One of the brightest and most elegant inhabitants of the garden is the climbing rose. Preparation for winter, pruning and covering seem so labor-intensive to some gardeners that they do not dare to grow this type of rose. For others it's the other way around autumn care does not cause any difficulties, because climbing varieties are quite frost-resistant. But it is precisely because of this definition that the death of flowers occurs after improper shelter for the winter.

Sometimes nature presents us with such temperature changes, with sudden frosts down to -20 and prolonged thaws. Any, even the most frost-resistant varieties, cannot withstand such changes. But most often roses die not from freezing, from damping off, and it’s all our fault, we hope for a mild winter, for varietal resistance to diseases. But everything happens much simpler.

Most of our garden roses have southern species as their distant ancestors and they simply do not know that by winter they need to shed their leaves and go to sleep. They do not have a so-called state of rest. And with improper preparation for winter, and even with temperature fluctuations, they either fall into “hibernation” or awaken, which is why fertile conditions appear for the proliferation of fungi and bacteria, which can destroy roses over the winter.

Preparing a climbing rose for winter

We need to start preparing our beautiful climbing roses for winter in the summer. In mid-July they need to change their feeding. If in the spring we fed them with nitrogen fertilizers for good growth and development of new shoots, then closer to autumn they need potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. If the young shoots continue to grow, they will freeze at the first frost, a thaw will come and they will begin to rot, posing a threat to the entire bush.

Potassium will help the wood to mature, make it stronger, and it will also strengthen the roots of the plant for wintering. Phosphorus is the laying of future rose buds and buds, strengthening the root system. In this way, we set up the plant not to grow new shoots, but to strengthen those that have already appeared. This is the beginning of preparing roses for winter. The last feeding should be done in mid-September, during which time the rose will have time to prepare for harsh conditions.

Climbing roses, autumn care

In addition to the last September feeding, several more measures need to be taken that will slow down the growth of shoots, strengthen the wood and slow down the growth of roots for winter.

• To stop new buds and shoots from appearing, we stop cutting flowers. A bud usually appears below the cut and new growth begins.
• After the flower has faded, a box remains in its place, which we try to remove so that it does not spoil the appearance of the bush. So, closer to autumn there is no need to do this, because pruning the bolls will provoke the awakening of new buds.
• If you have young bushes planted in the spring of this year, you probably cut off all the buds so that the plant’s energy is spent on growing shoots. In autumn, leave all the flowers, even the smallest buds. This way, all the shoots that have already appeared will ripen faster and overwinter without problems.

In late autumn we will need to remove the foliage from the plants, not necessarily all, but a larger amount. This should be done in several approaches, starting from the bottom and gradually reaching the top. What does leaf removal give us? Firstly, this is how the rose enters a natural state of rest. Secondly, take a closer look at the leaves; they probably show signs of some diseases. Moreover, with a sharp change in temperature, they begin to rot faster.

Pruning for winter

They grow to be quite large plants and sheltering for the winter always causes a lot of inconvenience because of this, especially if the variety is very prickly. But there is no need to strive for the roots, just so that it overwinters. The flower spent all summer growing its shoots, and next year, instead of blooming wildly, it will again grow shoots. This can cause the plant to become very weak and even die.

climbing roses They are usually pruned by one third of the height, no more. In addition, old shoots with dark bark, broken and young ones that do not have time to ripen by winter, are cut out. When pruning in autumn, you can shape the desired direction of growth, depending on how your rose grows, on a support or arch.

How to cover a climbing rose for the winter

In areas with mild climates, climbing roses are placed directly on a support or arch. They cover the shoots with spruce branches and wrap them with twine to keep them in place, and wrap the entire structure on top with lutaril in several layers. This way the rose winters well.

But in mid-latitudes, winters are harsh and unpredictable. When a plant is not prepared for winter, it not only goes into a state of shock when it is severely frozen. The sap inside the shoots freezes and crystallizes, sometimes very large longitudinal cracks, frost breakers. When there is a thaw, they begin to become covered with putrefactive bacteria, and fungal diseases and the bush dies.

Before frost sets in, the roses need to be removed from the support and bent to the ground. There are some varieties with very hard and thick stems; these need to be bent in several steps, secured with metal hooks made of thick wire. You need to bend it so that the tops do not touch the ground.

If the bushes are already quite overgrown and there are a lot of shoots, you can tie them together in several places with twine, but not too much so that the thorns do not scratch the surface of the trunks.

Some craftsmen make the supports removable, that is, for the winter they are laid on the ground along with the rose vines. A frame is made on top and covered with waterproof material.

A fairly simple way to cover climbing roses, when the lashes are bent, tied with twine and laid on a layer of spruce branches. A layer of spruce branches is also placed on top and then there is a non-woven covering, reinforced on all sides.

If roses are planted in rows, then it is convenient to make huts for shelter from wooden shields, about 80 cm high. In such a hut, the lashes do not touch either the ground or the tree, which means the risk of developing diseases is reduced. Although this method is called air-dry, during the spring thaw the frost begins to melt under the shields and, thanks to the large space inside the hut, it evaporates quite quickly without causing harm to the shoots.

Such shields are installed at above-zero temperatures over bent roses, reinforced with pegs and covered on top with plastic film or any other material that does not allow moisture to pass through. In this method, it is important that the roses go dry during the winter. The ends of the huts remain open until a stable minus is established. Roses will withstand -8 quite well, the main thing is that they are not covered earlier, when there are still thaws.

In severe winters, panels can be covered with roofing felt on top of polyethylene for greater reliability. If it's on top good layer snow, then the temperature inside the hut will not drop below -10. The convenience of such a shelter is also that when there is a thaw, the ends can be opened slightly and the bushes can be ventilated.

A method of covering for roses growing in separate bushes is to build a rectangular frame with good space so that there is at least some kind of air circulation. The top is covered with lutrosil, or fiberglass, roofing felt and pressed along the edges or sprinkled with earth.

Even at above-zero temperatures, it is advisable to spray roses with a solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate to prevent fungus. For the winter, it is good to place several naphthalene tablets in a shelter under a bush to repel mice.

This variety of roses is called climbing because it has long stems (up to several meters) with which it entwines the support. These flowers are ideal option for vertical gardening. They are often planted along fences, they decorate columns, and weave along the walls of gazebos and houses.

Any space or building, even the most inconspicuous, literally “blooms” with bright colors - red, burgundy, or delicate pastels - white, pink, cream. In addition, many varieties have a wonderful aroma that spreads throughout the entire area.

Climbing roses, like other varieties of royal flowers, are quite demanding to care for. They need regular watering, weeding, fertilizing, and pruning. With the onset of autumn, activities to prepare for the upcoming winter are added to this list.

How to protect such a beautiful plant as a climbing rose from freezing, care in the fall, preparation for winter, pruning, how is it done? What work awaits the gardener with the onset of cold weather? We will talk about all this with you today on the “Popular about Health” website:

Caring for climbing roses in autumn

It is important to give the plant a break from flowering and gain strength before wintering. To prevent new buds and buds from forming, do not cut the flowers, leave them on the bush. After all, a new bud always appears on the shoot, just below the cut, and this should be avoided in the fall.

Therefore, leave all the flowers, even the youngest buds. This will help the already grown shoots to ripen faster, which means that the entire bush will overwinter better and easier.

With the onset of late autumn, you need to remove almost all the leaves from the bush. This can be done in several passes. Start with the lower branches, gradually moving to the upper ones. Pests remain on the leaves, which will easily overwinter along with the roses, and in the spring you will be tormented to fight them.

Top dressing:

In winter care for the plant, it is necessary to include the application of fertilizers. It would be nice to feed the beautiful rose so that in winter she does not experience a shortage nutrients! You need to do this starting in August.

At the end of summer, feed with a solution that strengthens the roots: for a bucket of water (10 l) we take potassium sulfate (10 g), superphosphate (25 g) and boric acid(2.5g). This volume is enough for a plot of 4 sq.m.

In early September, pour a solution of potassium monophosphate (16g) and superphosphate (15g) onto a bucket of water. Dilute the same mixture with 1x3 water and treat the leaves and shoots of the climbing rose.

You can also use ready-made fertilizers for fertilizing, for example “Autumn”. The granules are dissolved in water according to the manufacturer's instructions. Fertilizing in the fall is not aimed at the formation and growth of new shoots. They help strengthen existing ones and help the plant successfully survive the winter.

Watering:

From the beginning of autumn, towards winter, watering is reduced. On average, one is enough for 12 days. Starting from October, you no longer need to water the bushes.

Mulching:

At the end of autumn, the plants need to be weeded, weeds removed and the soil loosened. Then the bushes are mulched. For this you can use humus, peat and compost. Pine needles are especially good as mulch, as they also have phytoncidal properties.

Preparing a climbing rose for winter

Pruning climbing roses:

The climbing rose has rather long shoots. In addition, in many varieties they are covered with sharp spines. This seriously complicates the work of covering the bushes for the winter. Therefore, the shoots need to be shortened.

There is no need to cut them at the root. Next year, instead abundant flowering, the rose will be forced to grow young branches. This greatly weakens the plant and it can become sick and die.

Therefore, in the fall, pruning by 1/3 is sufficient and no more than that. In addition, it is necessary to remove old shoots (they have dark bark), diseased, broken branches, as well as very young ones that did not have time to ripen by the beginning of winter.

During autumn pruning you can immediately form the direction of growth that you need, depending on where the rose is woven - on an arch or along a support.

Even before frost sets in, spray the rose with a solution of Bordeaux mixture, or copper sulfate. This is a good prevention of fungal diseases.

Shelter for the winter

Inspect the trimmed roses carefully. Clear the branches of any remaining leaves. Check the bark for damage or cracks. If available, sprinkle them with crushed charcoal.

If the climate in your region is mild, there are no frosty winters and winds, you can cover the bush directly on the support (arch). You need to cover the roots and branches with spruce branches, which are secured with twine. The top of the resulting structure must be wrapped several times with a covering material, for example, lutaril. This will be enough for a comfortable winter.

If where you live the winters are frosty, windy and harsh, the branches need to be removed from the support and carefully bent to the ground. Make sure that the tops of the branches do not touch the soil. Or place a layer of spruce branches under the roses.

Tie it in several places with twine, but do not pull it too tightly. Now make a frame on top, cover it with spruce branches and cover it tightly with covering material and tie it to secure it.

It would be good to put a few naphthalene tablets on the soil, under cover. This will protect the roots of the plant from rodents.

IN middle lane In Russia, roses can be opened by mid-March. However, you need to take the weather into account. If the threat of frost has not yet passed, do not rush. It is definitely possible to completely free the plant from the insulating material when the soil has managed to thaw 15 cm.

Almost every summer cottage you can see various varieties of roses. Caring for a climbing rose in the fall and preparing for winter lies in the requirements of this plant for the environment. The article will provide guidance on the care and covering of these beautiful flowers, so that by next year they will delight the eye of any gardener.

Many gardeners begin preparing roses in the summer, and in the fall they feed, prune and cover their plants.

Care involves taking measures to slow down the growth of shoots and stems.

To prevent new buds and shoots from forming on the bushes, it is necessary to stop pruning.

After the faded bud, you can see a “box”, which is cut off so that it does not disturb the aesthetics garden plot. Then remove the fallen leaves, this will help the flowers go into a dormant state. In addition, many leaves suffer from diseases, and removing them will help the plant maintain immunity.

Flower pruning

1. Experienced flower growers they say that pruning plants at the beginning of autumn will be a superfluous task, and the most optimal time Weather is considered when the air temperature is minus 5 degrees Celsius. Under these conditions, the plants will harden and survive in the harsh conditions of the Moscow region.
2. Removing branches and leaves is an equally important procedure. It is needed in order not to harm the flower. Since they have diseases, pruning will save the flowers from death.
3. Eliminate broken parts of the plant.

Shelter

After the pruning is completed, you need to start covering the flowers. To do this, the stems are laid on spruce branches, and if there are none, then they can be placed on fallen leaves and covered with cellophane.

Interesting!

In warm climates, roses are covered with an arch or supports, spruce branches are placed around the shoots and the bush is wrapped in insulated material lutrasil. After winter, the plant blooms well all year round.

In the central part of the country, winter is unpredictable. In unprepared varieties, stress begins during this period, and the juice in the stems crystallizes. As a result, the plants become sick and rot during the thaw.

Save flowers from low temperatures, and dry shelter will also help against infection. It should be noted that not all varieties of roses need shelter, but only those that are not immune to cold weather. Sometimes rodents hide under cover and harm plant shoots. And to get rid of them, you will have to make a trap from poisoned sawdust with a creolin solution.

To prepare a shelter for climbing roses for the winter, some gardeners build removable supports or lay flowers parallel to the vines. Then cover with waterproof material. Everyone does this in warm weather. The lashes, bent under their weight, are tied into bundles and placed on supports.

Whoever plants flowers in rows must not forget that they are covered with a hut made of wooden shields. In this design, the lashes will not touch the ground and nearby trees, during which the incidence will decrease. The shields are secured with stakes and covered with polyethylene, which does not allow water to pass through. In this form, they retain cold down to minus 8 degrees.

During sheltering, the flowers must be dry so that when cold weather sets in they do not get sick.

Answering the question of how to cover a climbing rose for the winter and having wooden boards, they can be covered with roofing felt. Such material will withstand a significant layer of snow, and the temperature inside the structure will be such that the roses can withstand. And during the thaw, the structure is dismantled and the bushes are ventilated.

If the bushes do not grow in rows, but separately, a rectangular frame is used as a shelter, in which air can circulate. The insulating material lutrasil and roofing material are placed over the structure, which is pressed down at the edges with bricks and sprinkled with earth.

Preparing for winter

Preparing flowers in the fall has a number of activities, without which you can lose beautiful plants. Of course, there are varieties that can withstand frosts down to 30 degrees. But in some cases this type roses require all the conditions for holding events, which cannot be avoided.

• Feeding. It starts at the end of summer. During this period, flowers are fertilized with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. The first fertilizing is done in August with the addition of superphosphate, then a month later a solution of Bordeaux mixture or a fertilizer called “Kemir” is used.
• Limiting growth. You need to finish loosening the soil and trimming the buds and long shoots. If shoots or buds continue to grow, they need to be plucked and bent down.
• Shelter. When it's time to cover the rose, you should first cut off its leaves, starting with the lower ones. They are removed with the petioles. The shoots are cut off and sprinkled with earth and an antiseptic in the form of charcoal. After a day, dry sand is poured into the middle of the bush and allowed to brew for a couple of days. Then all remaining leaves are removed, the lashes are cut and treated with copper sulfate.

Preparing flowers for winter in the Urals is carried out with the same step-by-step measures, but differs by season. In a climate as harsh as that in Siberia, plants require special care, and preparation takes place almost a month earlier than in other regions of the country. Young plants can be covered with five-liter plastic bottles without a bottom and cover with dry leaves. The main thing is that the flowers do not freeze, and that they spend the winter calmly under the fallen snow.

After wintering, or preferably closer to May, the shelter is opened and ventilated to give the bushes more sun. Then watering, fertilizing and loosening are carried out.

How to keep your garden healthy

First of all, roses should be fed with superphosphate. As fertilizers, you need to use those that will strengthen the flowers. At temperature environment just below 10 degrees Celsius, young shoots must be removed to prevent them from becoming woody. It is also unacceptable to prune plants too early. This can lead to the appearance of new shoots.

After pruning, the flowers need to be whitened with special paint. You can purchase it at a gardening store or prepare it yourself. For this you will need a mixture water-based paint and copper chloride. The paint is applied with a soft brush and thoroughly rubbed into the wounds of the plant. As a rule, they whitewash from the ground up to about 20 centimeters. Then peat is poured.

Since it often rains in autumn, plants need shelter from excess moisture. Experienced gardeners usually lay the film at an angle so that the water drains and does not stagnate, or install metal arcs, and make small grooves near the arcs. Then it is worth shortening the bush by a third of its height.

When preparing flowers for the winter, it is important to cover climbing roses in the fall. Care and preparation for winter shelter takes place in dry sunny weather in two ways:

Air-dry shelter

First of all, cover the roots of the bush. This is necessary so that the flowers recover and bloom in full force in the summer. If you do not pay proper attention to the roots, the plant will die.

Despite the fact that the weather is different in all regions of the country, an air-dry shelter is suitable for such a garden plot, which is located in a lowland, and where there is high humidity or groundwater.

Next, the bush is freed from leaves, which are subsequently burned and the bushes are tilted to the ground, using available materials. The plant should be bent before it loses its flexibility. With such shelter, pruning is often not done, but only young shoots are removed, and dry sand is poured around the plant trunk. When frost sets in, a frame 80 centimeters high is made for this shelter and covered with roofing felt. And with the onset of severe frosts, the frame is completely covered with insulation or protective film.

The shelter must be reliable and durable so as not to allow excess moisture and cold wind to pass through, as well as withstand the load from the snow cover. With the onset of spring, everyone removes and ventilates the bushes to give the flowers access to the sun's rays.

A climbing rose is a decoration for a garden plot. It is often used for vertical gardening both in private estates and in public places.

The ease of forming a bush and the variety of varieties allow you to create magnificent color compositions on arches, tripods, as well as decorate the walls of buildings and create hedges.

In this article we will tell you in detail how to grow climbing roses in the garden and what conditions must be observed for healthy plant growth and flowering.

Selecting a location

Climbing rose bushes grow well and bloom profusely in sunny and ventilated places. Since the plant has vines from 2 to 5 meters, it needs to be tied to supports. These can be purchased or made independently.

Please note: It is advisable that the rose receive shade for at least 2 hours a day to avoid burns of the leaves and stems.

Soil requirements are minor. When planting seedlings, the soil is prepared by adding the mineral and organic complex of fertilizers necessary for growth.

The rose takes root well in loamy and peat soils. It tolerates drought easily, but does not tolerate wetlands. Places in the garden where groundwater is located close to the surface should be excluded, because the roots of the rose reach 2 meters.

Planting scheme and hole preparation

Rose seedlings are planted in prepared holes. Roses are light-loving plants; for the development of vines and the formation of flower buds for the next year, it is necessary good lighting bush.

To do this, seedlings are placed at a distance of at least 50 cm from each other or from the wall.

Place a bucket of humus, 1 kg of lime, 1 bucket of sand or clay (depending on the composition of the soil on the site, if the substrate is sandy, then add clay), 3 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate.

Seedling preparation and planting

Seedlings are planted in early spring and autumn. It is better to plant in the fall in September, then the rose will have time to take root by winter period and will begin to grow actively in early spring.

In spring, planting is carried out in April, so in the first year flowering will occur 10-15 days later than in adult plants.

You can grow a climbing rose seedling yourself from seeds, which will require persistent and painstaking work. Rose seeds are small and require stratification and very careful handling and care.
Preparation for landing proceeds as follows:

• the day before planting, soak the roots of the plant in a stimulant solution;
• cut the stems of the seedlings, leaving a height of about 30 cm, lubricate the cuts with varnish, which will prevent infections;
• everyone is bad and long roots are removed, the sections are treated with charcoal (can be replaced with activated carbon, which is easy to buy at the pharmacy);
• Immediately before planting, the roots are dipped into a mash made of clay and mullein.

After preparatory work, proceed to boarding. A mound of earth is poured into the prepared hole, on which the seedling is placed.

Please note: the root collar of the plant should be located 10-15 cm below ground level. This depth helps protect the bush from harsh winters.

The roots are distributed over the entire mound and covered with the rest of the soil mixture to the surface. So that there is no space left with air inside, the earth is compacted. The seedling is watered abundantly warm water or root stimulator solution. Top layer soils are mulched with sawdust, straw or grass. This will prevent the appearance of weeds and allow the young plant to develop well.

Rose bush care

When growing roses, the gardener should pay attention to the following points:

1. 1. Watering. Roses need abundant watering once every 8-10 days directly into the hole.
   2. Root feeding is carried out at least once every two weeks. The best fertilizer there will be a mixture of wood ash(1kg), mullein (1kg) and superphosphate (20-30g) per bucket of water. During the growing season, the rose requires at least 4 feedings. Use organic, mineral and complex fertilizers. No fertilizing is done during the flowering period.

1. 1. Foliar feeding is carried out by spraying the leaves with a solution of complex liquid fertilizer for indoor flowers.
   2. . Spring pruning promotes the formation of the bush and regulates the duration and abundance of flowering. In spring, frozen and rotted shoots are removed. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the pruning height, which depends on the type of rose. Summer pruning carried out to stimulate new abundant flowering; for this, already faded lashes are removed.

1. 1. Forming a bush for abundant flowering. Early spring The main shoots are left on the ground for the growth of replacement shoots that will bloom the following year. When the replacement shoots reach a height of 50 cm, the main shoots are raised and placed in a horizontal or spiral position.
   2. Treatment against diseases and pests. Carried out as needed. The main diseases to which climbing roses are susceptible: powdery mildew, rust, bacterial cancer, black spot. For the prevention and treatment of these ailments, solutions of copper sulfate (200g per 10l) are used. iron sulfate(300g per 10l), Bordeaux mixture (200-300g per 10l). Chemicals are used against pests (Iskra, Fufafon, Intavir).

Attention: cut off and destroy all damaged shoots so that diseases do not spread to healthy shoots.

(click on the picture to enlarge)

Even more useful information You can read about the features of growing and caring for climbing roses.

- flowers that are available for cultivation by an ordinary gardener and do not require complex care. Following these tips will allow you to enjoy beautiful flowering bushes climbing roses at their summer cottage. As rose growers say, once you start, you won’t be able to stop.

From this video You will learn how to properly plant and care for a climbing rose: