The best time for planting is spring, when all the forces of nature help the plant to develop root system and start growing. A best time To buy seedlings - autumn, when many varieties go on sale in excellent condition and at a reasonable price. But root formation does not occur at this time, only callus grows.

This discrepancy raises the question: “If a purchased plant does not take root in the fall (with the exception of currants), what to do with the cuttings and seedlings until spring?” There is a solution, this is digging up seedlings for the winter.

Let's wait until spring

Ordinary gardeners are in a hurry to immediately identify plants by permanent place, and agronomists consider autumn planting the worst type of digging and are in no hurry until spring. What is the opinion of the professionals?

The quality of purchased seedlings is not reliably known. By appearance it is difficult to determine whether the growth process has completed and how ready the plant is for winter.

It is necessary to dig in the seedlings so that they go through the entire cycle: from spring to late autumn. The seedling preserved in the dig will begin a new round of development in time and will survive the next winter well.

Determining the deadlines

If you don’t plant, what to do with new plants, when and how to bury the seedlings?

In early autumn, dig in, covering only the roots with soil. With the onset of cold weather, the stems are also covered, leaving 1/3 of the length outside.

Sometimes valuable varieties ordered from nurseries arrive in late autumn. They can also be saved until spring.

We accommodate latecomers

How to bury seedlings for the winter if the soil is frozen and covered with snow? You need to do two things in advance: prepare a bag of earth in a frost-free room and dig a hole in the garden. When the long-awaited package arrives, you need to shovel away the snow, put the plant in the groove, sprinkle it with the prepared soil and cover it with snow.

If the hole is not dug, the ground must be watered hot water, immerse the seedling in the resulting slurry, and throw a snowdrift on top. You can do it simpler: place the plant directly on the snow, cover it with it and wait for spring.

Preparing the place

For better wintering, choose a flat or elevated place where snow always lies in winter and does not accumulate melt water at the beginning of spring. The soil should be loose, free of weeds and without clods. If the area is damp, you can make a drainage ditch.

There should be no compost heaps or hay nearby: mice like to hibernate in these places.

The trench groove should be oriented in the east-west direction. The roots are laid to the north, the tops to the south.

Preparation of material

It is not enough to know how to bury seedlings for the winter. They still need to be properly prepared for hibernation:

• healthy, strong plants are purchased;
• all leaves and petioles are removed from the stem;
• damaged, rotten and dry roots are cut out;
• if there is a suspicion of disease, the seedlings are treated with copper sulfate;
• Crown pruning should be postponed until spring.

How to bury seedlings for the winter

In winter, seedlings have three enemies: damping off, freezing and mice. If everything is done correctly, they will survive the winter well and grow well in the spring.

You need to make a groove in the ground as deep as a shovel bayonet. One wall remains vertical, the other at an angle of 30 degrees. The seedlings are laid perpendicular to the groove, in rows (with roots to the vertical wall). In this case, ½ of the length of the stems should be 3-4 cm below the soil level.

Additionally, you can lay agrofibre under the upper half of the stems, this will protect them from damping off. To combat mice, you can cover the trench with spruce paws, then cover it with earth.

Then they need to be watered well and the roots and lower third of the stems carefully sprinkled with loose soil. The mound must be compacted and watered abundantly again. When the water is absorbed, sprinkle with soil.

As a result of digging, the roots are securely hidden under the roller from the ground. Thin layer soil (no more than 5 cm) covers half of the stems. ½ of the seedling's length remains emerging from the ground at an acute angle.

In spring, plants are planted as early as possible, as soon as it thaws. top layer land.

It is best to buy young seedlings in the fall - this is an indisputable fact. At this time of year there is more choice and the quality is noticeably better. But here’s the catch: not all young varieties will be able to survive the winter. cold winter and not die. And the weather and soil do not always allow young seedlings to be planted in the soil. So that your money does not end up being thrown away, and you do not worry or get upset, we will tell you how to properly bury seedlings for the winter.

What does it mean to “bury seedlings”?

Digging seedlings is an opportunity to protect them for long winter from unfavorable factors. To do this, the “youth” are buried in the ground in a special way, insulated and protected. Read all the details of this procedure below.

Digging seedlings for the winter

In the fall, in order to properly bury the seedlings, you need to follow a simple algorithm.

1. Remove all leaves from the purchased seedling. This is necessary in order to improve its frost resistance and also prevent the seedling from losing moisture.

2. Dig a ditch. There are small subtleties in this matter:

• the groove should be on a hill so that there is no stagnation of water;
• depth is about 40-70 cm, but no more;
• the groove must be positioned from east to west;
• make the southern slope with a slope of 45 degrees.

3. We place our seedlings. And here there are several important rules:

• The roots should face north and the tops should face south. By adhering to this, you will protect young shoots from sunburn and overheating on possible warm autumn days;
• The distances between plants should be about 10-25 cm; under no circumstances should they be placed in a crowd.

4. Now we proceed to the actual digging. Spread 5-10 cm of soil on the roots and water well. Try to keep the soil loose and shallow, otherwise careless actions and large pieces can damage the entire root system. Once the water has been absorbed, continue to sprinkle the roots and bottom part trunk with earth. The height should be 15-20 cm. When adding soil, do not forget to compact the soil, but not brazenly with your feet; just a few maneuvers with a shovel are enough. This way the soil will lie more densely on the roots, and they will definitely not freeze in winter.

5. A little trick, if you dig in more than one type of plant, or simply don’t rely on your memory, then don’t forget about the label, which should be made of plastic and buried along with the seedlings. The inscription is best done with a marker.

6. In order to save your “kids” from rodents, place branches of blackberries, rose hips, raspberries or other thorny plants on top. Some people think that you can put spruce branches or hay on top, but mice make quite cozy holes for themselves under such cover. Therefore, learn from the mistakes of others - spruce branches are not a very good defense.

7. Now let’s start insulating the buried seedlings for the winter. Have you noticed that the nights have become colder, and the soil is already frozen by 3 cm? It's time to warm up. Cover the seedlings completely, up to the very top branches, with loose soil. Well, again, now protecting yourself from hares, place thorny branches around.

How to preserve seedlings in winter?

In winter, you need to remove snow from your dig at a distance of 2-3 meters so that there is bare earth around. By these actions you will once again protect the plants from mice and other rodents that can dig tunnels under the snow. There is no need to touch the seedlings themselves; under the snowdrift they will be warm, as if under a blanket. That's all wisdom. There is no need to do any further actions in winter.

We told you the main subtleties of autumn digging of seedlings. Now let me give you some friendly advice. It is best to dig holes for future trees and shrubs in the fall, while the ground allows it. In the spring all this will be much more problematic.

The raspberry berry is a member of the rose family.

These delicious fruits have been known to every person since childhood for their taste.

When we had a cold, our mothers always gave us tea with raspberry jam. After all, raspberries contain a lot of vitamin C, which helps our body fight a cold or viral infection.

In addition to vitamin C, raspberry pulp contains large quantities of organic acids, glucose, fructose, as well as vitamins A and B. Therefore, this plant is very popular among gardeners. There are no difficulties in planting raspberry bushes.

The main thing is to carefully study the information and avoid making basic mistakes.

There are two known ways of planting raspberry bushes - in a hole and in a trench. The choice of method depends only on you, but planting raspberry bushes in a hole is a less labor-intensive process, but with the trench method, all the roots of the seedling will evenly receive nutrients, which will give an excellent start to the developing root system of the raspberry sprout.

In order to plant bushes in holes, you must first prepare a hole for each seedling 40x50 cm. There should be a distance of at least 1 m between adjacent holes, and the row spacing should be at least 2 m, otherwise the bushes will be too crowded.

With the trench planting method, the planting site should be prepared approximately 20-25 days in advance. The width of the trench should be at least 50-60 cm, and the depth - 40-45 cm.

The number of trenches depends on the number of seedlings you purchased. In this case, you need to dig in the bushes at a distance of 25–35 cm.

The place for raspberries should be chosen where the surface is flat or slightly inclined. It is better to choose a slope in the northern or northwestern part of the site.

You can plant raspberries from the young side, but you will need to constantly water the bushes.

If in winter there is little snow at the place where the raspberries are planted, then the bushes may lose large number fruit points. Therefore, in the place where you plan to plant raspberries, there should be no draft or strong wind that would blow snow away from the site.

In order not to worry about a trellis for bushes, you can plant raspberry seedlings near the side fence of the site.

Raspberry bushes should not be planted where the soil is swampy or damp, in hollows, or in places where too much moisture accumulates in the spring.

Raspberry bushes are unpretentious to the composition of the soil, but loamy leached chernozem soils, which contain a lot of humus and a sufficient amount of water, are best suited for these plants.

Water in the ground should rise no higher than a level of 1.5 m from the surface. If the groundwater does not lie so deep, the plantation may not bear fruit well, and the plants will die faster than usual.

The land for planting must be prepared. If you plan to plant raspberries in the spring, then the site needs to be prepared in the fall, and if you plan to plant seedlings in the fall, then the site needs to be prepared a month before planting.

Preparatory measures include deep tillage of the soil and application of fertilizers. You need to dig up the area to a depth of at least 30 cm, adding fertilizer before doing so.

For raspberries, the degree of soil fertility is very important. The bushes will grow and develop quickly in soils where there is a lot of humus. To do this, when plowing the site you need contribute or humus with a calculation of 8 - 10 kg per 1 sq. meter, or half-rotted manure in the amount of 10-15 kg per unit area.

You also need to enter various kinds composts, for example, peat manure or prefabricated composts. You also need to add mineral fertilizers of the phosphorus-potassium group to the soil.

Superphosphate should be added at 50 - 60 g per square meter. meter, and potassium salts - 30 - 40 g. It is imperative to remove all weeds from the soil, as they can cause damage to raspberry bushes. Wheatgrass is especially dangerous for these plants.

The time for planting raspberries depends on the climatic conditions of the region.

For example, Raspberry bushes should not be planted in middle lane in summer, as the plants will be too hot. It is better to bury them at the end of September - beginning of October or early spring when buds have not yet opened.

If you plant bushes in the fall in right time, then they will have time to take root before the onset of persistent frosts. Therefore, you should calculate the time and dig in the seedlings approximately 15–20 days before a stable low temperature is established.

It is better to plant raspberries in the fall, since during this period the air is more humid than usual, and its temperature is quite suitable for the development of raspberries.

If there is a drought in the fall, which is why the ground is dry, then it would be better to dig in the bushes in the spring. This planting option is required for those areas where natural precipitation is low in winter, as a result of which the roots may freeze, or the plant will die altogether.

It is extremely important to choose the right planting material.

It is advisable to use annual offspring as seedlings. The roots should be long (15 – 20 cm) and should form a thick lobe. The thickness of the ground shoot should be at least 8 - 10 mm. Before planting, those seedlings that you plan to bury need to be shortened to 30 cm in height.

If you do not have enough seedlings or you want to short terms propagate good variety raspberries, then you can use root cuttings.

To do this, you need to remove the remaining roots from the ground in the fall when digging up raspberry shoots. Those roots that reach 3–5 mm in thickness should be divided into cuttings 10–15 cm long.

Keep they are needed until spring in basement immersed in wet sand.

If you did not prepare the soil before planting, that is, did not apply fertilizer, then you need to carry a mixture of organic and mineral fertilizers with the calculation of 4 - 5 kg of humus, 30 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium salt.

The root collar should rise slightly above the soil surface. In a hole or trench, the roots need to be distributed evenly, compacted a little and covered with earth.

Autumn is a fertile period for purchasing seedlings of all kinds fruit trees: their huge assortment will delight even the most inveterate skeptics, and the quality of copies purchased in the fall will be much higher. But sometimes it happens that the seedlings were purchased quite late, and the hole for planting them turned out to be completely unprepared. In this case, it is recommended to postpone planting young trees until spring, burying the seedlings well for the winter.

In what cases are seedlings buried?

It is possible to dig in seedlings for the winter not only if they are purchased late - it is quite acceptable to do this manipulation with seedlings of varieties that are not resistant to frost. This can also be done when, when purchasing a new variety, there is no absolute certainty that the seedlings will be able to withstand late planting. As a rule, seedlings of apple, plum, cherry and pear trees are most often buried.

It is also important to know that in October it is not too late to prepare the planting holes (even if the seedlings will still be planted in the spring). As a rule, the ground does not yet have time to freeze thoroughly by this time. It can hardly be argued that allocating time for this part of the work in the spring will be extremely problematic, because there will be so much to do!

How to plant seedlings?

To bury the seedlings, the first thing you need to do is find the highest place on the site that is well protected from the wind - in no case should there be stagnation of water either in spring or autumn. And so that young seedlings are not damaged by enterprising mice, you should not dig them near straw heaps. Not the most best place there will also be areas located in close proximity to hay, compost heaps or thickets of grass - rodents without special effort they will get there too.

The groove for subsequent digging of seedlings must be prepared in advance. It must be dug strictly at an angle of forty-five degrees. The flat wall should be located on the south side, and the vertical wall on the north. As for the maximum depth of placement of seedlings, it should not exceed seventy centimeters.

Before you start planting seedlings, they should be thoroughly prepared. Firstly, in order to increase their winter hardiness, all leaves must be torn off from them (otherwise they will actively evaporate excess moisture). And then the future trees are immersed in water (entirely) so that both the wood and the bark are thoroughly saturated. As a rule, seedlings are kept in water from two to twelve hours.

Prepared seedlings are placed in a dug ditch with branches to the south (that is, to the flat wall), and with the root system to the north (to the vertical wall). And immediately after they find themselves in such a unique shelter, they are completely covered with sand or soil. Buried seedlings need to be watered thoroughly - this will not only help protect future trees from drying out, but also prevent the formation of air voids that can provoke extremely undesirable warming of the bark.

And as soon as the first frosts hit, the trunks and branches of the previously buried seedlings are promptly covered with earth. At the same time, an impressive earthen lump will form above the seedlings. As for the branches sticking out from one of its edges, it would not hurt to cover them with spruce branches - this is done to protect against rodents.

When the snow melts in the spring, the seedlings that have wintered under reliable shelter begin to slowly open up. You shouldn’t delay this - any delay is fraught with the risk of the young bark becoming overheated.

How do seedlings get freed from the ground?

In order not to damage the rather fragile seedlings, they are freed from the adhering soil, holding them with one hand by the trunk, and with the other by the trunk of the rootstock or by the root collar. It is strictly forbidden to swing the seedlings during this procedure! If you ignore this advice, the scion located at the grafting site can easily break off.

Majority fruit trees planted in October. But if a seedling is purchased and the weather has already turned bad, it is better to leave it until spring. To ensure that it is well preserved and ready for planting in the spring, the seedling is buried on the site.

How to bury seedlings for the winter

There is nothing complicated about digging, but certain rules exist. Not recommended in most areas autumn planting stone fruits (cherry, plum, apricot), as well as coniferous trees. It is better to plant an apple or pear tree right away, unless the deadlines are hopelessly missed.

What is a trench

Digging is a kind of facilitated planting: the seedling is buried in the ground at an angle of 45°, but not up to the root collar, but deep, without fertilizers, with protection from rodents and frost. The earth is not compacted very hard, since with the arrival of spring the tree will need to be dug up and planted according to all the rules. When digging, the seedling should not take root, so the procedure is performed closer to winter.

When digging, seedlings are placed underground to at least half their height.

Digging hole

Pit for winter storage seedlings require a depth of about 40 cm, with a sloping southern wall. They prepare it where there is no stagnation groundwater. If it is necessary to store several seedlings, instead of a hole, dig a trench of such length that there is at least 15–20 cm between the stems.

The removed soil is piled on the north side to make it easier to cover the roots. If the soil is clayey, you can add sand or peat to it before filling.

Seedling preparation

If the seedling has leaves, they must be carefully torn off. It is advisable to keep the roots in water for at least several hours, cutting off the damaged areas. If there are many side branches, they are tied with a rope for compactness. The prepared seedling is placed obliquely in the hole with the roots to the north, straightening them, and the top to the south.

During mass digging, seedlings must be signed

Backfilling the seedling

The hole is filled in 3 steps: first only the roots, after which the soil is lightly trampled and watered abundantly. Then, just before the onset of frost, they throw in a 2nd portion of soil with compaction and watering, then a 3rd. They take a lot of water so that the ground is as wet as possible. Make a mound so that the smallest possible part of the branches sticks out.

Shelter

In the first half of November, a buried seedling is covered with coniferous spruce branches or nonwoven materials, and after the snow appears, they throw it over the shelter. It’s a good idea to also place mouse poison under cover. In the spring, after the snow melts, the shelter is immediately removed.

For the winter, the mound with branches should be covered with spunbond, and snow should be thrown on it

Digging seedlings for the winter is a simple operation that allows you to save them for spring planting. It is necessary because it is easier to purchase high-quality seedlings in the fall, and it is better to plant some trees in the spring.