How to make a steering mechanism by hand. What to make a steering control for a homemade mini tractor from? DIY steering
Self-production of remote control for boat motors
Part I. Basic provisions.When the length of a motor boat is more than 3.5 m, controlling the outboard motor not at the tiller, but through remote control from the front part of the cockpit (wheelhouse) is dictated not only by reasons of convenience, but also by safety requirements. On a large boat, when operating the tiller, forward visibility is significantly impaired, which can cause a dangerous collision with an obstacle. In addition, the presence of a self-draining engine niche greatly complicates control and leads to rapid fatigue of the driver.
The simplest way out is to use remote control systems produced by industry. Unfortunately, at present, the fate of the only domestic MDU-1 produced until recently by the Kaluga Turbine Plant is unclear, and its production volume was completely insufficient. Foreign remote control systems are expensive and often inaccessible to the majority of powerboaters. In such cases, it is quite possible to make a simple remote control system with your own hands.
Full remote control includes devices for turning the engine, for changing the position of the carburetor throttle valve, for activating the reverse clutch and the “Stop” button. In a simpler version, you can do without a drive for reverse, since you have to switch it relatively rarely, and this can be done using a standard handle mounted on the motor itself.
Remote control of motor rotation
The steering control, which allows the motor to turn, is the simplest part of the device under consideration. The cable from the steering column drum, on which it is laid several turns and locked, is led through blocks to the engine. Here its ends are attached to a bar pivotally connected to the motor handle (on a pin or on a bolt).
Steering cables. Correct selection of cable by design and diameter, depending on its operating conditions, reliable seal ends, proper block design is essential for safe operation vessel.
Cables made of galvanized steel wire are used both for the steering drive (steering cable) and for the drive of remote control of the throttle and engine reverse.
The cable design (Fig. 3) is indicated by three numbers, which express, respectively, the number of strands, the number of wires in a strand and the number of organic cores. For example, the entry 6X37 + 1 OS means: six-strand cable, has 37 wires per strand, with one organic core. The design of the cable determines its flexibility, on which the dimensions and weight of the blocks and drums depend and which, along with strength, serves as the basis for its selection in the manufacture of this or that gear. How larger number wires in strands and the smaller their diameter, the more flexible the cable.
For the manufacture of standing rigging gear, rigid cables are used, which, with a minimum diameter and weight, have the greatest strength and do not stretch under load. For steering ropes, flexibility is of paramount importance.
Cables of design 1X19 and 7X7 are very rigid and are used almost exclusively for the manufacture of standing rigging on yachts. The 6X7 + 1 OS cable can also be used for the manufacture of standing rigging, although it is less strong and stretches more than the previously mentioned cables (due to the presence of an organic core). This cable is of little use for a steering rope due to insufficient flexibility, which requires the use of pulleys and blocks too large diameter(see table 1). The organic core helps retain lubrication to prevent corrosion.
7X19 cable is the strongest of the flexible cables. It is used in the manufacture of steering ropes, for which, in addition to strength, low elongation under load is important. The valuable properties of this cable include the ability to seal fires and the presence of a metal core, thanks to which the cable does not wrinkle in the pulley groove and can be wound onto the winch drum in several layers. When sealing a fire, the middle strand is usually cut out, and in this case it is necessary to take into account the weakening of the cable by 15%.
Cable 6Х19 + 1 OS has an organic core. It is more flexible and elastic than 7X19 cable, but it is more stretched and deformed under load, and therefore is not very suitable for winding on a smooth (without grooves) drum and for multi-layer winding.
Cable 6Х37 + 1 OS is very flexible and easily spun. The wires that make up its strands have a small diameter, so a cable of this design is produced starting with a diameter of 5.5 mm. The cable is strongly stretched and is used for small diameter pulleys.
Choosing the appropriate cable diameter is a rather important task. The breaking load of the steering rope intended for turning outboard motors must be at least 300 kg. This condition is satisfied by cables with a diameter of 2.5~3 mm. The most corrosion-resistant cables are galvanized or stainless wire. Cables made of non-galvanized or copper-plated wire quickly become rusty and destroyed, especially at bends.
When a cable passes through a block of wires, in addition to stretching from the load, they receive additional stress from bending, twisting and crushing between the wires. Wires that have burst due to fatigue and wear are always found where the cable touches the block. It should be remembered that in practice the steering rope is subjected to variable loads, i.e. works for fatigue.
The most common mistake made by inexperienced amateurs is using too thick a cable for small-diameter blocks!
In this case, a thicker cable will not only not provide greater strength, but will also wear out at the points where the blocks touch much faster than a thin one.
In table 1 shows the minimum diameters of block pulleys, measured along the groove, depending on the design and diameter of the cable. The drums of steering drives or winches should also have the same diameter.
Table 1.
The radius of the groove (bale) of the pulley should be equal to 1.05 of the radius of the cable. With a narrower or wider pile, the cable will wear out faster. The sheave of the pulley should cover 130-150° of the cable cross-section. The use of aluminum or textolite drums helps reduce cable wear.
Rigging work. In order to make a correct and sufficiently strong fire on a cable, you need to have certain skills. Hobbyists often replace it with grips made from scraps of copper or aluminum tube, applied to the ends of the cable folded together (Fig. 4, a). The inner diameter of the tube should be approximately one and a half times larger diameter cable, length - 10 cable diameters. The tube, put on the cable and pressed closely to the thimble, is riveted until the cable is tightly compressed, then a second contraction is placed at a distance of 40-60 mm, followed by a third contraction. If you are unable to purchase or want to cut the tube, you can get by with ordinary nuts of the appropriate diameter. Thanks to the presence of threads in the hole, the riveted nuts are well held on the cable. It is recommended to always have several suitable nuts with you in your boat in case of possible splicing of the cable during camping conditions.
The connection can be made using one long (80-100 mm) tube (Fig. 4, 6), flattening it alternately in two mutually perpendicular planes. Sealing the end of the cable by pressing it into the hole of a steel ball is also quite strong (Fig. 4, c). The tear strength of such a seal is 60-80% of the breaking load of the cable.
Remote control of throttle and engine reverse/idle clutch
The most widespread among amateurs are various cable throttle control systems. One or two pulleys with handles (for reverse and for gas) are attached to the control post. With the help of bosses (see Fig. 135), into which the ends of the cable are soldered, it is attached to the pulleys. The bosses are secured with wire clips in the pulley slots. Near the motor, the cables are enclosed in Bowden sheaths, which provide flexible connection with the motor and free movement of the cables themselves. To secure the ends of the Bowden shell, stops must be mounted on the motor and on the boat, one of them must be adjustable.
On engines with motorcycle carburetors such as K-36, K-65 (“Moscow-12.5”, “Moscow-25”, “Moscow-30”, “Neptune”) the damper can be controlled (Fig. 5) using one cable by disconnecting magneto lead from the carburetor. The ignition timing is set constant for the operating speed of the engine. Drive cable 3 with a soldered tip 4 is attached instead of the standard cable to the carburetor flap. The cable has only one working stroke - to open the damper. It returns to its place under the action of spring 2.
The disadvantage of the device is that the ignition timing is not adjustable depending on the speed, as a result of which at low speeds the engine operates with strong vibration and incomplete combustion of the fuel mixture. With a significant length of cable in the Bowden sheath, the force of the carburetor spring is not enough to reliably discharge gas.
However, for currently produced Neptune-23E engines equipped with an MB-23 electronic magdino, or old engines on which a homemade ESZ is installed, described on this site, the first drawback is not typical, since the ignition timing is adjusted automatically depending on the speed electronically. Therefore for small boats with Neptune-23E it’s like this simplest scheme gas control is very convenient and, due to its simplicity, preferable.
A stronger return spring is required to move the carburetor choke and magneto panel together. In this case, the cable is attached to a lever brought out at the bottom of the pallet specifically for connecting the remote control.
On Moskva engines, to return the gas control system from the Full Throttle position to the Stop position, a flat spiral spring can be used as one of the options. The spring is attached to the shaft 8 throttle lever at the level of the lower crankcase cover mounting bolts (Fig. 6). Second end of the spring 9, attached to bracket 7, which is installed on the crankcase cover. If the elasticity of one spring is not enough, install two or more springs, placing them on a vertical roller 8 one above the other. For example, two springs, each 7.5 wide mm, 0.6 mm thick and about 450 mm long with the number of turns in the free state (before installation on the axle) - seven, in working condition - 10. During assembly, the force developed by the springs 9, adjustable by pre-twisting the roller 8, after which it is connected to the gas sector and the rod of the ignition timing mechanism. To reduce friction in the gas control system, loosen the nut on the tiller, lubricate the spring and other rubbing surfaces. In the proposed scheme, turning the throttle sector towards increasing engine speed leads to the twisting of the spiral spring 9. This ensures automatic engine speed reduction, which is especially important in the event of a cable break 12 gas adjustments. A similar system can be used on “Vikhr” engines, which have an exit to the outside of the end of the vertical shaft of the throttle valve. It is more convenient to use a cylindrical return spring here 8 (Fig. 129, A), securing one end of it to the lever 7 of the roller 6, the other - on the pallet or rear handle of the motor using a bracket 9. A spring with a diameter of 10 mm is wound from millimeter wire. The length of the spring (approximately 120 mm) is selected so that its force returns the gas lever 7 to its original position - until the carburetor damper is completely closed.
Drive designs with return springs still cannot be considered absolutely reliable, since the spring, especially if improperly heat treated, can eventually break due to metal fatigue. In light of this, a huge advantage Modern engines with electronic ignition with automatic control of the ignition timing is characterized by low throttle control effort. Since the force is several times less than with the joint drive of the throttle and rotation of the magdino, it is possible to get by with a much weaker return spring, which also requires less pretension, and thereby practically eliminate the possibility of its breakage. Along the way, you can get rid of the “saw” familiar to every Progress owner - a gear sector that fixes the throttle handle in a certain position. The force of a weaker spring can be easily handled by the friction forces in the handle mounting unit. While we are talking about springs, it is worth noting that door springs, which are sold in abundance in hardware stores, can be successfully used as return springs. You just need to choose the appropriate diameter and cut a fragment of the required length. Typically, one door spring produces two "gas" return springs.
A double-acting cable is more reliable, working both as a pull and as a stop. Such cables, for example, are equipped with remote control for the Moskva and Kaluga MDU motors. A cable is made from a two-millimeter spring wire, onto which a spiral of soft wire is wound from the outside, so that the cable moves freely back and forth. The usual Bowden shell is unsuitable for this purpose, as it tends to stretch. The reciprocating movement of the cable (core) is carried out using a gear rack to which the cable is attached and with which the gear sector (or gear) attached to the control handle engages. The core can also be attached directly to the end of the sector lever opposite to the handle.
Vladivostok water motorists have successfully tested the RK-50 coaxial cable of the appropriate diameter with a fluoroplastic dielectric as a double-acting cable sheath. Having cut a piece of cable of the required length, the central core is pulled out of it and a 1.8 mm spring wire is inserted in its place. At the ends of the sheath, threads are cut and standard tips from Kaluga "MDU" are screwed on, threaded rods are put on and unfastened onto the ends of the wire. You can also use the RK-75 cable (also with a fluoroplastic dielectric), but it should be taken into account that with the same core diameter O.D. This cable will be larger than that of the RK-50, and instead of standard tips from the MDU, you will have to make homemade ones.
The double-acting cable drive is simple in design, but works reliably only when the cable bends smoothly. With a bending radius of less than 0.5 m, the core jams in the sheath, so the wiring of the cables should be as smooth as possible, and the diameter of the core should not exceed 2 mm (preferably 1.8 mm). The most reliable control systems are those with an “endless” cable. Here the cable, both during direct action and during return, acts as a traction one. In its simplest form, such control can be used for the throttle valve on the Whirlwind motor (Fig. 7, b). A bow holder is inserted into the hole in the tide, which is located on the right side of the engine sump behind the base of the tiller and secured with a nut. 2. A second holder of the same type, but with a shorter end, is attached to the rear handle 10 motor (you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 8.2 mm for it). At the end of a vertical roller 6 throttle valve protruding from the bottom of the pan, put on lever 7, fixed with an M4 screw 12. A bushing is placed on the free end of lever 7 11 with clamping screw 12 for cable 3, so that it rotates in the hole of lever 7. The control handle is of the usual type, both ends of the cable are fixed to the pulley. For reliable operation system, the returning branch of the cable must have a sufficient bending radius.
Another version of this system is more compact and convenient, but requires the manufacture of more parts (Fig. 8). Bowden holder here 11 for both branches of the cable is fixed on a square 2, and the cable goes around the roller 5 at the other end of the bracket. Square 2 attached to the engine sump using a bracket 15 (on the “Whirlwind” of the latest issues - straight to the tide available on the pallet).
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Rice. 9. Remote control of the throttle valve on the Whirlwind motor using an “endless” cable (second option). Assembly drawing. 1 - plank, 2 - square 30x30x2 with cut shelf, 3 - cable, 4 - handle, 5 - video clip, 6 - roller axis, 7 - M8x28 bolt with nut, 8 - cheek (square 35x35x2), 9 - rivet Ж 4, 10 - rivet with countersunk head, 26, 11 - block for attaching the Bowden shell (Bowden holder), 12 - stainless steel bushing, 13 - M5x10 bolt with nut, 14 - pin, 15 - bracket. |
The lever is the same as in the first option.
This design can also be used on Moskva and Veterok motors with appropriate size adjustments.
Remote activation of forward gear on the Veterok motors and reverse on the Moskva motor can be carried out by a system with a return spring (see Fig. 7, a) or with an endless cable (Fig. 10). In the latter case, you need to attach a bracket to the rear handle or engine tray 1 , made from brass tube, with roller 4 at the rear end. Sliding bushing 2 performed with a leash 7 for reverse handle and cable clamp 3.
It can be noted that in most cases you can do without remote reverse control on a pleasure boat. For example, when using a boat for long-distance and short-distance tourism, fishing, the reverse usually has to be switched once per trip. In this case, you can turn on the drive using the standard control knob on the motor, especially since to start manual starter you still have to approach the motor. Even if the motor is equipped with an electric starter, this fact cannot be considered an absolute prerequisite for equipping the boat with remote reverse control. As a rule, a serviceable engine starts well from an electric starter even with the gear engaged, which allows you to switch reverse very rarely and extends the life of the gearbox.
Remote control of the reverse is really important when there are increased requirements for the maneuverability of the boat, for example, when using it as a water taxi, for towing a water skier, and in some types of fishing.
In each specific case, you need to weigh the pros and cons in order to accept right decision. If you refuse to use the reverse control, the boat’s cockpit will not be cluttered with additional cables and control handles, which will simplify the use and care of the vessel.
Features of remote control of two motors
If the boat is equipped with a twin-engine installation, two problems arise:
1. How to organize synchronous rotation of motors while maintaining parallelism of their axes?
2. How to choose the optimal number of controls and arrange them rationally?
As a rule, standard remote control systems that are supplied with industrial motorboats are designed to control one motor and have the design of the connecting elements shown in Figure 11:
When converting a boat for two motors, amateurs usually have a desire not to change anything in the standard design, but to control the turn, connect the motors with a special rod, which in the middle will have to be connected to the standard plate (see Fig. 11). The author also followed this path at one time. As a result, sufficient negative experience was obtained to refuse all kinds of rods and not to recommend this method of control to beginners.
The rod, along with the springs and the plate, took up too much space in the recess, interfered with the tilting of the motors and the placement of gas tanks; if one of the motors was tilted, it was impossible to control the other motor even by disconnecting the faulty motor from the rod. In addition, the springs rusted intensively and quickly lost their rigidity.
As a result, it was developed, albeit imperfect, but quite simple and reliable system. Two aluminum plates with three holes are put on the cable, the cable is threaded through two small holes, through big hole a bolt is missing. And on the handle, another plate with a hole is attached through a standard mounting hole (two holes on the Veterok), and the whole thing is tightened with a bolt. The springs are in the cockpit under the gunwale on both sides, they do not interfere with anything and do not rust. The plates can be moved along the cable with some effort by adjusting the distance. The size of the plate attached to the motor handle is selected so that when both plates are tightened with a bolt, the cable is clamped between them, which prevents the plates from spontaneously sliding along the cable.
This design of the unit for connecting the motors to the cable allows you to control the boat even if one of the motors is folded back and not disconnected from the cable. The force on the steering wheel in this case, of course, is greater than when controlling two running engines, but nevertheless it allows you to calmly control without making sharp turns. This quality can be very valuable in critical circumstances. During a long journey, the tilted motor must be disconnected from the cable.
Remote control of the throttle and reverse of two motors "in full" can be difficult for a number of reasons.In this case, it may be advisable to abandon the reverse control (see above) and thereby significantly simplify the remote control system. As an example, we can cite the option of modifying the control panel of the Kaluga MDU to control the “gas” of the second engine. The standard MDU handle was removed and between it and the remote control body a handle from the old Progress remote control was placed, from which the latch was removed. To ensure the necessary fit on the axle, an annular PCB bushing was pressed into the large hole in the handle. To create friction forces that counteract the return spring, washers made of rubberized fabric were placed on both sides of the Progress handle. Then the standard MDU handle was put on the axle, pressed forcefully against the “Progressovskaya” handle and secured with a clamping screw. This design uses a long flexible cable in a Bowden sheath from a Japanese car. The cable sheath is fixed directly to the control panel, as a result the cable does not stain the clothes of passengers.
Amateur boaters have also developed much more complex and advanced single-handle throttle and reverse control systems, but their production can cost no less than the cost of purchasing modern system Remote control of foreign production. Due to the fact that currently, if you have money, purchasing foreign remote control systems (new or used) does not pose a problem, the relevance self-made of such systems has decreased significantly, and their consideration is beyond the scope of this article.
Part II. Offer from water motors.
After publishing an article about simple homemade systems remote control, boat motorists sent their diagrams, sketches and drawings of simple remote control units, which are offered to the attention of readers.Since long cables suitable for use in throttle remote control systems are still in short supply, Nikolai Kuznetsov Enable javascript to see email from Tyumen developed and tested in practice a remote control system using rigid traction. A rod made of a steel rod runs along the entire cockpit of the boat, and only to directly transfer force to the motor is a short, non-deficient flexible cable that works only for traction. To reset the gas, a traditional return spring is used. The diagram of this remote control is shown in Fig. 1.
Part III. The simplest foreign remote control system.
After publishing an article about simple homemade remote control systems, Alexander Mavrin kindly offered me a simple foreign system for remote control of the throttle and reverse of outboard boat motors for review. Frankly, when approaching Alexander’s office, I expected to see a one-handle control system similar to that shown in Fig. 2. Such a system with minimal changes was produced by many foreign companies various countries. The domestic MDU-1 system of the Kaluga Turbine Plant was designed in exactly the same way, only, unlike foreign systems, less corrosion-resistant materials were used. Seeing a box with the familiar inscription “Morse” on the table, I was finally confirmed in these expectations.
However, upon opening the package, I experienced... no, not shock, since it’s quite difficult to shock me, but considerable surprise. What appeared before my eyes was a design that could truly be called the simplest. It turns out that American manufacturers of water recreational products pay great attention to the low-end sector! Two halves of the control panel body, stamped from impact-resistant polystyrene, two stamped aluminum control levers, brake plastic inserts with springs, a separating insert, a set of connecting parts and that’s it! Of course, all fasteners and springs are made of stainless steel. The remote control is designed to work with standard double-acting cables.
Control panels can easily be doubled when used with a dual-motor installation. The company's instructions recommend installing the throttle handles of both engines in one box, and both reverse handles in the other. In this case, plastic “knobs” are installed on opposite sides of the handles, which allows you to conveniently control two motors (see Fig. 3.)
It should be noted that the described control panel is much simpler than the domestic two-handle remote control "Moscow". Let me remind you that for all its positive qualities, the “Moscow” remote control was quite complex and, accordingly, required considerable production costs. Suffice it to say that the body of the domestic remote control was quite accurately cast from silumin, since the teeth on which the gears rolled were cast on the internal surfaces, and all this in order to ensure the movement of the cable tip rod without distortion. In the "Morse" remote control, the cable is attached with a ring groove in the slot of the embedded plate, which allows for quite significant distortion during operation. That is why the tip of the cable clings directly to the hole in the control handle without any gears, hence the extreme simplicity and reliability of the design.
Without any doubt, the production of such a remote control is possible at almost any domestic machine-building enterprise capable of stamping aluminum spoons and plastic dishes. Manufacturing of parts does not require high-precision machine equipment. All that is required is the desire to produce the required mass products. The described American remote control costs $50 in Vladivostok. It seems like not much, but for the poor Russian consumer this price still seems excessive. The retail price of a similar domestic product looks quite realistic: 300~500 rubles.
Modern double-acting cables are also not a problem. Such cables are already produced in the CIS countries, for example at this Ukrainian enterprise.
The remote control of the described design may well be recommended for self-production. Of course, polystyrene casting is unlikely to be available to amateurs, so the product should not be copied exactly. It is easier, in my opinion, to make plastic halves of the box glued from PCB or fiberglass. For the same reason, the dimensions of the parts are not given.
(page 9, message 220) talks about my rowing boat“Iris” with homemade remote throttle control, neutral-stroke-neutral switching, as well as rotation of the Yamaha-3 motor. The successful operation of the boat prompted the idea: - wouldn’t it be possible to assemble a similar remote control by turning the PLM for motorboats with motors up to 20...30 horsepower?
The main ideas are as follows:
– get away from purchased systems with tension cables or “push-pull” cables, steering gears, “pokers,” metal-plastic steering wheels (steering wheels), with their increased weight, progressive gaps/wear, and a substantial price for these days;
– use homemade steering rods with closed (from dust and moisture) ball joints “from the auto industry”, standard ball bearings closed type, materials that can be bought on the construction market or in stores like OBI or Leroy Merlin;
– obtain a progressive steering characteristic – with a large gear ratio in the near-zero zone and with a smaller i, i.e. with acceleration, when turning the engine closer to “right/left on board”.
The remote control circuit for the Iris was like this:
For “more serious” motorboats I’m thinking of making PLM remote steering as follows:
So, the steering wheel in the style of an F-1 car rotates on ball bearings together with an eccentric pulley that moves the nose tie rod to the right/left through cables, i.e. across the hull of the boat. At the second end of this rod there is a ball joint, secured with a pin and a nut on the front rocker arm. The rod tilts a double-lever rocker mounted longitudinally in the boat hull, also in ball bearings. The rocker turns the motor with its second (stern) lever through the stern steering rod and leash. Stern steering rod practically repeats the design of that used in steering linkages of cars.
For the required rotation of the motor ±35º from the DP, it is enough to assign following sizes remote control elements:
– steering wheel rotation angle ±90º;
– the diameter of the steering wheel along the axis of the handles is 280 mm;
– the small radius of the eccentric pulley in the ±30º sector from the DP is 46 mm, at the extreme points – 72 mm;
– rack stroke (bow tie rod) 185 mm;
– radius (length) of the outboard motor drive 200 mm;
– stroke of the stern steering rod (chord of the path of the front end) 210 mm.
Taking into account the fact that the cables (see the upper elements of the diagram) are tensioned and ensure backlash-free rolling of the rack and pulley over each other, as well as the transmission of minimal acceptable forces, we can say that we have obtained a mechanism according to the “rack-and-pinion” scheme with progressive characteristic.
The design of the steering wheel is inlaid, glued from plywood, with hollows inside, lightweight, 260 grams:
The design of the eccentric pulley is similar, it is glued epoxy resin from five layers of plywood:
A meter-long square pipe of 15x15 mm with a wall thickness of 1.5 mm made of AD-31 alloy was taken as a lath:
The length of the free end of the rack will be determined locally during layout work in a particular boat. An insert with an M10x1 thread will then be attached to it, the free end of the rail, for screwing in the ball joint shank. Like the other ball joints, this one is half of the anti-roll bar link from passenger car. Almost anyone. And here is the most free place (!) in my scheme: an acquaintance from a car service center brought out a small armful of worn out and discarded struts... But! As a rule, of the two hinges of one stand, at least one has no wear, it is stiff when moving the finger... Or even both - filled it with grease under the rubber boot, sawed it in half, cut the thread, and off you go! The stern tie rod itself will look something like this:
The rod body is a circle Ø12...14 mm made of the same AD-31 alloy.
The bearing assembly of the steering wheel is made on closed type ball bearings with dimensions Ø52x Ø40x7 mm, “millionth” series. Parts, hub and body, made of caprolon, circle Ø72 mm:
A scattering of small bearings will be used in the bearing units of the rocker, and the outer race from the extraneous bearing will be used as a spacer between the “millionaires” in the hub, which weighs less than three hundred grams when assembled:
Here the pulley is put on a hub inserted on bearings into the housing:
To secure the cables from slipping along the pulley, threaded clamps will be made.
In fact, there is only one cable used here, with the ends pressed into the holes of the M5 pins, which are screwed into a cracker (caprolon), for which tension is applied with one M5 screw of this balanced cable system - the left end of the rack in the photo has a caprolon roller. This is how the system is leveled.
After pressing the cable into the lugs, the latter were alternately secured in a vice and tested for tearing out; my strength was not enough to pull them off one by one, let alone when working in pairs...
The rotation of the motor will be limited by stops, but not on the motor itself, but by stops on the steering wheel. To be on the safe side...
Our colleague Shurik gave me the idea to use a pipe, but not a round one, but a square one, as an element transmitting rotation from the bow rocker arm to the stern one. Somewhere a square with a side of 30...35 mm with a wall of 1.5...2.5 mm from the same AD-31 will be enough. And the levers will use a T-profile 40x20x2.0...3.0 mm. Everything is in Merlin. And in this case, fastening the elements of the rocking chair into a single assembly can be done using screws/nuts, without argon-arc welding. Well, turning out the parts of the bearing units of the rocking chair is a matter of technology and time. The nodes themselves will be glued into the body in place.
The fastening and angular fixation of the eccentric pulley on the hub will be carried out integrally with the steering wheel with bolts through the spacer bushing(s). But, for the right thing, beautiful location fastening on the steering wheel and ensuring that this formula steering wheel is horizontal in the neutral position, and the racks are in the middle of the stroke and the motor is in the “straight” position, all this will be marked on... the boat that I am going to build to replace the old Imp.
Guess it twice: where did the lines and parameters of Imp-2 come from?
This is who we are strange people, designers: plywood is still being purchased, but the remote control is already being made.
So, grab some popcorn and onto the second episode. Which, quite possibly, will happen earlier with Shurik with my remote control, but at his Physical Education.
PS: if anyone needs details, I’ll post the sketches.
PPS: I hesitated, and connected the hub, eccentric pulley and steering wheel into a single unit - the steering column, estimating the angle of displacement of the horizontal axes of the steering wheel and eccentric purely by drawing:
The advantages of the walk-behind tractor, such as low cost and simplicity of design, have reverse side medals. You have to follow him like a horse. With large volumes of work this is tedious.
Therefore, many owners of this device purchase or make their own adapter for a walk-behind tractor with steering control. This simple device turns the two-wheeled assistant into a real mini tractor.
At first glance, this is a complex engineering project that cannot be implemented at home. In fact, the technology is very simple both to operate and to manufacture.
An adapter for a walk-behind tractor is an addition to the unit that has its own wheel axle. When paired with a towing device, you get a complete four-wheeled vehicle. The question often arises: I made a homemade adapter, how to register with the traffic police? This is impossible.
Important! Such self-propelled vehicles are prohibited from traveling on public roads. If you need to overcome long distance to the work site - use a carriage trailer to transport the walk-behind tractor.
The whole problem is that the walk-behind tractor does not have basic safety systems. Therefore, it is not a vehicle, per se. In addition, the open design (all mechanisms, including rotating ones, are a source of danger) in principle will not pass certification as a means of transportation. The same applies to factory adapters.
Conceptually there are two types of design:
The design is much simpler to manufacture, but it requires more effort to turn. And the geometry is somewhat worse. The turning angle and radius do not stand up to criticism.
Depending on the location relative to the power plant with the drive wheels, there is a front or rear adapter.
Advice! From the point of view of traction implementation, the preferable option is in which the driver sits as close as possible to the drive axle. Then its weight additionally presses the wheels to the ground, eliminating wheel slip.
Design elements:
Frame.
Ladder or spine. There are options for combining a walk-behind tractor frame and an adapter. In this case, the structure is calculated as a single element, with a newly manufactured pedestal for the engine and transmission.
Suspension.
As a rule, without elastic elements. Large selection structures – pavement, axial, portal, rotary.
Portal for attachments.
Manufactured with the adapter positioned in the rear. When positioned at the front, a walk-behind tractor portal is used. An option for mounting the blade is possible.
Hitch device.
The most critical element of the design. Must provide reliable connection with walk-behind tractor and stability vehicle. If there is steering, the hitch is rigid; if the rotation is carried out by changing the angle of articulation, it is mounted on a horizontal hinge. Can be performed with two degrees of freedom: rotation and twisting.
Workplace driver.
It is built taking into account driving safety, and can be equipped with duplicate controls for the walk-behind tractor.
Steering (in case of rigid coupling).
You can take a ready-made one, for example from a VAZ classic. You can make it yourself. Taking into account the peculiarities of movement, a homemade adapter with a steering wheel does not necessarily have to meet any control safety requirements.
How to make an adapter with your own hands without steering
Design with a hinge joint that acts as a steering control. The driver is placed on the adapter, turns are carried out by changing the hitch angle.
For production you will need:
- Profiled pipe measuring 30-50mm or slightly larger, depending on the power of your walk-behind tractor;
- Channel of similar size;
- A pipe with thick walls, or better yet, a steel circle with a diameter of 30-40 mm, in which holes for the coupling device will be drilled on a lathe;
- Steel rods different sizes, for the coupling device - made of hardened steel;
- A pair of wheels with bearing axles or hubs;
- Bolts, nuts in assortment;
- A ready-made seat, for example from a city bus. Or the material for its manufacture - dermantin, boards;
- Welding machine (it is better to use electric welding);
- Grinder, powerful drill or drilling machine;
- Lathe, or the ability to order turning work;
- Primer, paint.
The dimensions of the adapter for the walk-behind tractor are selected based on the needs of the device. Special conditions no symmetry, length homemade device may exceed the size of a walk-behind tractor.
Before starting work, you should draw a drawing of the adapter.
The frame can be higher or lower than the axis of the walk-behind tractor, it’s not a big deal. The main thing is to ensure that the structure is horizontal. Advice. If possible, place the landing site as low as possible for stability.
The wheels do not have to be placed on the axle, best option– portal suspension, it will provide sufficient ground clearance. Elastic elements are not installed, so it is better to choose tires with a high profile for shock absorption. Make sure that the wheels are aligned and that they are installed parallel.
How to weld an adapter without using factory equipment? If you do not have jigs to properly fix the frame elements relative to each other, use any flat surface. For example - chipboard sheet.
Structural elements are laid out on it, and welding is carried out in one plane. The frame is then turned 180° and the other side is welded. Then you can finish the side seams.
Important! Grinding of welded joints is carried out after all seams are ready and checked.
The most important part is hitch. This is a hinge that works in two planes. The vertical axis is for turning, the horizontal axis is to prevent diagonal hanging on rough terrain.
Complex design on bearings is not necessary, but it is more difficult to make than making a front adapter with a rigid coupling. The bushings should have minimal play and should be lubricated regularly.
The seat is placed in such a way that at any angle of rotation of the steering wheel, your back does not come off the backrest. Remote controls are not required; they are only equipped with an adapter with a steering wheel for a walk-behind tractor, where the power plant is located behind the driver. Can be placed on the side of the seat, control levers various devices for cultivating the land.
On the rear cross member of the frame there is a bracket for attachments. Since you are sitting with your back to them, control will be difficult. This problem can be solved by upgrading your hiller or plow. It is necessary to add several rods and make a device to change the height of the working tool.
Still want to make an adapter for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands? To help you detailed video with manufacturing examples.
A motor boat can be used for various purposes. For some, it is a recreational vehicle. Others use a boat to fish, hunt, etc. Whatever purpose the owner pursues when operating his boat, reliable control is ensured by the steering system. It must be reliable.
Boat steering is one of the most important systems of a watercraft. The controllability, pliability of the entire structure, as well as the safety of passengers depend on its quality. The features of such systems will be presented below.
General characteristics
Steering for Progress boats, “Kazanka” and other popular models can be made in two variations. The first category includes the manual (tiller) system. It is also possible to install a remote control of the boat.
Manual control is most often installed on rescue vehicles and as a standard system. At the same time, the boat can perform complex maneuvering and frequent turns. This reliable design, which today is used on fishing and special boats.
The remote control is suitable for boats longer than 3.5 m. This gives the captain the opportunity to have a clear view of the area while at the steering wheel. If the person operating the boat is at the tiller, they will have a smaller view of the surrounding water area. This improves security. Most often, motor boat owners today choose remote systems. They are reliable and comfortable to use.
Manual control
Less common, but still encountered, is manual or tiller control of boats. This is the most traditional option. It is characterized by simplicity of design. Manual type The organization of the system has a steering control for the Kazanka boat. This is a classic option.
Such a device includes a rudder blade, a steering wheel, rollers, a steering cable, a tiller, and a stock. All of them provide the required maneuvers on the pond. Using the interaction of the presented elements, the rudder blade is shifted to the desired angle to make a turn.
Modern designs may also include a steering gear, a bowden, and a bracket for attaching it. Traditional (passive) types of design include transom-mounted, semi-balanced and suspended balanced types of devices. Suspended sterndrives and water cannons are usually included in the active group.
Most often it belongs to the class of remote ones. These include several types of designs. To do right choice, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the watercraft, as well as the features of fastening on it similar system. The physical capabilities of the boat owner also play an important role.
You should also consider whether the steering gear will need to be removed or whether it will be permanent. If there is no need to disassemble the system, it is better to give preference to monolithic types of construction. Otherwise, you should purchase a removable type device.
Experts say steering should be light but reliable. In this case, you can avoid high fuel consumption by the engine. The more functional and durable the system, the more expensive it is. You cannot skimp on your own safety.
Mechanical remote control
Choosing boat steering kit, it is necessary to consider options for remote systems. They can be mechanical, hydraulic and electro-hydraulic.
The first category of devices includes a system that consists of a certain set of elements. This includes a mechanical gearbox, cable, rods (levers), steering wheel (wheel). Turning to the right or left activates the gearbox mechanism. A cable is wound around its gear. It is laid along the side of the vessel.
Using cables of smaller diameter, the angle of inclination, speed and gear shifting are adjusted. The load on them will be minimal. Systems available for sale are designed for boats with different performance characteristics.
Hydraulic systems
Whichever its owner chooses, it can be hydraulic. It's more perfect type devices. Such a system is mounted together with an engine with a power of up to 150 hp. With. It includes several main components.
The steering pump performs the functions oil pump. A pump wheel is installed on its shaft and will direct oil under pressure to certain hydraulic cylinders of the engine.
The hydraulic cylinder is divided by a piston system into two separate cavities. If force is applied to the steering wheel, one of the two parts will experience high blood pressure. In this case, the piston will move in the opposite direction. The force will be redistributed to the rotary column or fixed engine structure.
Hoses connect the pump and the hydraulic cylinder. Their length corresponds to the dimensions of the watercraft. Since the basis of such a system is oil, it is possible to transmit the signal from the steering wheel accurately.
Electrical systems
May be electric. It represents a more advanced system. The main advantage of the electro-hydraulic design is the partial or complete absence of a cable system.
With the help electric cable The steering wheel and the engine are connected. It transmits signals within the circuit. They go to the electric motors that are installed on the engine. They drive the cylinder pistons.
In the presented system, it is possible to avoid installing a cable on the gas and reverse switches. If the watercraft is driven by two motors, their synchronous operation is possible only if there is electronic control. This is the most advanced system used today.
Advantages and Disadvantages
Presented options boat steering have their advantages and disadvantages. Thus, the mechanical type of design is represented by a huge variety of models. The cost of such systems is relatively low (about 10 thousand rubles). Their installation is simple. Disadvantages include the short service life and sensitivity of the cables to operating conditions. There is also low maneuverability when controlling powerful motors.
Having decided on these elements of the system, you need to choose the right cable. It must also match the motor power and gearbox type. Taking into account all the design features, it will be possible to correctly select the appropriate diameter of the steering wheel.
The installation process is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. When using such equipment, carefully studying the instructions is not only desirable, but also necessary.
If you have a motor with a power of up to 60 hp. With. you will need a T67 type gearbox. For engines type 60-110 l. With. A T71 type device is more suitable. It is easy to install and operate. This gearbox does not require additional configuration. If the engine has a power of up to 160 hp. pp., a T85 type device is purchased. Each gearbox, cable, and steering wheel diameter must correspond to all design features.
DIY steering
It is quite possible to create. Many owners of such watercraft produce self-assembly due to the unsatisfactory quality of purchased systems, as well as their high cost. To create the structure you will need plywood about 12 mm thick.
All elements of the mechanism are cut out separately. They are assembled using furniture corners. The ends and joints must be thoroughly lubricated epoxy glue. The space for the gearbox should be on the front panel. All switches, instruments, and a cable to stop the engine in an emergency are also displayed here.
The entire structure is sanded and covered with fiberglass. A layer of primer is applied on top. It is painted with water-repellent paint. The manufactured steering control is mounted to the bottom of the boat using 5 strong screws.
Having considered the features boat steering, you can choose the right type of design in accordance with the characteristics of your boat.