A backpack is the most convenient and practical thing. It's good to have a bag in your wardrobe in which you can carry sportswear to the gym, food, or just school supplies. To do this, you don’t have to spend a lot of money on buying a backpack, because you can sew it yourself.

To learn how to sew a backpack with your own hands, study this article.

Backpack Materials

If you decide to sew a backpack yourself, you should prepare the following materials:

• fabric (you can buy/use an old unnecessary thing);
• scissors, centimeter;
• needle and thread;
• buttons or lock.

The remaining tools are selected depending on the complexity of the selected product model.

How to sew a backpack correctly?

First you need to cut out two identical pieces of fabric - this is the basis of the product. If desired, an additional lining is sewn into the inside of the backpack.

When sewing two pieces together, you need to leave slits on the sides, into which the straps will then be inserted.

The color of the lining should match color scheme of the entire product. Laces or straps are used as ties. Depends on preference.

To thread the cord, bend top part backpack, and sew. If the cord is thin, use a pin to help guide the cord through the hole. All that remains is to sew on the straps and the product is ready.

Pattern for a backpack

If you are taking on sewing for the first time, it is better to use a pattern. It will help you sew the desired product correctly.

To create backpack patterns with your own hands, purchase special graph paper. Place all the parts of the backpack on it, leaving space for the seams.

Place the cut out parts on the fabric and trace the outlines. Secure with bobby pins so that the paper does not move and cut out. And then it’s all a matter of needle and thread.

Models

Modern fashion offers a wide selection of backpack models. They differ in shape, size and material.

The shape can be different: round, rectangular, etc. If you sew a backpack yourself, it is better to start with simple models.

Good materials include denim, suede and leather.

Depending on what purpose you are sewing a backpack, its size is selected.

Denim backpack

If you have old jeans lying around at home that you don't wear, you can turn them into a fashionable backpack. It has long become popular to sew a backpack from jeans with your own hands. It is not only economical, but also convenient and beautiful.

To do this you will need:

• old jeans;
• cord, buttons;
• needles and threads;
• metal rings;
• sewing machine.

For this option you don’t even need a pattern. Just cut the jeans correctly and take the necessary pieces of fabric. There is an alternative when the backpack is made straight from whole pants. It looks very cool and unusual.

Children's backpacks

Children love to wear bright and unusual things that make them stand out from other children. The backpack is an irreplaceable thing for a child at school, outdoors, etc. It is comfortable to wear and very roomy. It is advisable to sew it from durable material that will last a long time.

If you don’t know how best to sew a product, then look at photos of children’s backpacks made by yourself, and together with your child, choose the model you like and bring the idea to life.

An important point is the sewing of handles. They should be wide and not have hard edges so as not to rub the baby's skin.

Decorating: the best ideas

Jeans on their own beautiful material, not requiring additional decor. But if you want to create a bright and unique thing, there are simply a sea of ​​decorating methods.

The most popular ideas for decorating backpacks (not only denim ones):

• make scuffs and holes yourself (hooligan style);
• create an applique of rhinestones or small mirrors;
• metal rivets;
• embroidery, bright buttons.

It is also fashionable to decorate a girl’s backpack with drawings of cats and flowers. This is not the entire list of ideas circulating on the Internet.

Summing up

You don't have to spend a lot of money on standard backpacks. After all, creating a unique and inimitable thing is easy. In terms of quality, self-sewn backpacks are not inferior to purchased ones. So feel free to pick up a needle and thread and get creative.

Photos of DIY backpacks

In Soviet times hiking backpack Almost every tourist sewed with his own hands, because the shops were filled with soft Abalakov or easel “Ermaks”; we saw new models only in photographs in the magazine “Tourist”. Although, of course, sewing tourist backpacks was not an easy task, because everything was in short supply: from fabric to accessories.

But if you have a desire and free leisure, and there is hidden in the bins suitable fabric and accessories are mine step by step instructions on how to sew a 90-liter hiking backpack (frame) will help you make a truly useful product.

Useful articles:

DIY hiking backpack: materials and accessories

In order to sew a tourist backpack with your own hands you will need:

Thick nylon such as avisent or cordura - 3 sq. m or cut 1.5*2 m
Thin nylon like parachute silk or bologna - 1 sq. m or cut 1.5*0.70 m
Izolon (tourist foam mat) - 1 sq. m, thickness 1 cm
Narrow sling, 25 mm – 7 m
Wide sling 45 mm – 2 m
Tightening buckle – 14 pcs.
Snap buckle – 2 pcs.
Snap buckle, wide for a belt – 1 pc.
Zipper – 20 cm, 1-3 pcs. depending on the number of pockets
Zipper – 30 cm, 1 pc.
Tape for strengthening seams – 2 m, width 1-1.5 cm
Rope for tube – 1.30 m, diameter 3 mm
Aluminum tube – 2 pcs., length 70 cm, diameter 4 mm
or plate – 2 pcs., length 70 cm, width 2 cm

The dimensions on the hiking backpack pattern are indicated in centimeters, excluding seam allowances. If you want to sew not a 90 liter backpack, but a 75 liter backpack, then reduce all dimensions of the “body” of the backpack by 10 cm, the height of the back of the backpack by 10 cm, and the circumference of the tube by 20 cm.

How to sew a backpack: cutting out the main elements

Sewing a tourist backpack begins with cutting out its main elements. After cutting, do not forget to melt the edges of the fabric with a lighter so that they do not fray. It is better to stitch the seams with nylon or lavsan threads, using a zigzag. If the machine does not sew with a zigzag, make two parallel lines.

Rice. 1. The “body” of the backpack is 75*80-85 with designated places for pockets if you need them (I recommend only one - the central one). At the bottom in the corners you can immediately sew slings, 40 cm long and 25 mm wide, reinforcing them with fabric scarves.

Rice. a, b. Pattern of pockets, you need to sew a zipper into them (we leave the place of sewing it at your discretion, we advise you to decide on this in advance before you start sewing a tourist backpack with your own hands).

Rice. 2. The back of the backpack is 75*30 with a bottom 26*33 made of thick nylon. The bottom can be sewn separately, but it is better to cut them in one piece, which reduces the number of seams.

Rice. 3. Shoulder straps: two of thick nylon, two of thin. You need to cut two blanks from isolon (foam) of the same shape. The second strap needs to be cut out in a mirror image.

Sew tight and fine detail, stitching them to each other along the contour. Turn it inside out and insert a strip of isolon inside. Sew a 25 mm wide sling on top of the thick side of the strap, sewing it crosswise in 3-4 places. The sling should end where the strap ends and end with a tightening buckle.

Rice. 4. Valve 32*26. Cut and sew, sewing on thin fabric (Fig. c), as if making a box. Sew a 30 cm zipper, either along the seam or in the center of the wide wall, making a slit. Sew 4 tightening buckles at the corners.

Sewing a hiking backpack: making the back

Now let's get down to the most difficult thing in such a matter as sewing a hiking backpack - making the back.

Rice. 5. Take the previously cut back of the backpack (Fig. 2). Sew 2 strips 2.5-4 cm wide to it (tunnels for the future frame - tubes or plates).

A 25 mm wide sling is suitable for the tubes, and a strip of thick nylon for the plates. Sew 6 tightening buckles as indicated on Rice. 5, 4 slings of 25 mm - 2 each at the top and bottom. In the center of the back, sew a loop-handle from a 25 mm sling at a distance of 25 cm from the top edge.

Rice. 6. Sew the finished shoulder straps over the handle loop. If your height is 170-180 cm - at a distance of 50 cm from the bottom edge. If higher - 55 cm. If lower - 45 cm. If you are not trying for yourself, then check this parameter before sewing a backpack.

Rice. 8. Cut out the part from isolon and soft nylon. Stitch them together.

Rice. 7. Sew the part from Fig. 8 on the back of the backpack over the straps. Bottom part Sew the parts (trapeze) in two lines across the back, so that a belt can be inserted between them.

Rice. 9. The belt is made in the same way as shoulder straps (Fig. 3): stitched together thick fabric, isolon, thin fabric. Sew a wide sling on top (you can use a car seat belt), and sew a wide snap buckle on one side. Sew 2 additional slings, 25 mm wide and 40 cm long, to the edges of the belt (they will attach the belt to the “body” of the backpack), and sew tightening buckles where they “join” the backpack.

Rice. 10. Take the "body" of the backpack (Fig.1) and sew 25 mm wide slings onto it as shown in the figure.

Details Rice. 10 And Rice. 7 Sew together inside out - pockets and straps inward, and seams outward.

Reinforce the main seams by sewing tape to them.

Rice. 11. Cut out a tube in the form of a tube from soft fabric 30*110. Fold the fabric on its wide side to form a drawstring and stitch it. The width of the drawstring is 1-2 cm, depending on the thickness of the rope for tightening the tube that you are going to thread into it.

Sew the tube to the top of the backpack. Turn the backpack inside out. Insert into pre-sewn stripes (Fig.5) aluminum plates or tubes, cut to size before sewing the backpack. Fasten the flap, insert the belt and tuck the second part of the fastening buckle into one of its lines. Fasten the belt with thin straps to the backpack.

Inspect the backpack, if you think something is missing, add it. Ready! You managed to successfully sew a hiking backpack with your own hands!

Perhaps, by improving our patterns, you will sew a more advanced hiking backpack with your own hands.

Dmitry Ryumkin especially for

It is intended for older children going on multi-day hiking trips.

Several designs of easel backpacks have been developed. We are talking about one of them today.

The design of the proposed easel backpack is relatively simple, and its manufacture requires basic metalworking skills and the ability to sew on a sewing machine.

When placing equipment in a backpack, you can place the load more rationally, since thanks to the machine, the contents of the backpack do not touch your back, and therefore it is not necessary to put soft things under your back. Distributing the load along the back in the form of a flat rectangle creates the least load on the back and abdominal muscles.

The general view of the easel backpack is shown in Figure 1. The backpack is assembled from a machine (1), a fabric bag (2), a U-shaped bracket (3) stretched on the frame, supporting the upper rear edge of the fabric bag, two shoulder straps (4) and two transverse straps (5) with which the backpack rests on the back.

The design of the backpack frame is clearly visible in Figure 2. It consists of two longitudinal and five transverse pipes, as well as two duralumin rods parallel to the longitudinal pipes. Curved structural elements (upper and lower cross tubes) give the frame the necessary rigidity when moving in the plane of the frame. The three lower transverse pipes have a slight (40-T-45 mm) deflection in the direction perpendicular to the plane of the frame (Fig. 2, right), due to which the tourist’s back does not touch the frame pipes.

The most suitable for the manufacture of the frame are thin-walled duralumin pipes D16-T and D1-6 0 18-22 mm for longitudinal pipes and 0 14-^-16 mm for transverse ones. Before flexible pipe It is necessary to fill it tightly with sand and plug it with wooden plugs. Heat the bending areas red-hot and, after bending, immediately cool them in a bucket to preserve the strength of the material.

The joints of longitudinal pipes with curved transverse pipes are shown in Figures 4a and 4b. Duralumin wire 03+4 mm can be used as rivets.

Figure 4c shows the method of attaching the bag to the backpack frame. The eyelet 1, riveted to the fold of material formed by the front 2 and side 3 walls of the bag, is put on a pin protruding from the longitudinal tube of the frame. Then, through the hole at the end of this pin, a wire pin 4 is passed from top to bottom, which does not

allows eyelet 1 to fall down and holds the bag on the frame.

The pins to which the top and bottom eyelets of the bag are attached are aluminum rivets 0 6 mm, at the ends of which a hole with a diameter equal to the diameter of wire pin 4 is drilled perpendicular to the axis. The length of the rivet pins is selected depending on the thickness of the eyelets and the diameter of the longitudinal pipes of the frame. 4 pins can be used steel wire 0 3 mm and 500 mm long with an end bent on one side at a right angle.

The fastening of the middle eyelets of the bag to the frame and the method of connecting the transverse pipes of the frame with the longitudinal ones are shown in Figure 4d.

Inside the transverse pipe 5 there is a plug machined from duralumin, which is attached to the pipe 5 with a fastening pin 3. The transverse pipe 5 is inserted into a hole drilled in the longitudinal pipe 4. The end of the plug of the transverse pipe 5 forms a pin onto which a grommet 1 is placed, riveted to bag material 2. Through the hole drilled at the end of the plug pin, a wire pin 6 is threaded, holding the grommet to the frame.

Figure 3 is given general view cloth bag.

The top front edge of the bag is attached to the frame with two sewn canvas loops. A U-shaped wire bracket is threaded through the rear upper edge, supporting it in the position shown in Figure 1. The lower bent ends of the bracket are inserted into the corresponding holes in the backpack frame. The bracket, like the longitudinal rods of the frame, is made of 0 6 mm duralumin wire.

The pattern of the bag (given without seam allowance in Fig. 5) is designed for the width of the tarpaulin - 85: 90 cm.

The seams connecting the anterior and side walls backpack, form a fold to which the eyelets are riveted.

The design of a homemade grommet is shown in Figure 6. It consists of two brass washers 1 outer 0 14-15 mm and copper or brass tube 2. Material 3 is laid between washers 1 and tube 2 is flared on both sides (Fig. 6, 7).

It is best to sew a bag and cross straps (8-10 cm wide, folding the material in half or three times) from a thin, durable tarpaulin

Any ready-made backpack you have can also be used in this design. large sizes. You just need to sew a strip of tarpaulin to it with eyelets for attaching it to the frame and sew on a new (large) flap.

Each young tourist can carry out a detailed study and adjustment of the design of the backpack to his height independently, changing the length of the shoulder straps and moving the transverse straps up and down the frame.

A. LEVANSV Fig. B. LISENKOVA

Comfort in a backpack

(End. See page 11 for beginning.)

Flashlight dimensions: height - 68 mm, diameter - 25 mm, weight with battery - 38 g, without battery - 18 g.

CHAIR AND TELEVISION

The trolley chair of Moscow tourist V. Stroganov has been tested on hikes for four seasons and has proven itself well.

This cart can hardly be called a cart. It looks more like a bag on wheels. Nevertheless, it is indispensable for transporting a kayak. To make it, you need to have a folding fishing chair, two wheels (preferably inflatable ones from children's bike), a piece of steel tube for the axle on which the wheels are attached with cotter pins, and two couplings, which are two flattened pieces of duralumin tube with holes.

To transport the packed kayak, you insert U-shaped tubes from the fishing chair into through canvas pockets sewn onto the kayak cover. Place couplings with an axle and

wheels. Secure the couplings to the tubes with cotter pins and transport the kayak.

When transferring from one body of water to another or when crossing rapids, the cart is tied under the bottom of the kayak, and it can be easily transported with things without completely unloading it. On such a cart you can transport two three-seater Salyut kayaks and a Salyut-2 motor, securing it to the axis. To reduce the overturning moment, it is necessary to slightly modify the design by increasing the base of the trolley.

BACKPACK WITH SEMI-RID FRAME

When going on a trip, a tourist will first take care of his backpack. A comfortable, well-packed backpack will save you from many troubles along the way. Now our industry produces several types of backpacks: hunting, children's, expedition, etc.

What should a tourist do when going on a hike for the first time?

A tourist from the city of Rubtsovsk, V. Nuzhny, proposes to modernize an ordinary hunting backpack: make a semi

rigid frame and canopy cape (cover) For sleeping bag.

SEMI-RID FRAME - a 0 22 mm duralumin tube sewn into the upper part of the back wall of the backpack allows the backpack to maintain a flat shape. By making slits in the backpack, you can attach straps to the frame, which bear the main load and often come off in a regular backpack.

CAP LOGO (COVER) makes it possible to change the volume of the backpack by attaching the sleeping bag from the outside. The upper part of the canopy-cape is fastened with buttons, the lower part is secured with straps that are sewn to the backpack. The canopy-cape must be sewn from dense, preferably waterproof material.

To change the volume of the backpack, there are also Ribbons that are sewn inside the backpack: three on the left and three on the right. Zip ties divide the internal cavity of the backpack into three parts - this allows you to properly distribute things and products.

It is most convenient to place the heaviest objects in the side sections of the ryunzan, obtained from the screed.

On weekend trips, when there are few things and provisions and additional capacity is not needed, this backpack can be compared to a regular hunting one.

Hiking is unthinkable without backpacks. Everyone who puts on a backpack wants it to be comfortable, first and foremost. Maybe that's why there are so many opinions about their design, shapes and sizes. However, when making backpacks, first of all, as a rule, the general requirements developed by many years of practice are taken into account. Backpacks must: meet the specifics of the type of tourism and the goals of the trip; be capacious enough to accommodate the entire travel cargo, and if the volume is smaller, have devices for tying the cargo outside; be made of durable and preferably waterproof, but not heavy material that retains elasticity even in the cold; ensure quick removal of the most necessary things without unpacking the entire backpack, as well as even distribution of the load (the design of the backpack should allow you to remove excess load from the shoulders). The last requirement is met by the use of machines, hip belts and widened shoulder straps (with elastic pads) and the anatomical characteristics of backpacks. The benefit from this is undoubted - tourists can carry hiking equipment of significant weight with less effort, while observing safety measures.

Easel backpacks differ from each other mainly in the shape of the frame, size and methods of attaching the container to it. The frames are made of duralumin (titanium) tubes with a diameter of 10-12 mm, welded or bolted together. Best material for bags - durable nylon.

A distinctive feature of the universal easel backpack is the ability to use the machine and the backpack together or each separately.

The dimensions of the backpack allow you to carry the most voluminous items of tourist equipment. In its manufacture, only four metal rings were used to attach the shoulder straps to the bottom of the backpack. The tightening straps, or ties (2), can be tied in the loops (8) without even taking off the mittens, which is important in winter hikes.
The backpack is made in the following sequence: cut out all the parts; sew the top flap and shoulder straps (shoulder straps are easiest to sew from nylon tape folded in two layers, making a T-shaped end in the wide part: this ensures they are permanently sewn to the backpack); sew with inside bag in the place where the shoulder straps are attached, a second layer of nylon, loops for straps that tighten the backpack, shoulder straps and flap; sew the bag's container along the length and sew on the outer pocket; sew the bottom, ties, rings and loops.
At the bottom of the shoulder straps it is necessary to sew elastic pads made of felt, felt or polyethylene foam, lined with nylon.

The backpack machine is made in the form of a cone with a support platform. To attach the shoulder straps, brackets are used, which are secured to the top crossbar with nuts. There are four brackets on the support platform: loops with metal rings are threaded into two, and loops for backpack ties are threaded into the other two. A support belt with lacing is attached to the bottom of the machine to regulate its tension.

In order to use the machine without a backpack, you must have two separate shoulder straps.

A positive feature of the best examples of modern backpacks is considered to be their adaptation to the anatomical characteristics of a person, which makes it possible to bring the centers of gravity of a person and the backpack he is carrying closer together, evenly distributing the load, which allows travelers to carry heavy loads over long distances with the least physical effort (while maintaining the usual upright posture ).

Such backpacks are divided into three groups: soft (frameless), with rigidities (a kind of internal frame made of tubes, plywood plates, etc.) and those load-bearing element which makes up the frame - the box.

Among the frameless foreign samples, the backpack “Yak-pek” (“pack for a yak”) was originally designed. Its shape is an example of anatomy: a backpack with a load fits as tightly as possible to the back, the weight is distributed not only on the shoulders, but also on the lower back, which is also facilitated to a certain extent by the straps crossing on the chest (cruciform support).

Transitional between soft and classic frame backpacks are backpacks in which the side adjacent to the back is partially reinforced with metal or synthetic plates that form an internal frame. The so-called anatomical backpack has become widespread.

Duralumin plates are used as the internal frame, which are curved to the shape of the back. At the same time, there remains a gap between the back and the backpack. The successful combination of a back saddle with a pad and a waist belt with reinforced hip wings allows you to transfer the weight of the backpack mainly to the hip part of the body, relieving the shoulders. The design of the backpack allows you to adjust the carrying system to the individual characteristics of a person’s figure, different shapes and the volume of carried cargo by changing the distance between the shoulder and waist belts (by shortening or lengthening the back suspension). Two straps connecting the shoulder straps to the top of the backpack eliminate unwanted tilting of the backpack back and moving its center of gravity away from the back.

An anatomical modified backpack that differs from other backpacks of the same type in the lack of frame rigidity. Its anatomy is achieved curly shape soft capacity, providing a fit over almost the entire surface of the back, in combination with a supporting hip belt and shoulder straps, taking into account individual characteristics tourist figures.

It is advisable to sew the main container of the backpack from calendered lavsan, for example, “Yacht” fabric, or from technical nylon weighing 150-220 g/m2, pockets and tube - from thick parachute nylon, and the bottom - from waterproof fabric or thick nylon.

The height of the backpack should not exceed 90-100, the width – 45 (approximately the width of the shoulders), and the thickness – 25 cm. A backpack of this size fits into the curve of the back and rests firmly on it. For ease of packing, especially in winter conditions, it is advisable to make the upper part of the backpack wider than the bottom by increasing the size of the side walls. The dimensions of the container in height can be reduced by tightening the tube, and along the perimeter - with ties, which can be placed on the sides or on the front wall.

The straps and waistband should fit comfortably around your shoulders and hips and not wrinkle under the weight of the backpack. The crescent-shaped, rather than straight, shape of the shoulder straps is most convenient. The most important detail an anatomical modified backpack - a supporting hip belt, expanded from the sides (the hips are loaded more and the load on the abdominals is reduced). The side parts of the belt (flaps) should be made more dense, using, for example, polyethylene foam plates covered with nylon. The belt ends with a buckle, which should quickly unfasten and easily adjust the length of the belt.

The valve is sewn in a trapezoidal shape, with an elastic band threaded around the perimeter. You can make a pocket on the flap that can be closed with a zipper. Instead of pockets on the sides, you can make two pockets on the front wall.

Individual fitting of the harness system is achieved by correctly determining the location of sewing on the shoulder straps (distance from the bottom) and the waistband.

Deserves special attention various options shoulder strap attachments. The straps are attached: to the bottom edge of the backpack through the rings on the belt; directly to the belt near the vertical line of the hip; also to the belt, but with a shift of 12-15 cm forward.

The advantages of the second and third methods lie mainly in the fact that when the belt is unfastened, the length of the shoulder straps increases: getting dressed and especially throwing off the backpack in an emergency are easier. However, the third method is not without its drawback: such fastening tightens the belt and loads the abdominal muscles. Each tourist must choose the method that suits him best. The length of the shoulder straps is adjustable using buckles when the backpack is on and the belt is fastened.

A wide variety of buckles are used for backpacks. The frame buckle consists of a rectangular wire frame (1) welded at the junction and an aluminum movable bridge (2). To make it easier to work in cold weather, it is recommended to sew a 5 cm long strap to the free end of the frame. This buckle is usually used for thick belts.

For thin and medium-thick belts, buckles with a movable frame and three-slit buckles are preferred.

Most willingly, tourists use buckles used to fasten scuba gear (Fig. 17, d) and consisting of a plate (1) and a double-slit tail (2), with which the length of the belt is adjusted. For ease of use, the belt is passed through in the same way as in a three-slot buckle.

Quick release and adjustment of the belt length is ensured by a buckle consisting of two plates (Fig. 17, d), the slots of which are located so that the belt is easily tightened and firmly held in the desired position.

For the backpack valve, it is recommended to combine any buckle with a carabiner (Fig. 17, e). Several rings can be sewn to the front wall of the backpack at certain intervals, to which carabiners are fastened, thus adjusting the belt tension.

You can tighten the neck of the backpack using the buckle shown in Fig. 17, f. It consists of a frame and a wedge (wooden, metal or plastic).
For the manufacture of buckles, duralumin or titanium with a thickness of 1-2 mm and steel spring and soft wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm are usually used.

Every tourist, at least once, thinks that something is missing from his hiking backpack. Taking into account the individual characteristics of the body structure, it is sometimes difficult to choose a similar item for yourself. But in in capable hands the fabric easily turns into a comfortable backpack. Design hiking backpack only looks complicated and incomprehensible, but If you follow the instructions, you can sew it yourself.

Fabrics

It is important that the hiking backpack is durable and waterproof. Therefore, the choice of fabric is approached with special attention. The following materials are suitable for its manufacture:

• Adviser- was developed for the army and has the appropriate characteristics: durable, lightweight, inexpensive, withstands low temperatures, lets water through, frays when cut;

• cordura- also invented for the army: available in different densities, water-repellent, does not crumble, expensive, heavy, does not tolerate low temperatures;

• Oxford- fabric with a matting weave and nylon content: light, inexpensive, heat-resistant (does not lose properties from -50 to +110 degrees C), waterproof, fades when exposed to direct sunlight;

• polyester- for greater strength and moisture resistance, they are treated with polyvinyl chloride: cheap, lightweight, does not change properties in frost and sun, does not deform, does not crumble, does not withstand heavy loads, does not protect from moisture.

Advice! When choosing a material, you should take into account the planned loads and conditions of use.

Accessories and additional materials

For practicality Additionally you will need:

• thin nylon (with a width of 150 cm) - 70 cm;
• Isolon (foam) 10 mm thick - 1 sq. m.;
• sling 25 mm - 7 m;
• sling 45 mm - 2 m;
• fastex 25 mm - 2 pcs.;
• fastex 45 mm - 1 pc.;
• tightening buckle - 14 pcs.;
• stop clamp - 1 pc.;
• zipper 30 cm - 1 pc.;
• zippers 20 cm - according to the number of pockets;
• aluminum tubes for frame D4, length 70 cm - 2 pcs.;
• cord D3 - 1.3 m;13. tape for finishing seams - 2 m.

Fabric calculation

The simplest and most accurate method for calculating fabric- this is to make a layout on graph paper using a scale (cutting) ruler. In this way it is possible to calculate as accurately as possible required quantity material.

In this case, you will need 2 m of fabric with a width of 150 cm.

Important! Sewing such a product will require at least 3 square meters. m. of base material.

Step-by-step cutting and sewing of a hiking backpack

Below is the construction of a 90 liter backpack.

Initially, the details are drawn on paper, cut out and cut out of the material. To make it more convenient to cut the paper pattern, pin it to the fabric and trace it with chalk, adding allowances.

For sewing you will need the following parts:

• the back and bottom of the product are made one-piece, the height of the part is 101, of which the back is 75x30, the bottom is 30x26x33;
• the main part is in the shape of a trapezoid with dimensions 80x75x85.
• one pocket measuring 25x25, and two - 25x15;

Reference! The number of pockets depends on the wishes of the owner, but 3 pieces are sewn on as standard.

• the straps are drawn curved with a length of 65 and a width of 8 and are cut from all three materials;
• valve 30x25 with folds, cut out of thin nylon and stitched at the corners;
• the back cover is 50 high and 20 wide at the top and 25 at the bottom, cut from nylon and isolon;
• the belt is cut out, as well as the straps, from all materials with a length of 70;
• tube 110x75, cut out of thin nylon.

Important! All dimensions are indicated in centimeters and do not take into account seam allowances; usually add 0.7 - 1 cm.

After all the details have been cut out and the necessary accessories have been prepared, we begin sewing.

According to the marks, pockets with sewn-in zippers are attached to the “body” of the backpack. Two slings 2.5 cm wide are sewn vertically between them and horizontally above and below the pockets.

Two slings are attached from the upper corners down to the back 25 mm wide, the top is left open so that the frame can be inserted there later. Tightening buckles are attached to the sides at a distance of 30 and 55 cm from the bottom on both sides and two to the upper corners. And two slings on top and bottom. Step back 25 cm from the top and grind the handle in the center. The straps are adjusted under it, having previously assembled them from the main fabric, thin nylon and isolon between them. Adjust the overlay by covering the ends of the straps, leaving the sides open for the belt along the bottom.

Based on the shoulder strap principle collect the belt. Only additionally a wide sling with fastex is sewn on top. Two 2.5 cm slings, 45 cm long, are sewn to the edges, and tightening buckles are sewn to connect to the backpack.

Assembling the valve so that it looks like a box, narrow tightening buckles are sewn into the seams in the corners, with which it will be attached to the base. Sew in the zipper by making a slit in the center.

Connect the back and base of the backpack together, putting them face to face. The main seams are reinforced with braid.

Tube grind it down and make a drawstring 2 cm wide on top. A rope is inserted into it and the ends are threaded into the stop clamp. They grind it to the backpack and insert aluminum tubes into the tunnels made earlier.

Having collected all the parts together, you should carefully examine the product and, if something is missing, add it.

Reference! When making your first backpack, you should try your hand at mock-up cheap fabric.

Useful tips

• You can cut the fabric with a special soldering iron, in which case the edges will melt and will not fray;
• to get a backpack with a volume of 75 liters, reduce the main part on all sides and the height of the back by 10 cm, and the length of the tube part by 20 cm;
• shoulder straps are placed at a distance of 50 cm from the bottom for height 170 - 180 cm, for greater height - 55 cm and for shorter height - 45 cm;
• It is better to sew with strong nylon threads;
• To make the seams stronger, it is better to sew with a zigzag or double seam.

Patterns can be improved individually. For example, increase or decrease the size and number of pockets. A backpack sewn by yourself will become an indispensable companion on any hike.