I will call this method "waste to income."

First about the advantages of this method:

1. No material investment
2. Labor costs are minimal
3. All you need is a shovel and a bucket

Now let's go directly to work .

We choose a bush or tree that needs to increase soil nutrition. Actually, any pet in the garden needs it.

We retreat from the trunk of a bush or tree so as not to damage the root system and so that the branches do not interfere. For example, in an adult apple tree, I retreat from the trunk by about a meter.

And we dig a hole wide and deep on the bayonet of a shovel:

As you can see, here I retreated from the trunk of the bush in general about twenty centimeters. my model in this case a honeysuckle bush protrudes (honeysuckle goes into hibernation early, which is why the bush looks so unsightly).

For the show, I prepared half a bucket of carrion.
We pour the carrion into the pit:

And right in the pit we chop with a shovel:

We make three or four such holes around the trunk of a bush or tree:

We put the dug earth nearby.

The holes are gradually filled.
As soon as kitchen waste appeared, I throw it there.
As she collected bad fruits or weeded the beds, she threw plant residues into the pits.
Slop is also poured into the pits.

As soon as the pits are filled, they must be covered with the excavated earth. Perhaps a mound is formed. Not scary! As it rots, as well as during the winter, plant waste will freeze and settle. And by spring the earth will be level.

You can make such pits or trenches anywhere in the garden. And not only around already planted bushes or trees. This can be done at the intended site for planting a tree or shrub. Only, of course, this must be done in advance so that plant waste has time to rot and turn into compost.

You don't have to worry about the lawn. There is a flat lawn around my adult apple trees. And no one guesses that sometimes I feed apple trees in this way. I carefully remove the sod, take out the earth on an oilcloth, do everything that is described above, sprinkle it with earth, and put the removed sod back. And the surplus land, if any, I scatter in the garden or use it for another purpose. For example, for indoor flowers.

I start preparing such pits at any time of the year, as long as the soil allows. That is from early spring to late autumn. But I, most often, do this summer and early autumn, because it’s not very pleasant to stomp in boots on squelching soil and freeze. And also because at this time there are especially a lot of plant waste: carrion, tops with horticultural crops. All this can become a wonderful compost right under the tree.

Thus it is possible prepare trench beds.

But it's better to cook them late summer or autumn for the next planting season.

To do this, I dig a trench deep on the bayonet of a shovel. I know a summer resident who digs with two bayonets. I think this is redundant work. But he seems to be more comfortable that way.
The width of the trench depends on how wide the bed I want to make. Length, respectively, too.

I put the dug earth (it will not be so much) next to it.
In the trench I put kitchen waste, plant residues, mowed grass, weeds (which have not yet inseminated!). If I want to make the bed warmer, then I put hay, sawdust, fallen leaves. It's kind of biofuel.

Of course, I do all of the above not at once, but over time. It happens that it takes a month to “stuff” the beds.

In the same way, I chop with a shovel and mix the contents of the trench in the process of “stuffing”, pour out the slop or spill it with water, if necessary.

As soon as the trench bed is filled with plant debris and other things, I lay the very dug earth on top. That is, the principle is the same as for the pit.

The bed will seem higher, but over the winter, of course, the internal contents will fall off.

Such beds will be warmer than ordinary beds, because they are quickly warmed up by the sun and decaying plant "garbage".

It is best to sow on such beds cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkins.
If a upper layer land at least 15 centimeters, then I still sow dill, lettuce, radish.

Other crops (especially carrots, garlic, beets) are best sown on this bed in a season, and preferably in two. Not all cultures like rotting plant "garbage".

The frequency is:

* in the 1st year I sow cucumbers, zucchini, zucchini, squash or pumpkin,
* for the 2nd year - peas, beans or other legumes, cabbage (I don’t “fill” the trench beds with anything)
* for the 3rd year - the rest of the crops (naturally, I don’t fill the trench beds with anything)

By the way, the "waste to income" method is perfect for those who has no opportunity or does not want prepare compost heaps or pits.

You don't have to search special place for a compost heap in a country house or personal plot. And you can easily dispose of all plant waste by preparing trench beds or landing pits.

In addition, there is no need to waste time transferring compost from a compost heap or pit to beds or under fruit trees and shrubs. The compost there already, one might say, "fits" itself, as evidenced by the teeming in such pits or trenches

Good day, dear visitor!

I get a lot of emails asking this kind of question.- "Can I use kitchen waste to mulch my plots in the country?" The answer is unambiguous - IT IS POSSIBLE, only I have doubts whether it is worth doing it and whether there is any practical sense in it.

You yourself understand we act not just to do something, but to do it in such a way that we don’t overdo it too much, and so that the benefits come from some kind of inclinations and pressing matters.

No, of course, you can do, do, and do ... something, and then redo it all or discover that our actions have gone to dust and there is absolutely no sense from the time and effort we spent on these actions.

I want to make a point right now that I didn’t use any kitchen waste as mulch in the plots in the country and I won’t use it, because I don’t see any point in it. If only because in order to mulch one plot in a thick layer, these same wastes need to be prepared - a wagon and a small cart (this is figurative).

Besides, all this waste(peeling potatoes, carrots, cabbage, beets, onions, etc.) laid in the plot as mulch in the spring will be ruffy, i.e. the layer itself will not be dense, and therefore the wind will “walk” inside this layer and blow moisture from mulch and soil.

And then what's the point in this mulch, if it does not cover the soil surface well, not fulfilling its main function - to retain moisture in the mulch and soil, which is necessary for the vital activity of microorganisms and plant roots?

But there's one thing which will help to use this kitchen waste effectively. Are you sure you already guessed?

That's right - this waste needs to be covered with another type of organic residue.(hay, straw, seed husks, sawdust, crushed bark, foliage, etc.) so that kitchen waste becomes inaccessible to the sun's rays and lies on soil surface under hay, straw, etc., were always damp.

And if they are wet then useful soil microorganisms will begin to process these FULL kitchen wastes, feed on them themselves, and what they cannot “eat” is the surplus from this processing (water, carbon dioxide, micro and macroelements) - will go to the roots of plants. You know that any organic residues break down into those chemical elements, which the plant used last year for itself in order to increase the vegetative mass - roots, leaves and stems.

You know, when the plant dies in late autumn and winter, then falls on the soil surface, and in the spring for its processing (under favorable conditions) are accepted different kinds soil microorganisms. This cycle of processing organic residues on our planet has been going on for millions, if not billions of years.

'Cause you won't deny that in the forest trees, shrubs and grass grow at the expense of forest litter? And in the meadow, the grass grows every season, due to the hay from last year's herbage! So every summer resident needs to store mulch for the soil of the dacha every season.

In fact, it doesn’t matter what we grow in the country- tomato, cucumber, apple tree, currant, carrot, grape, etc. - but there MUST be mulch on the surface of the soil under them. Then there will be no need to “feed” the plants, although we cannot “feed” the plants, because we have no idea what they need (in the sense of what kind of food) for different stages development - when opening eyes (or pecking seeds), during flowering or fruiting ...

I understand that they write everywhere if carrots grew in one plot last year, then the root crops “pulled” those nutrients that it needs for growth and development, and on next year carrots cannot be sown in the same plot. We are “rubbed” into our bright minds that we need to observe crop rotation for crop rotation in order for food to be restored, because another culture will consume a different food, etc.

But is it really so?

I think that this is another "dacha eyewash", because I have been planting garlic, carrots, tomatoes, peppers, etc. in the same plots for many years, and have not noticed any damage in the development of these annual crops. But what about perennials? fruit bushes and trees? After all, they are considered monocultures, as they grow in one place for many years.

And the point here is that the mulch lying on the soil surface under these perennial crops REPLIES the minimum soil nutrition that is necessary for their annual growth and development. In addition, you and I know that the lion's share of nutrition (93-94%) plants, and any, take from the air - these are gases: oxygen 21%, nitrogen 78% and carbon dioxide 0.03%. And on soil nutrition accounts for only 6-7% ...

From this we can draw a simple conclusion- in principle, there can be no damage to plants in the absence of any nutrition during the annual cultivation of the same crops in the same place. The soil minerals themselves are more than enough, since Earth's crust and is made up of these minerals. Yes, another part of the mineral nutrition returns to the soil from the decay of organic mulch - did you catch the idea ?! BUT…

But it (it is soil mineral nutrition) may not be available to plants and the point here is that with dug, bare and dry soil, which is “fried” under the direct rays of the sun, soil natural mineral nutrition is not available to plant roots due to the same dryness of the soil, and not due to soil depletion.

You understand very well that for chemical reactions to occur in the soil, water (moisture) must be present, and if it is not there, then those chemical elements that are in the soil will be inaccessible to our plants. Only after self-irrigation or rain in the soil is the level of moisture restored, at which the process of dissolution of soil minerals and their absorption by plant roots takes place.

But short-term watering (from weekend to weekend) this is not a way out and not the creation of conditions for CONSTANT moisture in the soil, in which the conditions for life are created for the soil inhabitants, and chemical processes are constantly taking place to form the necessary nutrition for any plants.

Only the presence of a decent layer of organic residues on the surface of the soil, used as mulch, can create a constant moisture, which is enough for the vital activity of soil inhabitants and for the development of plants.

See what happens- put the summer resident mulch on the soil and there is no need for frequent watering and “feeding”, and for ALL plants at once - cucumber, tomato, cabbage, apple tree, currant, gooseberry, dill, carrot, parsley, lettuce, etc.

Therefore, harvesting kitchen waste and using it as mulch in the country house under plants is a necessary thing, but all the same, this organic waste will be unspeakably small in order for the mulch layer to be satisfactory and to benefit both the soil, its inhabitants and plants.

No, well, for the sake of sporting interest or self-gratification possible in winter period collect kitchen waste, but again, their volume and quantity will be small. Therefore, along with the preparation of kitchen waste, you need to take care in advance of the accumulation of other types of mulch - hay, straw, husks, foliage, etc.

It is, of course, possible to decompose only kitchen waste on the soil under the plants and say Did I use mulch? But these will be only words, and there will be no sense at all, which means that all winter work will go to the cat ... you know where. And what then is the point of “shaking the air” and suffering from harvesting vegetable peelings?

For me, it's better to rub the straw in the fields after harvesting the grain x or, in extreme cases, to buy, than to indulge my self-esteem - that I am doing a useful thing and not a single cleaning is lost from me ?! It is clear that you can be self-satisfied, but what is the use of this?

Anyway, with “home-made preparations”, the required volume of cleanings cannot be collected for a good thick layer, but you can do this at the expense of canteens, cafes or restaurants, where there is mass cooking, and there is more than enough waste there. But who will carry potato peelings bags or "shuttle" bags from the restaurant (even at night, so that the neighbors do not see)? Nobody!

Yes, besides, these cleanings need to be dried somewhere at home, and this is another hemorrhoids for one place ... In general, continuous problems and troubles. In no case do I dissuade anyone from this procedure, but you need to understand the situation and keep in mind that the supply of hay, straw, foliage, etc. should be in the country in any way.

Now what to do with cleanings and how to prepare them at home, if there is a burning desire?

Everyone does it differently but my opinion is dry. See what happens. If you freeze potato, beetroot, carrot and other peels, then the whole freezer will clog during the winter and for right products there won't be enough space in freezer refrigerator. So? So. And if you buy a special freezer for this business, then how much will this “blank” cost in terms of money? That's it.

And if you don't bother with freezing cleanups, it turns out cheaper, cheaper - I peeled potatoes, carrots, beets, onions or something else, laid out all this household on a rag near the battery central heating and in a day the “dried fruits” are ready!

Poured them into a bag on the balcony or in the garage and let them dry until spring and stored. In the spring I came to the country house, poured out some of the kitchen waste IMMEDIATELY onto the soil, and covered (mulched) with hay, straw, foliage, sawdust, husks, etc. from above. Such a procedure will be useful and labor will not be in vain!

Then you can sow or plant your vegetables in this mulch through seedlings or sowing seeds. The same "organic sandwich" can be made under perennial crops - fruit bushes and trees, and, of course, under flowers. And the plants during the season will thank the summer resident for such a smart and competent use of organic residues, with their development - ruby ​​​​green leaves, an abundance of flowers and a delicious harvest!

Well, how do you like the prospect correct application kitchen waste?

Now I will express my personal opinion about home EM composters. It may not be true in terms of their use, but I think it is a useless job, both in terms of using kitchen waste and using ready-made compost in the country.

The point here is this. Firstly, it is expensive in terms of money - how much does the composter itself and the EM preparation cost ..., secondly, the useless extermination of household kitchen waste ..., thirdly, compost in the country will not bring the benefits for the soil and plants that the manufacturers promise ...

Now in order...

I'll start with the second because with the first paragraph, and so everything is clear. Why does home composting kitchen waste go down the chimney or at least, inefficient?!

Judge for yourself beneficial microorganisms that are in EM preparations, and which you need to spray kitchen waste in a compost bin, after a while will begin to “digest” them. So? Undoubtedly! At the same time, microorganisms will consume some part of the food themselves, and the remains will remain in the compost, but this is not the most important and wasteful.

The main thing is that organic residues break down into the main and main constituent chemical elements, from which tubers and root crops were grown last season - water and carbon dioxide. You will not deny the fact that in order for potatoes to grow, tops are needed, and for tops to grow, water and carbon dioxide are mainly needed.

See what happens. When the eyes on the tuber sprout (from the food reserves of the tuber itself) and crawl out into the light of God, they need additional nutrition in the form of chemical elements - water and carbon dioxide. As a result of a chemical reaction in the soil between these elements, carbonic acid is formed, which, in turn, is pumped by the roots into the stems and leaves of the potato.

This acid getting into the cells of the leaves, under the influence of solar energy, it turns into glucose molecules, through the flow of photosynthesis in the leaves. Then, during the breakdown of glucose molecules, the same chemical elements are formed from which glucose was created - water and carbon dioxide, and the solar energy, which participated in the process of creating the glucose molecule, is released and participates in the division and reproduction of plant cells, and the plant develops - grows, blossoms and bears fruit.

The process of creation (synthesis) and decay (analysis) of glucose molecules is CONSTANTLY! Therefore, plants intensively increase their green mass during the season, unless, of course, they grow in favorable conditions - mulched soil. Here's how amazing everything turns out - plants are one of the few living organisms on planet Earth (there are a number of microorganisms) that can create “flesh” from a set of chemical elements and solar energy.

In our case, the energy of the sun is involved in the growth of potato tops. and tuber growth and accumulation of starch in the tuber. And starch is the same glucose only in complex form- polysaccharide. When we eat potatoes, the starch in our body breaks down into simpler chemical elements, including glucose, and then it breaks down into water and carbon dioxide.

We breathe out carbon dioxide and water is excreted from the body in a natural way, and the released solar energy benefits our beloved body. In fact, we eat with you solar energy, which supports and prolongs the life of our body when eating vegetables and fruits.

Maybe I just talked about the main chemical elements, which plants use, but it makes no sense for us to go into details, since all these processes are very difficult to understand and study, at least for me ...

But not only water and carbon dioxide are needed by plants, this is natural. Both oxygen is needed for the process of "breathing" (oxidation), and nitrogen, which is part of all proteins nucleic acids, amino acids, chlorophyll, enzymes and many vitamins. Microelements are also vital - iron, silver, molybdenum, copper, boron, zinc, etc. If you have a desire, you can refer to the information in the "network" for a deeper study of plant processes.

And we return to our "composter" again ...

Just water and carbon dioxide during the decay of organic household residues, they are lost irretrievably in the “composter” itself, and do not participate in chemical reactions in the soil in the country and do not get to our plants. Then a legitimate question arises - is it worth doing composting at home, if this procedure is useful for country plants there isn't any?

Think for yourself...

Now we are smoothly moving on to the activity of compost, created by microorganisms in the compost bin, which the summer resident scatters on the soil in spring ...

Well, look... compost was created in the compost bin, the summer resident brought it to the dacha, scattered it on the soil, and what? And there is nothing useful from this compost and cannot be, because under the direct rays of the sun this compost dries up and turns into a dead substrate.

It turns out that there is he in the soil of the cottage or not, there is no difference. No, of course, it is filled with a number of chemical elements that plants in the country can use and it is full of useful microorganisms, but in dry form (roasted in the sun) it is just dead compost and there is no benefit from it.

To benefit from compost, it must be hidden from direct sun rays so that it is always moist and the microorganisms that are present in it come to life. By what means can this be achieved? You can use dark opaque material or organic mulch.

If you use opaque material, then the usefulness of the compost will increase, but not to the full extent, and here's why ... When covering the compost with material, the likelihood increases that the compost will be wet and the plant roots will get the chemical elements that are contained in the compost, but microorganisms will not develop in the compost one by one the reason is that there is no food for them in the compost.

Those organic residues that were used in home composting, eaten and microorganisms sit on a starvation diet. What do they need to be fed so that they come to life and begin to grow our own plants for us? The same organic residues - hay, straw, husks, dried vegetable peels, foliage, sawdust, crushed bark or wood, etc.

Then another glamorous question arises- why then bother with home composting, if the compost will still need to be mulched in the country?

And if you just put a thick layer of mulch on the soil of the cottage(without any homemade compost), then it will spontaneously come to life!

Because this same mulch will reliably cover the soil from drying out(from direct sunlight), which means that constant moisture will be maintained in it, and it (mulch) will be food for all soil inhabitants who need this food!

In this way, composting of organic residues will take place directly in the dacha plots where our plants grow and ALL the decay products of these organic residues - water, carbon dioxide, micro and macro elements - will participate in soil chemical reactions and will go to our plants!

Then why should we create problems for ourselves on empty place, I mean buying composters and EM preparations for recycling kitchen waste?

After all, you can do everything simply, competently and, in addition, with great benefits for the soil of the cottage, its inhabitants and plants - just dry the kitchen waste in the winter and mulch the soil in your plots with them from spring to autumn ?!

Well, where is it even easier?

Therefore, the conclusion on the preparation and use of kitchen food vegetable waste can be made as follows- can and should be harvested and used, if there is a desire!

However, one should not forget, that there will be few of them for a full-fledged mulching layer, and therefore you need to have an additional portion of hay, straw, husks, foliage, sawdust, etc. in stock to cover this home-made food waste in plots in the country from direct sunlight from above.

Here is my point of view I outlined to you about the use of household food waste.

But once again, I myself do not deal with household food waste and so far I don’t even think about bothering with this topic. I simply extract organic residues (hay, straw, leaves, sawdust, husks, crushed bark, etc.) and put them on the soil in boxes of plots, and then I sow and plant any vegetable crops in these plots. Under perennial crops lie the same organic remains as in the plots.

It's easier for me… Rather than fumbling with kitchen waste all winter, my son and I always collect straw in bags in the fields on fishing trips, of course, if they haven’t burned it. Yes, and when we visit relatives in the village, it is not difficult for us to fill a dozen bags of hay or straw.

Shortly speaking, everyone comes from their own desires and possibilities ...

What do you think about the collection and use of household food waste?

Best wishes,
Sergey Dyakov.

"Alternative fertilizers" - food waste

Let's talk today about the so-called "alternative" fertilizers. They are also organic fertilizers, and highest quality and completely free.

Alternative fertilizers include, first of all, all kitchen waste: egg shells, potato peels, onion peels, citrus fruit peels, spent tea, coffee grounds etc. And the volume of this organic waste in almost every family is very large.

Suffice it to recall the garbage bags, half-full of various food waste, which we take out every day in the trash bins. All of them improve the condition and structure of the soil and do not contain dangers in the form of fungi, harmful insects, chemical poisons, etc.

Let's start with the eggshell. Everyone knows that it is a source of calcium, neutralizes hyperacidity soil.

Calcium, in itself, plays an important role in plant life. The characteristic signs of a lack of calcium in the soil are a weak root system in plants, in trees - a shortened one, similar to stumps.

For vegetable crops, a lack of calcium results in a slowdown in the growth of vegetative organs, usually a juicy stem turns into a tree. Plants are easily susceptible to temperature fluctuations and die. And the most important indicator of a lack of calcium in the soil is its increased acidity.

Meanwhile, the eggshell contains up to 94% calcium carbonate (calcium carbonate) and 1.4% magnesium and is an excellent material for liming soils. The shell also contains elements such as iron, zinc, copper, cobalt, iodine, selenium, molybdenum, chromium, fluorine and others, which are so necessary for the active growth and development of plants.

A family of 3 people consumes up to 100 eggs per month, the shells from which most often go to dustbins. For a year, in this way, up to 10 kg of the most valuable fertilizer can be accumulated in each family.

It is only necessary to collect the shell carefully, folding it into cardboard box so that protein residues do not decompose, exuding bad smell. There it will dry in 3-4 days, then it must be kneaded and stored in paper bags, protecting it from moisture. Collecting the shells in plastic bags is not worth it, because. moisture from the air will condense in them, causing the protein to swell and rot.

Most often, gardeners simply scatter eggshells as a local fertilizer over the surface of the site, but this brings very little benefit to the plants, because. birds peck at it with great pleasure.

The shell is especially useful on heavy clay soils. acidic soils, since it, among other things, improves their structure well. Shredded shells are also good for a compost heap.

Before being introduced into the soil, dried eggshells must be carefully crushed, since the shell as a whole decomposes very slowly in the soil.

Some countries have long used processed eggshell flour as a calcium source. mineral fertilizer for plants and neutralization of acidic soils. But it is quite possible to make such flour at home. It is only necessary to take into account that for better absorption of calcium by plants, fine grinding of the shell is very important.

The necessary grinding is achieved by grinding the shell on a coffee grinder or in a mortar and sifting the resulting flour through a sieve with 0.1 mm holes. Flour obtained from eggshells is applied to the soil in autumn or before planting vegetable crops, scattering it before loosening.

When making such flour, it must be remembered that it decomposes very slowly. Therefore, you can not make it a lot and often, you need to know when to stop. The application rate of eggshell flour to a depth of 5-7 cm is 1 kg per 40 sq.m.

It is very effective to add calcium flour along with onion peel when planting seedlings (tomatoes, eggplants and others) at the rate of a quarter of a teaspoon under a bush. But potatoes do not need eggshell flour, as they grow wonderfully in acidic soils. Of the fruit and berry crops, the most calcium-hungry plants are garden strawberry, raspberry, cherry, apple tree, pear, plum, etc.

Of course, it is clear that adding only one shell flour to the soil will not replace liming the soil so much. But its systematic application will help to increase soil fertility.

A with inside shell contains a thin layer of protein film. Therefore, liquid fertilizer for top dressing can also be made from the shell in the summer. To do this, the crushed shell must be placed in glass jar, fill with water and close the lid. After 12-15 days, the water will become cloudy and acquire an unpleasant odor. This means that the nutritional infusion is ready. Before use for top dressing, it is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 3.

During the winter, you can stock up more and dried potato peelings. After all, most Russians never get tired of potato dishes. And if you consider that even with the very good quality about a fifth of the potatoes end up in waste, then the number of the latter over the winter is very, very decent.

These cleanings are dried on a radiator or frozen on a balcony. And in the spring in the garden they are poured into barrels and filled with water. And when they get wet, everything is mixed. AT garden bed mixed with soil, "mashed potatoes" will be to the taste of worms and billions of soil bacteria.

Such an infusion of potato peels is an excellent top dressing for cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, for all cabbage crops. Only tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and other plants of the nightshade family should not be fed with tuber peels: they naturally have many common diseases.

Due to the fact that pathogens of late blight, black scab and some other diseases can persist on potato peelings, it is advisable to first scald them with boiling water before use.

And sleeping tea and coffee can be added to the holes when planting seedlings in the ground, or simply mixed with soil and buried. They serve as good food for worms there.

But before pouring the asleep tea or coffee for storage, they must be thoroughly dried, otherwise they will become moldy. Any tea can be prepared: black, green, small, large, whole leaves, even tea bags can be used in this way.

And one more cleaning will help to cope with pests - these are orange and tangerine peels collected throughout the winter. Use them against aphids, thrips, spider mite etc.

To prepare an infusion from these wastes, it is necessary to pass 1 kg of crusts through a meat grinder and pour water in a three-liter jar. Close the lid tightly, insist in a dark place for five days. Then strain and squeeze well, pour into bottles, and cork tightly. And if you use dry crusts, then they must first be soaked, and then chopped.

For spraying take 100 ml of infusion and 40 g laundry soap per 10 liters of water, treat the plants with this infusion at least 5-6 times with an interval of 5-7 days. This treatment with orange peel infusion replaces weekly treatments with pesticides against aphids and spider mites.

And a few more words about one "alternative" kitchen fertilizer - "meat" water. This is the water left after washing fresh meat for food. Two liters of meat water can be obtained by washing 1 kg of fresh meat. At the same time, one should not strive to obtain a highly concentrated liquid, a slight turbidity of the water from the washed meat is enough.

The useful qualities of such water increase significantly if it is kept for 10-12 days. You can insist on such water on the balcony, in plastic bottle with a not very tight lid, into which it is advisable to first pour a handful of humus.

Since there are always many microorganisms in humus that should not be sterilized, during this time the bacteria will have time to decompose the protein into simpler molecules. This is an excellent fertilizer for feeding not only seedlings.

Of course, to feed all the plants in the garden by washing 3-4 kg of fresh meat, “meat” water is not enough. But it may well support your plants at difficult stages of development. Plus, it doesn't cost a single penny.

I know that some of my friends who have cars take them to country cottage area their kitchen waste, pouring it on compost heap. But most summer residents prefer to throw kitchen waste into the trash, without thinking about the benefits that they can bring to them and about possible savings. Money if you make some effort to save them until spring.

V. G. Shafransky

Prudent homeowners use food waste as fertilizer in the garden. In fact, this is not simple frugality, but concern for the health of the soil, replenishing its fertility. Think about how much vegetable waste, eggshells, discarded tea leaves and coffee grounds, without bringing any benefit, go to the landfill! But all this can be wonderful organic fertilizer for a garden and a kitchen garden.

What food waste is used as fertilizer in the garden

Probably the most popular food product is potatoes, they are part of many dishes and are very tasty and healthy food in their own right. And his skin, cut thin layer, removed after cooking, dried or frozen, can become a raw material for compost (like any other vegetable waste), top dressing for currants, pumpkins, zucchini, cucumbers (plants from the nightshade family should not be fed with potato peels, plants from this family are subject to the same diseases) and even a breeding ground for beneficial soil organisms that help plants absorb nutrients from the soil.

The peel is scalded with boiling water to get rid of phytophthora pathogens, after which, depending on the further purpose, they are poured with water for infusion - the resulting slurry is laid in the soil as a nutrient medium for microorganisms or buried in the ground without soaking. And also the skin of a potato can become a bait for catching Colorado potato beetles. It needs to be laid out in heaps in several places of the potato plantation and wait. When the beetles gather on the peel, collect them in an iron bucket, douse them with kerosene and set them on fire.

At our site, we boil potato peels, together with carrot and onion peels, for 15-20 minutes and water potted flowers and seedlings with this water. Put the boiled waste under the currant. Directly from above, without digging anywhere. A week later, there is no trace of them - that's all earthworms pulled apart.

natural fertilizer, rich in minerals, can be prepared from banana peel and vine branches. Any plants will gratefully respond to such a fertilizer. The skins and twigs are poured with boiling water and infused for several days, the resulting infusion is watered over the plants after watering with plain water. They can also be dried and used to prepare soil for seedlings and indoor flowers, mulch (more).

What else is thrown out in the kitchen that is not edible for humans, but very useful for plants? Eggshell. In a year, a family of three eats so many eggs that 4-5 kg ​​of eggshells are collected. It can be used as a drainage layer for flower pots, insist as a top dressing, can be crushed and applied to the soil. This fertilizer is rich in calcium and trace elements. But the soil should be not only nutritious. It should also be loose, moisture-permeable.

Tea and coffee have long been loved by many people. If you do not throw out the dormant tea leaves and coffee grounds, but dry and store them, a rather impressive supply of substrate can be accumulated to improve physical properties earth. If you mix tea leaves or coffee grounds with clay, heavy soil, it will be easier for plants to expand their root systems, the necessary air will flow to the roots, the water will be absorbed faster, which means it will water the plant faster and its excess will not remain in the soil. Also, these two kitchen wastes can be used as mulching material, this will help prevent excessive evaporation of moisture from the soil.

Here is another valuable video from Ivan Russky about using food waste to improve the soil:

When you buy vegetables, eggs, tea and coffee, you pay for peels, shells, tea leaves and grounds too, so why not use them? With such fertilizers, you can be sure of 100% naturalness and usefulness of the crop, and almost for free! If you are a beginner summer resident, feel free to use food waste as fertilizer in the garden - this is natural organic matter, and it will bring much more benefit in your dacha than in a city dump.

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Watermelon is loved by everyone - both adults and children. It is incredibly difficult to resist the sweet and fragrant watermelon pulp! Mark Twain poetically called watermelon “a special gift of nature that angels eat,” and doctors have long included it in the arsenal of healing and preventive remedies against many diseases. In order not only to enjoy juicy scarlet fruits, but also to have information about their beneficial properties, we will find out how watermelon is useful from the point of view of medicine.

Pulp: colorful and non-caloric
Watermelon pulp The fruit pulp of a striped berry is rich in easily digestible sugars - glucose and fructose, so all the sweet ones who get rid of extra pounds can consume watermelon without fear. Moreover, these substances are universal sources of energy for humans, which provide metabolic processes in the body. In addition, glucose nourishes the tissues of the brain and muscles, and fructose strengthens the immune system and stabilizes blood sugar levels.
Watermelon core is a pantry of pectins, calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium, phosphorus and iron, as well as vitamins such as riboflavin, thiamine, niacin, ascorbic and folic acid. Moreover, due to the size of the watermelon, the content of these beneficial trace elements is in very impressive dosages, but there are only 38 calories in 100 grams of watermelon.

Berry for women's health and not only…
Beneficial features watermelon Of all the listed substances, watermelon is the richest in magnesium. As you know, this biogenic element is the most important component of protein synthesis in cells, and its deficiency causes insomnia, chronic fatigue, migraines, osteoporosis and premenstrual syndrome. In order to satisfy the daily need for magnesium, it is enough for a person to eat about 200 grams of watermelon pulp.
Such a vitamin complex of watermelon has a very beneficial effect on the digestive tract, stimulates intestinal motility and metabolic processes in the biliary tract. It is a real help for the liver, as it can improve the composition of bile and prevent the formation of stones in gallbladder.

natural diuretic
Diuretic, that is, the diuretic properties of watermelon are mentioned in almost every source about this berry. Potassium salts, which are responsible for this important “function” of watermelon, are much larger in it than in oranges or bananas. Therefore, if you want to treat cystitis, remove stones from the kidneys or ureters, and at the same time normalize the water-alkaline balance in the body - go for a tasty and natural medicine! Of course, it will not be superfluous to consult your urologist.

Seeds for gentlemen!
Perhaps the only thing that brings us “inconvenience” when eating watermelon is its seeds. They want to pick them out as soon as possible from the pulp alluring with their taste, and after a watermelon meal they remain without our attention. But in vain! They contain valuable watermelon oil, which in terms of medical properties is not inferior to olive or almond oil. It contains a unique combination of zinc and selenium, which improves the functioning of the prostate gland, prevents prostatitis, and has a positive effect on spermatogenesis.

Fully
Jam from watermelon peelsWatermelon after all unique plant! Nature has laid useful material into his every cell, and even into the white layer of his green caftan. Watermelon peels are rich in citrulline and arginine - amino acids, without which the process of nitrogen metabolism of all mammals is impossible, that is, the stable excretion of decay products by the kidneys. In the body healthy person these amino acids are produced in sufficient quantities, but in the elderly this function may be impaired. Therefore, the use of white pulp of watermelon will be useful for those who suffer from swelling and various dysfunctions of the excretory system.

How to eat watermelon correctly?
Like many fruits, watermelon is digested in the intestines, not in the stomach. Therefore, as a traditional afternoon dessert, it cannot serve you in medicinal purposes. It would be more correct to use watermelon separately from other food, otherwise you will not avoid various stomach troubles in the form of bloating and flatulence.
It is extremely important during the watermelon period to control the salinity of the prepared food. As you know, salt retains moisture in the body, so swelling with the simultaneous use of pickles and watermelons is guaranteed.