Impregnation of wood is a necessary operation that extends their service life. It should be carried out even if oak and other species are processed appropriately for sale (for example, according to the indicator relative humidity). The reason is the unfavorable operating conditions of the floorboard: high operating loads, and frequently changing surface moisture of the wood.

Possible methods of surface impregnation of wood

Impregnation at home oak boards can be done:

• special parquet varnishes;
• compositions based on oil-wax mixtures;
• refreshing blends that restore shine wooden covering.

The last option relates more to maintaining appearance already treated oak board, so this impregnation is not deep. Rather, this technology is reminiscent of cleaning a wooden floor, and therefore can be done once a week, or even more often.

Surface wood fresheners - polishes - also have a similar effect. High-quality polishes can temporarily restore the original color of wood and emphasize its texture.

Such technologies are used a month or two after the final installation of the parquet board.

Unlike the above methods, impregnation is carried out at the stage of laying the coating or immediately after that. It assumes:

Impregnation using parquet varnishes

All compounds in this group, without exception, are extremely toxic, which must be taken into account when choosing this method of impregnating wood. Treatment should be carried out in well-ventilated areas, at air temperatures up to 25°C (at more high temperatures varnishes begin to evaporate even more intensely), as well as with the use individual funds protection: goggles and gauze bandage (or respirator).

The toxicity of board impregnation varnishes depends on the type of solvent. Varnishes are produced at water based and based on synthetic solvents. Water-based varnishes are much less toxic, although they dry somewhat slower. However, in this case, this is not a disadvantage, but rather an advantage of the composition: quick-drying impregnating varnishes are very demanding on the quality of their application, and with insufficient experience of the performer, they leave behind clearly defined streaks. They can only be eliminated by re-varnishing the wood, and this leads to increased consumption of varnish and prolongation of work.

A clear advantage of parquet varnishes is their durability. Oak treated with such compounds will subsequently require only cosmetic maintenance of cleanliness and texture, which can be achieved by applying polish of the required color to the surface of the floorboard. Sometimes stains are successfully used to maintain the external texture of oak coverings.

Impregnation using oil-wax compounds

This impregnation technology is much “cleaner” from an environmental point of view, since it uses non-toxic components of natural origin.

Oil-wax mixtures are used not only for impregnation, but also for restoration of damaged areas of the board. Advantages this method impregnations:

1. Giving the coating antistatic characteristics. Due to processing oil compositions the risk of static electricity accumulation on the surface of oak parquet boards is reduced. When treated with varnishes, the antistatic effect does not occur, which is explained by polarization organic solvent during the process of applying it to the surface of the wood.
2. The oil-wax surface is warmer to the touch, which is explained by the increased heat capacity of the impregnation components. Therefore, the treated rooms will be warmer in winter.
3. The relatively low volatility of the oil allows it to penetrate into the internal structure of the oak board to a considerable depth. As a result, wood porosity decreases and density increases.
4. The presence of wax gives the impregnating composition the ability to cover minor surface defects in wood that can arise, for example, from the claws of pets.
5. Wax itself is a water-repellent composition, so the board will not suffer from excess moisture, for example, when washing floors.
6. Wax-oil impregnations can be used to treat any room in the house. Most often they process boards made of oak, ash, and larch.

Technology of work execution

Impregnation of wood with parquet varnish is carried out in two layers. The subsequent one is superimposed in a direction perpendicular to the previous one. Due to the rapid setting of the composition, it is recommended to carry out the treatment with a hard, wide brush.

There are much more subtleties in applying an impregnating composition based on oil-wax components. The difficulty stems from the fact that the working mixture for impregnation contains several dissimilar components.

This includes the actual oil, wax, resinous substances that give the finished surface shine and reduce its porosity, as well as a very small amount of chemical stabilizers that provide the impregnation with resistance to changing conditions of temperature and relative humidity.

The quality of processing is determined by the characteristics of the oil. It is divided into three types:

1. High density, with large percentage resin Impregnation of boards using this oil is considered the most durable.
2. Regular density, to which various dyes are often added - from light brown to lemon yellow. This makes it easier to select an impregnating composition to match the texture and color of the board (for oak, dark-colored compositions are used).
3. Whitening oils, with the help of which the color of the finishing surface becomes lighter. More often they are used to process light wood species (linden, pine, maple), but sometimes bleaching oak increases the expressiveness of the floorboard.

Before impregnation, the necessary preparatory work: The oak board is sanded and surface putty is applied to fill minor defects. Then the impregnation itself is carried out in several layers with a break for drying. It can be produced cold or hot.

Impregnation with oil-wax mixtures also has a number of limitations:

1. As a result of the treatment, the coefficient of friction between the surfaces of shoes and the floor is reduced, so it is easier to slip on such a board.
2. If subsequent impregnation with varnish is desired, the entire coating will have to be removed.
3. The method is not suitable if the premises are equipped with a “warm floor” system.

The choice of the optimal method for processing boards, including those made from oak, depends on the conditions of its use and the desired visual effect of the finished coating.

Good day, dear readers of this blog!

How to prepare wooden cutting board for use? How many people have asked this question?

My own experience and studying on the Internet very contradictory information on this issue prompted me to write this article.

Cutting boards are consumables. Their operating conditions are very harsh by definition. You can, of course, do nothing and immediately put the board to work. But it will not last long, 6-12 months. And some high-quality wooden boards are not cheap...

Many of you have heard and read that wooden dishes Before use, soak in vegetable oil. The most commonly recommended are sunflower, olive, flaxseed, palm, grape seeds, hemp, teak and the like.

I want to warn everyone who wants to use this method!

Impregnation of wood with vegetable oil is one of the the most ancient ways its processing. This has been done from time immemorial, but this method has two significant drawbacks for a modern metropolis resident.

The fact is that vegetable oils

They dry for quite a long time and remain fluid, “staining” other objects with which they come into contact;

The oil in the pores of the wood will go rancid, and the product will have a rich but unpleasant bouquet of odors that are almost impossible to get rid of.

So, to increase service life, increase the stability of the board, protect against bacteria and give a beautiful appearance, it is recommended to treat cutting boards mineral oil. Mineral oil is a product of petroleum refining and has neither taste nor smell.

You can buy mineral oil suitable for food purposes in stores that sell wooden cutting boards; I saw it at IKEA. But the most accessible mineral oil is sold in every pharmacy - this is Vaseline oil.

So let's get started! Wash the board and dry it. Run your hand over the board; if it seems rough, treat the board with fine sandpaper №№ 600, 400.

Mineral oil should simply be poured onto the surface of the cutting board and rubbed over the entire surface soft cloth or by hand. It is necessary to process all surfaces of the board, including the sides. Don’t be afraid to “overfill” the oil – the wood will absorb as much as it needs.

A new board must be treated several times (from two to five with a break of about 6 hours between treatments). Remove any oil that is not absorbed in the final layer with a paper towel.

Perhaps after the first layer of oil the wood fibers will rise. Go over them with fine sandpaper No. 600-400.

A more advanced and “long-lasting” method of treating boards is coating them with a mixture of petroleum jelly and beeswax. Prepare the mixture in a water bath: heat the Vaseline oil, put pieces of beeswax in it in the proportion of 1 part wax / 4 parts oil.
Cool the mixture and apply it to the board on all sides with a brush or cloth, polish with a dry, clean cloth.
You can buy natural wax from familiar beekeepers, in markets where they sell honey, in online stores that sell components for soap making and cosmetics.

Approximately 3 times a year, impregnation of the board with mineral oil must be repeated. Any wooden utensils can be processed in this way. Therefore, the oil you bought will not go to waste.

In conclusion, I would like to advise those who find the method I described difficult to use an innovation - simple flexible cutting boards made of silicone. They are light, non-slip, wash well, do not absorb odors, do not stain from the juice of fruits and vegetables, and do not dull knives. They are convenient to store - simply rolled into a tube. They are often called not boards, but cutting mats.

Silicone cutting mats are very convenient for preparing the most different dishes; Ideal for rolling out and cutting dough.

Wash them warm water with liquid detergent by hand with soft sponges; Do not use abrasive detergents. All silicone products can be washed in dishwasher. They can withstand temperatures from -40 to +230 degrees.

All photos from the article

Wood is one of the most common building materials, of which often suburban areas they make gazebos, fences, benches, verandas, etc. In order for all these products to last for many years, it is necessary to periodically process the wood protective compounds from all kinds of negative factors. In this article we will look in detail at how and with what to properly process wood with your own hands.

General information

The durability of wood products is negatively affected by a number of factors:

If you do not protect the tree from these negative factors, then the product will very quickly become unusable. Therefore, processing is a mandatory procedure, and the durability of the wooden structure directly depends on the quality of its implementation.

The photo shows an example of untreated rotten wood

This procedure is usually performed in two stages:

Below we will take a closer look at each of these stages.

Impregnation

Purpose

Deciding what to process wooden gazebo on the street, a bench or other structure, first of all you need to select an antiseptic impregnation.

Is it true, modern compositions, as a rule, have a complex effect, and are not only antiseptics, but also fire retardants that protect wood from fire. In addition, impregnations often contain oil or wax, which prevents moisture from penetrating into the wood structure. Some of them are decorative and can be used instead paint coating.

An alternative to impregnation is antiseptic primers. In essence, they have the same effect on wood as impregnations, but in addition they improve the adhesion of the paintwork to the wood.

When choosing a finish, the vast majority of craftsmen give preference to compositions made from natural ingredients, primarily oils. There are many options for what to soak new board, but practice shows that the most effective solution in this matter is the use of petroleum jelly, which is not difficult to find in a pharmacy.

An alternative to petroleum jelly can be vegetable analogues, in particular nut or linseed oil. But, despite the environmental friendliness and simplicity of such finishing, over time it can transmit to food that comes into contact with wooden board, unpleasant rancid odor. When covering the product with linseed, Vaseline or any other oil, you will have to periodically renew the impregnation, which will wear out as the board is used.

How to oil a cutting board?

Oil for impregnation is applied to a well-polished and dried surface. Having evenly distributed a generous amount of finishing composition using a brush or swab, it is allowed to absorb into the wood structure (15-20 minutes), after which the excess is wiped off by running the swab along the fibers.

A new wooden cutting board is treated with at least two or three layers. Each fresh layer of oil is applied after the previous one has completely dried. This is not very convenient because vegetable oils quite low. Drying the boards must be done in a well-ventilated area.

Are other finishing compounds hazardous to health?

This question still causes heated debate, despite the fact that clear and authoritative answers have long been given to it. For finishing wooden products in contact with food, you can use any finishing compounds, including oil-based, polyurethane and nitrocellulose varnishes, shellac coatings and linseed oil. These materials are completely harmless to health, but only after complete drying. This is a very important point!

Before you start using kitchen board, which you decide to paint with one of these compounds, you need to make sure that the coating has completely hardened. Remember that the presence of a surface film does not mean that the composition has completely dried inside the wood.

How to maintain the attractiveness of the finish?

By following these simple instructions, your cutting board will retain its visual appeal for many years.

1. After use, wash the product well with warm water, using minimal use if possible. detergents. Wipe off excess moisture without special zeal and do not allow the board to remain in water for a long time.
2. The finishing of the kitchen board needs periodic updating. Outer layer“refresh” as they wear out, usually once every 4-5 months, depending on the intensity of use of the product. By controlling the condition of the protective layer, you will protect the board from cracking, swelling, and mold formation, while maintaining its visual appeal.
3. When the working side of the board is severely damaged by knives, it is sanded and the finish is reapplied.

Turning a cutting board into an impressive decor

Inspired by the ideas in our gallery, you can create a product that is made from ordinary household utensils turn into original decor for your kitchen. Such an expressive and functional piece of furniture will be a spectacular gift that no housewife will remain indifferent to.