The sewerage layout in a private house is designed in mandatory in the process of preparing general construction documentation. If you need to organize wastewater collection in an already operating building, you will have to order separate project or do it yourself.

Laying out sewer pipes at the foundation stage

Made in accordance with all the rules, and providing the most optimal method of drainage for a private home. But homeowners are not always eager to turn to specialists for help, but prefer to resolve the issue on their own.

Where do you need to start if you want to make a sewer with your own hands? From the drawing, of course. But to do it right, you need to choose suitable scheme, corresponding to real conditions, and understand how the system should function.

Sample sewerage scheme

What you need to know before designing

To design a system, you need to answer the following questions:

• Is it possible to connect to the city highway, will it only be necessary to collect sewage waste, or will it also be necessary to organize their cleaning?
• How much wastewater will be processed? This depends both on the number and seasonality of people living in the house, and on the availability and type of water points.

Figure for clarity - water consumption per day

• You should find out the depth to which the soil freezes. This is necessary for proper deepening of the sewer outlet.
• Ground level - the mark at which the mirror is located groundwater(read how they are carried out in the article). If they are located high, on personal plot A sewer system may also be constructed to collect storm water.
• It is necessary to assess whether the topography of the site allows wastewater to drain by gravity. Otherwise, you will have to use it, and you need to immediately determine the place where it should be installed.

How to properly install a sewer system in a private house if you have to use a pump

• When installing treatment facilities, you need to immediately decide on their type and consider the possibility of access for sewage disposal equipment (read how this is done in the article).
• It is necessary to accurately establish the type of soil in the area, according to which a decision is made either on the construction of filtration trenches or fields.
• It is required to draw a diagram indicating all types of plumbing equipment. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the option of laying the pipeline: inside the floor or superficially, in order to understand whether any dismantling work will have to be carried out.

Why do you need a diagram with internal network wiring? First of all, to correctly calculate the amount necessary materials and accurately determine their location in the system.

Which sewer system is better to install in a private house?

The sewerage system in a private house consists of distribution throughout the premises and external network. Inside, the system may include one or more vertical risers, to which pipes with a smaller diameter are adjacent. Through these pipes, which are necessarily located with a slope, wastewater moves by gravity from the flow points to the general drainage point.

Installation of gravity sewerage in a house under construction

What nuances to consider when laying pipes

Once in the riser, water falls down under the influence of gravity and enters the external pipeline larger diameter, connected either to the central highway or to a local storage or treatment facility.

When developing a diagram, you need to consider a few simple rules:

• The best wiring option for private property is when there is only one riser in the circuit. And this is only possible when the bathroom and kitchen are concentrated in one part of the house and are separated only by a partition. That is why in apartments these rooms are most often located nearby.
• There is a supply pipe to the riser, to which, as in the photo below, all plumbing fixtures are connected. The slope of pipes with a diameter of up to 80 mm should be about 2 cm per 1 m/p.
• The water drain points from the appliances should be located so that the toilet is closest to the riser - in this case, the place where it connects to the drain pipe will be at the lowest point. This is important because otherwise, drainage from the toilet could end up in the drain holes of other appliances.

Riser in the bathroom

Tip: It is advisable to install a grease trap on the pipe coming from the dishwasher and kitchen sink.

Scheme with grease trap

• If possible, unnecessary turns of the pipeline should be avoided, since it is in these places that blockages most often occur. But if you can’t do without them, the turn needs to be made as smooth as possible. So, to get a right angle, use either 3 elbows of 30 degrees or 2 of 45 degrees.

Knee at 45 degrees

Note: in order not to go around the house, the pipeline outlet from it should be located on the side where the autonomous treatment plant or central pipeline is located.

Input of sewerage into the house in close proximity to the septic tank

What materials are best to use

Today, not only in private construction, but also in high-rise buildings, for the assembly of sewer pipelines they use not heavy cast iron, but light, durable and inexpensive plastic, the joints of which are sealed with polymer sealant.

The range of lubricants and pastes for sewer pipes is large

When connecting the drain hole of a sanitary fixture with a drain pipe, it is very important to install water seals, the role of which is played by U-shaped pipes. The water constantly present in their bend is an obstacle to the penetration of fetid odors from the sewer into the room.

Example of a water seal device

Below are the pipe sections (in millimeters) for installation of distribution branches, depending on the type of sanitary equipment:

1. bath, sink and shower drain, if the pipe is common - 50;
2. if everything is taken separately – 40;
3. bidet - 30 or 40;
4. toilet – 100
5. kitchen sink - 30 or 40.

Note: these figures are relevant provided that the toilet is located 1 meter from the riser, and the remaining drain points are no further than 3 meters. If these distances are greater, the diameter of the pipes will have to be increased.

For the riser, which receives not only water from the kitchen, but also drains from the toilet, pipes are taken with a diameter of 100 or 110 mm. Any riser in . should have the same cross-section. If there is no toilet in the house, but only a shower and a kitchen sink, a pipe measuring 50 mm is quite enough to install a riser.

Why does the riser need ventilation?

In the intra-house sewerage system, the riser is the central link that unites all branches of the distribution. It is through it that all waste enters the street network, and accordingly, gases can accumulate in it. To drain them, ventilation is needed, which is carried out thanks to the fan pipe crowning the riser, which is usually led to the roof or beyond external wall(described in detail in the article).

Please note: it is important that there is at least four meters between the drain pipe and the nearest window or balcony.

The simplest option ventilation riser with exhaust

When installing the riser, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

• We have already mentioned that the distance from the toilet to the riser should be minimal, so the riser is always located in the toilet.
• In a vertical pipe, and preferably on each floor, it is necessary to arrange inspection hatches for cleaning.

Inspection hatches for sewerage

• To soundproof the risers, they are sheathed with plasterboard and even covered with mineral wool, but there must still be access to the inspection hatch.
• A valve is installed at the top of the riser, through which air enters the system and prevents water from flowing back out.
• At the bottom it connects to a horizontal pipe, which should have either the same diameter or a little larger.

Connecting the riser to a horizontal pipe and its exit outside the house

Note: in one-story houses The wiring can be done without a riser at all, while pipes from all water flow points are connected to one common one, as shown in the photo below. This version of the device has a place to be, but here’s what happens: if you drain the water in the toilet and bathroom at the same time, it goes down with force, sucking in the water that is in the water seal. That is, a vacuum is created, since there is no air compensation, and when the water seal is empty, odors from the sewer penetrate into the room.

Sewerage without riser

Street part of the system

The outer part of the sewer begins from the place where the horizontal pipe receiving waste from vertical riser or individual branches, extends beyond the house. And here you have to think about how best to organize the disposal or collection of sewage waste.

Wastewater collection options

A variety of solutions are used for wastewater collection. What the options may be is clearly shown in the table:

Options in pictures	Comment
Connection to the city sewer	If your water supply is organized from a central main, then the easiest way is to connect the sewerage system to the city network. Your task will be to pay for the connection, install a manhole with a meter, and extend a pipeline to it from the house. If the distance exceeds 15 m, or there are drops and turns on the route, wells will also need to be installed at each of these points.
Cesspool under the house	a backlash closet is provided directly under the house when constructing a backlash closet. In this case, waste from the toilet is not flushed into the public sewer. For them, under the outer wall, which is located toilet room, a cesspool is being dug. The remaining wastewater can be drained into a filter well with a permeable bottom.
Single chamber septic tank	is located four to six meters from the house, and all sewage waste is collected in it. Otherwise, it is no different from a cesspool - when it is filled, it also has to be pumped out with a sewage disposal machine, and, by the way, this has to be done more often. To make pumping easier and more complete, the bottom of the container, if it is rectangular, is made with a slope. For construction, a concrete monolith or rings, red brick and even car tires can be used.
Vertical settling tanks	In order not to create difficulties for the operation of the sewer truck, the depth of the septic tank should not exceed 3 meters. The volume is determined by calculation, but for a family of 3-4 people, or for a country house of non-permanent residence, 3 m3 is usually sufficient. In most cases, in modern cottage developments, one septic tank is installed, which is assembled from three or four wall rings plus a neck. If the family is larger, and accordingly the daily water consumption increases, there may be two or even three septic tanks. In this case, the solid contents of the wastewater remain in the first settling tank, and half-clarified water is poured into the next container.
	The last well is provided with a permeable bottom with drainage material wrapped in geotextiles. The walls are also made permeable, using rings with perforations, brickwork with a gap, or ready-made plastic containers with slots. It can drain into the same well rainwater from the storm drain. Passing through the drainage layer, the wastewater enters the soil almost clean.
Overflow horizontal septic tank for local cleaning	Vertical septic tanks are usually installed for small volumes of wastewater. If there is a need to expand - and, as has already been said, it is impossible to deepen it further than three meters, the structure can only be expanded horizontally. In this case, either use rings of a larger diameter (not 1, but 1.5 or 2 m), install a ready-made monolithic septic tank with several compartments, or build rectangular container made of brick with a partition and overflow holes in it.
Bioseptic design	In general, there can be a lot of solutions. In particular, you can give preference to factory-made plastic septic tanks that operate on the principle of biological treatment. Depending on required volume, they also come in two or three chambers. They require almost no pumping (sediment is removed once a year), are easy to install, and the purified water can be used for technical purposes or for irrigation (read how to organize it in the article). If waste water is not used anywhere, then it is simply drained into the ground through the same drainage well, which was mentioned above. Or, if the permeability of the soil in the area is low (for example, it is clayey), a filtration field can be installed instead of a well.

Basic requirements for the construction of septic tanks

Design and arrangement of engineering systems - and in particular, sewage systems, in single-family houses residential buildings carried out in accordance with the requirements. We present the main ones below:

• The most important thing is to properly arrange the entry of the pipeline into the house: insulate it and prevent the accumulation of water in this place (described in the article). Wastewater never sits in the pipes themselves, and therefore does not freeze.
• It is best to arrange the input using a sleeve with a warm sealing cuff, as shown in the photo.

Sleeve for arranging the sewerage inlet into the house

• The depth of the pipes depends on the location of the outlet, and it is interconnected with the height of the septic tank neck. When designing a system, you need to start from the design of the house’s foundation (read the article), which determines whether the pipe outlet will pass through it, or whether the pipe can be laid under its base.

Arrangement of outlet on a pile foundation

• As a result, it should turn out so that the pipe approaching the septic tank at an angle can enter it no lower than 15 centimeters from the base of the neck.
• Its height usually does not exceed 90 cm, so the maximum depth of the pipe at the point of its entry into the septic tank will be 1.05 meters. Near the foundation, with a route length of 10-12 m, the elevation of the bottom of the pipe will be about 0.9 m.

Entering the pipe through the basement, through the foundation wall

• If or is a shallow tape, the pipe passes under it without any problems. With more deep It is necessary to lay a sleeve in the foundation walls to carry out communications. Or, if this was not done, you have to drill them later.
• When installing a septic tank, it is necessary to maintain not only the distances from the house and water supply facilities, but also other buildings on your own and your neighbor’s property. For clarity, a diagram is given below.

Standards for placing a septic tank on a personal plot

• Pipelines must be laid on local soil undisturbed density. If the trench has to be leveled, then, in order to avoid subsidence, the bedding must be carefully compacted.

It is always better when the project is drawn up by a professional. If you visit thematic forums and read reviews from people who are puzzled serious problems with sewerage, you will understand that a stingy person can pay even more than twice.

If desired, even private house V rural areas can be arranged. The first thing a suburban resident faces is the lack of a warm toilet in the house. Without sewerage, a person is deprived of many amenities. This is not a luxury, it is a necessity. Laying sewerage in a private house - complex process, which requires taking into account every little detail. How to do this?

External and internal

Work related to the installation of a sewer system in a private house begins with the design of the internal and In the first case, the installation of a drain pipe, a riser, as well as pipe distribution to all rooms where it is required: kitchen, toilet, bathroom, and so on is required. As for the external system, this is everything that is located outside the house. Its arrangement requires connecting pipes to the septic tank. You can also connect the sewer system to a deep cleaning station.

The task is greatly simplified if it is possible to discharge wastewater into centralized system. If the house is located in an isolated area, then you should create a system with homemade septic tank. It can be with or cumulative. A cesspool is not suitable in this case.

Layout diagram in a private house

Before starting work, you should draw up a plan for laying pipes inside a private house. The process is greatly simplified if all wet rooms are located in close proximity. The scheme is drawn up strictly individually. In the process, you should take into account all the features of the house and the location of the premises. Ready option can look anything.

When designing a sewer system inside a house, it is necessary to accurately calculate the location of the collector pipe. Only after this can you determine where the remaining parts of the system will be laid.

How to make the right diagram

The scheme for laying a sewer system in a private house is important stage. The quality of the system and its reliability depend on how well the plan is drawn up. Stages of drawing up a diagram:

1. On a piece of paper, preferably in a box, you need to recreate the house plan. When drawing up a plan, it is worth considering the scale.
2. Then you need to decide on the location of the riser or collector pipe.
3. At all levels of the building, the location of plumbing fixtures must be noted. At this stage, you should learn about how to connect it.
4. From the plumbing it is necessary to lay pipes on paper to the riser. In this case, all connecting elements, tees, bends and corners should be taken into account.
5. It is necessary to measure the length of each element internal system and summarize the data. The result will be required quantity pipes In this case, the diameter of the material must be taken into account.

The final stage is drawing up a diagram of the external system: releasing pipes and laying them to the septic tank. In this case, it is necessary to take into account all the requirements specified in SanPiN 2.1.4.1110-02, as well as SNiP 2.04.03-85.

What to consider when arranging the internal system

The installation of internal sewerage in a private house begins after drawing up a rough diagram. At this stage, several nuances should be taken into account:

1. To drain wastewater from the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm are required. Their total length must be at least 100 centimeters.
2. For gray drains that enter the common riser from the kitchen and bathroom, pipes made of PP or PVC are required. The diameter of the material should be 5 centimeters.
3. To arrange turns in the system, it is necessary to use several plastic elbows made at an angle of 45°. This allows you to reduce the risk of blockages during sewer use.
4. It is best to use polypropylene for arranging sewage systems inside the house. This material is more durable, reliable and relatively inexpensive. When using such pipes, laying sewerage in a private house is simplified.

Choosing pipes

Laying a sewer system in a private house requires careful preparation. After drawing up the scheme and carrying out necessary calculations, purchase of materials required. Gray pipes are used for wiring inside the house. To install an external system, orange-colored pipes are required. The difference in color can be explained based on logic. Orange hues are best seen in the ground. In addition, pipes have differences in properties. First of all, this concerns the material. Pipes located underground must withstand more severe loads. The material for their manufacture must be more rigid.

To ensure successful installation of sewerage in a private house with your own hands, you can use double-layer corrugated pipes. But, as practice shows, their use is often inappropriate. After all, the depth of sewerage in a private house is from 2 to 3 meters. It is much cheaper and no less effective to use orange pipes. Most often, a material with a diameter of 11 centimeters is used for arranging the external system. This is quite enough for normal wastewater drainage.

How to lay pipes? It's easy!

Laying a sewer system in a private house with your own hands requires certain skills and patience. The most difficult stage is the placement of pipes and their fastening. It is almost impossible to do this alone. Therefore, you will need an assistant for the job. This will not only speed up the process, but also improve quality.

The simplest option for laying sewerage is to use PVC or PP pipes. A fairly wide range of such products is produced. If necessary, you can purchase material of the required diameter, tees, elbows and revisions. It is worth noting that each part is equipped with a special rubberized insert - a cuff. Thanks to this element, laying a sewer system in a private house takes little time. The joints are connected easily and securely. If desired, you can process the seams additionally. Silicone-based plumbing sealant is suitable for this.

Things to consider

When laying pipes, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

1. If pipes run through walls or ceilings, they must be placed in special sleeves that reduce the load on parts of the system.
2. The slope of the sewer system elements depends on their diameter and is prescribed in SNiP 2.04.03-85. For example, for a material whose diameter is 5 centimeters, this figure should be 3 cm/m, and for a diameter of 10 to 11 centimeters - 2 cm/m.

Sewer outlet installation

If a problem arises and the internal system does not correspond to the external one, then the laying of sewer pipes in a private house should begin with the outlet. This is the border zone between systems. At this point, the riser is connected to a pipe leading to a wastewater collection tank.

The outlet must be installed through the foundation wall. The depth of its laying should be below the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise in winter period Difficulties may arise during the operation of the sewerage system. If the outlet hole was not specified during the construction of the building, then it will have to be punched. Its diameter must correspond to the dimensions of the pipe located in the sleeve. The latter should be longer than the hole. At each edge, the sleeve should cover the pipe by more than 15 centimeters. These are the basic requirements for sewerage release.

Installation of the riser and further wiring

The size of the pipe from the riser to the toilet should be 1000 mm. This allows you to determine its location. It is better to install the riser in the toilet itself. The installation can be hidden or open. It all depends on where the pipe will be installed. You can install the riser close to the wall. To do this, you should use pendants and clamps. You can also install the pipe in a niche, in a channel or in a box.

To connect the riser and other parts of the system, you can use oblique tees. If the pipes are different in diameter, then adapters should be used to connect them. They allow you to avoid using sealant. In those places where there is an intersection of elements coming from the shower, sink or bathtub, it is necessary to install a collector pipe. Its diameter should be from 10 to 11 centimeters. Don't forget about water seals. These elements do not allow unpleasant odors to penetrate into the living space.

On each floor, an inspection is installed in the riser - a kind of tee designed to clear the system in case of severe blockage.

What is a fan pipe

By following the rules for laying sewerage in a private house, you can create an external and internal system without any problems. In addition to installing the riser, a drain pipe is also required. This is its continuation, which is displayed on the roof of the house. This part is installed on the riser. A revision is installed at the connection point. After this, the vent pipe is led into the attic at an angle. Do not connect it to the building ventilation system or chimney.

Types of septic tanks

Pad external sewerage in a private house - this is no less important stage than installing the internal system. If the arrangement is incorrect, problems may arise not only with comfort, but also with environmentalists. One mistake can turn your drain into a big, smelly problem that will take a lot of time and money to fix.

You should start with the installation of a septic tank. Settlement type structures are most often used. This is a container or a combination of them through which wastewater passes. Gradually they are cleared. This occurs due to the precipitation of heavy inclusions. Afterwards, the wastewater undergoes additional purification in a filtration well or in the field. In this case, both mechanical and biological cleaning methods are used.

There is another, simpler type of septic tank - storage. In this case, a closed container of sufficiently large volume is installed. All waste is collected in it. To empty such a septic tank, sewage pumping is required, which is carried out This method arrangement outdoor system easier to implement. Plus it's cheaper.

How to calculate the required volume

Calculating the dimensions is not that difficult. The volume is determined based on settling for 3 days. In this case, the average consumption per person per day is 200 liters. If desired, this indicator can be calculated individually. If two people live in a house on a permanent basis, then the volume of the septic tank should be:

2 x 200 x 3 = 1200 liters or 1.2 cubic meters.

Stages of installation of an external system

The installation of sewerage in a private house does not end after the complete installation of the internal system. After all, the arrangement of the external part is required. Stages of arranging an external system:

1. First you need to prepare the materials: a ready-made container of the required volume made of PP or a ring made of reinforced concrete. If desired, you can lay it out of brick or fill it with a monolith.
2. The next step is to determine a suitable wastewater treatment method.
3. Afterwards, excavation work is carried out: a pit is dug for the container and trenches for laying pipes.
4. All structural elements must be connected. At the same time, do not forget about comfortable septic tank maintenance.
5. Pipes should be installed at a certain slope. This indicator should be 2 cm/m. The joints must be sealed.
6. The septic tank should be equipped with a ventilation system.
7. After carrying out work on thermal and waterproofing of individual fragments of the system, you can fill the structure with soil.

When placing a septic tank, it is worth considering the location of buildings on the plot. You should not place a waste container near a recreation area or playground.

In conclusion

Now you know how to sewer a private house. If you follow all the rules you will receive reliable system. Before starting to operate the sewer, it is worth running it. To do this, the system needs to be flushed clean water. This will allow you to identify all the shortcomings and correct them. Only after this can the operation of the sewer system begin.

In fact, the process of installing individual fragments is not particularly difficult. The main thing is to avoid mistakes when drawing up a sewerage diagram, and also to make the correct slope of the pipes. Otherwise, the system will not function normally.

Installation of a drainage system is an important stage in the construction of a private house. For equipment autonomous system drainage, lay a network that delivers sewage to the drainage well. Installing a sewer system in a private house is a labor-intensive task, but if you do the work yourself, no major difficulties should arise. You will need to resort to the help of specialists in difficult sections of the sewer system.

Sewerage- This engineering system, the creation of which begins at the design stage of the house. By the time the sewer installation begins, its design must be ready, and the locations of plumbing fixtures must be determined.

Technical documentation on their connection and operation should also be collected.

General information

The sewerage system in a private house includes internal And external sewerage, as well as prefabricated well. In houses consisting of two floors or more, with their own bathrooms on each floor, the sewer system is additionally equipped fan pipe.

Laying a sewer network involves the following steps:

• Preparation of a pipeline project, taking into account all connected devices, and calculation of the amount of building materials.
• Purchase of pipes, connecting elements and fittings.
• Cutting pipes into sections following the design.
• Performing internal wiring and output sewer pipe out.
• Installation of a drain pipe.
• Laying external sewerage.
• Arrangement of a prefabricated well and connection to it.

Rules

Rules for performing internal wiring:

• Each fixture and functional section of the sewer system requires pipes various diameters: for the riser and toilet - 11 cm, for showers, bathtubs, kitchen sink - 5 cm, for the rest 3.2 cm is enough. The diameter of the pipe to which several devices are connected at the same time should be from 7.5 cm.
• The pipeline is made at an angle of 2-3 cm.
• The pipes must be connected tightly and not create obstacles free movement liquids. They are connected in the direction of the flow. There should be no roughness, unevenness or burrs at the junction of the pipes.

It is better to exclude right angles, since this is where blockages appear. To perform a turn, several pipes with smaller angles are used.

• To prevent backflow from the sewer and the penetration of unpleasant odors into the house, an S-shaped bent pipe is attached to the pipe of each device, which acts as a water seal.
• If the house consists of several floors, and each floor has plumbing fixtures, it will have a common riser.
• Toilets are installed closer to the riser than other household and plumbing fixtures.
• Sewage units are not installed in walls or ceilings.
• When leading pipes through walls and ceilings, sleeves are used to insert or cut wider pipes.
• At the points of connection to the riser and at pipeline turns, tees with inspection windows closed with plugs are installed. Through these windows, pipes are cleaned in case of blockage.
• The riser is located as close as possible to the place where the sewer drains to the outside.

Removing pipes from the house is done as follows:

• a hole with a diameter of 13-16 cm is made in the foundation or basement of the house or left during construction.
• a sleeve is inserted into the hole, along the walls of which insulation is laid.
• a pipe is pulled through the insulated sleeve connecting the house with the rest of the internal sewerage system.

In a house that has several bathrooms or a swimming pool, the pipeline is equipped with a drain pipe. The fan pipe is a special sewer ventilation. It is responsible for removing gases from the sewer and, in the event of rarefaction of gases in the pipes, air intake.

The riser is extended upward and placed 30 cm above the roof. The part of the sewer pipe that runs outside is installed vertically upward so that gases from the sewer network escape into the atmosphere. The top of the fan pipe is covered with an umbrella nozzle.

Important!!! The fan pipe is not led into the ventilation system. Since sewer odors will penetrate through the ventilation into the house.

Wastewater is collected in a collector or septic tank - a well into which sewage also flows from the sewer network. It is positioned so that it is at the very bottom of the drainage system.

The well must be located at a certain distance from other objects located on the site. To non-residential outbuildings - at least 1 m, to residential buildings - at least 5-7 m, to a water intake well - at least 50 m, to the fence between plots - at least 2 m, to open reservoirs - at least 15 meters.

One of three well options will be installed for your home:

• a storage well is a sealed container in which wastewater accumulates. When the well is full, the water is removed;
• well with post-treatment – ​​a container made of combined chambers. Sewage is filtered in it, the sediment is processed by microorganisms, and water enters the last chamber and from there goes into the soil;
• wastewater biotreatment station – well with filters and bioreactor. Here wastewater is purified from dangerous microorganisms and safe ones are released. Purified water goes into the ground, and separated organic compounds used as fertilizer.

Installation of sewerage in the house

Sewer PVC pipes when installing a drainage system:

• Easy to connect. The entire system is assembled like a construction set;
• The materials are light in weight;
• The mounting method is simple, even on a vertical surface.
• The disadvantage is that the maximum length is 6 m.

What to do with wastewater in a private house if there is no central sewerage system nearby?!

Eat two sewer options— drainage of wastewater from a private house:

1. Drain water to drainless storage septic tank (reservoir, cesspool) with periodic, as it fills, pumping and removal of wastewater by a sewage truck to sewage treatment plants nearest settlement.
2. Device local treatment facilities on site and discharge of purified water into the natural environment - into the ground or onto the terrain.

The first method provides the minimum cost sewerage construction, but the annual operating costs (removal of wastewater) can be significant.

Sewerage of a private house with a storage tank (septic tank, cesspool), and periodic, as it is filled, pumping and removal of wastewater by a sewage truck to the treatment facilities of the nearest settlement. Provides minimal sewer construction costs, but annual operating costs (effluent removal) can be significant.

Local sewerage treatment facilities for a private home

The sewerage option with local treatment facilities is more expensive to construct, but can provide lower running costs for the maintenance of the system.

Local wastewater treatment plants use a biological method to remove contaminants from wastewater. Wastewater treatment is carried out by microorganisms capable of decomposing organic pollutants. Main task biological treatment— removal of organic substances from wastewater.

Biochemical reactions occurring during biological treatment are partially removed from wastewater and many chemical elements, reducing their concentration in wastewater.

Distinguish anaerobic(bacteria without oxygen access) and aerobic(bacteria in the presence of oxygen) biological treatment processes.

Two types of local treatment facilities for a private home

To treat wastewater from a private home, use:

1. Anaerobic septic tanks, supplemented by ground treatment facilities with filter drainage through the soil layer. In soil filters, the process of post-treatment of wastewater occurs using aerobic bacteria.
2. Active septic tanks— treatment devices in which the process of intensive biological wastewater treatment using aerobic bacteria has been established. Treated wastewater from an active septic tank is usually discharged onto the terrain.

First option, an anaerobic septic tank with drainage of wastewater into the ground, as a rule, cheaper to construct and operate. Here, in treatment facilities, conditions close to natural are created for the life of microorganisms. A simple device ensures long-term and reliable operation of the sewer system.

The second option with an active septic tank- more expensive and difficult to operate. An active septic tank is a high-tech factory-made apparatus in which artificial conditions for the vital activity of aerobic microorganisms, which can significantly speed up the cleaning process.

Sewage of a private house with an active septic tank provides the most high degree wastewater treatment. Treated wastewater from an active septic tank is directed into the ground through drainage system. If the soils on the site are impermeable, wastewater is discharged onto the terrain, into a ditch.

An active septic tank requires connection to the electrical network, does not tolerate long interruptions in the supply of wastewater, is sensitive to power outages, and requires constant monitoring of operation, as well as timely repairs and maintenance. Advantages: small dimensions, quick installation, independence from soil conditions on the site.

Selection of drainage system for sewage treatment plants

The choice of drainage system for transferring wastewater into the ground is determined by the filtering properties of the soil. In addition, the size and cost of the systems are taken into account.

For device absorption fields from drainage pipes requires more site space than other filtration methods. Drainage tunnels take up less space, but the cost of their construction is higher.

Drainage wells have a relatively small area of ​​filtration of wastewater into the ground. Their installation is justified on soils with very good filtering capacity. Especially if such a layer of soil lies at depth.

Filtering drainage well with aeration

How to turn a filtering drainage well into a biological sewage treatment station, into an active bioseptic tank - watch the video:

Diaphragm compressor HIBLOW HP-60, 60 l/min, 51 W, 220 IN. Working pressure: 14,7 kPa., which corresponds to water pressure at a depth of 1.5 m.; Noise level: 35 dB; Weight: 7 kg. (1 kPa = 9,524 mBar)

Disc aerator with platform MATALA MDB 11 .

Model / Article: MDB11; Air volume l/min: 40~120; Dimensions: LxWxH ( mm) 290x258x130; Weight ( kg) (lbs): 1.5 / 3.3

The aeration element is designed to distribute the air supplied by the compressor throughout the water volume. From the point of view of the intensity of the degree of oxygen dissolution, fine-bubble aeration is the most effective. Air enters through the perforated material, creating a large number of tiny bubbles that rise to the surface of the water, saturating it with oxygen.

The back pressure ring prevents water from entering the aerator. The holes, perforated in the form of lye, open when air enters and close when it stops, which prevents the system from ruptures, contamination and filling the air duct with water.

All models have a 3/4″ male connector. The platform has a cavity that is filled with sand or gravel.

Where to place a septic tank and drainage of wastewater into the ground on the site

The installation of drainage of wastewater from a septic tank into natural soil is possible in an area where:

• Groundwater level is low - at least 1.5 m. from the surface of the area. The area should not be periodically flooded.
• The filtering capacity of the soil should not be too small. For device ground drainage Almost all soils are suitable, except clay.
• The dimensions of the site must allow for placement drainage pipes or a filter well at a distance of at least: from the well and well, including in the neighboring area - 30 m. upstream groundwater or 15 m. against the current or 19 m. perpendicular to the flow of groundwater; from home - 5 m.; from the border of the site - 2 m.; from trees and large bushes - 3 m.
• A septic tank, filter well or infiltrator should be placed no closer than 5 m from the foundation of the house to eliminate the risk of soil moisture at the base of the foundation.
• The septic tank is installed in a place convenient for access by a sewage disposal truck.

Installation of a septic tank in a private country house

The wastewater from the house is sent to a container called a septic tank and accumulates there. A septic tank is an essential element of local treatment facilities autonomous sewerage private house.

Wastewater treatment in local treatment plants with ground drainage takes place in several stages.

How a septic tank treats wastewater

The first occurs in the septic tank preliminary stage of wastewater treatment.

In the septic tank, particles heavier than water settle from the incoming sewage water and settle to the bottom.

Grease and other substances lighter than water gradually accumulate on the surface of wastewater and create a floating crust that prevents the flow of oxygen.

The presence of a fatty crust on the surface of the liquid in a septic tank creates the necessary conditions for the process of anaerobic (without oxygen) fermentation of organic pollutants in wastewater.

In a septic tank, contaminants in the effluent are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria with the release of mineral particles heavier than water, suspended and dissolved substances, as well as gases.

Freed from most of the contaminants, clarified sewage flows from the septic tank to ground treatment facilities for further treatment.

At the bottom of the septic tank gradually sediment accumulates in the form of silt - the result of the decomposition of contaminants.

Gases are removed from the septic tank through the sewer ventilation system.

It is necessary to strive to increase the degree of wastewater treatment in the septic tank. The less pollutants in the wastewater leaving the septic tank, the slower the process of siltation of soil drainage, the longer its service life.

Dimensions, volume and number of septic tank chambers

To clean wastewater to the required level it is necessary to keep them in a septic tank for at least three days.

The amount of wastewater in a private house is recommended to be 150-200 liters per day per person. If a family of 4 lives in a house, then for three days the total estimated waste volume will be at least 1.8 m 3, for a family of six - 2.7 m 3.

Choose a septic tank of a size that allows contain the estimated volume of wastewater, no less. The depth of the liquid layer in the septic tank should not be less than 1.2 m. It is recommended to increase the useful volume of the septic tank chamber by 10 - 30% compared to the calculated one in order to leave more space in it for the accumulation of bottom sediments- you can clean the septic tank less often. In addition, the length of time wastewater remains in the septic tank increases, which increases the degree of wastewater treatment.

A septic tank can consist of several chambers - containers connected in series by pipes.

The presence of several chambers in a septic tank does not significantly affect the quality of wastewater treatment. With a large total volume of the septic tank, multi-chamber septic tanks can be easier to manufacture, transport and install, and it is also more convenient to remove sediment - only from the first chamber.

Building codes recommend, but do not oblige, with a daily number of drains of up to 1 m 3 /day install a single-chamber septic tank, and if the number of drains is up to 10 m 3 /day- two-chamber. In a two-chamber septic tank, the working volume of the second chamber should be equal to 25-30% of the total useful volume of the septic tank.

For a family of 5-6 people, a single-chamber septic tank is quite enough.

To improve wastewater treatment it is more profitable to increase the volume of the septic tank rather than the number of chambers. In a large-volume septic tank, the duration of the wastewater being in the septic tank increases, and this increases the degree of purification of the wastewater at the exit from the septic tank.

The effluent from the septic tank is sent to ground treatment facilities - a filter well, an absorption field or a filtration field. Supplying cleaner wastewater from the septic tank to these soil filters increases their service life.

Where to install a septic tank

Pre-cleaning septic tank is desirable locate closer to home so that the wastewater entering it cools less. Higher temperatures in the septic tank accelerate the decomposition processes of contaminants. In addition, in winter the risk of water freezing in the supply pipe and septic tank is reduced.

Septic tanks on site are recommended located at a distance of 5 - 10 meters from the house. A closer location poses a threat to the stability of the soil under the foundation, especially in the event of a seal failure and leaks from the septic tank.

At long distance from the house, in order to ensure the required slope of long sewer pipes, the septic tank and treatment facilities have to be deeply buried, which increases the cost of construction.

Do not try to bury the septic tank more than the minimum required to ensure the required slope of the sewer pipes from the house to the septic tank. It is more profitable to protect the septic tank from freezing than to bury it to the depth of soil freezing. Septic tanks and other sewerage structures located at great depths are more expensive to build and operate.

Septic tanks sealed for water and gases can be placed near the house, in the garage or even in the basement of the house. A prerequisite is the presence of ventilation of the septic tank through a sewer riser. The quality of manufacture and installation of the septic tank should exclude the possibility of leaks and flooding of the foundations.

A sewage disposal truck should be accessible to the neck of the septic tank.- a suction pump, which is used to clean the septic tank from bottom sediments. If this is not done, then cleaning the septic tank will have to be done manually.

What to make a septic tank from

To prevent untreated wastewater from entering the ground The septic tank must be watertight.

Single-chamber plastic septic tank of an autonomous sewage system of a private house. The bypass pipe is a bypass and serves to circulate air in the sewerage ventilation system.

Available for sale septic tanks made of plastic. Plastic septic tanks are lightweight, easy to transport and quick to install. Plastic septic tanks are easily deformed by soil pressure and damaged by stones when backfilling soil; they tend to float to the surface of the earth.

Manufacturers offer one-, two- and three-chamber plastic septic tanks of various capacities.

Concrete septic tanks done at the construction site. To make a septic tank, you use ready-made concrete rings for wells or make a monolithic container by pouring concrete into the formwork.

The septic tank can be laid out from full-bodied ceramic bricks on a concrete base. The walls of a brick septic tank are plastered from the inside with a cement-sand mortar with additives that increase the water resistance of the plaster. Plaster thickness 20 mm. From the outside, brick septic tanks are coated with a hot bitumen composition over a bitumen primer.

Building a septic tank with your own hands is usually cheaper than buying and installing a ready-made one.

Septic tank made of concrete rings

The picture shows a drawing from standard project single-chamber septic tank designs from standard concrete rings produced by factories reinforced concrete structures. The diameter and number of concrete rings are selected based on the required size (volume of wastewater) of the septic tank (see above).

For example, the septic tank shown in the drawing of two standard concrete rings with a diameter of 1.5 meters, the height of the chamber is 1.8 m. can serve a family of five. The useful capacity of such a septic tank is 2.6 m 3(from the bottom to the outlet pipe).

Septic tank made of two rings with a diameter of 2 meters will cope with sewage drains from a house where 10 people live. Useful capacity of septic tank 4.8 m 3.

Of three rings with a diameter of 1 meter you can make a septic tank for a family of 3 people. The useful capacity of such a septic tank is 1.6 m 3.

The septic tank floor slab can be located at a depth of 0.4 - 0.9 m from the site level. The hole into the septic tank is made from a standard concrete ring with a diameter of 0.7 - 1.0 m. or laid out from solid brick.

The septic tank is protected from freezing, laying foam or extruded polystyrene foam insulation on the floor slab and walls. The walls of the septic tank are insulated to a depth of approximately 1.0 meter from the surface of the earth. The hole into the septic tank at the level of the floor slab is closed with an insulated lid.

Tees are placed at the ends of the supply and outlet pipes in the septic tank, pos. 3 in the picture on the left. The tee on the supply pipe directs the newly received wastewater downwards, preventing strong mixing of the liquid in the septic tank.

A tee on the outlet pipe is necessary in order to maintain a crust on the surface of the wastewater in the septic tank. The crust provides an anaerobic (without oxygen) mode of decomposition of contaminants.

The upper channels of the tees at the ends of the pipes in the septic tank ensure the free movement of air from the outlet pipe, through the septic tank, into the supply pipe and then into the ventilation sewer riser in the house. In plastic septic tanks, for this purpose, a bypass pipe is installed outside - a bypass, connecting the inlet and outlet pipes of the septic tank.

Pipe, item 1 in the picture, with a diameter of 80-100 mm. installed along the same axis with the tee on the exhaust pipe and serves for cleaning the tee. The top of the pipe is permanently closed with a plug. pos.2.

The tee on the supply pipe is cleaned through the neck of the septic tank. For this, a hole into the septic tank is made above the tee of the supply pipe.

The receiving pipe from the house to the septic tank usually has a short length (5-10 m.) and is laid at a shallow depth. It is recommended to lay the pipe section from the house to the septic tank with a greater slope than is customary, at least 2.5-3% towards the septic tank.

The temperature of the wastewater leaving the house is approximately +15 about S. With increased slope The wastewater has time to reach the septic tank in winter without having time to cool down much in the pipe, even without additional insulation.

Has a similar design from concrete rings, intended only for collecting wastewater, pumping it out and removing it with a sewage disposal truck. There is no pipe for releasing wastewater into local treatment facilities in such a septic tank. And the pipe for cleaning the tee is used as an air intake for the ventilation system.

Sealing a septic tank

To prevent untreated water from entering the ground, the septic tank must be sealed. To do this, a bitumen primer is applied to the bottom and walls of the septic tank from the inside, and then covered with waterproofing material.

The outer walls of the septic tank and manhole are waterproofed by coating with bitumen mastic, which protects the concrete from ground moisture.

Many developers ask the question: “ Why seal a septic tank?, if the wastewater from the septic tank still goes to the groundwater treatment plant?”

The fact is that the wastewater entering the septic tank contains a large number of pathogenic microorganisms. Leaking from an unsealed septic tank, they will contaminate the soil on the site. Once in groundwater, they easily travel long distances, infecting water in wells and wells.

As a result of the processes described above, wastewater in a sealed septic tank is freed from pathogens, dying in anaerobic conditions of a septic tank. A significant portion of other contaminants settles to the bottom and turns into substances that are less dangerous to humans and the natural environment.

In a properly constructed septic tank, approximately 70% of the contaminants remain. Significantly less dangerous wastewater flows from the septic tank to the ground treatment plant. Don't neglect sealing your septic tank.

Septic tank maintenance and cleaning

In a new septic tank, it is necessary to create conditions for the rapid accumulation of microflora, which carries out anaerobic digestion of contaminants.

To colonize the new septic tank with the necessary microorganisms, two weeks after the start of use, it is recommended to load mature sediment from the existing septic tank in an amount of approximately 20-30 liters per 1 m 3 useful volume of the septic tank. Without introducing external microflora, the normal cleaning process will start only after a few months.

There are preparations on sale - bioactivators, which contain microorganisms necessary for the operation of the septic tank. Be careful - you should buy drugs intended for for activation of anaerobic septic tanks. Loading a bioactivator intended for an active aerobic septic tank into an anaerobic septic tank will cause harm.

The bioactivator is useful for using for a new septic tank, as well as in case of disruption of the septic tank, for example, after a long winter break at the beginning summer season. Constantly using bioactivators for an anaerobic septic tank, as advertising sometimes advises, does not make sense.

It must not be allowed to the amount of liquid in the septic tank, due to accumulated bottom sediments, greatly decreased and became less than 80% of the calculated volume. The lower surface of the floating crust should not fall to the lower edge of the tee. The level of sediment is controlled by lowering a wooden strip into the septic tank.

Cleaning begins by removing the crust using a mesh scoop with 3-4 mm holes.

To pump out sediments, a sewage disposal machine is usually used - a sludge sucker. Special silt sucker vacuum pump sucks a fairly thick sludge mass from the bottom of the septic tank into its tank.

When cleaning by hand, the sludge is scooped out from the bottom with a long-handled ladle. Before cleaning, use a special fecal pump to pump out the water.

To ensure that the wastewater treatment process is not interrupted after sludge removal, approximately 15-20% sludge is left in the septic tank from the volume intended for it.

Should not go into the septic tank large quantities of rough paper, fabric, pads, pads, packaging film, vegetable waste - everything that slowly decomposes.

If the process of decomposition of contaminants in the septic tank proceeds normally, then the acidity of the wastewater at the outlet of the septic tank should be within the range of Ph = 6.5 - 7.5. The color of the sludge in the septic tank is dark gray. When the wastewater leaves a properly operating septic tank, it should be dirty brown in color, transparent and without the smell of hydrogen sulfide.

If effluent from a septic tank is stored in a jar for several days, sediment will form and bad smell. This is the result of the decomposition of contaminants remaining in the wastewater by aerobic bacteria.

To prevent the soil filter after the septic tank from quickly silting up, the concentration of suspended solids in the wastewater after the septic tank should not be higher than 100 mg/l.

A few months after putting a new septic tank into operation, it is recommended to take samples a couple of times and determine this indicator and the acidity value - Ph - for wastewater from your septic tank in the laboratory. The cost of analysis is small, and confidence in proper operation septic tank adds.

Some sources of information claim that in European countries multi-chamber septic tanks of increased volume are used, designed to store wastewater in a septic tank for 10 days (and not 3 days, as in the Russian Federation). As a result of a longer stay in a septic tank, the degree of wastewater treatment increases. The concentration of suspended solids in wastewater at the outlet of such a septic tank is less than 25 mg/l. Effluents with such concentrations in Europe can be discharged onto the terrain, into water bodies.

By sanitary standards In Russia, wastewater with a concentration of suspended solids of no more than 2 is suitable for discharge into water bodies. mg/l. Therefore, in the Russian Federation they use septic tanks with a 3-day capacity with additional treatment facilities.

Where to buy a septic tank

Deadly septic tank

During the decomposition of contaminants in wastewater toxic gases are formed — carbon dioxide, methane, hydrogen sulfide. Gases from the septic tank are removed through the natural ventilation system of the sewer riser in the house.

Even after emptying, the septic tank may remain lethal concentrations of dangerous gases for humans. Gases are heavier than air, and some of them are contained in the sediment at the bottom of the septic tank. Natural ventilation often cannot reduce the concentration of these gases to safe levels.

It is strictly forbidden for anyone to enter the septic tank. without implementing security measures. Immediately before descending into the septic tank, it is necessary to wait at least 30 minutes forcefully ventilate the septic tank by supplying air from the compressor through a hose or other air blower . The end of the hose must be near the bottom, and the amount of air supplied to the septic tank during the specified time must be at least ten times the volume of the septic tank. The air supply should not be interrupted while working in the septic tank.

During work, be sure to protect the open hatch of the septic tank. Hatch - the septic tank lid should not be easily opened without the use of a tool - it's safer for children.

At the next stage of treatment, wastewater from the septic tank enters the drainage system - absorption field, filter well or filtration field.

From the following article you will learn:

1. How to make an absorption field or filtration field with your own hands.
2. Correct filter well.
3. How to do it protection of sewerage from freezing.
4. Sewer ventilation

More articles on this topic:

Where to direct sewer drains in a private house

Where should sewerage be directed in a private home?

Living in your private house without sewerage will be at least uncomfortable.

As a rule, its installation takes place during the construction stages. Although there are exceptions.

And sewerage for a private house, as the craftsmen correctly note, is most often installed after the building is built.

Schemes and types

In large houses with many rooms (bathrooms, toilets, kitchen, etc.), a scheme with at least two septic tanks is usually used.

If it is possible to join the central sewer system, then this must be done, despite the subsequent impressive fees.

If not, you will have to build an autonomous sewer system.

Internal sewerage: diagram and specifics

When creating a project, you need to take into account the premises that need sewerage. They are located in one location on each floor. With this layout it is easier to lay pipes. Although a personal project is created for each home.

Here you can create the scheme yourself. Of course, this will not be a professional and detailed development, like that of specialists. But if you act wisely, you can use it to lay a pipeline and determine the required amount of equipment and materials.

A house plan is a must here. Identify positions for the sewer pipeline (STP), riser(s) and all plumbing fixtures. On the diagram, indicate the shaped elements for the pipeline and the distances from these elements to the riser and plumbing fixtures. Decide on the required number of connecting components. This work is carried out on each floor.

Advice: be sure to calculate how many pipes of different diameters and connecting components are needed.

Required diameters:

1. For a riser or heating system, as well as an outlet block for draining wastewater coming from the bathroom - 10–11 cm.
2. For drains from the kitchen and bathroom, a 5 cm pipe is used.
3. Turns in the sewer should be made with two elbows. The angle of their position is 45°. This will help prevent blockages.

Material

Typically these are pipes made of cast iron, polypropylene or PVC. The first ones are considered standard. They cope with impressive loads. Their durability and reliability is amazing.

But today, products made from the other two specified materials are becoming increasingly famous. Their cost is more attractive, and installation is much easier.

Polypropylene products are purchased very often. Buyers like their flexibility and modest weight, and resistance to high temperatures waste water

Important to know: It is worth noting that products made of PVC and polypropylene are installed only inside the house. Cast iron analogues can be laid outside.

Pipes made from all these materials will last a very long time if used correctly.

Species

Typically, according to the method of operation, sewerage is divided into mixed and separate. Most often, the first type works in private homes.

Types of sewerage according to the method of wastewater disposal: gravity and pressure. The second requires enormous expenses and effort. Therefore, the popularity of the first is much higher.

Thus, mixed gravity sewerage is usually installed in private houses.

Installation

An assistant is required for this work. Work takes place with polypropylene pipes. Their diameters are 5 and 10 cm. Other necessary things: revisions, tees and elbows, as well as sleeves, clamps for fastening these pipes, rubber cuffs, glue.

The sleeves are placed in those areas where the system intersects the walls or ceiling. Rubber cuffs are applied to the connection areas. And powerful insulation is done there using plumbing sealant.

The pipes are laid with some slope. These are SNiP requirements. For this case slope – 2–3%. It is largely determined by the diameter of the pipe. The percentage here is the slope calculated in cm/1 line. meter. For pipes with a more modest diameter, the slope is 3%. Only by observing this rule can a functioning internal sewage system be installed efficiently.

And a slope of less than 2% and more than 3% is also unacceptable. In the first situation, solid elements will remain on the walls of the pipes, and a blockage will form. In the second case, the flow of drainage in these pipes will gain too much speed, and the wastewater will be divided into fractions, and solid elements will settle.

To connect such pipes, glue or rubber seals are used.

Note: For work you will also need a soldering iron and a hammer drill.

The work starts from the outlet - the area where the internal and external sewers converge. By starting this way, you will prevent these systems from becoming inconsistent. The outlet is installed through the foundation. If it is carried out at a depth below the freezing depth of the soil in your area, then the pipe must be thermally insulated. Otherwise, the outlet will stiffen, and the sewage system will only be able to work in warm weather.

If there is no outlet hole in the foundation, you need to create one.

The required diameter of the sleeve is 13 cm. The sleeve protrudes from each side of the base by at least 15 cm. The hole and installation of the sleeve proceeds with a slope of 2% for the external sewerage next to the septic tank. The diameter of the outlet must coincide with the diameter of the riser.

The best position for a riser is in the bathroom. So the outlet section for eliminating waste from the toilet will be short. The following trend applies here: the larger the diameter of the outlet section and plumbing. device, the closer its position to the riser.

The laying method is a personal matter. You can install it in boxes, in walls, or use the open method. For installation of pipes with a riser, oblique tees are used. If your diagram contains a point where the outlets from the shower, bathtub and sink converge, then installation of a collector pipe is needed there. Its diameter is 10 cm.

To protect your home from unpleasant odors, install water seals. The inspection must be mounted on each riser. Each sewer turn must end with cleaning. So, if the sewer is clogged, it will be easier to clean it.

The riser continues upward in the form of a fan pipe. First, a revision is placed at the point of its installation. After which this pipe is led to the roof. Its combination with home ventilation is not allowed.

The exit must exceed the ridge of the roof, at least 70 cm from the roof and at a distance of 4 m from the windows. Ventilation, chimney and the exhaust pipe itself must differ in height.

After installing the internal sewerage system, it must be thoroughly flushed with clean water. This way the tightness of all connections is tested.

External sewerage

Such a sewer system is a network of pipes from the outlet block to the septic tank or treatment station. The pipes here are laid underground.

The pipes must have impressive rigidity and withstand the impact of the soil. And it is also better to lay brightly colored pipes so that they are easier to notice in the depths. The diameter of such pipes is 11 cm.

There are different types of external ventilation. The most primitive are cesspools and storage systems where wastewater is collected. Today, preference is increasingly given to various septic tanks and total treatment stations.

Two-chamber septic tank

Types of septic tanks:

1. Two-chamber.
2. Three-chamber.
3. With biofilter.
4. With one chamber and soil purification.

The septic tank is selected based on:

1. The needs of all residents of the house.
2. The number of these residents.
3. Type of residence: permanent or temporary.
4. Approximate water consumption. This refers to how much water each resident spends daily. The number of plumbing fixtures in the house and whether there are household appliances are also important here.
5. Groundwater level in your area.
6. Parameters of the territory itself. Here the areas for treatment equipment are calculated.
7. Soil type.
8. The climate in your area.

System example:

Which septic tank or treatment plant you should buy is also a matter of your budget. It also wouldn’t hurt to consult with experts.

It is also important to take into account some criteria regarding the location of such equipment:

1. The garden and septic tank must be separated by at least 8 m.
2. Any water source and septic tank are separated by at least 20 m.
3. A residential building and a septic tank are separated by at least 5 m.

The main dilemma in organizing external sewerage is the competent choice of treatment technology. Earthworks and the gasket do not cause any particular difficulties.

Regarding general scheme external sewage system, then it must include:

• a system of trays where waste is concentrated;
• waste disposal channels to the disposal point;
• settling tank (cesspool).

Algorithm for installing external sewerage:

1. Creating a trench. It connects the house drains to the sump. Trench slope: 2 cm/1 m of pipe in the direction of the cesspool.
2. The bottom of the trench is covered with a sand cushion. Layer -10–15 cm.
3. A pipeline is laid along this cushion close to the storage tank.
4. The connecting point of the pipe with the septic tank is sealed: the pipe is laid along an oval of cords. The cord is treated with grease.

Requirements for sewerage in a private house

1. For installation, use materials with the required parameters.
2. Make a diagram taking into account all the necessary factors.
3. Do not use low quality pipes.
4. Do not clog the drain with heavy waste.
5. Design the sewer system at the same time as designing the house itself.
6. Install sewerage during construction stages. This best option. If it was not followed, the solution methods have already been outlined above.

How to make a sewer system in a private house, see the tips in the following video: