How to cut laminated chipboard without chipping

So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to write another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing laminated chipboard without chipping .

There is a fairly fair opinion that clean sawing of laminated chipboard can only be done using professional equipment (that is, a format-cutting machine).

The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first one cuts the chipboard, the second one cuts it right through.

The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR AN Amateur.

Of course, if you decide to make a cabinet with your own hands. then it’s better to order a sheet cut (five square meters piece) in the workshop, and then calmly assemble it. BUT WHAT TO DO IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE IN THE CALCULATIONS AND YOU NEED TO CUT A PIECE OFF. I don’t want to drag myself back to the workshop, but I need to cut.

This article aims to answer this question. The review of options will go from simple to complex. Unfortunately, not all methods will be illustrated (please forgive me in advance), I will try to compensate for this shortcoming with text????

Method 1 - Scratch

The old-fashioned way. Previously it was used for sawing Soviet laminated chipboard coated with a thick layer of varnish. Nowadays it is rarely used. Using a ruler, use an awl or a simple nail to scratch a marking line to the thickness of the decorative coating.

After that, we saw along the line, trying to ensure that the edges of the saw teeth fall exactly into the scratch and not go past it. You can cut with either a jigsaw or a hand hacksaw.

In principle, in the photo on the right you can see that all the chips remained on the piece without a scratch, and they did not go beyond the scratched line.

Detailed tutorial on this method

The cut is much cleaner than when sawing without a scratch, but chips do occur. It is difficult to keep the tool strictly along the line. Very slow.

Short cuts of acceptable quality can be made with a simple jigsaw. To do this, several conditions must be met.

Firstly, the file must have a minimum tooth size (that is, for metal) and be new. In this case, on one side (where the teeth enter the material) the cut will be almost clean. On the opposite side, there will be chips, but relatively few.

Secondly, the tool must be fed smoothly, without pressure. The speed should not be set to maximum (slightly above average.

The disadvantage of this method is that it is quite difficult to maintain the strict straightness of the cut, as well as the presence of a small number of chips.

Method 3 - Circular saw

To work with a circular saw, we need a “finishing” saw blade (again, with a fine tooth). It is more convenient to make long straight cuts with circular saws than with a jigsaw. But in this case, much more chips are formed (the side where the teeth cut into the material (top) is usually clean. It breaks off pieces with opposite side(bottom)).

You can cut like a free-flying saw (it’s quite difficult to guide exactly along the line). It is difficult to cut several identical parts - there is a lot of hassle with markings.

Same with a saw fixed to the table. When using guides, sawing is much more convenient. Both hands are free. You can use a guide, which will increase the cutting accuracy and allow you to stamp identical parts.

Even if you use a finishing disc, there will be a lot of chips on one side.

Method 4 - Sawing with trimming

This is a modification of working with circular saw. Ideally, this will require a plunge-cut saw. but, in principle, you can get by with an ordinary circular saw. To work, we need a ruler (tire), which is fixed to the workpiece with clamps. It can be purchased or homemade (pictured simple circular with a homemade tire).

The whole trick is to, by analogy with a cutting machine, make two cuts strictly along the same line.

Cutting along a tire (long ruler) will help us with this. The tire is placed along the marking line, after which we first make the first cut, cutting the laminate, about 6-10 mm deep. In this case, the teeth run almost parallel to the surface of the laminate, without tearing out pieces of it.

If you enlarge the photo it will look something like this

The second cut is through. At the same time, as we remember, no chips are formed at the point where the tooth enters the material. And at the exit point, the laminate has already been cut and there is nothing to prick.

This is a good way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the entire cabinet this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount quite comparable to the formatter (it also, secretly, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markings. Only straight cuts can be made.

Provides the cleanest possible edge to the workpiece, the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.

With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating 2-3 mm from the marking line, and then align the line according to the template (I usually use a second piece of laminated chipboard, sawed on a format saw, of a suitable size). The cutter must be copying, that is, with a bearing.
Very clean cut. Possibility of carrying out curved cuts, that is, the production of many radius parts. including several completely identical ones. Disadvantages - a lot of hassle: the need for precise marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, setting a template or tire for the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.

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It is extremely rare that when carrying out repairs using chipboards, it is possible to do without cutting the material. Unfortunately, owners often cannot cut chipboard so smoothly that there are no chips or other damage. But with a competent approach to carrying out such an event, it is still possible to get quite a good result. To do this, you need to perform the following steps.

Preparing tools for cutting chipboard

You can cut a chipboard board with an ordinary hacksaw. But in this case, it is necessary to select a tool that has very fine teeth. More a good option The use of a jigsaw is considered. It should also have a fine-toothed file installed. The most a successful tool For high-quality cutting Chipboard is considered a circular saw, but not everyone has this tool. Therefore, it is used extremely rarely.

Marking on chipboard

You can cut the slab evenly only if you first apply markings to it. A sharp awl is used to apply markings. In this case, it is necessary to leave a small gap when performing it. A gap of only 2 mm is sufficient. There is no need to be afraid that the cut piece of chipboard will not meet the required parameters. Subsequently, you can get rid of the remaining stock without any problems.

Cutting chipboard

If selected the right tool and the markings are correctly applied, there are no problems with cutting chipboard will not arise. The most important thing is that the movements are made very slowly. Even when using a fine-toothed saw, sharp actions can cause chips. You need to cut through the chipboard without trying to partially cut through it. It will then be impossible to break the material so that no cracks remain on it.

Aligning the chipboard sheet

After cutting, it is necessary to eliminate the reserve that was left when applying the markings. It is best to use a router for this. But you can remove excess material sandpaper. She stuffs herself on wooden block, which is easier to work with than loose sandpaper. Such processing allows you not only to get rid of excess material, but also to smoothly clean the edge.

Such actions allow in the best possible way cut chipboard. But, if the owner wants to increase his chances of receiving good result, it can make a cut on the slab using a guide bar. It is installed along the intended cut line.

The most in a simple way marking is drawing straight lines along the sides of the slab using stretched threads, a square, a ruler and (or) a measuring tape. Subject to availability large number cutting parts are difficult to select optimal scheme sheet cutting, which can reduce losses due to the remaining scraps. To outline smooth curves, you need to use patterns that allow you to reproduce numerous fragments of the same type.

Helps improve cutting quality special programs, in which product dimensions are specified, calculations are made and a diagram is displayed optimal location cutting lines. Such programs include “Cutting 2”, “Master 2” and others.

Usage example software shown in video:

When cutting material with your own hands, you need to pay attention special attention straightness of angles and maintaining straight lines. Marking large sheets should be done on the floor, working in pairs. Drawing dimensions by one person is fraught with distortion of parameters caused by the displacement of measuring instruments during work.

Methods for cutting chipboard

Basic cutting tools wood boards are:

• hand saw for wood or metal;
• electric or regular jigsaw;
• circular saw.

The cuts are more accurate when using a hand saw for metal and a jigsaw. The disadvantages of the saw include its low productivity, which is unacceptable for working with large volumes of chipboard. The use of a jigsaw does not allow obtaining straight cut lines compared to a circular saw.

Working with a jigsaw does not always prevent the formation of chips at the end of the slab. Only the use of high-quality blades can create an even cut line.

To reduce the number or even avoid chipping when chipboard processing, you can use a special technique for working with a regular circular saw. First, strict markings are made, mirrored on different sides material. Then, along these markings, recesses are sawed on each side, going deep into the slab by approximately 60-70% of its thickness (the material is sawn completely in two passes).

Since chips on the surface occur at the exit of the teeth, and not at the entrance, sawing in two passes virtually eliminates damage to the material. This method requires high precision cutting to ensure a smooth end surface. Saw blade for chipboard it should have a small toothing to reduce the area of ​​interaction with pressed wood chips.

The use of a sawing machine makes it much easier to cut in two steps. A number of parts can be made by cutting out a workpiece with obviously oversized dimensions (by 5-10 mm), after which they are trimmed on both sides according to specified parameters. The use of a sawing machine allows not only to maintain accurate dimensions, but to evenly cut the lines necessary for the manufacture of prefabricated structures.

Some sawing machines support independent slab marking. These machines are equipped with clamps and rails that facilitate precise cutting.

You can see how to saw off chipboard smoothly and without chips in the video:

Processing chipboards after cutting

Working with particle boards after cutting the workpiece includes:

• end processing carried out with special edge materials;
• painting, wallpapering or tiling;
• bending slabs of material and repairing accidental or manufacturing defects.

Processing cut edges, do-it-yourself edging process

It is necessary to improve aesthetics and prevent chipping of the material. For gluing the ends, melamine films are often used, which are fried to the surface with an iron. They are less durable than the laminated layer, but are visually attractive and protect from mechanical stress and minor moisture ingress.

The process of edging chipboard at home is not very complicated. The cut edges of the slab are cleaned with sandpaper and polished, after which the edge tape. An adhesive that is optimal for the specific type of film is applied under the tape (not required for self-adhesive tapes).

The plate is placed on its end, and plastic edge pressed with a heated iron. After removing the improvised hot press, a flat board should be placed on the film to fix the load and the hardening process.

More details about The video will tell you how to glue an edge on chipboard:

Painting and wallpapering

You can paint chipboard with your own hands in several approaches. The material must first be removed from residues. old paint, using heat or mechanical force, and treat the noticed defects with sandpaper. Apply a regular or acrylic primer to a clean surface.

After the primer layer has dried, the slab is covered with a layer of paint, which is recommended to be applied in two stages. The painting layer can be applied with a brush or spray gun. In the latter case, material consumption will be less, although regular paint will be cheaper.

To protect the chipboard from moisture, you can treat the surface with drying oil or rub it with a stearin candle. We should not forget about applying sealant at joints exposed to moisture.

A universal way to prepare chipboard for further processing is puttying. The surface is pre-coated with a primer, after which a layer of starting and finishing putty is applied. Only non-laminated chipboards are subjected to treatment, since putty holds less well on a laminated surface.

Wallpapering on chipboards is carried out after applying primer. This reduces the likelihood of rust spreading from fastening points buried in the wood.

The tiles are laid directly on a dry and clean surface. chipboard surface using thick adhesive compositions. To enhance the fixation of the tiles, a fine polymer mesh is used, which increases overall strength.

Correction of random defects (holes, dents) or technological holes is carried out with a mixture sawdust and glue. PVA or is used as an adhesive base. epoxy mixture. Repair of slabs usually does not require special skills. Chipboard parts are rarely glued together, preferring to use self-tapping screws or bolted connections.

How to bend chipboard - a practical aspect

Sometimes it is necessary to make a bent part from chipboard - the end of a table, cabinet, shelf.

To do this, you must first cut the required fragment of material to size, and then make numerous parallel cuts on it inner surface(see Fig. 1 and 2):

Required fragment Applying cuts

To give it a curved shape, the resulting part should be glued to the template with PVA glue and secured with self-tapping screws. After the time required for the glue to harden, the part can be removed and used for its intended purpose.

Before screwing self-tapping screws into chipboard, it is advisable to pre-drill the material. For this, drills are used that have a diameter 1-2 mm smaller than the self-tapping screw. Drills for chipboard are used the same as for drilling wood, and standard self-tapping screws are purchased.

Due to the lower cost of particle boards than other mounting and building materials, a small amount of defects when working with your own hands is not critical. Damaged sheets can be used to produce smaller products without incurring the costs of hiring professional equipment and specialists.

LDSP is a very common chipboard covered with a paper-resin film, which is also finely sanded. Lamination occurs at a temperature of 140-210 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 25-28 MPa. After the entire lamination procedure, the surface turns out to be beautiful, durable, resistant to thermal influences and mechanical damage, which gives the chipboard a very attractive appearance when making furniture and when finishing the interior of a room.

A large number of craftsmen prefer to make furniture themselves and for this they buy high-quality laminated chipboard from manufacturers or ordinary construction stores. A wide range of colors when laminating the surface allows you to easily choose required material. Textures also have a variety: it can be embossed to look like wood spores or shagreen, or smooth, and also imitate natural stone or wood.

But in order to create an exclusive interior yourself or unique furniture, it is not enough just to purchase laminated chipboard. The laminated coating has a very fragile structure. If not correct actions The cutting of laminated chipboard turns out to be very ragged, and deep cavities appear on the edges. In order to cut laminated chipboard without cracks and chips, you need to know a few tricks when making a cut.

Basic rules for cutting laminated chipboard

Cut laminated chipboard at home you can use a circular saw, a jigsaw, or a hand saw with fine teeth. For all work to be successful, you should:

• Secure the adhesive tape very tightly along the main cut line, which does not allow the teeth to harm the front part of the surface.
• Using a sharp knife, make a cut along the cutting line in the laminated coating. In this case, the saw will cut the inner layers of the chipboard, having only a tangential effect on the coating.
• Pilou manual type, when working, should be positioned at a very acute angle relative to the covering of the board.
• Sawing with electric tool with minimal feed.
• Cut on this part thin knife layer of surface edge at a 45 degree angle.
• Sanding the cut area should be done with a small file, sanding the cut in the direction from the edges to the center.

To subsequently protect the surface from cracks and chips, you should use overlays: C-shaped overlay edge, self-adhesive melamine tape, T-shaped edge.

Everyone knows that laminated chipboard is our chipboard, which is covered with a paper-resin film. The lamination process is special conditions: pressure 25-28 MPa, temperature 140-210 °C. The surface is durable, smooth, and beautiful. The laminated chipboard coating is very resistant to mechanical stress and thermal stress. Because of these qualities, laminated chipboard has become simply necessary for furniture production and for interior decoration.

Some craftsmen like to make furniture themselves. They acquire good laminated chipboard quality from manufacturers or in special construction stores. Since the color range of laminated chipboard is very rich, you can easily choose required material. The surface of laminated chipboard also has the most varied structure, since it can be smooth, imitate wood of different species or stone.

To make special furniture or unique interior with your own hands, it’s not enough to just buy laminated chipboard and draw it into details. The laminated chipboard coating is very thin, its structure is fragile. If you cut laminated chipboard roughly and incorrectly, the cut will turn out ugly, torn, and cavities will form on the edges. To be able to cut laminated chipboard correctly and not get chips and cracks, you need to know some little “tricks” of the job.

Rules for sawing laminated chipboards

For cutting laminated chipboard at home they use hand saw with fine teeth, circular saw or an electric jigsaw. To complete the job without any problems, you need to do the following:

1. Secure the adhesive tape tightly exactly along the cut line. The tape will prevent the saw teeth from damaging the coating film.
2. Cut through sharp knife coating and the layer underneath along the cutting line. In this case, the saw will only cut the inner layer of chipboard and touch the coating only tangentially.
3. The hand saw, when working with it, should be placed at an angle (very sharp) to the surface of the slab.
4. When cutting with a power tool, you need to use a minimum feed.
5. When the part is cut out, you need to cut the edge of the coating at an angle of 45° with a sharp knife.
6. The cut is polished using a fine file, the cut is processed towards the center from the edges.

The edge of the sawn laminated chipboard should be covered with a special overlay to prevent any chips or cracks on it in the future. To protect the cut, you can use self-adhesive melamine tape, or a C-shaped edge, or a T-shaped edge.