volume.

V general view the scheme of operation of the device looks as follows: in the lower part of the engine, the working substance (for example, air) heats up and, increasing in volume, pushes the piston upward. Hot air enters the upper part motor, where it is cooled by a radiator. The pressure of the working fluid decreases, the piston is lowered for the next cycle. In this case, the system is sealed and the working substance is not consumed, but only moves inside the cylinder.

There are several options for the design of power units using the Stirling principle.

Stirling modification "Alpha"

The engine consists of two separate power pistons (hot and cold), each located in its own cylinder. Heat is supplied to the hot piston cylinder and the cold cylinder is located in the cooling heat exchanger.

Stirling modification "Beta"

The cylinder containing the piston is heated on one side and cooled on the opposite end. A power piston and a displacer move in the cylinder to change the volume of the working gas. The reverse movement of the cooled working substance into the hot cavity of the engine is performed by the regenerator.

Stirling modification "Gamma"

The design consists of two cylinders. The first is completely cold, in which the power piston moves, and the second, hot on one side and cold on the other, serves to move the displacer. The regenerator for circulation of cold gas can be common to both cylinders or be part of the displacer design.

Stirling engine advantages

Like most external combustion engines, Stirling has multi-fuel: the engine runs on a temperature difference, whatever the cause.

Interesting fact! Once a plant was demonstrated that operated on twenty fuel options. Gasoline was supplied to the external combustion chamber without stopping the engine, diesel fuel, methane, crude oil and vegetable oil- the power unit continued to work steadily.

The engine has simplicity of design and does not require additional systems and attachments(Timing, starter, gearbox).

The features of the device guarantee a long service life: more than one hundred thousand hours continuous work.

The Stirling engine is silent, since there is no detonation in the cylinders and there is no need to remove exhaust gases. The Beta version, equipped with a rhombic crank mechanism, is a perfectly balanced system that does not have vibrations during operation.

No processes occur in the engine cylinders that can cause negative impact on environment... When choosing a suitable heat source (for example, solar energy) Stirling can be absolutely environmentally friendly power unit.

Disadvantages of Stirling's design

With all the set of positive properties, the immediate mass use of Stirling engines is impossible for the following reasons:

The main problem lies in the material consumption of the structure. Cooling the working fluid requires large-volume radiators, which significantly increases the size and metal consumption of the installation.

The current technological level will allow the Stirling engine to compare in performance with modern gasoline engines only through the use of complex species working medium (helium or hydrogen), under a pressure of more than one hundred atmospheres. This fact causes serious questions both in materials science and user safety.

An important operational problem is related to the issues of thermal conductivity and temperature resistance of metals. Heat is supplied to the working volume through heat exchangers, which leads to inevitable losses. In addition, the heat exchanger must be made of heat-resistant metals that are resistant to high pressure. Suitable materials very expensive and difficult to handle.

The principles of changing the modes of the Stirling engine are also radically different from the traditional ones, which requires the development of special control devices. So, to change the power, it is necessary to change the pressure in the cylinders, the phase angle between the displacer and the power piston, or to influence the capacity of the cavity with the working fluid.

One of the ways to control the speed of rotation of the shaft on the model of the Stirling engine can be seen in the following video:

Efficiency

In theoretical calculations, the efficiency of a Stirling engine depends on the temperature difference of the working fluid and can reach 70% or more in accordance with the Carnot cycle.

However, the first samples realized in metal had an extremely low efficiency for the following reasons:

• ineffective options for the coolant (working fluid) that limit the maximum heating temperature;
• energy losses due to friction of parts and thermal conductivity of the motor housing;
• lack of construction materials resistant to high pressure.

Engineering solutions are constantly improving the structure of the power unit. So, in the second half of the 20th century, a four-cylinder automobile Stirling engine with rhombic drive showed 35% efficiency in tests on a water coolant with a temperature of 55 ° C. Careful study of the design, the use of new materials and fine-tuning of the working units ensured the efficiency of the experimental samples of 39%.

Note! Modern gasoline engines similar power have an efficiency of 28-30%, and turbocharged diesels in the range of 32-35%.

Modern examples of the Stirling engine, such as that created by the American company Mechanical Technology Inc, demonstrate efficiency up to 43.5%. And with the development of the production of heat-resistant ceramics and similar innovative materials, the possibility of a significant increase in temperature will appear. working environment and achieving an efficiency of 60%.

Examples of successful implementation of automotive Stirlings

Despite all the difficulties, many workable models of the Stirling engine are known that are applicable to the automotive industry.

Interest in a Stirling suitable for installation in a car appeared in the 50s of the XX century. Such concerns as Ford Motor Company, Volkswagen Group and others were working in this direction.

UNITED STIRLING (Sweden) has developed a Stirling, in which the serial components and assemblies produced by automakers (crankshaft, connecting rods) were used to the maximum. The resulting four-cylinder V-engine had a specific gravity of 2.4 kg / kW, which is comparable to that of a compact diesel. This unit was successfully tested as a power plant for a seven-ton cargo van.

One of the successful examples is the four-cylinder Stirling engine of the Dutch production model "Philips 4-125DA", intended for installation on a car... The engine had a working power of 173 liters. with. in sizes similar to the classic gasoline unit.

Significant results were achieved by engineers of the General Motors company, having built in the 70s an eight-cylinder (4 working and 4 compression cylinders) V-shaped Stirling engine with a standard crank mechanism.

A similar power plant in 1972 equipped with a limited edition of Ford Torino vehicles, the fuel consumption of which has decreased by 25% compared to the classic gasoline V-shaped eight.

Currently, more than fifty foreign companies are working to improve the design of the Stirling engine in order to adapt it to mass production for the needs of the automotive industry. And if we can fix the flaws of this type engines, while retaining its advantages, then it is Stirling, and not turbines and electric motors, that will replace the gasoline internal combustion engine.