Based on the principle of placement on the underframe, sinks are divided into overhead and built-in. The surface of the washing panel can be located above the plane of the countertop, be flush with it, or be below the level of the desktop. In any case, the bowl under the mixer should be installed between the sections of the headset to accommodate dirty dishes and for cooking and serving dishes.

The cabinet on which the overhead sink is mounted is often separate element kitchen interior. Mortise and integrated sinks are mounted into the continuous surface of the desktop of the floor-standing modules of the sets.

Installation of an overhead washing panel

Sink connection diagram: 1 – mixer pipe; 2 – gasket; 3 – fixing nut; 4 – flexible hose; 5 – pipeline supply; 6 – overflow hole; 7 – combined drain; 8 – drain device; 9 – compression ring; 10 – compression coupling; 11 – double-turn siphon; 12 – drain pipe.

Overhead types of sinks are easier to install than others. This traditional way installation of dishwashing equipment. In the kitchen interior, it is a free-standing cabinet with a sink, complemented by a panel for storing washed kitchen items.

The panel is fixed on the cabinet using fasteners in the form of brackets or pushed onto the base into the grooves of the cabinet using special slides.

The sink kit may include an adhesive tubular seal that is inserted into a groove on the panel. The joint between the cabinet and the washing panel is coated silicone sealant to protect against moisture penetration.

Rubber seals do not adhere tightly to the joining surfaces and have a short service life. More often they are replaced with a moisture-resistant sealant; it tightly fills the gaps and retains its properties for a long time when dry.

The underframe usually does not have additional internal elements; this provides access for repairing supply pipelines, cleaning the siphon and sewer pipes. Sometimes supporting bars are attached under the overhead sink to enhance the strength of the structure.

You may be interested in: A few basic rules for installing a sink in a countertop

Before attaching the sink to the countertop, the faucet, water supply hoses and siphon are installed. The overhead sink is secured with L-shaped fasteners with an oblique slot. 4-5 such elements are installed. In marked on inner surface Self-tapping screws are screwed into the cabinets and places for fastening. They should protrude 5 mm from the walls of the underframe. It is better to screw in the screws with a screwdriver; if you use a screwdriver, the tabletop may be damaged.

During installation, the fastening grooves are placed on the screws and the sink is moved until it is firmly fixed to the overhead sink. Then the screws are tightened and the protruding sealant is removed.

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Installation of a mortise sink

To prevent water from splashing when washing dishes, choose a deep sink and install a low tap.

The sink is installed in a pre-cut hole in a solid countertop. In this case, the sink itself can be made of various materials: stainless alloy, earthenware, porcelain, etc.

To insert a washing container, you will need some tools and additional materials:

• jigsaw with a fine-toothed file;
• drill, screwdriver;
• pencil, ruler, tape measure;
• self-tapping screws, silicone sealant;
• wrenches for installing the mixer;
• sandpaper, construction knife.

The contours of the installed panel are marked with a pencil, turning it over and laying it on the countertop. The distances from the front and rear edges of the latter are at least 5 cm. Then the location of the bowl relative to the edges of the panel is measured. The outline of the hole cut for the sink appears along them.

The bowl may be various shapes, therefore it is necessary to transfer its geometric parameters to the surface of the tabletop as accurately as possible. Manufacturers of mortise sinks often include a template with the kit, according to which the shape of the hole is drawn.

The cutting line should extend outward from the sides of the bowl by about 1 cm. A hole is drilled at one of the points on the contour to insert a jigsaw blade. For a rectangular bowl shape, holes are drilled in the corners of the intended contour.

You may be interested in: Installation and connection of a washing machine and dishwasher

Glued on the outside of the outline masking tape. It will protect the surface of the tabletop from damage by the jigsaw foot when cutting. On a removable tabletop, the material is cut with a jigsaw with front side, this way the surface cladding is less damaged. In the process of cutting the opening, self-tapping screws are screwed into the cut to a small depth so that the inner part does not fall out during operation. The sector to be removed can also be secured from below with support.

The edges of the table top along the saw cut are covered with silicone sealant to protect the material from moisture penetration. The sealant is also applied under the edges of the panel along the drawn contour. A sink with a built-in faucet and siphon is inserted into the prepared opening and secured to the countertop with clamps included in the plumbing kit. All that remains is to connect the mixer to the water supply and drain the sink through a siphon to the sewer.

Reliable fastening of the kitchen sink to the countertop, cabinet or other structure is a guarantee of long-term operation of the plumbing fixture. It is possible to achieve rigid fixation of the product only if you approach the process correctly, from the point of view of using an installation technique that corresponds to the model of the sink being installed. Therefore, the fastening for the sink to the countertop, cabinet or console is determined by the model of the plumbing fixture.

Types of sinks for washing

The range of kitchen sinks is represented by a huge assortment of household appliances, differing not only in size and design, but also in the installation method and fastening. Thus, according to the installation method, there are such models of kitchen sinks as:

• Tabletop. These sinks are installed on top of countertops kitchen set, to which they are attached at the level of the siphon of the drain structure. This type of sink is used extremely rarely in kitchens. In bathrooms, these sinks are found as premium appliances. Therefore, their price is appropriate.
• Invoices. Devices of this type are installed on floor stands. The design of the sinks contains sides that serve as supporting planes. The device is placed on them, resting on the upper ends of the cabinet walls. Most often, these models are made of stainless steel, hence the low price of the product.
• Mortise. Structurally, an appliance of this type is “recessed” into the countertop of the kitchen unit, to which it is attached with reverse side planes with special fasteners. The installation process involves cutting out a part of the countertop exactly to fit the size of the sink.
• Under-table. Such sinks are installed just below the front surface of the countertop. These models are usually placed in countertops made of stone (natural or artificial). To secure them, special brackets are used, and the ends of the devices are treated with a special adhesive composition, which not only glues sinks to the countertop, but also creates a tight seal between the planes.
• Integrated. Basically, such sinks are made of synthetic stone, less often of stainless steel. The main installation condition is the minimum gap between the appliance and the countertop.

Attention! Only professional plumbers install underbench and integrated models. This is due to the fact that the installation of such sinks - complex process, which is based on an exact fit to the tabletop. Therefore, it is better not to carry out such installation yourself.

Installation technologies

The easiest installation method is to install an overhead model.

• The floor cabinet of the kitchen set is aligned in a horizontal plane using a short building level.
• If the mounting dimensions of the plumbing fixture correspond to the installation parameters of the cabinet, then the first installation and fastening is carried out using silicone sealant. To do this, the upper surfaces of the ends of the cabinet, on which the sink is installed, are treated with sealant. It is pressed harder against the ends, for which some weight is placed inside the bowl. After 12 hours the device is connected to the water supply and sewer networks and functions in the required mode.
• There is a so-called standard mount. These are special brackets made of metal or plastic. They are installed on the inner walls of the cabinet using a self-tapping screw, which is not screwed in completely at first. A bracket is put on it, pressing the upper shelf of the sink to the ends of the cabinet. By moving the bracket along the direction of the bevel angle, the sink is tightly pressed against the cabinet walls. After this, the self-tapping screw is screwed in completely. Plumbers advise that all work on screwing in fasteners should be carried out with a screwdriver, and not with a screwdriver or drill. This is due to the fact that strong pressure on thin metal washing leads to its deformation. The photo below shows this option.
• Almost the same option as the previous one, only instead of brackets for attaching the sink, wooden blocks and furniture corners. The sink is placed on bars, which are pressed from above with your hands, and the corners are installed on the block and the wall of the cabinet. The connection is made with self-tapping screws.

Installation of a mortise structure

First of all, a cutout is made in the countertop for the sink. To do this, use the template that comes with the sink. If there is none, then make it yourself. To do this, the sink is turned over and placed on a cardboard sheet. A line is drawn along its perimeter to indicate the shape of the hole. It can be round or rectangular.

Next, the same line is laid inward from the drawn line, showing the shape and dimensions of the landing area. Application distance is 1-2 centimeters. A hole in the cardboard is cut along the second line. After which the template is applied to the countertop at the exact location of the plumbing fixture, an outline is made on the surface, along which holes for the sink are cut.

The easiest way to cut is to drill many through holes around the perimeter of the marked line with a small drill with a diameter of 6-8 millimeters. A jigsaw blade is inserted into one of them, with which the material is cut around the perimeter. If the countertop is made of laminated chipboard, then there is no need to make a lot of holes, since this is a rather soft base, and a jigsaw will easily cut it.

Next, all cut planes are treated with silicone sealant, and butyl tape is laid on top of the tabletop around the perimeter of the cut hole. Both seals are designed to seal the joint and perform additional features waterproofing. Now the most important point– fastening the sink from below. For this, a special metal bracket is used, consisting of two parts: a clamp and a holder. The first one has teeth at the end, which, when pulled together, will cut into the tabletop material and prevent the fasteners from moving. The other end is installed in the side of the sink, holds it, and when tightening the screw, presses the product to the plane of the table.

Both parts of the fastener are connected to each other with a screw, often spring-loaded. By screwing or unscrewing the screw, the clamp is strengthened or loosened, respectively. In this case, the connection between the two parts is hinged, that is, the lower clamp rotates relative to the upper holder, which simplifies the installation of the fastener.

The bracket is made of metal: stainless steel, galvanized. Today manufacturers offer fastening element with plastic inclusions. It is clear that hardware stronger. As in the case of overhead sinks, all threaded fasteners are screwed in with a screwdriver.

Rules for installing stone sinks

Sinks made of stone or granite and quartz agglomerate are used today in great demand. They have heavy weight, therefore, during the installation process they have one important advantage over other models: pressure on the countertop, which ensures a minimum gap between the planes of the sink and the table. Therefore, the main thing is to accurately align the surface of the kitchen countertop in a horizontal plane. Then all cut planes of the hole for the plumbing fixture are treated with silicone sealant or any other similar material. The main task is to carry out thorough waterproofing.

After this, the sink is installed in the hole and pressed. Plumbers recommend immediately checking the horizontal position of the installation. building level. After 12 hours, the device can be used, but first it will have to be connected to communication networks. There are no fasteners, the sink will stay firmly on the countertop due to its weight and sealant.

Conclusion on the topic

The question of how to properly secure a sink to a countertop is asked quite often. Home craftsmen are looking for simple but effective solutions with which they can carry out this installation process themselves. In any case, the main requirement for an installed sink is its rigid and reliable fastening.

One of essential attributes Every kitchen has a sink. It is required to the same extent as a stove (gas or electric). But installing a sink in the kitchen with your own hands is much easier than connecting a stove, if you know the basic instructions and the typical secrets of such work.

Different sinks are needed, different sinks are important

Indeed, kitchen sinks are produced in a wide range of products, which can make your eyes wide open in a specialized plumbing store. Kitchen sinks can be divided into at least six categories:

• Wall-mounted, mortise and overhead sinks. The hanging option is now rare; it is more relevant for communal apartments and government institutions than for modern renovation. But inset and overmount sinks compete with each other in popularity; their long-term reliability and aesthetic appeal are comparable;
• Sinks made of stainless steel alloys, chrome-plated or nickel-plated, sinks made of natural granite or porcelain stoneware artificial stone, acrylic and even glass (!). However, due to practicality, 90% of all models are made of stainless steel and representative porcelain stoneware;
• Sinks are angular and standard, round, oval, square, rectangular and shaped. The more intricate the shape of the sink, the more difficult it is to give it impeccable cleanliness and maintain a sparkling shine in daily mode. After all, the sink is not used for beauty in the living room, but for mundane household needs in the kitchen;
• By design, a distinction is made between ordinary single sinks and sinks with two bowls (one or different sizes, same or different shapes, etc.). There are convenient models with water overflow from one bowl to another;
• According to the location of the mixer - on the wall or on the sink itself (the first option is rare);
• According to availability additional options– possibility of installing a water filter, connections for washing machine, automatic valves for adjusting the drain, additional taps for connecting garden hoses, etc.

Stainless steel sinks have gained overwhelming popularity due to their reasonable price, durable functionality, compatibility with the most various repairs kitchen area and ease of sanitization.

You can check the quality of the steel alloy of the sink right in the store - an ordinary flat magnet will stick to it very firmly, but with bad steel the magnet will “fly off” at the slightest vibration.

Granite and steel sinks are available in overhead and inset versions; installing a sink in the kitchen with your own hands is possible for both. However, first we need to take care of the furniture base of our installation efforts.

How to assemble a kitchen sink - install a cabinet

Recessed and surface-mounted sinks are installed in cabinets and cabinets, with opening (less often sliding) doors in the front and an empty opening in the back. The assembly of these elements of the kitchen set has its own characteristic features. The fact is that they do not have internal bulkheads; they can interfere with the connection of the sewerage system and water pipes. This means that there will be no additional stiffeners inside the cabinet. If a countertop sink is installed, even the countertop is missing; it is replaced by a steel sink panel.

The assembly of the sink cabinet should be much more reliable and durable than other parts of the kitchen set. It needs to be installed on special supports, because... Even with the best sealing, water leaks are possible. It wouldn’t hurt to treat the material itself with water-repellent compounds. Inside the bedside table, it is necessary to provide fastenings for tightening jumpers - they are installed after connecting the sink to the communications for the strength of the entire structure. The lintels themselves can be made from flat and thick planks, which will serve as additional mini-shelves inside the cabinet.

How to install an overhead sink on a cabinet - brief instructions

The overhead option for installing a kitchen sink can be ordinary or “slide-in”. In the latter case, the sink itself is equipped with curved slides on the side and front sides, and special grooves are provided on the bedside table. After you have successfully assembled a sink in the kitchen, all that remains is to slide the sink into these grooves, move the structure to the wall - and you can connect the communications.

If you use a direct overhead mounting option, you will have to seal all joints. High-quality waterproof sealant combines the properties of glue and a protective waterproof composition. The upper perimeter of the open cabinet is generously coated with this composition; all that remains is to precisely place the sink itself on top.

A large and heavy overhead sink cannot be installed using sealing adhesive alone!

Otherwise, one day it will fall inside the cabinet along with the dishes, destroying the sewer and breaking off the pressure water hoses. Negative impressions from such an accident will be available to both you and your neighbors below. As well as eliminating the plumbing collapse and renovating two rooms from the personal budget. How to install an overhead sink on a cabinet without the risk of such an incident? Using auxiliary bars or internal sheathing.

Simple overhead sinks are usually equipped with additional fasteners. Massive bars, precisely screwed to the wrong side of the cabinet, are suitable as such. It is necessary to accurately mark the bottom edge of the pre-installed (without glue!) sink and build the internal sheathing along this line. Then the sink will rest on auxiliary bars, and not on the thin end of the bedside table. The operation is similar to hidden installation of sheathing, only in final stage complemented by adhesive sealing of the joint between metal and wood.

Installing a sink in the kitchen - do-it-yourself mortise installation

Before attaching the metal sink to the cabinet mortise method, you need to make sure that the cabinet is strong and that the entire structure can be accurately installed in the installation opening. Experiment with moving the cabinet in advance - after fixing the sink you will only have to do this once. After connecting the sewerage and water supply, the cabinet with the sink should stand like a glove, without distortions or vibrations.

How to install a sink in the kitchen with your own hands - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Marking

Most mortise sinks are sold with a ready-made template; it acts as a packaging container. It is enough to cut out such a template from cardboard and attach it to the countertop at the location of the sink - and the outline seat ready.

If there is no template, you will have to make it yourself. To do this, it is better to use thick cardboard (for example, from a TV or monitor). After measuring the inside of the sink, transfer this measurement to the cardboard surface and cut off a few centimeters more. It is better to cut a piece of cardboard several times than to look for a new piece.

Step 2: Location

The proverb about the need to measure seven times before the first cut is very relevant for our work. Move ready-made template you can move across the tabletop easily and freely - as long as you don’t start sawing right through it. So take into account how the tap will open, where the filter will be located, how it will be positioned kitchen utensils etc.

Circle cardboard template follows as smoothly and accurately as possible. To do this, attach it to the tabletop with ordinary tape and carry out one thin line pencil. After which the “cardboard helper” peels off and goes into waste paper; we will no longer need it. We cover the perimeter of the future hole from the outside with masking tape for 8-12 cm in order to prevent it from being damaged by mechanical tools.

Step 3: Drill and saw

Yes, yes, the first mechanical tool will be a drill, not a saw. A drill with a diameter of 2 mm is selected and several closely spaced holes are drilled in the place where it is convenient to start cutting out the contour. The holes are connected into a single groove using a chisel.

It is convenient to saw the tabletop wood jigsaw. Just don’t forget to stock up on extra blades - thick tabletops are difficult to saw, and the blade is likely to break if it deviates slightly from the vertical. Take your time and move the jigsaw confidently - it is more difficult to correct a crooked cut than to immediately cut a hole along a plumb line, with a strictly perpendicular cut.

Step 4: Complete the installation

On the end of fresh mounting hole Apply sealant and insert the sink tightly. We hold the sink under load for 10 to 60 seconds (depending on the type of sealing compound). Carefully remove excess glue from the outer and inside sinks and wait several hours until the sealant completely hardens. We connect hoses, pipes, sewerage, install a faucet and use the new sink for your pleasure.

Friends, good afternoon. If you are faced with the task of installing a kitchen sink, but you don’t know how to do it, then this post is for you.

WHAT TO PAY ATTENTION TO WHEN CHOOSING A DROP-IN SINK

Kitchen sinks vary in shape, material, type and price. Most often, a mortise metal sink is purchased for a kitchen set.

If your choice falls on just such a sink, then pay attention to the following points:

• It would be better if the size of the sink is smaller size the cabinet itself (in fact, it is possible to embed a sink into a smaller cabinet, but this is more troublesome);
• It is better if the thickness of the metal of the sink is at least 0.8 mm;
• A soundproofing pad should be glued to the bottom, on its outer side, or the entire outside of the sink should be covered with a special soundproofing compound. This is done so that the sound of falling water is more muffled;
• A deep sink is always more convenient;
• Pay attention to the complete set of the sink;
• The sink should not be crooked or propeller-shaped;
• Pay attention to the sink mounting. The fastening metal should not be soft;
• The sinks come with left and right wings;
• Chinese analogues of sinks are 2 times cheaper or more than European ones.

HOW TO CORRECTLY MARK A DRINK UNDER THE WASH

On the Internet, this point is written minimalistically and smeared, something like this: “Mark correctly and cut out with a jigsaw.” Let's look at how to properly mark the drinks under the sink.

For example, you bought a round sink and you need to cut it into the cabinet at 800 mm. If a template is included with the sink, then everything is simple, but if it is not there, then we do the following.

STAGE 1. Looking for a location

The first task is to decide where it is best to place the sink. Let me explain - in our example, the sink is round, 51 (or 49) cm in diameter, and the cabinet itself is 80 cm, therefore, it can be moved to the left or right, or embedded in the center.

When marking the sink, pay special attention to corner version(option 90 gr.) kitchens, since the convenience of approaching the sink depends on your choice.

STAGE 2. How much to retreat from the wall?

Having decided on the location, place the sink on the countertop with the bottom facing up. Now you need to decide how much you need to retreat from the wall. This point is especially important if your sink is 51 cm deep. If such a sink is placed exactly in the middle of the countertop, then there is a high probability that your saw will pass along the front plank of the cabinet (this depends on the design of the cabinet itself). The easiest way is to place a kitchen plinth against the wall and move 1-2 cm away from it. This place will be the outer edge of the sink.

If the cut line still goes along the body of the cabinet, then you need to either pull off the bar of the cabinet, or remove the tabletop from the body, cut it out and put it back in place.

Take a pencil and outline the outer contour of the sink.

STEP 3. Draw a cutting line

Now we need to decide on the line of the cut itself.

To do this, you need to measure the distance from the outer edge of the sink to the fasteners (fastening ears). Usually this size is 1-3 cm, but it may vary for different sinks.

We already have a drawn line of the outer contour of the sink. Now we measure the just measured distance from it into the future sink and draw the internal contour. This is the cutting line.

Stage 4. Ewing

Using a drill, from inside the contour, next to the cut line, we make a through hole. We do it so that the jigsaw blade can pass through.

Use a jigsaw to cut along the contour of the cut. When cutting, do not rush and do not press too hard with a jigsaw.

It is better to saw with a blade " Clean cut" If the sink is rectangular, then to prevent chipping, you can use masking tape. When choosing a file, consider the cutting height.

Stage 5. Preparing the cut

After cutting, you need to process the edges of the cut.

We level the cut with coarse sandpaper and try on the sink with fasteners.

If everything is fine, then we clean the saw cut from dust and coat it with silicone.

Silicone will subsequently prevent the tabletop from absorbing moisture and swelling.

Stage 6. Attaching the sink

Usually the sink is attached to a countertop with already installed mixer, since doing this under the sink is extremely inconvenient.

The new sink is equipped with a sealing tape, which we glue along the edge of the sink into a special groove. For greater reliability, you can apply silicone along the edge.

We insert the fasteners into the ears of the sink, with the hooks to the countertop, bend them inward and insert the sink into the cut hole.

We move the structure a little so that the sink sits correctly and tightly. We hook the sink to the countertop with fasteners as shown in the figure and use a screwdriver to pull the sink to the countertop. Don't over tighten the washer.

You should not use a screwdriver to tighten the sink, as it is very easy to unscrew the fastening thread.

You can feel the tightening force with your hand, but some fasteners are very weak in tightening.

• If you have more drink under the sink than you need (but not more than the sink itself), then it is easier to secure it with fastenings if you attach plywood inserts from the inside, at the fastening points. We align some edges of the inserts to the sink at the required distance, and screw the others to the countertop.
• Sometimes sink fasteners work well to attach the structure to a thick countertop, but do not attract it to a thin one. Using the same inserts, you can artificially increase the tabletop at the fastening points.
• If all the fastening lugs on your sink have broken off, you can simply glue it with silicone, placing a weight on it while gluing.
• If you have a sink, but do not have fastenings, then you can buy a kit for fastening the sink in the store. Usually it consists of the fasteners themselves and the sealing tape.
• It happens that you pull the sink, and the fastenings either move off the edges of the cut or become unbent. In this case, you can screw the fastener to the tabletop with a self-tapping screw and then the fastener will not move out.

That's all. If you have any questions, write.

All modern sinks are divided into built-in and overhead sinks based on the type of placement on the washing base. In this case, the surface of the sink itself can be below the level of the desktop, above the plane of the countertop, or be flush with it. But be that as it may, the bowl under the mixer should be mounted between those parts of the kitchen set that are intended for serving dishes, cooking and placing dirty dishes. The cabinet to which the sink is attached is usually a separate element kitchen interior. Integrated and built-in sinks are installed into the continuous work surface of floor-standing modules. In this article we will talk about how the sink should be attached to the countertop from below, above or flush, and how to properly install such structures.

Fastenings for modern sinks

The attachment for the sink to the countertop in the case of a built-in model should be as reliable as possible so that the sink bowl is well fixed during installation. This type of mounting hardware greatly simplifies the installation and subsequent disassembly of the sink. We will consider it further.

Features of fasteners and main purpose

Overhead and mortise sinks have almost replaced other models of kitchen sinks due to their practicality, beauty and ease of use. This type of sanitary ware is ideal for installation in non-standard modern countertops, which require maximum integration of all household appliances into the overall ensemble of the interior. Its main feature is that there should be no traces of fasteners, cracks or gaps in the visible areas and on the surface. So, in order to implement this requirement, you will need reliable hidden fasteners that can simultaneously and unnoticeably hold the sink bowl in the countertop.

Fastening device:

• The fastener consists of two main elements and a clamping screw.
• The lower part is attached to special holes or grooves in the sink apron.
• The upper part is cut into the tabletop with special teeth.
• All elements are connected to each other using a screw.
• All parts have a hinged connection, top part You can bend it relative to the bottom at your discretion. It is thanks to this feature that you can first bend the teeth inward, then insert the shell into the hole, and only after that bend them again and firmly rest them on the board.

Important! Fasteners may consist entirely of metal parts or have plastic inclusions. All-metal clamps are considered the most reliable.

Even if you use an all-metal case, it is recommended to tighten all screws only by hand, because the threads on the washer are too fragile and can be easily torn off with a screwdriver.

Is it possible to install without a clamp?

It happens that fasteners for a kitchen sink are lost during transportation or are simply not the right size for a particular countertop because it is too thick. In such situations, it is difficult to find a way out, but it is still possible.

There are several options to solve this problem:

1. Attach the sink using sealant or glue.
2. Make your own fastening from parts for installing gypsum boards.

Glue mount

Considering the fact that the sinks are placed on top of the hole and rest on the countertop, we can say with confidence that the entire load falls on the bowl, and under the resulting forces it is pressed even harder. But sometimes a gap appears between the board and the sides. So, if you install the sink on the glue and press it with some kind of weight while it hardens, the gap will be minimal, and the fixation, in turn, will be reliable.

Important! The biggest problem with glue is the inability to easily and quickly dismantle the sink in case of repair or replacement of the faucet.

Fastening for gypsum boards

You can use a remote mount and cut it into several pieces. The antennae are simply inserted into the mount on the sink, self-tapping screws are inserted through one of the holes at an angle and pulled to the countertop. Due to this, an attractive force is created, the fastening is durable and reliable.

Important! Screws can only be screwed into tabletops made of wood. Polymer, composite and stone products are completely unsuitable for this method; only the use of dowels is appropriate here.

Installation of an overhead sink

Overhead types of sinks can be called the simplest in terms of installation. This is a traditional option for installing equipment intended for washing dishes. In the interior, such products are free-standing bedside tables, complemented by a panel for folding already clean kitchen utensils.

Installation proceeds as follows:

• Before attaching the sink, a mixer, siphon and water supply hoses are installed. The overhead structure is fixed with fasteners with an oblique slot. Then self-tapping screws are screwed into the mounting points, previously marked on the inner surface of the cabinet. This should be done using a screwdriver, and the screws should protrude 5 mm from the walls of the underframe.
• The fastening grooves are mounted on self-tapping screws; the sink must be moved until it is firmly fixed. Using fastening brackets, the panel is fixed on the cabinet or pushed into grooves on the base using special slides. Often the kit comes with a tubular adhesive seal that is inserted into a groove on the panel.

Important! The hole between the sink and the cabinet is coated with sealant to prevent moisture penetration.

• Supporting bars are installed under the sink to increase the strength of the structure. The underframe itself remains open for cleaning the siphon, sewerage and repairing pipeline connections.
• At the last stage, it is necessary to tighten all the screws and remove the sealant protruding at the joints.

Installation of an undermount sink

The sink itself can be made of porcelain, stainless steel or earthenware. Installing an undermount sink begins with cutting holes in the countertop.

To install such a container, prepare the following materials and tools:

• Electric jigsaw with fine-toothed saw.
• Screwdriver, drill.
• Ruler, pencil, tape measure.
• Silicone sealant, self-tapping screws.
• Wrenches.
• Construction knife, sandpaper.

Installation diagram of the mortise structure:

• Mark the contours of the mounted panel with a pencil; to do this, turn it over and lay it on the countertop. The margins from the edges must be at least 5 cm.
• Measure the location of the bowl relative to each edge of the panel. You should have an outline of the hole that you will cut for the sink.

Important! It is necessary to transfer the contours of the sink to the surface of the countertop as accurately as possible. The line along which you will make the cut should move outward from the sides by 1 cm.

• Drill a hole at one of the points on the outline to insert the jigsaw blade into. If the bowl has rectangular shape, then holes are drilled in the corners of the resulting contour.
• Apply masking tape to the outside to protect the surface from damage when sawing. When cutting out the required opening, screw in the screws to a shallow depth so that the inside does not fall out during operation.
• Cover the ends of the tabletop with sealant strictly along the cut to protect the material from moisture penetration. It must be applied along the edges of the panel along the drawn contour.
• Insert a sink with a built-in siphon and mixer into the finished opening, and attach it to the countertop with clamps.
• Connect the faucet to the water supply, draining to the sewer through a siphon.

Installation of an integrated sink

Now we will look at how to attach a sink to the countertop flush with it to make its use comfortable, maximize aesthetic perception the entire structure.

Important! Installation of mortise sinks is not required high-quality processing cuts, because they are not visible under the panel. In the case of integrated bowls, it is recommended to do this carefully to get an impeccable result. Only compliance with this condition will ensure maximum tightness of all connections and an unsurpassed decorative appearance.