WITH wooden table top at minimal financial costs.

The house has been rebuilt and renovations are nearing completion. The kitchen was also ready at that time. The question became about the kitchen table. Looked in stores wooden tables. Normal tables with a wooden tabletop (not chipboard) cost from 3,000 rubles. After looking at the whole thing, I decided to make a table with my own hands.

To make the table I bought:

1. type-setting wooden furniture panel 60cm wide and 3m long (there was no smaller one),
2. wooden beam 4 x 4 cm,
3. 4 table legs. (they are sold in stores furniture fittings),
4. screw nuts for fastening the legs.

It took 1,500 rubles for everything.

The dimensions of our future table are 60 cm by 160 cm (half furniture board), based on the size of the kitchen), so the cost of the table was set at just over 1000 rubles.

Having cut the tabletop to the size of the table, I began sawing the ends of the beam at 45 degrees.

The timber is necessary to give rigidity to the tabletop. We run it around the perimeter of the table from the bottom side. Without a block, the tabletop will sag.

We apply the blanks of the bars to the tabletop and check that everything fits together without gaps.

We attach the beam to the tabletop with screws.

On back side table tops, mark the places where the legs and holes are attached.

We drill holes in the tabletop for screws. Drill diameter - 10 mm. The diameter of the screw nut is 12 mm.
To make screwing the nut easier, you can set the tap stroke to 12mm. The tap pitch is equal to the thread pitch on the socket nut.

We do all this with four legs.

The table is ready and standing on legs. Let's start sanding and varnishing it.

Cleaned the table sandpaper, first 80, then smaller - 150. I made the edges of the table and bars slightly rounded. In some places I worked on some irregularities.

After careful sanding, I began to varnish the table.

Our varnish was matte (we used it earlier to cover the floor). After applying the first layer, let the varnish dry. After drying, the pile rises. We go over it again with fine sandpaper and cover it with a second layer of varnish.

If necessary, after the second layer we also sand it with sandpaper and varnish the table, as I did.

The table is ready!

Instead of metal legs, you can also use square beam or ready-made balusters, which are sold ready-made.

Probably when I make another table, I will use balusters. They happen different sizes. It is advisable to use balusters with a diameter of more than 70 mm. They are also secured with screws.

Perhaps the main attribute of a room for eating - a dining room or kitchen - is the kitchen dining table. Choosing any furniture for small kitchen typical city apartment, you have to compromise between free space in the room and spaciousness, comfort of furniture, this fully applies to the choice of table. It is not easy to find a small kitchen table with the desired shape of the tabletop in stores; custom-made ones promise considerable additional costs. There is a decent way out of the situation - making a table with your own hands.

For a room of 6-8 sq.m., probably the most good size countertops will range from 800x500 mm to 1200x600 mm, with standard height 750 mm from the floor. The elongated shape of the tabletop - oval or rectangular - allows you to place the table along the wall, saving free space.

Selection and purchase of materials and accessories.

Will the right decision When making a kitchen table, use a factory-made material intended for the same purposes, namely a post-forming countertop made of chipboard. These countertops are covered with wear-resistant decorated plastic, used in the furniture industry in the manufacture of kitchen sets, supplied in the form of sheets about 3 m long, 600 mm wide, 26 mm or 36 mm thick (in standard version). Postforming countertops have a low price. Their front overhang (end) has an aesthetic semicircular shape and is also covered with plastic. Standard fittings are available for them: end and connecting strips, edge for processing ends, couplers, etc.
Buy a whole cloth kitchen countertop just for the sake of one third of its length there is no need. The required piece can always be found (purchased for a proportional fee) in furniture workshops, where they accumulate in large quantities as remnants from the production of kitchen sets. There, in the furniture workshop, you can immediately ask to cut the part on a format cutting machine to obtain a rectangular workpiece with the required dimensions.

Postforming type tabletop.

However, chipboard countertops have one feature - they have only one or two plastic-covered overhangs along the length of the canvas. For the table, we need to have all the ends processed (on all sides). For this reason, it will not be possible to directly (without processing the ends) use ready-made kitchen countertops. Moreover, you will have to cut off the front factory overhang. The open ends of the chipboard must be treated taking into account protection from water ingress, not forgetting the aesthetic appeal of the treatment. There are two main ways: apply (glue) a special edge tape or use furniture edging on PVC based. We will take the second path, as it is the most practical from an operational point of view and forgiving some minor mistakes of the master. We will use furniture edging with sides (girths), this will not only make the tabletop more solid appearance, but will also give additional protection. A piece of edging of the required length can be purchased at a furniture fittings store. A T-shaped (with a central tenon) PVC edging with girths is required for chipboard with a thickness of 25 mm or 32 mm. When purchasing a 25-mm edge, you must first make sure that it can be put on a 26-mm end without any problems. The use of a 32nd edge is also quite acceptable and gives the tabletop a visually thicker edge.

T-edge with girths (sides) in section.

Another important point- legs (supports). Today there is a wide selection of both piece supports and ready-made bases for tables. The most common solution can be considered a round leg with a height of 710 mm and a diameter of 60 mm. Legs of this type are collapsible, height adjustable, have low price, easy to install, available in several versions outer covering(shiny, matte, painted in various colors). If necessary for transportation or compact storage table, it can be easily disassembled. The legs are also sold in specialized furniture stores. As a rule, the manufacturer packs them in packs of 4 pieces, unassembled. When purchasing a whole pack, the kit must include a hex key.

Set for making a table: a piece of kitchen worktop, four legs, edging.

The process of making a table.

What tools are needed for this have already been described in detail, we will not repeat ourselves, we will briefly list the main stages and dwell on some of the nuances.

Step 1. Apply markings. On the front (working) surface of the tabletop we apply markings with a pencil according to the design of the future table. All roundings must be made with a radius of at least 60 mm, in order to avoid changes in the color of the edging in places of sharp bends (depending on the edging manufacturer).

Applying markings for rounding corners on the front surface of a rectangular workpiece.

Step 2. Give shape. According to the markings, leaving a small reserve of 2-3 mm, we cut off the excess. The jigsaw file must have the opposite (reversible) direction of the teeth (see article about), in order to avoid chipping the plastic coating, even though the edge with its girths can partially hide small chips in the cut. Use a belt sander to ensure that the contours of the table top exactly match the markings.

Cutting corners with a jigsaw and final finishing with a belt sander.

Step 3. Mill the groove. Depending on whether the edging is used exactly along the width of the tabletop (25 mm) or larger (32 mm), the groove is milled exactly in the center of the end, or with an offset. The exact milling parameters are calculated after measuring the geometry of the edge used with a caliper. In the absence of a “native” cutter with which you can make the required groove width in one pass, you can perform multi-pass milling using a cutter with a smaller tooth height.

Measuring the edge with a caliper: the internal width and thickness of the tenon.

Milling a groove for a 32 mm edge in a tabletop 26 mm thick (the groove is offset downward relative to the center of the end).

Step 4. Stuff the edging. Before filling the edging, the end of the tabletop must be coated silicone sealant. It will not be superfluous to put the sealant in the groove, and also apply it to the upper edge (girth) of the edge, directly adjacent to the working surface of the tabletop. This will ensure maximum protection against water penetration. The edging is stuffed with a rubber mallet, starting from the place where the joining seam will be least noticeable. After completing the stuffing, accurately join the ends of the edging using sharp knife. Last operation there will be excess sealant squeezed out from the surfaces of the countertop, squeezed out during packing. The tabletop is ready.

Applying sealant to chipboard end. It is enough to apply only to the upper half, which is above the groove.

Edge padding. When securing the tabletop using struts (as in the photo), you need to take care of the spacers under the tabletop to prevent damage to the lower, protruding edge of the edge.

Step 5. Attach the legs. To attach the legs (more precisely, their cast holders), on the underside of the tabletop we apply pencil markings in the form of two perpendicular lines at the place where each holder is attached. As a rule, good option is to install the legs at a distance of about 100 mm from the edge of the tabletop (see photo). The holders can be secured with self-tapping screws 20-25 mm long with countersunk head. All that remains is to put the legs on the holders, securing them with a hex key, and the dining table for the kitchen is completely ready for use.

Markings for attaching leg holders.

The table is ready.

Table option with an oval tabletop.

The design of a kitchen table made from a postforming tabletop is simple, unpretentious, accessible to self-made, reliable. However, it must be remembered that if handled carelessly - a strong blow to the leg in the side direction - there is a possibility of breaking the holder, made of a relatively brittle alloy. With careful handling and proper care, the table will last for many years.

A steel bathtub is much lighter than a cast iron one, for this reason it will be much easier to transport and install it. The weight of such equipment is small, so it cannot be installed in the center of the bathroom without support from the walls. First you need to install a steel bathtub on legs. Reliable and stable legs for a steel bathtub are those that follow the contour of the bottom of the product itself; in addition, it is desirable that they be self-adhesive.

Some manufacturers include bolted supports for a steel bathtub in the installation kit. But this set of fasteners is not harmless to the surface of the product, because it can damage the enamel layer. In case of excessive load, the enamel may crack in the fastening area. In addition, the “standard” legs of bathtubs from some manufacturers, alas, do not differ in quality. Therefore, it is preferable to purchase universal legs for a steel bathtub with a self-adhesive base.

Generally speaking, installing metal plumbing fixtures is practically no different from installing cast iron fixtures (except, of course, that they are easier to move). But there are still some differences.

Features of installing a steel bathtub

Thanks to heavy weight and massiveness, cast iron baths can be installed in the middle of the bathroom, but installing a steel product in the same way is impossible: the bathtub must be adjacent to three walls.

Based on this, you need to first install the bathtub, and then lay the wall tiles. For the bath to pass freely between the walls, the distance from one wall to the other should be equal to the linear dimensions of the product, plus five to six millimeters.

We fasten the legs

How to secure the legs of a steel bathtub? So, we have already decided what is best on a self-adhesive basis. Such supports are shaped like the letter “P” with some deflection at the base. They contain screws for adjustment with plastic tips. The most reliable set of legs for a steel bathtub has smaller supports and longer adjustable bolts.

Since metal products are not very weighty and can tip over under the weight of water or the weight of a person, additional support can be made for them in the form of laying blocks or bricks. Naturally, this support is installed with outside equipment.

After all the basic work on installing the plumbing fixture has been carried out, the brick is covered with tiles, so its original appearance does not play a special role. If you intend to make such a support, then be sure to leave space below for free access to the siphon.

To install the legs on steel bath the following operations must be performed:

Preparation

It is necessary to prepare a place for installation of equipment. It is immediately necessary to organize conclusions for sewer drain and the future mixer. The next step is to treat the walls with moisture-proofing agents. If the angles between the walls are not straight, they need to be aligned. After which you can begin installing the plumbing fixture.

Installation of legs

• First you need to turn the bathtub upside down. To avoid scratching the enamel layer, it is better to use cardboard or a layer of foam rubber as a substrate. When purchasing a product in a cardboard package, you simply do not need to remove it.
• The legs for a metal bathtub must first be tried on at the places of future installation. One pair of legs should be installed at a distance of approximately two centimeters from the outlet hole towards the center of the product.
• The second pair of legs is placed close to the second edge of the equipment.

Tip: To ensure that the legs fit very well to the bottom, you can manually adjust the depth of the channel deflection. In any case, it is advisable to do this procedure not under the bathtub, but somewhere off to the side on a substrate.

• At the joints of the product, its surface must be degreased with undiluted alcohol or acetone. After this, you need to remove the protective layer from the pads, put the legs in the right places and press them firmly to the bottom of the equipment. It is advisable to degrease the installation sites with alcohol, but under no circumstances use a solvent.

Tip: To ensure that the protective layer comes off easily from the lining, it can be heated with a construction hair dryer or a regular household hair dryer.

• For adjustment, the threaded rods must be carefully and slowly driven all the way into the plastic tips, and care must be taken to ensure that the threads are not damaged. If you don't have rubber mallet, then it is better to tighten the supplied nuts on the studs before hammering them in. After this, the nuts need to be screwed in all the way to the tips, and the studs need to be screwed into their designated points on the support.
• To avoid incidents, you should immediately evaluate the parameters of the bathroom door, because it may be narrow. In this case, it will not be possible to bring the equipment with the legs attached into the room without damaging the supports. Then it is advisable to attach the legs in the bathroom itself.

Adjusting the bath by level

• After installing the product in in the right place, do not forget that the height of a steel bathtub with legs must be at the same level on all sides. To do this, you can use a level and if there is a discrepancy in height on one side of the equipment and the other, simply adjust it using the adjustment screws on the legs themselves.
• Next, in the corners between the sides of the bathtub and the walls, you need to drive four narrow wedges of wood. Edge gaps steel equipment and the wall should be filled with special foam from a gun. After it has completely hardened, it is necessary to pull out the wooden wedges.
• To ensure that water does not pour under the bathtub, on top polyurethane foam, level with the sides of the product, you can put a layer of silicone.

Conclusion

Upon completion of all stages, the space under the plumbing equipment can be bricked, or you can simply install a decorative sliding screen. After which installation metal product can be considered completed.

The tabletop fastening has many various nuances, without knowledge of which to proceed self-installation not recommended. It is also not recommended to install it yourself if the countertop is made of expensive materials, such as tempered glass, or the cost of installation is included in the price of the furniture. If the decision about self-installation accepted, then read on.

Modern countertops can be made of stone, wood, metal and laminated chipboards or MDV. More rarely, concrete countertops are used, which are manufactured directly at the installation site.

Finished countertops are installed in several stages:

• Preparation;
• cutting holes;
• installation.

Let's analyze all the stages in more detail.

Preparing the countertop

After manufacturing, the tabletop, as a rule, differs slightly from the specified dimensions. Therefore, before installation, it is necessary to completely adjust it to other kitchen furniture.

Carry out this process can be done according to the following scheme:

1. all kitchen countertops on which the countertop will be installed are assembled, mounted and, if necessary, secured;
2. the surface of the cabinets is leveled. If the furniture is equipped with adjustable legs, then you can place pieces of furniture on the same level using the adjustment method. If there are no adjustable legs, then for leveling it is necessary to place wedges under certain places;

1. define optimal sizes countertops. Depending on the type of wall covering, the tabletop can be installed close to the wall (smooth apron, wallpaper, textured putty) or with a gap of 5 mm ( tiles, uneven decorative finish);
2. mark the cutting lines. The surface of the tabletop in front of the cutting line for additional protection covered with masking tape;

If the table top will be cut with a hacksaw, then it is better to mark and work accordingly according to front side. When using electric jigsaw Marking and cutting is done on the wrong side. This rule will help avoid the formation of unevenness when performing work.

1. The tabletop is trimmed and holes are prepared for installation kitchen appliances;

1. the sections are processed with a file or other tools to remove irregularities.

The next stage of installation is preparing the holes for the sink and gas stove. The work is carried out in the following order:

1. The location of kitchen appliances is determined. To do this, the tabletop is temporarily installed in place;
2. the contours of the sink and stove are indicated on the surface of the countertop;

It will be easier to mark the contours if, when applying markings, you use not the equipment itself, but prepared cardboard (paper) templates.

1. for ease of cutting, it is recommended to remove the tabletop and install it on a stand;
2. the surface of the tabletop around the contour is protected with masking tape;
3. in several places (at least 4) holes are drilled around the perimeter of the contour, the diameter of which does not exceed 10 mm;

1. The hole is cut and the sections are processed.

Holes for the stove and additional kitchen appliances, if any, are cut in the same way.

Installation

Countertops can be produced in two ways:

• using self-tapping screws (the most common method);
• into grooves on furniture (used individually by prior order).

To attach the tabletop using the simplest and most common method, you will need:

• self-tapping screws;
• mounting angles;
• screwdriver;
• silicone sealant;
• end edges;
• plinth.

The tabletop is attached to the set according to the following scheme:

1. the tabletop is installed in place in compliance with all provided gaps;
2. is attached to kitchen cabinets using self-tapping screws (on the sides) and mounting angles (along the inner perimeter);

1. The edges of the tabletop are treated with sealant and covered with end caps. If metal corners are used for protection, then additional fixation is made with self-tapping screws;

1. the joint at the junction of the wall and the countertop is treated with sealant and covered with a plinth.

Sink mount

The final stage of installation - attaching the sink to the countertop - is carried out in the following way:

1. the cut hole around the entire perimeter is treated with silicone sealant. This is required to protect the countertop from moisture;
2. placed on the edges of the sink rubber seal(mainly) or a layer of sealant;

1. Using special clamps, the sink is attached to the countertop;

1. the mixer is installed and connected;
2. sewerage is connected.

Installation diagram for a countertop with special grooves, as well as installation diagrams for a sink and hob presented in the video.

If you are assembling a kitchen with your own hands, then at each stage you need to remember that all joints: between parts of the countertop, between the sink and the countertop, between the wall and the countertop, are sealed to protect the countertop from moisture.

If the table wobbles, it means the strapping has come loose.

Table: material, manufacturing technology, diagrams, designs - simple and complex

If nothing is damaged, it can be glued back together. But if you want to play it safe, strengthen the harness.

Gaps between the table legs and the frame of the frame, creaking, rocking of the table, etc. are sure signs that something is wrong with the design of the frame. Where the connections are loosened because the glue no longer holds, the table loses stability and requires immediate repair.

If the strapping comes unglued, you cannot do without disassembling the entire structure, because if you simply add glue to the gaping cracks and connect the frame again, it will not last long. Glue must be added where there are contact surfaces, i.e. in the grooves and on side surfaces thorns

And although the connection in the castle structure has already weakened, it is sometimes not so easy to separate the parts from each other. In order not to break off or damage anything, you need to take a hammer in your hands and knock out the tenons from the grooves with short but strong blows. In order for the glued areas to hold again, you should scrape off the old layer of glue and remove any remaining mastic or varnish, if any. When applying a new layer of glue, make sure that the legs are vertical and parallel and that the harness frame does not warp. To do this, place the table with its legs up on flat surface and tighten the clamp evenly and alternately on both sides. The glue must dry before we begin to strengthen the strapping. Now we will work with wood (screwed metal corners do not provide strength and durability). From a single piece of pine or other hardwood, we will make stiffeners with a thickness of at least half the height of the strapping. The corners are shaped isosceles triangles, the tops of which are cut into the upper end of the table leg so that contact planes are formed as closely as possible to each other. As a rule, the tops are cut at right angles. When all four corners are in place, the sides are smeared with glue and connected to the harness. Additionally, you can secure the structure with obliquely placed screws.

1. The old elegant table, weakened by age, completely fell apart. But someone who knows how to restore furniture can work a miracle.

2. Fasten the harness and install the legs, if possible, at a right angle.

3. When the areas to be glued are cleaned, the strapping is glued together, tightened with a clamp.

5. Glue the fasteners at the corners of the trim. Can also be secured with screws.

b. Now the frame is absolutely strong and you can mount a tabletop on it.

4. Cut out triangles from a single piece of wood and cut the apex into the edges of the table legs.

7. When the table is standing, additional reinforcing corners are not visible.

Tools:

Hammer, clamp, chisel, narrow hacksaw, screwdriver

In most modern kitchen sets, the lower modules are installed on adjustable legs - supports and covered with a single tabletop. By using adjustable legs you can compensate for unevenness and slope of the floor, thereby leveling the common tabletop covering the lower cabinets. Adjustable supports for kitchen units can withstand significant loads and can be made of plastic or metal, which also perform a decorative function.

Plastic kitchen supports do not have a very attractive appearance, but a special clip is included with the leg, with which it is attached to the support. kitchen plinth. The kitchen set, installed entirely on plastic legs, is closed at the bottom with a decorative plinth, which can be removed if necessary. If you want to leave the legs open, you should install decorative ones in visible areas. metal legs- supports.

For one lower module up to 800 mm wide, four kitchen supports are enough. For wider and corner cabinets furniture legs need more. Also, if there is a vertical partition in the lower module, it is also advisable to install supports under it.

Regardless of the material, installation of adjustable supports similar to each other. The kitchen leg is attached to the chipboard using four 16 mm self-tapping screws and one central bolt. Before installing the kitchen legs, set all the supports to the lowest position, that is, screw them completely.

kitchen with plinth and legs

Turn the bottom module over and start marking. Please note that if you plan to cover the bottom of the kitchen unit with a plinth, then step back 80 - 100 mm along the front edge to secure the legs. This is done for the purpose that when you stand at the desktop, your feet will not rest against the plinth. Where the legs will not be closed with a plinth, move 50 mm away from the edge enough.

To fix and install one kitchen leg, move 50 mm away from both sides, draw a cross and place a dot at the intersection. Attach kitchen leg to the bottom of the module so that the point is under one of the four holes. The other two holes should be above the lines of the drawn cross. Screw in three screws according to the markings, then screw in the fourth. Do the same with the remaining legs.

installing kitchen legs

Then when set to kitchen set all legs, proceed to level the lower cabinets to the tabletop using a level and adjustable supports. Cover the lower modules with a tabletop.

We make a beautiful and strong country table with our own hands

Achieve a horizontal position of the countertop by adjusting the outer legs of the kitchen set. Then unscrew the remaining supports so they sit firmly on the floor.

Installing legs on a kitchen set with your own hands is not difficult; it requires care and accuracy.

A folding table on a balcony or loggia is a very rational thing. You can read a book behind it. Sit with friends with a bottle of beer. Or drink a cup of coffee.

This article is dedicated specifically to folding structures. Such tables are often confused with stationary ones. In the photo on the Internet when unfolded, both the first and second ones are very similar. But if you take a closer look, the transformable table is more practical. It changes position and takes up virtually no space on the balcony or loggia.

There is only one way to fold at the wall tables on the balcony. When folded, they are pressed against the wall of the loggia. But the mechanism that is responsible for fixing the tabletop makes a big difference.

Convertible table with leg

Like all subsequent types (with the exception of tables with brackets), in this design the tabletop hangs on hinges fixed to the wall. When you lift it to a horizontal position, you simply place the leg as a support from below. And that’s it, the tabletop holds.

The legs are often made separate, not connected to the main part. As a rule, they are joined in deep hole at the bottom of the tabletop. The essence of this design is that the folded table hangs as close to the wall as possible. Its device is very simple and reliable.

To prevent the support from being lost, the mechanism was improved. It was simply screwed to the bottom of the table. Such a support has, on the one hand, a hinge, and on the other, a stop. Supporting part serves as a recess or piece of lath screwed to vertical surface self-tapping screws.

These legs can be attached to the wall. And it is fixed in the recess of the tabletop. As they say, change does not change the essence.

Table with folding support

Supports are usually a stationary thing.

They have a triangular shape or close to it and work in the same way as the upper part- on hinges. You lift the lid and move the support to the side. Sometimes it is fixed, for example, with a dowel + recess connection. Magnets or ball fasteners also serve as fasteners.

These tables are reliable and beautiful, but unlike options with a removable leg, they are not as compact. The thicker the tabletop and the leg itself, the further such a table is moved away from the wall. For example, a table with a removable leg extends beyond the wall by 2-3 cm, and a table with a flat support by 6-9 cm.

This difference often plays against such a transformer.

Table with folding arms

Over the past ten years, the industry has begun to produce mechanical brackets for folding tables.

The material for them, as a rule, is iron, ordinary iron, less often stainless steel.

There are usually not many colors in stores; you can find black, white, chrome-plated mechanisms. But there are a great many designs.

The table operates on brackets without hinges. Or rather, there are hinges, but they are implemented inside the bracket.

One part of the bracket is attached to the wall, the other to the tabletop. When the table cover is lifted, the mechanism opens 90° and locks itself. The moment of fixation is difficult to describe on paper. So let's look at the photo.

To lower the lid you need to pull it up or pull the lever.

DIY wooden kitchen table

At this time, the bracket will lower and the furniture can be folded.

The cheapest brackets can stick. The lid will fold back and not fold. In this case, you have to crawl under the table to unlock the mechanism.

Mechanism on gas-filled shock absorbers

IN lately a new mechanism has appeared for creating folding tables.

Our craftsmen have adapted cylinders with gas from back door car Niva as a support for folding tables.

It looks something like this: the tabletop hangs on hinges near the wall. A gas-filled cylinder is hidden under it. This entire structure is held vertically either by a strap or some kind of latch.

To bring the furniture into working position, you simply open the latch. At this moment, the gas in the cylinder pushes the piston, and with it the hinged lid, upward.

This design is new and has such advantages as: compactness (the cylinder has a diameter of only 18 mm), opening speed of only 3 seconds, simplicity of design.