A backpack is the most convenient and practical thing. It's good to have a bag in your wardrobe in which you can carry sportswear to the gym, food, or just school supplies. To do this, you don’t have to spend a lot of money on buying a backpack, because you can sew it yourself.

To learn how to sew a backpack with your own hands, study this article.

Backpack Materials

If you decide to sew a backpack yourself, you should prepare the following materials:

• fabric (you can buy/use an old unnecessary thing);
• scissors, centimeter;
• needle and thread;
• buttons or lock.

The remaining tools are selected depending on the complexity of the selected product model.

How to sew a backpack correctly?

First you need to cut out two identical pieces of fabric - this is the basis of the product. If desired, an additional lining is sewn into the inside of the backpack.

When sewing two pieces together, you need to leave slits on the sides, into which the straps will then be inserted.

The color of the lining should match color scheme of the entire product. Laces or straps are used as ties. Depends on preference.

To thread the cord, fold the top of the backpack and sew. If the cord is thin, use a pin to help guide the cord through the hole. All that remains is to sew on the straps and the product is ready.

Pattern for a backpack

If you are taking on sewing for the first time, it is better to use a pattern. It will help you sew the desired product correctly.

To create backpack patterns with your own hands, purchase special graph paper. Place all the parts of the backpack on it, leaving space for the seams.

Place the cut out parts on the fabric and trace the outlines. Secure with bobby pins so that the paper does not move and cut out. And then it’s all a matter of needle and thread.

Models

Modern fashion offers a wide selection of backpack models. They differ in shape, size and material.

The shape can be different: round, rectangular, etc. If you sew a backpack yourself, it is better to start with simple models.

Good materials include denim, suede and leather.

Depending on what purpose you are sewing a backpack, its size is selected.

Denim backpack

If you have old jeans lying around at home that you don't wear, you can turn them into a fashionable backpack. It has long become popular to sew a backpack from jeans with your own hands. It is not only economical, but also convenient and beautiful.

To do this you will need:

• old jeans;
• cord, buttons;
• needles and threads;
• metal rings;
• sewing machine.

For this option you don’t even need a pattern. Just cut the jeans correctly and take the necessary pieces of fabric. There is an alternative when the backpack is made straight from whole pants. It looks very cool and unusual.

Children's backpacks

Children love to wear bright and unusual things that make them stand out from other children. The backpack is an irreplaceable thing for a child at school, outdoors, etc. It is comfortable to wear and very roomy. It is advisable to sew it from durable material that will last a long time.

If you don’t know how best to sew a product, then look at photos of children’s backpacks made by yourself, and together with your child, choose the model you like and bring the idea to life.

An important point is the sewing of handles. They should be wide and not have hard edges so as not to rub the baby's skin.

Decorating: the best ideas

Jeans on their own beautiful material, which does not require additional decor. But if you want to create a bright and unique thing, there are simply a sea of ​​decorating methods.

The most popular ideas for decorating backpacks (not only denim ones):

• make scuffs and holes yourself (hooligan style);
• create an applique of rhinestones or small mirrors;
• metal rivets;
• embroidery, bright buttons.

It is also fashionable to decorate a girl’s backpack with drawings of cats and flowers. This is not the entire list of ideas circulating on the Internet.

Summing up

You don't have to spend a lot of money on standard backpacks. After all, creating a unique and inimitable thing is easy. In terms of quality, self-sewn backpacks are not inferior to purchased ones. So feel free to pick up a needle and thread and get creative.

Photos of DIY backpacks

It is intended for older children going on multi-day hiking trips.

Several designs of easel backpacks have been developed. We are talking about one of them today.

The design of the proposed easel backpack is relatively simple, and its manufacture requires basic metalworking skills and the ability to sew on a sewing machine.

When placing equipment in a backpack, you can place the load more rationally, since thanks to the machine, the contents of the backpack do not touch your back, and therefore it is not necessary to put soft things under your back. Distributing the load along the back in the form of a flat rectangle creates the least load on the back and abdominal muscles.

The general view of the easel backpack is shown in Figure 1. The backpack is assembled from a machine (1), a fabric bag (2), a U-shaped bracket (3) stretched on the frame, supporting the upper rear edge of the fabric bag, two shoulder straps (4) and two transverse straps (5) with which the backpack rests on the back.

The design of the backpack frame is clearly visible in Figure 2. It consists of two longitudinal and five transverse pipes, as well as two duralumin rods parallel to the longitudinal pipes. Curved structural elements (upper and lower cross tubes) give the frame the necessary rigidity when moving in the plane of the frame. The three lower transverse pipes have a slight (40-T-45 mm) deflection in the direction perpendicular to the plane of the frame (Fig. 2, right), due to which the tourist’s back does not touch the frame pipes.

The most suitable for the manufacture of the frame are thin-walled duralumin pipes D16-T and D1-6 0 18-22 mm for longitudinal pipes and 0 14-^-16 mm for transverse ones. Before flexible pipe It is necessary to fill it tightly with sand and plug it with wooden plugs. Heat the bending areas red-hot and, after bending, immediately cool them in a bucket to preserve the strength of the material.

The joints of longitudinal pipes with curved transverse pipes are shown in Figures 4a and 4b. Duralumin wire 03+4 mm can be used as rivets.

Figure 4c shows the method of attaching the bag to the backpack frame. The eyelet 1, riveted to the fold of material formed by the front 2 and side 3 walls of the bag, is put on a pin protruding from the longitudinal tube of the frame. Then, through the hole at the end of this pin, a wire pin 4 is passed from top to bottom, which does not

allows eyelet 1 to fall down and holds the bag on the frame.

The pins to which the top and bottom eyelets of the bag are attached are aluminum rivets 0 6 mm, at the ends of which a hole with a diameter equal to the diameter of wire pin 4 is drilled perpendicular to the axis. The length of the rivet pins is selected depending on the thickness of the eyelets and the diameter of the longitudinal pipes of the frame. 4 pins can be used steel wire 0 3 mm and 500 mm long with an end bent on one side at a right angle.

The fastening of the middle eyelets of the bag to the frame and the method of connecting the transverse pipes of the frame with the longitudinal ones are shown in Figure 4d.

Inside the transverse pipe 5 there is a plug machined from duralumin, which is attached to the pipe 5 with a fastening pin 3. The transverse pipe 5 is inserted into a hole drilled in the longitudinal pipe 4. The end of the plug of the transverse pipe 5 forms a pin onto which a grommet 1 is placed, riveted to bag material 2. Through the hole drilled at the end of the plug pin, a wire pin 6 is threaded, holding the grommet to the frame.

Figure 3 is given general view cloth bag.

The top front edge of the bag is attached to the frame with two sewn canvas loops. A U-shaped wire bracket is threaded through the rear upper edge, supporting it in the position shown in Figure 1. The lower bent ends of the bracket are inserted into the corresponding holes in the backpack frame. The bracket, like the longitudinal rods of the frame, is made of 0 6 mm duralumin wire.

The pattern of the bag (given without seam allowance in Fig. 5) is designed for the width of the tarpaulin - 85: 90 cm.

The seams connecting the anterior and side walls backpack, form a fold to which the eyelets are riveted.

The design of a homemade grommet is shown in Figure 6. It consists of two brass washers 1 outer 0 14-15 mm and copper or brass tube 2. Material 3 is laid between washers 1 and tube 2 is flared on both sides (Fig. 6, 7).

It is best to sew a bag and cross straps (8-10 cm wide, folding the material in half or three times) from a thin, durable tarpaulin

Any ready-made backpack you have can also be used in this design. large sizes. You just need to sew a strip of tarpaulin to it with eyelets for attaching it to the frame and sew on a new (large) flap.

Each young tourist can carry out a detailed study and adjustment of the design of the backpack to his height independently, changing the length of the shoulder straps and moving the transverse straps up and down the frame.

A. LEVANSV Fig. B. LISENKOVA

Comfort in a backpack

(End. See page 11 for beginning.)

Flashlight dimensions: height - 68 mm, diameter - 25 mm, weight with battery - 38 g, without battery - 18 g.

CHAIR AND TELEVISION

The trolley chair of Moscow tourist V. Stroganov has been tested on hikes for four seasons and has proven itself well.

This cart can hardly be called a cart. It looks more like a bag on wheels. Nevertheless, it is indispensable for transporting a kayak. To make it, you need to have a folding fishing chair, two wheels (preferably inflatable ones from children's bike), a piece of steel tube for the axle on which the wheels are attached with cotter pins, and two couplings, which are two flattened pieces of duralumin tube with holes.

To transport the packed kayak, you insert U-shaped tubes from the fishing chair into through canvas pockets sewn onto the kayak cover. Place couplings with an axle and

wheels. Secure the couplings to the tubes with cotter pins and transport the kayak.

When transferring from one body of water to another or when crossing rapids, the cart is tied under the bottom of the kayak, and it can be easily transported with things without completely unloading it. On such a cart you can transport two three-seater Salyut kayaks and a Salyut-2 motor, securing it to the axis. To reduce the overturning moment, it is necessary to slightly modify the design by increasing the base of the trolley.

BACKPACK WITH SEMI-RID FRAME

When going on a trip, a tourist will first take care of his backpack. A comfortable, well-packed backpack will save you from many troubles along the way. Now our industry produces several types of backpacks: hunting, children's, expedition, etc.

What should a tourist do when going on a hike for the first time?

A tourist from the city of Rubtsovsk, V. Nuzhny, proposes to modernize an ordinary hunting backpack: make a semi

rigid frame and canopy cape (cover) For sleeping bag.

SEMI-RID FRAME - a 0 22 mm duralumin tube sewn into the upper part of the back wall of the backpack allows the backpack to maintain a flat shape. By making slits in the backpack, you can attach straps to the frame, which bear the main load and often come off in a regular backpack.

CAP LOGO (COVER) makes it possible to change the volume of the backpack by attaching the sleeping bag from the outside. Upper part The canopy-cape is fastened with buttons, the lower one is secured with straps that are sewn to the backpack. The canopy-cape must be sewn from dense, preferably waterproof material.

To change the volume of the backpack, there are also Ribbons that are sewn inside the backpack: three on the left and three on the right. Zip ties divide the internal cavity of the backpack into three parts - this allows you to properly distribute things and products.

It is most convenient to place the heaviest objects in the side sections of the ryunzan, obtained from the screed.

On weekend trips, when there are few things and provisions and additional capacity is not needed, this backpack can be compared to a regular hunting one.

A tourist setting off on a journey on foot usually becomes perplexed by the question of how to adapt things and provisions, of which there is so much and which are so necessary on the way, to carry on his back. Backpack ? But a backpack costs 8-12 rubles and you can only get it in large cities, which, of course, is not accessible to everyone.

In No. 10 of the "World Tourist" for 1928 there is a description of the "ponyaga" used by the Tungus and Russian hunters of the Angara region. But making a ponya is quite difficult (steaming and bending wood) and requires a fair amount of time, which is always so short for a tourist preparing to go on a hike. Therefore, I want to bring to the attention of tourists the so-called “flyers”, which we have been successfully using for several years on short and long-distance excursions in the Ussuri taiga.

Flyers, recommended us traveler-explorer V.K. Arsenyev and used by the natives of the Far East, have two options.

The first option makes it possible to quickly strengthen the bale on the flyer, which significantly saves time when stopping at a bivouac and when leaving it.

To make flyers, two branches are cut out of the forest, looking like symmetrical forks, as even as possible. The type of wood doesn't matter. Excess knots and growths are cut off. Dimensions of the fork, given in the figure, intended for a person 170 cm tall; with different growth they must be changed accordingly.

Then they find a piece of a branch with a knot extending at an angle close to 90°.

This piece of branch is attached by means of wire or twine to one of the forks, previously slightly cut to prevent slipping. Subsequently, when the flyers are ready, a strap is put on this transverse branch.

The strap is an ordinary towel made of the thickest, widest and most durable canvas possible. You can use the same towel on the go when washing your face. A loop of strong twine is tied to each end of the towel so that these loops can be moved along the towel to adjust the length of the strap, but if you pull on them, they should not slip.

Now the second fork is taken and its thin ends are tied to ropes, which have a length equal to the thickness of the bale, that is, approximately 20-30 cm, and in turn are tied to the thin ends of the main flyer.

You can start packing your things. A blanket, a strong sheet, a tent flap or an awning can be used for this. No special bags are required - they will be dead weight. The blanket is spread out, the luggage is compactly laid out on it and carefully wrapped in the spread cloth so that a dense and long bundle is obtained with the center of gravity in the middle.

Then the main flyer is placed on the ground with the crossbar facing up. On the crossbar, hooking on perpendicular knot, put on a strap. Now, having placed the bale on the main flyer, it is clamped auxiliary with a flyer and tightly tighten the free (thick) ends of the flyers together with a strong rope.

The result is a knapsack ready to be carried. Having put the knapsack on your back, adjust the length of the straps by moving the rope loops at the ends of the towel. Full adjustment is achieved after one or two days of travel.

For example, the crossbar may be tied too high in relation to the flyer, and then the knapsack pulls on the shoulders too much. Or vice versa, if the crossbar is tied too low, then the load tends to fall over the head.

The second option is somewhat simpler, but requires more time each time to tie the knapsack. It differs from the first in that they are limited to only one main flyer, and instead of an additional one, a rope is used.

A rope 3-4 mm thick is tied to both thin ends of the main flyer. and 45-50 cm long, and to the middle of this rope another similar one is tied, but 2-3 m long. With these ropes the bale is tightly tied to the main flyer. That's all. Some of the readers may be concerned that the flyers will put a lot of pressure on their backs, but if the branches chosen are fairly even and smooth, then they will not be felt at all.

The advantages of flyers over a backpack are as follows:

1. The “dead weight” of flyers is less than that of a backpack (especially when the wood dries out).

2. The volume of cargo is not as limited as with a backpack.

3. Thanks to the flyers, the load does not fit tightly to the back with its entire surface, which makes the back sweat less.

4. Due to the high position of the center of gravity and the elongated shape, it is evenly distributed along the back and the straps are less likely to pull and cut on the shoulders (unless they are thick and wide enough).

5. A knapsack with flyers lies on the back more stable than a backpack and, after some skill in it adaptation, with a heavy knapsack you can jump over obstacles.

6. The cost of the flyer is zero!

7. In the event of a breakdown, the flyer can be easily restored by making it even along the way.

In conclusion, it is recommended that tourists acquire a piece of good oilcloth measuring approximately 80X100 cm, sewing ribbons to two adjacent corners. In case of rain, you can close your knapsack with this oilcloth or close it yourself with it by tying the ribbons at the neck. In bivouacs, oilcloth is placed under the bed, which eliminates the penetration of moisture from damp earth or grass.

And, finally, every tourist should purchase a skin for sleeping. The skin can be any: sheepskin, bear, goat, seal, deer. Its size is 60 X 90 cm. and more. This skin is very light, takes up little space, but protects against colds and provides some comfort.

Practical notes B. Roberg. (magazine "World Tourist", 1930, No. 4, from the personal library of Ryazansky N.M.)

In Soviet times, almost every tourist sewed a hiking backpack with his own hands, because the shops were filled with soft Abalakov or easel “Ermaks”; we saw new models only in photographs in the magazine “Tourist”. Although, of course, sewing tourist backpacks was not an easy task, because everything was in short supply: from fabric to accessories.

But if you have the desire and free leisure, and have suitable fabric and accessories hidden in the bins, then my step by step instructions on how to sew a 90-liter hiking backpack (frame) will help you make a truly useful product.

Useful articles:

DIY hiking backpack: materials and accessories

In order to sew a tourist backpack with your own hands you will need:

Thick nylon such as avisent or cordura - 3 sq. m or cut 1.5*2 m
Thin nylon like parachute silk or bologna - 1 sq. m or cut 1.5*0.70 m
Izolon (tourist foam mat) - 1 sq. m, thickness 1 cm
Narrow sling, 25 mm – 7 m
Wide sling 45 mm – 2 m
Tightening buckle – 14 pcs.
Snap buckle – 2 pcs.
Snap buckle, wide for a belt – 1 pc.
Zipper – 20 cm, 1-3 pcs. depending on the number of pockets
Zipper – 30 cm, 1 pc.
Tape for strengthening seams – 2 m, width 1-1.5 cm
Rope for tube – 1.30 m, diameter 3 mm
Aluminum tube – 2 pcs., length 70 cm, diameter 4 mm
or plate – 2 pcs., length 70 cm, width 2 cm

The dimensions on the hiking backpack pattern are indicated in centimeters, excluding seam allowances. If you want to sew not a 90 liter backpack, but a 75 liter backpack, then reduce all dimensions of the “body” of the backpack by 10 cm, the height of the back of the backpack by 10 cm, and the circumference of the tube by 20 cm.

How to sew a backpack: cutting out the main elements

Sewing a tourist backpack begins with cutting out its main elements. After cutting, do not forget to melt the edges of the fabric with a lighter so that they do not fray. It is better to stitch the seams with nylon or lavsan threads, using a zigzag. If the machine does not sew with a zigzag, make two parallel lines.

Rice. 1. The “body” of the backpack is 75*80-85 with designated places for pockets if you need them (I recommend only one - the central one). At the bottom in the corners you can immediately sew slings, 40 cm long and 25 mm wide, reinforcing them with fabric scarves.

Rice. a, b. Pattern of pockets, you need to sew a zipper into them (we leave the place of sewing it at your discretion, we advise you to decide on this in advance before you start sewing a tourist backpack with your own hands).

Rice. 2. The back of the backpack is 75*30 with a bottom 26*33 made of thick nylon. The bottom can be sewn separately, but it is better to cut them in one piece, which reduces the number of seams.

Rice. 3. Shoulder straps: two of thick nylon, two of thin. You need to cut two blanks from isolon (foam) of the same shape. The second strap needs to be cut out in a mirror image.

Sew tight and fine detail, stitching them to each other along the contour. Turn it inside out and insert a strip of isolon inside. Sew a 25 mm wide sling on top of the thick side of the strap, sewing it crosswise in 3-4 places. The sling should end where the strap ends and end with a tightening buckle.

Rice. 4. Valve 32*26. Cut and sew, sewing on thin fabric (Fig. c), as if making a box. Sew a 30 cm zipper, either along the seam or in the center of the wide wall, making a slit. Sew 4 tightening buckles at the corners.

Sewing a hiking backpack: making the back

Now let's get down to the most difficult thing in such a matter as sewing a hiking backpack - making the back.

Rice. 5. Take the previously cut back of the backpack (Fig. 2). Sew 2 strips 2.5-4 cm wide to it (tunnels for the future frame - tubes or plates).

A 25 mm wide sling is suitable for the tubes, and a strip of thick nylon for the plates. Sew 6 tightening buckles as indicated on Rice. 5, 4 slings of 25 mm - 2 each at the top and bottom. In the center of the back, sew a loop-handle from a 25 mm sling at a distance of 25 cm from the top edge.

Rice. 6. Sew the finished shoulder straps over the handle loop. If your height is 170-180 cm - at a distance of 50 cm from the bottom edge. If higher - 55 cm. If lower - 45 cm. If you are not trying for yourself, then check this parameter before sewing a backpack.

Rice. 8. Cut out the part from isolon and soft nylon. Stitch them together.

Rice. 7. Sew the part from Fig. 8 on the back of the backpack over the straps. Bottom part Sew the parts (trapeze) in two lines across the back, so that a belt can be inserted between them.

Rice. 9. The belt is made in the same way as shoulder straps (Fig. 3): stitched together thick fabric, isolon, thin fabric. Sew a wide sling on top (you can use a car seat belt), and sew a wide snap buckle on one side. Sew 2 additional slings, 25 mm wide and 40 cm long, to the edges of the belt (they will attach the belt to the “body” of the backpack), and sew tightening buckles where they “join” the backpack.

Rice. 10. Take the "body" of the backpack (Fig.1) and sew 25 mm wide slings onto it as shown in the figure.

Details Rice. 10 And Rice. 7 Sew together inside out - pockets and straps inward, and seams outward.

Reinforce the main seams by sewing tape to them.

Rice. 11. Cut out a tube in the form of a pipe from soft fabric 30*110. Fold the fabric on its wide side to form a drawstring and stitch it. The width of the drawstring is 1-2 cm, depending on the thickness of the rope for tightening the tube that you are going to thread into it.

Sew the tube to the top of the backpack. Turn the backpack inside out. Insert into pre-sewn stripes (Fig.5) aluminum plates or tubes, cut to size before sewing the backpack. Fasten the flap, insert the belt and tuck the second part of the fastening buckle into one of its lines. Fasten the belt with thin straps to the backpack.

Inspect the backpack, if you think something is missing, add it. Ready! You managed to successfully sew a hiking backpack with your own hands!

Perhaps, by improving our patterns, you will sew a more advanced hiking backpack with your own hands.

Dmitry Ryumkin especially for

Any trip will be much more comfortable, more productive, and safer when your hands remain free. The main load when wearing a backpack falls on the legs and spine. The evolution of this item began when straps were first attached to a simple bag. A lot of time has passed since then, and now there are about one thousand varieties of models on sale, in particular, products for tourism. Among the popular ones is the easel backpack, which has been among the top most popular on the market for several decades. Let’s figure out what is the reason for such popularity, what are the features, advantages, and disadvantages of the product.

The backpack got its name due to the presence metal structure, performing the functions of a frame and called a machine. Traditionally it is made from lungs aluminum alloys. It was important for manufacturers to reduce the weight of the product as much as possible, giving it the necessary rigidity. Today, the machine is made not only from aluminum. The best performance characteristics characteristic of devices made of fiberglass and especially carbon fiber. The configuration of the backpack has also undergone significant changes. A rigid frame gives the traveler the following advantages:

• uniform load on the shoulders and spine, the ability to walk with a straight back;
• availability large quantity independent compartments for storing things with easy access;
• possibility of individual adjustment;
• ergonomic shock absorbers that ensure proper fit to the body and the necessary ventilation;
• free placement of internal contents, which will not interfere with the hike or put pressure on you;
• affordable price;
• reliability and durability.

Admirers of this model can be found on any tourist route: in the forest, in the mountains. They are in no hurry to change a comfortable and ergonomic easel backpack, preferring a more fashion trends. There are reasons for this. No other backpack model has such a rigid design. At a halt, it can be placed in a stable vertical position, which is sometimes necessary.

On some models, a standard camera mount is built into the frame.

The disadvantages of the design include excessive rigidity of the product. Falling with a backpack is extremely unpleasant and often painful. For high mountain travel it is better to purchase other models special design. They are significantly more expensive, and if the desire for snowy peaks is irresistible and hiking is frequent, then it makes sense to spend money on such products. For a regular tourist route, a good frame option is perfect. Due to the design features, items in a tourist easel backpack do not need to be packed using a special method. Even randomly placed hard objects will not put pressure on your back, causing discomfort when walking.

Selection criteria

When purchasing a product, you should pay attention to several important points:

1. Machine material. Carbon fiber is considered the most reliable. In terms of characteristics, it is superior to its aluminum counterpart and is more resistant to impact loads, more resistant to fracture, and lighter.
2. It is recommended to purchase high-quality tourist easel backpacks in specialized stores. It is better to avoid products of dubious manufacture. Buy a backpack for for many years, so there is no point in saving on it.
3. All straps and belts must be equipped with adjustment mechanisms, have sufficient strength, but at the same time be soft. The most important parts are metal, but to facilitate the design, some of the fittings are made of high-strength plastic. Shoulder straps must be anatomically shaped. They are curved outward, made of several layers: strength, decorative, softening.
4. It is important that there are a sufficient number of internal and external pockets. When choosing the latter, it is advisable to pay attention to the presence of a through hole.
5. The weight and size of the product must be selected taking into account your own height and anatomical features.
6. Very important criterion– capacity of the easel backpack.

Preference should be given to products from reputable manufacturers. The control system there is extremely strict - from the careful selection of fabric to the set of accessories and belts. An experienced tourist can touch, appearance determine the quality of the product, so when purchasing it is better to take such a specialist with you. This will help you avoid unnecessary expenses and choose a product that meets the basic criteria the first time.

Which backpack is better, easel or anatomical?

Disputes over the advantages and disadvantages of this or that model have not subsided for many years. Proponents make compelling arguments for their choice, but there is no definitive answer. A powerful advertising campaign for high-tech anatomical products, from the point of view of fans of easel backpacks, is shattered when they propose to stuff a model with a soft back with things, food, canned goods, and then put it on. The difference is significant. Owners of an anatomical backpack will have a hard time, as hard objects will put a lot of pressure on their back.

In turn, fans of anatomical designs quite reasonably prove the validity of their choice by the fact that the product is more ergonomic than an easel backpack. The backpack itself is lighter, and traveling with it is more comfortable. In fact, it is better to use each type when it is most appropriate. It is no coincidence that many experienced tourists have several models that they choose depending on the situation.

It should be recognized that technological progress and the capabilities of modern industry have led to the fact that last generation uses anatomical backpacks in great demand. There is a logical explanation for this. They are more comfortable to use. When storing them at home, they are easier to put on a shelf, since there is no rigid frame. Easel backpack can only be placed or placed on a very large shelf. True, you will have to pay a little more for such convenience.

A good anatomical backpack can cost one and a half to two times more. Professional models are even less affordable.

A special category of backpacks with improved characteristics is necessary for mountaineers and rock climbers. Often the product is made to order, or modified from a purchased model with your own hands. Moreover, stiffening ribs can be inserted into an anatomical backpack, and, on the contrary, some elements can be removed from an easel one. Thus, a kind of hybrid is obtained, having characteristics of both species. Perhaps the industry will begin to produce products that will not be similar to classic designs and will acquire new beneficial properties. By at least, anatomical backpacks are increasingly equipped with rigid inserts, which makes them similar to their easel counterparts.

Video

Photo

• 
• 
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
  
• 
• 
  
• 
  
• 
• 
•