Wood carving can be both a profession and an exciting one. With the help of wood carving, you can make small artistically executed products (for example,) and products large sizes(e.g. picture frames, furniture) In order to be able to do this, special tools are required. They are used to carry out the following types of wood processing: sawing, trimming, splitting, planing, chiseling, turning, carving.

Types of wood cutters

Wood carving cutters include the following types of tools:

1. Knives-cutters. The blade of these knives is beveled at an angle of 30-45 degrees. Knives can be single-faced (used for relief cutting) and two-faced (have a universal purpose).
2. To fill the contour and cut straight long lines use blunt knives. Cutting angle These knives have a bevel angle of 60º.
3. Chisels. This type of cutters is most in demand when processing wood. These are steel rods with a sharp cutting blade, which are mounted on a wooden handle with a steel ring. Chisels can be:

• straight and wide – used for cleaning and cutting smooth or convex wooden surfaces;
• narrow – for cutting parts in narrow places;
• narrow with a bent blade - for cleaning the deep bottom;
• straight with a rounded blade - for processing hardwood or cutting horny pods;
• chisel-chisel with a thick steel rod - for processing wood with a deep cavity;
• semicircular (divided into sloping and steep). Designed to cut recesses and smooth lines.

Klukarzy. These are special chisels that are used to cut complex products from wood. They have grooved and curved blades, with which you can cut a rounded cut of the desired depth and radius. Cranberries are:

• wide – used for cutting large holes;
• narrow - with their help, holes with a smaller radius are cut out and certain places on the product are rounded.

Corners. These are chisels that are used in flat-relief carving, for cutting triangular recesses and grooves.

Spoon incisors. They are used for volumetric cutting. These cutters are distinguished by the fact that they can cut wood both along and across the grain.

Double-sided T-cutter. It is used to process large-sized products.

The mistake of most novice woodworkers is that they strive to purchase absolutely all the wood carving tools. Although it may be quite sufficient to purchase a set of wood turning tools of 6-8 pieces.

It is recommended to reverse special attention for wood cutters for manual works of the German company Kirschen.

Chisels and other cutters of this company are made of specially developed carbon steel. Hardening of blades is carried out using a special immersion method, which results in the fact that the sharpening angle of chisels is maintained for a particularly long time. The handles for chisels have a strike button and are reinforced with metal rings.

If you are seriously going to engage in wood carving, then you should pay special attention to the tool. For professional wood turning, having quality wood cutters is of utmost importance. They must be made of high-quality steel, wear-resistant, durable and comfortable.

Even in ancient times, the profession of cabinetmaker was highly valued. Nowadays, specialists who are able to create beautiful carvings made of wood is also of special importance, because for them this activity is not only an opportunity to provide themselves with a good income, but also a chance to get pleasure from such work. However, in order for the work of creating wood products to actually bring pleasure, you need to take care of having a special tool.

IN modern conditions a cabinetmaker must have in his arsenal a certain set of devices that will help him perform the following types of work:

• thread;
• sawing off;
• splitting and trimming;
• planing;
• turning;
• chiselling.

It is important to understand how wood processing work is carried out. You can learn about this from the following material, which describes the relevant tools.

Woodworking tools

Generally speaking, the devices available today that allow you to work with wooden surfaces are combined into general group, called incisors. This list usually includes cutting blades, saws, axes, chisels, special planes, etc. The peculiarity of any of these tools is its purpose: they are all designed to perform special type processing wooden product.

When deciding on a tool for work, a cabinetmaker proceeds primarily from his needs and tastes. If a person is just taking his first steps in this business and getting acquainted with the basics of wood processing, then he will benefit from the recommendations of experienced craftsmen.

Wood cutting tools

When starting to create a wooden product, the first thing you need to do is cut out the blank. Here you have to use cutters that look like sharp blades, when used to process wood, waste appears in the form of shavings or sawdust. If work with wooden surfaces is carried out manually, then most often craftsmen opt for tools such as saws, jointers, one-handed planes etc.

The peculiarity of these tools is that with their help you can do the work “on your own”. In other words, when using them, the master’s hand moves in the direction opposite to the body.

At the same time, in the majority foreign countries The most widely used method is the “pull” method, in which the main movements are carried out towards the master’s body. Most often, when performing wood processing according to this scheme, tools with the appropriate design are used. These can be specially made hacksaws, saws, etc. These can be considered double-sided cutters, two-handed plows and spoon cutters.

Features of work

At the same time, it is necessary to mention important rule which every cabinet maker observes: if you have to deal with wooden surface, characterized by a significant area, then for work use the “on your own” method. This allows you to spend less effort moving the tools you use - an ax, saw or plane. But it is undesirable to use an adze for this purpose, which is intended for the “pull” method.

How to cut blanks

When faced with the task of sawing wood, craftsmen most often resort to the help of multi-cutting devices, which have a special name - saws. Within these tools, several types can be distinguished:

• longitudinal;
• transverse;
• universal.

For example, if we talk about saws that are designed for cross cutting, then their design includes sharp triangular teeth, and they all have two edges for right and left threads. A feature of saws designed for rip sawing, is the presence of teeth made in the form of a chisel. Using this shape makes it possible to hold sawdust between the teeth, removing them from the body of the wood.

As for universal-purpose saws, their teeth made in the form right angle . Due to their structure, they can cut fibers in any direction - transverse, longitudinal, oblique.

Types of saws

All saws offered today can be classified into several types:

• simple;
• hacksaws;
• one-handed.

Within the framework of mechanical saws, several subtypes can be distinguished:

• tape;
• two-handed;
• gasoline engines;
• circular

Most often, cross-cut saws are used when cutting out workpieces. If there is a need for cutting, then the choice is stopped on one-handed or two-handed instruments. Compass or bow-type hacksaws are usually used for processing. To perform rough processing of wood, preference is given to saws with large cutters. To perform precise machining with the highest quality, it is effective to use tools equipped with fine teeth.

Splitting and planing of wood

If a cabinetmaker is faced with the task of creating blanks from bars, logs or trunks, then it is best to use the following types of wood cutters:

• axes;
• cleavers.

The cleaver represents massive ax, with the help of which it is possible to effectively cut the ridge. Often, a cleaver is used in combination with steel or wooden wedges; the latter are driven into the base of the tree, thereby simplifying the procedure for splitting it. The processed workpieces are hewn, for which household light axes are used. They are attractive because they can be attached to a belt in special cases.

If it is necessary to trim the surface of a wooden workpiece, then you have to resort to the help of an adze, which is a type of ax with a blade located at right angles to the ax handle. Using this cutter it is quite effective to create concave or figured products. In some cases, you can make an adze yourself, for which a thick metal plate is used, which must have a sharply sharpened and curved edge.

Planing of straight and curved surfaces

The planing procedure is usually understood as the removal from the surface of wood. thin layers shavings. To cope with this task with minimal costs physical effort, it is recommended to use hand or turning tools of the following types:

• knives;
• two-handed plows equipped with straight or semicircular blades;
• planes;
• Sherhebeli.

When performing finishing planing, special planes are most often used, equipped with a single or double blade, which is fixed in a metal or wooden body.

Removable chips may have different thickness. The determining role here is played by the distance to which the blade or body is extended. By decreasing this distance, thinner wood chips can be obtained.

If the task is to create curved or rounded elements, say, rivets for a barrel, then they usually give preference to special planes, whose configuration resembles a convex knife. If you have to deal with workpieces that are curved across the plane, then the choice is on humpback planes. A special type is formed by planes designed to create edges and narrow grooves when processing panels or boards.

Types and purposes of chisels

Craftsmen who engage in wood processing at a professional level most often use tools such as chisels. Typically, wood cutting is performed using devices that have type of metal rods, which are distinguished by the presence of a flat surface, a sharp cutting blade and a shank. The last element is located on a wooden handle with a ring.

Each type of chisel is designed to perform a different task. For example, with the help of straight and wide devices, it is effective to clean or cut convex or even workpieces. It makes sense to resort to narrow tools when the task of wood processing arises. narrow areas details. As for straight chisels equipped with round blades, they should be used in situations where you have to deal with hardwood or horny knots.

If there is a need to clean wood that has hollow or deep cavity, usually resort to using a chisel-chisel equipped with a thick steel rod. In addition, this operation should be performed in combination with a tool such as a mallet. It will be used to drive the chisel deep into the wood.

Although with the help of chisels it is possible to quite effectively remove unnecessary fractions from wood, these tools were originally created for cutting out complex products. If a craftsman has the task of creating gutters in the body of a workpiece, then to complete this work he will have to use cranberries. We are talking about chisels equipped with curved or grooved blades. With their help, it will be possible to make a recess of the required radius and depth. At the first stage, you need to use the widest cranberries and create a hole. After this comes a sequence of smaller cranberries, then move on to using an even smaller one, etc.

Using special cutters

The tools described above are not the only ones that should be present in the arsenal of a wood carver. Often, a cabinetmaker is faced with the task of volumetric cutting, which must be performed when creating works of art. In such situations, you cannot do without spoon incisors.

It is worth noting that these devices were created a hundred years ago. Working with these devices involves using the “pull” method, and the tool can be moved both longitudinally and transversely relative to the fibers.

But not only the spoon device is a common tool for carving masters. It is often necessary to use a double-sided cutter, "T" shaped. Most often, it is used to process workpieces when creating large-sized products. The main purpose of spoon-type cutters is to cut out wooden circles, which will later serve as the basis for creating plates, as well as other utensils and other products.

Conclusion

Regardless of your experience in such a matter as wood carving, first of all you need to take care of having the required tool to perform this self made. That is why you should have hand carving cutters in your arsenal. It should be borne in mind that they differ in their design and purpose, so you should choose these devices based on the operations that you have to perform.

The operation of lathes is impossible without the use of cutting equipment. Most often, the equipment is equipped with cutters, which allow most processing operations to be performed. Among them are boring, grooving and threading, trimming, etc. A separate group cutting tool used for preliminary preparation wood. The operator eliminates excess weight of the workpiece, allowing it to be integrated into work area to perform more precise targeted operations. But in any case, the cutter for a wood lathe must have optimal sharpening. Special equipment helps to bring the characteristics of the equipment into the proper form, but first you should understand the design of the cutter itself.

How is the cutter constructed?

The base is a metal rod, which can be divided into two parts: the working head and the shank. The cutting part has the shape of a triangle with rear and front auxiliary surfaces along which chips flow during the cutting process. Processing is performed with the main cutting edge, which craftsmen call the apex. This is the intersection of the secondary and main edges.

As for sharpening, the condition of this particular part matters. The top may be rounded or sharp. The tool also has different formats. Usually the size of the holder is taken into account - on average from 8 to 25 mm. For universal works it is better to purchase a set of wood cutters for lathe, which includes more than 10 copies. The standard kit includes cutters with different shapes, which allows you to make grooves, grooves, chamfer and perform shaped processing.

Types of turning tools

Also different types cutters for a wood lathe differ in design. The working part can be straight, bent, drawn or curved. The choice of one or another type of cutter is determined by the wood processing method, cutting characteristics and equipment. By the way, the parameters for integrating the equipment into the fastening zone also determine differences in the design of the shank. Modern machines focus on versatility, that is, the ability to work with rectangular, round or square holders. Moreover, in this aspect, differences between cutters for metal and wood are most often not made.

How do you make cutters with your own hands?

As you can see, the cutter is designed quite simply, and an ordinary lathe can easily be equipped with a homemade analogue. Typically, such products are created on the basis of files and rasps. Home craftsmen only remake them to fit a specific format turning equipment. You can also take as a basis car springs or lengths of reinforcing bar. But in such cases, more effort will be required when finalizing the shape of the element.

Next, homemade cutters for a wood lathe are carefully mechanically adjusted to the required size. This is the first sharpening during which the working edge will be formed. The disadvantage of a homemade cutter is that the workpiece may have internal defects resulting from previous use. The same file, after long-term use for its original purpose, due to stress in the structure, is often endowed with voids, which reduces its working life.

Why is cutter sharpening important?

The need to perform this operation, at first glance, is similar to sharpening kitchen knives. A sharp blade handles cutting tasks more efficiently, requiring less effort and time. But in the case of machine tool correction, there are other technological nuances. High-quality sharpening is preventive measure, which eliminates the risk of the working head falling off during operation.

In addition, negative deformation phenomena in the form of chipping and scuffing are prevented. Obviously, the quality of the work itself on a wood lathe also improves. Incisors that received correct sharpening, form even grooves and grooves, not to mention shaped operations. Other factors affect the quality of work, but the sharpness of the tool tip is key to achieving optimal results.

Sharpening equipment

Since the cutter is made on the basis of tool steel, its sharpening must be carried out on high-power equipment. For such needs, boring machines are used in different configurations. The basic structure of the design includes two base clamps and a retractable hand rest with a V-shaped stop. As an addition, adjustable hand rests can be used to expand the possibilities for securing the workpiece.

For example, if it is necessary to modify a bevel cutter for a wood lathe, then an appropriately shaped attachment may be required. In this case, an adjustable hand rest will help. But most often, universal holder models are used, designed for a wide range of standard cutters. The fixing base is usually attached under the elements that perform sharpening. The relative position of the functional sides in this part is determined by the sharpening parameters. Modern models sharpening machines also allow you to service scraper blades, planer and chisel equipment.

Sharpening with abrasive wheels

A sharpening machine is only a technical basis for organizing the mechanical interaction between the tool being processed and the abrasive. Sharpening is carried out with discs made of electrocorundum when they rotate at a frequency of about 3000 rpm. The abrasive can be made from other materials of varying degrees of hardness, but in any case it must prevent overheating of the cutting edge.

For example, in some cases, low-frequency sharpening at 2000 rpm using a 20 cm aluminum oxide wheel is recommended. This results in a kind of “soft” sharpening effect, which is beneficial if you are using a medium-format or low-power wood lathe. How to sharpen a cutter with an abrasive disc? Experienced craftsmen It is recommended to sharpen with slight pressure of the tool against the rotating disk. At the same time, uniformity must be ensured, which is achieved by moving the blade from side to side. If you use a machine with a retractable tool rest, then it is important to ensure that the contact patch between the abrasive and the cutter is located higher than the axis of rotation of the wheel.

Finishing the characteristics of the cutter

This is a more precise operation performed on machines with diamond wheels. This method sharpening is more often used when it is necessary to remove obvious defects. For example, if a wood lathe cutter has burrs, cracks or nicks. In this case, the working process is carried out under mechanical control. That is, the tool being processed is fixed in a vice and controlled by a hydraulic or electric drive. The operator adjusts the cutter displacement parameters in accordance with the requirements for its correction parameters.

Even before starting sharpening, the condition of the machine and the grinding wheel should be carefully checked. When working manually, the cutter must be supported supporting part, rather than holding it suspended. As a rule, the tool rest itself is installed 3-5 mm from the abrasive disc. To eliminate the risk of critical overheating, sharpening of cutters for a wood lathe is carried out with periodic cooling with water. This also avoids the formation of small cracks that occur under extremely high thermal loads.

Conclusion

The sharpening schedule is determined by the operating conditions of the tool. IN mandatory this operation performed after manufacturing or radical correction of the shape of the working head. Each wood lathe cutter has its own master template. This is a sample by which the quality of sharpening is assessed. The master checks the correctness of the formed corners and surfaces. Also on modern production lines there are points with electronic tool monitoring that analyze the characteristics of the used cutting parts in automatic mode.

Hello to all lovers of homemade products, every specialist knows well that the tool plays a big role in the work, namely its reliability and build quality. Thinking about this topic, thoughts arise to make the perfect handy tool with your own hands, in in this case These are wood cutters, and cutting out patterns with their help is quite an exciting activity, which is good news. The main thing in creating cutters is to be more careful, since you will have to work with sharp objects, namely the cutting part. The author’s idea to make wood cutters with his own hands was accompanied by the fact that there was no such tool in the vicinity, and there weren’t any in local stores either.

Properties that should be good knife for wood carving the following:
High-quality steel that increases the service life of knives and maintains their sharpness for a long time.
Ergonomic (comfortable) handles.
Relative ease of manufacture.
Reliability.

To create this homemade product, you don’t need any hard-to-find materials; they shouldn’t be here, since it was planned in advance that all the details would be easily accessible to most carpenters and woodworking enthusiasts.

Required materials and tools:
* Pieces band saw, made of durable steel, which from experience confirms their long-term sharpness retention.
* Leftovers oak boards, left over from past work, since oak itself is durable, beautiful and technologically advanced material in its own way.
Tools you will need:
* Electric sharpener.
* Belt sander with a grit of about 40, as well as sanding paper (grit 80, and for finishing - 240, 800 and 1000).
* Hacksaw.
* Respiratory protection - respirator (gauze mask).
* Wood glue.

That's all the details with the right tools ready, now let's start the step-by-step assembly.

Step one.
The first step is to make a blade. From pieces of saw blade about 8 cm long, the author turned metal blade blanks of the desired shape, and provided the blanks with shanks, their length is about 4.5-5 cm, these dimensions guarantee sufficient strength for fastening the blade in the handle.

For greater reliability of fixation (protection from loosening and the knife falling out of the handle), I made semicircular cutouts on the sides of the shank.
The cross-section of the knife blade has a wedge narrowing, the angle of which ranges from 10 to 15 degrees from the butt to the cutting edge, which is the descent of the blade. Well cutting edge it is given this shape by a small chamfer, that is, a large narrowing, and therefore an angle already at 25-30 degrees close to the blade blade.

A large chamfer on knives must be made even before the moment when the shank is not glued into the handle. The chamfer shape must be given on both sides, while maintaining a certain angle, and the grinding of the metal must occur symmetrically. It is known from materials science that during intensive grinding the metal heats up, which causes it to temper, and this leads to the fact that the metal becomes softer and loses the ability to maintain an edge. To prevent this from happening, the workpiece to be turned must be periodically cooled in water, thereby avoiding overheating. It is most convenient when the container is cold water is nearby and lowering the workpiece is not difficult. To finally shape the blade, as well as sharpen and polish it, you need to install the handle, which is what will happen next.

Step two.
After much work with metal, we move on to making the handle; oak bars are well suited for this, the dimensions of which were 12 by 22 mm in cross-section, and the length was slightly more than 120 mm. These bars were selected so that the surfaces to be glued were smooth. To simplify the work, we make a selection of a socket for the shank in one of the halves of the future handle.

First, the shank is processed using a grinder along the edges in order to get rid of burrs. Then, placing the shank on the prepared block, we outline it with a pencil. Using chisels, we select a socket to a depth that is equal to the thickness of the workpiece, periodically assembling the structure assembly dry to check the fit of the bars to each other. If the depth of the socket is insufficient, the handle will either not stick together or, if the connection is poor, it will simply crack during use. Also, a socket that is too deep will cause the blade to move from side to side, which leads to undesirable consequences, namely cracking of the handle or deformation of the shank. Therefore, be as precise as possible when selecting the socket for the shank.

After you have made sure during the dry control assembly that all the parts fit tightly, in this case the shank, and also that there are no gaps between the bars-halves of the handle, then you can start gluing. We apply carpenter's glue to the surface of the block and into the socket under the shank, since it is impossible to achieve accuracy in depth when manually selecting a socket, then just in case it is better to fill it with glue, after which dries the shank will be held in place due to its hardness, in case of inaccuracy. You also need to apply glue to the adjacent part of the handle, but in a smaller layer.

Step three.
Then we combine the parts (you need to connect the ends of the blocks located closer to the blade as accurately as possible), and tighten them with clamps. Remove excess glue with a damp cloth and leave for 12 hours until completely dry.

Step four.
Now let's adjust the handle to suitable form for a cutting tool, usually this is a small bend on the back for support thumb.

But you can’t do without the features of these pens; they differ in that
their back part is wider and rounded than the one closer to the blade, because of this, all blanks for handles in the first stage of processing look more like a truncated elongated pyramid, and there is also a recess for the index finger.

After gluing the workpiece, the back part is sawed off with a hacksaw to a size of 12 cm.
Then tape grinder grind the ends of the handles, do not forget to use the products personal protection- safety glasses and a respirator, since oak dust can cause allergies.

Sanding is started with 40 grit, and then in increasing order until the workpiece is smooth.
Cover with nitro varnish.

Step four.
We are finishing the cutting part, we need a small chamfer, the sharpening angle of which for these knives is approximately 25-30°. To form a small chamfer the author uses sandpaper of different grits, gradually increasing the grit, starting from 240, moving to 800, and then to 1000, finally everything is polished on a leather belt clamped on a block. If sharpening is successful, then the wood should be cut both along and across the grain without applying special effort, and the cut surface should be smooth and shiny, the so-called “oil” cut.
Several knives were made using this manufacturing template; in general, they are quite reliable and easy to use, which is quite decent for a non-professional.

Wood turning tools are intended for manual processing of a part rotating in a machine.

They consist of two main parts: a working part (metal) and a handle (usually wooden).

In turn, the working part can be divided into:

• cutting (blade) - this is the part that is sharpened and interacts with the workpiece;
• body - the main part by which the turner holds the cutter with his “non-working” hand on the armrest of the machine;
• shank - a narrowed part into which the body smoothly passes. The shank is designed for attaching a handle to it.

The handle can be divided into two parts:

• the base is the large part that the turner holds in his “working” hand;
• neck - a small cylindrical part with a metal fastening ring that prevents the handle from cracking when it is pressed onto the shank of the working part.

Types of turning tools

Depending on the type of work performed, wood turning tools have different configuration, the more complex the product, the more sophisticated their design will be, which will determine the specific sharpening of the blade. Each master can have his own special, exclusive, highly specialized turning tools designed to perform some special work. Therefore, there is no need to study the design of each individual cutter.

For the successful work of a novice turner, two types will be enough: reyer and meisel.

Reyer - designed for rough, roughing, initial processing of the workpiece. Design feature This type of blade is shaped like a semicircle. It is made from a thick plate or from a semicircular groove. Using Reyer wooden blank give approximate outlines of the future product.

Meisel - for finishing the workpiece, giving it its final shape. Also, it can be used to cut off the product from the remains of the workpiece. The shape of a meisel resembles a jamb knife (a plate with an oblique blade, sharpened on both sides at the same angle).

With the help of a reyer and a meisel, you can easily perform turning work of medium complexity. Processing the workpiece on the outer surface. In some cases it is possible to work with internal surfaces details.

All other wood turning tools can be classified as shaped tools. Among them, the most popular types are:

• chisel-scraper - for leveling the cylindrical surface of the workpiece. The shape resembles a straight chisel with one-sided sharpening;
• comb - designed for carving and applying decorative grooves and marks;
• hook - for turning cavities in the workpiece;
• ring - has the same purpose as the hook;
• for rough processing - has a blade shape in the form of a triangle. Designed to give the workpiece cylindrical. This type is the safest of all others due to the small contact area between the tool and the workpiece.

How to make wood turning tools yourself

Homemade wood turning tools are something of a talisman for craftsmen. Therefore, they prefer to make working tools with their own hands rather than purchase them in a regular store. Although those purchased fully meet their requirements, technical specifications and safe work practices.

Making reyer and meisel yourself is not difficult. To make them with your own hands, yourself suitable material there will be files and rasps that have already “outlived” their usefulness. This decommissioned tool has the required dimensions, strength, material quality, and steel grade. By using sharpening machine the file is given the required shape in terms of the blade and shank. Then a machined handle with a fastening ring is stuffed. And that’s it, the tool for making wood turning products is ready.

To make wood turning tools, you can use, in addition to files and rasps, car springs or reinforcement bars as materials. They have the necessary hardness. But after making the tool with your own hands, you need to be extremely careful. Its tests must be carried out on soft wood (linden, poplar), after which the blade must be inspected for chips and cracks. And only after such a check can turning tools made by yourself be used when working with harder wood (birch, oak, beech).

Video about homemade cutters

At self-production cutting tool you need to remember:

• The shorter the working part, the more difficult and inconvenient it is to hold it while turning. The length of the body should provide full grip with the hand, plus support on the armrest, plus the distance from the armrest to the workpiece, plus margin for wear and sharpening. Therefore, the initial length of the working part should be at least 20 cm, but a size exceeding 40 cm will cause inconvenience in work. The optimal length should be 20 – 30 cm;
• The shorter the shank, the greater the possibility that it can be torn out of the handle. Therefore, when a cutting tool is made from files or rasps, the shanks are lengthened by 1.5 - 2 times;
• The thinner and narrower the working part of the tool, the greater the likelihood of it being damaged by the workpiece during the turning process. Therefore, during the initial stages of processing, when the workpiece does not yet have an absolute cylindrical shape and runout on the blade occurs, as well as when large diameters, when the cutting force is great value, it is necessary to use cutters with sufficient thickness.
• wood turning tools must have a handle no shorter than 25 cm. If it is much smaller, then during the turning process it will be difficult to hold the tool in your hands, not to mention the quality of the work performed.

Do-it-yourself sharpening of cutters

The quality of the treated surface largely depends on the correct sharpening of the working tool.

To do this, you will need an electric sharpening machine with a set of wheels of different grain sizes and a velvet bar for manually editing the blade.

Video of sharpening cutters

Each craftsman chooses the sharpening angle independently, focusing on his skill as a turner, the hardness of the wood, the quality of the working tool and the final desired appearance of the surface being processed.

For the beginner turner optimal options sharpening angles will be:

• for meisel - the bevel itself should be 40° relative to the axis of the working surface and 40° for each side of the blade;
• for reyer – 50° – 60°.

Over time, as the turner's skill level increases, sharpening angles can be reduced to 20° - 35°.

Ideally, in addition to a set of different styles, it is desirable to have cutters of the same type, the same size, but with different sharpening angles. This will make the turner’s work much faster and easier, and will also extend their service life, because there will be no need to constantly resharpen the blades based on the type of wood being processed.

More obtuse angles sharpening are intended for: hard rocks wood, initial (rough) processing.

More sharp corners cutting tools allow for better surface treatment and speed up the turning process, but at the same time there is a high probability of chipping the workpiece and damaging the blade. And such a tool has to be sharpened and adjusted much more often than with more obtuse angles.

The approximate sharpening angle of the blade is formed at the stage of making cutters with your own hands, before starting heat treatment- hardening.

Then, when they are completely ready, the sharpening process is carried out using an abrasive wheel and is completed by hand finishing on a velvet block.