Representatives of the cypress family have become welcome guests in the personal gardens of a large number of people. Therefore, gardeners are interested in propagating thuja by cuttings in the fall at home. This procedure is simple and entertaining, accessible to any purposeful and inquisitive owner. True, you should understand that breeding a thuja is only half the battle; you also need to plant it correctly and provide it with proper care.

Advantages of propagation by cuttings

Although the method of propagating thuja by cuttings produces less hardy plants than the seed method, This technique has a number of significant advantages:

• When breeding varietal thuja using cuttings, there is a guarantee that the resulting young plants will retain all maternal characteristics, including appearance, and this is not always available during seed propagation.
• Cuttings allow you to obtain full-fledged healthy seedlings suitable for planting on permanent place in just three years.

When propagating thuja by seeds, taking into account natural stratification, it will take as long as 5-6 years to obtain full-fledged ready-made seedlings.

The vegetative method also has a significant drawback. Even if all the cutting rules are followed, the survival rate of seedlings, as a rule, is no more than 75%, and in case of violation of the cultivation technology coniferous plants amount of healthy planting material is sharply reduced.

It is preferable to engage in cuttings of conifers in autumn time. In this case there will be a greater chance of rooting maximum quantity twigs, because sap flow slows down in autumn, which means fewer cuttings will die from lack of moisture. True, it will take more time for rooting than when harvesting in the spring, when intensive plant growth occurs.

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Cutting process

Experienced gardeners successfully propagate thujas, like other conifers, on their own. To increase the number of these representatives of the cypress family, there are plant propagation methods such as seed and cuttings. In the second case, the harvesting of shoots can be carried out in spring or autumn. To decorate, for example, a hedge, you will need a lot of thuja seedlings. Propagation by cuttings in autumn is the most popular way to increase the number of conifers.

Preparation of shoots

You should not prepare planting material for breeding evergreen thuja immediately with the onset of autumn. It is better to choose a cloudy October day for this event when active leaf fall has already begun. First of all, you should take a responsible approach to the selection of shoots. Cuttings should be made from branches that are 3-4 years old. It is better to choose the apical shoots of an adult tree, then future seedlings will form a beautiful, lush crown of the correct shape.

You should select absolutely healthy shoots, making sure that there are no peelings of bark from the wood. It is important to ensure that the cuttings have lignified bark, otherwise the rooting process is unlikely to be effective. The optimal length of the prepared shoot should be 25−40 cm. It is better not to cut the branch, but to break it off so that wood and lignified bark remain at its end - the so-called heel. A piece 3 cm long from the heel should be freed from scaly foliage.

Rooting methods

After completing the procedure for preparing cuttings for plant propagation, you can begin to choose a method for rooting them. You can root thuja both in water and in a substrate or diaper.

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The easiest method for rooting woody branches is in water. Pour water into the prepared container. Place only the heel in it, avoiding the leaves touching the surface of the liquid. Up to three cuttings should be placed in each jar. All that remains is to place the containers in a cool place with natural light.

The disadvantage of the method is that plain water practically does not contain the nutrients necessary for the normal development of plants; cuttings take root poorly and then take root poorly.

The method of propagating thuja in a substrate does not have this drawback, although it is more labor-intensive. The procedure in this case will be as follows:

You can root the cuttings with one more in a simple way. For this you will need: peat moss, a plastic bag, a baby diaper and a root growth stimulator. The sequence of actions will be as follows:

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This method is good because the peat moss and the absorbent layer of the diaper do not allow the moisture to evaporate and the heels of the cuttings are constantly in a wet state. In addition, sphagnum has a bactericidal property, preventing rot from appearing on the branches. This method is highly effective and in a simple way rooting of thuja, which does not require special care.

Care during the rooting period

In the first case, when only water is used to root autumn thuja cuttings, care consists only of timely replacement of the liquid. To do this, you need to remove the cuttings by wrapping their heels with a damp cloth. Wash the container, pour water into it again previous level. You can add a little potassium permanganate to the liquid. Return the branches to their place.

The second method, using a substrate, requires timely and regular watering, and this should be done with a spray bottle so as not to wash off the soil from the plants and expose the heels. It is important not to allow the soil to dry out and form lumps, but excess moisture can lead to rotting of the resulting roots.

The simplest, in terms of care, is the third method of propagating thuja - using sphagnum. Peat moss and the retaining layer of the diaper retain moisture very well, so additional moisture is rarely required. It is enough to periodically visually check the bag with cuttings and, based on the presence or absence of condensation inside the bag, decide on additional wetting of the sphagnum and diaper.

One of the most common coniferous plants used for landscape landscaping is a representative of the cypress family - thuja occidentalis or, as it is also called, tree of life.

The plant is distinguished by its durability (up to a hundred years on average), frost resistance, unpretentiousness to weather conditions and soil composition. Tree needles contain essential oils that are beneficial for health and air purification.

The tree crown may be pyramidal or spherical shape, it can be easily modified. Thuja is used to create hedges and various decorative compositions both in private plots and in park areas.

• Brabant– fast-growing thuja, up to 4 m tall. Each year the height increase is approximately a third of a meter and the crown diameter is about 15 cm. Tree of compact, pyramidal shape, bottom reaches the soil. The color is light green with a golden tint at the tips of the needles, retaining its shade in winter.
• Brabant gold- has a yellowish tint. The conical shape of the crown is only found in young trees. With age, the branches of this variety of thuja grow horizontally or arched.
• Emerald– a variety of slow-growing and stable thuja. Grows up to 5 m, crowns grow up to 2 m in diameter. Young trees have a narrow pyramidal shape; with age, the crown takes on the shape of a wide cone. The needles have a bright green color. Good growth requires moist, fertile soil.
• Dannika- a slow-growing, low-growing spherical thuja. Grows up to 1 m in both height and diameter. The color is dark green, becoming coppery in winter. The variety is unpretentious, but grows best in clay soil.

Propagation of thuja by planting seeds

Collection and storage of seeds for propagation of thuja

Thuja seeds ripen closer to autumn. Tree cones containing seeds are collected before they have opened and the seeds do not spill out. Then the cones are sifted and laid out to dry in a warm, dry room. They usually open the next day and the seeds are easy to collect. Seeds should be stored in closed containers in a room with air temperature +5°C and humidity 10%. Under such conditions, they retain the ability to germinate for 3 years.

Timing and preparation for sowing

• Sowing thuja seeds best done in spring. Before doing this, you should check them for germination. To do this, the seeds are placed in small disinfected trays with damp paper at the bottom and left in a lighted and dry room. After about 5 days, the seeds should begin to germinate. For sowing, you need to select seeds whose roots have grown to about half the size of the seed itself.
• They do not require special preparation for sowing, but for a more efficient germination process, seeds can be soak for about 12 hours in water at room temperature or keep for the same amount of time in wet sand. To prevent fungal diseases, it is worth treating the seeds with a formaldehyde mixture at the rate of 1 part 40% formaldehyde to 300 parts water. Then the seeds must be dried for two hours and sowed immediately. Otherwise, the germination rate of thuja seeds will decrease.

Sowing and care

• It is better to sow on ridges of dry soil 10-15 cm high or 20-30 cm if the ground is wet. The width of the ridge is about a meter, and the paths between them are about 40 cm. Thuja seeds are planted to a depth of 0.5-1 cm at the rate of 5-8 grams per meter. After sowing, the ridges should be mulched with leaves, sawdust or small straw in a layer of about 3 cm.
• Shoots should ascend about a month later. They need to be watered regularly, fertilize the soil and be protected from the sun to avoid burns to the thuja root necks. To do this, you can use shields woven from branches. The seedlings will become sufficiently strong in 2-3 weeks and the shields can be removed. Naturally, in cloudy weather there is no need for such darkening. Thuja crops are quite dense, sometimes up to 80 seedlings per meter, so they should be thinned regularly, removing weak and diseased plants.

Advantages and disadvantages of the seed method

The main advantage of this method of propagating thuja is the high probability of healthy seedlings, and the grown trees are more hardy and resilient. Disadvantage of propagation by seeds - long terms breeding (from 3 to 5 years) and the fact that the thuja does not always retain its parental decorative form.

Propagation of thuja by growing season

Timing and preparation of cuttings for propagation of thuja

Caring for seedlings during the rooting process

Advantages and disadvantages of the vegetative method

The advantage of this method of reproduction is in preserving decorative form parent thuja and shorter tree propagation periods compared to the seed method. However, young seedlings in this case require more careful care, they are less resistant to weather changes, and they have a lower percentage of rooting and survival.

Beautiful bushes of decorative thuja

It always seemed to me that in order to have a home on personal plot Such a beautiful plant as thuja requires spending a lot of money.

After all, these plants are quite expensive. But it turns out that it is quite possible to grow such a beauty yourself without spending money on it. Since I succeeded, I want to tell you how to do it yourself and completely free.

If you have a dream to grow lush and luxurious thujas on your plot, then the cutting method will great solution, which can be implemented without problems and costs. And if you follow the rules it will give excellent results.

Thuja can be propagated in two ways: using seeds and cuttings.

Reproduction using seeds is not popular, since this method takes longer, and it is possible to see the result of your labor only after a few years. While propagating thuja by cuttings is much faster and more convenient.

It is best to propagate thuja by cuttings in spring or autumn. This method is the simplest and most effective. Its advantage is the ability to preserve varietal qualities, and the ability to get a full-fledged small tree in just a couple of years.

There are also disadvantages to this method, since such trees are not very hardy.

Strong and healthy individuals are suitable for this purpose, since harvested cuttings from diseased plants will also be weak and diseased. In addition, cuttings not taken from upright shoots may not grow erect, but may have a bent trunk. That's why the best material there will be branches cut from the apical part of the plant.

As material for cuttings, you should take shoots that are already lignified, 2 or 3 years old, grown to 10-15 centimeters, cut from the ends of the shoots. Older plants lose the ability to form a root system.

It is recommended not to cut off the branch for cuttings, but to tear it off along with the heel. This is a piece of last year's bark, which contains nutrients accumulated since last year. For better rooting of cuttings, these branches are the most suitable.

You can root thuja cuttings in different times year, but is considered the most promising autumn period. Although rooting occurs faster in cuttings prepared in spring period. To do this, you need to wait about three months for the root system to form.

But the roots of thuja cut in the fall will have to wait much longer. These plants will only be able to take root next year.

Nevertheless, such seedlings suffer less from lack of water because sap flow stops in the fall. Consequently, more plants will be able to take root. Although rooting will take longer.

It is best to collect material in October, when leaf fall has already ended. It is better to choose a cloudy day for harvesting cuttings. And if the thuja is pyramidal in shape, then it is better to choose cuttings from the side shoots. Great value has the appearance of the tip of the cutting, its color should be green.

When proceeding to the next stage of rooting, you should remove small twigs and leaves to a height of 3-4 centimeters from below. Excess needles at the bottom of the cutting can contribute to further rotting, so you can even shorten the needles at the bottom of the stem somewhat.

After this, the cuttings are placed in a solution of a root formation stimulator for 10-12 hours (Epin or Kornevin are suitable for this).

Cuttings cannot be stored, as they deteriorate and become unsuitable for rooting. If it is not possible to immediately begin rooting, then they are wrapped in a wet cloth and stored in a cool place.

Priming

Light soil with fairly good drainage is best suited for rooting thuja cuttings. Ordinary river sand is very good in this sense. It is also possible to cook soil mixture, mixing peat with sand and leaf soil in equal proportions.

To plant cuttings, shallow containers are used, which must have good drainage and be breathable. If you use ordinary sand as a primer, it is very important to first boil it thoroughly for at least five minutes and then cool it.

In addition, a 3% solution of potassium permanganate should be added to both the sand and the soil mixture before planting, mixing it with the substrate.

Expanded clay or pebbles can be placed at the bottom of the container as drainage. small size. Then the prepared soil mixture or boiled sand is poured on top.

Rooting cuttings

The rooting process itself can be reduced to the following instructions:

• Before planting, cut thuja cuttings are treated in a growth stimulator;
• Insert the branches into the prepared soil at an angle of 45 degrees, deepening them 1.5-2 centimeters into the soil;
• When planting, maintain a distance between seedlings of at least five centimeters;
• After planting, the soil is slightly compacted and watered;
• Containers with cuttings are covered with film or a plastic bag;
• Alternatively, you can use plastic cup, covering it with another similar glass on top.

If the rooting process proceeds normally, then some time after planting the cuttings in the ground you will be able to see the appearance of young shoots on the branches.

Non-standard rooting method

You can also root cuttings in a non-standard way - in potatoes. After all, potatoes contain nutrients and starch, which contribute to the successful rooting of the cuttings.

For this purpose, you need to choose fresh and healthy potatoes. They are thoroughly washed and the eyes are removed, and then using a nail, holes are made about 4 centimeters in length, into which the prepared thuja cuttings are placed.

Then a fertile substrate is poured into the prepared containers, into which potatoes with cuttings are dropped.

The twig is covered with a plastic bottle, the bottom of which has been previously cut off. The bottle cap is then periodically removed, and the plant is watered through the hole.

Rooting cuttings in water is also possible, but this method is not very effective.

Care

Caring for plants until they are planted in a permanent place involves maintaining a certain humidity and temperature.

An indispensable condition is high humidity, at least 70%, and the air temperature is 20-23 degrees. In addition, it is necessary to regularly ventilate the seedlings. The container with seedlings should be in a well-lit place, but at the same time, the bright sun is dangerous for tender young plants.

Watering plants should be done with the utmost care to avoid exposing the “heel” and avoid getting the needles wet.

It is best to use a spray bottle to moisten the soil. In addition, you need to water the plants only after it dries out. top layer soil, since waterlogging can destroy young thujas.

With the onset of autumn, when the plants take root, they are transplanted into slightly larger containers, or into a special school - a bed allocated for these purposes in a secluded place in the garden.

When planting in containers, prepare a nutrient mixture. To do this, mix with peat garden soil in equal proportions.

The rest of the care will consist of timely watering, fertilizing and removing weeds.

Before the onset of cold weather, young seedlings must be covered to protect them from the winter cold. You can use spruce branches, sawdust, and fallen leaves as covering material.

With the onset of spring, the shelter from the seedlings is removed. At the same time, you need to be completely sure that frost will not return. Further care is carried out to the same extent as before. And you can plant young thujas in a permanent place in two years.

Propagation of thuja by cuttings, video:

Any conifer, grown on the site, gives it a unique flavor. IN lately All in great demand Western thujas are used. The variety of colors and shapes of these is extremely interesting plants allows you to satisfy the most demanding customer. But it’s not always affordable to buy the desired variety of thuja in a nursery or store. And there is a possibility that the purchased seedling will not take root in the new place.

You can grow the thuja occidentalis variety you like from a petiole. Thuja cuttings are considered the most effective and simple method thuja breeding. When propagating thuja by cuttings, all grown plants receive the same characteristics, which is very convenient when forming thuja alleys. It is, of course, possible to propagate thuja by seeds, but the seed propagation method is more labor-intensive and does not make it possible to fully preserve varietal qualities.

Let's talk about timing

Even professionals cannot give a definite answer to the question of when is the best time to take thuja cuttings. Here, opinions are divided: some believe that it is best to take cuttings of thuja, like all conifers, in winter, others insist that the best time for this is mid-spring, and others are confident that the best time to harvest petioles is in the summer. Each named method has its own advantages and disadvantages. General rule cuttings are as follows: petioles are harvested only when the growth period of the shoots has ended.

Most gardeners believe that for propagation by thuja cuttings best time is summer. During warm and long summer days, the petioles have time to get stronger and take root securely by the next season.

Proponents of propagating thuja by cuttings in the fall point out that summer cuttings may die during the summer drought.

In spring, petioles are harvested in April, at the beginning of rapid spring growth of the plant. Cuttings prepared during this period can take root by autumn. In early September, such cuttings are planted in separate flowerpots or in open ground. Experience shows that by this time the branch has time to form root system up to 10 cm long.

Basic rules for cuttings

In order to prepare cuttings, you should choose healthy and strong specimens of thuja. Closer to the top of the plant, a fairly branched shoot is selected and the woody growths, 2-3 years old and 10-15 cm long, are sharply torn off from it. It is recommended to tear off the petioles with the heel (the so-called small piece of bark that is set aside at the base of the cutting) - it is believed that this will speed up the process of their rooting. Cut off the branches quickly; if necessary, use sharp pruning shears.

It also matters where exactly the cutting is cut from. It has been noticed that a thuja of irregular shape grows from a petiole taken from a side shoot. Plants with signs of disease are not taken from cuttings at all - a diseased tree will most likely grow into a diseased tree.

It is better to root cuttings immediately after cutting. It is not recommended to leave them for storage - after time, the branches may not produce strong roots. If the petioles still need to be put aside for a while, they are wrapped in a moistened napkin and put in a cool place.

When preparing the petioles for rooting, the branches are freed from excess needles by cutting them off from the bottom. If the branch is branched, it is partially shortened. The bottom of the petiole is slightly cleared of bark. After such mechanical treatment, the branches are placed in water with the addition of a growth stimulator and left for 10-12 hours.

In order to root, prepared branches are immersed in a special substrate that contains river sand and light drained soil. To root thuja cuttings, it is recommended to prepare a mixture containing peat, leaf soil and sand in equal proportions. The soil is laid out in small containers - boxes for seedlings are quite suitable.

The presence of drainage holes in the boxes is a must; this will improve the aeration of the roots. It is even better if the boxes are on small legs, which will also provide air access to the growing roots. A layer of expanded clay, crushed stone, or other small stones is placed at the bottom of the containers.

Before the soil substrate is poured into the boxes, it is treated with a 3% solution of potassium permanganate. It is also recommended to treat the soil mixture with boiling water for complete disinfection.

The ideal medium for rooting petioles is sphagnum moss. It retains moisture well and has an antiseptic effect. By germinating cuttings in this way, you don’t have to worry about the branches drying out and becoming infected with fungal diseases.

The petioles are embedded in the soil mixture at an angle of 45 degrees, no more than 2 cm in depth. When planting branches, you must ensure that the remains of the needles do not come into contact with the ground (otherwise they may rot). When planting, the soil around the cuttings is compacted with your fingers, carefully watered and covered with film or a plastic bag. When propagating thuja by cuttings in the fall, the cuttings are placed in a greenhouse and created there special conditions: Air humidity should be 70% with sufficient lighting. To maintain moisture, use a humidifier and cover the greenhouse with a transparent film. It is also recommended to periodically ventilate the greenhouse and moisten the soil by spraying - this makes it easier to avoid excess water in the soil and maintain the desired level of humidity.

When using sphagnum, the petioles are simply wrapped in moss, then wrapped in gauze and placed in a plastic bag.

How to care for cuttings

A container with petioles or a bag of sphagnum moss is placed in a warm and well-lit place. Important for germinating branches diffuse light. Action of direct sun rays extremely dangerous for thuja cuttings - the branches wither and die.

The soil mixture is moistened as the top layer dries. Excess moisture for germinating branches is as undesirable as its complete absence.

The formation of roots at the petioles can be judged by the appearance of new shoots. If germination was carried out in a greenhouse (as is done with autumn cuttings), then the rooted seedlings gradually begin to harden at this time.

If the rooting of thuja cuttings took place in sphagnum or a seedling box, then 14 days after the formation of roots they are planted for further growth in separate pots or on a bed, where they will grow before being planted in a permanent place of growth. The soil mixture must necessarily contain the addition of peat and leaf humus.

When caring for the cuttings in the future, they are regularly watered, fed and weeded. By winter, the young growth is covered with spruce branches or fallen leaves. In the spring, young thujas are freed from covering material and continue to be cared for according to the previous scheme. Young thujas are planted in a permanent place of growth at 1 or 2 years of age.

Let's draw conclusions

There is quite a lot of advice on how to propagate thuja from cuttings. And there are very different opinions regarding when to select petioles.

If cuttings are cut in the spring, during the first wave of growth, the development of cutting branches takes over the entire development cycle of the plant. But there is a danger here that the cuttings planted for germination will fall under spring frosts. To do this, boxes with cuttings are placed in a mini-greenhouse and covered with film.

It is important to take summer cuttings during the second wave of growth. When germination, it is necessary to monitor soil moisture and frequency of watering. Future seedlings can be seriously damaged by the summer heat. At this time, the plants are periodically sprayed with a spray bottle 2 times a day - morning and evening.

It is also possible to propagate thuja by cuttings in the fall. Petioles cut at this time can be considered the strongest and hardiest. But to germinate them, you need a greenhouse - it is sometimes difficult to count on stable weather conditions in autumn.

As you can see, any time of year (except winter) is suitable for cuttings of thuja. The choice of period depends on whether you can then create optimal conditions for sprouting branches. By strictly following the simple rules of care, you can grow a beautiful thuja tree from any petiole.

It is best to propagate thuja by cuttings, because there is a lot of fuss with the seeds (stratification), but there is little use.

Propagation of thuja by cuttings is a very simple process. Even simpler than it is usually described somewhere, because the survival rate of this plant is very good. You just need to know when and how.

The first time (in the 90s), when I got someone else’s cuttings of western thuja, in winter, I put them in water (in some book I read about this method of obtaining roots, then the Internet was in its infancy). In ordinary water, on the windowsill. I didn’t use any medications. I changed the water periodically.

In general, I hoped that the result would be positive, I really wanted to get my own conifer, but I didn’t even expect that it would work out. Of the 6 pcs, 3 pcs took root in the water. In the spring, I immediately planted them in the ground. The roots were so bad (frail) and therefore only one copy survived, from which my collection came.
Or rather, this is not a collection, because the variety is the same, but simply as many specimens of thuja as I need for landscaping my plot, because I learned how to propagate it from cuttings. Now, if I “steal” a twig of a conifer that I like somewhere, I do it in the spring season, so as not to torment the plant in water, but to immediately plant it in the ground.
Now that I have several adult specimens, I distribute material for cuttings to neighbors, because thujas, like any trees and shrubs, require pruning every year to form the crown and to correct the growth of branches, otherwise the conifer will grow leggy, sparsely leafy and not very beautiful.

Of course, now I have more than one coniferous plant, the western thuja. But I like her so much!!! A stately beauty of considerable stature, fluffy and soft... Much nicer than juniper, because it is not prickly. Suitable for a living fence, whether in a continuous or sparse row. Single landings magnificent both on the lawn and in some composition with ornamental shrubs and flowers. It reacts to pruning instantly, you can cut it a couple of times per season. The annual growth is decent, so if you want to control the growth in height, you need to cut it at least 3 times per season.

Reproduction of thuja occidentalis

Let's return to our propagation of thuja by cuttings.
The cuttings you plant should be:

• with heel
• small size
• without extra branches

If you purposefully take a cutting directly from an adult plant, then you just need to tear off a small branch, pulling it at the attachment point so as to disconnect it from the heel. Be careful that there is no damage to the torn area.

Can be drawn large number specimens from branches that are obtained as a result of formative pruning. In this case, select larger branches and tear off all the branches with the heel directly from them.

Next, to prepare the cutting for planting, you need to cut off all the needles on the lower part of the stem, from the heel to the top, leaving only a couple of upper “leaves”, one of which (the lower one) is left whole, and the top one is cut in half. You can also do both “leaves” » cut in half. This is done in order to reduce the green mass and to awaken the buds.

An additional measure that promotes the formation of roots on the entire surface of the branch that will be in the ground is longitudinal furrowing, which can be used on cuttings of any plants. In this case, you can do without it, because you have a heel on the handle. And on thin branches it is more difficult to make grooves.

Reproduction of western thuja (and any other conifers) is done in the following sequence:

1. a place is being prepared for planting cuttings. This can be simply a bed where the soil is looser, with the addition of a small amount of sand for water permeability. It's better in the shade, for example, near a fence.
2. Use a stick to make a slightly inclined poke to the size of that part of the cutting that will be buried in the ground
3. the prepared cutting (see above) is dipped into the root and inserted into this hole, also obliquely.
4. the soil around needs to be compacted
5. water
6. It is advisable to cover it with something so that the soil does not dry out ( plastic bottles or a short greenhouse)

Propagation of thuja by cuttings in spring

Cuttings for the second spring, after the snow melts (I haven’t loosened the ground yet). A couple of seedlings did not survive the winter...

It is best to propagate thuja by cuttings in the spring, because the soil moisture is most favorable and stable. In this case, you don’t even have to cover it with anything, just make sure that the soil is always moist and does not dry out.

In spring, any plant tries to take root and survive. Such a program is laid down by life itself. Therefore, propagation of thuja by cuttings in the spring gives the highest percentage of success.

Many videos show large cuttings with second and even third order branching. It’s probably taking root, since they’re showing it. But I am of the opinion that the cutting should not be so large, because a large green mass can destroy it due to the discrepancy between the tops and roots: roots not yet, but the top part is very large.

Even if the cutting is very small, it will take root. And grow up in big tree Even a small cutting can do it.

Personally, I don’t cover the thuja cuttings with anything, I don’t create any greenhouse conditions:

• natural selection works, only the strongest survive
• greenhouse conditions reduce the survival rate when transplanting to a permanent place

And in winter they go the usual way, in the garden. I don’t replant anywhere. But in the spring it is clear that the strongest specimens have survived: they have undergone winter acclimatization in this particular area, where they will continue to grow. This is also a big plus.

After transplanting the thuja to a permanent place, for two years it will adapt to its new place of residence, including during the winter and spring periods, when there are nuances of caring for and growing thuja.

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