Use your own waste oil burner. Detailed photo and video instructions for making a burner using a blowtorch

Babington burner

Manufacturing difficulty: ★★★★★

Production time: A couple of days

Available materials: ██████░░░░ 60%

I work in a car repair shop and am faced with the problem of waste disposal. I recently found it on the Internet interesting scheme, and decided to do burner in production with your own hands, and it can work with unrefined oil mixed with water or even with shavings!
The basic idea is this: oil flows over a spherical surface and spreads over it in a thin film. If air or flammable gas is supplied through small hole in the surface (right under the oil layer), the jet will finely spray the oil. If you set it on fire, we get an excellent oil torch.

Bucket
Sheet iron
Automotive oil pump
Engine for oil pump with speed controller
Bolt M10
Copper tube
Heat and light sensors
Solenoid air valve

Drill
Grinder or hacksaw
Welding machine
Keys, pliers
Soldering iron

How to make a working burner

Operation scheme

How it works

Can be used homemade compressors from refrigerators, or compressors from aquariums.

I decided to make the burner in the form of an attachment to a bucket of oil. An automobile oil pump is attached to a sheet of iron along with a motor and gearbox and a speed controller to regulate the oil supply.

Making a burner nozzle during testing

It was not possible to find a metal sphere, so I welded a strip of stainless steel to an M10 bolt and sanded it into a spherical shape.

In the center of the bolt I made a hole with a diameter of 5 mm, and pressed an aluminum plug into this hole, and made a hole in it with a diameter of 0.3 mm,

I inserted the nozzle into a 1.5" cast iron tee and made a base for the tee with a water seal for safety.
Schematic diagram of the future Babington burner

We roll the copper tube into a spiral with a diameter slightly larger than the outlet diameter of the tee
To avoid damaging the structure of the tube, pour sand into it before bending.

We attach the tube to the tee.
Babington burner assembly. The oil is supplied through a copper pipe. The tube is bent into a spiral to ensure heating of the oil.
Heated oil becomes more liquid and atomizes better

Nozzle

Front view, you can see the nozzle in the center

Here is the burner in operation. You can see how finely the oil is sprayed

Automation of the burner during production

Action plan

To start homemade burner I'll try to use a purchased propane torch during testing. If you use propane instead of air at the nozzle, you can do without an ignition burner.
The automation will work something like this: the controller opens the gas tap and supplies a spark. When a flame sensor (thermocouple, for example) detects the presence of a flame, the ignition is turned off and after a while the oil and air supply is turned on, after which the presence of a flame on the burner is monitored by an optical sensor. As soon as the flame begins to flicker steadily, the gas to the igniting burner is turned off. A temperature sensor will also be installed, and after overheating above a critical temperature, the Babington burner will turn off, cool, and turn on again.
The nozzle had to be replaced with a smaller one, it burns a little weaker (otherwise it was impossible to approach). It is possible to implement stepwise power adjustment; for this we make two nozzles with different diameters, one more than the other. We connect them to two different air valves, and we get three degrees of power, one nozzle, the second, or both at once.

I made an igniting burner by looking at the device on a Chinese burner

The Babington burner operates on propane at a pressure of 0.2-1 kg/cm. A tube with a car spark plug for attaching the ignition burner and a tube for the flame presence sensor are welded to the burner.

Subtotals

It starts wonderfully, with one spark, burns very steadily, the flame does not blow away. The propane pressure is set low to allow the Babington burner to operate in the cold, when the pressure in the cylinder drops to 0.5-1 kg/cm3.

Automation requires sensors. The first thing I did was remove the thermocouple from the discarded boiler.

I also found an infrared phototransistor for the sensor

Often, during seasonal oil changes in cars, problems arise with waste disposal. At the same time, many owners of personal plots would like to have a cheap source of heating for their home needs. A self-made waste oil burner helps solve both problems. A small investment in a simple project pays off in many years of fuel savings.

To save money, you can make a burner yourself

Operating principle and types of structures

Since any oil contains flammable substances, they can be burned. People have long been trying to make the most of this for their own benefit, but solving this problem is not so easy, especially if they try to burn used oil, which contains many additional components. There are three types of devices for this purpose:

Ejection. Very efficient system. Excellent fuel combustion, high temperature, there are few harmful emissions, but it is almost impossible to do at home. In addition, not all fuels can be used without pre-treatment.
Evaporative. The easiest to assemble from scrap material, but its effectiveness is low, there is a lot of waste and pollution. Additional equipment is required for ignition and smooth operation.
Injection. Most acceptable option for production oil burner with your own hands. Relatively simple design, easy to maintain, unpretentious to fuel. The main disadvantage is the inability to use it in residential premises.

In this video you will learn how the burner works during mining:

Some craftsmen try to adapt blowtorches for heating by working off, but most often such endeavors result in complex alterations and a complete abandonment of the original burner design. Most popular in recent years received oil burner Babington.

Robert Babington patented his invention at the end of the last century using one of Murphy's laws - to do everything the other way around. Robert did not spray the fuel, blowing it out of the nozzle, I just tried to force air through the oil film. It produces an oily aerosol that burns beautifully. It’s not for nothing that they say that everything ingenious is simple.

A novice master can make such a burner if he has a garage or workshop with a bench vice and an electric drill. Having collected necessary materials and having prepared the tools, they make drawings of a waste oil burner or find ready-made ones on the Internet.

DIY making

Having collected everything you need in the garage, we begin step by step assembly liquid fuel burners. Even an amateur can do it with his own hands . For the work you will need the following materials:

Steel tee DN50 for two-inch pipes.
Spherical nozzle head. Use brass door handles, ball nuts or similar parts.
The nozzle is a steel tube with threaded ends. Length - 150−200 mm.
Copper tube with a diameter of 10 mm for supplying fuel to the injector from the fuel tank.
A metal tube with a diameter of at least 10 mm for the air duct.
Threaded plugs for connections.
Car or motorcycle fuel pump.

Don't forget about the materials we will need

Having collected everything necessary details, start assembling . To do this, follow the step-by-step instructions:

A small hole of no more than 0.3 mm is made in the hemisphere of the future nozzle.
Attach the air duct tube to the hemisphere.
Insert the hemisphere inside the tee and screw in the sealed threaded plug.
Make a hole in the nozzle to ignite the burner.
Screw the nozzle drive to the body.
A copper fuel pipe is screwed on top.
The other end is inserted into the fuel tank.
The tank is equipped with a heating element for heating the fuel to 70°C.
The fuel supply tube is wrapped around the nozzle to heat the fuel while the burner is operating.
A compressor is connected to pump air into the nozzle during testing.

This is how you make an excellent burner with your own hands according to the drawings. For more reliable and safe work The device is provided with measuring sensors and additional parts that will increase the efficiency of the device.

When using a homemade burner, there are usually increased requirements for compliance with the rules fire safety. Important to remember:

Do not leave a working nozzle unattended.
It is prohibited to install the equipment in a residential area.
To heat the heating main boiler, a special room is usually made without flammable coating on the walls, ceiling and floor.
To increase operating efficiency, heavily contaminated waste is enriched with clean oil.
They are constructing in the boiler room reliable ventilation for removal of gases and smoke after fuel combustion.
Carry out regular maintenance and equipment reliability checks.

At correct use a homemade burner will last for many years. The savings from using this type of heating are obvious, because the used oil has already been paid for, and if not for the homemade firebox, it would have to be disposed of.

By making such a simple device, the owner kills two birds with one stone: he saves on fuel and on the disposal of harmful liquid.

Many craftsmen in their practice are faced with the need for new devices, such as a waste oil burner. For owners of auto repair shops and garages, this will replace the furnace for heating the premises, especially if there are decent reserves of used oil and other fuel. Burners, if you understand the principle of their operation, can also be adapted for mixed fuel.

In the cold season, not only residential buildings need heating, but also auxiliary premises. IN at the moment devices are used for heating different types fuel, including waste or used technical oil. On Russian market You can find devices that process different fuel bases, as well as having a narrow specialization. Based on the type of fuel burned, such devices are:

gas;
liquid fuel;
combined.

The simplest and most economical device for heating a room is considered to be an exhaust burner. According to functionality, burners are divided into 3 subtypes:

welding;
lighting;
heating.

The operating principle of these devices was borrowed from primitive kerosene gas back in the 50s. Quite quickly, the simplest burners became popular, they began to be purchased for heating country houses and garages. In those days, any fuel was inexpensive, but over time, zealous owners, inventors and innovators began to look for a replacement for gasoline, diesel fuel and kerosene. Fuel oil and waste oil were used, which are now used as full-fledged fuel. Today the device is still relevant, and is also in a great way environmental conservation.

Important! In a room where any liquid fuel device will be used, be it a homemade gasoline burner, a working unit, or a DIY diesel fuel burner, there must be a fire extinguisher!

The design of a finished burner operating on waste oil

Upon purchase gas burners and similar equipment, people are often interested in this or that element and its purpose in general design. For example, they want to know where the oil should flow from and where, how it ignites, and so on. When they think about how to make a burner at home, looking for a model to build a homemade analogue, even more questions arise. Most often people are interested in replacing injectors and oil containers with something suitable from available means.

Having at their disposal photos, diagrams and drawings of a waste oil burner, not every master will immediately get down to business. The main reason is large number specific details.

Pay attention! It doesn’t matter what the device is made of, the principle of operation of all burners is approximately the same: filtered and heated oil is supplied from the main container and burned in the combustion chamber.

The multicomponent process consists of several stages, and the success of its operation will depend on the quality of the components of the drip burner using waste oil with your own hands:

extraction and filtration of waste;
pumping and heating of purified oil;
combustion process to produce heat.

Filtration as the start of burner operation during production

Enterprises that produce finished devices operating on liquid fuel or waste are equipped with additional options, purifying oil. These are the so-called intake floats, which take the purest portion of the substance from the surface for heating. This principle of waste collection is currently inherent in the vast majority of manufactured products belonging to this category.

Next, through a hose made of material resistant to aggressive environment, a portioned supply of used oil occurs. The tube is usually immersed approximately to the middle of the main container, so the solid suspension remains at the bottom, and a cleaner layer is used for heating and processing. At this stage, it is possible to filter the fuel quite efficiently without additional effort. Dirty impurities, sand and other insoluble components remain at the bottom.

Important! The duration of operation of a do-it-yourself waste oil burner nozzle largely depends on the purity of the fuel. Therefore, it is worth taking care of at least a rough cleaning of the oil fraction supplied to the firebox.

As you know, filters can be single-use or reusable. Sifting of coarse particles can be done through several layers or filter elements, like Smart Burner's ready-made heating pads. The traditional equipment of different products is approximately the same: ready-made devices are rarely produced without a filter or elements replacing it.

A small transfer pump is a standard design part responsible for the uninterrupted supply of oil. If you organize the supply for a stationary unit according to the principle of communicating vessels, then in a homemade burner it can flow to the nozzle by gravity.

Warming up used oil before burning it

No less important stage preparing the device for operation - heating the used oil before complete combustion to release heat. When heated, the oil becomes more liquid and plastic, resulting in an optimal consistency that burns well.

A preheating tank or heating coil is needed for any do-it-yourself waste oil burner - the drawings show an intermediate location. Usually this is a separate chamber or capsule of small volume, hidden in the middle of the body. The purpose is to warm up the fuel as efficiently as possible before the combustion process. U finished products most often there is a temperature relay that monitors the heating level. As a rule, they operate in an operating range of 0-150 °C.

Attention! Burners adapted for combined suspensions usually have a container for heating. Diesel fuel in homemade diesel burners does not require heating.

Manufacturers decide differently how to organize this stage. The Gnome waste oil burner (and other similar models) has a small electric heating element inside the container, which is responsible for heating the waste oil to the required level. Just as in this case, each manufacturer decides in its own way the issue of oil supply. Often float switches and pumps are responsible for the level of its supply. The system switches off automatically when the preheating tank is full.

Compressed air supply for waste oil recycling

Compressed air is required to prepare the oil mixture for combustion by atomizing it. This transport is directed to the nozzle, which is carried out under pressure. Due to the supply of oxygen through a separate channel, it ensures the combustion process in any device, including a DIY Babington burner using waste oil. Although the device was initially patented as working on diesel fuel, it was also adapted for technical oil.

Successful air supply requires a mini-compressor built into ready-made liquid fuel devices. It can be transported in other ways, for example, using the pneumatic principle. In the absence compressed air the injector may not work correctly.

Useful advice! A small pressure gauge helps monitor the operating pressure, thereby maintaining the parameters necessary for the full operation of the entire device.

Air flow regulation is provided by a special solenoid valve on the body. Expensive equipment also includes air filters to purify the air. They will be useful in dusty mini-workshops, boiler rooms or other rooms where the air taken for the combustion process has many impurities. To operate a burner nozzle using waste oil yourself, you need an adjustable secondary air supply. The following burner parts are responsible for the synchronous operation of all components:

nozzle (nozzle);
fuel compartment;
heating tank;
air supply valve;
oil supply regulator;
a pressure gauge for checking pressure (there may not be one);
blower (fan).

In finished devices, ignition is provided by electrodes. Compressed air is supplied through the air channel, from where it enters the nozzle. After heating, the used oil also goes there. If the nozzle is clean, it produces high-quality ignition of the fuel, which implies the appearance of an even, continuous flame.

What is Babington's famous invention?

Every invention has its own author, even if his name is undeservedly forgotten by his descendants. For example, in 1969, British inventor Robert Babington received a patent for a stove running on diesel fuel, which was reminiscent of lighting kerosene gas operating on kerosene vapor. Robert Babington's design was originally designed for kerosene, then it was adapted for diesel fuel. When the number of cars increased disproportionately, the used oil had to be disposed of somehow. Therefore, innovators were looking for devices suitable for these purposes.

First, based on the patented invention of R. Babington, a do-it-yourself diesel burner appeared, then it was adapted for burning oil and other types of fuel. The testing device appeared much later than the diesel design, but it surpassed its predecessor in popularity and safety.

After some time, a similar device was proposed again, since the first patent had expired, and the liquid fuel stove had not lost its relevance. Similar devices were repeated in different options, while not only self-taught craftsmen, but also design bureaus of reputable enterprises tried to assemble the Babington burner with their own hands.

Burner by constructive solution It is a simple device, so it can be successfully made at home. It is characterized by fairly high efficiency in terms of obtaining the heat necessary for heating:

technological installations;
small workshops;
workshops;
garages;
warehouse and utility rooms.

Useful advice! You should not adapt a homemade burner with your own hands for heating your home, since burnt oil has a specific smell.

Do-it-yourself burner: operating principle

If you look at the photos, pictures and drawings, it becomes obvious that the secondary oil is curved surface forms a thin film. Through a groove, gas or air is supplied into the container under low pressure. After heating, the oil is atomized by this air flow, ensuring high-quality ignition.

It was this method of ignition that became the basis for inventions that became widespread in homemade devices and drip burners using waste oil, produced in factories. Used oil is essentially free fuel, a used suspension. Therefore, it is considered more advantageous compared to other heat sources:

solid fuel and briquettes for homemade;
gasoline and diesel fuel;
electricity;
natural gas;
kerosene;
fuel oil.

Useful advice! Although waste remains the cheapest basis for releasing heat during disposal through combustion, it is still recommended to prepare oil clogged with impurities - to allow the water to settle and filter it from heavy suspended matter.

The first devices using kerosene, diesel fuel and oil smoked heavily, emitted bad smell. Later they offered a do-it-yourself gasoline burner and devices using other combustible raw materials, but an active search was underway for budget fuel. Oil turned out to be a suitable source of heat, but the soot and smell negated all the benefits. Therefore, all the efforts of the inventors went to eliminate the mentioned shortcomings burners for waste oil boilers. This should have been facilitated by complete combustion, heating and filtration of contaminated fuel.

Related article:

Operating principle and features. Types of device. How to make it yourself. Manufacturers and popular models.

How to build your own apparatus based on the Babington burner principle: drawings

The principle of operation of a homemade burner, made based on the idea of Robert Babington, is clear from the drawings, where the components of the unit are visible:

waste oil tank;
waste tray;
fuel supply pipe;
a small fuel pump for supplying portions of oil;
hemisphere for spraying with a small hole;
heating chamber with heating element(may be missing).

Pay attention! The testing nozzle is not a mandatory element for organizing the smooth combustion process. It can be successfully replaced by a nozzle - a small hole for supplying an air stream and fuel. To ensure that it does not become clogged, its serviceability must be monitored.

The used oil evaporates and flows down the hemisphere. These oily vapors are mixed with the air mass, resulting in a fuel mixture. The remaining oil that has not had time to be utilized flows into the pan, and from there through the tube back into the fuel tank.

This unit, based on Babington's patent, designed to burn liquid fuel, is quite simple. Therefore, it can be reproduced from scrap parts in a home workshop. Success depends on the exact compliance of the parts with their intended purpose and on the coordinated operation of all components. Therefore, before making a burner with your own hands, you should carefully calculate all the parameters.

Useful advice! If we take one option as a basis, for example, the Gnome burner, using ready-made drawings and recommendations from craftsmen, it is difficult to make a mistake in the size and functionality of parts.

Advantages and disadvantages of a do-it-yourself burner

Each technical device has a number useful qualities and shortcomings. Obviously, this device has more pros than cons. The main advantage is the utilization of waste raw materials for the greatest benefit. Other advantages of oil and liquid fuel recycling equipment:

burning waste helps preserve the environment;
ease of operation and high energy efficiency;
manufacturing of the device is possible under normal household conditions;
obtaining heat at a minimum cost of raw materials;
simple design manufacturing scheme, clear drawings;
a homemade device can be made from available materials;
use in workshops and enterprises where a lot of processed raw materials accumulate that require disposal;
the small dimensions of the burner allow it to be moved if necessary;
waste and the lowest-grade oil go into the furnace;
device functionality;
relative fire safety;
reuse of used oil.

Flaws:

It is not recommended for use in cottages and residential premises due to burning and odor;
the need to equip the premises with a fire extinguisher;
It is imperative to follow all recommendations for the manufacture of the burner;
the nozzle or injector should be checked periodically (if the holes are clogged with solid particles);
sensitivity of the nozzle or nozzle to contamination;
additional power supply to the components of the device (pump, compressor).

How to make a burner with your own hands according to diagrams and drawings

The burners, based on the invention of Robert Babington, have undergone repeated refinement and modernization. Hence the discrepancies in different drawings, diagrams and illustrations. The chosen option needs careful study to eliminate design errors.

Useful advice! You should not make an average version of the burner for recycling waste oil. It is better to use one proven device based on the proposal of an experienced innovator.

Hints and recommendations from other craftsmen may also be useful for making certain elements and units. The proposed explanations, which were taken from one of the specialized forums, concern the following details:

metal hemisphere (can be made from anything, including a piece of brass door handle or spherical nut);
a steel threaded tee for connecting two-inch pipes (instead you can take a cross with the same parameters);
a 10 mm copper tube is suitable for fuel supply;
the nozzle needs a squeegee metal pipe having external thread(up to 200 mm);
for air supply, a metal tube with a diameter of 10 mm, connected to the nozzle, is useful;
It is better to connect the channels to the body using threaded fittings of a suitable size;
The main supply of waste will be carried out by a small pump with a simple motor (from a motorcycle or car).

Useful advice! It is recommended to use a compressor from a refrigerator. A small pressure (2-4 bar) will be quite enough for efficient work nozzles Ignition is easily ensured by spark plugs from the car, standing at the nozzle.

The nozzle is a small hole; its size regulates the power of the homemade product according to R. Babington’s principle. Sometimes several small holes are made in the hemisphere, since one may become clogged or it will not be enough. There is information that 1 hole measuring 0.25 mm will provide a burner power of 10-15 kW, which depends on the quality of the combusted raw materials.

In a hemisphere with a finished hole, an air supply channel is attached through an inlet through a tee. The tightness is ensured by a threaded plug in which a groove for the tube is drilled. The tee should be soldered to the fitting where the oil supply tube is connected, which requires heating before disposal. To do this, you need to solder a heating element into the tank, preferably with a thermal relay. A tube with several turns will prepare waste oil for feeding into the nozzle.

In order for air to flow in, you additionally need to drill 2 grooves about 8 mm in size in the nozzle. First, a nozzle is attached to the tee, then a copper spiral tube is attached, after which it is attached to the fitting. Some of the oil will drain into the settling tank, which, for safety, is best directed to the side through a tube. Masters who know the secrets of electronics usually provide the device with a controller and a board for organizing ignition.

The burner is a universal design that can be adapted for other types of liquid fuel. Although such devices are on sale today, their high cost encourages home craftsmen to do something similar with their own hands. In terms of efficiency, home appliances for burning waste are not inferior to branded new products designed for heating mini-workshops, greenhouses, and small farms.

This type of burner was developed in the 1960s and gained its popularity as a stove among owners of summer houses and utility rooms that needed to be heated.

Since the burner runs on liquid waste oil, its use is quite cheap when compared with gas heating of a boiler, electricity or solid fuel. This is a more economical option than a gas burner.

Used oil is a kind of cheaper alternative to all types of fuel. In addition to the fact that with the help of a waste oil burner it was possible to heat rooms, it can help with the disposal of used oil and is no longer required oil. Suitable for both diesel and oil running.

Operating principle

This device works in the same way as a whale breathes. The oil flows along a curve and, due to surface tension, creates a thin film.

When a stream of pressurized air from small holes pierces the fuel film, flammable mixture is atomized productively, and a certain amount of air picks up the atomized fuel, which completes the entire combustion process. Therefore, efficient combustion does not require any additional air flow.

The main advantage of Babington burners is the absence of any nozzles, which often become clogged, because the fuel immediately comes from above the small air holes.

Please note: Since the pump can operate on fuel with various impurities, metal shavings, dirt, a fuel sump will need to be mounted to the burner as a filter, and placed just below the nozzle.

What is required for production

Assembling the burner is not at all difficult, but there are certain components that must all function correctly in order to ensure trouble-free operation.

The burner consists of the following parts:

Babington nozzles, which can be used as a door handle. Usually located in the burner.
A 20 lb (9 liter) propane tank that will act as a source of compressed air.
The liquid fuel pump is usually a gear oil pump. Connects via copper pipe.
A cut-off 100 lb (45.36 liter) propane tank can be used as a burner guide. Mounted at the required height. You can also get by with a blowtorch.
A settling tank to collect impurities that have not been burned. A cut off unnecessary cylinder will do.
A splash catcher, because without it there will be splashes everywhere. For this, a piece of beam is used.

This is important: Before making the burner, it is recommended to prepare a fire extinguisher, because this type of fuel can be dangerous.

General view of the finished structure

A cinder block block located at the outlet will help maintain the flame.

When the burner is set correctly, there should be no smoke. The only thing coming out is hot, wavy air.

There is an oil pump under the burner. Its task is to suck oil from the tank, where the oil settles, which passes around the propane cylinder twice (at the same time heating up), comes out onto the door handle and, as a result, is sprayed.

Please note: in this installation there is no regulation of the propane supply, since it is quite inconvenient to control it with the cylinder handle alone, however, automation can be installed on everything.

Also, to make the design easier to understand, there is no fuel tank; the suspension is immediately poured into the sump. There are various drawings of these burners, but now we are considering the simplest option.

Advantages of this type burners:

It is quite easy to make without any help.
cheap way to generate heat.
An effective and functional device, it is lightweight, which makes the design mobile.

Let's start making our own

We list the main tools that will be needed in the work:

welding machine;
Bulgarian;
lathe.

In appearance, the burner looks like a small empty gas cylinder, with oppositely directed steel pipe sections welded on the top and bottom sides. The inside of the burner measures only 1 inch (2.54 cm) and its walls are quite large.

A piece of pipe at the bottom is required to supply oil and air to the part where combustion occurs. The short pipe at the top is used as the burner mouth from which the flame will erupt.

Expert advice: to set the air flow entering the oven, a conventional household vacuum cleaner high power.

Manufacturing of the installation

From the outside, the device looks more like an empty gas cylinder. First you need to find an empty gas cylinder of the required volume.

Holes for pipes are drilled along the inside of the marked circle. To drill, you will need a spiral drill. Using a chisel and grinder, you need to remove the jumpers between the drilled holes. To give correct form, use a round file or cutter.

Pipes are inserted into the made openings and welded. The pipes are measured in advance and sawed off with a grinder. A hole is made at the bottom of the pipe where the M16 nut will be welded. This is required to secure the oil nozzle.

How is oil supplied to the burner?

A homemade oil nozzle is made using lathe. The base requires a rod with a smooth shank.

It is required to secure the hose to the oil supply. When a flexible oil supply is provided, we cut a thread in this place.

More than half the length of the rod will be occupied by a metric thread. The pipe has a diameter of 16 mm. A hole is drilled along the entire length of the nozzle, which will come into contact with the transverse part, which is installed below and has a diameter of 3 mm. This part is ordered from professionals, or if you have the skill to work with a lathe, it is done with your own hands.

The principle of operation of the nozzle is that the viscous waste flows out of the hole that was made in the transverse part and is captured by the air charge. The fuel disperses into small drops, making their ignition much easier.

How is air regulation carried out?

The strength of the fire will depend on the calculation of the strength of the air flow.

The basis of the system is to regulate a steel cup or ball that has holes required diameter and a bottom in the form of a semicircle.

This is also done using a lathe. To create a regular hemisphere, cutters are used. It is attached to the L-shaped axis with an M4 screw.

Please note: to securely connect the hose outlet and ensure correct work air valve, use an adapter that has a slot along its entire length.

When ignition occurs, access to the processing chamber is provided by a heavy lid. It is installed on welded canopies to the neck of the body. When the weight is not heavy, an involuntary discovery may occur. If all parts of the assembly are done correctly, then during operation a violet flame appears as an even background, appearing from the combustion of the air-oil mixture inside the device.

Specialist's note: According to safety rules, you should protect the junction of the nozzle with the hose; this can be done using a steel screen. This will protect the fuel during testing from ignition if the connection is not hermetically sealed.

This burner is quite easy to manufacture, but you should carefully follow the safety rules during operation and further use. It is important to know that you should be especially careful when choosing a cylinder to create the body of the device. The cylinder must be empty, otherwise, when holes are made, it can cause severe injury.

Watch the video in which a specialist explains in detail how to make a Babington burner with your own hands:

For those who run their own auto repair shop or simply have large stocks of used oil, an irreplaceable thing will create a burner. The burner described below can run on waste oil, and the oil can be mixed with water or even sawdust. This will allow you to easily heat a garage or other room with waste oil.

The operating principle of the device is very simple. The oil flows over the spherical surface, forming a thin film on it. This surface has a hole through which flammable gas or ordinary air is supplied under pressure. In this case, the air flow will atomize the oil, and it will ignite in the oven. To spray oil more efficiently during the cold season, it is provided simple system heating

Materials and tools for homemade:
- sheet iron;
- bucket;
- automobile oil pump;
- electric motor for the oil pump (with speed controller);
- bolt M10;
- light and heat sensors;
- copper tube;
- air solenoid valve.

Tools: drill, soldering iron, hacksaw, grinder, keys, pliers, welding machine.

Let's start assembling the burner:

Step one. Schematic diagram devices
This device is also called a Babington burner. Below you can see original diagram.

During operation, oil flows through the outer part of the nozzle, and therefore its cleanliness does not affect the operation of the device. The homemade product consumes very little air, only a few liters per hour. To create air flow, compressors from refrigerators or aquariums are suitable.

The system has an oil pump, it is designed to ensure that the oil flowing down the sphere is supplied back up to the container.

Step two. Burner type
The burner was made in the form of an attachment that fits onto a bucket of oil. Oil pump, as well as the engine and speed controller were screwed to a sheet of metal. As a result, the design came out as in the photo.

Step three. Making an injector
Since the author could not find a spherical structural element, this part was made from a piece of stainless steel, which was welded to an M10 bolt. Next, the plate was given a spherical shape using sandpaper.

A hole with a diameter of 5 mm was drilled in the center of the bolt. An aluminum plug was then pressed into this hole. And already in this plug a hole with a diameter of 0.3 mm was drilled, but it is recommended to use a hole with a diameter of 0.25 mm.

The nozzle was then inserted into a 1.5" cast iron tee. A base with a water seal was made for the tee as a safety feature.

Here is another diagram of how the burner should work

Step four. Assembling the mechanical part of the device
The copper tube must be rolled into a spiral; its diameter should be slightly larger than the outlet diameter of the tee. To successfully bend the tube into a spiral, it must be filled with sand.

The tube is then attached to the tee. That's all, the burner is assembled. The spiral is needed to heat the incoming oil. This is done so that the heated oil becomes more liquid, and this allows it to be better atomized.

In the photo you can see what the nozzle looks like from the front. As you can see, during operation the oil is sprayed quite thinly.

Step five. Burner electronics
Using some sensors and others electrical devices, you can achieve autonomous operation of the burner.
To make it easy to start the burner, a propane torch was purchased.

The system will work as follows. When starting, the controller will generate a spark and simultaneously open the gas valve. Once the gas ignites, the thermocouple detects the presence of fire and then the electronics begin supplying oil and air. Next, using an optical sensor, the flickering of the burner flame is monitored. As soon as the flame begins to flicker steadily, the electronics will shut off the gas supply.

The system will also have a temperature sensor. When the burner reaches the maximum permissible temperature, it will turn off, cool down, and then turn on again.

If desired, the homemade product can be equipped with two nozzles; as a result, the burner will be able to operate in three modes. For example, you can turn on a small nozzle, a large one, or two at the same time. To do this, two air valves will be needed.

The author decided to make the starting burner himself, focusing on the principle of the Chinese burner.

As a result, the Babington Burner is capable of operating at a propane pressure of 0.2-1 kg/cm. A tube with a spark plug from the car was welded to the burner so that the burner could be attached to it for starting. A tube was also installed to attach the flame sensor.

According to the author, the burner starts easily, one spark is enough. At the same time, it burns quite evenly and the flame cannot be blown off. To ensure that the Babington burner could operate in cold winters, the propane pressure was set to low. In winter it can be about 0.5-1 kg/cm.