Fiberglass is the only material that allows you to create a shape of any complexity yourself. Independent design of the bottom makes it possible to equip it with steppers of any configuration. Can be achieved maximum efficiency performance of the vessel, placing the redans in the most suitable places. In addition, the design of a homemade boat will reflect the character of its owner.

There is a manufacturing method homemade boat made of plywood and fiberglass, when plastic is used only for the outer covering of the boat. But this technology does not justify itself. The layer of plywood lying under the plastic quickly picks up moisture, which increases the weight of the vessel. Plywood quickly degrades due to the influence of microorganisms and the delamination process, because plywood is significantly inferior in strength to plastic.

How to make a boat? By carefully following all the rules, even a beginner can complete this task. Process simple and budget friendly. The ship's hull is created using reinforcing filler impregnated with a polymer composition.

Materials and drawing

Raw materials used as reinforcing filler in the manufacture of the frame:

• body base, sides – roving fiberglass fabrics TP-07, TP-03, TP-056;
• local strengthening of individual sections - structural fiberglass fabrics T-11, T-13.

Fiberglass can be different types by type of weaving, thread size. Mostly they choose “oblique” or satin weaving. The threads must be twisted. The material is sold in the form of sheets, rolls, tape.

Fiberglass fabric is sold impregnated with a greasy composition. In order for the fabric to be better saturated with the binder, the sizing should be removed using gasoline, white spirit or acetone. The fat-free fabric is dried in air for about 2-4 hours.

To glue the reinforcing material, you will need resin. There are three types of resins used in the shipbuilding industry: epoxy, vinyl ester, and polyester. The most important characteristics of resins when building a fiberglass boat from any type of fiber are adhesion and impregnation.

A cheap option is to use polyester resin, allowing you to create solid element made of fiberglass in one operation. You can use TM Ashland resin. To create a decorative body coating with protective properties, you will need a gelcoat. You will also need plywood at least 1.2 cm thick that is moisture resistant.

Making a boat is impossible without a competent drawing. The design of a future watercraft can be done using the AutoCAD program. First, a 3D model is created, then diagrams of frames and patterns. Ready drawings taken from specialized sites on the Internet. Now you can start making a fiberglass boat with your own hands.

Matrix

Directly production process Making a fiberglass boat with your own hands begins with building a matrix. First, a frame is made onto which the frames are attached. Next, they should be upholstered with twelve-millimeter plywood, trying to achieve as much as possible flat surface. The edges of the boat are made more rigid; a double layer of plywood is used for the sides.

Now you need to take a long time and carefully level the sides using polyester putty. It is necessary to eliminate all errors so that the design of the boat is stable. You can work with special template spatulas.

At the stage of matrix alignment, it is possible to provide such important detail boats are like a keel. It ensures smooth movement of a rowing or motor boat, eliminating agility. A homemade keel made of wood is filled with polyester resin.

By marking, all errors in the constructed matrix are identified. Using sandpaper, the edges are smoothed and smoothed, giving the future vessel symmetry. The finished form, free of dirt, is degreased, and an anti-adhesive compound is applied to it in 4 layers. It is necessary as a separator to prevent the resin from sticking to the surface of the mold.

Gel coat coating

After the wax layer has dried, a gelcoat is applied, which is the outer surface of the boat. This is a crucial moment on which depends appearance vessel. Gelcoat provides protection against scratches, ultraviolet radiation, and abrasions. It must be applied, achieving uniform coverage, avoiding bubbles and drips. Now you can begin laying the cut parts on a completely dry layer of gelcoat.

Case manufacturing

Fabric cutting is carried out by cutting off sheets corresponding to the length of the body. Canvases for laying along the waterline and keel should not have joints. If there is an impact on an obstacle, the material in this place can lift up and then peel off. Allowances should be left when cutting along the edges for overlaying. To sew pieces of fiberglass to obtain the required length, you can use glass threads, pulled out from the edge of the material, or linen impregnated with drying oil.

The fiberglass layer is evenly coated with a binder polymer resin. To do this, it is recommended to use a stitching roller. Air bubbles must be avoided, since voids remaining in some places weaken the structure. Next, the next layer of fiberglass is laid according to a similar pattern. Up to five layers of fiberglass can be applied. To obtain a more beautiful top layer, it is recommended to use a special “top” fiberglass.

Power frame and floor

To strengthen the body it is necessary to lay three wooden bars along the mold, which is then covered with two layers of fiberglass. The frames are installed every 30 cm, also applying fiberglass to them.

It is necessary to create a double sealed bottom, making the boat unsinkable even if it capsizes. The floor is covered with plywood sheets with moisture-resistant properties. The finished floor is covered with a couple of layers of reinforcing fabric, necessarily impregnated with polymer resin. The composition is allowed to dry completely.

Final stage

All that remains is to remove the finished boat from the mold, trim the allowances, sand the surface, mount the roof and timber to protect the sides. You can also do additional elements: seats, oar mounts, drawers. Using fiberglass, you can make any necessary accessories for the vessel with your own hands. After this, they begin painting.

Using a similar method, you can make your own fiberglass boats. Of course, the drawing and design of a boat is more complex than a boat, and more effort will be required. But the cost of a homemade product will cost half as much as the same finished vessel.

Repair

Repairing a fiberglass boat or boat is required when typical damage occurs:

• defects in the decorative layer;
• cracks in the body;
• holes and half-holes;
• divergence of angles;
• shells.

Basic materials for repair: fiberglass, epoxy resins. When starting repairs, it is recommended to place the damaged area closer to horizontal level. The surface must be clean, dry, and free of grease. A hairdryer, technical or household, may be required. Before starting to seal defects, the fiberglass fabric must be degreased, rinsed in a solvent, and dried thoroughly.

During emergency repairs, do not dry it over a fire, as soot will form. Before laying on the damaged area, the fiberglass fabric is soaked in a diluted compound (polyester or epoxy resin), and then pressed out by pulling it between two sticks. The repair area must be cleaned with coarse sandpaper down to the fiberglass layer, making it slightly terry.

Repairing damage

Minor damage in the form of scratches is repaired epoxy resin without filler or primer. A through-type scratch is removed by puttying with a compound with filler, after which the treated area remains sanded and painted over.

Small cracks can be simply covered with epoxy resin. If the body is cracked, the decorative layer down to the fiberglass is removed from both sides of the damage. After drying, it is filled with epoxy resin. To do this, press on each side of the crack, allowing it to open, and coat it. After this, the edges are combined and fixed. A strip of fiberglass fabric impregnated with the compound is placed on top, on both sides. After hardening, the repair area is sanded, covered with a layer of resin, sanded again and painted.

A half-hole is characterized by a break with a remaining piece of plastic. If the break is small, then you need to set the protruding piece back. To do this, it is necessary to treat all surfaces with the compound. Using a stop and a mallet, the piece is placed in place, with a bulge formed on one side and a dent on the other. Impregnated fiberglass fabric is placed on the convex area and secured with a weight. After polymerization, the half-hole is puttied with resin and filler. Further actions, grinding - laying the impregnated sheet, are repeated twice. Then sanding and painting are carried out.

The hole is sealed using a foam punch, preferably along the outer contours. Several patches are made from thick fiberglass fabric with tolerances of 3 to 5 mm, so that the thickness of the package corresponds to the thickness of the body. After installing the punch, the patches are glued. The algorithm for further actions is the same as in previous cases.

The discrepancy in the corners is eliminated in the same way as sealing cracks, but fiberglass is used in the form of a tape. The sink is the most unpleasant type of damage. Sometimes this is a manufacturing defect. It can form between the layers due to the ingress of water, which pushes the layers apart winter time. To repair, you will need to open the sink by drilling a hole until it enters the cavity.

Then a wide incision (up to 5 mm) is made at the site of its largest size. The opened cavity is dried with a hairdryer and filled with compound using a syringe. The processed shell is clamped into a press. Then the usual algorithm of puttying, sanding and painting is carried out.

Fiberglass is an excellent material for the manufacture of boats and boats, available for use. Self-made fiberglass boats are durable and strong, easy to repair. It should be taken into account that the components of the materials used in the work are not safe for health. It is necessary to work in rubber gloves, protective masks, goggles, and in a well-ventilated place.

All photos from the article

A boat is an indispensable element of fishing or summer recreation on the river. Of course, it's a good flotation device, even if it's small boat, is quite an expensive pleasure. However, you can make it yourself from plywood, and this task is not as difficult as many might think.

In this article we will look at how to build a plywood boat yourself, which can diversify your vacation.

General information

To build a plywood boat you only need a simple set of tools that everyone has home handyman, and also suitable material, patience and desire to get a quality result.

It should be noted that in addition to ease of manufacture, plywood floating craft has many other advantages, such as:

• light weight, which is very important, because before launching the boat into the water, you have to walk some distance. In its lightweight version, this product weighs 10-15 kg, so two adults can easily carry it. True, if the boat is made according to frame technology, the weight increases, however, it is still not critical for transferring over short distances;
• depending on the type of project, the capacity of the boat is up to 5 people, which is quite enough for a small family;
• If the manufacturing technology is followed, the design is strong and durable;
• manufacturing a watercraft does not require large financial expenditures, since the price of all materials is quite affordable.

Therefore, if you have free time and the desire to build a boat, there is no reason to abandon this idea.

Tools and materials

The main characteristics of the future boat, such as strength and durability, depend on the plywood from which it is made. Therefore, its choice must be approached very responsibly.

Regular FK plywood, which is used for making furniture, is not suitable for these purposes. Therefore, it is best to use sheets of the following brands:

In addition to the type of plywood brand, when choosing, you should also pay attention to its quality:

• there should be no gaps at the ends of the slabs;
• the surface should be free of knots and other defects.

Pay attention!
You should not use plywood that is too thick, as the sheets must be flexible.
That's why optimal thickness is 5–6 mm.

In addition to plywood, you will also need some other materials:

• boards and bars - must be dry and of high quality;
• fiberglass - it is more convenient to purchase in a roll and then cut into pieces of the required size;
• yacht varnish or waterproof paint.

As for the tools, the set is quite simple:

• jigsaw;
• sander;
• plane;
• hammer;
• clamps;
• tape measure and pencil;
• spatula.

Making a boat

Drawings

Before you start work, you need to prepare drawings on how to build a boat with your own hands from plywood. I must say that on the Internet there is large number all kinds of projects. Some of them are also available on our portal.

However, before choosing the optimal project, you should decide on the basic requirements for the watercraft, such as:

• size and capacity of the boat;
• appearance of the product;
• the complexity of the design is selected depending on the level of your skill. If this is your first time doing this kind of work, it is better to take a simpler project.

Having decided on these requirements, you can consider existing boat designs for self-built from plywood, and choose the most suitable one. If necessary, they can be slightly adjusted according to individual wishes.

Sawing parts

So, we have sorted out the choice of project, now we are building a boat from plywood with our own hands. As an example, let's look at how the simplest punt is made from one.

You should begin work by marking and cutting out parts.

This process is carried out as follows:

1. first of all, you need to mark the line of the bilge and transom (in diagram A, B, C);
2. then a part of the sheet is cut along the marked line with a jigsaw;
3. then the resulting workpiece should be applied to opposite side and circle with a pencil. Thus, it will serve as a template and ensure the symmetry of the boat. For convenience, the workpiece can be attached to the main sheet with clamps;
4. then the second part of the sheet is cut along the intended line;

1. after this you need to mark a line that will separate the transom from the bottom, and cut the transom along it;
2. At the end of the work, the cut areas need to be treated with sandpaper.

Advice!
The boat can be made larger.
In this case, before cutting the material, the sheets of plywood must be glued together, treating the joints with a plane.

Now that the main parts are completed, you can begin assembling the boat.

Assembly

Instructions for assembling the boat are as follows:

1. along the edge of the stern and transom, holes with a diameter of 1.5 mm should be drilled in increments of 150 mm;
2. then the transom must be screwed to the bottom with copper wire;
3. then the bottom needs to be laid on three stools. To ensure the necessary deflection, planks or books should be placed on the outer stools;
4. Next, the sides should be made from the two sections remaining after cutting out the bottom, taking into account the inclination of the transom. To do this, the workpiece must be attached to the cheekbone of the bottom. To make marking easier, you can make a hole in the upper part of the transom and screw the side to it. For this operation, you will need an assistant who will hold the side near the bow;
5. along the intended line, after which it should be used as a template for the second side;

1. then, along the edges of the side and the cheekbones of the bottom, holes with a diameter of 1.5 mm must be drilled in increments of 150 mm;
2. Now you need to fasten the parts with wire, taking into account the following nuances - the sides should be installed on the bottom and wound with wire with twists outward. The transom should be between the sides;
3. then the wire needs to be upset and tapped with a hammer;

1. Next, you need to insert a frame (partition), which can first be attached to the sides with self-tapping screws, as well as a can (seat). The design of the latter is a frame on top of which a board is attached;
2. then you need to make the strips and glue them along the sides;
3. At a distance of 300 mm from the seat, holes are made in the slats for oarlocks. In this place they can be strengthened with additional bars;

1. then the joints of the parts need to be glued with three layers of fiberglass and epoxy glue. The width of the bottom strip should be 25 mm, the middle - 40 mm, and the top - 50 mm. Before pasting, you need to bite off the outside of the paper clips;
2. after this you need to finally glue the partition and the jar;
3. wooden dowels must be glued into the holes for temporary screws and other fasteners with epoxy;
4. then the external seams are glued in exactly the same way;

1. to give the bottom greater strength and also to protect it from damage during mooring to the shore, a keel should be attached to the outside, as well as external stringers. For the latter, it is best to use larch slats. You can attach the slats using self-tapping screws and epoxy glue.

At this point, the main part of the work is completed, now all that remains is to finish the product.

Finishing

Further processing of the boat is performed in the following sequence:

• first of all, all irregularities in the epoxy glue should be sanded with sandpaper;
• existing defects must be filled with moisture-resistant putty;
• then the product is opened with varnish or painted. It is better to paint the boat with pentaphthalic paint intended for exterior use.

Advice!
To give the craft a more attractive appearance, you can combine paint and varnish.

This completes the boat manufacturing process. Now you just need to buy oars or make them yourself.

Having gained such experience, you can find more complex drawings of plywood boats for self-construction, for example, with a motor, and make a boat for long trips along the river.

Conclusion

Building a plywood boat, as we found out, does not contain any difficulties. The only thing is that this process should be approached step by step and slowly. Particular care and accuracy are required in the process of cutting the material and cutting out parts; otherwise, you just need to follow a certain sequence of actions.

The video in this article provides additional information on this topic. If certain aspects of making a plywood boat are not completely clear to you, you can ask questions in the comments, and we will be happy to answer them.

Many people, especially avid fishermen, want to have a good boat, but not everyone has the opportunity to purchase one. So the question arises: how to make a boat with your own hands? To those who consider such a task impossible, we immediately answer that this is not so. The main thing is to put in effort and effort.

Boat made of planks

When thinking about how to make a boat, you first need to decide on the wood. Alder, willow or spruce are perfect for this, but as they say craftsmen, there is no better boat made from simple pine boards. Perhaps such a boat is a little heavy, but the resinous wood is practically not subject to rotting.

Moreover, it is not necessary to paint it. Craftsmen believe that under a layer of paint the wood steams and rots. It is enough to saturate the boards, and used motor oil is suitable for this.

Wood preparation

At the sawmill, cut the boards to a thickness of 30 mm. After this, they need to be planed to a thickness of 25 mm. This will be quite enough. Moreover, they are planed only on the side that will be inside the boat.

Those who are not entirely sure how to make a boat should know that the length of the boards will be the length of the hull. You must choose it at your own discretion. It can be from 4 to 6 m.

When making a boat, take into account the fact that the wider the boards, the fewer gaps there will be in the boat, and this, accordingly, will reduce potential leaks. When connecting and bending boards, there will be gaps in any case, which is why they must be caulked immediately. To do this, use moss or a construction rope, and then additionally coat it with silicone.

Fastening all elements of the boat

If previously boards were fastened together with nails, now they have been replaced by self-tapping screws, which makes it possible to do this reliably and quickly.

When thinking about how to make a boat, do not forget about the shape of the sides. They can be either inclined or vertical. Although the latter are easier to manufacture, the navigability of the boat deteriorates as a result. That's why many people prefer to bend them. This is not to say that this is easy to do, but it is absolutely possible. The main thing is to know which devices to use for this purpose. It's good to do this with special clamps, and you need to bend slowly, gradually increasing the load. The boards must be periodically moistened with water. This gives them flexibility.

For greater reliability, the boat is equipped with stiffeners. They are usually made from oak boards. It is also used to create a pointed bow for the boat. Boards of the sides and bottom are inserted into it, and into special grooves. Self-tapping screws are not used for fastening here.

When deciding how to make a boat, you should immediately estimate the width of the front and stern. Usually in the bow the width reaches 80 cm, and in the stern area it decreases to 30-40 cm. In this case, it is better to make the sides no more than 40 cm high.

This shape of the boat makes it possible to easily steer it from the stern using one oar.

Rubber boat

Many fishermen prefer to use inflatable rubber boats for fishing. They have a number of advantages over wooden ones - they are compact and weigh little (no more than 6 kg), and if treated with care they last a very long time.

Those who do not have the opportunity to buy a factory-made boat are thinking about how to make a rubber boat themselves. If you have certain skills, this is a completely solvable problem.

Required materials

The best material for making rubber boat‒ rubberized BCC fabric. It is used to produce military equipment personal protection. It is very thin, light, durable, does not rot and is rubberized on both sides.

To sew the main elements of the boat, use nylon thread (No. 30). Sew them on sewing machine. To fasten the elements, rubber glue 4508 with natural rubber is used.

Manufacturing process

1. The drawings of a rubber boat are taken as a basis.
2. Patterns for the elements of the boat are cut out of thick cardboard.
3. On a large table, lay the fabric face down, place the patterns of the parts on it and trace them, and make a seam allowance of 1 cm.
4. The finished parts of the boat are first baited with nylon thread, and then stitched on a machine.
5. Then cut strips of fabric 50 mm wide and glue them on top of all the seams.
6. In this way, the bow and stern parts, as well as the side cylinders, are assembled.
7. After assembling the entire structure, an inflation valve is installed. For it, you can use a small piece of rubber hose or buy a ready-made factory-made one.
8. Then they move on to making the bottom. To do this, inflate the already made boat cylinder. A cloth is spread on the floor, a balloon is placed on top and a circle is drawn around it.
9. For the bottom you need to make two patterns. They are glued together and the resulting double bottom is glued to the bottom of the boat.

Such brief instructions gives general concept, how to make a boat yourself, as well as decide on materials and scope of work. We hope that our advice will be useful to you, and you special effort you can make a boat yourself.

Before starting to build a wooden boat, you need to take care of its most important parts in advance - sides. For this purpose, long, wide, not thick, preferably without knots, pine or spruce boards are selected. They must lie for at least one year in a dry place, on a flat surface with slight pressure on top to avoid their bending.

We inspect the prepared boards again for defects - cracks, falling knots, etc. Then we measure the required length (here, as well as further, specific dimensions of the parts of the boat will not be given, since all this is at your discretion) with a small margin and file each of them at an angle of 45 degrees - this will be the bow part.

Next, they need to be planed and chamfered from the sawn ends so that the boards pressed against each other in the bow do not have a gap.
We impregnate these areas, and subsequently all the others that will not be available for painting after assembling the structure. protective layer antiseptic.

After this, we proceed to making the base of the nose - a triangular block. Its length should exceed approximately 1.5 times the width of the sides of the boat. The timber is also planed and covered with a protective layer.

Don’t forget to leave a margin at the top and bottom, then after assembly, all excess will be cut off.

Having prepared these elements, we proceed directly to assembly. We start from the bow, firmly connect both sides and the triangular block with screws or nails.

We cut off the protruding parts at the top and bottom flush with the sides.

It must be exactly the same height as shown in the photo, otherwise the boards may burst during bending. The spacer angle should also not be made too large.

Having installed the spacer, we begin to bend the sides; here you will need a couple of assistants or a rope. Having bent to the required distance, we apply the “back” and determine where and how much to chamfer so that the sides adhere to it without gaps.

So, removing it little by little, we adjust it until we achieve the desired result.

Having achieved it, we nail down the sides and cut off the protruding parts from below, and from above as you want. It is better to do it in the form of a triangle.

Then we proceed to install the permanent braces and seats. Their number and location is at your discretion. When fixing them (and in general, in other places), be sure to first make a hole with a small drill in order to avoid the appearance of cracks.

We complete the very important initial stage by chamfering the bottom of the sides, spacers and applying a protective coating to them.

After the impregnation and wood glue have dried, you can begin making its bottom. For this we need a smooth galvanized sheet. It is desirable that its length matches the length of the vessel. It’s true that it’s not easy to choose one, the fact is that construction stores They sell mainly small sheets (1.2x2m, 1.5x2), and they are very reluctant to cut off large rolls. If you can't reach an agreement, take what you have. The bottom can be made from two sheets, but it will just be a little more complicated.

Using metal scissors, cut out a piece corresponding to the size of the bottom from the purchased galvanized steel. To make it easier to determine the length and width, we place the boat on a sheet of paper and outline it with a marker, with a small margin of 1.2-2 cm, just in case.

Next we need to prepare the lower parts of the sides. We apply sanitary with a gun silicone sealant a small layer in the form of a continuous winding thread. Then we lay a special cord directly on it in two rows. All this will reliably protect the bottom of the boat from leaking in the future.

If there is no sealant, replace it with regular paint; if there is no thread, put tow.

Having completed this, carefully place the cut piece of tin on the boat, align it and begin to fasten it.

For fastening, you can use galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer or nails. IN in this case we fasten using a method proven over the years - i.e. nails (1.8x32). We start work from the middle and move towards the edges. The work is monotonous and tedious, but there is no need to rush - protruding nails will not add beauty.

How often you need to prick them is shown in the photo.

We cut off those places where the tin protrudes beyond the edges by more than 5 mm. We tap the rest with a hammer, bending it onto the side.

The bow of the boat needs protection; we cover it with the same tin. We measure and cut out the desired piece in the form of a rectangle.

On that part of the sides that will be covered with galvanized steel, pre-impregnated with antiseptics (in general, by this time the boat needs to be covered with at least one layer of impregnation), we apply sealant with thread. After this, we apply the sheet as shown in the photo and nail it.

The edges of the tin should not extend beyond the triangle nose, otherwise the nails will come out.

We lay the galvanized sheets on top and bottom on top of each other, cutting off the excess and also fastening them with nails. The result will be a great nose, just a very sharp one. Therefore, we crumple or cut off its tip, so as not to damage swampers or fishing gear on it later.

A new boat on a pond will definitely attract attention. In order to somehow protect it from attacks or to prevent it from being carried away by the current, we make a fastening for a chain in the bow. For this we need a long bolt or pin. We drill a hole in the sides exactly along the diameter of the pin, secure it, and saw off the excess with a hacksaw.

The boat is almost ready. We cover it with an additional 2 layers of impregnation and leave it to dry in the shade.

If you wish, you can immediately take care of protecting the bottom of the boat by covering it with paint. Galvanization on the outside, in contact with water, deteriorates over time without additional coating.

To make it comfortable to walk on the tin bottom and not rattle, it is necessary to provide wood flooring. It can be of a wide variety of designs. For example this one.

Now we can confidently say that the boat is ready! A boat with a galvanized bottom is much lighter than one with a wooden one, and during operation it will be easier to prepare it for the next season after wintering. In terms of strength, it is in no way inferior to others. For example, after 10 years of use, my previous old boat’s sides rotted, but the bottom was okay.

Yes, and one more thing - do not skimp on the antiseptic, it is this, and not paint, that resists the destruction of wood much better.

If you end up with something similar or even better, you can be congratulated on your success.

I present several final photos of different people:

Based on materials from: grossoxota.ru

Video lessons on making boats with your own hands

Plywood boat

Sheet iron boat

IN winter period Many home craftsmen are thinking about building boats, because the price of a high-quality and reliable motor boat may not be affordable for many who like to go fishing, or just sail on a lake or river. The most reasonable way out of the situation is a do-it-yourself plywood boat, which you can build even without any special skills.

In this article we will talk about how to make a boat from plywood with your own hands, so that the end result is a reliable vessel with good running characteristics.

We build a boat ourselves

Building a plywood boat with your own hands is a much simpler task than it might seem at first glance. With due diligence, even a beginner can cope with the work.

The proposed design is very simple and affordable. It is designed for family walks (3-4 people), while it can be easily transported by car or carried manually.

Construction and materials

As a sample, we took the most optimal and universal option boats. The described boat has a length of 3.5 meters, a depth of 0.5 meters and a width of 1.35 m.

Advice!
To check the seaworthiness of the chosen design, make a mock-up of cardboard and test it in a bath of water.
If the structure does not sink, load it within reasonable limits to ensure that the chosen proportions are correct.

Materials you will need for work:

1. FSF plywood sheets 4 mm, dimensions 1240 x 2450 - 3 pieces.
2. Plywood sheets 6 and 10 mm thick.
3. Epoxy resin ED-531 – 5 kg.
4. Hardener (for example, Telalit) – 1 kg.
5. Microspheres (Cobasil) – 2 l.
6. 1 roll of fiberglass.
7. 1 roll of old wallpaper for making patterns.

Carrying out work

So, we build a boat out of plywood with our own hands.

It will help you with this simple instructions:

1. We transfer the bottom patterns to the wallpaper sheet.

Advice!
The easiest way to transfer the pattern is “in squares”.
This technique allows you to maintain proportions.
To do this, you need to draw a pattern with squares of 1 x 1 cm.
After this, its length and width are measured.
Next, according to the proportion, the size of the squares for the boat pattern is calculated, based on its actual sizes.
A sheet of wallpaper is marked onto which the design is transferred.

1. Transfer the pattern from the wallpaper sheet to a sheet of plywood.
2. We take a jigsaw and cut out the parts. (see also)
3. We cut out the side elements. When carrying out operations where temporary fastening of elements is necessary, it is advisable to use binders.
4. We process the symmetrical elements of the boat hull with a plane.
5. We drill holes for sewing the body together at intervals of 100 mm with a distance of 5 mm from the edge.
6. We sew together two elements of the bottom using nylon thread (similar to sewing felt boots).
7. We glue the bottom with epoxy resin and remove the fillet.

Advice!
It is most convenient to remove fillets on seams using a plastic spoon.

1. We cut the fiberglass into strips 5 cm and 7 cm wide. Cutting should be done at an angle of 45 degrees.
2. We anneal the resulting strips over a fire.
3. For the transom we use a plywood sheet, 10 mm thick. We glue the inner seam located on the bottom with fiberglass. Fiberglass fabric should be impregnated with “epoxy” by laying the film on the floor. This impregnation prevents the material from shedding.
4. Next, the plywood boat is completely sewn together with your own hands.
5. We sew in the transom using epoxy glue.
6. We glue the transom and internal side seams with fiberglass.
7. We make solid frames from sheets 6 mm thick.
8. We sew in the frames, after which it is necessary to glue them.
9. We make and glue the fender beam. Its outer parts should be pressed along the entire length with clamps and binders located between them.
10. From the remains of plywood we make and sew in the front frame and deck.

1. Gluing the internal elements fender.
2. We glue in the reinforcement of the transom board. It has the following dimensions: thickness – 25 mm, width – 130 mm.
3. We glue in a transom shelf (15 mm wide) and vertical brackets.

Advice!
The transom board reinforcement must be secured with screws while the epoxy dries.

1. We turn the boat over, placing it on the slipway. Brackets are sewn and glued under the seats.
2. All external seams must be covered with two layers of fiberglass.
3. Remove the screws from the transom. Their seats you should drill out and glue furniture chips instead of screws.

1. We make side steps that need to be “planted” with glue, secured from the inside with screws.
2. After the glue has hardened, remove the screws from the side and bottom steps.
3. We treat the boat with epoxy resin.
4. A do-it-yourself plywood boat for a motor must be completely painted on the outside. From the inside, only the bottom and bottom part sides.
5. The boat is installed in its normal position, after which upper part the fender is leveled with a plane and impregnated with epoxy resin.
6. The boat is ready. As you can see, a do-it-yourself plywood motorboat is quite feasible. All that remains is to purchase a motor so that we have a full-fledged powerboat. The price of such a vessel will be significantly lower than ready-made analogues sold in stores, while externally the homemade watercraft looks no worse than those produced by famous companies.

Conclusion

Today, many home craftsmen make plywood boats with your own hands. And if you really want, you can also make your own watercraft yourself. All you need is material and your diligence in work.

In the video presented in this article you will find additional material on this topic.

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