How to assemble a cover from a chainsaw spring. Do-it-yourself chainsaw repair - save on service maintenance

Do-it-yourself high-quality chainsaw starter repair

Common faults
Starter repair work
Practical Tips

A chainsaw is the main tool with which you can stock up on firewood for a bathhouse or a fireplace, you can also use it when building work in a summer cottage or in a personal home. Subject to all the operating criteria and the implementation of preventive measures that are provided by the manufacturer, the chainsaw can last a long time. Chainsaw repair partner 350 how to insert a spring into the starter. But after a while, small malfunctions may appear that can be dealt with on their own. How to wind a starter spring chainsaw starter repair (broken spring) 2 y. Back. Chainsaw starter repair how to repair pull the starter cord 4-5 times. For example, repairing a chainsaw starter with your own hands is completely within your power, subject to the sequence of operations.

Chainsaw starter device: 1 - starter screw, 2 - bushing, 3 - easy start spring, 4 - screw, 5, 6 - starter coil, 7 - deflector, 8 - starter cover, 9 - handle and cord, 10 - screw.

Typical malfunctions

The most common tool failures include the following:

obstacles in the ignition system;
stopping the chainsaw in the process of cutting;
loss of power during operation;
wear of some structural parts of the chainsaw (brake band, drive sprockets, anti-vibration parts);
obstacles in the fuel supply system;
starter related problems.

In addition, it is necessary to create a visual inspection of the chainsaw before performing work and preventive measures. A simple chainsaw starter repair is how to insert a spring into if the starter is broken. These include chain lubrication, fuel mixture control, and the presence of the required amount of oil.

The spark plug is turned out to check its condition.

Any of the defects is eliminated by our own technology. So, for example, the repair of the fuel system of a chainsaw should begin with an inspection of the corresponding filter. After that, the correctness of the carburetor regulation, which is carried out with the help of screws, is inspected. The gaps must be set in strict accordance with the manufacturer's annotation, which must be included with the chainsaw. The repair of the ignition system includes inspections of candles. If a strong deposit is detected, the gap changes or other visible damage is detected, this element must be replaced.

Starter repair work

Chainsaw starter repair!!! With my own hands!!!

How to do it yourself starter on the chainsaw? How to bend spring on the starter chainsaws? How to wind spring.

Chainsaw Repair: Starter Spring Replacement

Repair chainsaw do-it-yourself replacement springs manual starter.

a set of screwdrivers or a special tool that is supplied by the manufacturer with the tool;
a rope that will be used as a replacement for a broken cord if necessary.

A large amount of black soot on the spark plug indicates a malfunction in the engine.

Before proceeding directly to repairing the starter and finding out the causes of malfunctions, it is necessary to remove it from the tool body. Chainsaw repair partner 350 video how to insert a spring into a chainsaw starter how. To do this, unscrew a few screws holding the side cover to which the starter is attached. This is done with a screwdriver or a specialized tool.

After the lid is unscrewed, it is turned over and inspected. Quality chainsaw starter repair how to bend the spring to install on. Next, unscrew the screw with which the starter is fixed. After that, the clamp and spring are dismantled for a smooth start. Now the pulley on which the cord is wound is available for removal. After the knot on the rope is untied, it can be pulled out from the pulley and replaced with a new one. Repair of a chainsaw partner 350 starter repair of lawn mowers, how to insert a spring into the starter. Provided that the loss of starter performance is associated with a break, this may be enough to eliminate the breakdown. However, the remaining parts that make up this element of the chainsaw should be carefully examined.

When inspecting the components of the starter, the following malfunctions can be detected:

Components

As you can see in the photo, the starter consists of the following elements:

screws;
Sleeve;
Start spring;
Coil;
Deflector;
Lid;
Handle, cord.

Most common damage

Most often you can find such malfunctions:

Failure of the ignition system;
Sudden stop of the saw;
Power reduction;
Depreciation of chainsaw systems and mechanisms;
Malfunctions of the fuel supply system;
Faulty starter.

To avoid malfunctions, it is necessary to check the condition of the saw every time before starting work. Fuel level, oil presence, chain lubrication should be monitored. It is easier to prevent problems due to the timely preventive examination than to fix them later.

The failure of each system is eliminated by different methods. Some damage can be fixed by hand. For example, if there is a problem with the fuel supply system, the first thing to check is the filter. Then you need to see if the carburetor is adjusted correctly. All gaps must be adjusted in full accordance with the instructions that come with the saw. You should also check the condition of the candles. In the presence of visible damage, a large layer of carbon deposits, displacement and other changes, it is necessary to replace damaged and faulty elements.

Repair

If there is a problem with the starter, the chainsaw will not be able to start after the cord is pulled. The tool will not start. The main reasons for saw failure can be:

Cracks or breakage of the pulley;
Spring damage;
Launch cable break.

To carry out inspection and repair, the following tools and parts are required:

Necessary screwdrivers, or a handle with interchangeable nozzles that are suitable for this work;
Replaceable elements to replace faulty ones if necessary (for example, a replaceable cord).

To inspect and repair the starter, you must first remove it from the housing. This can be done by unscrewing the screws that hold the side cover with the starter with a screwdriver or other special tool. Next, you need to remove the cover and inspect the mechanism. The screw that attaches the mechanism to the chainsaw cover should be unscrewed, and then remove the clamp and start spring. This will open access to the pulley with the wound cord. If the cord is damaged, it must be replaced with a new one. If the breakdown was to break the cord, these actions will bring the saw to working condition. All other elements of the mechanism should be carefully inspected for damage.

Sometimes on examination, you can notice other damage, namely:

Pulley damage. This includes splits, tears, and other breakages that prevent the tool from working properly;
Chainsaw start spring failure. This includes malfunctions of the spring, defects in the attachment point. The place where the spring is inserted into the fastener is considered the most problematic part of the fastener.

If defects or weaknesses are found during the inspection, it is necessary to replace the damaged parts. You need to make sure that the parts match the saw model, otherwise you can get an even bigger problem.

Having completed the repair and replacement of parts with your own hands, you need to assemble the mechanism correctly, in reverse order. The pulley must be mounted on top of the trigger spring and be firmly engaged with it. The pulley is wrapped with a cord threaded through a hole in the cover so that when it starts and rotates, it pulls the cord into the mechanism. To get the desired cord tension, 4 turns should be done - this is enough. You can get acquainted with the starter repair technology by watching the video.

Additional steps may be required to fix the problem yourself. For example, if you cannot match the cord holes in the pulley and the housing cover the first time, you should make a few additional turns.

After the mechanism is repaired and installed in place, you can start running. All repairs do not have to be done at home. If you do not have enough experience and free time, you can contact the service center.

Timely preventive maintenance will help to avoid sudden breakdowns. If you approach the work with a chainsaw responsibly, monitor its technical condition, monitor the quality of the fuel, you can extend the life of the tool.

Today we will look at the problems with chainsaw starter malfunctions and we will remove them. This type of breakdown is not uncommon during intensive use of a gasoline-powered saw. And in our case, in logging, this happens systematically.

I happened to repair starters from the Ural chainsaw, with which we felled the forest while working in the forestry. I was still very young and dealt with the design for the first time, myself. The malfunction arose due to the breaking of the “tongue” of the spring, which is fixed in the drum (case). I remember how I was covered in graphite grease (hands and face) trying to tame the “snake” (metal tape), which “fell apart” into rings and did not want to gather in the bay))). I think whoever assembled (twisted) the spring remembers , as cramps palms from the constant resistance of the spring. The repair was also aggravated by a metal cable. Nevertheless, I successfully coped with the task, although it took me a lot of time and nerves. On chainsaws of world brands, the design is not so complicated and capricious.

So, the chainsaw starter is designed to start the tool. On gearless saws, it is located in the side cover on the flywheel side (left side of the tool). This is a purely mechanical principle of operation. But in order to competently and efficiently repair the starter, it is necessary to understand the principle of its functionality (work). I suggest that you carefully consider this issue.

On top of the cover (case) of the starter, there is a handle in a special seat of the cover. The handle is connected to a cord, which in turn is wound around a pulley and the end of the cord is fixed to the pulley. When the operator (chainsaw user) pulls the handle up with a jerk, the cord unwinds along the pulley (coil), bringing it to a "centrifugal" state. The pulley has in its design (on the back) a ratchet - this is a gear with teeth rounded to one side. The teeth of the gear (ratchet) mesh with the "dogs" that are located on the drum (flywheel) of the crankshaft. The crankshaft rotates, the fuel is compressed under the pressure of the piston and the “engine” head. The operator, meanwhile, lowers the handle, the return spring, which is fastened to the coil (pulley), winds the cord to its original state (on the coil). The teeth of the ratchet, meanwhile, slip along the "dogs" of the flywheel, excluding contact with them, since they already rotate in the opposite direction. I remind you that the ratchet teeth are rounded in one direction - it is this principle that allows engagement with the crankshaft splines. Rotating in the opposite direction, engagement with the "dogs" is excluded.

But, as lumberjacks know, a pulley comes with a ratchet without characteristic teeth - gears. These are classic pro chainsaws, the ratchet of which is either a steel "cup" of small diameter with side cutouts (protrusions), or plastic counterparts (grabs). For example, on Calm 361, the ratchet has dog grips. It is these "cutouts", "captures" or "dogs" that engage with the splines - "dogs" on the shaft. The principle of operation of splines-"dogs", I think, is clear - when the shaft accelerates in rotation, the "dogs" slip along the ratchet.

Let's take a look at the general circuit of the starter.

In addition, the starter comes with a damper spring, the so-called " easy start» smart start. On a chainsaw model with an “easy start”, the letter “ e » (e.g. Husqvarna 340 e ). However, there are models of professional chainsaws without the letter “e”, since they have no analogues without the Smart Start system. The starter cover, with the presence of a damper spring, looks more convex. By the way, damper springs break quite often than the main spring.

While working on a shift, we encountered a similar problem - on a Husqvarna 340 lopper e the spring burst (there is no damper spring on the analogue Husqvarna 340). And on the watch, every hour of road operation, they worked according to the 10 × 4 scheme. It was not possible to replace and repair the damage. I had to use a “horned” chainsaw and a crosscutter to periodically saw off the branches so that there was no downtime for the tractor driver. The bough cutter had to take an axe. The next day we replaced the starter - we put on a cover from a similar chainsaw (I don’t remember the model, but not the Husqvarna 340), which had a design without a damper spring. Of course, the lid did not fit completely, there was a gap on top, but the seat fit. However, this was the only solution to the problem, there were no specialized stores in that outback, except for the Selpovsk grocery store ...

Symptoms

So, you have a chainsaw starter “covered up”. If the cord simply breaks, then the malfunction is “obvious” and it should be replaced. Other typical signs of a starter failure are as follows:

the shaft does not seize (the winding cord scrolls freely);
after a jerk of the winding, the cord does not wind up;
starter jammed

Chainsaw starter repair

The first step is to wrap and remove the cover, make a visual inspection. The breakdown of the chainsaw starter can be different - a broken spring, a pulley (“coil”) defect, a worn winding cord.

Next, we prepare the tools for repair - these are screwdrivers and round-nose pliers. In the event of a break, you will need a new cord. I think that lumberjacks have a starter cord in stock. If it is not possible to purchase a factory cord, then you can replace the “pulled” with a clothesline, choosing the appropriate diameter.

In the event of a cord break

We unscrew the starter mounting screw, remove the clamp and damper spring, if any, on your brand of chainsaw. We dismantle the pulley with the cord, untie or cut off the knot of the cord, remove it. Since the cord is torn, the spring is discharged, and, in principle, you can not be afraid of the spring falling out of the cover.

Loosen the starter mounting screws.

Removing the starter cover

The cord is torn, the spring is discharged, you can not be afraid of the spring falling out of the cover during disassembly.

We dismantle the torn cord from the pulley

We remove a fragment of a torn cord from the handle

We take a new cord, select the appropriate length (focusing on the length of the old broken cord), divide, melt the ends of the cord so that they do not “discharge”. We put a new cord into the coil, tie a fixing knot and “hide” it in the pulley for the cord to move freely along the coil stream (on some models of chainsaws, the cord is tied around the ratchet - as provided by the design). We pass the free end of the cord through the hole in the starter cover and put it into the handle. We fix the cord in the handle with a knot. We wind the cord on the coil (pulley) in the appropriate direction. We place the pulley in the starter cover on top of the return spring (and on top of the damper spring, if any) and make sure that the spring is engaged with the coil - we slightly turn the coil in the appropriate direction. We fix the pulley with the fixing screw.

We measure the new cord by the length of the damaged cord

We melt the end of the cord before threading it into the pulley so that they do not “discharge”.

We put the melted end of the cord into the technological hole through the pulley

We put a new cord into the coil ...

Tie a knot at the end of the starter cord with round nose pliers.

We “hide” the tied fixing knot in the pulley for the smooth running of the cord along the coil stream

We pass the free end of the cord through the hole in the starter cover and put it into the handle.

We put the free end of the cord into the handle.

We tie a knot at the end of the cord in the handle for fixation

We melt the loose knot of the starter cord in the handle

Next, you need to charge (cock) the spring. To do this, pry off the free part of the cord with a screwdriver and pull it out. We grab the cord with our hand, place it in the technological half-hole, which is located at the edge of the coil. We make several turns by turning the coil (pulley) by the cord in the direction of tension.

We pry the starter cord with fingers or a screwdriver, pull it off and wind it on the coil ...

How many turns to make?

We wind the cord on the pulley in the direction of tension

We make several turns of the cord on the pulley for an acceptable tension

Too little tension will "break" the edge of the pulley housing, and too much tension will adversely affect the return spring. Choose your tension.

We check the tension of the cord in the starter by pulling it up by the handle

Reinstall the starter cover and secure with screws.

When the spring is charged, the starter is installed in place - the cover is screwed to the chainsaw. During screwing, the mounting screws are slightly tightened, and the starter must be turned to fully seat and engage the pulley with the flywheel "dogs".

If the shaft does not seize

When you try to start the chainsaw, the jerk of the cord is “idle”, i.e. there is no engagement with the shaft. The operator jerks the starter to no avail, the cord unwinds along the pulley without resistance and rewinds. What is the reason?

The fault lies in a broken damper spring (" easy start», « soft start mechanism"). If you remove the starter cover, then a breakdown is detected without difficulty, since most often the spring bursts closer to the cover. However, it is not the damper spring itself that may break, but its mounting location.

If the spring has burst, then only replacing it with a new one will help to eliminate the malfunction. That is why I am not a fan of chainsaws with a soft start system. Of course, I don’t impose my tastes and opinions on any of my colleagues - everyone has the right to decide their own preferences in this choice of chainsaw model.

Another reason for the lack of reliable engagement with the shaft may be a defect in the ratchet. This is a model of ratchets with a plastic gear, when the teeth for engagement are cracked and chipped. In this case, it is also necessary to replace this node - that is, the ratchet mechanism. And it is better to have a chainsaw model with a steel ratchet.

By the way, the "dogs" on the flywheel shaft can also be covered - the springs that perform the return function will burst and, as a result, the clutch with the ratchet will disappear. A similar malfunction in my personal practice also occurred. The springs of the "dogs" were made from fragments of the cable (from the cores). But it cost incredible patience, time and focus. I am sure that you should not pervert like that and work out with another chainsaw.

Another reason when the shaft does not seize is the banal mistake of reassembling the starter - fixing it to the flywheel. This picture is observed in inexperienced lumberjacks. The reason is the lack of engagement of the coil with the "dogs". The fact is that during the final screwing of the cover, the user of the chainsaw does not check the engagement by turning the starter and the ratchet lies on top of the “dogs”, and in this case there is no engagement. An inexperienced operator is perplexed and does not understand the cause of the malfunction. He disassembles and assembles again until he guesses (or until a more experienced colleague tells him) about the competent collection of the starter.

If the starter is stuck

The picture, when the starter is jammed, is as follows: the operator jerks the cord by the handle, and the cord either does not move at all (the pulley does not turn), or with great difficulty “passes a short distance” and finally stops. Of course, no return movements of the cord to its original position occur.

I am sure that a similar picture is familiar to most lumberjacks. The cause of the malfunction lies in the wear of the pulley, or to be more precise, in the support casing that holds the cord in the "stream" of the pulley. The cord goes beyond the edges of the housing, crawls out, it is rubbed between the edge of the casing and the pulley, and the cord loses its ability to roll back to its original position.

To continue working, you need to rewind the cord onto the pulley, “charge” the spring. To start the chainsaw, you need to “catch” the engagement by carefully pulling the cord up by the handle and only then pull. The cord must be in a taut position when pulled to prevent it from falling out of the reel body. This method will help only for a short time of using the tool, since the wear of the assembly is irremovable - it is necessary to promptly replace the starter coil with a new one.

You should pay attention to one important nuance: during the dismantling of the pulley, it is important that the return spring (if it is intact) does not fly out of the seat. Otherwise, you will get tired of collecting the spring in the bay and laying it in place. In order to avoid falling out of the return spring from the seat, it must first be discharged. This is done as follows: the cord (closer to the handle) is picked up with a screwdriver and placed in the technological half-hole of the pulley. Next, you need to pull out the cord and make several turns in the opposite direction of winding until the spring weakens. Another option for unloading the spring is to cut off the cord at the base of the handle, but by doing so you will sacrifice a small piece of the cord. When removing the pulley, make sure that there is no engagement of the spring with the pulley.

If the return spring is broken

The return spring serves to wind the cord onto the pulley and is located under the pulley. If it bursts, and this depends on the resource (as a rule) of using the tool, then there is only one way out in this situation - to replace the spring with a new one. You can, of course, pervert, and “blind” a short analogue from fragments, but this is only in the case when there really is an “edge” and it is necessary to finish the work in the cutting area. The end of the spring tape will need to be annealed to take the form of a fixation hook. Such forced absurdities happen, as a rule, on the watch and the “Russian peasant” has to “surprise the world” (or amuse) with his ingenuity. But in reality, to eradicate poverty in order to feed the family.

If the spring burst, then for replacement we remove and throw away its remnants. In its place, we install the bay of the new spring. We cover the spring with a protective cover.

The coil (pulley) is mounted on the spring (on top of it). After that, it is necessary to turn the pulley, making sure that the coil is engaged with the return spring. Then we proceed in the order indicated in the chapter. "In the event of a broken cord".

Write comments, supplement if I missed something, didn’t add it, or made a mistake somewhere. I will be glad to our discussion.

Almost all modern starters welcome the installation of a spring to start the generator in case of battery failure. Over time, the device may fail, and then you need to know how to fix the starter spring on the generator on your own.

Why do you need a manual starter

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An electric starter is provided as the main starter. However, do not forget that if the battery fails, it will not work to start the equipment using an electric starter. In this case, a manual option was provided as a fallback.

A striking example of the use of a manual starter is portable power plants. It is easier to use a manual starter on them, because it makes it possible to conveniently start the engine and operate the generator.

Spring Recoil Starter Malfunction

The dense hook starter spring is the main design element of the manual starter. In addition to the spring, the starter also includes the following components:

Ratchet;
Cord with coil;
Screw for fixing;
return spring;
Plastic fuselage ratchet.

Repair of the spring, the main component of the manual starter, comes down to replacing the element.

Here's how the replacement is done:

The pulley screw is unscrewed with a screwdriver;
Then the spring itself is removed.

On chainsaws, for example, it is an element in the form of a circle, inside of which a flexible spring is wound.

Springs in this form are sold in the hardware store. It remains only to buy a part and replace it.

Repair of a manual starter may also involve replacing the cord. If it is incorrectly wound on the spring pulley, then the generator will not start.

Here are a few rules for winding the cord:

Wind the cord from the end of the pulley (done to avoid scrolling);
The second end of the cord is passed into the hole in the lid;
The winding of the cord should continue until it stops, i.e., as far as the length of the rope is enough;
After winding, the cord is pulled out by 15-20 cm to check the rotation of the spring pulley;
After winding, you should also check how the spring works after being pulled out and released (if everything works well, it is recommended to wind the cord one more turn).

At portable power plants, repair of the spring and cord is carried out as follows:

On the side of the generator is a pulley circle, fixed with three screws that must be unscrewed;
Remove the pulley with the spring and the cord;
Check the condition of the cord, which can be completely removed from the side of the holder (the upper cap of the holder is removable).

Note. Often the knot of the cord that secures it from above weakens. To remedy the situation, you need to heat the end of the nylon rope with a lighter, and then wind a new knot.

As for the pulley with a spring, it changes in the same way as described above.

Operating rules

According to experts, a high probability of spoiling the spring appears when used improperly. To be able to competently work with a manual starter is worth a lot.

1	First you need to take the cord, carefully pass it through a small hole on the coil and tie a knot. But make sure the knot is strong enough that it doesn't come undone when you start the generator, because you'll have to start all over again.
2	Further, the manual starter spring must be installed in the housing, having previously hooked it in the groove. To make it easier to install, turn the part counterclockwise.
3	The next step is to install this spring in the groove of the coil, only after that you should put the drive ratchet on it.
4	For the drive ratchet, it is necessary to hook the hook of the return spring and fix it on the manual starter coil.
5	After that, put the spring, the body of the ratchet itself and do not forget to fasten everything with a locking screw.
6	When the whole mechanism is complicated, it remains only to stretch the free end of the cord through the holes in the back cover, and then in the starter handle. When you pass the rope, be sure to tie a strong knot. Then slightly pull the handle towards you to make sure that the mechanism and the ratchet itself are working or not.