DIY aquarium lighting. Correct calculation and production of LED aquarium lighting with your own hands

In any aquarium, for the comfortable maintenance of plants and living inhabitants you need correct lighting. With enough light, the fish look most attractive, and for aquarium flora this is a necessary condition for existence. You can arrange the right lighting in different ways. But the most optimal is lighting made by yourself. It is not difficult to install and secure the lamps, having previously calculated the power of the equipment.

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    How to choose technical parameters

    High-quality lighting for the aquarium should be as close as possible to natural sunlight. Since almost everything aquarium fish and plants native to places with a tropical climate, it is necessary to recreate exactly the following lighting conditions in the tank:

    • The duration of daylight hours should be almost the same throughout the year and range from 10 to 12 hours.
    • The light intensity should vary throughout the day. Its maximum value should occur at noon and several hours after it. The rest of the time, moderate light is required.

    Lighting made according to these principles will allow the flora to grow quickly and luxuriantly, and the living inhabitants to feel great and delight with their bright colors. To implement such a project, you need several lamps and a special controller that will automatically change the light intensity.

    How to calculate lamp power

    It is necessary to begin the arrangement with a preliminary assessment of the power of the lamps that will illuminate the home tank with optimal intensity. To do this, you need to take into account not the volume of the aquarium itself, but the amount of water in it. The air gap and the space occupied by the soil at the bottom are not taken into account. It is also necessary to consider what type of aquarium it is. It can be marine, freshwater or with plants. Another necessary parameter is the type of living inhabitants: they can be light- or shade-loving, as well as bottom-dwelling.

    Taking into account all the factors, you need to calculate the approximate lighting power based on the volume of water in the aquarium:

    These parameters correspond to backlight made from incandescent or halogen lamps. However, nowadays they are used very rarely due to their low efficiency and high heat during operation. Therefore, to recalculate the specified data to the power of other sources, you can use the following hint:

    Incandescent lamp, W Fluorescent lamp, W LED lamp, W Luminous flux, Lm
    20 5–7 2–3 250
    40 10–13 4–5 400
    60 15–16 6–10 700
    75 18–20 10–12 900
    100 25–30 12–15 1200
    150 40–50 18–20 1800
    200 60–80 25–30 2500

    Taking into account the depth of the aquarium

    When passing through the water column, the brightness of the light becomes significantly less. It is believed that it loses half of this indicator every 10 cm of depth in the water column. For example, if the illumination at the surface of the water is about 2000 lux (lux), then after traveling only 50 cm, it will drop to 60 lux. Therefore, for deep aquariums it is necessary to make brighter lighting.

    Taking into account the depth of the aquarium to calculate lighting

    All inhabitants of the aquarium will feel good only if the optimal amount of light reaches the very bottom. The minimum level of illumination in the lower part of the tank should be from 60 to 90 lm. Knowing the size of the aquarium, the water column in it and the brightness, you can calculate how much light will reach the bottom. If the resulting value is less than the required norm, it is necessary to increase it to the required parameter.

    LED lighting power calculation

    If the aquarium is illuminated using LEDs, the optimal solution would be to use 0.2 W lamps. In this case, the calculation of LED lighting is performed taking into account the volume of the tank. The result will also depend on other parameters. For example, for an aquarium with a capacity of 200 liters, it is necessary to use a strip of 30 lamps or replace it with the installation of 25-40 spot LEDs.

    According to experienced aquarists, it is necessary to proceed from the rule that 0.5 W is enough for each liter of water. But here you need to take into account the depth of the aquarium and increase the brightness as needed.

    The easiest way to determine the correct power is to use visual selection. The entire volume of water in the aquarium should be illuminated to one degree or another. The light should be brighter near the surface. For snails and bottom fish, a smaller portion of light is enough. Other types of aquarium inhabitants can independently choose a comfortable level of lighting for themselves, raising it higher into brightly lit areas or hiding in the shadows at the bottom.

    Lamp installation location

    It is logical to place the lamps on top so that they shine like the sun's rays. But they can be located close to the water surface and rest on the edges of the tank, or they can be attached on a suspension at a distance of several tens of centimeters. The specific method depends on the number and type of lamps used. Moreover, if the lamps are installed far from water, then they must be more powerful to compensate for the scattering of light.

    Placing the lamp with emphasis on the edge of the aquarium

    Options for placing lighting on pendants may vary. You can use rods and attach them to the wall or floor, or lower the lights from the ceiling. There are options for installing hangers that rest on the edges of the tank.

    Lamps on pendants

    To prevent light loss, it is necessary to shield the lamps by covering them on top with reflective covers. Industrial lamps are usually covered with a thin sheet of polished stainless steel. For homemade lighting, foil is used for this purpose.

    Placement and number of lamps

    Most often, linear lamps are used to organize lighting for home aquariums. This is convenient for installation and uniform illumination. In this case, you can use one or more lamps. A single light source is positioned so that it covers all plants. To do this, the lamp must be kept at a distance of 2/5 of its width from the rear edge of the aquarium.

    You should not place the lamp in the center, since the bulk of the plants are usually located along the back wall of the tank, so the lighting there needs to be intense. If there are 2 or more lamps, the offset should still be the same. The uniform distribution of light is facilitated by the non-linear profile of the cover, which helps redirect light from the reflectors.

    With the help of reflectors, the light flux is distributed evenly

    If classic rather than linear lamps are used, they should be placed at equal intervals in several rows. A good solution to this problem would be to arrange the lamps in a checkerboard pattern. When installing several lamps, their power should be taken with some reserve.

    Lighting time

    When creating the backlight, you need to consider the time when it will work. In this matter, it is necessary to rely on the habits of the inhabitants and plants in the aquarium. Regardless of the time of year, daylight should last 12 hours. This mode is closest to the natural conditions of most aquarium inhabitants.

    Some aquarists try to compensate for poor-quality lighting by lengthening the daylight hours. It doesn't bring results. Water blooms from long daylight hours, which further reduces illumination. In addition, there is a need to replace it.

    In addition to the duration of lighting, you need to simulate midday in the aquarium. The light should be intense for 3-4 hours a day. At other times, its brightness must be reduced. To implement this mode, you need to use separate lamps controlled using toggle switches or controllers.

    Time relays installed in a socket

    Temporary relays will help make the process automated. Cheap models with electronic or mechanical control are available for sale. It is more convenient to use electronic ones with programming capabilities. They allow you to automatically adjust power supply and shutdown.

    Types of lamps

    Lighting for a home aquarium is made from lamps of any type. Depending on the lamps chosen, its efficiency, the amount of energy expended, the appearance and well-being of the inhabitants of the tank will differ.

    Selecting suitable luminaires requires taking into account several parameters. Much depends on the spectrum they emit. But the main criterion is taking into account technical characteristics selected lighting.

    Incandescent or halogen lamps

    Such lamps have similar pros and cons, so they should be considered together. Their positive qualities are that the light they emit is very similar to the spectrum of sunlight. Another advantage is affordable price such lamps.


    The disadvantage is their very low efficiency. Almost 97% of the energy they generate is converted into heat and only 3% is spent on producing light itself. Therefore, the use of lamps in this category will result in hefty electricity bills. An additional disadvantage is the excess heat, which needs to be eliminated by installing special coolers. But even the installation of such fans is not always able to solve the problem of heat removal.

    Metal halide lamps

    This type of lamp is suitable for herbal aquariums or for tanks with deep water. The light from such a lamp will have a wide spectrum of radiation, high brightness and the ability to descend to a significant depth. This kind of lighting creates light reflections and shadows from vegetation and living inhabitants at the bottom of the tank.


    Their main disadvantage is strong heating. Therefore, such lamps must be installed at intervals of more than 30 cm from the water surface.

    Fluorescent lamps

    There are several varieties of such lamps on sale. Conventional ones used in everyday life and labeled with NO have a low degree of luminescence. They can be used to illuminate tanks with a depth of up to 50 cm. Lamps marked HO and VHO with the same dimensions shine much brighter, which allows the beams to reach a significant depth.


    For illumination of aquariums, lamps marked T8 and slightly less often T5 are usually used. The latter have a diameter of 16 mm and give light twice as brightly, but their price is several times higher. T8 lamps with a diameter of 26 mm emit less light, but are more affordable. The replacement period for these lamps is the same, so cheap “eights” are usually used.

    There are fluorescent blue lamps on sale that are used to create a “pseudo-sea” and are turned on at night. They look very impressive, but do not give the fish a chance to rest, so it would be right to refuse such lighting.

    The main disadvantage of fluorescent lamps is that they burn out after some time. After six months, their light spectrum changes, so they have to be replaced, although the lamp is still in working condition. This leads to additional significant costs.

    LED

    Currently, aquariums are usually illuminated using LEDs. They practically do not heat up, provide a lot of light and consume little energy. Additional benefit is a wide range of colors and a long service life. They are safe to use as they only require 12V.

    Another advantage of LED lamps is that their brightness can be easily adjusted. This is very useful for beginner aquarists, since due to lack of experience it is difficult to select the illumination intensity right away.

    The disadvantage of LEDs is their high cost. Such lamps also emit thermal energy, although significantly less than incandescent lamps. In this case, thermal energy is produced by the lamp body, so to remove it, it is enough to mount the lamps on an aluminum plate, which will serve as a heat sink. You can mount the cooler on the back or simply raise it above the water surface.


    LED lamps come in different types:

    • Individual LEDs with a power of 1 or 3 W. Usually the latter are used, as they are more economical.
    • LED strips of good power have a high price. They are difficult to find on sale, but they are very easy to install.
    • LEDs in the form of conventional incandescent lamps. They are convenient in that they can be used instead of conventional incandescent lamps operating on a 220 V network. This opportunity is provided by a converter located in the base of the LED lamp.
    • Long tube-shaped ones look like fluorescent lamps, but are much smaller in size.

    LED spotlights

    With the help of such diodes, you can organize the illumination of the tank yourself. For greater effectiveness, some aquarists make it multi-colored, using blue lamps, burgundy or emerald shades of spotlights. Such an aquarium will look very unusual and fascinating.

    But such colored lighting cannot be used constantly. It is unnatural for fish and plants and is not at all like ordinary sun rays. Multi-colored lighting has a depressing effect on the inhabitants of the aquarium.

    Combined lighting

    Experienced aquarists prefer to use two or three types of lamps to create lighting. This allows you to create an optimal light supply and minimize energy costs. LED lamps are usually combined with fluorescent or metal halogen lamps. Some people prefer to combine all of these varieties.


    In reality, there are many options for creating optimal lighting. Lamps can also be selected according to light temperature. This gives the fish and plants different colors and creates different perceptions of the aquarium inhabitants. You need to choose a combination close to the spectrum of solar radiation that your pets will like.

When thinking that it would be nice to have an aquarium, you need to take care not only of the jar and its inhabitants. To successfully keep plants and fish, you need to properly illuminate the aquarium. There are special lamps for this, but they cost a lot, and making a simple one with your own hands is not difficult. You just need to figure out how many lamps are needed, what power and “color”.

When creating aquarium lighting, the main goal is to imitate sunlight as closely as possible. Since almost the entire aquarium “population” comes from the equator, it is necessary to recreate the tropical regime. Firstly, it is the same (or almost the same) duration of daylight throughout the year (10-12 hours).

Lighting an aquarium with your own hands is not an easy task, but everything can be done...

Secondly, variable lighting intensity: peak at noon and several subsequent hours and moderate lighting at other times of the day. If the lighting of the aquarium is done according to these principles, its inhabitants will delight you with bright colors, and the plants will delight you with lush greenery and rapid growth. Such “multi-level” lighting can be implemented using a large number of lamps (not one powerful one, but several less powerful ones) and a timer/controller that will automatically change the light level.

Lamp power calculation

A preliminary estimate of the lamp power required to illuminate an aquarium can be based on the common principle of determining required lighting by the amount of water in the container. Exactly water. Not the volume of the jar, but the amount of water. That is, the air gap and the volume displaced by soil must be subtracted from the volume of the container. Based on the amount of water received and the type of aquarium (sea, freshwater, herbal), and the type of inhabitants (bottom-dwelling, shade-loving or light-loving), the approximate required lighting power is calculated. Different types of aquariums have their own recommendations, which are summarized in a table for convenience.

According to this table

Knowing the volume of water in your aquarium, using this table it is easy to calculate the required lamp power. But the data is given for incandescent and halogen lamps. If you use them to illuminate the aquarium, no problem. If you decide to use other types, you will have to recalculate. You can do this again like this:

  • when using fluorescent lamps, their power is calculated as 1/3 of the found figure;
  • when installing LEDs - 1/7.

Approximately the same pattern is reflected in the next photo. You can also navigate using the table.

Don't think that's all. You also need to take into account a bunch of factors - the depth of the aquarium, the transparency of the water, the height of the light source... And each of these parameters can make adjustments to the found figure. Moreover, many aquarists believe that the optimal lighting for an aquarium can only be selected experimentally, since there are not so many “theoretical” calculations and it is simply unrealistic to take into account all the factors. So making aquarium lighting with your own hands is not easy. But we have already found the base - the approximate brightness of the light sources. You can rely on this figure and change it later.

Taking into account the depth of the aquarium

As you know, when passing through water, light significantly loses its brightness. It is generally accepted that every 10 cm takes away 50% of its brightness. That is, if the illumination on the surface is 2000 Lux, at a depth of 50 cm there will already be a little more than 60 Lux. This situation is clearly demonstrated in the following figure. Therefore, the higher the tank, the brighter the lighting should be.

The normal condition of the aquarium will only be if the light reaches its bottom in the required amount. The minimum illumination at the bottom should be 60-90 lm. Knowing the parameters of your container and the calculated brightness of the lighting, you can calculate the approximate amount of light that will reach the bottom. If it is below the specified norm, increase the brightness until it is within the required limits.

Arrangement of lamps for illuminating the aquarium

Most often, lamps for lighting an aquarium are placed on top. This is logical - the sun also shines from above. But the lamps can be located close to the surface of the water, resting on the edges of the jar, or they can be suspended - at a distance of several tens of centimeters from the water surface. The installation method is chosen depending on the amount of heat generated by the lamps. Just remember that hanging lights should be even brighter to compensate for the scattered light.


If there is only one lamp, it is shifted towards the largest concentration of plants - towards the back wall of the aquarium




If there is a need to hang a lamp, then everyone solves the problem in their own way. Depending on capabilities, ideas, level of skills or imagination. Some people make rods that are attached to the wall or floor, others lower pendants from the ceiling. Some craftsmen make supporting structures based on the edges of the can...

To get into the water maximum quantity light, the lamps are screened from above with reflective covers. In the factory version, this is most often a thin sheet of polished stainless steel, with self-production Foil is often used.

Number of lamps and their placement

Lighting in an aquarium is most often done using linear lamps. This is more convenient during installation, and the illumination is more uniform. There can be one or several tubes. If there is only one light source, you need to position it so that it illuminates all the plants. In this case, the tube is placed moving it away from the far edge of the jar by about 2/5 of its width. Why not in the middle? Because most of the plants are concentrated near the back wall and they require more light. If there are two or more tubes, they are still shifted more towards the back wall of the can - the reasons are still the same.

In any case, the nonlinear shape of the lid, in which reflectors redirect the light, also helps to redistribute the light more evenly. Companies involved in the production of aquarium equipment conduct research on this topic, and if they make their own aquarium lighting, they try to copy their developments. Moreover, homemade products often give better results.

When using classic-looking lamps, they are placed at equal intervals. Depending on the number of lamps - in one, two or three rows. If there are two or more rows, it is better to place them staggered - in a checkerboard pattern. If several lamps are used, when selecting their power, take a certain margin. After all, it has long been known that one 100 W lamp gives more light than two 50 W lamps.

Types of lamps for light in an aquarium

Selecting lamps for lighting an aquarium is not an easy task. It's not just about power, but also about the spectrum they emit. Selecting the spectrum or temperature of the glow is a complex and individual matter, but we will talk about choosing the type of lamps from the point of view of their technical characteristics.

Incandescent lamps

These lamps have two advantages - low cost and a spectrum as close as possible to that emitted by the midday sun. But these advantages are crossed out by two big disadvantages: high power consumption and a huge amount of heat emitted by the flask.

When using incandescent lamps to light an aquarium, the bills will be large. In addition to the costs of lighting itself, energy will be added to the operation of fans, with the help of which heat is removed. A large amount of heat also imposes restrictions on the materials used to make the lamp. They must be heat resistant. All this was the reason that these lamps were practically abandoned. There may be examples of single use in combined lighting - just to create a “midday” peak of illumination.

Aquarium lighting: fluorescent lamps

These lamps are more economical in terms of energy consumption - they draw 3 times less electricity. They come in two types - with a standard base or in the form of tubes (linear). They also heat up much less, but require special lamps, since special devices are needed to start them. These lamps have a minus - they change the spectrum of emitted light over time. Therefore, they are changed every 6-12 months. Even if they continue to work. The plants simply no longer “like” the light they emit, and they begin to wither.

Tubular fluorescent lamps come in different spectrums of emitted light. The choice here is very wide; you need to select it according to the “population” of the aquarium. They also come in three diameters, but T8 and T5 are usually used for illuminating aquarium plants. Moreover, the more popular one is T8. Although they are quite thick, they are much cheaper than the “fives”. And since you still need to change them at the same time, it’s more rational to buy “eights”.

There are three more technologies by which fluorescent lamps are produced. NO - household class lamps with a low level of luminescence. They can be used in shallow aquariums - with a water column height of no more than 50 cm. The two other classes VHO (Very High Output) and HO (High Output) shine brighter, but are also much more expensive. They can illuminate deeper containers.

Metal halide

These are very bright lamps that are used when the water column in the aquarium is 60 cm or higher. If you want to have “sunbeams” at the bottom, a play of light and shadow, you need MGL lamps. They look like a tube with clamped edges into which contact “legs” are inserted. They are inserted into special connectors that are attached to the lid of the aquarium. Metal halide lamps can also be supplied with a standard base.

The downside of this lamp is its considerable price and a significant amount of heat that is generated during operation. The price is compensated by the long service life, and the problem of heat removal is solved by hanging the lamp. The height is preferably at least 30 cm above the water level. The brightness of the lamp is high enough that there will still be enough light at the bottom.

LEDs

This type of lamp appeared relatively recently, but is gradually becoming more and more popular. LEDs have very good performance. Today they consume the least energy, have a long service life, can emit light of any spectrum and heat up little. They have a peculiarity - they operate on reduced voltage - 12 V or 24 V. To connect to a regular network, an adapter (converter) is required. This is not very convenient and requires additional costs, but increases safety, since such voltage is not dangerous to health. For a combination of these reasons, aquarium lighting is increasingly being done using LEDs.

They come in several forms:


What else attracts LEDs is that it is easy to adjust the brightness of the lighting by installing a regular regulator, or by creating a connection diagram so that you can turn them on gradually, quite accurately reproducing the change in illumination during daylight hours.

LEDs still emit heat during operation, but their body heats up. It is easier to remove such heat - mount them on a metal plate, and place a cooler on top (low-power and quiet fans). It is better to take aluminum ribbed plates, which are often called a radiator.

About the benefits of photosynthesis.

Light energy plays a key role in the life of the underwater world. It promotes the reproduction of inhabitants and the development of plants. Without sufficient radiation, they do not grow their own kind. Green algae turn pale and degrade.

However, the appearance of oxygen bubbles on plants confirms the rapid progress of photosynthesis and life extension. It intensifies with increasing intensity of light energy. The reaction occurs in layers of green plant cells. The chlorophyll present absorbs (collects) photons of blue and red light, and reflects other tones. With different radiation frequencies and wavelengths, measured in nanometers (n/m). Therefore, if this area occupies the range from 600 to 700 n/m, then it promotes the most intensive growth of leaves and plants.

  • Red and orange rays are the main, decisive energy of photosynthesis.
  • Violet and blue spectra create optimal conditions for its passage.

The concept of this process literally means: building from light and chemical elements, located in the water. Green plants convert carbon dioxide into food necessary for the inhabitants.

For an aquarium, the optimal lighting is the use of semiconductor devices - LEDs. Their radiation, close to the natural environment, has a positive effect on the development of flora and inhabitants.

How aquariums are lit.

Aquarium lighting with incandescent lamps (l/n)

Having the yellow spectrum necessary for plants. Favors the development of algae and phytoplankton. This light is not sufficient for some species, but it highlights the color of red and yellow fish well. A very bright lamp has a negative effect on the development of leafy plants. They become smaller, lose their green color, and the water blooms.

Placed above the aquarium, it heats up the water, making it uncomfortable for the fish. Sometimes l/n is supplemented with a universal luminescent type LBU, with an acceptable emission spectrum. They are mounted in a box placed on top of the aquarium and with reflective foil inserted.

Aquarium lighting with fluorescent lamps.

With diffused light of white and blue, wide spectrum, economical, durable. The ratio of half a watt of power per liter of water is enough for optimal lighting. To illuminate a container of up to 500 liters, two lamps with a reflector are enough. Lush plants (Dutch) are illuminated with a source with a warm spectrum in the range of 1200-1800 K. For bottom topography and predatory fish, cold light of about 6700 K is suitable.

  • Nanometer (n/m) is a unit of wavelength of light equal to 10 -9 meters.
  • Incandescent lamps (l/n).
  • (K) stands for Kelvin. Unit of thermodynamic temperature.

Aquarium lighting LED lamps(s.d.l).

This is the most progressive lighting method. Economical, do not emit heat. Their evenly scattering spectrum is suitable for aquarium plants, without causing any inconvenience to fish. Used as an additional lighting option. Expanding the spectral range, it is used in combination with traditional radiation sources.

LED spotlights are suitable for aquariums without a lid. Its bright beam reaches the bottom of a reservoir of any size. It is enough to use 1-3 pcs. s/d 10 W, 10.0 thousand K. and luminous flux 450-900 lm. Or 20 W, having 1600 lm and a temperature of 6400 K.

For a 100-liter, rectangular shape, choose one with a power of 50 W or 2 of 25. The spotlight does not emit heat that heats the water.

  • SDL - LED lamp.
  • SL - tape.
  • LED is a light emitter.
  • LED is understood as an emitting semiconductor device.

Aquarium lighting with LED spotlights.

LED lamps for aquarium.

Their mounting is suitable for aquarium wall thicknesses up to 12 mm. Can be installed on any type of lid. The lamp serves as both main and additional lighting. Figure 3, 4. Water-repellent design. During short-term immersion, they do not lose their properties and parameters.

Presented in six models. For fresh environments. Power supply via 48V DC driver 1. Sufficient radiation spectrum. Three-channel independent light control with a programmable controller. Creates various visual scenarios. Changes color temperature in the range of 6.5-15.0 thousand K.

The radiating elements are arranged in a structure designed for quick installation on the side wall of the aquarium, secured with a special lock. It has two color spectrum options provided by 6 W diodes. Available in black or white casing. Energy-saving appliances are used. Don't need maintenance. Advantages of LED lamps. Modern design. The design uses components from well-known suppliers. Easy installation. Safe supply voltage.

  • Driver is a device that provides voltage access to the consumer.
  • LM - magnitude (unit) of luminous flux.

LED aquarium lighting calculation.

The first definition is approximate and amounts to half a watt of power per liter of water and a luminous flux of 40 lm. That is, a volume of 100 liters will require a total power of 50 watts. Most often, SD is used in the range from 0.2 to a maximum of 3.0. Therefore, based on the lighting power, the number of emitters is determined.

Sometimes such parameters are selected visually or on the advice of experienced aquarists: separately for living inhabitants and plants. For the latter, there is a special calculator for selecting the number of semiconductor emitters. It is designed for different heights of aquariums. For shallow ones - up to 450 mm and more than this size. Enter the following data.

  • Dimensions of the container.
  • Type of vegetation.
  • The proposed brand of LEDs indicating the thermodynamic temperature up to 8.0 thousand K.
  • Current 350-700 mA.
  • Illumination 139-300 lm.
  • This calculator calculates the number of drivers and power supplies for 24 and 36 V.

Selecting a source based on light output.

For a standard size aquarium (height 50 cm), the parameters indicated in the table are suitable.

Deep-sea tanks are illuminated with more powerful devices and enhanced light output. In order to save money, it is preferable to choose with the same characteristics. Comparative figures are shown in the table below.

Pay attention to the color spectrum. There is an opinion that sources of yellow and red light are suitable for the development of aquarium plants. There is another view - to simultaneously combine several different lamps, the radiation of which affects the illumination and visual impression.

SMD is a semiconductor emitting device. The abbreviation (Surface Mounted Device) stands for a product suitable for mounting on a plane. The numbers indicate the dimensions of the elements in mm.

Selecting an installation location.

The placement of lamps is preliminarily specified. Inside the aquarium, under the lid in front, on the sides or on the back. To create a shimmering effect on plants or fish, colored lamps are placed in front. The daytime one is set up above an open reservoir, brightly illuminating the flora and fauna. Monochrome with dl is attached around the perimeter. And if the brightness is insufficient, its length is increased. It additionally illuminates the water. For an aquarium without vegetation, original color lighting is used with RGB tape.

Why choose LED

This modern version aquarium devices. LEDs take precedence among lighting devices due to their economical energy consumption (about 70%) as well as their technical characteristics.

  • The spectral range of illumination and illumination is favorable for the existence of underwater inhabitants and flora.
  • The quality, color range, and lighting characteristics are stable throughout the entire period of use, more than four years. A sign of diode degradation is a drop in luminous flux.
  • It goes to any part of the aquarium. The light intensity is gradually adjusted to increase or decrease.
  • The low voltage used is safe when operating the devices. Works stably even with power supply fluctuations.
  • No periodic replacement of parts is required.
  • During operation, they do not emit excess heat, which negatively affects the temperature regime of the aquarium. Therefore, less demands are placed on the cooling system.
  • LEDs are an environmentally friendly device. The composition does not contain substances harmful to health, ultraviolet and infrared radiation.
  • Resistant to mechanical stress.

RGB - capital letters mean many colors of light. Read, Green, Blue.

DIY aquarium LED lighting.

Observe safety precautions when working with electricity near a container of water: turn off the mains voltage, and do not allow water to get on the uncovered parts of the lamp.

Lighting of a 40 liter pond.

To manufacture the device you must have the following.

LED placement.

A cover of the appropriate size for mounting 16 one-watt LEDs in it. Including white tone 10 pcs., 4 red and 2 blue. This range of color selection ensures optimal plant growth. White diodes with a glow temperature of 6500 K and a flux of 100 lm. The driver (power supply) is sufficient for 1-watt LEDs in the amount of 12-18 pcs.

Into the cover with inside install aluminum plates that serve as radiators. They are attached super glue. Additionally, they are placed on substrates 1 (stars), which also play the role of a heat sink. Figure 1. Diodes are attached with thermal paste. The radiator area is quite sufficient to cool 16 elements. Having drilled the holes, then fasten the SD with screws.

White LEDs are located on the outer rows. Middle: red and blue. All elements are connected in a sequential circuit - “plus” to “minus”. The output is connected to the driver, on the other side of the cover. First, they check the quality of the installation of the diodes by the glow inside, and then make sure after installing it on the aquarium.

For a volume of 200 liters

Use SD 40 pcs. power 3 W. Sometimes the brightness of light is determined by the following ratio: one second watt per liter of water. However, with increasing depth these figures double. LED lighting in the lower layers should ensure photosynthesis of plants and the release of the required amount of oxygen.

Sometimes they arrange lunar night illumination by connecting a small section of blue LED. It is placed at the level of the bottom of the reservoir from the back wall of the aquarium. The timer turns it on at the set time.

Necessary materials, tools.

  • LED lamps 40 pcs.
  • Connectors (sockets) 40 pcs.
  • The wire is copper.
  • Plastic profile (gutter) 2.5 m, width 10 cm.
  • Current source (12 volts).
  • Tool, milling cutter 48 mm for machining holes.
  • The substrate is a flexible plate with elements.
  • Timer is a device for temporary switching of an electrical circuit.
  • Cooler - cooling unit.

Device manufacturing technology.

Prepare two pieces of profile along the length of the aquarium. In the bottom one meter long, checkerboard pattern, drill 20 holes. The diodes are inserted and secured. Each is connected in parallel to b p 1. The cooler (fan) is mounted in places of increased heating of the lid or abundant evaporation.

LED lighting in the aquarium.

To manufacture the device, standard components, materials, and tools are required. Tape with 12 elements. 12 volt current source. The connection connector is made of a two-wire 1.5 mm copper wire. The plastic flask (vessel) is taken the length of the installation site. Drill, soldering iron. Silicone and related materials.
Step-by-step technology. To pass the wire through, holes are drilled in the cover.
On the back side of the board, pieces of foam rubber are glued in three places, avoiding its sagging. Solder the wires to the current-carrying tracks. Place the tape in the flask, close the lids and seal the joints with sealant. Seal the hole properly, avoiding water getting inside. After connecting the connector, check the device by connecting it to the power supply. The finished backlight is connected through a timer socket, having programmed the switching. It is taken into account that the device must operate for 11-14 hours. Figure 2.
1.B.P. - abbreviated power supply unit.

LED strip for aquarium use in lighting.

Using LED strip lighting.

Below are step by step instructions installation of optimal lighting for the aquarium.

  • Set of tools.
  • A lid (box) for placing parts and finished units.
  • Protective glass that protects them from moisture.
  • LED strip type 3528 with 60 elements per meter. B p 12 volts.
  • Soldering iron
  • related materials
  • copper wire.

Manufacturing technology.

Four segments are cut along the length of the lid, according to the markings on the tape. Each 5 cm module contains 3 pieces. LEDs.
The ends are cleaned, exposing two current-carrying paths from the silicone film. One of them is positive, the second is negative. This operation is performed with all four segments. Seven ends are prepared for soldering, except for the eighth, which is not used in the diagram.
First, connect two segments into one tape, observing the “+” and “-” indications. Check operation by connecting to a power supply that has the same polarity symbols. And also perform with two other segments.
The connecting wires are measured in length in advance, avoiding sagging when installing the cover. Having soldered, the four segments are checked by connecting to the b/p. Control wire connections. All contacts are protected with insulating sealant. The prepared tape circuit is ready for installation.
It is degreased with acetone, alcohol, and solvent. Then, with the adhesive part of the CD, all four strips are pressed.
Rubber stops are fixed at the corners of the cover, adding rigidity to the structure. They hold the protective glass, which has been previously wiped.
Having installed it on rubber stops, all joints around the perimeter are filled with sealant.
To avoid contact with the body of the aquarium, the same pieces are glued to the protective glass of the lid, serving as a stop.
The finished device is checked by connecting to the power supply.

Finished products for homemade work.

Diodes with the required parameters are selected from the existing assortment in light or aquarium stores. RGB strips, various power LEDs, as well as STAR circuit boards (stars). Matrices 10-100 watts. Lenses, aluminum boards, radiators of different sizes, current sources for 300-4500 mA, dimmer 2 starting from 350 mA, impenetrable and open LEDs, RGB controllers 3. Soft wires 1.5 mm. Fans for a personal computer for 12 V. Sockets and connectors for mounting lamps. Necessary components produced by popular manufacturers of LED products: Aquael, Hagen, Juwel, Aqua medic, Dennerie, Sera.

  • Adapter is a connecting device.
  • Dimmer is an electronic design that expands the functionality of LED lamps.
  • RGB controller - a device for controlling the radiation mode and adjusting the light.

LED spotlights in the aquarium with remote control.

LED lighting with aerator

For an aquarium with a capacity of 115 l. A lamp with waterproof diodes is used, which operate reliably and stably when submerged. The kit includes a remote control with colored buttons and clear, intuitive controls. These are: “Start”, “Stop”. Light adjustment: “more”, “less”. Lighting options and color choice. For example, by turning on the normal mode of one shade step by step, adjust from the minimum level to the maximum. Evaluated depending on visual perception. And so on, throughout the entire range contained in the control panel program. In addition, there are four other adjustment options: flickering in all colors, switching to a smooth flow into any color, or making a magnificent night light out of an aquarium.
The delivery set includes a lamp with 12 diodes, attached to the bottom with two suction cups. It has a hole for air hoses. Adapter, infrared receiver, control panel connected via USB connector.

Home aquarium lighting is the most best way transform a piece of the underwater kingdom and draw attention to it. High-quality lighting provides comfortable conditions for water inhabitants: fish and plants. After all, they do not always have enough natural daylight, even when the aquarium is installed near large window. Making an aquarium lamp yourself is not difficult. The main thing is to accurately calculate the lighting parameters and take into account the installation rules.

Purpose of backlight

Light plays a key role in an aquarium with fish and plants. If there is insufficient lighting, the living inhabitants will begin to get sick and may die. However, the survival of aquarium inhabitants is only half the battle. It is required that they develop and grow correctly.

To provide favorable living conditions for plants and fish, let’s consider what the lighting should be like. The choice of light sources for the aquarium is made taking into account the species of fish and flora. The following factors depend on the type of lamp in a home pond:

  • Health of the inhabitants.
  • Coloring of plants and fish.
  • Plant growth rate.
  • Carrying out photosynthesis.
  • The ability to reproduce higher representatives of the plant world and their lower rivals - algae.
The choice of lighting option depends on the inhabitants of the aquarium

Let's give an example. Mushroom sea anemones brought from the tropics lose their properties and viability when exposed to intense daylight. And Tridacna mollusks and corals in natural conditions live at shallow depths and need an intense light flux to maintain their vital functions. Certain species of fish and plants require actinic glow in the blue spectrum. This light powers algae photosynthesis.

Taking into account the described factors, the aquarist should take it seriously, taking into account a number of important factors.

Beginners may come up with the idea of ​​placing a fish tank near a window to provide them with light. But this cannot be done, because:

  • Under the influence natural light Small algae actively reproduce in the water.
  • The sun's rays will overheat the water, especially during the hot season.

So best solution– the use of artificial light that simulates daylight.

Night illumination of an aquarium has its own specifics. In nature, not a single body of water remains overnight in absolute darkness. The waters of freshwater springs and oceans are illuminated by moonlight. Therefore, it is important to provide creatures living in water with proper lighting even at night.

Backlight Features

Before you start organizing lighting in your home pond, please note that different types of lamps have different effects on the inhabitants of the “underwater kingdom”. Artificial light sources of LED, halogen, and fluorescent types have their own emission spectrum.

In large aquariums, it becomes necessary to combine several different sources, but in home tanks, you can use one type of lamp.


Combined lighting creates an attractive look

High-quality and correctly created lighting for an aquarium will manifest itself immediately. First of all, this affects appearance its inhabitants. Plants and fish have healthy and rich colors with their characteristic shades. Tropical inhabitants of a home pond should be vigorous and active, and have a good appetite.

If the lighting is not organized correctly, you will notice cloudiness of the liquid in the aquarium and the appearance of flowering. This is a sign that the spectrum of light entering the reservoir provokes the growth and reproduction of protozoan algae. Fish in such a “house” greedily swallow air, stick to the surface of the water, experiencing oxygen starvation - this is a sure symptom of excess light.

The color spectrum of light is also of great importance if you keep plants in an aquarium environment. To ensure the process of photosynthesis, representatives of the flora require the presence of two color ranges:

  • Blue-violet – 440 nm long.
  • Orange-red – up to 700 nm long.

It should be noted that classic fluorescent lamps do not provide the proper illumination spectrum for the plant inhabitants of the aquarium. Special phytolamps allow you to fully organize the required illumination. Another alternative is LED lighting, provided by LED devices.

Thus, the main goal of illuminating a reservoir is to recreate natural conditions for the life of organisms. The first thing to consider is the light cycle between day and night. Daylight is recreated using artificial lamps that glow in the required spectrum, which does not contribute to the proliferation of small algae. Properly selected lamps will provide an ideal imitation of daylight for fish and plants.


Linear fluorescent lamps for aquariums

To organize dim light at night, lunar LEDs are used. Such sources create soft light, making it possible to observe the night behavior of underwater inhabitants. Lighting does not interfere with their rest, does not affect their health, and does not affect natural behavior with the onset of spawning.

Ensuring that the correct light cycle is maintained at night and during the day is essential for your home pond to thrive. To do this, you can use a timer to remember to switch the lamps in time.

Features of choosing suitable lamps

A lot depends on the type of lamps you choose to provide light for your aquarium. Therefore, pay special attention to this issue. To organize artificial lighting in an aquarium environment, take into account the power and spectral parameters of light sources.

Incandescent lamps

Incandescent light bulbs help aquarium plants grow and reproduce intensively. And if there are fish with red scales in your home pond, then in this light they look more attractive. Lamps with such lamps are easy to manufacture and affordable. However, they have a number of disadvantages:

  • High power consumption.
  • Radiation of heat that heats the walls of the aquarium and the water.
  • If water gets on a burning light bulb, it will burst, and its fragments will scatter throughout the aquarium - the consequences of such an incident are far from favorable.
  • When illuminated by incandescent lamps, aquarium water blooms vigorously.
  • Fragility of light sources. If you turn on the lamp every day for 8–10 hours in a row, it will work for up to 1 month. However, it is possible to increase the service life of the lamp if you turn on the device in half the channel. To do this, connect two identical light bulbs in series or connect a semiconductor diode in series connection.

When choosing incandescent lamps, it is important not to make a mistake with the power. Recommended parameters: from 1.2 to 1.5 watts per 1 liter of water. So, to illuminate a 100-liter aquarium, use one 100-watt lamp.


Incandescent lamps for aquarium

Fluorescent lamps

Most aquarium lights use fluorescent lamps. They have the following advantages:

  • Wide spectrum of radiation.
  • Produce little heat.
  • They illuminate a large area of ​​​​the water surface due to an even luminous flux.
  • Their spectrum contains actinic light.

The disadvantage of fluorescent light sources is the reduction in luminous flux during use. After 5–6 months, the lamps will shine weaker. They will have to be replaced. But if several bulbs of this type are used in the aquarium, it is not recommended to change them at the same time. It is better to do this one at a time to avoid sudden changes in lighting.

Types of fluorescent lamps for aquarium lighting:

  • Standard light sources.
  • Fluorescent.

The latter, in turn, are divided into:

  • HighOutput(HO).
  • VeryHighOutput (VHO).

Option for using a compact fluorescent lamp for an aquarium

Metal halide lamps

Experienced aquarium owners often choose metal halide light sources to create quality fixtures. These lamps create the effect of a play of light in a pond, imitating the natural flicker of sunlight in shallow water.

Advantages of MG lamps:

  • Providing a level of illumination that cannot be obtained when using fluorescent lamps. The equivalent number of tubes simply will not fit into the aquarium lid. When receiving the same amount of light, MG lamps consume less energy than fluorescent lamps.
  • MG spotlights provide directional illumination falling perpendicular to the surface. As a result, the rays reach the very bottom and provide light to all aquarium inhabitants. Therefore, such lamps are suitable for tall aquariums.
  • MG is suitable for open aquariums.

MG lamps also have a drawback - they emit heat. Therefore, during operation of the lamps, it is necessary to ensure that the water is cooled to optimal temperature. Another disadvantage of such sources is the high price.

LED strips and lamps

The use of LED light sources has become relevant: lamps or strips for aquarium lighting. The advantages of such lamps are obvious:

  • Durability.
  • Reliability.
  • Optimal ratio of brightness and power.
  • Safety – LED lighting is harmless to fish and plants.
  • No water heating.
  • Easy to install lighting yourself.
  • LED lamps do not contain harmful chemicals, such as phosphorus or mercury, like fluorescent lamps.

Since LEDs do not heat the water during operation, aquarium owners do not have to worry about the aquarium cooling system or installing additional ventilation.

Another advantage of using LED backlights is that they do not require periodic replacement, as when using fluorescent lamps. During the use of LEDs, their luminescence spectrum does not change, and a high-quality lamp can operate for up to 5 years.


Homemade LED lighting for an aquarium

By design, the LEDs in the light bulb are assembled into an array in such a way that if one element fails, the operation of the lamp does not stop. This type The lighting will remain on until the last LED stops working. And when using a set of fluorescent lamps, the breakdown of one bulb significantly reduces the lighting level of the aquarium.

Disadvantages of using LEDs for aquarium lighting:

  • LEDs operate by constant current and low voltage of 3.3V. living conditions alternating current, has a voltage of 220 V. To power the lamps, a special unit is required that converts the mains voltage 220 V into required voltage for backlight operation. The power supply cannot be hidden under the lid, however, it can be placed in any invisible place above the lid.
  • High cost of LED devices. However, taking into account their long term service and low energy consumption, this disadvantage can be considered relative.

When choosing an LED strip, consider the type and size of your aquarium. If the fish live in salt water, you will need higher wattage lamps than for a freshwater tank. Also, the number and power of lamps depends on the volume of the “fish house”.

Determination of lamp power

Before making the backlight, it is important to correctly calculate the lamp power and light output suitable for your conditions. Of course, each case has its own nuances, which the aquarium owner will have to figure out in his own practice. But there are universal tips:

  • To supply soft and calm lighting, 0.2–0.3 watts per liter of water is enough.
  • Bright lighting is provided by 0.5–0.8 watts per liter.
  • If the aquarium is heavily populated with plants and fish, 0.8–1 watt per liter is recommended.

Please note that this calculation is based on systems with energy-saving lamps, and is incorrect for incandescent lamps or halogen appliances.

Light output calculation

Light output – important indicator aquarium lighting. For average size walls of 0.5 meters, the light output is calculated from 30 to 50 lm per liter. Approximate light output values, taking into account the volume of the aquarium:

  • For a 25-liter – 700–1500 lm.
  • For a 60-liter - 1600–3000 lm.
  • For a 100-liter - 3000–5000 lm.
  • For a 140-liter - 4000–7000 lm.
  • For a 200-liter - 6000–10000 lm.

What is the lighting made of?

For making homemade lighting You will need an aquarium lid or frame. Make the frame from wood or OSB boards. You can also use plexiglass or plastic materials, but it is better not to, since they are susceptible to deformation under the influence of heat. And depending on the lamp used, the heat output can be high. If you don't have an aquarium lid, make one yourself.

Cover the inside of the frame with foil that reflects light. This will direct all the light radiation inside the aquarium. When making backlights with metal halide and fluorescent light sources, use special fasteners. With their help, the lamps are attached securely and firmly to the inside of the cover. The next stage of installation is connecting the wires and insulating exposed areas.


Reflector for aquarium

Installation of LED strips as lighting is simpler. The tape is connected to the power supply, then removed protective coating on the back, and glue the LED bulbs onto the aquarium lid.

Expert opinion

Alexey Bartosh

Specialist in repair and maintenance of electrical equipment and industrial electronics.

Ask a question to an expert

Attention! Moisture evaporates from the aquarium water. It condenses on the lid and can cause the LEDs to burn out. Therefore, for such operating conditions, LED strips equipped with special protection against water are better suited.

After completing the installation, be sure to glue the places where the LED and stabilizer wires are connected. To do this, use silicone sealant.

For the normal functioning of almost any aquarium, depending on the number of fish, and especially plants, inhabiting the tank, light of different quality is required. The time has passed when the aquarium was illuminated. Technological progress does not stand still, and now LED lamps are actively moving the usual fluorescent lamps from their place.

Due to their special properties, they are used for aquariums not only as illumination, but also as the main source. This article will discuss various lighting options for aquariums, and also highlight the nuances of calculations when selecting LEDs.

Why LEDs

First of all, you should decide whether it is necessary to install LED aquarium lighting. Maybe this is a simple fashion trend and spending certain amounts of money imposed on the consumer? To understand this issue, it is enough to consider the benefits that can be obtained from using LED lighting:

  • efficiency;
  • better compliance with light parameters in comparison with fluorescent lamps;
  • wide design possibilities;
  • duration of operation;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • good mechanical protection against damage.

The main reason for the introduction of LEDs is, of course, economic. The fact is that with the same power, LED lamps emit many times more light. Therefore, the conventional lamp is replaced with a much less powerful LED lamp, which significantly saves the cost of lighting the aquarium.

The second important reason for using LEDs is to match the lighting parameters to natural light. Moreover, for specific cases, you can play with the parameters of the LEDs and choose options that are more necessary for the fastidious plants of the tropics.

The environmental component should not be ignored either. After all, LED aquarium lighting is harmless, since the material does not contain mercury compounds. In addition, the heating of LEDs is not as strong as compared to other lamps, and especially incandescent lamps.

Features of selection

Having decided on the installation of LEDs for the aquarium, before going to buy them, it is important to take into account the composition of the inhabitants. After all, if you keep mainly fish, then there is no special selection provided. Of course, you can set a goal and make lighting for a more advantageous appearance of the inhabitants of the underwater world. But basically, for an aquarium with fish, ordinary light is enough to make it convenient to view them.

It’s a completely different question if plants are bred in an aquarium. Especially if your plans include a “Dutch” aquarium with a large number of rare and whimsical plants. In these cases, lighting the aquarium with LED lamps requires preliminary calculation, taking into account the spectral demands of plants. In addition to the luminous flux parameter, which is measured in lumens, you will need to remember such as illumination in lux and light temperature in kelvin.

Types of LED lighting for aquariums

LED aquarium lighting can be designed structurally in various ways. Depending on the methods of placing LEDs, there are:

  • LED strips;
  • lamps;
  • LED spotlights.

The use of this or that equipment will depend first of all on the contents of the aquarium, and then on its size. To a lesser extent on design features LEDs will be affected by the shape of the aquarium and the presence and use of its lid.

If you have the opportunity to make LED aquarium lighting with your own hands, you should not miss it. In this case, in addition to saving on equipment, you can get an individually developed and implemented design. In addition to skills in working with electricity, you will need: a 12-volt power supply, wires and the actual LED lamps.

LED lamps

The simplest option for creating LED lighting in an aquarium is LED lamps. This is primarily suitable for small aquariums up to 50 l. Their covers often already contain sockets intended for conventional classic incandescent lamps with E27 and E14 sockets. For such options, all that remains is to select and purchase a light bulb of the required power and light temperature.

More expensive options will be ready-made rectangular-shaped LED panels of a certain length for ready-made aquariums of standard sizes. This LED aquarium light will be very easy to install. For example, you can look at equipment from the well-known company Aqualighter.

LED spotlights

Aquarium lighting with LED spotlights is a very good option for open-lid aquariums. The LED spotlight is a very bright lamp that can easily reach the bottom of an aquarium of any size and depth. Only one to three of them are required, depending on the size. For example, for a rectangular 100-liter aquarium, one 50 W spotlight or 2 x 25 W spotlights will be enough. In the case of the “Dutch” version of light, you need 1.5-2 times more light. That is, it is 1 spotlight at 100 W or 2 at 50 W.

LED strips

Until recently, illuminating an aquarium with LED strip was only possible for small containers. Or it was used as a backlight for other types of lamps. This is explained by the fact that the first LED strips were made on the first generation SMD 3528. Their luminous flux is only 5 lumens with a power of 0.1 W. Therefore, a 5-meter strip with 300 LEDs has a power of 30 W. For an aquarium with good plants these 5 meters are only enough for 30 liters, which is structurally difficult to implement.

Now there are strips containing more powerful LEDs of the new generation SMD 5050, SMD 5630 and SMD 5730. To illuminate most aquariums, including “Dutch” ones, SMD 5050 strips are already enough, which are only 2 times more powerful (0.2 W), and each emit 18 lumens of light. A 5-meter LED strip, including 300 of these LEDs, easily illuminates a 100-liter aquarium. And this is when used as main lighting.

SMD 5630 and SMD 5730 LEDs have a power of 0.5 W each and emit 40 and 55 lumens, respectively. When using them in lighting, it is necessary to consider cooling due to the stronger heating.

LED lighting calculation

The calculation for an aquarium is made based on approximate standards for this type of tank. For example, it is assumed that 1 liter of aquarium water requires 0.5 W of lighting power and 40 Lm of luminous flux. At the same time, there are nuances, taking into account which the initial data can change significantly.

  • An aquarium for breeding rare, fancy plants, the so-called Dutch one, requires a luminous flux of 0.8-1 W per liter of volume and a luminosity of 60 or more lumens per liter.
  • Aquariums with elongated shapes and significant depth also require brighter lighting, which is selected individually. It is approximately believed that with every 10 cm of depth, the luminous flux decreases by 50%.

You should also remember that if the lighting is incorrectly selected, there can be two main options. If there is a lack of light, the plants will wither and produce oxygen poorly, which, in turn, can have a detrimental effect on the fish. In case of excessive luminous flux, there may be rapid growth both plants and simple algae. Externally, this can manifest itself in cloudy water and overgrowing of the walls of the aquarium. This is especially bad for new tanks, when the main plants are just growing and have no vigor. In this case, the simplest algae grow much faster.

With your own hands

There are several ways to install LED lighting for an aquarium with plants. Let's look at the most popular lighting options using LED strips. For example, let's take a 100-liter aquarium and a 5-meter LED strip, including 300 SMD 5050 LEDs of 0.2 W each. Taking it as a fact that for the natural development of plants, the light flux is best directed from top to bottom, let's consider several options.

  1. We place the LED strip on the top cover of the aquarium in the form of a snake. The rings can be placed in any direction, but the density of the LEDs must be uniform. Then the tape is glued with a special silicone glue that is not afraid of moisture. If the kit already includes a starting device with a power supply, then we simply place it with outside for better heat transfer. If there is no starter, you must either purchase it separately or construct it from a computer power supply. At this point the work is considered completed.
  2. In the second option, the LED strip is wound on a cylindrical profile in the form of a fluorescent lamp. The result is a neat cylindrical LED lamp. If necessary, you can take two cylindrical lamps from one LED strip. Of course, the result is not professional LED aquarium lighting, but such lamps will perform their main functions well.
  3. If you have blanks and forms from the LED strip, you can make a figure of any configuration. The volumetric chandelier (or several chandeliers) obtained in this way can be attached to any in a convenient way either to the lid of the aquarium, or to special brackets in the walls if the aquarium is open.

How to easily choose LED lighting

To easily select LED equipment, follow the following plan:

  • decide on the contents and inhabitants of the aquarium;
  • taking into account all the parameters, make a calculation based on the standard of 0.5 W per liter;
  • decide whether the lighting will be made with your own hands or purchased ready-made;
  • knowing the power of the luminous flux and the configuration of the aquarium, choose the design of LED lighting - lamps, lamps, strips or spotlights;
  • select the required amount of equipment;
  • install a ready-made LED lamp for an aquarium or assemble it from selected components.

For those wishing to install LED lighting underwater, remember that you need to choose equipment with 68. While the standard version IP 65 implies only short-term spraying, but no more.

Selecting a manufacturer of LED elements

Aquarium lighting with LED lamps is becoming increasingly popular. Today, LED lighting is offered by several companies:

  • Aqua Med.
  • Aquael.
  • Hagen.
  • Juwel.
  • Sera.
  • Dennerle.

In addition to those officially existing, there is a huge list of companies from China where LED products can be purchased for a lower amount. In this case, you will have to check the quality yourself. But one thing is known for sure: the parameters of Chinese LEDs differ by an order of magnitude to a lesser extent. That is, if the luminosity of European and Japanese LEDs corresponds to the parameters, then the Chinese ones will shine weaker.

Conclusion

LED lamps for aquariums are actively used to replace outdated fluorescent lamps. The obvious advantages and ease of use are receiving more and more positive responses from aquarium enthusiasts.