Recently, oriented strand boards have been gaining popularity in construction. In Russian standards, this material is abbreviated as OSB, sometimes they are designated in English letters OSB (oriented strand boards) or Russian OSB. We have already reviewed the main characteristics, brands and areas of application of these products in the article . In this article we will talk about how to properly work with oriented strand boards.

What is important to understand when working with OSB

First of all, when working with it, it is important to understand the principle of manufacturing this material. Structurally, the slab consists of chips (chips) that are oriented in a certain direction. All scraps have their own clear direction, the chips in each subsequent layer are located perpendicular to the subsequent and previous ones. This is the key to the strength of OSB. Accordingly, depending on the direction, each oriented plate has a longitudinal and transverse axes. The longitudinal (major) axis has the highest bending strength, while the transverse (minor) axis can have two times lower values. For this reason, installation should be done so that the main load falls on the main axis.

Internal structure of the material

In addition to the strength characteristics and brand, it is important to pay attention to the quality of the particle material itself. According to GOST, wood chips have certain acceptable parameters; their length cannot be less than 5 cm, and their thickness cannot be less than 2 mm. If there are no large chips in the slab, but mostly dust or sawdust, then the actual structural properties of the material are reduced.

Acclimatization problems

Before use, it is necessary that they undergo acclimatization in the environment where they will be used in the future. This is due to the fact that wood material tends to change its volume depending on humidity and temperature. Structural changes OSB has more than plywood - depending on the brand, the material can swell from water by 15 - 25%.

Oriented- particle board divided into four brands. OSB-1 - material general purpose, designed for a humidity of no more than 65%, OSB-2 is used at a similar humidity level, but can withstand load-bearing loads, OSB-3 and OSB-4 are used in an environment with a humidity level of no more than 85%.

Acclimatization takes place within two days. The plates are installed in a vertical position, and slats are placed between the sheets to improve air circulation. According to GOST, it is recommended that the absolute humidity of products range from 2 to 12%. At the same time, in an unheated room, the humidity of the material can fluctuate at the level of 16 - 18%.

Particle boards must be protected from water even if OSB-3 and OSB-4 grades are used. Contact with liquid will cause deformation and swelling of the material. After installation, the slabs must be protected from moisture facing materials(lining, siding, etc.). It is not recommended to treat the chipped surface with products containing a high water content. When using material for external walls, they cover him protective film To prevent the slabs from becoming saturated with moisture from the ground, the sheets are laid on wooden pads. Also using wooden slats it is necessary to create an air space between the film and the OSB, again this is done for air circulation.

The ends are the most vulnerable areas of OSB; during the acclimatization process, when the environment changes from dry to wet, they can swell; in this case, they must be sanded before installation.

Cutting

Cut into sheets before installation different sizes. This can be done manually or electric tool. When working, it is important to eliminate vibrations of the slab, so it is securely secured with clamps. To cut along a straight line, use guides made from straight boards. When sawing, it is important to use a corner so that the cut always goes perpendicular to the edge of the sheet.

When marking, you need to take into account the thickness of the cut; all tools have their own thickness. Before starting work, it is recommended to carry out a rough cutting of an unnecessary piece of material. Oriented strand material should be sawed at a moderate speed, the forward movement should be done smoothly. Marking is done using a ruler and a construction marker. Due to the large dimensions of the sheets, they are installed on wooden stand, the option of cutting in a vertical position is also allowed. Let's look at the basic tools that can be used for cutting.

• - for sawing OSB, a tool with a fine tooth is used. For serious construction work, a hand saw is not suitable, since the cutting speed is limited by the physical effort of a person. Give up completely hand saw It’s also not worth it, it can play an auxiliary role when cutting small elements. Best for cutting OSB a hacksaw will do with small teeth.

• - the tool can be hand-held or table-top. When working with the latter, the user himself pushes the plate onto the rotating disk. For sawing OSB, discs with a large number of teeth and hard alloy tips are suitable. Some circular saws have a connection for connecting a vacuum cleaner, which collects sawdust left over from work.

• - easy to use sawing tool various materials. The cutting is carried out using movement hacksaw blade. Some devices have a pendulum cutting function, when the blade moves not only up and down, but also in the direction of the cut. Operating the device is simplified with keyless blade replacement. Adjusting the angle of the sole helps make complex cuts in an inclined plane. For cutting large slabs, a jigsaw is less effective than a circular saw. The main inconvenience is the difficulty of making an even cut.

Some manufacturers produce blades specifically for cutting wood panels.

Firmly - types of fasteners

Oriented strand board can be used in a variety of construction applications. Depending on the application, the fastening elements vary. Commonly used are nails, self-tapping screws, screws and staples.

• - fastener in the form of a rod, most often used for attaching OSB to an external frame (during construction frame house) and on the roof sheathing. In this regard, nails have a serious advantage over self-tapping screws, since they keep the slabs from moving. The self-tapping screw will simply break off under the weight of the vertical slab, and the nail may bend, but will continue to hold the wall of the house. Best for working with flexible materials Screw nails show themselves. Ruff and ring nails are also used and are more common for roofing work. It must be remembered that it will be difficult to pull out such nails. IN finishing works hardware with a small head is used.

For fastening it is necessary to use galvanized fasteners so that it does not corrode.

• Screw connections- these include wood screws and . The fasteners are easy to tighten and unscrew without causing harm to the material. Screw connections are used when attaching OSB to concrete using dowels (laying a subfloor on a concrete screed). Screws and self-tapping screws provide better tear-off fixation, so they are more often used on horizontal joints.
• Staples- H-shaped fasteners are used to connect the edges of the particle board on the roof. Pneumatic or electric construction staplers are used to fasten surfaces.
• Bonding is not used as the main method of fixation; more often the application of adhesives is used as additional fastening when laying slabs on joists. Usually any wood glues are used; they are selected depending on the method of fastening and the humidity in the room.

Installation features

Installation differs depending on the type of work. TO general recommendations This includes the presence of an expansion joint and protection from contact with water.

Expansion (expansion) seam- this element is called differently, in fact it is a regular seam. As we know from the characteristics of the material, OSB boards tend to swell, change their shape and volume depending on temperature conditions. When installed without an expansion joint, waves and bumps appear on the surface of the slabs over time. The seam between the slabs should be 3 cm, next to the walls - 12 - 15 cm, to the foundation when installing the wall - 10 cm. If the length of the mounted plane exceeds 12 m, then make a gap of 25 cm.

When installing tongue-and-groove slabs, an expansion joint is formed itself due to the tongue-and-groove design.

An example of creating expansion joints when installing a floor

Now let's look at the installation features using specific examples.

• Installing a subfloor- oriented strand boards are laid for subsequent placement of laminate or parquet on them. Installation is carried out on logs or on a concrete screed. The thickness of the sheet when installed on a concrete screed is 8-10 mm; for logs, a slab of up to 22 mm will be required, depending on the distance between the supports. Fastening is carried out using nails or dowels with self-tapping screws; sometimes glue is used as an additional means of fixation.
• Floor on strip foundation - in this case, installation is also carried out on logs made of timber, but the OSB side facing the ground is processed. It is possible to lay two layers of slabs; in this case, they are laid “staggered” so that the seams are not on top of each other.

Features of rough installation flooring of particle materials depend on subsequent finishing. For example, tiles will require a solid base, so it is better to use tongue-and-groove designs; when using rolled material (carpet), the gaps must be sealed using adhesive-sealant.

• - in the ceiling, the same schemes are used as when fixing the floor on joists, only beams are used for the ceiling. To ensure structural rigidity, the main axis must be perpendicular to the beams. The ceiling is covered with a waterproofing film to protect it from water, and special holes are made to drain liquid. Fixation is carried out using self-tapping screws, screws or nails.

Ceiling installation using OSB

• Wall installation produced on the racks of a frame house. The task of the particle board is not to clad the structure, but to give rigidity to the structure and create the power contour of the house. Fastening is carried out on three frame posts using screw nails, which are driven in around the perimeter every 15 cm, in the central part of the sheet - every 30 cm. When the distance between the posts is 50 cm, 12 mm thick slabs are used. The nail should be 2.5 times the thickness of the sheet itself and should be driven in at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. To prevent water from the house from condensing on the insulation and on the stove, the material is protected from the inside using
• WITH outside OSB is closed, it prevents moisture from precipitation from getting on the material, while allowing the wall of the house to “breathe”, organizing air exchange inside the wall. Steam escapes from the room unhindered, but moisture remains on the outside.

Multilayer wall of a frame house - “frame pie”

This structure is called the “pie” of a frame house. The main purpose of a multilayer wall is OSB protection from condensation. Improper design leads to the development of mold and damage to the entire structure.

• - oriented slabs are the basis for subsequent fastening of the roof; the sheets are installed on the rafter system. Sheet thickness is selected depending on the pitch rafter leg. At 60 cm it is optimal to use slabs with a thickness of 12 mm, at 80 cm - 15 - 18 mm, for larger rafter pitches 22 mm OSB is used. Fastening is done using screw nails, since shear fastening is important on a pitched roof. The longitudinal axis of the plates is perpendicular to rafter system. The layers of material are connected to each other in two ways: tongues or staples. If there is a tongue-and-groove connection, there is no need to make an expansion gap, otherwise the gap should be 3 mm, and fastening is done with H-shaped brackets.

When installing the roof, the slabs are laid with the rough side out to make it easier for builders to move

Finishing

After installation it needs final finishing. The material is suitable for wallpapering, puttying and painting. But for this the surface needs to be prepared.

• Sealing seams- it is not necessary to seal technological seams. In most cases, they are covered with laminate, tile or any other external covering. Sometimes sealing seams is even harmful. When using dry mixtures, the slab may become deformed during shrinkage. For some types of work, you will still have to process the seams, for example, when painting, a gap of 3 cm will spoil appearance rooms, so the cracks are closed using a joining mesh, which is attached to the putty.

• Grinding- unsanded OSB does not have a completely smooth texture. To coat with paints and varnishes, it is better to use sanded material or process the product yourself using a belt or eccentric grinder. This procedure is especially relevant before treating the floor covering, as it allows you to get rid of unevenness.

A factory-ground plate has the letter Ш in its marking; unpolished products are designated by the letter combination НШ.

• Primer- the simplest and universal method surface preparation for finishing. The primer is used before painting, before laying tiles, before using varnish, etc. For oriented strand board, primer mixtures provide protection from moisture and increase adhesion (adhesion to other materials). Antiseptic mixtures can also be used to prevent the development of pathogenic microflora, for subsequent use alkyd paints apply primer. Primer is used for filling.

• Reinforcement- application of reinforcing mesh for subsequent plastering, laying tiles or tiles.

Conclusion

OSB is multifunctional material, which can be used in different areas, the features of installation and processing depend on this, but there are also general principles working with particle boards. Care must be taken to minimize contact with water. When installing walls, it is important to ensure the correct design of the walls to avoid the formation of condensation. When laying slabs, we must not forget about the need for expansion joints.

construction yard

OSB (OSB): features for working with slabs and installation recommendations

OSB (OSB) or OSB (oriented strand board) is a modern structural material that has become a serious alternative to plywood, chipboard and is widely used in construction frame houses and finishing of buildings and structures. OSB boards are used to cover interior and exterior walls, floors and roofs. Wall cladding with OSB boards takes place in frame construction, when the slab acts as a structural material and serves to strengthen the walls of a building, or when it acts as a facade material for concrete, brick or wooden houses, which is caused by the low price and high strength and durability of the material. In this article we will look at the question: how to attach OSB boards to the wall from the outside.

At installation of OSB slabs to external walls, lathing are used for the following purposes:

• leveling the wall plane;
• creating a ventilation gap for insulation under the OSB board;
• preventing slab deformation caused by base movements, especially important for OSB slabs with a thickness of 9 mm or less.

Fastening OSB boards to the wall over insulation using lathing

The slab is fastened to the wall using lathing, which is made from a wooden block or metal profile. Technologies for installing OSB boards on a wall with wooden sheathing and metal profile sheathing are not fundamentally different. When choosing a block, it is advisable to choose a dry, planed block of 40-50 mm, then it will not twist or move after drying, which will have a positive effect on the evenness of the entire wall.

To attach the bar and profile to the wall, special metal plates (hangers) are used. Before attaching the hangers, it is necessary to draw vertical stripes on the wall, the distance between which should be half the width of the sheet, which will subsequently ensure the joint of the slabs right in the middle of the bar or profile and will make it possible to fix the OSB slab in the center along its entire length. After the lines are drawn, hangers are attached along them in increments of 30-40 cm.

A metal hanger is used to secure the sheathing.
Suspensions are attached along the marked lines. Hangers allow you to secure the sheathing over the insulation.

After this, the insulation is laid and covered with a membrane that protects the insulation from moisture, after which the sheathing is installed.

It should be taken into account that a vapor barrier is not needed on the outside of the building, since it prevents moist air from entering the insulation from inside the room, and from the outside of the building, excess moisture should freely escape outside.

Wall with sheathing. Insulation is laid between the sheathing and the wall.

After securing the sheathing, you can begin installing the OSB boards. For wall cladding, a slab with a thickness of 9 to 12 mm is most often used. If a facade is not mounted on top of the slab, then the slab must be moisture resistant. To the sheathing from wooden beam OSB boards fastened with nails at least 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet. For metal profile sheathing - use metal screws 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

With this installation, the sheathing weighs above the insulation and does not create cold bridges in the insulation between the wall and the OSB boards. Thanks to this solution, it is achieved maximum efficiency insulation performance. In addition, between the sheathing beams there is an air gap through which moisture is removed from the insulation, which also improves its performance. More detailed information about ventilated facade technology is in the article:.

Fastening OSB boards to a wooden frame

When building frame houses, recommendations for choosing sheets are the same as for covering previously constructed walls. The only difference is when the sheets act as a rigidity element. In this case, their thickness must be at least 12 mm. The recommended thickness is usually 15-18 mm.

When installing walls with a wooden frame, two main approaches are used: attaching OSB sheets to the frame through the sheathing and attaching OSB sheets directly to the frame without sheathing. Let's look at both.

How to attach walls to a frame using sheathing

When strong slabs are attached to the frame from the inside of the wall, providing good rigidity wall structure, then a sheathing can be made on the outside between the frame and the OSB board. The sheathing forms air cavities for ventilation of the insulation and reduces the deformation loads from the frame to the OSB board.

Insulation is placed between the frame posts. A wind and waterproofing membrane is attached over the studs and insulation, which easily allows moisture to pass through. Next, the sheathing and OSB boards are attached to it.

Installation of OSB boards on a wooden frame with sheathing.

With this design, the slabs can be left unfinished; you can paint them, plaster them, or attach almost any façade material to them.

When fastening OSB boards without using sheathing, maximum rigidity of the wall structure is achieved. In this case, it is recommended to attach the wind and waterproof membrane behind the OSB board, then install the sheathing to create a ventilation gap and install façade material on it, such as siding, boards or decorative panels. OSB boards are attached to a wooden frame with nails at least 2.5 times longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

The advantage of using nails over self-tapping screws when fastening OSB on the outside of a house is justified by the fact that nails better tolerate deformation of OSB sheets under atmospheric influences.

Installation of OSB on the walls of a frame house without sheathing

Among the methods of providing rigidity to the frame, three methods are considered optimal, which can be combined with each other:

Fastening sheet materials to the frame racks inside the house;

Jib joints between frame posts;

Fastening sheet materials to frame posts outside the house.

When OSB sheets are mounted to the frame posts outside the house, the sheathing between the sheets and the frame posts leads to a reduction in rigidity by almost half. Therefore, to ensure maximum structural strength, this sheathing is excluded from it. Without the sheathing, the ventilation gap disappears, so it is recommended to attach such sheathing on top of OSB sheets. A waterproof, vapor-permeable film is attached to the OSB, then a lathing, and on top any suitable façade material: siding, corrugated board, wood, façade panels and so on.

Technology for attaching OSB sheets to a wooden frame without the use of sheathing.

The option described above is preferable. But there are other ways. When you need OSB sheets attached to the racks to act as a facade, and nothing is mounted on top of them, then ventilation gap can be arranged between the frame posts. For this purpose, the space between the frame posts is not completely filled with insulation. Leave 2-3 cm for a ventilation gap between the insulation and the OSB sheets. The waterproof, vapor-permeable film is attached to the frame using slats. So that these slats remain between the racks - on two sides to each rack.

A compromise option is to use oblique sheathing. It is laid at an angle of 45 degrees. This helps to increase rigidity compared to straight sheathing. To increase rigidity, boards 25 mm thick are better suited for such sheathing. The board is attached to each frame post with two nails. Due to the increased consumption of materials and the complexity of the work, this method is used extremely rarely, so there is no statistical information about operational characteristics built houses.

Oblique sheathing.

Fastening OSB boards to a metal frame

Fastening is carried out similarly to the option with a wooden frame. When attaching slabs directly to metal frame use metal screws 10-15 mm longer than the thickness of the OSB sheet.

General rules for installing OSB boards to the wall

Regardless of the chosen method of fastening OSB sheets, there is general rules, compliance with which will ensure maximum strength, reliability and durability of the cladding structure.

• Self-tapping screws should be screwed in at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other and at least 1 cm from the edge of the slab.
• A 10 mm gap is required between the bottom slab and the foundation to prevent water accumulation.
• The slabs cannot be joined closely to each other; a gap of 2-3 mm is required between them so that the slab can expand freely due to changes in humidity.
• All door and window openings are cut with a jigsaw or circular saw, but if you need perfectly even joints and cuts, then you can take ready-made sizes and OSB sheets to a furniture shop, where for a small fee they will cut your sheets on a format-cutting machine evenly and precisely to size.

Which side to mount OSB sheets

All sides of OSB sheets do not differ in composition. But there are differences in the surfaces. Often one side is smooth and the other is rough. In this case, when installing slabs on walls on the outside of a building, it is better to mount the sheets with the smooth side out. With this orientation rainwater will not accumulate in such quantities in the unevenness of the slab. Water helps accelerate the destruction of the slab. Protecting sheets from water penetration helps increase their durability.

When installing slabs on the roof under the roof, in turn, it is recommended to place OSB sheets with the rough side up so that they are not slippery to walk on during roof installation work.

When installing OSB boards in places protected from moisture, the choice of their orientation does not have a significant impact on subsequent operation.

In most cases OSB installation sheets outside the house there is a ventilation gap. Air moves along it, which enters from the bottom of the wall from the surrounding space and exits from above back into the atmosphere. Blind sealing of ventilation gaps on any side is not acceptable. Otherwise, instead of a ventilation gap, you get a closed air cavity.

Wasps, mice, and small birds can enter the ventilation gap and build nests there, thereby violating the characteristics of the wall. Therefore, it is recommended to provide protection at the stage of its construction or repair.

There are several options for protecting the wall from rodents, birds and insects, let's look at them.

1. Protection with metal mesh and sheet metal with small holes. It is better to use stainless steel, which will not corrode. Mesh or strips of metal are attached to the bottom and top of the wall behind the OSB sheets so that they do not affect the appearance of the house.

1. Painting mesh. Differs from the previous version in low price and less strength.

1. Perforated facade material at the bottom and top of the wall. For example, in the case of siding, these are perforated soffits.

Grilles or meshes are mounted at the inlet and outlet of ventilation gaps.

Oriented Strand Board or OSB – indispensable attribute any modern construction site. The material is used for both external and interior decoration, can play the role of a load-bearing or connecting element, for example, in a roofing pie, or maybe independent decision, say, in the role of interior partitions or ceilings.

What kind of screws to fasten OSB depends on design features structures and places of direct installation of particle boards.

The versatility of OSB is truly unmatched. It is used with equal success at any stages and cycles of construction.

In order to consider all possible options for fastening OSB boards, it will be convenient to divide their installation into several main groups:

• roofing;
• wall;
• floor.

Methods of fastening OSB for roofing work

Installing OSB boards as one of the layers roofing pie, requires increased attention to the strength characteristics of both the material itself and the fasteners used in the work.

Considering the significant wind and snow loads on the roof plane, as well as the fact that roofing structures are not a static, rigid structure, experts recommend paying attention to the following points:

• when laying OSB on the roof, priority should be given to special “ruff” or ring nails;
• phosphated self-tapping screws used in OSB installation are more fragile and have less strength when the structure moves;
• the final choice of which screws to fasten the OSB to the frame is up to the craftsmen and depends on the climatic conditions in the construction area;
• length of nails or self-tapping screws used in roofing works, is calculated using a simple formula: OSB sheet thickness + minimum 40-45 mm for the fastener entry into the frame;
• that is, if OSB sizes of 9 mm, 12 mm, 15 mm are considered standard, then, therefore, the length of the screw will be in the range of 50-75 mm;
• The fastening map looks like this: along the rafters, the pitch of the screws is 300 mm, along the joints of the slabs - 150 mm, along the eaves or ridge cut - 100 mm and the distance from the edge of the sheet is at least 10 mm.

Conclusion! When installing OSB on the roof, preference should be given to special nails, due to their greater shear strength!

Vertical or wall method of OSB installation

What screws are used to secure OSB for wall mounting? The question has an unambiguous and very specific answer. If the recommended standard thickness used for vertical installation of OSB sheets is 12 mm, then, accordingly, adding to this value the minimum screw body required by the rules of 45-50 mm in a rack or frame, we get the answer -50-70 mm.

The fastening map is the same as the roofing one: in the middle of the sheet, the fasteners go in increments of 300 mm, at the joints of the plates the increment is reduced to 150 mm, the sides adjacent to the ceiling or floor are fastened at 100 mm intervals. The standard distance from the edge is 10 mm.

The choice of the shape of screws for vertical installation is determined by the need to hide the head flush with the plane of the wall. That is why, on the facades and external planes of buildings, self-tapping screws with a disc-shaped head are used, which, when tightened, not only sits in the pocket, but also does not chip the wood, maintaining the appearance of the wall.

Self-tapping screws for wall installation can be replaced with nails with spiral or ring threads. Their length is determined by multiplying the OSB thickness by a factor of 2.5. In our case, this is: 2.5 * 12 mm = 30 mm. This is the minimum allowed length.

Installation of OSB sheets in a horizontal plane: floor/ceiling

It is not worth dwelling in detail on the choice of screws for installing OSB on the ceiling. The pattern, number and size of self-tapping screws used for these purposes repeats the above examples exactly.

Selection of self-tapping screws and fastener pattern for floor installation OSB is determined by the base on which the material is laid.

If it is a beam or slatted frame, then phosphated self-tapping screws with a body length of at least 50 mm and countersunk head– an ideal choice.

When laying OSB on a rough, solid floor, galvanized self-tapping screws with double threads are suitable. The procedure for determining the optimal length is indicated above.

If you read the article carefully, you have already noticed that regardless of where the OSB is installed, the fastener map remains the same. Accordingly, the number of screws required for the job will generally be the same.

The average consumption of self-tapping screws when installing OSB is about 30 pcs. per m². Accordingly, for installation standard sheet you will need about 75-100 pcs. self-tapping screws

Now you know which screws to use to fasten OSB for high-quality and durable use of the boards in combination with other construction and finishing materials.

Advice! When buying, do not chase low prices and check the quality of the screws. There are enough cases of marriage. And there are no trifles at a construction site!

The high-quality and reliable OSB boards produced by DOK Kalevala LLC are now widely used in the fields of production and construction. Oriented strand boards are made from wood chips coniferous species And binder by pressing under the influence high temperature. Moreover, to produce one slab, three layers of chips are used, in each of which the chips are located parallel to each other and perpendicular to the chips of the adjacent layer. This gives the material increased strength.

OSB boards are very strong, reliable, easy to process and use. They do not contain voids, knots, do not delaminate, and do not deform under the influence of moisture. That is why OSB is used in modern construction and repair, in the decoration of premises, in the production of packaging and furniture.

1. Selecting the appropriate type of slab

To carry out the work, you must select the desired size of the slab and correct type OSB in accordance with humidity levels at the site and the level of planned load.

There are the following modifications of the boards: OSB-1. Suitable for indoor use with low air humidity and light load. They are general purpose structures. OSP-2. The boards are suitable for indoor use at low air humidity. They belong to the category of load-bearing structures. OSP-3. Can be used in conditions high humidity. They belong to the category of load-bearing structures. This type slabs are the most popular and in demand on the market.

How to cut chipboard (chipboard)

OSP-4. The boards can be used in high humidity conditions. They are distinguished by increased load resistance.

In addition, OSB boards are available in various thicknesses and formats. The thickness of the slab can be from 9 to 25 mm, size - up to 2800 x 1250 mm. Also, depending on the project, you can choose slabs with a smooth side edge, or with a “groove-ridge” edge, which allows them to be joined.

Give preference to products the right type, depending on where they will be used, in order to increase the efficiency of material use.

2. Tips for acclimatizing slabs and protecting them from water and humidity

Before using OSB on a construction site, it is advisable to condition it in the conditions of a particular site for at least 48 hours. This will allow the material to acclimatize.

In addition, it is important to protect the slabs from harmful effects water and moisture. And if the material has already been used to decorate the external surfaces of the object, protect it from precipitation by covering it with a thick film. It is recommended to sand the joints of OSB-3 boards immediately before final finishing.

3. Specifics of material processing

Cutting, milling, drilling of OSB can be carried out using cutting tool or carbide drills. For cutting it is also permissible to use hand power tool. It is important to note that before starting processing, the OSB must be fixed, and the speed of the tools must be moderate.

4. Fastening slabs and processing gaps

To secure the material, it is recommended to use screws, staples or nails (not with a smooth shaft). The same ones will do connecting elements, as when working with solid wood, and their length should be at least 50 mm. Start fastening the OSB board from the middle of the top part, gradually moving to the sides and down.

As for the gaps, when joining slabs with smooth edges, as well as with other building structures, their width should be 3 mm. And if we are talking about slabs with milled edges (with a “groove-tongue” edge), then gaps between them form by themselves. In addition, when the slabs are laid on the floor, a gap of 15 mm is left between them and the wall. And if the material is used for wall cladding, the gap between it and the foundation should be 10 mm.

5. Application of paints and varnishes to the surface of the material

To process OSB boards, you can use the same varnishes and paints as when working with other types of wood. Moreover, they are used in strict accordance with the instructions.

6. Thermal and waterproofing of OSB

As thermal insulation material, used in conjunction with slabs, demonstrates itself perfectly mineral wool. It is laid on the front side of the building.

If it is planned to install OSB on the façade, their joints are sealed with special insulating tape or PUR or PVA glue is added to the tongue-and-groove joint.

As for the joint between the slab and the foundation, it must be waterproofed. For this purpose, for example, bitumen-based compositions are suitable.

7. Basic principles of storage and storage of material

The following requirements apply to the OSB storage process:

· ensuring protection of structures from water (precipitation, discharge from the soil, etc.);

· ensuring protection of structures from moisture;

· ensuring good ventilation.

The slabs must be stacked on flat surface(plank pallet or wooden lattice) flat. Direct contact with soil should be avoided.

ABOUT THE COMPANY

One of the largest manufacturers of OSB boards in Russia.

The launch of the 1st stage ensures the production of OSB boards in a volume of up to 300 thousand m 3 per year. The first timber industry enterprise in Russia, built as part of project financing.

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How to cut plywood?

Plywood is one of the most popular finishing materials today. In this regard, many people have a question, how to cut plywood? To answer this, it is worth reading some useful information.

"Golden" rules for cutting plywood

In order to cut plywood as efficiently as possible, you need to adhere to several simple rules. Firstly, you first need to cut across the grain, and then along it. This measure allows you to avoid splitting corners and other deformations of the material.

Secondly, depending on the side of the cut, different tools should be used. So, if we are talking about inside, then the best choice would be manual or band saw. If you need to cut material with reverse side, then you should use a contour saw or circular saw.

Thirdly, you need to know that when cutting with a hand-held circular saw, the speed of revolutions should be maintained at high level. In this case, it is best to feed the material itself slowly and smoothly, since otherwise there is a high risk of damaging the material.

Fourthly, every person should know that regardless of the type of saw, its teeth should be fine. In this case, the risk of defects such as sheet bending is significantly reduced.

Finally, the fifth rule is to understand that when cutting you need to stick adhesive tape. This allows you to protect the surface of the sheet from chipping.

Is it possible to make a cut using a regular hacksaw?

The above information can help a person understand the question of how to cut plywood? Depending on the specific situation, the optimal tool may vary. But what to do if you only have a hacksaw at hand?

OSB APPLICATION GUIDE

If everything is done correctly, you can even cut the material evenly using such a primitive tool.

So, if immediately after marking you take a hacksaw and start sawing, the edges will turn out terribly uneven. This is due to the characteristics of plywood, however, there is a way out. Before you start sawing, you need to pour boiling water over the material, let it soak in a little, and then remove excess liquid. This measure allows you to achieve an even and smooth cut.

There is another way - before cutting, make cuts using sharp knife. Moreover, they should be located at a distance of only 1-2 mm from each other (depending on the thickness of the tool). This measure allows you to avoid the hacksaw breaking and, as a result, an uneven cut.

Thus, it can be stated that any tool can produce high-quality cut. The main thing is to follow simple rules for cutting. However, in order to guarantee the desired result, it is better to purchase professional tools or seek help from specialists.

Floor and ceiling

Laying OSB on a wooden floor with your own hands

OSB boards are a popular building material consisting of several layers of wood chips pressed and glued with resins, which has become an excellent replacement for fiberboard and chipboard. The gluing of the slabs is carried out in several layers: to create external ones, the chips are laid along the length, and for internal ones - narrower along the width. This placement provides OSB boards with increased strength and gives them the ability to firmly hold screws (or other fasteners used).

How to properly attach OSB boards to the wall on the outside of the house.

Unlike fiberboard and Chipboard sheets OSB has normal thickness.

Several layers of OSB laid on the floor provide excellent sound insulation, increase thermal insulation characteristics, and also soften the impact of the floor when walking. Modern manufacturers refused to add toxic substances in the composition of the slabs, so this building material is completely environmentally friendly.

OSB is often used to level wooden floors that have become unusable over time. OSB boards are easy to install and do not require special skills and tools, so correcting uneven wood floors will not be difficult. How to do it yourself - read further in the material.

OSB on a wooden floor: how to lay it

If the main wooden surface has unevenness, then it is necessary to level the level using special logs, and only then begin laying OSB sheets. The fixing bars must be installed at an even distance from each other, taking into account the joints. In some cases, to eliminate mobility wooden planks, the floor will have to be rebuilt (install new boards in problem areas). WITH wooden surface It is worth removing paint deposits and protrusions using sandpaper. After this, it will not be superfluous to prime the wooden floor, although this is not necessary.

To ensure maximum reliability, the underside of OSB sheets must be covered with waterproofing. If you intend to lay laminate after OSB boards, then it is worth making vapor insulation on the surface of the boards using polypropylene foam film to prevent condensation.

Now we spread the OSB boards across the floor so that the seams of the next row are offset. There should be no joints in the form of a cross! There are also gaps between the slabs - 3 mm, and along the perimeter of the walls - 12 mm. Afterwards, holes must be drilled in the OSB sheets, and their diameter should be the same as that of the wood screws, which will subsequently secure the OSB board to the floor. The holes themselves must be drilled at a distance of approximately 20-30 cm from each other.

Now you can start fixing the OSB boards to wooden floor. The optimal length of screws is 45 mm or more. If there are no self-tapping screws, then you can use nails, but this is not the best alternative. To increase strength and other positive characteristics, you can lay a second layer of OSB, but only in such a way that the seams of the above and underlying layers are placed with an offset of 20-30 cm (that is, the placement of the seams of the first and second layers should not coincide).

At the end of the work, all gaps can be filled polyurethane foam, the remains of which can be easily cut off with a construction knife after drying. That's actually the whole process.

Preparing OSB boards for finishing

If you are satisfied with the natural pattern of OSB slabs, then you can varnish it, install baseboards and the floor will be ready, but another type of finish can be installed on top of the slabs. If you still don’t plan to install anything on top of the slabs, then in any case it is necessary to cover them with varnish or a special substance that will protect against bark beetles and excessively rapid wear.

When laying laminate over OSB boards special requirements does not extend. Here it is enough to have a surface without sharp changes, and then the laminate, which is equipped with fasteners, will lie on OSB boards without any problems.

But linoleum and carpet need a perfectly flat surface. Even the smallest differences at the joints will make themselves felt during use, and outwardly it will not look attractive. If the carpet is laid elastic, then all the cracks and changes will be felt even when walking. To eliminate all unevenness, it is best to cycle the floor before laying these roll materials to obtain one level.

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