Is it possible to make beds? Raised beds: how and what to make from

It is not a complicated process, but before starting work you need to learn some subtleties. It is important to choose the right material for the structure, taking into account all the advantages and disadvantages. The installation of the fence must be consistent, otherwise a number of mistakes can be made. In this article I will try to analyze all these points in detail.

Why do we need fencing for garden beds?

Before you start building fences, you need to understand what important functions they perform. Among the functions of fencing for garden beds, the following positions are distinguished:

  1. Protection from mechanical damage;
  2. Reducing the number of weeds;
  3. Prevention of shedding (especially important when loose sandy soil predominates on the site);
  4. Box formation;
  5. Decorative function.

Types of fencing for garden beds


Fences for garden beds vary in the material from which they are made. And each material, in turn, has a number of advantages and disadvantages. We'll talk more about the most common materials for fencing below.

Stone fencing for garden beds

Natural material, can be easily collected on the banks of rivers. It is not easy to match stones to the same size, so cementing may be required. If you lay out the cobblestones in several layers, you can achieve a fairly high structure that will not allow weeds to disturb your plantings. Stone beds will have quite a lot of weight and sink into the ground. To avoid such a situation, you can dig a trench around the perimeter of the bed and then lay sand or gravel in it.


Fencing for beds made of twigs

Wooden rods are another natural material, serving as a basis for fencing. To give the fence a shape, you need to prepare pegs of a certain height. Branches should be selected at least 1 meter in size. Plastic pipe can become a shelter for pegs - this is necessary in order to prevent the process of rotting. When the pegs are securely fixed in the ground, you can proceed to weaving the fence.

Brick fencing for garden beds

Bricks left over from other structures will be a suitable building material for constructing a fence for the garden bed. First you need to prepare a shallow foundation and fill it with cement. Brick laying in progress in different ways: horizontal, vertical, flat or sideways. If your house or bathhouse is also made of brick, then such beds will fit perfectly into the design of the site, especially if the pattern and method of laying bricks on the fences repeats the masonry on the building. Brick is an environmentally friendly material. Moreover, it is easy to work with. Renewal of such beds does not occur often, since the material is durable, which is another advantage of using brick in country house construction.


Wooden fencing for garden beds

Wooden fences are the most common. This material is very pliable for work and is environmentally friendly, but is not resistant to rotting. Using protective varnishes and solutions, you can extend the service life of wooden fences. Depending on the type of wood, there are several types of wooden fencing:

  1. Beam. The fairly high cost is compensated by reliability and durability.
  2. Boards. Affordable material in terms of price. The boards can simply be placed on the sides of the bed and secured with pegs or bricks. The advantage of this method would be quick assembly and disassembly of the structure, the downside is fragility. To strengthen the fence you will need metal corners.
  3. Logs. Beds built from logs are similar in properties to beds made from timber. The advantage of this method is the possibility of using cut trees and, accordingly, saving on the purchase of materials.

Pay attention to the increased hygroscopicity (humidity) of the wood. During the season of melting snow or long rains, fungus may appear on the wood. Rotting of the material not only gradually destroys the structure, but also increases the acidity of the soil, and this can lead to undesirable consequences for plants.


Metal fencing for garden beds

The main advantage of such fences is obvious - the design is very durable. Most often used sheet metal, characterized by its flexibility. There are also disadvantages: the sun increases the temperature of the material, which transmits it to the soil. Thus, the soil can become too dry, which has a negative effect on the plants. When building metal beds, it is better to take care of shading the fence in advance. When building garden fences from sheet or profile iron, it is better to take care of the top edge, because the left teeth can cause some inconvenience. Instead of rotting wooden structures, metal has the property of rusting. This drawback can be eliminated either by using special coatings or by choosing a stainless material.


Concrete fencing for garden beds

Concrete fencing is most often used on uneven surfaces. Beds located on slopes are a common occurrence, so this material contributes to additional strengthening of the structure. You can use both blocks and slabs, and pouring mortar. Concrete curbs can be easily decorated with tiles. Another advantage of such fences is their high reliability, but it is worth considering the fact that you will not be able to quickly dismantle the building.

Slate fencing for garden beds

In most dacha plots you will find unnecessary remains of slate used in everyday life and for dacha affairs. This material can no longer be used for roofing, but it is suitable as a basis for fences in the best possible way. Slate is easy to use. Remember that slate is a very fragile material and tends to break due to loads, but its strength will be quite sufficient for fencing beds. The main thing is to carefully transport and install slate sheets.


Plastic fencing for garden beds

Plastic bottles and containers can also be used to fence your garden beds. To make them heavier, bottles installed in the ground are filled with sand, crushed stone, gravel or ordinary soil. This design is not particularly durable and reliable, but the cost of fencing is in this case will be extremely low. You can purchase ready-made plastic sides that are lightweight and impact-resistant. Plastic is resistant to low temperatures and moisture, but you need to choose quality material. Neglecting this recommendation can result in a fence that will become cracked when exposed to frost, and deformed when exposed to high temperatures. In this case, it will be necessary to dismantle the structure almost every season. Polycarbonate is often used to build greenhouses, which means you can find leftover material on your property and use it to create fences for garden beds.

How to make fences for garden beds with your own hands


The process of creating fences for your beds is not complicated, but it requires a competent and patient approach. I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the recommendations for constructing a structure made of wood, as the most affordable, simple and durable structure. Step by step instructions consists of several important stages.

  • The first stage is theoretical; you need to understand what shape and size of the bed you would like to get. Apply markings to the area, cut the wood, focusing on the measurements and markings. The easiest way to fix the boards together is with regular nails, but you can use metal corners, which will provide additional strength to the frame.
  • I advise you to also make legs for the box, but this is not necessary. If you are going to dig down the sides of the box by only 1-2 cm, then the legs will not be needed. If the structure is dug into the ground to a great depth, then nail thick pegs with pointed ends to the corners of the boards. If necessary, you can increase the number of such legs, which will ensure greater stability of the structure.


  • Prime the boards, as this will protect them from the sun, water, fungus and other climatic effects. In addition to buying building material in the store, you can make it yourself; you only need a piece of laundry soap and quicklime. Combine one kg of lime with two liters of water. Grind 150-200 grams of soap and pour hot water. After this, the solution is mixed with the previously obtained mixture. Such a primer will be cheaper than store-bought material, but will be inferior in its protective properties.
  • The next step is application. This treatment will improve the appearance of the fence and also protect the structure from unwanted weather influences.


  • The box can be installed in two ways. The first involves placing it directly on the soil and further filling it with soil. In the second option, you need to build a fence with a recess. Place the box in the chosen place and dig it up with outside. Next, remove the box and dig up the soil inside the future bed. Return the box and secure it with earth.
  • In order for the soil to settle, fill the bed with soil and water it.

From all of the above, some conclusions can be drawn. First, build your garden bed fence based on your personal preferences and the materials you have available. If there are unused bricks or bottles on the site, use them. Secondly, pay attention to the advantages and disadvantages of each type of building material. And most importantly, take a responsible approach to the creation and installation of the structure itself. By following all the requirements, you will reliably protect your plants from various damages and weeds, and also decorate your site.

Many summer residents suffer because the groundwater in the area is too high. Excessive soil moisture is not suitable for all plants; many develop poorly or even die. You can solve the problem by making high beds. With this arrangement of plantings, it is possible to control the degree of humidity. And a pleasant bonus to this decision will be an earlier ripening period and a much larger harvest.

Advantages and disadvantages

In addition to solving problems with waterlogging, high beds in the garden allow you to sow or plant plants 2-3 weeks earlier: raised above the ground, they warm up more actively due to the fact that the sun warms the walls. This is further facilitated by the decomposition processes occurring in plant waste, which constitute a significant part of the backfill. That is why such beds are also called warm. If you place arcs on such a bed and cover them with spunbond or other similar material, then the harvest can be harvested even earlier.

The device is more problematic in regions with hot climates. The task in this case is not to better heat the earth, but to keep it from overheating. But this can also be solved: use materials with poor thermal conductivity, for example, wood, to fence high beds. For a better effect, you can make double walls, between which you can fill, for example, sawdust, lay polystyrene foam, or you can leave an air gap - better thermal insulation. In hot climates, it is better to paint the outer wall with white paint or whitewash it. It is known that light-colored surfaces heat up less. In this case, it will be possible to keep the root system from overheating: in the south the earth sometimes gets very hot and the higher the plant is, the cooler it will be. You can also stretch the same covering material over the beds. It not only retains heat, but also protects against overheating.

Raised beds can also be a good solution on infertile lands. It is more convenient to lay out the imported soil in beds rather than distribute it over the entire site. The compost layer, which is located under the soil layer, contributes to maintaining fertility.

The problem of arid regions is also being solved. In this case, the fence for a high bed is coated with bitumen mastic from the inside or covered with film, and a roll is laid on the bottom (on the mesh). waterproofing material(roofing felt will rot quickly, so it’s better to use some modern type of waterproofing agent). It will not be possible to achieve complete waterproofing, but it will be possible to retain moisture inside in sufficient quantities - yes.

Carrots - one to one. The best one is in a high bed, although the same variety was planted in a regular bed

As you can see, with a balanced approach, almost any problem can be solved. Raised beds have few disadvantages, but they are not without them:

  • In most cases, you have to make a fence, and this costs money.
  • The complexity of the process. Again, it takes time to make fences, and there is also a fair amount of earth and plant debris to move around, which is hard work.
  • Mole crickets and other similar animals thrive in rotting leaves, branches, and bark. We have to fight them.
  • Fertility has to be maintained by updating or completely replacing the “filling”.

That's all the shortcomings. If you decide to arrange raised beds, be prepared for a considerable amount of work. But the harvest will be many times greater. You can make one or two beds for testing. And then decide whether you need them or not.

Dimensions

On one site there are very high beds and not very...

So, the dimensions of the raised beds are:

  • Height - from 20 cm to 50-60 cm. Look here what a difficult task it turns out to be. The higher the bed is raised, the easier it is to process - less bending. But more land and all the other “fillings” will be required. One more point: if a small bed may be covered with snow and will be covered from severe frosts, then a tall one will freeze through: the sides will also be open. For those beds where annuals are sown, this does not play any role, but for perennial strawberries, let’s say, this is a problem. Therefore, the height is chosen based on these considerations. According to the experience of many gardeners for strawberries optimal height- 20 cm. Then we can hope that it will not freeze.
  • Width - from 60 cm to 1.2 m. Choose a distance so that it is convenient for you to cultivate the bed. A distance of 60-70 cm is chosen if the approach to the bed is only from one side. If you can reach it from both sides, you can make it a meter or more. It is important that the middle is processed without much stress.
  • Length. Here everyone chooses based on the configuration of the site or their desire. There are no recommendations at all.

To prevent the bed from being too high, part of it can be buried: bury it 20-30 cm, and then put walls on top. The removed soil will be used for backfilling (there is often simply not enough soil), and the substrate from the lower coarse layers can be made thicker. And to minimize the cost of maintaining such a bed, you can.

How can you fence high beds?

You can use anything that can hold the soil. The most durable curbs are made from brick, stone and concrete.

But brick costs a lot, and it takes a long time to work with concrete. A concrete fence is made according to all the rules: first, formwork in which the reinforcement is laid, then it is poured with concrete and they wait until it sets. But the service life is impressive - decades.

Concrete garden bed fences are the most durable and will never “float”

Brick and stone fencing is also built according to all the rules: with mortar and bandaging. To reduce brick consumption, the walls are laid in half a brick. And so that the earth does not move it, the rows are reinforced with mesh.

But even in this option, you will need to install a meter support pillars. If your soil is viscous, heavy, and often waterlogged, such walls can be squeezed out. Therefore, put wooden or metal supports that will fix long walls or make small beds, as for

Fence for high beds made of expanded clay concrete blocks

They also make fences for high beds from galvanized metal and slate. You can use used slate, you can buy new, wave or smooth - it doesn’t matter. Cut the sheets into strips of the required width. There is no need to fear that it is harmful. Slate contains asbestos in a bound state, and it does not dissolve with water. It is harmful when it is sawed: dust rises and enters the body through the respiratory tract. To reduce the risk, wear a respirator and wet the incision area.

They make fences for the garden beds from plastic. Have you changed the siding? Use it. There are old plastic panels - they are used. But plastic requires a rigid base. It is made from a metal mesh made of thick wire.

The grids can become the basis for pebbles or pellets. Only in this case will you need a double frame, inside of which stones or some other material is poured. This technique is called “gabion” and it is used to make not only fences for garden beds and gardens, but also fences. But to prevent water from seeping through the walls from the gabion beds, the inside of the box is lined with a thick film.

The most popular fencing is made of wood. You can use boards, timber, logs. Wood is good for everything, except that it rots.

And since all the conditions have been created in high beds to activate this process, destruction occurs quite quickly. You can slow down the process somewhat by painting the boards or impregnating them with a bioprotective composition. But there is still no guarantee against destruction.

But you can use cheap, and sometimes even waste, material: leftovers from construction, slabs, old logs, pallets, etc. If desired, you can even make a fence from branches. It is only advisable to remove the bark: it is under it that there are many larvae and woodworms. Although...they will also process the wood debris that you place at the bottom of the backfill. But you don’t need too many of them either, so it’s probably better to remove the bark.

From the same branches, only freshly cut, you can make a wicker fence. And it will also need to be lined with film from the inside: to keep water and earth inside.

You can even use straw. It is tied into small bundles, which are connected to each other using wire. It simply couldn’t be cheaper, and it holds water and temperature well. The only disadvantage of this option is that such a fence will last for a maximum of two seasons, but rather one. But it can then be used as one of the layers.

There are high beds without a fence: the so-called bulk beds. The soil in them is poured in the form of hills.

To improve drainage, branches are placed inside such a ridge. To reduce the height of the bed (for example, for tomatoes), it is deepened a little, throwing the soil to the side. After laying the branches, it is filled on top; there is often a need for additionally imported soil. If you cannot choose row spacing deeply.

The disadvantage of this type of garden: when watering and during rains top layer soil is washed away. That’s why they started making boxes - to avoid washing out the soil.

Layers of raised beds

Framing is only a small part of the job. The resulting box still needs to be filled. It must be said right away that the thickness of the layers depends on the height of the bed that you have chosen, so if any values ​​are given, they are purely approximate. In addition to the size of the bed, the thickness of the layer, for example, fertile, is influenced by the choice of plants: for some, 5 cm is enough, but for others, much more is needed.

So, what to pour into a high bed - layers from bottom to top:

  1. A metal mesh with a fine mesh or layer is placed at the bottom. You can put cardboard. Mesh and geotextiles - protection against rodents and moles. Cardboard plays approximately the same role, but it is less effective.
  2. Large woody debris: thick branches, twigs, even logs and bars. This layer serves, firstly, for drainage, and secondly, moisture accumulates in the wood. The drier the climate in your region, the more wood you need. Moreover, the following wood layers too.
  3. Chopped small branches, bark. Other coarse plant debris will work: corn stalks, straw. Their task is also twofold. They store water and, when decomposed, release heat and nutrients. But when using corn trunks and straw, keep in mind that the bed will soon sink: these remains will quickly rot, but the yield will be high, and you can add fertile soil on top.
  4. Paper, thin cardboard. It is usually lined with a thin layer. Packaging cardboard is used more often, because glossy paper is not suitable, just like newspapers: lead paint is not at all what you need to fertilize plants with. If you have old unnecessary burlap (natural), you can lay it down.
  5. Layer of plant residues: foliage, grass, semi-decomposed sawdust. Be careful with sawdust: they strongly acidify the soil. So sprinkle them under plants that like acidic soil, or neutralize the acidity by covering them with a good layer of ash.
  6. Fertile land.

You can add a good portion of mature compost to the last two layers, as well as sprinkle it into the deeper layers. This will speed up the “readiness” of the raised bed for planting.

When is the best time to do it and what to plant?

It is better to fill a high bed in the fall. During this period, there will be enough “material” and over the winter the processes inside will gain momentum. In this case, you can plant plants in the spring and hope for a high harvest. It can be done in the spring, but there are unlikely to be any significant differences in yield: the processes have just begun and will not have a noticeable effect on the fertility of the backfill. Although you will definitely feel the difference in the amount of water for irrigation: much less water is required.

One of the options for a high bed: metal mesh and reinforced polyethylene film

Plant rotation

In the year a high bed is installed, plants that require high fertility can be planted on it: cucumbers, zucchini, zucchini, pumpkin, any type of cabbage, eggplant, tomatoes, sweet pepper. The next year you can plant greens - spicy-aromatic and leafy. Root crops feel good in the second year.

After the second harvest, fertility must be restored. If the contents of the bed have sagged, in the fall they add good soil mixed with mature compost. If there is nowhere to add more, remove part of the top layer (on compost heap or into another box as part of the backfill) and replace it with fresh soil with fertilizers.

High bed for strawberries

It differs only in that covering material is spread over the finished “pie”. Holes are made in it into which plants are planted. This option leads to the fact that moisture evaporates in minimal quantities, and weeds do not grow in the aisles. The second option - mulching the soil also works well, but evaporation is more intense.

The peculiarity of strawberries is that their roots are located mainly on the surface. Therefore, the fertile layer may be small. But this same feature leads to the fact that in severe frosts it can die. Although a decomposition process is taking place inside the high bed, warming the soil, if the bed is without snow and not covered for the winter, the root system may freeze.

High bed for cucumbers and tomatoes

In terms of its structure, it is no different. The only reason is that poles and crossbars or stretched wire are needed at the edges so that you can tie up tomato bushes or cucumber vines.

DIY raised beds

Most often, questions arise not when laying layers in high beds, but when making the box. Since women are often involved in gardening, including making fences for garden beds, many aspects may not be clear to them. To clarify the most difficult ones, we present photo reports of making boxes from boards and slate - the most common fencing.

From boards

Several options for how to make high beds from boards were in the photo above. The main problem is usually the connection in the corners. The easiest way is to overlap them: just put one to the other at 90° and nail them all the way through. But there are aesthetes who strive to do everything right. The correct way is to cut two boards at an angle of 45° and connect them that way. This is exactly the option that will be demonstrated in the photo.

To make it convenient to fix the fence on the ground, vertical bars or pieces of board are nailed in increments of 1.2-1.5 m, the length of which is approximately 20 cm greater than the selected height of the bed.

The lower end of the block or board needs to be sharpened - this will make it easier to hammer the fence into the ground. Then take a miter box or circular saw and cut the edges at an angle of 45°. Putting two boards together we get perfect angle 90°.

For a strong connection, we install a block on the inside of the corner, to which we nail the boards.

This is what happened. It just lies with its “burdens” up. They are driven into the ground

It doesn’t take long to make a fence for high beds made of wood, but it’s even easier to join the boards end-to-end and nail metal corners for strength (pictured below).

From logs

It is no more difficult to make a similar box from hewn logs. For example, this option: two long sides are made of logs, and short sides are made of pieces of boards.

Whitewash the finished fence: both protection from pests and a more attractive appearance.

From slate

When making beds from flat or wave slate, questions also arise about how to secure it. The easiest way is to dig it in. But this is not economical: you will have to make the stripes at least 10 cm wider and there is still no guarantee that the slate will not “float” in the spring. In the muddy ground it will simply be squeezed out en masse. It can be fixed, but it will take extra time and effort.

Therefore, most often, corners or pipes are driven in on one or both sides of the sheet, which clamp the slate and prevent it from deviating much. In the photo, the corners are driven in only from the outside: from the inside, the mass of layers of the high bed will press, so that the fence will not fall inward.

The junction of two sheets is secured with a special welded plate. For reliability, they can be bolted to a wooden block attached to that side.

A piece of reinforcement with a welded plate - to insure the junction of two sheets flat slate

Another option is to make a frame. Attach a beam or corner to similar racks with welded plates - whichever is cheaper. And attach slate cut into strips to this frame (it holds well with nails, but it’s easier with self-tapping screws).

Frame made of timber in a fence for a high bed

Using the same principle - with guides - they make beds from plastic panels and other similar materials. As you understand, there is no need for particularly virtuoso skill here. The main thing is that it holds up well.


You can easily determine whether you are a keen gardener by looking at the fencing for your garden beds. Ideas for such design can be very different, as well as the materials used for these purposes. And the beds themselves can be very original. Review possible options And practical recommendations The editors of HouseChief have prepared for you on this topic together with authors who are constantly looking for creative ideas.

A vegetable bed can become a real decoration of the landscape if you approach its design correctly
PHOTO: dm-st.ru

Read in the article

Why do garden beds need fencing?

Not everyone uses fencing for their garden beds. If you have a very large garden and you grow vegetables for sale, you use various mechanisms for processing. In this case, you will have to abandon aesthetics in favor of practicality. Such areas are plowed with mini-tractors and require mechanized weeding and fertilization.


Any obstacles to the operation of the mechanisms in this case are unacceptable
PHOTO: wetzavet.ru

But if you have a small garden, which mainly uses manual labor, then the most convenient option will be . They are easy to handle. This is noted by everyone who has tried such designs. There is less strain on your back because you don’t have to bend all the way to the ground. And the higher the site, the easier it is to process and weed it manually.

Raised beds are convenient for older people and those who suffer from back problems
PHOTO: avatars.mds.yandex.net

Raised beds are often used if there are problems with soil fertility on the site. You can pour imported humus soil into a raised box, add compost, or use other popular methods that increase the yield of plantings.


This is a smooth or wavy material in rolls, which is sold in specialized gardening stores.
PHOTO: roomester.ru

There are border strips different lengths and width. They differ in the density of the plastic. Soft and low ribbons are considered the most impractical. They serve more as a decorative fence for a flower garden, but are not suitable for a full-fledged garden bed. If your choice falls on curb tape, choose the thickest possible plastic and take a height of 30 cm, since for a stable position you need to dig the tape into the ground to a depth of at least 15-20 cm.


Curb tape won't hold large mass land, such beds can be raised by a maximum of 10 cm
PHOTO: ozon-st.cdn.ngenix.net.

On sale you will also find ready-made sides for. They look very neat and attractive, but for the price they are not the most best option. In addition, when purchasing such fences, you will be bound by the size suggested by the manufacturer.


Otherwise, these sides are very practical: they last a long time, are not afraid of precipitation and temperature changes, and are not damaged by insects
PHOTO: the-first.info

Finally, borders can be made of polycarbonate. This is very convenient, especially if you have leftovers after building a gazebo or greenhouse. Polycarbonate can be mounted on metal corners or on timber posts.

Fences made of bricks, blocks or stones

If you don't mind capital construction in your garden, consider using bricks or blocks. Not everyone decides to take such a step, because later it will be difficult to remake the finished beds in size or location. Therefore, before deciding on this option, think carefully about everything: the location, size of the beds and their watering system.


Capital beds are usually made after many years of experience in gardening in one area
PHOTO: lateres.ru

In principle, it is not necessary to build for such structures, because they do not bear any load. But there is a danger that even a couple of rows can crack during seasonal soil movement. To prevent this from happening, the masonry should be mounted on columnar foundation from concrete or even wooden poles and grillage.

The same principle underlies the construction of a border made of cinder blocks or foam concrete blocks.


Hollow blocks can also be used for construction.
PHOTO: united-fellowship-chapel.com

But remember: foam concrete blocks can accumulate moisture, so it is better to cover them with a layer of waterproofing, at least from the inside of the masonry, so that the moistened soil does not destroy the blocks.

Masonry is also from the field of capital construction. Stones can be laid using cement mortar. Such fences look very massive and will last a very long time.


Interesting idea: use a mesh as a frame and fill it with pebbles
PHOTO: vodakanazer.ru

Important! Anyspeciescapital masonry retains moisture in the bed. So that your plantings do not die, need to think over the drainage system. To do this, the space under the bed is deepened by 15-20 cm and a sand and gravel cushion is installed. And so that the soil does not spill through it, the pillow is covered with a layer of geofabric.

Metal borders

Metal fencing is perhaps not the best option. First of all, it's not cheap. It is not worth purchasing metal specifically for such purposes. And one more thing - iron, when in contact with the ground, rusts very quickly and loses its attractiveness and, finally, integrity. In addition, it cannot be called warm. It makes sense to use such borders only if you have pieces of metal profile left after building a fence or roof. The metal profile is coated with a special polymer composition and only the cut area remains vulnerable, which you can protect with paint or varnish.


On sale you can find galvanized curbs that are assembled using bolts
PHOTO: msk.by

Available materials for fencing

You can use scrap materials that you have at your disposal to make fences.

Plastic and glass containers

Plastic bottles are trash that constantly accumulates in any home. They can be reused as material for numerous crafts. There is an option to use them for the construction of borders. To do this, “one and a half” are dug into the ground with their necks no less than halfway. To make such a border durable and not fly away with the first wind, it is better to fill the bottles with sand or at least water. And to make the fence look like one whole, it can be painted.


Such fences can have the most intricate shapes
PHOTO: avatars.mds.yandex.net

Glass bottles You don’t have to fill them, they are already heavy. And they dig them in the same way, with their necks in the ground.


In the process of collecting material for such a border, it is important to protect your health
PHOTO: 1000000diy.ru.

Plastic pipes

Can be used for borders and plastic sewer pipes. They, like bottles, are dug into the ground, and to strengthen the structure, you can fill them with the same soil. The result is a strong and durable fence.


The pipes can be cut lengthwise and installed this way
PHOTO: 1.bp.blogspot.com

Car tires

Tires are another popular option for fencing flower beds and beds. They are cut in half and dug into the ground. Such a fence is purely decorative, so it is unlikely to be able to hold the soil. But here, too, you can use geofabric to hold it.


You can complicate the task a little by cutting the tires into strips and fastening them together
PHOTO: roomester.ru

In addition, there is a short video course on modern fencing material: wood-polymer composite.

What kind of borders are in your beds? Maybe you can recommend some other materials for making them? Write about it in the comments, it's very interesting!

When spending a long time at the dacha, many city residents strive to plant not only ornamental plants and fruit trees, but also vegetable crops. For this purpose, a vegetable garden is planted on the site. In such a situation, there is a need for proper arrangement of beds.

When creating them using a variety of shapes and fences, it is possible to obtain non-standard decorative solutions, which turn the garden corner into the highlight of the entire summer cottage.

Preparation stage

When choosing a place for beds, they are guided by the degree of shade tolerance of a particular type of vegetable and green crops. Usually good lighting is required, so choose a sunny place, away from tall trees and country buildings.

In this case, it is advisable to avoid lowlands with close ground aquifers, since constant stagnation of moisture has a detrimental effect on the root system.

It is not recommended to arrange ridges on slopes, as they do not retain water, and the plants will constantly experience moisture deficiency. Their optimal placement is from south to north, which will ensure uniform lighting and heating of the surface throughout the day.

Before calculating the area of ​​the future vegetable garden, think through the main dimensions of the beds. There are several varieties:

  1. Classic version. For standard rectangular beds, it is recommended to have a width of 0.8-1.0 m and a height of 50 cm. The minimum length is 1.5 m. Leave row spacing of about 40 cm.
  2. Large ridges. They are made for unpretentious crops that do not need frequent weeding, such as pumpkin, zucchini, beans or potatoes. The shape can be square or rectangular with optimal area in 12 m2.
  3. Knollikovye. High (85-100 cm) elongated mounds are poured. Their length is not regulated, limited by the dimensions of the garden. The top surface is made flat. To retain moisture, several depressions are made.
  4. High. Ridges up to 1.5 m high must have a fence. In the standard version, a box of the desired shape is constructed, on the bottom of which is placed metal mesh from rodents and pour a crushed stone drainage layer. Then fill with soil mixture, not reaching 50 mm to the top cut. Plants on such structures will need more frequent watering than usual.
  5. Deep. Pre-dig a trench. Fill it with rotted manure, compost with the addition of peat. Pour soil up to 25 cm high.
  6. Narrow. The width for such beds is selected in such a way as to plant vegetables or herbs in one row. They are often built in greenhouses or small areas.

Important! When planning a specific version of the beds, the characteristics of the plants are taken into account. For example, high or hilly ridges are not suitable for moisture-loving plants. Heat-loving pumpkins, cucumbers and zucchini will develop well here. The configuration can be not only the standard rectangular one. Triangular, trapezoidal, diamond-shaped, oval and even round mounds for vegetables look original.

Multi-level beds

To achieve rational placement of vegetable crops in small areas, as well as to obtain a decorative effect, multi-level structures are created. The number of such structures is usually limited, since it is more difficult to care for plants. For planting, crops with a shallow, underdeveloped root system are selected.

Parsley, lettuce, and dill adapt well in such conditions. Low-growing compact tomato bushes can be placed. Strawberries are often grown in multi-level structures, allowing the ripening berries to be prevented from coming into contact with the soil, which contributes to their excellent presentation and good preservation.

To create multi-tiered beds, wood is often used, from which special pallets and racks are assembled. It is not advisable to use metal parts, as they quickly heat up under sun rays. The soil in such structures quickly loses moisture. If a decision is made to install metal multi-tiered beds, you should paint the parts with light paint.

Used for vertical beds and available components: containers, boxes, racks, shelves, installed in various compositions. You can even adapt a chest of drawers, pots various configurations and dimensions, pipe cuttings, tires.

Fencing beds

In an effort to create country garden aesthetic decorative general view, when arranging beds, you need to think about their shape, size, and framing. The material selected for the tracks also plays a role.

Advantages of fencing for garden beds

  • Gives the area a neat appearance;
  • There is an opportunity to dream up and use non-standard solutions;
  • Available materials are used, which makes the arrangement of fencing economically profitable;
  • Weeding is simplified;
  • The beds do not crumble, which allows for better moisture retention;
  • The advantages include the ability to choose ones that harmoniously fit into the landscape color combinations, create a certain thoughtful composition.

Important! For fencing beds, you should select safe material, which does not emit toxic compounds during operation.

Metal fencing
Wooden box beds
Board fencing

Slate fencing
Plastic fencing
Edged board fencing

Wooden fencing

Wood attracts with ease of processing and simple installation. But this material is short-lived. The prepared parts should first be treated with impregnation to prevent rotting.

To make your own garden beds with wooden fencing, you use various parts. These can be vertically dug narrow dies, pegs, or cuttings of logs. If the latter have large diameter, you should first saw them along the longitudinal center line. Unsanded birch logs look great.

You can weave a fence from willow twigs. Convenient to use are boards made from floor slats, slabs, planks, clapboards, and picket fences. They are easy to install, secured with stakes. If necessary, the fence can be quickly dismantled and moved.

Advice! If you plan to use the garden beds for more than one season, it is better to use high-quality wood material: dry bars, wide wooden panels, edged board, block house, thick lining.

Using slate

You can quickly create a neat frame for a bed of any configuration using flat slate. This is an inexpensive and durable material. Its fragility must be taken into account.

  1. First, mark and level the perimeter of the bed, making straight lines. It is advisable to check the joints using a square and control all dimensions.
  2. Cut slate sheets into strips and dig a trench so that its depth is equal to half the width of the prepared material.
  3. Install slate panels strictly vertically, fixing them together metal corners with a protective anti-corrosion layer.
  4. Gently sprinkle with soil, compacting each layer. Metal pegs are installed in several places on both sides of the slate fence, securing the structure.
  5. All that remains is to fill in interior space fertile soil, and a neat, aesthetically pleasing garden bed is ready.

Sheets of wavy slate, which give an interesting sound, are no less successfully used to make fences. The combination of two types of slate – flat and wavy – will diversify the decor.

Metal fences

Fences made of metal parts have a long service life. It is necessary to select options with corrosion protection.

A good option is an aesthetically pleasing profiled sheet of galvanized steel with a polymer surface coating. These types of fencing for garden beds will be quite expensive, but their cost will be offset by durability. The advantages of corrugated sheets include reliable protection against corrosion, a wide range of colors, and light weight.

Stone fencing

The beds, framed with stones of various sizes and shapes, look static and very decorative. This is a durable option. During installation, certain skills in laying such material are required if it is decided to use cement-sand mortar as a binding material.

More simple option is the filling of stones between metal gratings, which at the preparatory stage are strengthened along the perimeter of the ridges. Such pergons look noble, introducing an innovative sound even into an ordinary landscape.

Garden beds made of stone can easily withstand any external influences, are durable, and allow you to create any configuration and shape.

Border tape

Plastic curb tape is easy to install without requiring any special skills. Considering the variety of colors, this material looks very decent. Thanks to its flexibility, it allows you to frame beds of any configuration.

This material is frost-resistant and durable. Withstands shock loads and does not fade for a long time. To ensure the strength of such a fence, the tape is installed in a shallow trench, soil is sprinkled, compacted with palms, and plastic pegs are installed on both sides.

Concrete frames

For a static ridge that does not require transfer, it is advisable to create a concrete fence. The surface of the site is leveled, a ridge is marked and formwork is made. If desired, you can deepen it a little by digging a trench 10-15 cm deep.

Typically, boards or plywood scraps are used for formwork. Optimal width of the future fence is 15 cm. Pour cement-sand mortar and immerse the reinforcement in it. They wait a few days. When the concrete dries, remove the formwork and fill the interior space with soil.

What can you use to make garden beds at your dacha (ideas, photos)

Summer residents use other materials for fencing ridges. It could be a brick laid in various ways. It can be used in one piece, installed on an edge along a rectangular or square embankment. The bricks divided in half look interesting and are installed with the corners up, creating a dynamic design.

A budget option is plastic bottles that are dug vertically around the embankment with their necks up. Select different color variations. This can be a single-color fence or a frame made up of bottles with ripples different shades. Interesting view it turns out if you lay them horizontally.

If you have scraps of picket fence, it’s easy to build a small decorative fence. Foam blocks are also used as fencing.

Design of paths

Paths between the beds play a role in creating a decorative ambiance for the vegetable garden. They can be loosened, weeded and compacted. Gravel and small stones are used for sprinkling. This option allows you to save the area from the spread of weeds.

Advice! If the material is pre-painted, it creates interesting composition. The vegetable garden becomes one of the central decorative corners of the surrounding dacha landscape.

Also used for paths paving slabs, metal sheets, wood flooring or self-cast concrete panels.

Arranging beds in a greenhouse

There are many options for placing beds inside a greenhouse. The classic method is to fill two large side ridges. They are separated by a central longitudinal and two transverse passages. This solution does not always provide enough space for plants, but it does provide access for care.

You can create three narrower mounds parallel to the long side of the greenhouse. With a small width of the beds, weeding, pinching, pruning and other methods of caring for plants are easier.

A convenient option is to make a wide ridge in the center. In this case, narrow embankments are left along the walls. If the greenhouse has slopes side surfaces, then tall crops are planted in the center, and compact bushes are placed in narrow beds.

The paths can be covered with a thick film, scraps of roofing felt, plywood, which prevents the germination of weeds. To prevent the ridges from crumbling, provide fencing for them.

Non-standard decorative vegetable garden at creative approach capable of decorating summer cottage plot. The size and configuration of the beds play a role. When designing, the materials used to make the fences are of decisive importance. They bring an important note to the creation of an overall harmonious and decorative look paths, which, if desired, can be made of color, wood, concrete, slabs.

Having even a small plot of land, it is so difficult to resist planting something that will subsequently grow and bear fruit. Summer residents know the wonderful feeling when you cut a salad from vegetables grown with your own hands, and make jam from freshly picked strawberries! Even if small, there were, are and will be garden beds on the plot. Usually the owner does not think too much about the design of the plantings, so the fences for the beds are made from available material, and they look simple. However, who doesn’t want to make the site beautiful and well-groomed? In addition, useful edges help the beds keep their shape, save water, and prevent the growth of weeds.

The edges around the perimeter of the beds give them a neat and civilized appearance. It is convenient when the areas for placing different plants are delimited. There is order everywhere, which does not need to be restored “from scratch” after every heavy rain. You can simply maintain it, spending a minimum of effort on care, watering, etc. Fences are usually made from leftover building materials.

Wood: elegant, but short-lived

Boards as fencing can be called a classic, often found option. Depending on the amount that the owner of the site intends to spend on resolving this issue, timber and picket fence, clapboard or slab can be used. The use of any wood will be appropriate. Even the branches left after pruning trees will find use.

For some time, such a fence will look very elegant. In the future, the wood may turn black and even become covered with fungus. Trying to whitewash the sides is ineffective because the whitewash will quickly be washed away by rain. The situation is even worse with paint: it cracks and peels off. It won’t even be able to solve the problem radically. After a few years, the dull sides will have to be replaced, because soil begins to spill out through the cracks formed.

Neat wooden sides give the beds a well-groomed and attractive appearance. At the same time, the most different wood: a wattle fence made from trimmed hazel branches looks very good and is inexpensive

Neat and expensive brick

Diagonal bricks were once in vogue. At one time, even city flower beds were edged this way. If you try, the teeth of the border will look neat and uniform. Such a fence can be whitewashed or even painted. AND garden paths, and the flower beds will receive reliable but expensive borders. After all, an old brick will not make the desired impression, but a new one can cost a decent amount.

Bricks can be installed not only diagonally, but also laid out in rows, the height of which depends on the parameters of the bed or flowerbed that is to be fenced

Slate under control

Slate is now used less and less for its intended purpose - as roofing material. If pieces of it remain after changing the covering, then they can be used for edging the beds. At one time, it was actively and widely used for these purposes too.

If anyone else is planning to throw out the old slate or put it in a shed for eternal storage, then let them admire these wonderful beds. After all, you can build such beauty yourself for practically nothing.

A slate edge will look neat if you simply press it into the ground so that the above-ground part rises to the same height along the entire perimeter. Slate can be broken into plates of the desired width. Covered with a layer of paint, it will even look elegant. The only negative is that thin slate will need to be kept under control and, in case of distortions after heavy rains, corrected.

A stone given by nature

Not only pieces of flat slate, but also various cobblestones look very impressive as a side. Of course, this is not a brick with a given shape once and for all. Here you will have to try, selecting stones according to size, combining them with each other and fastening them with cement mortar. But the result will be very impressive. This is a very aesthetic and, at the same time, durable fencing. The only drawback of this fence is that the heavy side can begin to settle into the ground under its own weight. Therefore, you also need to monitor his condition.

You will have to work hard with natural stone, but now you will see such beauty every day: the aesthetic pleasure is incomparable

These materials are truly traditional, we are used to seeing them on personal plots. But time does not stand still. New products appear, and old materials, whose price was unreasonably high, become more affordable. Let's look at modern fencing options.

Bed fences made of plastic

Plastic withstands seasonal temperature changes well, it is not hygroscopic and is not affected by precipitation.

Installing ready-made sides

The plastic fence is easy to install, easy to remove and replace. Such a fence, taking into account its affordability, can be considered ideal for small beds or flower beds. Plastic fences for beds of various shapes are good because they can fully correspond to the design of the site chosen by the owner. Sides can be selected according to color scheme and in height.

Plastic is not hygroscopic, it almost does not react to natural phenomena, does not rot and does not burn. At the same time, it can look whatever its owner wants

If the gardener wishes, you can choose a border that imitates wood, brick, or even natural stone. Both sectional and continuous fencing look great. Thanks to the legs, these fences can be easily fixed to the ground. There are also those for the installation of which special nails are used.

Border tape: affordable and simple

The most affordable border tape for garden beds is a tape-type fence with a corrugated surface, green or brown in color.

The advantages of curb tape are obvious:

  • it is easy to install;
  • it can be given the desired shape without cutting it into pieces;
  • they look very aesthetically pleasing;
  • The size of the tape is easily adjusted.

To install such a fence, you need a minimum of tools: a large stapler, scissors, a tape measure and a dustpan. The entire fencing process will not take much time. You should dig around the selected area, using a shovel to make a trench around its perimeter. We measure the required size of the tape and fasten its ends with a stapler. We place the fence in the trench at the selected depth, after which we fill the lower part of the tape with earth and compact it well.

A nice and laconic fencing made from border tape can be installed literally within an hour, and it will serve you for more than one season

If the curb length is significant, it is necessary to fix the position of the tape with pegs, which are alternately placed in front of the tape and behind it at an equal distance from each other.

Rubber curbs are laid using the same principle. Only for high beds such a side will not be suitable, because it is placed very low. Polycarbonate is also used as a material for fencing, the trimmings of which remain, for example, after making a canopy or building a greenhouse. But polycarbonate fencing is for country beds are rarely used, since it is not profitable to purchase material specifically for this purpose, and there is never a lot of scraps.

The rubber border is almost invisible, but it helps to give certain areas of the garden clear outlines, creates a kind of order, and properly organizes the space

How to use plastic bottles?

If you have to fence a lot of beds with plastic, the costs will inevitably increase. This is where people's ingenuity comes to the rescue. You can make a fencing for garden beds with your own hands, for example. That's when the plastic bottles we've accumulated come in handy!

Application plastic bottles for fencing garden beds is a real triumph of universal justice. It’s not in vain that you have accumulated them at home: it seems that you don’t need them, but it’s a pity to throw them away

You need to select bottles of the same volume; you can fill them with sand and place them upside down in the same trench that we prepared for the curb. If you cover the plastic with water-based paint, you will get a very bright border. However, it also looks good without paint.

The best options for metal fencing

Metal fences, often used for garden beds, look easy to install and, at first glance, very reliable. If we take the remains for this purpose plain metal, up to 1 mm thick, then the border will really turn out quickly, but it will not be so easy to make: thin plates are unstable and can be cut. And this side will not last long, because metal in the soil quickly rusts, and such a thin one will turn into dust very quickly. In the summer heat, metal overheated in the sun will actively transfer heat to the soil, which has a detrimental effect on plants.

The polymer coating gives galvanized steel completely new properties. It looks even more attractive and does not get too hot in the sun

Much more aesthetically pleasing and promising is galvanized steel, which has polymer coating. Boxes made from this material have a neat and attractive appearance. This material has proven itself well in different climatic conditions. Lightweight plates allow you to easily change the shape and size of the structure. The only, but expected, drawback for such material is its price. The expensive material is still in short supply, as demand for it outstrips supply.

More fencing ideas are presented in the video.

This neat and compact design when disassembled is made of galvanized metal. The finished box is easy to assemble and disassemble. If it is necessary to increase the size, the sides can be increased. The height of a single-tier border is 17cm. Stiffening ribs on the fencing elements give it additional strength. Manufacturers claim that such curbs will last at least 20 years.

Not everyone likes coming to the dacha to do physical labor. But such beds, even in an office worker tired of paperwork, can cause a surge of work enthusiasm

If it seems to you that the beds can be used without fencing, then you are, of course, right. But those who use borders have already seen how much easier and more effective plant care has become. And the end result of your efforts – the harvest – will help you finally believe in their necessity.