June 13, 2017
Specialization: philological education. Work experience as a builder - 20 years. Of these, for the last 15 years he led a team as a foreman. I know everything about construction - from design and zero cycle to interior design. Hobbies: Vocals, psychology, quail farming.

Greetings, my dear readers!

We all have to do minor repairs that require putty. It levels the base, makes it even and smooth, and clogs cracks and seams.

At minor repairs The putty consumption is small and there is no point in buying it in bags or buckets. You can make your own putty, which is what I do. Let me share this experience with you.

How to make putty for different surfaces

Putty for wooden surface must be strong and elastic. After all, wood is deformed by changes in temperature and humidity. The putty should move with it.

Three options for homemade wood putty

1. Chalk diluted with PVA glue. The mixture is brought to the consistency of sour cream. For large irregularities or cracks, you can add wood dust or small sawdust to this putty.

The disadvantage of such putty- it dries in about a day. It contains long-hardening PVA.

1. Chalk diluted with nitro varnish. Take the required amount of chalk and small sawdust and dilute the mixture with nitro varnish. This type of putty is optimal for repairs. wooden furniture and items made from chipboard.

• You can paint the putty to match the color of the furniture with construction pigment or gouache. Add a little solvent #647 to the dye and pour it into the putty. Then mix the composition.
• The advantage of putty on nitro varnish- it dries quickly. Flaw- It is slightly toxic and has a strong smell.

1. Chalk diluted with water-dispersion acrylic varnish. Take the required amount of chalk and cheap acrylic varnish. Mix them to form a liquid paste. If the putty is thick, it can be diluted with water. You can adjust the color of the mixture by adding a small amount of color for water-dispersion paints.

Acrylic varnish has good elasticity. Therefore, putty made from it will protect well wooden base from atmospheric influences.

• If the base is very uneven or has large gaps, add fine sawdust to the acrylic mixture. I recommend that you make the mixture in the evening and cover the container with it tightly. Overnight the sawdust will infuse and soften.
• Advantages of putty on acrylic varnish - quick drying(2–8 hours, depending on room temperature), increased elasticity and strength.

This type of putty can be used to process non-laminated chipboards without any problems. However, there is one caveat.

IN construction stores There are many water based acrylic primers sold. For example:

• Olimpic Acryl Grundierung;
• Ceresit-CT/17;
• Uzin-PE/260.

Except water composition, you can use the universal primer GF-021.

I recommend that you do all the types of putties I described in a small volume, sufficient for a work shift. The mixture will dry out if stored for a long time.

Apply the solution to the wood with a flexible rubber spatula. Sand with sandpaper on a block or a sander.

Four types of putty for painting, wallpaper for concrete and plaster

Concrete and plaster ceilings and walls are puttied with gypsum-based putty before painting or wallpapering. This is not entirely convenient - the plaster sets quickly. Therefore, it has to be kneaded in small portions.

I offer you several putty recipes that are much more convenient to work with.

1. Putty on wood glue. Its composition: 10 kg of chalk, 1 kg of 15 percent wood glue, 25 g of turpentine, 25 g laundry soap and 25 g of drying oil. The composition is mixed until a paste is formed.

1. Putty on acrylic primer. Its composition: 10 kg chalk, 10 l acrylic primer, 1.5 liters of 10 percent wood glue. All this is mixed to a paste-like state.

1. Casein paint solution. Its composition: 22 kg of chalk, 10 kg of casein paint, 6 liters of water and 300 g of drying oil. To prepare the mixture, dilute the paint with water and heat to +60˚.

After this, strain the solution through a sieve and pour drying oil into it. Lastly, add chalk to the composition. I recommend soaking it in water beforehand.

1. Casein glue mixture. Its composition: 22 kg of chalk, 10 liters of 10 percent casein glue and 30 g of drying oil. If you make the mixture using ready-made glue, you don’t have to heat it up. While mixing the composition, gradually add soaked chalk and drying oil to it.

Conclusion

By doing the putty yourself, you can save money and be confident in good quality material. Don’t be afraid to experiment, all the mixture recipes I’ve given are very simple and it’s impossible to make a mistake.

If you have any questions, ask them in the comments. So I say goodbye, and good luck to you in your endeavors!

Does your home have wood floors? In this case, you know firsthand that he needs constant care. However, even with the most careful use, wood tends to deform and crack. If you want to make your home more aesthetically pleasing, pay attention to flooring. But keep in mind that even with ideal installation of the coating, problems are possible. To avoid them, it is leveled before carrying out work. There are several ways to do this.

Leveling the floor with plywood

This technology is ideal for. You will need a sheet of plywood grade 4/4 or higher. The sheet thickness can be 12 mm and above.

Let's take a closer look at the algorithm:

• We dismantle the old covering;
• We install beacons. Self-tapping screws are screwed in at the required level over the entire surface. The work is done using a screwdriver. Beacons should be installed in corners. Thus, a square is obtained, the sides of which are 20-30 cm;
• Lighthouses are leveled horizontally using a level;
• Let's start laying the joists. They are made from plywood planks. The step between them should be approximately 30-35 cm;
• The logs are mounted using glue or self-tapping screws. If they sag, you can place plywood or blocks under the joists;
• along the horizon. Ultimately, we have a grid of logs, the sides of which are 30-35 cm;
• We lay out the plywood so that its joints are on the joists. To make the work easier, you can first lay sheets of plywood on the floor without joists and make appropriate marks so that the joints of the sheet correspond to the joists;
• Sheets of plywood are installed on the joists using self-tapping screws equipped with countersunk heads. On plywood, for self-tapping screws, a countersunk hole is made;
• The installed plywood sheets are carefully sanded.

If you plan to install flooring, on plywood it is recommended apply a coat of varnish. If the covering is chosen, foamed polyethylene or cork is used as a backing. Keep in mind that after leveling the floor height will be several cm higher, so it makes sense to think in advance about trimming the lower area of ​​the doorway.

Leveling the floor with PVA putty

Relatively original way. In terms of its consumer qualities, putty is almost similar to chipboard. It is a composition of PVA glue and wood sawdust. When hardened, the putty forms a strong and reliable layer that is difficult to process. With its help you can fill in all the existing unevenness. The cost of the composition is very affordable, which makes this technology accessible to every person (). Putty is best used under linoleum or laminate.

Using PVA putty

Let's consider the correct algorithm:

• We dismantle the old covering. The floor is carefully sanded;
• Deformed boards are attached to the joists using self-tapping screws;
• Beacons are attached to the floor in increments of 35-50 cm. Wooden slats are used as beacons. Make sure that the beacons are located on the same plane. To work, you will definitely need a level;
• The putty is mixed. It contains PVA glue and wood sawdust. The consistency is similar to that of liquid sour cream. Before preparing the putty, it is recommended to wet the sawdust a little and dry it. This measure prevents the appearance of cracking of the putty;
• The gaps between the slats are filled with putty using a spatula in several layers. Some time must pass before applying the next layer;
• Before the final layer, the floor is leveled using a rule;
• PVA putty dries in approximately 2 days, then the floor covering is installed.

As already mentioned, their PVA putty is well suited for linoleum and laminate. For other types of floor coverings it is less suitable, since it differs less strength. can also be used for leveling.

Floor sanding

To perform grinding, sanding units will be required. Their cost is quite high, and therefore it makes sense to look for this equipment for rent. The work of leveling the floor with scraping units will take no more than a day. You can purchase a tape grinding machine. However, working with it is more labor-intensive. If the sandpaper on the unit is coarse, you need to carefully monitor the level, otherwise you may damage the floor.

Grinding is already a little outdated. U this method There are many disadvantages: labor costs, waste of time, money and materials. It is easier to pay attention to other methods of preparing the floor for installation of the coating. However, it all depends on the characteristics of the house and the conditions of the event. repair work. Sanding is optimal if paint and varnish materials are chosen as the floor covering.

As already mentioned, the work is carried out using a special scraping unit. However, the surface can also be cycled manually. This will require a hand scraper. With its help, the floor is polished, all roughness is eliminated. Be prepared for the work to take a lot of time and effort. Another disadvantage is that sanding creates a lot of dust. You can make scraping easier by working with special machines.

Sanding a wooden floor

Grinding is performed as follows:

• As already mentioned, a considerable amount of dust is generated during operation. For this reason, it is important to protect interior items, furniture, and respiratory tracts from the smallest particles of debris in advance;
• Everything is removed from the floor surface metal elements. The nail heads are driven into the floor using a hammer and a hammer. This is necessary so that the knives of the scraping unit do not become deformed during operation;
• Sanding is done starting from any angle. The unit is moved along the snake line;
• After removing the first layer, any debris that has arisen is removed and cleaning is performed. Then all the cracks are filled with putty;
• After the putty has dried, additional sanding of the floor is performed. If you are leveling the surface for paint and varnish materials,
• The entire room must be thoroughly vacuumed until the resulting dust is completely eliminated.

After the floor has been sanded and you are planning to start applying varnish or varnish, the surface needs to be treated with white spirit. The floor is wiped with a lint-free cloth. Only then are paints and varnishes applied to the surface.

Despite the emergence of various modern materials, sawdust insulation has not lost its relevance, because it not only costs much less, but is also more effective in many conditions. Next we will talk about:

• various methods of insulation with sawdust;
• choosing the optimal astringent;
• features of the use of lime;
• choosing the most effective ways for insulation of floors, walls and ceilings;
• comparison of insulation using sawdust and other materials.

Methods of insulation with sawdust

Waste from sawing wood, which is sawdust, can be used for insulation in three main ways:

• backfill with compaction;
• production and installation of insulating boards;
• plastering.

Backfilling is the simplest method, the only advantage of which is low labor costs. Its main disadvantage is the subsidence of the sealing material due to caking and the appearance of voids. The voids themselves are not dangerous, because air is an excellent heat insulator, but any damage to the outer or internal lining will lead to air circulation and a sharp drop in thermal insulation properties. Therefore, this method is used only to reduce heat loss in utility rooms, where the appearance of cold bridges will not lead to serious problems and where, after a year, you can open the outer skin and add sawdust.

Insulating boards do not require annual refilling, but working with them is much more difficult. After all, you first need to make molds (matrices) for pouring the slabs, then select the optimal composition of the solution and fill the slabs in the matrices. After complete hardening, the slabs are attached to the walls, ceiling or floor lining. in various ways, and the gaps between them are sealed with fresh solution. The main advantage of the method is that the slabs can be cooked all year round if there is suitable space. Main disadvantage in low mechanical strength and large mass, which makes them quite difficult to work with.

Plastering with various sawdust-based solutions is another popular insulation method. It can also include pouring the finished solution into the voids between the outer and internal walls Houses. The main advantage of these methods is the ability to insulate surfaces of any shape. The first disadvantage is that after applying the solution, the insulated surface is filled with water, and the second is that it is difficult to insulate ceilings using this method, because due to the insufficient ratio of plasticity and specific gravity, the solution breaks off and falls every now and then.

Selecting the optimal binder

Insulation with sawdust alone is ineffective, so they are mixed with substances that turn sawdust into a solid and immobile mass. The most popular binders are:

• cement;
• gypsum;
• clay;

Cement provides maximum strength to the hardened insulation; in addition, it withstands the effects of water more easily than gypsum or clay. The optimal ratio of sawdust and binder is 5:1; this composition ensures high strength of the hardened material and good thermal insulation properties. The lifetime of the solution is 2 hours, after which the reaction of cement with water begins and mixing of the solution leads to a loss of strength after hardening. An increase in the proportion of binder slightly increases strength, but an increase in the proportion of sawdust proportionally increases the thermal insulation qualities. Nevertheless, cement-sawdust insulation must be protected from precipitation using siding or any other method.

Gypsum provides less strength than cement for hardened insulation and is much less resistant to moisture. Specific gravity gypsum sawdust mass is slightly higher than the same composition based on cement due to the lower optimal ratio of insulating and binder materials at 4:1. The solution's lifetime is 10 minutes, after which the gypsum begins to react with water and stirring leads to a loss of strength after hardening. Special additives ( citric acid, casein glue or slaked lime) allow you to increase the pot life up to 30 minutes without seriously reducing the strength of the hardened composition.

The main advantage of clay is its accessibility, because it is enough to remove a meter fertile soil and in front of you is ready-to-use clay. After drying, the mixture of clay and sawdust turns out to be noticeably less durable than previous compositions, so insulation boards are not made from it. When insulated by other methods, it provides the same result as cement or gypsum. Obvious advantage This binder is that after moisture enters, the clay first softens, and then dries out again and regains its previous strength. In addition, clay provides maximum vapor transfer coefficient, so buildings insulated with it can easily discharge excess moisture into the atmosphere, thus regulating indoor humidity.

A mixture of sawdust and PVA, after hardening, is not inferior in strength to a cement-sawdust composition of the same proportions, and is also not afraid of water. So if it doesn't bother you appearance insulation, then you can do without exterior finishing. This approach is appropriate for chicken coops and other utility rooms, for which appearance is much less important than functionality. Life time ready mixture 3 hours, after which stirring slightly reduces strength. This mixture has a minimal level of vapor permeability, so it should not be used for insulation. wooden houses, because it will deprive them of their main advantage - a comfortable microclimate in the rooms.

Features of using lime

Regardless of the choice of binder, as well as in the case of insulation with sawdust alone, it is necessary to mix them with lime. This will not only protect the wood from rot and disease, but will also prevent the appearance of beetles and rodents. But rodents are the main problem modern insulation, they happily make holes in polystyrene foam, mineral wool and other materials. Thanks to lime, which is a strong alkali and burns animals, rodents avoid settling in the insulating layer of sawdust. The average percentage of sawdust and lime is 10:1, but it can vary up or down depending on a variety of conditions.

How to choose the optimal insulation method

When choosing a method of insulation, it is necessary to proceed from the convenience of its implementation, because in terms of thermal efficiency they are all approximately the same. If it is necessary to insulate the ceiling, then first of all you need to find out whether all the work can be carried out from the top floor by dismantling the floor, or whether everything will have to be done from below. If you can work from the floor of the upper floor, then any method will do, including insulation with sawdust alone, and the problem of shrinkage can be solved by more thoroughly compacting the material. You can also add a small amount of binder (in a ratio of 15:1 or 20:1), this will not create a strong insulating layer, but will prevent shrinkage. If it is impossible to work from above, then you will have to make slabs and attach them to the ceiling, because it is impossible to apply such a layer of insulating plaster.

When insulating walls, you also have to decide which method is easier to implement and also better suits specific conditions. If you have a lot of free time in the winter and have a heated garage or shed, you can prepare insulating boards, so that in the spring or summer their installation will take much less time than plastering or pouring. If the wall has voids, then it is necessary to determine how to get to them with minimal damage to the walls and which method is more effective in such conditions. In addition, when plastering or external pouring, it is necessary to sheathe the surface of the wall with a chain-link mesh, which will ensure maximum adhesion to the insulating solution.

Comparison of insulation with sawdust and other materials

We have already talked about the two main advantages of sawdust insulation - such work is inexpensive and mice do not grow in this material. However, they also have other advantages - they allow water vapor to pass through better than any insulation, so their impact on the microclimate of breathable houses is minimal. In addition, even a mixture of sawdust and gypsum is less sensitive to high humidity and falling dew than mineral wool. A mixture with PVA is many times more sensitive to high humidity and dew than mineral wool and is comparable to polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam.

Sawdust has another significant advantage, which manifests itself only in Russia, where the building materials market is filled with fakes and counterfeits. By taking free or buying waste from sawing wood at a woodworking plant or sawmill, you can be sure that they will not sell you a fake or counterfeit product, and that the material will not be toxic or poisonous. But this is especially important for bedrooms and children's rooms, so you can put up with the not so many shortcomings of this material.

In all other respects, wood sawing waste is slightly inferior to modern materials. Such insulation requires, albeit not much, but still more effort, because modern materials are supplied in the form of ready-to-use products, but the insulating solution or mixture still needs to be prepared. In addition, in terms of thermal efficiency, a sawdust insulation layer 10 cm thick corresponds to a layer of mineral wool 8 cm thick or a layer of polystyrene foam 6–7 cm thick. In cases where sawdust cannot provide the specified efficiency at a certain layer thickness and it is impossible to make the layer thicker, others are preferable materials. If you can increase the layer, then they are in no way inferior to any other material.

In terms of sensitivity to fire and danger during a fire, sawdust with a binder (with the exception of PVA) is comparable to mineral wool and many times superior to polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or polyurethane. After all, it is very difficult to set them on fire, but if the house caught fire so much that the heat ignited the insulation, then such a fire will destroy the house with any insulation. But during a strong fire, sawdust does not emit toxic substances, which cannot be said about any other insulation materials except mineral wool.

Another important parameter, which depends on the correct choice of binder and adherence to technology, is the service life of such insulation. Foam insulation has to be replaced after a maximum of 50 years, mineral wool 100 years later, but in Russia and other countries there are still houses insulated with sawdust, the age of which has exceeded 150 years. And the insulating layer does not require replacement, because it is in excellent condition. In this parameter, insulation based on sawdust leaves far behind all competitors. Therefore, it is impossible to say unambiguously whether sawdust is worse or better than modern insulation; they are intended for certain conditions and are significantly superior to any analogues.

In most cases, apartments have relatively flat floors and concrete surfaces that require only “cosmetic” adjustments. It is done to slightly correct the height, eliminate holes and cavities formed during renovation work in the room. If there are cracks, chips and other problems in the concrete, they can also be eliminated using a liquid floor. This is what we will now install in step-by-step instructions.

Step 1 Surface preparation.

First you need to remove all dirt from the floor. To do this, you can use a metal scraper (for paint and varnish products and other materials), a broom and a vacuum cleaner at the final stage. Can be used washing vacuum cleaner– the effect will be much better.

Step 2 Setting the level.

There are many ways to do this, but we will use a metal profile as a level. Its width should be about 4 centimeters- that will be enough. We select the highest place on the concrete, fix one side of the profile there, then raise it level to an angle of 0 degrees and fix it to opposite side rooms. We do exactly this with all profiles.

Step 3 Pouring liquid floor.

Now that the profiles are level, you can pour the liquid floor. There is nothing complicated here. Prepare the mixture according to the instructions on the back of the bag and pour the solution, leveling it along the top of the profile so that it covers it.

Allow the mixture to harden. It dries from 5 to 25 days, depending on the thickness of the screed you make. After hardening, you can spread 2-3 mm glue on top and attach the parquet directly to it (you can make a backing, but this is optional).

How to level a floor using a PVA mixture

One of best methods To eliminate defects on the surface, use a mixture of sawdust and PVA. This is not insulation, but a durable base that has a low thermal conductivity coefficient and can compete with cork insulation. One of the advantages this method is the installation speed building material, good sound insulation and low cost. This allows you to lay floors not only in a small apartment, but also in large areas. Let's take a closer look at the installation instructions.

Step 1 Clean the surface well.

Dirt and dust must not be allowed to enter, as the adhesion of the materials will be very weak. You can use a vacuum cleaner, a wet cloth, etc.

Step 2 Display of beacons.

Reiki are suitable for solving this problem suitable in the best possible way. The thickness of the material may vary, but it is recommended to do at least 6 centimeters to achieve good thermal efficiency and sound insulation.

Step 3 We are preparing an explosive mixture.

We moisten the sawdust, then squeeze it out. There should be a minimum amount of water, while the humidity should remain quite high so that there is no overuse of expensive glue. Mix glue with sawdust to the consistency of thick sour cream.

Step 4 Application to floors.

If the differences are small, then one layer will be enough. If there are dips or steps, then in places where there will be a lot of sawdust, They need to be applied 2-3 times, with each layer drying for about 3 days. Keep in mind: sawdust shrinks slightly when drying!

When leveling a surface with large differences, you will have to seal the floors for a long time, so it is better to first prepare a small amount of the mixture and apply it to all the depressions. In a few days you will be able to begin full-time work.

Expert advice: level the floors sawdust PVA based is very difficult. If you can't achieve desired result using a level or level, you can take OSB sheet and just lay it on top of the sawdust. The strength of such a coating will be colossal, and leveling the sheet will not be difficult.

How to level a floor with large differences

Do you want to install expensive laminate or parquet in a room where the level differences reach 5 centimeters or more? This is quite possible, you just need to approach the issue creatively. We will level the floor with plywood. Let's take a closer look at how to level the surface in this way.

Step 1 Level the floor.

First you need to set up beacons. Their role will be played by self-tapping screws, which are screwed in to a certain height along the entire perimeter. We take a long level and go to set them up.

Step 2 We install logs.

For a room 5x5 meters wide you need wooden beam dimensions 80x90 mm. You cannot take less, since the hardness of the floor should be maximum. The width between the joists is no more than 60 centimeters.

Step 3 We fasten the plywood.

Here you will need to spend a little money. We buy FC plywood, 12-14 millimeters, material class - 44. Such a surface will withstand not only several people, but also significant short-term loads on the surface (falls of a person, a TV, a hammer blow, etc.). We screw the sheets (screws 6-7 cm long).

Step 4 We lay parquet.

Now all that remains is to lay the parquet on the plywood. To do this, simply lubricate the floor surface with construction adhesive and level it evenly over the entire area. The layer thickness should be about 4 millimeters, no more - this will be an overconsumption of expensive material. After installing the parquet, you must let the glue dry for at least 15 hours, only then you can test it.

All photos from the article

During operation wooden floors the boards begin to dry out and deform, which leads to the appearance of gaps between them. In most cases, such a defect is not a reason to replace the floors, since it is easy to eliminate. In this article we will look in detail at how to seal cracks in a wooden floor with different compounds.

Sealing cracks

There are quite a few options for how to seal cracks in a wooden floor.

The most common are the following:

• Glue with sawdust;
• Cement composition;
• Putty;
• Paste with paper;
• Cord;
• Silicone sealant.

Below we will take a closer look at all these options.

Glue with sawdust

This method is quite universal, as it can be used on different areas of the wooden floor.

In this case, work is carried out in the following way:

• First you need to prepare the sawdust - pour it into a suitable container and pour boiling water over it. The resulting mass must be mixed until a homogeneous composition is formed. After this, the sawdust must be left for several hours to swell.
• Next, add PVA glue to the sawdust and mix until a viscous consistency is formed.
• Then, before covering the cracks in the wooden floor, you need to carefully prepare them - clean them of dust and dirty deposits. If necessary, the space between the boards needs to be expanded slightly so that it can be completely filled with the prepared composition.
• Next, using a small spatula, you need to apply the adhesive to the crack and tamp it inside.

• The mixture needs to be leveled on top and any excess removed.
• After a few days, when the composition has completely hardened, the treated areas need to be sanded with sandpaper.

Pay attention!
Before sealing cracks in a wooden floor, you need to make sure that all the boards are securely fixed.
Otherwise, they must be additionally attached to the joists with nails or self-tapping screws.

Cement mixture

For cooking cement composition You need to prepare the following ingredients:

Instructions for preparing the putty look like this:

• The glue must be mixed with warm water and stir thoroughly.
• Then cement and sawdust are added to the resulting solution, which are mixed until a homogeneous mixture is formed.
• The resulting composition should be left for 10 minutes.
• Before filling the cracks in the wooden floor, the mixture must be slightly warmed up.

The sealing process itself does not differ from the method described above, the only thing is that the composition dries for about two weeks. After that you need to process it abrasive material to obtain a smooth surface.

Advice!
To give the mixture the color of wood, you can add a little coloring pigment or even oil paint to it.

putty

If you don’t want to bother with making putty yourself, you can use ready-made wood putty. True, it should be noted that this option is the simplest, however, not always reliable. The fact is that many types of putty crack and crumble quite quickly.

Therefore, when choosing how to fill cracks in a wooden floor, it is better to give preference to an acrylic or latex composition. They dry quickly, have no odor and do not crack over time.

If wood putty is chosen as the material, the cracks in the floor are sealed according to the same principle as described above for other mixtures. It can be applied with either a rubber or metal narrow spatula.

Paste and paper

To create this tool you will need:

• Paste;
• Paper;
• A small amount of copper sulfate will protect floors from insects.

This putty is quite durable, and its price is minimal.

It is performed as follows:

• The paper must be cut into small pieces and filled with water.

• Then you should prepare a paste from flour or starch. To do this, bring the water to a boil, then gradually add one of the selected ingredients into it. In this case, the mixture must be thoroughly mixed so that there are no lumps in it.
• Next, add to the finished and cooled paste copper sulfate in a ratio of 1:10.
• After this, you need to shred the paper with your hands and add it to the paste. The result should be a homogeneous and fairly thick putty consistency.

As in all previous cases, in order to achieve a high-quality result, before sealing cracks in a wooden floor, they must be well prepared, cleaned of any dirt and flaking surfaces. After this, you need to fill the space between the boards with the mixture and compact it as best as possible.

Cord termination

This option is good because it allows you not only to eliminate the space between the boards, but also to get rid of their unpleasant creaking.

To perform repairs using this method, you will need the following materials:

• Twine, cord or rope of suitable diameter;
• Sawdust;
• Wood glue;
• Wood putty.

The work is performed in this order:

• The cord must be soaked in adhesive composition so that it is lubricated on all sides.
• Then you need to make a mixture of putty, glue and sawdust.
• Next, the rope must be laid in the space between the boards to a depth of several millimeters.
• Then you need to apply the prepared mixture over the cord. Moreover, the putty should rise slightly above the floor, since it will certainly shrink during the drying process.

If the floors “play” and it is not possible to fix them firmly, in this case it is best to use silicone sealant for sealing cracks in wooden floors.

The process of applying it is extremely simple:

• The composition is drawn into a syringe.
• Then the tip of the syringe is lowered into the prepared slot and the sealant is squeezed out.

Due to the fact that silicone remains elastic even after drying, this seal can last quite a long time.

Seal the space between the wall and the floor

Separately, it should be said about how to remove cracks in a wooden floor that appear between the boards and walls. It should be said right away that if the gap is 1-2 cm, it does not need to be sealed, since it...

If the distance reaches 5 cm or more, then this space can be sealed in two ways:

• Using foam plastic;
• Filling the space polyurethane foam.

Pay attention!
Before using polyurethane foam, the surfaces on which it will be applied must be moistened with water from a spray bottle.

These are, perhaps, all the most common ways to get rid of cracks in a wooden floor.

Conclusion

As we found out, ways to seal cracks in wooden floors There are a lot, and all the options discussed above are quite effective. Therefore, you should choose based on the condition of the floor and the presence of certain ingredients.

You can get some additional information on this topic from the video in this article.