Fiberboard, or fiberboard as it is called, is most often used in construction and renovation. It can be used as a base for flooring or act as an independent flooring. Feature of fiberboard is the possibility of installation on any type of surface, including old coatings.

Fiberboard slabs allow you to hide many defects lower base such as cracks, crevices or uneven areas. In most cases, fiberboard with a thickness of 3 mm is used. Slabs that are resistant to moisture and impregnated with oil are mainly placed on the first floors of buildings. On uneven bases, slabs with a thickness of 6 mm are used.

Brand	Description
M-1	Soft slabs
M-2	Soft slabs
M-3	Soft slabs
T	solid slabs with untreated front surface
T-P	solid slabs with tinted face layer
T-S	solid boards with a face layer of fine wood pulp
T-SP	solid boards with a tinted face layer of fine wood pulp
ST	hard slabs of increased strength (super hard) with untreated front surface
ST-S	hard boards of increased strength (super hard) with a front layer of fine wood pulp

The advantages of this building material the following:

• low cost;
• ease of installation;
• environmentally friendly, since the board contains natural wood;
• dense structure, due to the fact that fiberboard is produced by hot pressing of sawdust. The addition of antiseptics and synthetic resins gives it best properties even compared to natural wood floors;
• high resistance to mechanical damage;
• strength and durability, but subject to correct operation. This involves creating a protective layer of waterproof paint or water-repellent varnishes, which also allows for much improved appearance coatings;
• Excellent heat and sound insulation, which is why fiberboard is often used as insulation. The slabs are laid on the first floors of multi-storey buildings, as well as in private houses, that is, in cases where the floor surface cannot be raised to a greater height. Insulation of any floors is usually carried out using types of fiberboard such as PT-100, as well as M-20. Fiberboard is laid on top different coatings. The exception is thin linoleum or ceramic tiles;
• The flat surface of this material allows you to get a perfectly flat floor on which you can install any covering.

Stage 1. Preparing the slabs

Before laying the fiberboard, preparatory work. They consist in preparing sheets of material for room humidity. This way you can protect them from swelling. To do this, each fiberboard sheet with reverse side moisten with a brush a small amount warm water. Then all the sheets are folded with their backs and left alone for 24 hours. But in a constantly heated room, this procedure can not be performed, but simply keep the sheets of material in it for 2 days.

Fibreboard slabs are used to level surfaces with small level differences. For large uneven areas, you need to lay the flooring with logs or pour a mixture that will level the surface. Whether the floor is level or not can be checked with a level, which is used to make marks at the same height along the entire perimeter of the walls. After connecting the marks of one common line It will become clear whether the floor requires leveling.

Stage 2. Base for laying fiberboard

The base can be a wooden floor. When laying fiberboard on a wooden floor, slabs with a thickness of about 6 mm are used.

A perfectly flat surface is also obtained by using sand- cement screed, which is made in accordance with the drawn line. Before starting work, sand no more than 50 mm thick is poured onto the coating, which must first be cleaned and well dried, and the finished solution is distributed on top of it.

The photo shows a self-leveling screed, thin layer flooded on concrete base

Then a primer or bitumen dissolved in gasoline is applied to the screed. In this case, it is important to wait about 8 hours for them to dry until they begin to “come off.” Only after this can you lay fiberboard sheets on it using mastic or glue.

The screed is covered with a thin layer of glue or mastic over the entire surface.

Fiberboard boards are also lubricated with glue. Bituminous mastic dries very quickly, so it is not used completely, but only for one sheet. A layer of hot mastic is applied immediately before laying the slab. It is leveled with a rubber comb and the slab is attached. After the slab is glued, it must be pressed down with a weight and left to dry for a while. The coating can be used in a few days.

If chipboard sheets are laid on logs, then before installing them, measure the size of the sheets. After this, they mark on the floor where the logs will be installed. For this purpose, dry and antiseptic-treated beams are used or edged boards, which are attached directly to the floor. The distance between the logs should be no more than 40 cm. Using undried wood leads to rapid rotting and also makes the floor uneven and creaky. As a result, after 2 years it will be necessary to begin new floor repairs.

To keep the logs at the same level, chipboard linings are used. Those that are already on the floor are carefully inspected and performed if necessary. renovation work. Before laying a fiberboard floor, carefully measure the room. It must be taken into account that the width of the slabs should not exceed the width of the joists, otherwise the floor will become uneven and the furniture will fall over.

Stage 3. Laying features

Before starting work on laying fiberboard slabs, you need to carefully inspect the floor. If there are signs of mold on it, it is necessary to apply an antiseptic primer to the surface. If the old coating has a smooth and intact surface, then fiberboard is laid directly on it. In other cases, it is stripped down to the very core.

Fiberboard flooring is made with a slight deviation from the walls of 5-10 mm, which is necessary in order to form a “temperature” seam. Upon completion of the work, it is covered with a plinth. The plates themselves must fit well to each other so that there are no distortions.

Begin laying fiberboard in the corner of the room that is opposite the exit. The slabs are usually laid with the bottom, rough side up. This creates conditions for strong adhesion of the applied mastic to the coating used. In this case, the slabs must be laid out near adjacent walls. In addition, it is important to prevent the formation of a narrow strip of fiberboard along them.

In the case where fiberboard is attached with glue, it must be well leveled over the entire surface of the sheet and allowed to dry a little. To make the coating more durable, the floor must be primed before applying the glue. To secure the slabs to the base, a weight is placed on top. The laying of each fiberboard slab, that is, gluing and pressing, is accompanied by checking their horizontal and level position. If there is a vertical pipeline in the room, a gap is left near it around the circumference of the pipes, which is filled with cement-sand mortar.

When laying fiberboard on logs, the sheets are aligned and laid so that their edges are in the middle of the bars. This is necessary to ensure that the floor is strong and reliable. Moreover, thanks to this method there will be no need to redo the entire floor later. Subsequent slabs are also aligned and joined with previous sheets with a slight offset, which makes the coating more stable.

You should not place slab joints in places where there are the most people, for example, kitchen stove, sink or refrigerator. Fastening is done using screws, self-tapping screws or nails. Slabs with a thickness of 19 mm and more are attached with 50 mm nails. They are driven in at an angle of 30 degrees and in increments of 10cm. It is important that the nail heads are driven tightly and do not stick out from above. Nail marks are also sealed with wood putty, which is matched to the color of the floor covering.

To secure the boards, special nails designed specifically for fiberboards, as well as staples, can be used. Do not use long nails as this may damage pipes or wires located under the subfloor. All joints must be well lubricated with putty so that the floor does not lose its attractive appearance.

Fiberboard slabs placed on joists make it possible to obtain a warmer floor than on a screed. Also this method makes the places where the slabs are attached to the joists completely invisible. In order for them to lie evenly on the prepared base, they need to be trimmed sharp knife, hacksaw, saw or jigsaw. If it is necessary to perform complex cutting of a slab, then a specially designed cardboard template is used for this. When fiberboard is laid on wooden base, bitumen primer is not applied. Regular nails are used to attach the slabs to the boards.

Video - Laying fiberboard on the floor

Stage 4. The final stage of laying fiberboard

Upon completion of the work, the final treatment of the floor is carried out, which consists, first of all, of a careful inspection of the seams. If there is any glue left on them, remove it with a rag. The resulting gaps, if they are more than 2-3 mm, are sealed with putty. At the joints, the slabs are glued with a special reinforcing tape. Thanks to this, high strength connections can be achieved.

The subfloor can subsequently be sanded and primed. But this is not necessary if parquet, linoleum, carpet, laminate will be placed on top of the fiberboard slabs, or if painting will be done.

For painting fiberboard coverings it is used alkyd enamel or a painting composition that has water-repellent properties. If linoleum is used, you can get a durable and wear-resistant floor covering that can be used in a week.

Video - Cutting fiberboard sheets

When carrying out renovations of residential and office premises It is often impossible to do without leveling the floor before laying linoleum, laminate or other covering.

Among various methods Leveling the fiberboard floor is quite popular.

Despite the fact that experts note some disadvantages of using this method, it also has a number of advantages that can play a decisive role when planning repair work.

Methods for leveling floors

The alignment method may vary. This depends on the characteristics of the operation of the premises, the acceptable time frame for completing the work, the budget and other factors, such as the angle of the floor. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. Screed made with cement mortar is considered the most thorough, but it requires a significant amount of preparatory work and a sufficient amount of time, since cement mortar It takes a long time to dry and may take up to 28 days to completely harden. If the surface slope is small, up to 30 mm, you can get by with self-leveling systems. They are able to smooth out any flaws. The drying time of the system does not exceed 2 days, but working with them requires certain skills from the craftsmen. The temperature of the finished surface is always slightly colder than the air temperature in the room, which causes some discomfort. Another disadvantage of bulk mixtures is the price: they are not cheap.

Among dry methods, we can note leveling using ready-made gypsum fiber sheets, which allow you to work even with surface height differences of up to 100 mm. GVLV has only one drawback, but a very significant one - high price. Another option is to use wooden frame, on which chipboard, plywood or sanded wooden boards are then laid. Fiberboard can also be chosen as a floor leveling material.

The advantages of such floor leveling, compared to cement mortar or self-leveling systems, are speed of installation, low sound permeability and good thermal insulation. Let's look at the last method in more detail.

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Let's first briefly remember what fibreboard (fibreboard) is. It consists of pieces of wood impregnated with a special adhesive and compressed under high pressure and at high temperature. This production technology is typical for all types of fiberboard. Each specific type differs in density, impregnation materials and surface polishing (pattern). In this article we will consider such an application of this material as finishing the fiberboard ceiling. In order to make fiberboard ceilings with your own hands, you do not need to have any special skills or special knowledge.

For each room you need to select suitable look material. For a living room, you can take soft fiberboard varieties that will allow air to pass through better, in other words, “breathable.” To sheathe fiberboard ceiling in rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to order sheets of increased density (they absorb moisture much less) and impregnated with a special antifungal solution that will prevent the appearance.

Some “specialists” practically do not pay attention to the weight of a wood fiber board, and it sometimes reaches 30 kg. Imagine what kind of load is created on the ceiling covered with such “weightless” fiberboard slabs! Therefore, we remind you once again - pay attention to the brand of the slab: the lower the density, the lighter the slab. It should be noted that the density of the material is directly proportional to the degree of moisture resistance and strength.

Ceiling technology with wood fiber boards

Let's look at how to sheathe a fiberboard ceiling. The sheathing process is divided into two important stages:

So, you have completed the preparatory work and purchased fiberboard sheets. They must be placed on flat surface and leave these sheets in the room in which the fiberboard ceiling will be sheathed for about a day or two in order to equalize the temperature and humidity of the sheets with the microclimate in the room.

Installation work is best carried out by two people - this best option. You should not carry out the work alone - you may break the sheet or the fiberboard sheet will fall on you or with you.

Mounting methods

To fix it to the sheathing, you can use construction staples (in case of installation on wooden beam and using a construction stapler), nails or screws. Please note that in the latter case, you need to countersink each “breakdown” (make a recess for the head). Methods of fastening to the ceiling depend on the density of the sheet. We remember that the denser the fiberboard sheet, the heavier it is, and, accordingly, the stronger the materials for fastening. Protruding iron from staples or nails must be carefully filled with putty, because over time these iron parts will rust and show through the paint or wallpaper.

The procedure for fixing a fiberboard sheet

First you need to fix the sheet according to the guide rails. To do this, the sheet must be lifted, pressed against the guide profiles and secured with several fasteners along the edges of the sheet. Important detail: This is a pre-commitment. Therefore, do not use staples for this. Secure the sheets with long nails or thin screws that will protrude from the fiberboard. That is, do not completely hammer them in so that you can then pull them out painlessly. The sheet secured in this way is checked with a rope that is pulled across the entire room. If the sheet is unevenly attached, then it is relatively easy to pull out the nails and straighten it.

Now we move on to fixing the aligned sheet. To finally nail the sheet to the ceiling, you need to start from one edge in increments of 15 cm. In this way, we gradually go through the entire sheet, and there will be no bulges on the material.

Finishing work:

Finally, you have finished installing the fiberboard ceiling, everything turned out smooth and without cracks. Now, with a clear conscience, we begin the finishing work.

The ceiling is made of fiberboard, look at the video:

In conclusion, let’s take a closer look at the third option, how to paint fiberboard on the ceiling.

If you don’t know how to paint the fiberboard on the ceiling, we recommend using a foam roller. It will paint the microrelief of the surface well, distribute the paint evenly and the hairs will not fall away from it. If you buy a fur roller, there is no guarantee of its quality. In addition, the fur roll leaves a micropattern of hairs, which does not always dissolve on the ceiling, but on the contrary, under the force of gravity it becomes more convex and noticeable. Use a special telescopic handle and it will be easier for you to do the work.

There may be several reasons for repairing the floor: unevenness of the base, various damages, the need for insulation, and the like. Today there are many materials available on the market, which makes it very difficult to choose one or another floor covering.

However, whatever material you choose, be it laminate or parquet boards, in any case, you can’t do without solid foundation for laying new flooring. To create it they also use different materials, however the best option will become hardboard. The material is one of the varieties of fiberboard (fibreboard).

Hardboard

Manufacturing technology

To make hardboard, wood processing waste is used: shavings, sawdust. During manufacturing, these wastes are mixed with a binder and then sent to a hot press. The final product comes out in the form of a long strip, then it is cut into individual slabs, which are delivered to the store.

When laying, the sheets are cut to the required sizes. On one side the hardboard has a corrugated surface, and on the other it is smooth. This face, which has an attractive appearance, while the back of the hardboard ensures reliable bonding with adhesives.

Back and front surface of hardboard

In addition to polymers, which give hardboard good strength characteristics, the composition includes paraffin and rosin, these components provide the material with water-repellent qualities. The material belongs to the line of environmentally friendly products; it will not emit substances hazardous to health.

The right choice

Today, all hardboard that is presented on the market is marked depending on the method of its manufacture and type finishing coating. if its marking contains the letter T, this means that the sheet is hard, and based on what its front surface is, the material is divided into two types - processed and unprocessed. If the letter C is indicated in the designation, this means that this type hardboard "superhard".

In addition to regular fiberboard, whose back side is corrugated and the front side is brown, manufacturers offer laminated hardboard. The surface of such a sheet imitates different natural materials. The texture can be structured, which looks very beautiful, or smooth.

Laminated hardboard

Therefore, when choosing such a material, it is worth understanding for what work it is needed. If hardboard will serve as a substrate for linoleum, in this case you can purchase an untreated material, it is inexpensive and still copes with its task. The characteristics of this hardboard are similar to the natural wood that is used in its manufacture. This is the material good quality, so it will last quite a long time.

As soon as you buy and bring home the material, do not immediately begin installation; let it lie for two to three days in the room where it is intended to be installed. During this time, the hardboard will undergo acclimatization. The sheets cannot be left in a vertical position; they are carefully laid on a flat surface, and it is important that the place where they are stored is dry.

Important! If hardboard is laid without acclimatization, after some time the material will deform in the form of swelling and warping, then the damaged boards will have to be dismantled and new ones laid in their place.

Although during the manufacture of hardboard, special additives are added to the composition, which provide the material with moisture resistance, there is no need to lay it in places where there is a risk of flooding. And even if installation is carried out in a dry room, it is recommended to additionally treat the material with special moisture-resistant products. You can buy hardboard at any building materials store.

Laying

Installing sheets will not be particularly difficult; such work can be done independently, the main thing is to know the installation technology and perform the actions in the right sequence. Laying is divided into several stages, we will talk about this in more detail.

Installation instructions for hardboard

Preparation of the surface and hardboard slabs

The first step is to clear the surface for installation of the material from debris. Laying of sheets is carried out on the surface of a concrete floor only if it is even. If there are differences in height, then you need to first make a screed, then wait for it to dry completely. If hardboard is laid on a damp screed, the material will absorb moisture from the concrete and quickly warp.

After the screed has dried, it must be primed; this step will extend the service life of the hardboard. For the same purpose, the material can be impregnated with drying oil immediately before installation. In the room where the material is laid, the humidity should be no more than 55%, and the temperature should not be lower than +5 degrees. When the material is prepared and the concrete base is leveled, you can proceed to the second stage of work.

Fit

The sheets are laid out on the floor. In those places where they do not match, they will need to be adjusted. This is not difficult to do. Next, installation is carried out, while the fiberboard is fixed to the floor, this will help avoid damage to the sheets, because the adjustment is easier to perform when they are not fixed. Laying the hardboard is done staggered, and all four corners should not converge in one place.

Fibreboard cutting

Laying

So, the surface has been cleaned and leveled, the sheets have been adjusted, now they need to be correctly laid and fixed. In the case when their installation is carried out on a concrete base, the sheets can be glued using KN 3 or BOSTIK kp2 (kp5) construction adhesive. There is another method of fixation - the use of very heated bitumen. After heating to 180 degrees, the composition is left to stand for a couple of hours, this time is enough for the moisture to evaporate from the bitumen. Next, it is applied to the concrete floor and then the hardboard is glued.

Laying on bitumen

Important! Adhesive compositions for fixing hardboard should not be water-based.

When gluing the sheets, small through slots are made in them; this step will eliminate the risk of deformation. In addition, as soon as the sheet is laid on the bitumen, it is pressed down with a heavy object. After adhesive composition completely dry, you can lay the next layer of sheets, if necessary. After this, you can install the floor covering on the hardboard base.

The best option is to install fiberboard on wooden joists. In this case, first the floor surface is covered with a waterproofing film, then the logs are fixed to the floor with dowels at a distance of thirty to thirty-five centimeters. In uneven areas, leveling pads are placed under the joists.

Afterwards the transverse lathing is performed. It is important that the cell size of the sheathing does not exceed 30 × 30 cm. Once the sheathing is ready, the fiberboard is fixed to it using self-tapping screws at a certain pitch. Along the perimeter of the sheet the step is 15 cm, and on the inner plane - 25-30 cm.

The installation work will be significantly simplified, and the time spent will be small if you install the sheets on a wooden floor. Here you just need to adjust the hardboard to the size of the room and then fix it with nails or screws. As you can see, the method of attaching hardboard to a laid wooden floor is the simplest.

Final processing

When the installation of fiberboard is completed, all that remains is to seal the seams between the laid sheets. Putty is used for this purpose. If self-tapping screws are used to fix the sheets, their caps are also puttied. After cosmetic repairs completed, the floor covering is laid on the hardboard surface.

To better understand how sheets are laid, watch the video presented here:

IN lately Fiberboard flooring has become quite common. This finishing method is practical and reliable and is perfect for surfaces with unevenness or defects.

Most often, installation is carried out on logs, but if desired, you can use other methods. In this article we will look at the procedure for laying fiberboard with our own hands and analyze the features of this material.

Types of fiberboard

Choose the optimal type of fiberboard

The material may have different densities. According to this indicator, slabs are divided into the following types:

1. Soft fiberboard. The density does not exceed 350 kg. The product has high porosity. Perfect for insulating and insulating any surface. It has good sound and thermal conductivity.
2. Semi-solid. The density of such material is no less than 850 kg. Mainly used for furniture production.
3. Solid. Density varies from 800 to 1000 kg. They have low porosity and are used to make furniture and doors.
4. Super hard. The density indicator is not less than 950 kg. Used for finishing different surfaces, as well as in the manufacture of furniture. The front part is smooth and covered with protective varnish or paint.

Fibreboards are produced according to standard sizes. Length varies from 1220 to 3000 mm. Width from 1220 to 1700 mm. The thickness ranges from 2.5 to 40 mm. The dimensions depend on the type of product and its density.

Conditions for laying fiberboard

There is no need to remove old boards

Laying fiberboard on a wooden floor has its own nuances. Removing old boards can be neglected especially in older houses. They will help provide strength and provide an additional source of heat, but over time they can become unusable, so individual sections will need to be replaced.

• a working machine with high vibration;
• metal furniture legs;
• heavy furniture, especially if pressure will be applied to the gaps between the joists.

It is extremely important to choose the right material and carry out the installation procedure. The quality of the floor, its strength and service life depend on these factors.

Horizontal coverage is an extremely important factor in the floor installation procedure. So you need to prepare everything in advance necessary tools, especially the building level, which will help you take measurements correctly and accurately.

It is also extremely important to treat the old base. For this you will need:

• get rid of dust and dirt;
• remove the skirting boards that prevent the installation of fiberboard;
• seal all the cracks to ensure good level tightness;
• make markings according to which alignment will be carried out in the future;
• if you plan to make a cellar, for example, in a private or country house, it is better to start the work with its arrangement and only then move on to processing the floor.

Please note that the installation of fiberboard should not be done too tightly, otherwise the edges of the material may be damaged. Also, the distance from the wall should be about 6 mm; this gap will be used for installing skirting boards.

It is recommended to start processing from opposite wall To front door. If you have little experience in the construction craft, you will need to carefully check the first layer building level to prevent possible inaccuracies and irregularities.

Advantages of finishing fiberboard floors

A floor lined with fiberboard is suitable for laying linoleum or parquet

Fiberboard is a fairly popular material. It is often used for repairing and finishing various surfaces.

The material gained its popularity due to its low price and good quality. Most often, fiberboard is used for:

• floor leveling;
• laying under linoleum or parquet;
• finishing of different surfaces.

The advantages of this material are:

• to level the floor you will need a beam that will act as a base;
• low protection against moisture;
• with strong mechanical impact or impact, a gap may form between the lags;
• low fire resistance, which can become critical in a fire;
• additional is required protective treatment, otherwise the coating will wear out quickly. To see what happens to fiberboard in a damp room, watch this video:

Thus, fiberboard is good decision for treating almost any surface subject to low humidity.

Selection of materials

Purchasing building materials is an extremely important and responsible task. The wide variety of choices often leads to confusion.

There are certain tips for buying fiberboard:

1. If you plan to paint the floor after leveling, it is better to buy decorative material. If desired, it can be laid out in patterns similar to laminate.
2. If fibreboards are installed under laminate or other covering, appearance will not be so important. Here you will need to pay more attention to the technical characteristics of the material. There is a certain scale of standards that will help you understand technical specifications products. For more information about fiberboard and similar materials, see this video:

The main criteria indicating the quality of fiberboard are:

• identical coating dimensions;
• uniform thickness for all sheets;
• uniform surface of the material.

Choosing timber for logs

Do not store timber in a damp place

Purchasing timber for further processing, we recommend using the following tips:

1. The wood from which the timber is made must be dry.
2. We recommend refraining from early purchase and storage in a damp room, as the material may deteriorate.
3. It is necessary to purchase wood of the 2nd or 3rd class, treated with special antiseptics.
4. The cross-section of the timber should vary from 40 to 70 mm.
5. A small number of cracks is acceptable.
6. There should be no fungus or other bacteria.

Fibreboard cutting procedure

When processing using sheets, it must be taken into account that cutting of the material may be necessary. Some shops provide this service, but you will need to tell them the exact dimensions of the room where the work will be carried out. For more information on how to cut material, watch this video:

Keep in mind that it is better to make the material shorter and use the empty space for installing the plinth, rather than leaving excess, which is very difficult to get rid of.

Cutting using a machine will provide more high quality work. If this is not possible, you can use the following tools:

Trimming is quite often used to create recesses for pipes, plumbing and heating systems, and niches for walls. Holes can be made using a jigsaw or sharp construction knife. We recommend that you first make a template on cardboard and only then mark the sheet.

Procedure for laying joists and fiberboard on the floor

Before installation, treat the logs with an antiseptic

Please note that materials should not be stored in a damp place. It is better to place the timber horizontally and the fiberboard vertically along the wall. In this case, it is desirable that the room be at room temperature.

The lags are laid on a previously prepared surface. Preparation is carried out using a cement screed. Way installation of fiberboard Suitable for both leveling the surface and completely replacing it.

If this is your first time creating a fiberboard floor, we recommend watching the instructional video. Many hire professionals to install the logs, and install the slabs themselves. The first step is to carefully inspect the surface for the presence of fungus or mold and, if found, get rid of it. For more information about leveling the floor, watch this video:

Then you will need to treat the floor areas with a primer and antiseptic to prevent possible appearance bacteria.

Fiberboard sheets must touch on the joists

The procedure for installing fiberboard on logs is as follows:

• sheets of material must be laid so that the seams touch directly on the bars;
• fastening occurs using screws or nails. The spacing is about 100 mm at the edges and about 135 mm in the center;
• The next sheet should not be installed closely. The space between rows can vary from 2 to 3 mm;
• installation along parallels is carried out in a similar way.

Installation using glue has the following nuances:

1. The glue must be applied to the entire plane of the structure and at the same time try to distribute the substance without smudges.
2. It is necessary to allow time for the solution to dry. It will take about 30 minutes.
3. The glue is applied over the primer.
4. Afterwards, the material is pressed and its location is checked.

Finally, you will need to remove all remaining adhesive. The space between the sheets can be treated with putty or using reinforcing tape. The fiberboard floor can then be varnished or painted on top to provide additional protection.