The binding of a book has a dual purpose: service - to fasten the sheets into a block and protect them from damage, to carry the most necessary information about the book (author, title, volume number) and aesthetic - to decorate the book, give it an attractive appearance. appearance. Bindings in the form we are familiar with appeared before the invention of printing, and over this long period their design remained virtually unchanged. The technology for making bindings changed: directly on the book block, separately from the book block, which made it possible to produce bindings in large quantities with less working time, and, finally, the production of bindings in modern printing houses on automatic lines. The materials from which the bindings were made changed: wooden boards, parchment, leather, paper, bookbinding fabrics, synthetic polymer materials. The styles and appearance of bindings changed. They were decorated with blind flat or relief embossing, gold embossing of fine and elegant ornaments, ivory, skillfully engraved precious metal, precious stones, used soft, brightly colored leather (morocco), velvet, brocade, embroidery, decorative paper. The aesthetics of binding has always been and is given great attention. It is no coincidence that the book by P. Simoni, published in 1903, has the title: “An Experience in a Collection of Information on the History and Technology of Bookbinding in Rus',” and the book by L.N. Simonov, published in 1897 in St. Petersburg, is “Binding craftsmanship and art of binding decoration..."

Along with books in expensive, luxurious bindings, at the beginning of the 17th century. In order to save leather, they began to produce composite bindings: the spine of the binding and the corners were covered with leather, and the sides with decorative paper. Later, decorative paper was used to make endpapers.

Binding designs for rare books published in countries Western Europe, were distinguished by great diversity, which, however, can be reduced to two types: binding with a blind spine and binding with a trailing edge.

In a binding with a blind spine, the material used to cover the binding cover is glued directly to the spine of the block. When the book is opened, the material that covers the spine bends in an arc along with the spine of the block.

In setback binding, the binding material is glued only to the binding covers, leaving the spine of the block free. When a book is opened, the spine of the block bends in an arc, but the spine of the binding retains its shape: straight or rounded. Laced binding can be made separately or mounted on a block. Meet various options bound bindings: whole-cut, compound, with edging, edged, with a rib, with bandages, with false bandages, binding on a sleeve.

Many types of bindings have survived to this day. The following types of modern bindings are most often found in libraries: binding No. 7 - solid all-fabric with edging, round or straight spine; binding No. 8 - compound, hard with edging, round or straight spine; seamless-glued books, brochures, magazines with paper covers. Timely production of a new binding and restoration of the old one are among the most important measures to ensure the safety of books.

Making a new binding is necessary in cases where the book does not have one or is badly damaged, when the old binding is dilapidated and cannot fulfill its official function, but is of historical or artistic value and must be preserved. It is removed and, after appropriate processing, glued onto a new binding. Knowledge of technology hand made bindings are also necessary for their restoration, therefore it is more expedient to start with a description of the manufacturing technology of bindings.

The main binding elements are shown in Fig.

Good day!

Not much today, but very interesting.

I make false bindings for windows with my own hands, very budget option, and I’ll tell you how this can be done.

In front of you plastic window consisting of 4 parts. The overall dimensions of the window are approximately 2000 mm by 1500.

The cost of the material, including the necessary strips for separation, is 375 rubles. Total length 30 meters, I took it with a reserve, since it is necessary to make several more windows. And the required length is 24 meters. Ridiculous price, compared to original false bindings which cost 300 rubles per meter)).

And so let's get started.

Required materials:

• We will need acetone to degrease the surface of the glass and the bindings themselves, since they do not have double-sided tape.
• Accordingly, double-sided tape.
• And the cable channel, yes, you didn’t hear the cable channel measuring 20 by 10. Choose a good one that closes tightly and is soft and slightly blue, such a cable channel will not turn yellow.
• Well that's good sharp knife with side cutters.

We make markings using a tape measure and calculate required quantity sections into which we want to divide.

We take the cable channel, measure it along the glass and cut it with side cutters. And at the end we close the lid and only then cut it in place with a knife. The more carefully you do this, the less visible the joints will be. I managed to practically not see them.

The result is obvious. Stylish, beautiful and neat. And most importantly it's cheap.

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to write. There is one caveat, I haven’t looked at it from the street side yet))), well, I think if the floor is high, then in principle it won’t be bad.

And this is what Valeria writes:

« Hello, I'm talking about false binding. In short, I used 3m automotive tape, onto which deflectors and Ekoplast 20*10 cable channels are attached; the manufacturer assures that they contain the same “non-fading pigments” as in the double-glazed window profile. The summer was very sunny, nothing turned yellow yet. At the intersection of the cable channels, I also glued adhesive tape, in general, the result was a kind of overhead grille that adheres quite firmly to the window profile, but does not touch the glass and therefore does not spoil it, the entire structure can be quickly dismantled, and nothing can be washed off from traces tape I degreased everything with white spirit and finished with phenyl for each compound. I'll send you a photo))) «

I thank her for the new experience)).

Good luck everyone and don't be afraid to experiment.

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The designs of window frames (casements) are very diverse. Basically, the choice of one design or another depends on the desire and taste of the owner of the future home, on traditions and on possibilities.

Wood is traditional natural material during manufacture.

Make wooden window frames perhaps with your own hands.

Of course, this process requires certain skills and knowledge, but anyone who has a great desire to do everything with their own hands can do any kind of construction work, even making a window. A do-it-yourself window frame requires special care and precision from the craftsman during manufacturing.

Another important factor when choosing window design is the size of the window, the location of the building and on what floor the future window will be located. By making window frames with your own hands, you guarantee the uniqueness and individuality of your windows.

Constructions

Window frame designs are divided into several types.

The design of window frames is divided into the following types:

• blind bindings;
• casement (opening) - the doors can be different quantities(from 1 to 3);
• lifting;
• sliding;
• With additional installation transoms or windows (one or more).

Wooden casement window frames are most often made using three elements. These are two opening doors and a transom fixed above them. The transom may be blind, openable, or absent altogether.

The components of the window sashes and transoms are frames (top, bottom and side) and slabs (impost). For the corner connection of the strappings, a double tenon is used, and for connecting the slabs with the strappings, a single tenon with glue is used, using dowels for more reliable fastening.

The manufacturing process requires the craftsman to have certain skills and knowledge, as well as accuracy and precision. But anyone who has a great desire to do everything with their own hands can do any type of construction work.

Before you start manufacturing, prepare the necessary tools:

• thicknesser;
• chisel;
• construction knife;
• hacksaw;
• sandpaper (for cleaning);
• screwdriver or electric drill with drill attachments;
• plane;
• square;
• pencil or marker;
• ruler or tape measure.

Return to contents

Manufacturing technology

In order to make wooden window frames, it is necessary to select bars (square or rectangular) of the appropriate quality. They should be dry and free of knots. The quality of manufactured frames must be at high level since they have great value while maintaining heat in the house.

Profiles for windows with one and two glasses

1. The first step is to properly process the block on one side.
2. Then, using a surface planer, mark the risks on the second and third sides. Align the fourth side according to the intended risks, using planing.
3. After this, you can plan the second side. It is important to achieve right angles between the sides of the bar.
4. Next, using a thicknesser, you need to mark the first and fourth sides, and then plan the third side of the block.
5. Now that all the bars have been processed in this way, you can begin to create folds. The folds are arranged so that in the finished frame their location is in the same plane. Otherwise, the glass will not have the required degree of compaction.

The size of the folds directly depends on the type of seal and glass, or more precisely, its thickness. If glazing bead is used as a seal, then the folds must be made wider than when using putty as a seal.

Another factor influencing the size of the folds is the thickness of the strapping bars themselves, as well as the slabs. Do not forget that too narrow folds will easily allow the wind to pass through.

Connections in which tenons are used are subject to particularly careful execution, such that it allows high density parts fit into each other, avoiding gaps and distortions. To make (cut out) tenons, use a hacksaw with a small and narrow blade.

When assembling a window structure special attention should be paid to the angles of connection of the parts. The perpendicular position is checked using a square. External doors with a width of more than 700 mm are fastened with metal angles.

The connection can be made both from the space between the glasses and from the outside. If the bindings are of a summer nature, then the angles are placed on the inside.

During the manufacturing process, in those places where there is mutual abutment of the sashes and transoms, it is necessary to select quarters that make it difficult to blow through the porches. The sashes are treated with the help of strips that cover the gaps of the vestibules.

To reduce air penetration into the house, a seal is placed in the frame along the entire perimeter of the vestibule. This could be foam rubber, sponge rubber, cord, and so on.

If the frame design contains shutters, vents or transoms of an external nature, the lower trim must be made with a groove and ebb, that is, a drip designed to collect drops flowing down the glass.

When performing the steps of assembling and adjusting the bindings, pay attention to the fairly tight fit of the rebates with each other and in relation to the box, more precisely, to its quarters. If this is not done, then dust will enter the house through the cracks, and in the cold season it will create a heat leak.

To reduce air penetration into the house, a seal is placed in the frame along the entire perimeter of the vestibule. This could be foam rubber, sponge rubber, cord, and so on. The main thing is that this seal has properties such as elasticity, durability and strength. For the same purposes, flashings are used.

Quite a lot of heat escapes from the room through window openings, so serious attention must be paid to the manufacture of frames and their glazing.

From wood products prepare bars of the desired shape and size, always planing them with a jointer. They can be smooth or with selected grooves. Knots and other defects are drilled out or cut out with a chisel, giving the holes a round or diamond shape and sealing them with glue inserts.

Corner joints in bindings are made with two tenons. The slabs with straps and the bars of the vents are made with one tenon. To strengthen corner ties, in addition to glue, dowels are used at the rate of one dowel per connection.

To make these connections and folds, marks are made on the bars with a thicknesser or comb and tenons and eyes are filed along these marks, selecting folds. If necessary, cut the wood “on the miter” at the nodes for a tight connection, having previously marked the cutting lines along the square.

External sashes with a width of more than 700 mm and a height of more than 1800 mm are often fastened with metal angles from the side of the interglazed space, and sometimes from the outside. For summer bindings, the angles are placed indoors.

The sizes of bars and slabs of bindings vary different sections, which depends on the size of the binding sashes. With a sash width of 700 and a height of 1200 mm, the side rails should have a cross-section of 44 x 65 mm, and with a width of 700-800 mm and a height of 1200-1800 mm - 54 x 65 mm.

The total width of the narthex of two bars with a cross-section of 54 x 61 mm should be 110 mm, for narthexes in windows with an impost - up to 140 mm, for casements with overlay - 150 mm. It is customary to make the middle strapping bars 4 mm wider than the width of the side bars, which makes it possible to reduce the width of the middle vestibule. The slabs in the bindings are made the same thickness as the strapping bars; The minimum width of pine slabs is 25mm. Bound large sizes The width of the slabs can be more than 30mm. For the manufacture of regular sized windows, take bars 44mm wide and 34 and 44mm thick, for overlaid windows - 51mm wide.

The shape of the bars and slabs can be simple or profiled.

However, in all cases they must have a 1:10 bevel that goes from the glass to front side bindings, which is necessary to drain condensate from the glass.

In addition, so that the sashes are tightly covered and easily opened, bevels are also made in the outer side edges of the sashes and vents.

On the outer edges of the frames, transoms and windows, small quarters or folds are selected, into which the glass is then inserted. The size of these folds depends on the thickness of the strapping bars and slabs, as well as on whether the glass is coated with putty or closed with thin glazing beads wooden slats, smooth or grooved. The latter require wider folds. With a thickness of strapping bars of 54mm, the depth of the folds should be 14-15mm, and the width - 8-13mm, with a thickness of bars of 44mm, 13 and 10mm, respectively. Reducing the size of the folds is undesirable in order to avoid cold wind blowing through them. It is better to make the folds a little wider than narrower.

Blind binding

This blind binding is designed for three glasses (Fig. 44, a). It can be assembled from six rectangular bars of the same cross-section, although it is better to make the middle bars - the slabs - thinner.

Prepare two long and four short bars of the required size (for example, Fig. 44, 6 shows four bars of the same size). The diagram for economical marking of bars is shown in Fig. 44, v. On each block you need to mark tenons, eyes, sockets and folds. At the ends of the long strapping bars, there are eyes, in the middle there are through or blind sockets for the spikes of the horizontal croaker, which has spikes at the ends, and in the middle there is a socket into which the spike of the vertical croaker will fit. The top bar has spikes at the ends, the bottom bar has lugs at the ends, and in the middle there are sockets for a vertical slab. Only spikes remain at the ends of the vertical croaker.

Secure the bars with markings in a workbench in a vertical position. Then use a fine-tooth saw to carefully cut down the tenons and lugs. This process was described in detail in the chapter "Making tenon joints".

Strict requirements are imposed on the accuracy of tenon joints. A slight misalignment of a tenon or eyelet will ruin the entire binding. A tenon that is thicker than the width of the socket or eye hole will split the block, and one that is thinner than necessary will create a weak connection. The corner connections of the bars, tenons and eyes must be made accurately, without additional cleaning with a chisel.

Having filed down the spikes and eyes, proceed to their further processing. Cut off the cheeks of the tenon parts and hollow out the wood in the tenons and lugs or sockets. Hammer exactly according to the markings and always on both sides, followed by trimming and cleaning individual rough spots. After removing all the roughness, use a folding tool or a zenzubel to select the folds, in in this case wide and deep (Fig. 44, d).

After selecting the folds, the width of the tenons and eyes on the binding bars remains different, which complicates their assembly or connection and requires trimming the cheeks. Therefore, it is better to make the spikes and eyes the same width by cutting off the protruding parts (Fig. 44, e). In order for the bars and slabs to fit tightly against each other, the protruding part of the bar must be cut off “on a mustache”. To do this, place a sharp chisel with the chamfer outward to the mark at an angle of 45° and hit it with a mallet (Fig. 44, e).

The folds are made with a width equal to one or two tenon thicknesses. In this case, the folds run along the edge of the tenon, which facilitates the connection of parts and does not require additional sawing and trimming.

Having prepared all the bars, proceed to assembling the binding dry. To make the tenons easier to fit into the eyes and not pinned, remove small chamfers with a chisel. Spikes that fit into the eyes tightly, with great effort, must be cleaned with a chisel. Make the nests in the bars equal to the width and thickness of the tenon.

All parts in the assemblies must be tightly adjacent to each other. However, when sawing, the edge still remains torn, and it has to be trimmed with a chisel. Leaks also occur in the places where the cheeks of the tenon part meet the eye, because the shoulders do not always have an even cut line. Therefore, they put a square on them and use a chisel to cut off part of the wood with a slant inward (undercut).

For a dry-assembled binding, be sure to check the accuracy of the joining of the parts and the squareness - with a square in the corners, with a strip diagonally. Please also ensure that the binding folds are at the same level or in the same plane. Then the glass fits more tightly.

After checking the binding, mark all the parts, disassemble and start gluing. First, assemble bars 3,4,5, insert them into bar 1, then insert bar 2 and put strap 1 on them (Fig. 44, g). The spikes and eyes must be coated with glue directly during assembly.

Place the assembled binding in the wedges, check with a square and a lath for squareness and compress with wedges at the knots until they fit tightly together. Then drill holes with a diameter of 10-12 mm in the corners (Fig. 44, h) and hammer dowels into them with glue. After this, the binding can be removed from the binding and left to dry for 2-3 days, and then cleaned by cutting off the protruding parts of the tenons and dowels with a chisel.

Having cleaned the binding, proceed to installing the casting on the lower and middle bars of the outer binding. The shape of the tide can be different, but a semicircular or semicircular teardrop groove is always placed under them. rectangular section, placing it at a distance of 10mm from the outer edge. The length of the ebb is usually equal to the width of the binding (Fig. 44, i).

To fasten the ebb in the lower beam of the binding, at a distance of 10 mm from the fold, select a groove with a depth of up to 10 mm. The width of the groove should be equal to the thickness of the ebb, for which purpose a ridge is left in the ebb equal to the length of the lower bar or the groove made. Saw grooves in corner connections not recommended to avoid loosening them. If sometimes grooves are cut into the bars, then they are no more than 3 mm deep. They put the tides on waterproof glue and are additionally secured with nails, which are driven into the nodal joints and 1-2 in the middle of the ebb. The ends of the ebb in non-opening frames and transoms are left straight or cut off at an angle of 45° in the case of opening frames, and at 60° in the vestibule.

Binding with window

The vents can be arranged in any binding, regardless of the profile of the bars and slabs used. The window opening into the room must be larger in a winter frame than in a summer one, otherwise you won’t be able to open it.

When making a binding with a window, an additional socket of the appropriate shape is attached to the above-described binding. It is placed between the strapping block and the vertical slab (Fig. 45, a). The slab is made with a quarter for the window and a fold for the glass (Fig. 45, b).

To arrange a quarter for a window opening into the room (Fig. 45, c), overhead bars can be nailed or screwed to the previously selected folds. If the windows open outward, then choose deeper quarters from the bars and slabs, increasing the existing folds with a chisel. In this case, the overhead bars are not nailed down (Fig. 45, d).

The porch of the vents can be smooth (Fig. 45, e), as well as with a quarter or overlay, which are arranged to reduce airflow. The quarters and overlaps are laid out along the bars of the window after it is made. The fusion can be arranged from the side where the hinges are attached (Fig. 45, e). The window is often made with a single spike, but it is also possible with a double one. The spikes are made on horizontal (longer) bars, and the eyes are made on vertical bars.

Casement bindings

Such bindings (Fig. 45, g) are made with or without a window. The sizes of the sashes and transoms can be very different. The figure shows a binding with moldings and two casts. One flashing is placed at the bottom of the transom, the other at the bottom of the sashes with the ends cut into a cone. Sash bindings are made in the following sequence. Plane the strapping bars under the square. Mark the places of tenons, eyes, folds and grooves. The tenons and eyes are filed down, the folds and grooves are selected, the wood from the tenons and eyes is selected, that is, the strapping bars are prepared. In the lower bar of the transom and the lower bars of the sashes, grooves for ebb tides are selected. Then the bars are assembled dry and all inaccuracies are corrected, checking diagonally and with a square.

The sashes are made 10-15mm higher than shown in the drawing. In addition, one sash is made 10-15mm wider. These allowances are needed to select the quarters of the vestibules between the sashes, as well as the sashes and the transom. Often, for this purpose, the height of the transom is increased. The narthexes are made with a zenzubel, securing the sash or transom in the side box of the workbench.

A gap of 2 mm is left at the vestibules for a layer of paint, otherwise the sashes will not close well after painting. The ends of the ebb tide at the transom are left at right angles; at the ends of the valves they are cut “on a miter” at an angle of 45°, and in the vestibule - at an angle of 60°.

The transom and sashes are assembled dry, checked, then disassembled, glued, placed in wedges, checked diagonally with a lath, and in the corners with a square. Then they compress, drill holes in the corners and place dowels on the glue. After drying, the castings are cleaned and installed on the glue.

The simplest window block

Real window profiles have very complex shape. They must be made to exact dimensions, otherwise the window will not be airtight. Even ebb tides are quite difficult to manufacture. But you can make a simpler version of the window. It, of course, will not be as airtight as the factory one, but can be successfully used on balconies, in country houses, in attics, verandas, etc.

The described window consists of a box fixed in the opening, to which a frame with glass is attached. To make the box, you should choose boards with a section of 50 x 150mm. For the frame, you can use a beam with a section of 50 x 50mm. The linear dimensions of the source materials are selected based on the size of the window opening.

The box is made from well-dried planed boards. In the board you need to select a quarter 130mm long and 15mm deep so that a ridge is formed at the end. This ridge is necessary to seal the window. After this, the board must be marked in accordance with the dimensions of the future box and cut into four parts. The parts are fastened together using ordinary straight tenons with fixation dowels.

Assembly is carried out as described above. IN finished product metal can be attached to the ends of the box window corners to give the structure additional strength.

The second stage will be assembling the sash with glass. It is made in the same way as a box, and the use of dowels and corners is mandatory so that the sash does not warp when open. The dimensions of the sash should be such that there is a gap of 1-2mm between it and the frame.

At the bottom of the trim bar, a matching groove is selected for the window frame, 20 mm wide and 15 mm high. There can be two or one upper grooves, depending on the number of glasses. Their width is 14mm, and their height is 10mm with the dimensions of the bar being 50 x 50mm. In this case, the glazing beads should be 10x10mm in size; glass thickness 4mm.

For the manufacture of profiles, a chisel, a mold, an electric planer or hand router. The profile is sawn into pieces. Then tenon joints are made with tenon lengths of at least 3 cm, the binding is assembled and glued. The glass is secured using glazing beads. After this, all that remains is to attach the hinges and other fittings and hang the sash. Finally, you can stick a seal around the perimeter of the rebate.

MANUFACTURE AND INSTALLATION OF DOOR FRAMES

Boxes for stone and similar buildings are made from boards 50 - 60 mm thick, 100 mm wide or more. The blanks are planed to size, quarters with a depth of the thickness of the door and a width of 15 - 30 mm are selected. The parts are connected to each other with straight or oblique tenons strictly in a square.

Install the box in the same way as in window openings. The bottom bar must be strictly horizontal. Vertical bars are installed using a square, weight or level. The leveled box is secured with wedges and then with ruffs, driving them into the masonry seams or wooden bosses.

Wooden boxes for chopped wooden buildings are made from thick square or rectangular shape. They are planed to the required size; in vertical bars, quarters, grooves, tenons and eyes are selected.

The bottom of the doorway is usually laid more thick log, which serves as the bottom bar or threshold. Before laying, the top is cut off strictly horizontally and a quarter is selected. Ridges are cut out in the walls, and nests are hollowed out in the bottom log, into which bars are inserted with spikes. Eyes are made at the upper ends of the vertical bars, and tenons are made at the top bar. Install details door frame exactly the same as window ones. The top block is temporarily secured with wedges, and the gap with tow. The box is checked with a weight or level; it must be assembled exactly into a square.

Boxes for internal doors- less.massive. They can consist of three or four bars. They are attached to the posts, most often with nails. If the box is made of three bars, then the vertical ones at the bottom are attached to the beam or to the floor using spikes. The gaps between the boxes and walls or partitions are covered with platbands.

The bindings can be solid (in the form of a whole frame) and opening, with or without windows, and consist of only two sashes or two sashes and a transom.

Rice. 62. Sequence of planing a block

Rice. 63. Blind binding (frame) and its details:

A. b, c - nodes; 1, 4 - croakers; 2, 3 - bars; 5 - folds

Bindings are made from bars and slabs, often rectangular and less often square shape with selected folds (quarters small size) for glass. The bars are connected to each other with eyes and spikes.

The bars are prepared like this. First, one side is planed, then with a thicknesser, marks are applied on the second and third sides and the fourth side is planed along them. After this, the second side is planed under the square and marks are made on it for planing the third side (Fig. 62).

Particularly strict requirements are imposed on bindings, since even well-made bindings remove a lot of heat from the room.

The edges of the bindings should fit as closely as possible to each other or to the quarters of the box. Tenon joints the bars should also be dense. Cut the holes for the hinges precisely so that the hinges fit tightly into them.

The folds of the bindings must be placed in the same plane so that the glass laid on them fits tightly to them. In this case, when glazing with single putty, there is no heat loss. When glazing with double putty, much less of the latter is required.

Blind bindings made of rectangular bars consist of an upper, lower, two side bars and two slabs (horizontal and vertical), which divide the binding into separate parts (Fig. 63). In nodes ive the bars are connected with spikes and eyes, and in the knot b- thorn and socket.

Rice. 64. Marking the binding bars:

a - risks; b - marking with a thicknesser; V- making marks with a comb; G - making marks along the square; 1 - risks for miter trimming; 2 - risks for filing tenons and eyes; 3 - risks for rebate sampling; 4 - pins; 5 - risk

Rice. 65. The procedure for filing tenons and lugs:

1 - places to cut; 2 - saw blade; 3 - eye detail; 4 - risks; 5 - tenon detail

Rice. 66. Selection of folds

On the planed bars, marks are applied (Fig. 64) for tenons, eyes, sockets, folds, and the width of the cutting of the bars “on the miter” is determined in the places where they abut each other. Along the width of the bar, marks are applied using a square, along the length - using a thicknesser or comb - a piece of a bar with a cutout and filled with nails. It is customary to make eyelets in vertical bars, and spikes in horizontal bars.

According to the risks, the spikes and eyes heal. A lot depends on the accuracy of the filing. For example, it is impossible to allow distortions or spikes that are thicker than the width of the eyes, as this can lead to splitting of the block. If the spikes are thinner than the eyes, the connection will be fragile.

When filing, the saw teeth should be near the notch, but the notch itself should not be affected. The saw should go from the mark to 1/4 of its thickness (approximately 0.1 mm). When filing tenons, the cutting line should go from the outside, and when filing lugs, from the inside (Fig. 65).

Having filed down the tenons and eyes on the sides of each tenon part, saw off the cheeks and hollow out unnecessary wood, removing chips no more than 5 mm thick. Then the nests are cleaned; eyes, tenons, rebates are selected, and, if required, moldings. The width of the folds should correspond to the edge of the tenon and eye, and they themselves should be in the same plane and not require additional corrections (Fig. 66).

After selecting the folds, the width of the eyes and tenons becomes different, so they do not fit tightly together. To avoid this, the part of the wood protruding in the places of tenons and eyes is cut off “on a miter” at an angle of 45° (Fig. 67).

Rice. 67. Cutting cheeks and trimming “on the mustache”:

a - cutting the cheeks; b - miter trimming of the eye part; V - finished tenon part

Rice. 68. Bindings from bars with chamfered:

A. - general view bar; b - taking risks; V- cut lines; G- tenon and eye parts; d - assembly of the unit; 1 - cut lines; 2 - thorn; 3- - eye; 4 - folds

If the spikes fit tightly into the eyes, they are cleaned a little with a chisel and chamfered. After assembly, the binding is checked for squareness with a square and a strip, applying them diagonally. The binding parts are marked, disassembled and reassembled, but with glue. Then the binding is checked with a square, secured in compression, holes with a diameter of 8 - 10 mm are drilled in the joints and dowels are hammered into them with glue. The bindings, removed from compression after a few hours, are dried for two or three days, then they are cleaned, the protruding pins are cut off, and the folds are adjusted, which must be strictly in the same plane.

On the outside of the lower beam of the frames or sashes, ebbs are installed to drain water from the walls. At the bottom of the ebb, select a teardrop groove, placing it 10 mm from the edge.

You can select a shallow groove in the block and install the ebb not with glue, but with thick oil paint, attaching it with screws. It is more durable and water does not penetrate through the gap.

Rice. 69. Bindings with a window:

a-binding with a window; 6 - overhead block in binding; V - rebate sampling; G - porches: d- window; 1, 3, 4 - slab for the window; 2 - a quarter for the window. 5, 6- overhead bars; 7 - window with a smooth narthex; 8 - window with a quarter; 9 - window with overlay

Bindings from chamfered bars (Fig. 68) are made in the following sequence. On the prepared rectangular bars, marks are applied for tenons, eyes, sockets, folds and chamfers. The tenons and eyes are sawed down and the seams are selected, the wood is selected from the tenons and eyes, the nests are hollowed out and only after that the grooves are chamfered or the grooves are selected. The remaining work is performed in the same sequence as when assembling blind bindings. Bindings with a window (Fig. 69) are made like other bindings, and only an additional block is installed for the window. For the porch of the window, quarters are needed. If the windows open into the room, the quarters can be made overhead by attaching slats with nails or screws (Fig. 69.6). If you need a window that opens outward, the folds in the binding are deepened with a chisel to fit the size of the window and an additional block is placed (Fig. 69, c).

Rice. 70. Casement binding:

1 - low tides; 2 - transom; 3 - window; 4 - sashes; 5 - cover plate

Rice. 71. The porch of the doors

The vents have a smooth ledge, with a quarter or overlay (Fig. 69, d), which reduces the blowing. The quarters are planed, and the overlay is filled from individual slats. The window is knitted on single spikes, but better on double spikes, which are also suitable for horizontal bars. The dimensions of the window and its general appearance are shown in Figure 69, d.

Windows that open to different sides, have the same dimensions, and on one side (inside) in summer binding should be smaller than in winter binding.

Casement bindings(Fig. 70) consist of two sashes or two sashes and a transom. They can be with or without windows. Flashings are installed on the lower bars of the sashes and on the transom. During manufacturing, special attention is paid to the design of the rebate (Fig. 71), the accuracy of which determines the degree of ventilation. Flashings are additionally attached to the vestibules. The dimensions of the valves should be 10 - 15 mm larger than those indicated in the drawing, and one valve should be wider by the same amount. This is necessary to obtain a rebate that has a gap of 2 mm in the middle and 1 mm at the edges.

After gluing and drying, the sashes and transom are cleaned, the porches are planed, and then the grooves for the ebb. At the ends of the sashes, the ebbs are cut “on a miter” at an angle of 45°, in the vestibule - at an angle of 60°, at the transom - at a right angle.

Lattice frames (Fig. 72) are used for glazing terraces and other structures. Allows the use of small glass sizes. Bindings can be solid or folding, with or without windows. When assembling, the slabs are first connected, onto which the strapping bars are then put.

Rice. 72. Lattice bindings:

a - binding; b- croakers and their connection