Axe- a chopping tool, consisting of a wooden handle, usually short, and a blade, which is located longitudinally or perpendicular to the shaft. The latter are called tesla. They cut out grooves during the construction of huts and ships, princely mansions and churches, hollowed out troughs, boats, cut sculptures, toys and other wooden products.

The secret of the durability of products chopped with an ax is that the fibers of the wood are crushed under the blow of an ax and do not allow moisture to pass through. This does not happen when sawing, when the pores of the wood are left open for rot to enter.

What types of axes are there and what are they used for?

The etymological dictionary gives several versions of the origin of the word, starting from the Bulgarian “axe”, Slovenian “topor”, Czech, Polish, etc. Experts consider the ax to be an Orthodox word and associate it with “to trample”, otherwise “to beat”, if talking about the heart, from Ukrainian “teporiti” - drag with difficulty, Bulgarian “tapty” - I interfere, I trample.

The wooden handle is called an ax handle, metal part, having a blunt rounded end on one side - a butt. Choosing a stick with a round cross-section would not be the best option. It is much more convenient if the cross-section is oval and the ax handle consists of straight and curved sections. Its tail bends down for easy grip.

On the other side there is a blade with a sharpened working blade. Sometimes products have a beard-protrusion on the blade next to the mount, which protects the ax handle from impacts on the metal and strengthens the fastening of the wood with the metal part of the product. It is believed that such axes are descendants of battle axes from Northern Europe. Most often, carpentry tools have beards; they are indispensable when working with wood.

Axes were used as cold military weapon, chopping and throwing.

Depending on the application, axes are:

Another variety is double-sided. The blades can have different sharpenings and are designed to perform a wide range of work. They can be used as throwing weapons as they are well balanced. Products are made from high carbon steel. The other side of the coin is their risk of injury, high price, uncomfortable handle, and lack of impact function.

Manufacturing

Making blades from high-carbon steels protects axes from mechanical damage and allows them to withstand temperature changes. The blade does not require periodic sharpening; during operation it is not damaged by the appearance of nicks and scratches. A stamp is placed on the head indicating the grade of metal. Forged products more durable and heavier, preference should be given to this type of metal processing.

According to the width of the cutting part, the tools are:

1. wide;
2. average;
3. narrow.

If the blade of a metal blade is sharpened at an angle of less than forty degrees, the tool penetrates deeper into the wood, but also quickly becomes dull. Combined sharpening allows you to save the blade from damage if the blow falls on the edge of the metal; with this method, the central part is sharpened at a sharper angle than the edges.

The blades are either straight or rounded. The latter, due to the reduction in area and increased pressure on the contact points, acquire better cutting qualities.

Axes with a plastic shaft are as strong as wooden ones, but lighter. Sometimes wooden axes are made with a rubberized handle to absorb shock and protect the wrist.

Choosing the right tool

1. the optimal length of the ax is from the wrist to the shoulder joint;
2. the ax handle must be completely covered by the hand to avoid injury.

If you choose a short handle, you will have to make too large an amplitude of movement in order to increase the force of the blow, and the recoil into the hand will also increase. This will prevent a long and productive work with a tool.

If you plan to constantly work with the tool, you should give preference to an expensive, high-quality product. If work happens occasionally, buy more cheap option. A product from one manufacturer may have large price differences depending on its sale on the market or in a large store.

Features of the design of taiga axes

Taiga axes are truly universal. The tools are capable of felling trees, butchering animal carcasses, chopping wood for a fire, processing and splitting logs along the grain, and building huts. They are highly durable and serve for many years. They are used by rangers, commercial hunters, geologists, foresters and tourists.

The taiga tool differs from the carpenter's ax in the length of its handle. As a rule, it is longer than 50 centimeters and allows you to make a wide swing to increase the impact force when chopping. The head blade does not have an upper part. If necessary, you can independently change or adjust the blade of an existing ax. Cutting the upper toe reduces the weight of the tool, strengthens the upper part of the head when working at low temperatures, it is more convenient to work with such an ax. The blade shape is rounded to allow for various forestry tasks. The head has a beard for strength.

In the eye, or seat, to strengthen the fastener, a wedge or steel nail is inserted. The fungus - a place on the handle - should not allow the hand to slip. The ax head can easily replace a hammer if necessary.

When choosing a taiga instrument, three rules must be followed. The tool must be selected individually according to the man’s height, taking into account frequent use, the main weight should fall on the metal head, the optimal weight of the tool is selected from the point of view of carrying the product and performing the impact function.

DIY taiga masterpiece

Let's make a taiga ax from an old one with our own hands. For manufacturing, you will need a metal head from another product. It is cleaned of rust. If the damage is deeply ingrained into nicks and cracks, the metal is soaked for a day in a vinegar bath, then cleaned with sandpaper.

The next step is to adjust the tool head to fit the taiga specimen using a grinder.

For the ax handle, choose a tree with hard wood. Beech is best suited for this role. To prevent dampness, the handle on which the head is mounted is soaked in oil in several stages. It is recommended to use drying oil, wax, boiling oil, or linseed oil.

But it should be dried in ultraviolet rays in order to start the process of hemolytic cleavage, during which some bonds in the substance break down and stronger ones are formed. The process ends when the product becomes dry, rough to the touch and leaves no marks on your hands.

The product receives additional strength and water resistance. The wood fibers should run along the handle; manufacturers sometimes mess around and paint over the product if the grains are located at an angle. The strength of the ax handle in such a product is reduced.

The metal part is placed on the butt of the handle so that the ax extends one and a half centimeters above the head. Having achieved a tight fit, the head is removed and several cuts are made in the butt, not reaching the seating depth by 5 millimeters: one longitudinal cut and two transverse ones.

To prevent the ax handle from cracking, the cuts are drilled out. Now wedges are prepared from the same material - five wedges will be required - and the structure is reassembled.

For strength, they are held together with epoxy resin, reinforced with bandages to enhance the tightness of the fit. Beech wedges are driven in, securely securing the seat. All excess is cut off and the product is carefully polished. Over time, the epoxy becomes unusable; to remove it, axes are burned in a fire. In this case, you can use wood glue.

The final touch is sharpening the blade.

To avoid accidental injuries, you can sew a protective cover onto the metal part.

Correct sharpening of the tool

The product can be sharpened manually and mechanically. Each has its own secrets that you need to know in order to avoid dulling the blade and breaking the “sharpener”.

At manual When sharpening, a template is prepared from tin, the sharpening angle is selected, the desired shape is cut out and applied to the ax blade. A sharpening line is marked on the blade of the head with a marker. The action is performed by moving away from oneself; the process is labor-intensive and exhausting. Performed in several steps using grinding wheels made of sandstone with grains of different sizes.

At mechanical When sharpening an ax, experts do not recommend rushing; they do not recommend working with a grinder; you should choose low speed processing. For the desired sharpening angle, finishing paste is used, the grinding wheel is coated with it and the product is ground.

After sharpening, the tool blade is protected against rust with lithol, grease, machine or waste oil. It is best to keep the instrument in a dry place.

Compliance with safety regulations

1. do not leave the ax on the ground so that the tool does not rust and the ax handle does not become damp;
2. the head of the product should not dangle on the handle;
3. when cutting logs, place wood underneath so as not to damage the blade on stone or metal;
4. Make sure you have enough space to swing the ax freely.

In every country house there are a number necessary tools For various works. To build a house, chop wood or butcher meat, you need an ax. You can buy it in a store or make it yourself. The purchased tool may turn out to be inconvenient or unreliable, and this is unsafe. A handmade tool is particularly convenient and reliable. Before you make an ax handle with your own hands at home, you need to know what an ax looks like, what parts it consists of, and decide on its purpose.

Types of axes

The tool is usually classified according to the type of handle.

In addition to basic axes, there are tools designed for special work. These include: cleaver, carpenter's axe, large carpenter's axe, sculpture axe, as well as a shaped tool and an ax for concave surfaces.

Making your own ax

The components of an ax are: an ax handle, a metal blade and wedges. How easy and convenient it will be to work with the tool depends on the length and shape of its handle, called the axe. Let's look at how to make it correctly and in the right size. To do this, you need to select the material and cut out the workpiece according to the template.

Homemade product impregnated with a protective agent, this will help protect the ax from rotting. Impregnation is done in several layers of drying oil or linseed oil. Each subsequent layer must be completely saturated. It is not recommended to coat products with varnishes and paints. They will give the handle a sliding effect, and the ax will constantly begin to slip out while working. Sometimes a bright dye is added to the impregnation. The tool handle acquires bright color, and this is good when work is carried out in overgrown areas. The ax will always be visible and will not get lost.

Selecting a metal nozzle

You can’t forge metal tightly with your own hands, so you buy it at a hardware store. Tips for choosing a piercing part:

1. A high-quality blade should be solid, without nicks, chips or dents.
2. The metal is marked according to GOST.
3. The ends of the butt should be perpendicular to the blade.
4. The eyelet should be cone-shaped.

Attaching an ax to an ax handle

The process is carried out in several stages, such as fitting, fitting and wedging.

You can eliminate cracks that occur when installing a metal sheet using epoxy resin. It is poured into the cuts before driving the wedges. The resin will dry in a day. And only then can you saw off the protruding part.

Blade sharpening and hardening

The performance of the tool depends on the sharp blade. Therefore, you need to know how to sharpen an ax correctly. For each type of work, a different blade processing angle is selected.

Sharpening is done on an electric sharpening wheel, smoothly moving the blade along the circle at an angle of 45 degrees. To prevent the quality of the cutting edge from deteriorating, the blade must not be allowed to overheat. To do this, place a container of water near the grinding machine. The blade is periodically lowered into it for cooling. At the end of the work, the blade is polished. To do this, use a sharpening stone or sandpaper.

A metal blade made of soft material will have to be sharpened frequently. To avoid this, you can harden the ax. To do this you will need a gas burner, oil and water. The blade is heated on gas until a red color appears. Then it is dipped in oil and cold water. Everything is repeated 3 times.

DIY ax

If you live in a private home or often spend time outdoors, an ax will definitely be one of the basic tools that you should always have on hand. When at home, it can be used for chopping wood or cutting large bones. And in nature, an ax is an absolutely irreplaceable tool, because it will help you chop wood for a fire, put together a simple shelter from the weather, and even come in handy in cutting up game.

Unfortunately, not all instruments sold on the market are of high quality. To get a truly high-quality and convenient ax, it is better to make it yourself. This way you will be sure that the handle will be comfortable, and the blade will remain sharp for a long time and will not let you down at the most crucial moment. In this article we will look not only at the features of making axes yourself, but also describe the main types of this tool so that you can choose the model that is most suitable for your purposes.

Types of axes and their characteristics

At first glance, it seems that there are no special differences between the axes, although in fact they differ depending on the area of ​​use (Figure 1).

Among the main types there are:

1. Cleaver: used primarily for cutting firewood. It is this type of ax that is most often made independently, because it does not require any special skills. A distinctive feature of the cleaver is heavy weight and a cone-shaped blade. Due to its heaviness, the tool is excellent for cutting large logs or hard wood.
2. Carpentry: Usually such a tool is light and small, since its sharpened blade is used for precise and accurate work with wood.
3. Taiga: This ax is great for hunting and survival in wildlife in general, because with its help you can chop wood for a fire, clear the territory, build a shelter, and even partially butcher the hunted game.
4. Tsalda: This model is also called a tourist axe, because its shape and sharpness of the blade are excellent for clearing the area from dense bushes.
5. Kitchen: It has a sharp and durable double blade, but is used exclusively for cutting thick bones or frozen meat.

Figure 1. Main types of axes: 1 - cleaver, 2 - carpentry, 3 - taiga, 4 - tourist, 5 - kitchen

In addition, a lumberjack ax or ax is distinguished as a separate one. It has a long handle and a wide, sharp blade. However this type has a limited scope of application, as it can only be used for cutting down trees.

We have reviewed the main types of axes only briefly, but if this information is not enough, we will provide more detailed description main types, to make it easier for you to decide on the model of the tool for self-production.

Combat

A battle ax is more likely not a carpentry or tourist tool, but a very dangerous weapon that was used in ancient times in Rus' and by the Scandinavian Vikings (Figure 2).

Figure 2. Reproductions of battle axes

IN at the moment this weapon has lost its relevance, but for lovers of historical antiquity it may be interesting information about making a Viking ax close to the original with your own hands.

First of all, we should highlight the interesting shape of such an ax. Its blade narrows slightly towards the center and widens towards the edge. This was done so that the ax would serve as a reliable weapon in battle, and a good helper in everyday life.

By the way, the ancient Vikings built their famous drag boats with just such axes, and then plundered neighboring settlements using the same axes as weapons.

One more distinctive feature of this type - in a long handle, which made it possible to comfortably hold the weapon in the hand and make large swings during battle.

Wooden

A wooden ax is of no value either as a household tool or as a weapon, because its main difference is that not only the handle, but also the blade is made of wood. Moreover, no matter how strong the wood is, the finished tool will not be able to cope with chopping firewood or cutting other hard materials (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Wooden products perform exclusively decorative functions

In fact, this is a kind of costume element of a certain historical era, which may be needed during a masquerade or other similar event. However, if you are interested in how to make an almost real ax out of wood with your own hands, then we can clarify that the handle will have to be cut in exactly the same way as for a regular tool, but the blade will have to be hewn out of durable wood according to a ready-made template. Assembled structure You can decorate the pattern by burning or painting.

Hunting

A hunting ax is on the list of basic tools that must be included in the equipment of any hunter. Without this tool, it will be almost impossible to start a fire or build a simple shelter from the weather (Figure 4).

Contrary to popular belief, a hunting ax has nothing in common with a massive felling tool, although it is often used for the same purposes.

The basic requirements that a hunter's ax must meet are the following:

1. Compact size that allows you to carry the instrument with you over long distances without much discomfort.
2. Ergonomic design that allows long time operate tools without excessive fatigue.
3. The power and sharpness of the blade are also not the least important parameters. The sharpness of the ax will determine how quickly you can chop branches to light a fire.

Figure 4. Models for hunters

It is believed that a high-quality hunter’s ax should weigh no more than 750 grams at total length 30-40 cm. However, many amateurs active recreation in nature, given the disadvantages of such small hatchets, they still prefer to take more massive axes with them when fishing, which will help not only chop thin branches, but also chop quite large and hard logs.

Taiga

Of all types of axes, the taiga ax is considered the most versatile and indispensable during a hike or hunt. It has a relatively light weight, and the piercing surface has a small area, which allows you to drive cutting edge as deep as possible even in the most hard wood(Figure 5).

Figure 5. Taiga model of the tool

If you are planning to start making a taiga ax for personal use with your own hands, you should take into account that it is characterized by a special sharpening of the blade. Its rear edge is much smaller and thinner than the front, which ensures the high piercing characteristics of the tool.

How to make an ax step by step

Experienced hunters prefer to make axes with their own hands, because in in this case you can create a completely unique tool, adapted to your personal preferences and the functions that the tool will perform in the future.

Since it is considered the highest quality and most versatile taiga ax, we will provide detailed instructions and tips for making this particular model.

We select materials

The first stage of making a tool will be the selection of suitable materials, not only for the blade, but also for the handle. In this case, it should be taken into account that the ease of further use will directly depend on the shape and length of the handle, so it is better to make the handle oval and slightly curved.

Some lovers of folk crafts are interested in whether it is possible to make a whole stone ax and how to do it correctly. Of course, it is possible to carve such an imitation out of stone, especially if we are talking exclusively about a blade, but using such a tool in everyday life, and even more so while hunting, will be very problematic.

Theoretically, it is possible to make an entirely metal cast ax and put a rubber pad on the handle, which will prevent the hand from slipping while using the tool. But it’s still better to make the handle wooden and the blade made of metal.

It is better to use oak, maple, birch or ash wood as a material for the handle, since these species tolerate vibration well during impacts on a hard surface. It is advisable to prepare the wood in the fall and dry it in a dark place throughout the year. If you use damp wood, it will dry out over time and will not hold securely in the lug.

It is impossible to make a high-quality ax blade at home, so you will have to buy it at the market or in a store building materials. When choosing a workpiece, pay attention to the presence of GOST markings, which indicates that you are buying truly high-quality steel, and not a homemade blade melted down from old rails. It is also necessary to inspect the hole for the handle: it should be cone-shaped. Only in this case will the blade hold securely on the handle. In addition, carefully inspect the blade itself: it should be perfectly smooth, sharp and without any defects or nicks.

Preparing the template

A cardboard template will be needed first of all to make the handle. On cardboard you need to draw a future handle of the required shape and size, and then transfer this drawing to wood and cut it out using carpentry tools. Thanks to this algorithm of actions, you can create a handle with optimal ergonomics (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Necessary templates for making a tool with your own hands

If you are interested in how to make a high-quality taiga ax from an old double-sided ax handle, then you should immediately clarify that you will need a template in this case as well. The fact is that the taiga ax differs from an ordinary carpenter's ax precisely in the shape of the blade. In order not to take risks and not give it a shape “by eye”, it is better to immediately use a template. Then the workpiece will have the optimal shape and size.

Billet production

If you bought a ready-made ax head in a store or market, all you have to do is attach it to the handle. But, if you prefer to make a blank according to drawings from scratch at home, for example, from an old axe, you will need some advice on technology and design.

To do this you need to do the following:

1. Take an old ax head, and it is advisable to choose a product with a weight of no more than 1400-1600 grams.
2. The front protrusion of the blade must be cut down flush with the butt. It is in order to make an accurate cut that you will need a template. Despite the fact that a deviation of 5-8 degrees is considered acceptable, in real taiga axes the edge of the blade is exactly level with the butt.
3. The back of the blade should be made slightly rounded by sawing off some of the metal so that the entire touching surface of the blade has no corners. For this purpose, you can use a regular grinder, but a more accurate cut will be obtained with emery wheel with medium grain.
4. In the inner part of the blade you need to cut out a small semicircle, which will help you hold the ax more comfortably when carrying out more precise work. In addition, this semicircle will help to securely hang the ax from a branch, and the head itself will weigh about 200 grams less without losing the main mechanical properties axe.

Figure 7. Blade manufacturing procedure

At the final stage, you can cut off the upper parts of the butt so that it becomes more rounded. This will help increase the maneuverability of the tool, but if you are satisfied with it in its original form, this procedure can be omitted (Figure 7).

Hewing out an ax

An equally important role in the manufacture of a high-quality ax is played by the production of its handle. To make the tool comfortable to use, the handle should have an ergonomic shape, but at the same time be as simple as possible (Figure 8).

You can make it as follows:

1. The prepared dried wood is trimmed parallel to the grain. During the process, you need to ensure that the finished handle is slightly longer than the original template.
2. The upper part of the handle, which will be inserted into the eye, needs to be made slightly wider than the main one.
3. To cut the ax handle more accurately, it is better to make small transverse cuts on the workpiece, not reaching the edge of the handle by 4-5 cm. This will help to quickly and easily remove the remaining wood.

Figure 8. Handle manufacturing steps

All hand transitions and angles are made using a chisel, and when the handle is completely made, it is sanded until smooth so that it is beautiful.

Water-repellent treatment

Since the taiga ax requires constant use outdoors, it is advisable to treat it with special water-repellent compounds. This will help protect the tool from constant exposure to moisture and minimize further restoration of the handle.

For processing the handle carpenter's tool you can use any protective composition for wood. All of them protect the material from rot and deterioration under constant exposure to high humidity.

Handle attachment

When the head and handle are ready, you can begin to directly assemble the parts of the ax. To do this, cut the top of the handle lengthwise and crosswise and cut into five small pieces of hardwood.

We take a piece of gauze, soak it in resin and use it to unwind the upper part of the handle so that it fits better into the hole on the piercing nozzle. Next, using a hammer, we hammer the handle into the head of the ax, and secure the prepared pieces of wood in the upper part of the ax handle (Figure 9).

Figure 9. Stages of assembly of the finished product

Blade sharpening

To give the tool the necessary sharpness, you need to correct sharpening ax (Figure 10). The sharpening angle directly depends on what kind of work you plan to do with the axe.

Figure 10. Blade sharpening mechanism

For example, in order for blows with the blade of a taiga ax to be accurate, sharpening is carried out at an angle of 30-35 degrees. For comparison, a lumberjack's ax, designed for working with raw wood, is sharpened at an angle of 25 degrees. As a rule, a special grinding wheel is used for this procedure. Since this tool requires caution, it is better to make the length of the ax long enough so that you can comfortably hold the tool at a sufficiently large distance and at an angle of 40-45 degrees to the grinding wheel itself. In this case, the rotation speed grinding wheel should be small so that the metal does not overheat, and the blade is sharpened to the highest possible quality.

We make a case for storage and transportation

To make the ax convenient to carry, a special case is made of thick leather or canvas (Figure 11). To do this, it is enough to create a pattern for the future cover and firmly sew the parts together. However, if you are going to use a large ax in the forest, making a special case for it is impractical, and the tool will have to be carried either without additional protection, or sew those separately for the blade.

Figure 11. Options for transport cases

Many hunters and outdoor enthusiasts prefer the latter option, as it makes it easier to carry the tool, which is extremely important if you were making axes yourself and the finished product is quite large in size.

Professionals recommend taking special care when choosing materials for making a homemade axe. For example, it is better to harvest wood for making a handle in the fall and then dry it in a dark place throughout the year. But the future handle will become even more durable if it is dried for five years. Of course, if you don’t have that much time, you can easily wait a year, but then treating the finished pen with water-repellent compounds will become mandatory.

It is better to buy a blade from construction stores or on the market, and preference should be given to products with GOST markings. This way you will be sure that the steel has undergone the necessary hardening and will not crumble or lose its sharpness when cutting down trees. In addition, when making an ax, you need to decide in advance for what purposes you will use it. The sharpening angle of the blade will depend on this, because axes for cutting wood, carpentry or hunting differ precisely in this parameter.

You can see what making an ax with your own hands looks like in practice in the video.

An ax is one of the most famous and accessible tools in the arsenal of most summer residents and professional craftsmen. If you use it correctly, you can simplify many work processes, resulting in great result. You can not only buy an ax ready-made in a specialized store, but also make it at home. This will not take much time, effort and cash. Today we will look in detail at how to properly make an ax handle with your own hands.

How to select and prepare wood?

Many jobs are impossible without a well-sharpened and strong axe. This tool is often needed in both household and larger-scale work. In retail outlets you can find many different models there are quite a lot of such tools, because there are quite a lot of types of axes themselves. It is possible to choose the ideal option in accordance with any requirements.

But there are also cases when the consumer could not find a suitable tool for himself. Many people in such situations find a simple way out - they make an ax themselves. For a tool to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements. So, to create an ax handle, it is very important to choose the right suitable material.

Not every type of wood is suitable for creating this ax part. It is believed that a true master will go around the entire forest before he finds the very tree from which he can make an ax handle. In most cases, this element of the ax is constructed from the root section of a birch tree, and even better, if you use the growths that are present on its trunk. These parts are distinguished by a very dense and curled structure.

Birch is not the only tree that can make a good ax handle. Instead, it is permissible to refer to trees such as oak, maple, acacia, ash and other deciduous trees that are classified as hardwoods. According to experienced craftsmen, beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm make the most reliable, comfortable and durable handles high quality. But it’s not enough to find the ideal material for making an axe. It is still necessary to properly prepare it for the upcoming work.

The workpieces must be thoroughly dried. This is done only under natural conditions, and it often takes a lot of time - on average 3-4 years, and better yet longer (5 years will be enough). Wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place with good ventilation. To the space where it will be prepared natural material, precipitation, dampness and water should not penetrate. Otherwise, there will simply be no sense in such drying, and good ax it won't work.

How to make a template?

If you have the material already prepared and dried to the required degree, then you should move on to the next stage of creating an ax handle. Next, you will need to competently make a convenient template, which will be an excellent assistant in further work.

Here it is important to take into account the fact that there are quite strict standards regulating the shape of the ax based on the main type of device. Thus, light tools, the weight of which usually ranges from 0.8 to 1 kg, are usually made with a handle having a length of 0.4-0.6 m. As for the more “serious” heavy axes, there is a length of 0.55-0.65 m. We must also take into account the fact that everything existing species axes are divided according to their main functionality.

So, the following types of these tools are distinguished:

• carpentry;
• lumberjack;
• knotty;
• cleaver;
• butcher's

Before you start designing such a tool yourself, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with detailed drawings of different models of handles.

When making a template, a number of important features should be taken into account.

• So that during the work the ax handle does not slip out and does not jump out of the hands at the moment of swing, its “tail” must be made a little wider than the gripping point.
• When making an ax for a cleaver, you need to make a part 0.75-0.95 m long. Carpentry tools are made short. Their handle generally reaches 0.5 m.
• Another 8-10 cm should be added to the handle length parameter for the butt for allowance. It will be possible to cut it off after installing the butt. It is very important to ensure that the tree does not begin to split at this moment.

The template with its correct shape and all dimensions will need to be applied to paper or cardboard.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

It is not difficult to prepare an ax handle with your own hands. To do this, you need to adhere not very much complex technology carrying out work. Let's get acquainted with it:

• mark the workpiece using a template;
• after this it can be carefully cut out with a jigsaw or other similar tool;
• Next, the prepared part will need to be turned on a special machine and polished.

There are a number important rules, which must be adhered to as work progresses.

• Processing the fixing area of ​​the ax must be done as carefully and carefully as possible, so as not to accidentally remove excess part of the wood. Otherwise, the butt simply will not be able to be firmly fixed in place. It is better to periodically try the handle on the eyelet, so that in the end you get a small margin (no more than 2 cm).
• You should not use a file while finishing the part. This will lead to inevitable loosening of the wood. Because of this, it will be more difficult to work with him further. It is better to use fine abrasive sandpaper and a grinder rather than a file. You will need to move the tool along the wood fibers.
• Give final, correct and beautiful shape the fixing point of the handle is necessary, taking into account the angle of the butt attachment. As for the cleaver, the specified angle for it should be approximately 85 degrees. For a standard ax – 75 degrees.

At self-production the ax must be used very carefully. There's no need to rush. If desired, you can decorate the handle of the tool with patterns and carved decorations (for example, you can wrap it with jute cord - it will hold the blade more securely). When the ax handle is ready, you will need to correctly install the cutting part on it.

Let's look at how to do this.

• Adjust the top of the piece to the eye of the blade. Remove the excess wood with a knife. Be careful.
• On the handle, set horizontally, the cutting part should be placed on top. Then you need to make a mark on the handle with a pencil until it will be driven in. Divide the segment and make another mark.
• Secure the handle in a vertical position using a vice. The wide part should be at the top. Prepare a hacksaw for metal. Make a cut exactly to the second wedge mark.

• At a specialized retail outlet, pick up a wedge made of metal or make it yourself from wood.
• Place the board on a separate tabletop. Point the blade at it. Place it upside down. Place the prepared ax handle over this part, tapping it on the board. Now turn the tool over and tap the handle on the board. The part will continue to fit. These steps should be repeated many times. As a result, you will be able to thoroughly drive the ax into the eye.
• Then place the part in a vertical position. Install a wedge into the cut. Hammer it in with a mallet. Saw off any excess protruding parts

How to protect against rotting?

The wood from which the ax handle is made, like other similar materials, is susceptible to rotting. Such problems always arise over time or in inappropriate storage conditions for the instrument. It is important to take care of your homemade ax in advance, protecting it from rotting. It is strongly not recommended to use compositions such as varnishes or paints to protect wooden handles. The ban on the use of such compounds is due to the fact that their presence on the handle can lead to it slipping out of the hands during certain work. The reason for this is the glossy smooth texture.

The optimal solution for protecting the ax from rotting would be other suitable impregnations. Can cover the handle linseed oil or good old drying oil. There are other highly effective antiseptics, which will extend the life of natural wood. But we must take into account that they will need to be applied periodically. Don't forget this procedure.

Some craftsmen add red pigment to antiseptic protective products. People turn to such tricks not at all to make the instrument more interesting. appearance. After this coating, the ax will be much easier to find in the grass, because its color will become brighter.

Please note that the ax handle should be made so that its cross-section has a characteristic oval shape. Only by observing this condition will you be able to successfully hold it without straining your hand too much. In this case, blows with an ax will be more accurate and easier. It is recommended to make wood blanks for creating an ax handle in late autumn. It is during this period that the movement of sap is reduced to a minimum (almost stops), which means that the tree becomes, as it were, dehydrated.

Many inexperienced craftsmen neglect drying wood to build an axe. As a result, this ends up with the handle changing in size, and the metal part with the butt on it holds very poorly. It is permissible to use undried material only in special situations, when the handle needs to be built urgently, and this spare part is made as a temporary one.

When making a brand new ax handle yourself, you need to draw up a detailed drawing/template of the future tool. If you have a very convenient old ax in your arsenal, then you can remove all parameters from it. This will make it much easier and more convenient. Don't rush into turning cutting edge tool. First you need to make sure the metal is sufficiently hard. If it turns out to be too soft, then it will need to be additionally hardened under the influence of high temperatures.

It is permissible to begin sharpening the ax blade only after installing it on the ax handle.

It is very important to use a ready-made ax (both homemade and store-bought) correctly. Experienced craftsmen It is strongly recommended not to try to cut various metal parts with such a device. Even if you plan to cut wood, it is better to make sure that there are no solid particles inside that could harm the tool.

It is strongly recommended not to throw the finished tool onto hard surfaces, especially from a great height. It is not recommended to leave the ax under open air. Precipitation or aggressive sun rays may have a negative impact on quality wooden part. Keep this tool in a dark and dry place. Only under this condition will the ax serve you for many years.