The very name of the element gives a clear explanation of its purpose. This profile is the final one and gives the siding a finished look. The finishing strip for siding is one of the elements without which the completion of the siding will not be complete. But she is not alone among the auxiliary parts of the siding covering. Let's look at all the final elements and their purpose.

Beautiful house siding makes you appreciate the whole picture without drawing attention to individual siding profiles

Those who first encountered siding have a one-sided idea of ​​this material. Many are sure that it is limited to wall facade panels, which are attached to each other using special devices. Indeed, this is the main element of the cladding, and it is what we see first when we look at a house with siding. You can completely ignore the auxiliary or additional elements, considering them part of the whole.

It is this statement that explains the function of the parts that are attached at the very end of the installation of a particular section of the house: they are needed to give the entire cladding a finished look. Edges, trims, hems, fasteners seem to be missing. They are not at the corners of the building, nor above, nor below. The entire siding facade looks like a neat multifaceted box thanks to these details.

Today, a whole range of finishing strips are known, which are intended for different areas of work on finishing the facade with siding. There are specific products, and there are those that are used in almost every installation. These are J profile, H profile, starting profile, window strip, external and internal corners and, of course, finishing strip. In the figure, each of these elements is indicated by a caption.

Siding elements completing the installation of sheathing

Useful recommendations for installing additional siding elements

To avoid confusion in the meaning and application of the final elements of siding, we will talk about each of them separately.

Starting bar

The final products include the starting profile, since it is located along the edge of a particular section of the facade. This is where the installation of the entire cladding begins. It is a plank with a certain bend in the upper part, into which the first panel is inserted with the lower edge and snaps into place, and its upper edge is attached with self-tapping screws to the wall or sheathing.

The importance of the starting profile in its installation. It is attached using a level with strict adherence to the horizontal. If a minimal distortion occurs when attaching this part, then after just a few rows it will become clearly visible on the entire wall cladding. Standard length the starting bar is 3660 mm, although metal siding may have different dimensions.

Starting bar and its dimensions

J - profile

Almost all additional elements have names in accordance with the letters English alphabet. It's all about their shape and the fact that siding was born in America, where such names were invented. The G-bar looks like a bent sheet in the shape of English letter J. Most often, we are dealing with the usual form of this element, which is shown in the figure. But there are two more varieties: the arched J-profile, which is used to decorate the arched structures of the facade, and the wide one, whose height reaches 91 mm.

The main area of ​​application is covering the edges of panels as a finishing profile, as well as designing corners, window and door openings.

Important! Never attach a J-bar to a starter piece - it is not designed for that. Strong winds can tear off the casing.

J-profile dimensions

Here is an example of using this part to complete the sheathing under the roof of a house. The chamfer is a wider J-element.

Attaching a chamfer as a finishing strip

N - profile

This element is designed for joining siding panels if they are not long enough. It is mounted under the panels along the sheathing frame. For its operation, another profile is attached to the horizontal rail of the frame with a pitch of 400 mm. This product is also used to separate one color of siding from another. The shades of the H-bar can be the same color as the main finish, or any color of your choice.

Type and dimensions of the H-profile

Corner elements

The name of the parts explains their purpose. Corner elements are designed to decorate corners on a building.

External corner and its dimensions

The peculiarity of these products is that they must be attached freely, with a backlash of 1.5-5 mm. It is this distance between the part and the wall, as well as between the adjacent plinth panels, that is optimal. In case of temperature changes, as well as daily expansion of the material, it will not allow the facade to deform. Corners, regardless of their purpose, are always attached strictly vertically. The top edge of the strip should not touch the cornice by 6 mm. The lower end of the corner, on the contrary, must be lowered 6 mm below the starting bar. Corner parts can be decorative, but in any case, their cost is always higher than other finishing products.

Internal corner and its dimensions

Window strip

This version of the finishing element is used to complete doors and window openings. It is attached only where there are slopes, otherwise the window is framed with platbands. Platbands are also finishing decorative elements, but they are only used on European standard windows. Installation of this product occurs in any order, but with thermal play.

Window strip and its dimensions

Finish bar

The difference between this accessory and the others is that it is always attached to the final panel. If the previous parts ended up external finishing of one or another section, then the finishing strip should be attached one step forward. The fact is that it is designed to mask the last edge of the panel. Typically, the finishing strip is installed at the very top of the wall close to the cornice. The last panel in the casing is cut to fit it and inserted under the bend, snapping inside the finishing profile. The profile itself is attached to the wall freely, without pressure. When temperature changes occur, the part should move freely without creating tension in the finish. Otherwise, the last panel may burst.

Finish strip dimensions

The same part forms the cladding of the protruding parts of the wall together with the J-profile. It can serve as their decorative design.

The cost of the item varies among different sellers, but is not much higher than regular siding parts. You can choose the finishing profile according to color and texture complete with wall panels.

Installation of the finishing strip is done before attaching the last panel

Interchangeability of finishing profiles

Without auxiliary parts of the siding covering, it is impossible to produce high-quality facade cladding, and any specialist will advise calculating and purchasing all the finishing elements in advance along with the wall cladding. But it happens that, due to forgetfulness, the profile was not purchased, and a second trip to the store did not bring results - there are no additional products for this type of siding anymore, it takes a long time to order new ones. And it happens that the calculation of the size and cost of products upsets the homeowner. In both cases, there is a search for alternatives for each of the finishing products. Almost every profile can be replaced. For example, the versatility of J-plank allows experienced finishers to avoid purchasing many expensive trim items. The photo shows how you can form an angle with its help.

Interchangeability of finishing profiles for forming internal corners

Window structures can also be successfully replaced with conventional panels, cut to size, and finishing or J-strap. When forming a pediment, they can also be used corner parts and J-bar.

You cannot replace the starting profile as one of the main installation parts, but it is not that expensive.

Video: common mistakes when installing siding elements

In this video you can learn how to properly install the final siding strips. What mistakes should not be made, and how this can threaten your façade.

The finishing strip and the rest of the siding covering profiles that complete the finishing help to make the facade complete and protect the walls from numerous harmful effects environment. Don’t forget about the installation tips, and the facade will delight you for many years.

Are you planning to renovate or build? new home and are you thinking about what kind of exterior finishing to do? Pay attention to vinyl siding - a very interesting and popular option for facade design. The material is well suited for both expensive country cottage, and for simple country house. However, siding panels alone are not enough for finishing - you will also need other parts, which are called additional elements. And today we will consider one of these elements - the finishing strip for siding.

First, let's get acquainted with the appearance and functions performed by the finishing strip and other additional siding elements.

Table. Finishing strip and other additional finishing elements with vinyl siding.

Item name	Why is this element needed?
	Installed at the bottom of the trim and serves as fastener for the first siding panel. The starting strip itself is fixed to the sheathing using self-tapping screws (it is also acceptable to use nails if the frame is made of timber). When connected to the first siding panels, this additional element is usually closed - it will not be visible from the outside.
	Sometimes the length of the walls is longer than the length of the siding panels. In this case, it becomes necessary to increase their length by installing sections of certain sizes. An H-shaped strip is used to seal them tightly with the main siding panels. It is attached to the sheathing on the left and right using self-tapping screws. External side The H-shaped strip remains visible after joining with the siding panels, so you should approach the choice of its color responsibly.
	Plank for joining siding panels on both sides external corner. Conventionally, the product can be divided into visible and invisible parts. The first covers the ends of the vinyl siding panels, the second is used to fasten the plank to the wall. It is desirable that the color of the product be the same as that of all other additional elements.
	In its design and function, this additional element is similar to the previous one, but is used not for external, but for internal corners of the house.
	This additional element is intended for edging and giving a finished look to window and doorways in the house. Also, J-strap is used in some cases for gable edging.
	In some cases, the windows in the house are “recessed” into the opening. To finish them in such situations, a window strip is used, which plays the role of a slope.
	It is used when finishing a house using siding to hermetically fasten panels in a horizontal position. The finishing strip is installed under the roof eaves. Also sometimes used to secure window trims when working with openings.
	Installed above the walls of the house, it allows rainwater to drain to the ground without moisture getting on the siding panels.
	This additional element is fixed at the bottom of the finish if the house has a protruding base. The hinged bar closes it and protects it from moisture.
	Used for closing inside cornice. As a rule, some of the soffit strips are perforated for the purpose of ventilation and to prevent the formation of condensation and dampness.

Important! Corner external siding strips can be used not only at the corners of the house, but also at the junction of wall trim and window openings.

Basic rules for transporting and storing finishing strips and other additional elements

Durable and attractive appearance siding finishing directly depends on the quality and condition of the panels and additional elements. Before installation, you will be able to preserve them in the same form in which they arrived from production if you follow the rules of transportation and storage. So let's get to know them. First, let's look at the basic provisions that must be observed when transporting siding panels, finishing strips and all additional elements.

Similar requirements apply to the storage location of the finishing strip and other parts of the siding trim.

Important! Separately, it is worth saying that when carrying and working with finishing panels in conditions low temperatures you need to be careful - vinyl becomes more fragile and brittle, so the risk of damaging finishing elements increases significantly.

Tools needed to work with finishing siding strip

Before you begin installing siding and finishing strips, you need to prepare not only the materials, but also the tools to work with them. All of them are shown in the table below.

Table. Tools needed to work with siding panels and trim strips.

Tool name	Why is it needed?
	To control the vertical evenness of walls. Without these tools, make high-quality sheathing for siding and finishing bar impossible.
	To control the position of certain elements of sheathing and finishing horizontally and vertically.
	To measure length and distance
	For cutting metal sheathing profiles for siding
	For cutting vinyl siding and its additional elements, including trim strips
	For punching holes in siding panels for their installation and fixation with the finishing strip.
	For driving dowels and adjusting some parts
	For drilling holes in the wall for dowels that hold the sheathing in place
	For tightening screws when installing finishing strips and other finishing elements
	For additional tightening or, conversely, unscrewing screws when installing the finishing strip

Important! Carrying out construction work, don't forget about the funds personal protection- glasses and gloves. Be sure to use them when cutting metal and drilling walls when installing siding.

Video - Installation of finishing siding strip

One of the most popular facade finishing options today is siding. The quality and durability of such finishing is ensured not only by the use good stuff, but also by the presence of a strong and reliable frame. Do you want to receive basic knowledge about how to make lathing for siding with your own hands? Then study.

Installing the finishing strip for siding under the eaves - step-by-step instructions

We will describe the process of installing the finishing strip for siding in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Step 1. Prepare the walls of the house for the installation of sheathing and siding - get rid of old paint and plaster, remove all protruding elements.

Step 2. Form a smooth and strong sheathing on the surface of the walls from wooden beam or metal profile.

Step 3. Insulate the walls of your home mineral wool. Place it between the sheathing elements and secure it with disc-shaped dowels. Stretch a steam and windproof film over the insulation on top.

Step 4. Proceed with the siding installation process itself - install the starter, corner and H-shaped strips, and begin laying the panels themselves between them.

Step 5. Start installing the finishing strip after installing the penultimate panel. Determine how many pieces of this additional element you will need and what their length should be. Cut using a fine-toothed hacksaw.

Step 6. Climb under the eaves along with one of the sections of the finishing strip and install it there so that the surface with the mounting holes is facing down, the lock for the siding panel is facing up.

Important! For your own safety and ease of work, install the finishing strip for siding on a stepladder, or, even better, on scaffolding.

Step 7 Secure the finish strip in place using screws or nails. The fasteners must have an anti-corrosion coating or be made of appropriate materials. Wrap screws and nails in the middle of the holes made on the finishing strip. They are necessary to compensate for the longitudinal expansion and contraction of the additional element when the temperature changes. The interval between fasteners should be from 3 to 5 such holes.

Important! There is no need to screw the screws in completely - leave a gap of about 1 mm between the head of the screw and the surface of the finishing strip. It can be maintained by inserting a coin of 5 or 10 kopecks.

Step 8 Measure the distance from the second to last siding panel to the top edge of the finishing strip. Subtract 3 mm from the resulting figure.

Step 9 Using the measurements from the previous step, measure and cut the siding panel to the appropriate height. Then at the top make rectangular holes perforating pliers. The interval between them should be 10 cm.

Step 10 Climb under the eaves and insert bottom part the last siding panel into the locking element of the previous one. Then carefully place the top edge of the panel (the one you previously made holes in) into the locking part of the finishing strip. Check if the contact between them is reliable.

After completing all the operations indicated above, carry out the installation and edging of the soffits, which are necessary to finish the inside of the cornice hanging over the wall.

Using the same principle as stated earlier, install the finishing strip when laying the siding vertically. Only in this case, install the additional element together with the corner profile, and their mounting holes must coincide.

Using the instructions presented above, you will successfully install the finishing strip and end up with a beautiful and durable finish for your façade.

Siding panels are a spectacular design for the facade of a house. Thanks to modern technologies this finishing material can imitate almost any surface - stone, wood, brick. The popularity of such decorative panels due to low cost, as well as excellent quality characteristics. You can install the siding yourself. This does not require any special skills. Just use the instructions below for installing siding with your own hands for dummies.

The sequence of work when installing siding is almost always the same. Here are the main stages of arranging the facade of a house using this technology:

1. Installation of decorative panels always begins with the installation of a starting profile. Later it will be completely hidden by the first plate. If the starting profile is not fixed level, then subsequent panels will lie unevenly on the wall, so you need to constantly monitor the correct installation.
2. Each siding plate is equipped with a special lock, with which it is fixed to the previous one. There is perforation at the top of the panel. It is through these holes that the plate is fastened.
3. After the wall is completely assembled, the work must be completed by installing the finishing strip.

When installing siding, you should take into account possible linear expansion and contraction of the material due to temperature changes. To prevent panels from bursting when weather conditions change, it is necessary to create temperature gaps. Siding should not be inserted tightly into vertical and corner strips. The head of the screw/nail that secures the plate should not press it tightly against the frame. The panel should be fastened in the middle of the perforation hole, which will ensure its mobility when temperatures change.

There are no specific rules at what temperature to install siding. It is advisable that the temperature outside is at least minus 10 degrees. But the size of the temperature gaps depends on the time of year in which the installation is carried out. In summer, the side gap should be about 10 mm; in winter, it should be increased to 12 mm.

Rules for installing vinyl siding yourself

Installation of any siding begins with the assembly of the frame. It can be vertical or horizontal. More often vertical frame Suitable for panels such as shiplap or blockhouse.

Arrangement of a vertical frame

First, draw a vertical line at the corner of the house using building level and prepared plumb lines. Holes are drilled along the line at equal distances on both sides for attaching hangers or mounting brackets into which the metal profile is installed. Next, the same guide is attached to the opposite corner of the wall and a construction cord is stretched between them. Adhering to the given level, the remaining guides are attached in increments of no more than 40-50 cm.

It is necessary to additionally install frames made of profiles around windows and doors. In these places, near-window strips or casing will be attached. Additionally, reinforcement of the frame will be required in those places where it is planned to install lighting lamps or a split-system motor unit in the future.

Panel assembly

Once the frame is completed, you can begin the sheathing process. Panels different manufacturers have various designs additional elements and fixing locks. But instructions for connecting them usually come with the kit. vinyl siding. However, there are general principles for fastening panels:

• corner profiles are attached strictly vertically;
• fix the siding panels starting from the middle to the edges;
• When attaching the plates, the self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws are not tightened to the very end.

Useful advice! To get a gap between the screw and the siding plate, screw it until it stops and then unscrew it one turn.

Assembly begins with the installation of starting and corner strips. Ordinary vinyl panels are subsequently inserted into them. Since corner strips are quite flexible, they can be used to create both obtuse and sharp corners. To obtain an obtuse angle, the bar is pressed down a little, and for an acute angle, it is compressed.

A special H-connector is provided for joining row panels. It is necessary when the length of the plate is not enough to completely cover the wall. You can do without using this element. Then the plates are screwed together with an overlap.

Rules for installing metal siding: instructions

The principle of covering a facade with metal siding is the same as with vinyl siding. For installation you will need:

• internal and external corners;
• starting rail;
• connecting profile;
• finishing rail;
• platbands.

Installation of metal siding begins from the corner of the building. The first row of panels is attached to the starting rail with a bottom lock. The following rows are secured with the lock of the previous row. This is how the entire wall is gradually covered. The top row is fixed with a finishing strip.

Useful advice! If during installation it is necessary to lengthen the corner strips, then upper part should be mounted on the bottom with an overlap of 2-2.5 cm.

Installation instructions for basement siding

To install basement siding, you will also need to install sheathing. It is performed by creating the same frame as for the walls. If there is no concrete or tile covering around the house, then the lower ends do not reach the ground by about 7-10 cm. Additionally, before you begin installing the basement siding, you need to check how level the foundation is. To do this, measure the height of the base along the entire perimeter. If the height is the same everywhere, then you can use a starting profile for cladding. But if there are significant differences, then you will have to trim the very first panel.

Usually the sides of the plinth panels are stepped, so the protruding parts near the corners will have to be cut off. A straight edge must be inserted into the corner profile. It is also necessary to match the size of the panels and their number from the long wall in advance. The final plate should not be less than 20 cm. The final touch can be considered the fastening of the J-profile around the entire perimeter of the base. It is necessary to protect against moisture.

Photo instructions for installing siding

To ensure that the first siding panel is well secured, a starting strip is specially mounted. It is from this element that the façade cladding begins. In this article we will tell you how to install a starting strip for siding with different types of base and about individual features using the starting bar.

Specifications

The starting bar cannot be seen as it is covered by the first panel. For this reason, its main technical parameters this is the length. As a rule, this indicator will depend on the length of the siding panel. The starting strip should be selected immediately when purchasing siding so that there are no discrepancies.

As for the merits of the starting bar, several aspects can be highlighted:

• The starting bar is not deformed, does not corrode or crack.
• Under the negative influence of atmospheric precipitation, it does not lose its technological properties in terms of strength and integrity.
• No special tools are required to install the starter bar.
• The plank is not flammable.
• When exposed sun rays or when the temperature changes, the starting bar does not lose its strength.

Installation features

As mentioned above, this strip is mounted directly in front of the siding sheathing. Based on the fact that the base can be different types, installation of the strip is performed in different ways. There are three types of base:

1. Smooth.
2. Sunken.
3. Speaker.

When installing the starting strip on a sinking and level base, the installation principle is the same. A protruding base requires a different approach. In some cases installed sheathing on the wall can turn a protruding plinth into a recessed one.

Pay attention! The starter strip is installed not only to begin installing siding. It is also used for cladding attics and finishing gables. The plank can also be installed from the second or third floor.

Installation on a receding and level base

The wall level between the plinth and the wall is often called “zero”. It is this boundary that must be found before starting work. To do this, you can use a water level, which checks every corner of the house. They need to determine the lower point of installation of the starting profile. For example, let's take a starting profile, the width of which is 6.4 cm. From the bottom point found on the wall, measure this width and hammer a nail into the wall. Along the entire perimeter of the house at each corner, the nail is driven in at the same height and level.

Pay attention! Sometimes the sheathing can be done with a slight overlap on the base. To do this, retreat not 6.4 cm, but 5 cm. The overlap can be of any width, but it should not overlap the middle of the plank itself.

Connect the hammered nails with one cord. This cord indicates the upper limit of the starting bar. To prevent the cord from interfering with the installation of the plank, you can rub it with chalk and mark a line around the entire perimeter of the house.

Next, check the entire length of the house for the presence of sheathing. It should be enough to install the starting bar. In some cases, it may be necessary to increase the sheathing, especially if the base is far from horizontal and some corners are strongly raised up.

After this work, you can proceed directly to installing the bar itself.

Pay attention! Any unevenness in the starting strip can lead to defects in the siding in subsequent rows.

For installation, a distance is measured from the corner of the house, which will be the same as the width of the corner profile (75 mm) or j-profile (46 mm). In this case, you must not forget to take into account the presence of a temperature gap of up to 5 mm.

Pay attention! The starting strip for siding can be made in any color, since it will be completely covered by the siding.

Now you step back from the corner by the width of the profile plus the temperature gap. Place the starting bar in this place and secure it. All this must be carried out according to the markings carried out. The top edge of the plank must completely coincide with the mark along the entire perimeter of the walls. The plank can be secured with nails or self-tapping screws. They are inserted into a special perforated hole. After installation, the bar should be moved from side to side, returning to its original place. Nothing should interfere with these movements. After installing the first strip, you also retreat up to 10 mm for the temperature gap and install the next starting strip.

According to this principle, installation is carried out along the entire perimeter of the facade. During work, from time to time you can check the bar for horizontalness using a level.

Mounting on a protruding plinth

Before installing the starter strip on the protruding plinth, it is necessary to install the flashing. It will protect the base from moisture. To do this, it will be enough to use a 10 cm wide ebb. Before installing it, the surface of the base, and it can be made of brick, stone or concrete, must be leveled. If the base is wooden, then it is treated with an antiseptic. The search for the bottom point of the wall follows the same pattern as with a flat or sinking base. A line is also drawn along the entire perimeter of the walls.

The ebb is mounted from the corner. A meter-long piece of ebb is cut off. It is necessary to make a cut in it so that the desired external or external angle is formed. Each subsequent ebb is installed with an overlap of 2.5 cm.

When the ebb is fixed along the entire perimeter of the facade, you can begin installing the starting strip. To do this, measure 4 cm from the low tide bar and again mark the line with chalk. Next, the starting strip is installed according to the same principle as with a flat or sunken base.

Video

Setting the starting bar is very simple:

When finishing with siding, you will definitely need special components. Some of them perform a decorative and protective role, and some, such as the plinth for the facade, are needed to fix the material or as guides.

In any case, it will not be possible to do without additional elements.

All manufacturers of this facing material, in addition to the siding itself, they produce a certain set of components intended for its installation.

They may differ slightly from each other in profile, color, size and even have different names, but they are all designed to perform the same tasks:

• Protection of the “weak” points of the facade from moisture and other atmospheric influences;
• Design of façade components;
• Fixing the panels.

The base or starting strip for basement siding is the element with which the finishing of the walls begins. It is installed along a horizontal line marked 40 mm above the bottom edge of the trim.

Subsequently, the bottom edge of the panel is inserted into the starting fastener. The upper edge of the cladding is attached to the sheathing or wall. Below we will take a closer look at how to install a plinth strip with your own hands.

Pay attention!
The cladding completely hides the starting strip, so it does not have to be matched to the color of the panels.

It must be said that this part is used not only when installing siding. In particular, base strips are used for tiles and other facing materials.

Connecting and decorative accessories

As mentioned above, there are quite a lot of additional elements that are used for different purposes:

• H-profile (connecting fastener)– for connecting panels to each other when increasing the length or when changing from one color to another.
• Drain or hanging plate– used to protect building basements and window bends. Mounted at the junction of the base with the trim or at the top of the openings.
• External and internal corner– components for connecting panels at intersections of planes.
• J-bevel (wind panel) used for finishing roof eaves.
• Platbands and window panels used for finishing door and window openings.
• – installed before installing the last panel, masking its perforated or trimmed edge.

Pay attention!
From configuration and availability additional elements, the price of the facing material also depends.

It follows that necessary set components largely depends on the area of ​​the building in which siding is applied. For example, for a kitchen you won’t need a windshield, but platbands will be useful, while for a completely different set of parts.

From installation plinth strip further cladding depends, therefore this process special attention needs to be paid.

So, the instructions for installing the starting bar are as follows:

• First of all, you need to find the bottom point of the future cladding, after which you need to move up 40 mm from it.
• Then, using a building level, a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the facade. If the siding is attached to the sheathing, it is necessary to make marks on the vertical profiles.
• Next, the upper edge of the part is applied to the line or marking and fixed with self-tapping screws to the supporting structure or wall through the perforation holes.
• When mounting the “start”, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5-6 mm between the ends of the fasteners, this will allow them to expand freely when temperature changes occur. Otherwise, you can get a ripple effect on the cladding. The same distance should be left between the fasteners and the framing elements.

Pay attention!
Self-tapping screws and nails should be driven not from the edge, but into the middle of the oblong hole.
The fastener should not be very tight so that the part can move along the wall, within the mounting hole.

The photo shows the installation of the finishing strip