Power saw Makita UC4030A with a 5-meter cord (Fig. 1). I bought it to facilitate work in the country, as I was tired of sawing dry trees. She showed herself perfectly in work, with the exception of the oil supply system, but more on that later.

Rice. one

Rice. 2-5. We turn off the box of the tire mounting screw, slightly loosen the tire with it, then loosen the chain with the tensioner screw, then unscrew the sprocket cover with the tire mounting screw and remove the cover, and then the tire with the chain.

Rice. 2

Rice. 3

Rice.4

Rice. 5

Rice.6

Rice. 6,9,10. We unscrew the two screws securing the engine, on the other side it is necessary to unscrew two more screws, having previously removed the oil tank cover for convenience, After that we disconnect the engine from the gearbox.

Rice. 9

Rice.10

Rice. 11, 13 Remove the lock washer from the sprocket shaft, then the washer and remove the sprocket.

Rice.11

Rice.13

Rice. 14, 15. We unscrew the 6 screws securing the handle and the toothed stop and remove them.

Rice.14

Rice.15

Rice. 16. Turn the gearbox over and remove the cover.

Rice.16

Rice. 17, 19, 20. We pull off the tube from the oil pump, take out the oil tank, press the chain brake lever in the direction of braking until it clicks, then remove it.

Rice.17

Rice.19

Rice. twenty

Rice. 21-26. We turn the gearbox over and remove the aluminum cover along with the driven shaft. And there we see that there is little lubrication in the gearbox, and a lot of sawdust, but it should be the other way around. It’s clear with sawdust, the aluminum cover is adjacent to the plastic case only at three points, so there are three slots between the cover and the case through which sawdust flies in and grease flies out. On the driven gear, lubrication is only on the periphery, and the drive gear is generally dry.

Rice. 21

Rice. 22

Rice. 23

Rice. 24

Rice. 25

Rice. 26

Rice. 27, 28. We clean all parts of the gearbox.

Rice. 27

Rice. 28

Rice. 29, 30, 31. We take out the pump plunger and the pump itself.

Rice. 29

Rice.30

Rice. 32. Taking the pump by both sides with our hands, we try to rotate both parts in different directions, while pulling one out of the other. The pump should disconnect.

Rice.32

Rice. 33. Now it's time for the pump. Inspect all parts carefully. The ball and spring should be free to remove, the rubber ring should be where it is in the figure. My ball bit a ring in the square (left side) of the pump due to a small step in the body. The pump is the most capricious part of the saw. In some it pours oil, in others it does not pump at all. This topic was discussed on the forum site www.makita.com.ru. If oil is pouring, then this is the ball to blame. You need to put in more. Or pour thicker oil. If it doesn't pump, then it grabs air. The pump does not like air very much due to the fact that there is only one check valve. If there is air in the tube, then the plunger will drive it back and forth. There is an exit. It is necessary either to create excess pressure in the oil tank (by mouth, pump), so that the oil itself pushes the air, or to create a vacuum in the outlet channel after the pump using a syringe. The last method works well.

Rice.33

Rice. 34,35,36. It is necessary to make sure that the brake mechanism is in the braking position, if not, then put on the lever and switch to forward position to the click. In this position, the tension of the spring is minimal and it can be pry off with a screwdriver, but preferably with gloves. We take out the spring and thrust.

Rice.34

Rice.35

Rice.36

Rice. 37, 38. Unscrew the screw and remove the brake band.

Rice.37

Rice.38

Rice. 39. Remove the pipe from the tank.

Rice.39

Rice. 40-44. To eliminate the gap between the cover and the body, I found a washer with a bent edge along the diameter of the body, cut out technological holes, grooves, screwed the washer to the cover. The places where the stops protrude through the washer are covered with sealant.

Rice. 40

Rice. four1

Rice. 42

Rice. 43

Rice. four4

Rice. 45. Apply some grease to the drive gear. I squeezed out half the tube. When the sealant hardens, I will smear it on the gear and, if necessary, I will add more. One horseradish, centrifugal force will scatter in the corners.

Rice. 45

Rice. 46, 47. Remove the drive gear from the motor shaft. We take out the brushes.

Rice. four6

Rice. four7

Rice. 48. We unscrew 6 screws on one side, and one on the other.

Rice. 48

Rice. 49-51. We remove the cover. The motor rotor is removed with little effort.

Rice. four9

Rice.50

Rice.51

We assemble in the reverse order.

Good luck with the repair!!

All the best, writeto © 2014

The electric saw is preferred for one weighty reason - it is very light, and therefore easy to use. Of course, you won’t go far into the forest with her, - network cable won't let. But in use near the house (for sawing logs, preparing firewood, pruning trees, during construction and repair) the best tool can not found.

During operation, especially with frequent use, it starts to act up: it makes strange sounds, smells, does not slow down on time or does not turn on at all. There's nothing you can do - any technical device not forever. And every working day shortens his life. But there are breakdowns that only a professional service can handle (for example, the case is damaged). And there are cases when you can reanimate an electric saw with your own hands, with effort, knowledge and skill.

We have made a selection good advice how to repair the saw yourself without contacting a specialist.

Any damage does not occur on empty place. Its roots often lie in poor assembly and quality, or in improper operation. If buy quality tool from a reliable manufacturer, then it is not so easy to “ditch” it. But still, most often malfunctions occur due to:

Power surges in the network. If fuses are built into the tool - protection against voltage surges, then it will withstand deviations from 220 V by 10% in one direction and the other. Not more. If there is no protection, the motor burns out.

Untimely lubrication. In the vast majority of power saws, lubrication is automatic. Make sure you don't run out of oil. Remember that running dry is death for the motor. If oil does not automatically flow to the “sprocket”, then lubricate it yourself every 3-5 hours of operation.

Power overload. If it happened, it's also your fault, not the manufacturer's. If it is indicated that it is possible to cut logs up to 5 cm in diameter, then cutting a ten-centimeter trunk is overkill.

Structural flaws. This is a manufacturer's oversight. The most common minus is the rigid coupling of the gearbox with the anchor. When transferring a heavy load (dull tape or solid wood) it wedges and heats up. Gears wear out quickly. The way out of the situation is to sharpen in time and avoid overloads.

What you need to know before repair

The "golden" rule of self-repair is to use only original parts and spare parts. If you try to install inappropriate elements of a different brand and configuration, then this is a 100% guarantee of future breakdown and failure of the electric saw.
Before you repair the tool, create yourself the necessary base. You will need:

1. Original factory parts from the same manufacturer.
2. Pliers, wrenches
3. Electrical tester, voltmeter.
4. Soldering iron.
5. Round and oval files, mandrel and sharpening gauge.
6. Machine for sharpening the chain (ideally, you can sharpen it manually).

What to do if the device does not give any signs of life at all? If the saw does not turn on, it is possible:
- low voltage in the network. Measure with a voltmeter. If below 180, connect the equipment through a voltage stabilizer. Sometimes with planted networks it is recommended to buy good generator with an AVR, and power all power tools from it.
- damaged cable nutrition. You need to check the cord and all connections. Replace or solder the gap and insulate.
- the start button does not work. Disassemble. Repair or replace. Sometimes, with a faulty button, power is applied directly, but this option is not suitable for an electric saw - safety is critically reduced.
the chain brake has been activated. Check it out. It turns on at a certain position of the shield of the brake element. The shield should be moved a little.
- The thermal protection relay has tripped. Perhaps if you turn on an overheated device. It needs to cool down, or maybe the relay itself needs to be repaired.
- worn out carbon brushes. Frequent malfunction. Happens even in almost new instrument. As a rule, there is a loss of power first. Replace the graphite contacts with new ones.
- damage to the motor windings. Windings from overheating are destroyed. Need to rewind. It's pretty difficult process. It is necessary to disassemble the motor, remove the burnt winding and clean the grooves from the insulation. And then do everything yourself in reverse order. And to wind the coil, use a winding machine. In general, if you are a master electrician, then go for it. If not, take it to the service.

Often, when the saw is operating, the user hears an unpleasant, ear-cutting sound, and smells of burning. This is what we talked about at the very beginning of the article - the lack of oil in the mechanism. Check with a dipstick: if the crankcase is full, then the conductive channels are dirty. Troubleshooting is simple - fill in oil or clean the furrows.
Quite often, the tool starts to “fail” when stopped. It does not stop immediately, but after a while. The longer the saw is in use, the longer this time period becomes. To fix the problem, you need to replace the brake band. She just wore out and stretched out.
Sometimes during sawing, the device suddenly starts to vibrate strongly and lose power. You already know the reason - the brushes are worn out. If not replaced, the saw will soon stop turning on.
The chain does not rotate. Here possible faults several:
- the teeth of the plastic gear "licked off". It is part of the gearbox and is the first to take the blow in case of critical overloads. And it's great! It is better to replace the gear than to throw away the burnt out motor or, even worse, get injured. When replacing a worn one with a new one, lubricate the gear well with oil.
- wear of other parts (drive sprocket, cam, spring, clutch cup, bearing). Having determined the worn or crushed part, replace it with an original spare part.
- Incorrectly adjusted chain tension. The situation occurs both with key and keyless tension. The owner's manual always describes how to correctly tension the chain and check its tension.

It's hard to believe, but almost half of the breakdowns occur due to a blunt chain. It pulls with it an increase in the load on the motor, its overheating and premature wear. With a dull saw blade, the gears of the gearbox, the drive sprocket, bearings, etc. break.
The first sign of dullness is dark and small sawdust. The teeth cannot remove the desired layer, so the chips will be crushed. If you examine such a saw, you can see defects on the edge and even torn off pieces.
Masters advise sharpening the saw as often as possible. If you tighten this process, you will need to give the device to the workshop. Sharpening a file at home is possible on a special machine or manually.
If you sharpen regularly, you can handle it yourself, following the rules:

• Sharpening must not be done directly on the ground, as dirt can clog the grooves with oil.
• Sharpening devices are used: files (circle and oval), mandrel and gauge.
• The sharpening angle must be greater than 30 degrees.
• The file should protrude slightly over the tooth.
• Sharpen the teeth one by one, scrolling the tape.
• Having sharpened the teeth, with the help of a caliber, you should straighten the cuts (protrusions that are responsible for deepening during the sawing process).
• If the cuts protrude slightly beyond the line of teeth, then they can simply be filed.

As you can see, troubleshooting is easy, but there is also difficult. Remember that when correct operation and care, the need for repairs will occur much less frequently.

The most popular electric saws

Like any tool, Makita power saws require maintenance. From time to time it is necessary to replace those parts that are badly worn out. This applies to any product in the line, whether it is Makita UC3520A with an engine power of 1800 W or UC4530A with 2000 W. If you do not pay attention to some points when inspecting and preparing the saw for work, the device may even break.

Preparation is carried out in several stages:

1. Since the device is quite massive, for example, UC4530A weighs 4.3 kg, we put it on the table and unscrew the fixing nut with a special key (supplied in the kit). Then remove the sprocket boot.
2. The bolt, with which the chain is adjusted, is scrolled in the direction opposite to the movement of the arrow on the clock. The pin must enter the leftmost position.
3. We pass the chain between the teeth of the gear, wrap it around the sprocket. On the top section of the tire, the teeth should be in the direction of the arrow.
4. We put the tire back. The pin must fit exactly into the tire hole.
5. We fix the sprocket cover back, manually slightly tighten the fixing nut.
6. Check that the saw chain is well tensioned. To do this, lift the end of the bar, then turn the chain screw to adjust, now in a clockwise direction. Be careful, the chain should be pressed tightly against the bottom of the bar.
7. It remains to properly lubricate the bar and saw chain. To do this, you need to use a specially chain oil with an adhesive additive, biodegradable. The additive does not allow the liquid to be thrown out. Oil must be filled to the lower level of the filler neck. Make sure that dirt does not get into the oil tank. To do this, clean the filler neck before filling.
8. Screw the tank cap back into place. Turn on the saw and let it run without load for 2 minutes so that the chain mechanism is gradually lubricated with oil.

After completing all the stages of preparing the makita uc4030a brand saw for work, gently wipe it off any remaining oil. Do not under any circumstances use mineral oils otherwise, you will have to breathe harmful fumes during operation.

Review: Makita UC3503A Electric Chain Saw – A Useful, Reliable, Ergonomic Device

Advantages:

Comfort, ergonomics, elegance and reliability

Flaws:

chain and blade lubrication required

When on suburban area there is a solid garden, when you have to harvest firewood for a stove bench for the autumn-spring periods, when you have to carry out construction work in the country, it is desirable to have good saw. Of course, you can get by with a conventional two-handed saw, but this is currently not productive. Therefore, on family council it was decided to buy a manual electric household chain saw.

Power saw Makita

have been viewed on the internet various models such a device of the most famous brands. The choice fell on the company "Makita", although it cost more than the same saw of other companies (10,000 rubles). When I picked up this saw for the first time in the store, I realized that the choice was made correctly.

Graceful shape, good centering, comfortable and reliable grips for hands that force the body to be located in the safest position in relation to the cut, protective devices, which increase the safety of work, emphasized the high qualities of the saw. The very shape of the saw clearly demonstrated the aggressive dynamics of the saw. She didn't want to let go.
I have been using the saw for over five years. There are no complaints or comments about the work of the saw, although at first it seemed too fragile. Practice has confirmed its reliability. Maintenance the device is very simple. Do not forget to add oil to lubricate the chain and periodically sharpen the chain. I have two chains. So when I feel some heaviness in the sawing, I simply replace the dull cutting chain and turn the saw blade 180 degrees. Replacing the chain is very easy using the wrench supplied with the saw. If the chain starts to heat up, it is necessary to clear the space where the mechanical drive gear is located, which rotates the cutting chain, from sawdust. In the process of sawing, it is necessary to avoid jamming (pinching) of the chain in the cut.

Power saws Makita (Makita)

Makita UC3530A in our store: https://www.klondayk.com.ua/ru/products/details/elektropila_makita_uc3530a/index.html

The universal power saw Makita UC 3530 A is useful on a personal, garden or construction site. This model is characterized by high performance, reliability and durability, and in addition to everything it is very comfortable to use. The power saw is equipped with a quick chain tightening and keyless bar removal device, which not only increases productivity, but also eliminates the need to constantly carry additional keys.

Control electric saw Makita UC 3530 A is made by means of convenient and clear buttons and levers. Thanks to design features This model is easy to maintain. The use of sealed ball bearings and a special gearbox lubrication system ensure long-term operation of the electric saw without specialized maintenance.

In order to increase the safety of the saw, the developers have provided in this model an inertial chain brake, which protects the user from accidental injury as a result of a “kickback”. This system ensures that the chain stops in a fraction of a second - even before a “kicked” tool can “catch up” with the user and cause injury. To protect the network from overloads and to prevent premature wear of the mechanism in saw Makita UC3530A has a built-in electronic system starting current limitation.

The Makita UC 3530 A electric saw is equipped with powerful engine with a longitudinal arrangement, providing high speed sawing 13.3m/s. Due to the longitudinal arrangement of the motor, the tool is compact and perfectly balanced. Comfortable rubberized handles provide maximum control over the saw during operation. The saw is equipped with an automatic chain lubrication system (the capacity of the built-in oil tank is 0.14 l.), which prolongs the life of the saw set and the tool as a whole. Visual level control lubricant through a transparent viewing window.

Chainsaws today find application in the widest areas. This relatively simple tool is necessary in everyday life for solving a wide variety of tasks. You can order the Makita UC3530A electric saw in the Klondike online store.

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Specifications

Reviews about chain saw Makita UC4030A

Advantages

• No tools are required to remove the chain bar. Automatic chain lubrication. Did an excellent job with felling birch 60 cm in diameter. Uses almost any oil despite the fact that the instructions say to use only oil from the manufacturer. In general, an excellent saw for working at their summer cottage.

Flaws

• For myself, I did not find a single drawback, except that after pouring oil into the tank, it sometimes leaks (not significantly), but it is corrected by wiping the neck of the tank and the lid.

Comment
For me, this saw has become an excellent replacement for the Parma M saw (84 onwards). Now you can safely forget about manually lubricating the chain and changing it directly using a tool. The only pity is that the chain drive sprocket can only be changed at a service center.
repotraft, 2010-08-15 Grade 5

Advantages

Flaws

• After use, I began to clean it, and somehow it happened that when I unscrewed the tire clamp, a clamping nut with a spring popped out. I managed to see where it fell, otherwise I would not have found it in the grass. Careful!!!

Comment
I sawed a log of 38 cm. Like a knife enters the oil. It works quietly, it seemed so after gasoline. And yet, I have electricity in my country house. In place 220 only 170~190. I thought it wouldn't turn on at all. Everything was fine ... I didn’t notice any differences from gasoline at all!
dictionaries, 2011-09-05 Grade 5

Advantages

• Weight + weight distribution, convenient to operate and maintain.

Flaws

Comment
I bought it about a month ago at the dacha (the average plot is ~ 20 hundred, a lot of trees), in total I worked for 8-10 hours.
There were no problems during operation. The maximum diameter of the log was about 30 cm, on average 15-20 cm. It bites like butter, saws cheerfully, never bounced off (I had to cut at different angles / positions, including severely violating the manufacturer's safety recommendations ( very carefully).
Easy to maintain! On the Internet, I easily found the official catalog of spare parts with a clear diagram - all consumables can be changed by yourself if you suddenly need it during operation (for a relative of Makita 3501, it has been working all year round for preparing firewood for a bath for many years, they forgot to pour oil there (hammered) and nothing ... the tire is native, the chain was changed once, the brushes were not touched)!

Oil 4030 consumes a little, but I pour a thick Castrol Syntrax Universal transmission. For example, a friend of Makita 4020, in his words, noticeably empties the tank + part of the oil flows out during storage, which I did not find in 4030!

Advantages

• It is very convenient in work. It lies well in the hands and does not slip out due to rubberized handles. Not very loud roar. Ears do not lay on at least. The chain runs smoothly and doesn't twitch. It also doesn't turn on quickly. Powerful - gets the job done with ease. Simple and unpretentious in service. Well thought out security system. Reasonable oil consumption

Flaws

• Really good power outputs only at the appropriate voltage. And sometimes it is difficult to find it in the countryside. But if you have, for example, a private house, there shouldn't be any problems. Well, I noticed a couple of times that the oil was leaking a little, not much, but still.

Electric saws are an indispensable tool in a summer cottage or in a private house. It easily copes with cutting thick branches, boards and different material from wood. Even the most reliable tool has its own degree of wear, periodically it is required to correct minor or major breakdowns. Do-it-yourself electric saw repair is possible only in some cases and with certain skills and tools. Often the tool has to be given to the service. But there are some breakdowns that are easily fixed on their own.

Overview of the design of the chain saw

In order to master the skills of repairing electric saws, it is necessary to understand their design. The main element that cuts the material is the saw chain, which is driven by a motor. The chain itself is a set of cutting links that are hinged together. The movement of the chain is made on a plate, which is called a tire. This piece is made of steel. High Quality, which is not subject to chips, scratches and corrosion - this is the main indicator of the quality of the tool. Tires are distinguished by design:

• welded;
• one-piece with a removable tip;
• solid with a tip made of carbide materials.

A welded tire is something that looks like a "sandwich" that is welded from three constituent parts in one, while the driven sprocket is riveted into the structure. One piece construction with a replaceable tip - a product from one sheet, it is optimum for tools of big length. In such a tire, the main load falls on the roller bearing of the driven sprocket. One-piece configuration reduces friction losses by 8-10%. If a tool with a solid bar made of carbide materials, then it is optimally suited for working with high load, as well as for operation in the presence of a large number sand, dust and dirt.

1. When working with an electric saw of any configuration, it is necessary to remember about the possibility of a “kickback” - throwing the tool towards the person performing the work. This situation occurs if the very end of the saw bar rests on the material being processed. To avoid injury in such a situation, manufacturers equip saws with an automatic chain brake.

2. An automatic chain brake is also called an inertial drive, which works thanks to a shield located in front of the left hand of the person performing the work. Before starting work, this shield is placed in a position closer to the hand so that, if necessary, it is quickly activated. If a kickback moment occurs, the operator's hand rests against this shield and the chain stops. The position also changes due to the inertia arising from the impact. Such a system reduces the likelihood of repairing chain saws, since its main mechanism will not be damaged during the impact.

3. Another system that prevents wear and tear is automatic chain lubrication. Oil is poured into a special tank, which during the operation of the saw is transferred through the oil pump to the drive sprocket and chain. Some models even have an oil supply regulator, since different amounts of oil are needed for different work intensity. For example, repairing a Makita electric saw involves inspecting the oil supply system.

4. Do chain saws with electric motor, there are some shortcomings or weaknesses. One of them is the design of the gearbox. The torque is transmitted to the chain through a gearbox, which is rigidly connected to the armature of the electric motor. This design transfers all the loads to the motor, that is, if the workpiece contains hard inserts or the saw chain is blunt, then it will not glide so smoothly over the surface. The result of this will be overheating of the motor or wear of some of its parts. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to sharpen the saw in a timely manner and not put pressure on it during operation. They often go to service repair Parma power saws with this kind of malfunction.

5. Second weakness saws with an electric motor - dependence on mains voltage. If it falls, the load on the motor increases, in models that are not equipped with motor thermal protection, the increasing load leads to its combustion. But the temperature rise protection also has disadvantages, since at low voltage it works, reducing performance. For example, repairing an Interskol electric saw often comes down to increasing the voltage in the network, after which the tool functions properly.

Overview of possible malfunctions of electric saws

1. If the saw does not turn on, it is necessary to check the presence of power, the integrity of the wires and connections.
2. If everything is in order in the power supply, it is necessary to check the chain brake, which blocks the operation of the tool. To resolve this problem, you must move the brake shield to another position.
3. If the measures described above did not turn on the saw, then it is necessary to check the integrity of the cable and plug.
4. If the power of the saw has decreased, the performance has dropped, it is necessary to replace the carbon brushes, which, apparently, have worn out.
5. Quite often, the chain does not start to stop immediately, but after a certain period of time. The longer the saw is operated, the longer this time period becomes. To get rid of this problem, it is necessary to replace the saw brake band, which has worn out over time.
6. Often in the work of the saw there is an unpleasant, ear-cutting sound. Such a sound often appears due to a lack of oil in the mechanism or due to contamination of the grooves that conduct it. Troubleshooting is simple - fill in oil and clean the furrows.
7. It is important to use only original spare parts recommended by the manufacturer for repairs. The use of third party spare parts often results in tool damage or dangerous situations.
8. If there is damage to the case, then for your own safety, the saw must be returned for repair.
9. Do not replace the cutting parts of the tool that are not recommended by the manufacturer or do not fit the design.

Electric saw sharpening

One of the elements of the saw that you need to monitor yourself is the chain. It must be sharpened prophylactically, since in case of delay with this process, it will no longer be possible to repair the chain saw with your own hands. It must be given to the service, where sharpening will be done on professional machines.

1. Extending the service life of the saw element:

• Before starting work, make sure that there are no hard metal objects in the workpiece. If the cutting element comes into contact with metal object, then a notch or chip will remain on the chain, which can no longer be removed;

• it is impossible to carry out work on the ground, since the recess in the ground will clog the oil grooves, as a result of which the chain will remain without normal lubrication and wear out faster;
• it is necessary to monitor the wedge of the saw, it must not be allowed, as this overheats the metal and reduces its service life.

2. How to tell if a saw needs sharpening. To do this, just pay attention to the chips - if they are small and slightly darker, then the chain is dull. This is due to the fact that blunt edges do not remove the necessary cutting layer, this leads to chip refinement. Also, the quality of saw sharpening is determined on the basis of visual inspection, on the saw part there should be no radii, damage in the form of torn sections, the shape of the tooth and the cutting edge should be the same as on a new tool.

If all these factors do not meet necessary requirements the saw needs to be sharpened. If you continue to work on a blunt saw, then this will affect the performance, as well as the life of the saw. With sharpened elements, the load on the motor increases, it overheats and all its elements wear out faster than the specified period.

3. How to sharpen an electric saw yourself:

• sharpening requires a special tool, this is a set of files round and oval shape, mandrel and caliber;
• sometimes the set additionally includes a hook for cleaning the chain slots from chips;
• a round file is combined with a mandrel;
• flat file and gauge are used separately;
• the chain is sharpened on the saw bar itself;

• the mandrel is placed on the edge of the cutting tooth, while taking into account the angle of sharpening the chamfer;
• the sharpening angle is set to 30 or 10 °, setting the angle is the most difficult editing process, since if the wrong angle is set, the tool will be damaged;

• when sharpening, the file is set perpendicular to the shank, it protrudes slightly above the tooth when sharpening;
• sharpening takes place in one direction, that is, only translational movement, not reciprocating;
• when one tooth is sharpened, the chain is scrolled and the next tooth is sharpened;
• after all the edges of the teeth have been processed with a file, the processing of a restrictive cut begins - a protrusion on the chain, which does not have cutting edges, they are located on the same plate with the tooth. The function of this part is to form a recess when cutting;

• if the cut stops protrude strongly, then the chain will not cut, but only slide; if they are too deep, the tree will jam the cutting part of the tool;
• editing of the cut limiters is carried out with a caliber, it is applied to the edge of the cutting teeth, while end plate is on the same level with the limiter;
• if the limiter protrudes, then it must be trimmed, this is done with an ordinary flat file;
• the file along the limiter is moved in a perpendicular plane in one direction.

4. Sharpening the saw on the machine:

• for sharpening on the machine, the chain is removed from the tavern;
• the chain is installed on the guide of the machine and pulled with a roller and ratchet, which hold it by the cutting tooth;
• the machine has a protractor that sets the sharpening angle;
• the abrasive wheel is lowered, with its help an insignificant layer of metal is removed - about a few tenths of a millimeter. This is the process of straightening and sharpening the chain;
• after straightening one tooth, the guide is moved to the next and so on;
• this type of sharpening allows you to withstand the rigid framework of editing and sharpening the tool;
• if there is a desire to purchase such a machine for yourself, then it is recommended to purchase not an electric version of it, but a manual one, since its cost is much lower. The machine allows you to postpone the repair of electric saws from Bosch and any other manufacturers.

Some rules for working with electric saws

1. Chain saws are designed to operate at maximum speed, and should always be run at wide open throttle to increase productivity.
2. You should not cut at a right angle away from you, you should hold the saw at a slight angle from the body.
3. It is necessary to follow the instructions for repairing the electric saw, as well as purchase only those spare parts that are recommended by the manufacturer.
4. Before transporting the saw, it is necessary to turn off the engine, keep the bar with the chain behind you when carrying, it is necessary to pack the saw in a casing before transportation.
5. Do not operate the saw above shoulder height as this increases the risk of an accident.
6. If the saw is stuck in the material, then it must be removed from there very carefully. The buoyant force acting on the saw increases when the upper part is clamped, which is quite dangerous for the operator.
7. When working with a log framed by thin branches, one should act very carefully, since in some cases thin material is clamped by a tire and leans back towards the person doing the work.
8. It is strictly forbidden to use a defective, misadjusted or incompletely assembled instrument.
9. Before starting work, it is necessary to check the operation of the saw switch.
10. It is necessary to constantly monitor the tension of the chain, because if it is poorly tensioned, then the risk of it jumping off the guides increases, this leads not only to injuries, but also to damage to the device.
11. Repair of power saws Partner, like any other saws, is recommended to be carried out in a specialized service center, since self repair leads to serious problems in the future.

AT household, especially in a private house or in the country, a tool such as a saw is simply necessary. To work with the old "friendship - 2" you need an assistant. Saw several stacks of firewood even strong men manually would be difficult and time consuming.

It is very convenient to work with a modern chain saw. She will easily and quickly cut thick branches, boards, and will help to cope with the preparation of firewood for the winter alone. Like any mechanism, an electric saw requires proper maintenance and compliance. specifications operation. Constantly it is necessary to monitor the nominal tension of the chain, the presence of special oil in the tank, periodically the teeth of the chain require sharpening.

Follow the advice of experienced owners of such a tool - do not buy cheap power saws from dubious manufacturers. At best, such a tool will last one or two seasons, and the cost of repair will be comparable to the price of a new tool.

However, even the most reliable and high-quality tool can fail for various reasons. A power saw is not a trouble-free and reliable Kalashnikov assault rifle. There are many components and parts in a power tool that are subjected to a certain load during operation. Problems may arise from time to time. If there are no skills in repairing electrical units or the breakdown is quite serious, you should contact the service center. Do you know that when buying a tool, you should pay attention to the warranty documents. During the warranty period, in case of any, even a minor malfunction, in no case open the body of the saw. Warranty repair of electric saws must be carried out only in a workshop from the selling company.

After the warranty period has expired, you can carry out minor repairs to the power tool yourself. This requires knowledge in mechanics and electrical engineering. You will need some tools and fixtures.

Electric chain saw device

To properly maintain, make adjustments and repair work it is important to know its structure and the principle of operation and operation of protective devices.

The main cutting element is the saw chain, which is driven by an electric motor. The chain consists of a number of individual links with cutting teeth. The chain links are hinged. The saw chain is fixed with a certain tension on the plate (tire). By design, tires can be welded, one-piece with a replaceable tip and with a tip made of refractory metal. The latter are of the highest quality and withstand heavy loads.

Possible malfunctions of chain saws

If denied, check:

• If the instrument does not turn on. Check the voltage in the network, the integrity of the cable and connections.
• Check locking brake saw chain. The kickback protection system may have been activated. Move the brake shield to the working position.
• If the saw does not develop rated power and works jerkily, and the electric motor collector sparks, check the condition of the carbon brushes. They should be replaced.
• If the usual sound of the saw has changed, it began to “cut the ear”, check for oil in the barrel. Important Use only special chain saw oil recommended by the tool manufacturer.

Periodically it is necessary to sharpen the saw chain. if you have special device, then you can sharpen the teeth yourself. However, it is better to have several spare chains, and trust the master to sharpen them. This will guarantee effective work electric saws.

the main task the drain of any house is the withdrawal of any amount of water from the roof. Therefore, when designing, as well as building a house, it is necessary to calculate it correctly. In this article, we will tell you in detail how to do this.

During construction high-rise building often use change houses for storing tools and locating workers. To erect a full-fledged building, and at the end of the construction it is not advisable to dismantle everything, it is much more profitable and faster to use change houses from container blocks.