Drill and hand drill

Drill - DPR-52 engine, found in printers and hair dryers. Hand drill- engine from car compressor, found in small heat guns and hair dryers.

Drill 2

Drill with replaceable tips. Motor PIV MTM, from the tape drive of a vertical tape recorder, Bulgarian. The tachometer is removed, and a flexible shaft of the drill is fixed in its place. Rotation from the motor axis is transmitted to the shaft using a tightly fitted spring. Strengthened on the right side of the axle diamond blade for straightening burs. The entire mechanism is fixed in a holder with two degrees of freedom and easily rotates left and right, back and forth. The entire structure is suspended on the desktop at the top right and does not interfere with work. You can recess the motor into the table so that the drill hose extends vertically upward.

Engraving drill

Drill for engraving work. The motor runs at 8,000 rpm, the hose endures up to 10,000 rpm. The motor and hose are connected by a spring placed on the axle.

Drill 1

Handle with a mechanism from a pneumatic drill. The motor transmits rotation to the turbine, mounted through an adapter ring. The drill body already contains a planetary gearbox of approximately 3:1. A very powerful machine. Turning work was required: an adapter ring, a bushing on the shaft, and adjustment of the Morse taper to size 2a. It was difficult to install the high current button.

Drill 2

Motor PIV 6 25/3A made in Bulgaria, operates from 5 to 40 V, from a vertical tape recorder/drive. The tachometer (rear) is not used, but balances the entire structure well. The button acts on the contact group from the iron, is powerful and does not burn.

Cutting machine 1

Cutting machine 1 is made for unreinforced abrasive discs with a thickness of 0.5-2 mm. Movable table. The "braking" resistor is visible.

Cutting machine 2

Cutting machine 2 is made for unreinforced abrasive discs with a thickness of 0.5-2 mm. Two working positions, from the upper and lower tables, so the motor is in reverse. I cut boards, make keys, cut out frames for transformers.

Drilling machine 1

Drilling machine with collet chuck by 0.8 mm. Made from the remains of a mechanism called an "aluminum tag press." Engine DPR-52, I lengthened the axle only for the beauty of the whole structure. Drill stroke - 20 mm. The drill box is visible and abrasive disc on the engine axis at the top for straightening drills.

Sanding machine 2

Burnishing machine chambered for 2a. A stand made of aluminum profile contains a worm gear, with its help the carriage on bearings moves 80 mm under the drills different lengths. The handle itself moves the motor another 20 mm. At the top of the motor axis is an abrasive disc for finishing drills, protected by a frame. The motor is Bulgarian, from a tape recorder, the profile is from a display case, the worm is from a water valve, the bearings are from a retractable table.

Sanding machine 3

It's just a beautiful machine. Base - frame for linear movement 8-inch drive heads. On six bearings. The cartridge is fixed in the sleeve from the fan of the same drive. Worm gear - from a 5-inch floppy, round handle up. The last 20 mm of the drill stroke is done with a separate handle. The transmission from the motor is a rubber belt, but a flat belt is better. I'll make the engine stronger.

Making various crafts, furniture, do-it-yourself repair cars are popular not only because of the innate ability of our people to create. This is also a good saving for the family budget.

However, such a hobby requires special equipment. Every home has basic hand tools, including electric ones. Drill, screwdriver, grinder, manual circular saw, jigsaw.

These devices make work easier home handyman, but with their help it is impossible to perform work professionally. The home workshop should be equipped with compact machines.

Review of homemade machines for the home workshop - video

Such equipment is offered in abundance by specialized stores.

Having equipped workplace With such an arsenal, you can make anything you want. But the high cost of the tool negates the savings in the production of crafts.

There is only one thing left - to make the machines yourself. Homemade equipment can work no worse than factory equipment. In addition, constructive know-how can be contributed to expand capabilities.

Homemade machines for a home woodworking workshop

Wood lathe

It can be made from existing tools. Enough strong table, or just solid board installed on legs. This will be the stand.

A clamping spindle is not necessary for wooden workpieces. As well as a separate drive motor. There is a simple comprehensive solution– electric drill.

If there is a speed controller - generally great. Fixed in the cartridge feather drill on wood. It needs to be modified: sharpen the working edge in the form of a trident.

The next required element is the tailstock. In metal lathes, it is necessary to support long blanks. When processing wood on a machine without a clamping spindle, the tailstock is a locking element. She presses the blank against the trident and supports it on the axis of rotation.

Typical tailstock design in the illustration.


The cutter in such a machine is not fixed in the support. Wooden blanks are being processed hand chisel, which rests on the tool rest.

Many home craftsmen are thinking about how to make their own metal lathe. This desire is explained by the fact that with the help of such a device, which will be very inexpensive, you can effectively perform a large range of turning operations, giving metal workpieces the required dimensions and shape. It would seem much easier to acquire the simplest table machine and use it in your workshop, but given the considerable cost of such equipment, it makes sense to spend time making it yourself.

A homemade lathe is quite possible

Using a lathe

A lathe, which was one of the first to appear in the line of equipment for processing parts made of different materials, including from metal, allows you to manufacture products various forms and sizes. With the help of such a unit you can turn external and internal surfaces workpieces, drill holes and bore them to the required size, cut external or internal threads, roll to give the surface of the product the desired relief.

A serial metal lathe is a large device, which is not so easy to operate, and its cost is very difficult to call affordable. It is not easy to use such a unit as desktop equipment, so it makes sense to do it yourself. Using such a mini-machine, you can quickly turn workpieces made not only of metal, but also of plastic and wood.

Such equipment processes parts with a round cross-section: axles, tool handles, wheels, structural elements of furniture and products for any other purpose. In such devices, the workpiece is located in a horizontal plane, while it is given rotation, and the excess material is removed by a cutter securely fixed in the machine support.

Despite the simplicity of its design, such a unit requires clear coordination of the movements of all working parts so that processing is carried out with extreme precision and best quality execution.

An example of a homemade lathe with drawings

Let's take a closer look at one of the working options for the assembled on our own lathe, enough high quality which he rightfully deserves close attention. The author of this homemade product did not even skimp on the drawings, according to which this device was successfully manufactured.

Of course, not everyone needs such a thorough approach to business; often simpler designs are built for home needs, but as a donor for good ideas, this machine is perfectly suited.

Appearance machine Main components Caliper, tool holder and chuck
Side view of the tailstock Bottom view of the tailstock
Guide shafts Caliper design Engine drive
Drawing No. 1 Drawing No. 2 Drawing No. 3

Structural units

Any lathe, including a homemade one, consists of the following structural elements: a supporting frame - bed, two centers - driving and driven, two headstocks - front and rear, spindle, support, drive unit - electric motor.

All elements of the device are placed on the frame; it is the main load-bearing element lathe. The headstock is a stationary structural element on which the rotating spindle of the unit is located. In the front part of the frame there is a transmission mechanism of the machine, with the help of which its rotating elements are connected to the electric motor.

It is thanks to this transmission mechanism that the workpiece being processed receives rotation. The tailstock, unlike the front one, can move parallel to the direction of processing; it is used to fix the free end of the workpiece being processed.

A homemade metal lathe can be equipped with any electric motor, even if it is not of very high power, but such a motor can overheat when processing large-sized workpieces, which will lead to its stop and, possibly, failure.

Typically, electric motors are installed on a homemade lathe, the power of which is in the range of 800–1500 W.

Even if such an electric motor has a small number of revolutions, the problem is solved by choosing an appropriate transmission mechanism. To transmit torque from such electric motors, belt drives are usually used; friction or chain mechanisms are very rarely used.

Mini-lathes, which are equipped in home workshops, may not even have such a transmission mechanism in their design: the rotating chuck of the unit is fixed directly on the electric motor shaft.

There is one important rule: both centers of the machine, driving and driven, must be located strictly on the same axis, which will avoid vibration of the workpiece during its processing. In addition, it is necessary to ensure reliable fixation of the part, which is especially important for frontal-type models: with one leading center. The issue of such fixation is resolved using a jaw chuck or faceplate.

In fact, you can make a lathe with your own hands using wooden frame, but, as a rule, metal profiles are used for these purposes. High rigidity of the lathe frame is required so that the accuracy of the location of the driving and driven centers is not affected by mechanical loads, and its tailstock and support with the tool move freely along the axis of the unit.

When assembling a metal lathe, it is important to ensure reliable fixation of all its elements, be sure to take into account the loads to which they will be subjected during operation. The dimensions of your mini-machine and what structural elements it will consist of will be influenced by the purpose of the equipment, as well as the size and shape of the workpieces that are planned to be processed on it. The power of the electric motor, which you will need to use as a drive, will depend on these parameters, as well as on the size of the planned load on the unit.

To equip metal lathes, it is not recommended to choose commutator electric motors that differ in one characteristic feature. The number of shaft revolutions of such electric motors, as well as the centrifugal force that the workpiece develops, increases sharply as the load decreases, which can lead to the part simply flying out of the chuck and can seriously injure the operator.

Such electric motors can be used if you plan to process small and light parts on your mini-machine. But even in this case, it is necessary to equip it with a gearbox that will prevent an uncontrolled increase in centrifugal force.

It has already been proven by practice and design calculations that for turning units on which metal workpieces up to 70 cm long and up to 10 cm in diameter will be processed, it is best to use asynchronous electric motors power from 800 W. Engines of this type are characterized by stable rotation speed when there is a load, and when it decreases, it does not increase uncontrollably.

If you are going to make your own mini-machine for performing metal turning, then you should definitely take into account the fact that its chuck will be affected not only by transverse but also longitudinal loads. Such loads, if a belt drive is not provided, can cause destruction of the electric motor bearings, which are not designed for them.

If it is not possible to use a belt drive, and the driving center of the device is directly connected to the electric motor shaft, then a number of measures can be taken to protect its bearings from destruction. A similar measure can be a stop that limits the longitudinal movement of the motor shaft, which can be used as a ball installed between the electric motor housing and the rear end of its shaft.

The tailstock of the lathe houses its driven center, which can be stationary or freely rotating. Most simple design has a fixed center: it is easy to make on the basis of a regular bolt, sharpening and grinding the part that will come into contact with the workpiece to a cone. By screwing or unscrewing such a bolt, moving along a threaded hole in the tailstock, it will be possible to adjust the distance between the centers of the equipment, thereby ensuring reliable fixation of the workpiece. This fixation is also ensured by moving the tailstock itself.

In order for the workpiece to rotate freely in such a fixed center, the pointed part of the bolt that comes into contact with it will need to be lubricated with machine oil before starting work.

Today it is not difficult to find drawings and photos of lathes that you can use to make such equipment yourself. Moreover, it is easy to find various videos, demonstrating the process of their manufacture. This can be a mini CNC machine or a very simple device, which, nevertheless, will give you the opportunity to quickly and with minimal labor input produce metal products of various configurations.

The stands of a simple metal lathe can be made from wood. They will need to be securely fastened to the unit frame using bolted connections. If possible, it is better to make the frame itself from metal corners or a channel, which will provide it with high reliability, but if they are not at hand, you can also pick up thick wooden blocks.

The video below shows the process self-made lathe support.

As a unit on a machine on which it will be fixed and moved cutting tool, a tool rest will appear, made from two wooden planks connected at an angle of 90 degrees. On the surface of the board where the tool will be placed, it is necessary to fix a sheet of metal that will protect the wood from deformation and ensure the exact location of the cutter in relation to the workpiece. It is necessary to make a slot in the supporting surface of the horizontal plank moving along the frame of the unit, due to which such movement will be quite accurate.

Snail equipment for cold forging- required hand tool any craftsman who makes forged products without heating the metal. The “snail” is designed to bend a metal rod during cold forging of metal. Making a “Snail” for cold forging with your own hands is not so difficult.

Using homemade cold forging machines, you can make many openwork metal products. Forged fences, fences, gates, gates, railings, benches amaze with their interesting shapes and rounded smooth lines. It is the curved shapes of forged products that are made using a “snail” - a machine for cold forging of metal.

The production of snail equipment takes place in several stages.

In the next video you can see how a craftsman made a homemade “snail” with his own hands, as well as how and what kind of blanks can be made using such equipment for cold forging.

This video shows another interesting view a homemade “snail” on which it is convenient to bend forgings into curls and volutes. According to the master, “everything is made more convenient and easier on this machine.”

The following video contains a drawing and description of the snail device and necessary materials for the manufacture of a bed and patterns for the production of forged curls.

If a person often faces the need to make something from wood, simply loves to do it, or produces things to order, then he simply needs a machine. It is not only expensive to purchase such things, but they also do not always fit in size, may be uncomfortable or do not fit into the design. But a homemade machine with your own hands, made to the required dimensions, will fit perfectly into the space of the room and will always be convenient.

Engine

If you have decided to manufacture this device yourself, then it is important to choose the right components. For example, in order to design, you will definitely need an electric motor. This part can be of several types.

The first type of motor that can be used when making a machine with your own hands is an asynchronous one. The advantage is that it requires no maintenance and will also allow you to work with a larger cutter. Among the shortcomings we can highlight large number the noise the engine makes when running. However, this is a purely individual question.

Commutator motor. This option is somewhat worse than the previous one, for the reason that over time and the work of the part, its brushes wear out and have to be replaced. The more and more intensively the engine is used, the more often the brushes will have to be changed.

Engine power

Choosing the type of engine for a homemade machine with your own hands is not all. You need to pay attention to the power of this element. This is a very important indicator.

Machines with power up to 0.5 kW are best suited for surface processing of material. It is worth adding that only the softest types of wood can be processed on such a machine and only small cutting tools can be used.

The second type of engine power for a homemade do-it-yourself machine is 1.2 kW. As practice shows, this indicator is the most universal and in demand. This power is quite enough for deep wood processing. For home use 1.2 kW is quite enough.

The last type of power is up to 2 kW. Most often, such machines are already semi-professional. They open ample opportunities for wood processing, they allow you to use almost any type of cutter, as well as process some types of plastic and soft metal - aluminum.

Speed ​​and power supply of the workbench

If we talk about the number of revolutions for a homemade machine with your own hands, then everything is quite simple and clear. The higher the numerical value of this characteristic, the cleaner and more efficient the final processing of the wood part will be. However, there is another small plus. If the speed is high enough, then such an engine is not afraid of such wood defects as knots. The cutter will pass them without any problems.

With nutrition, everything is also quite simple. Most often, those engines that are powered by 220/50 are selected. Installing and connecting this type of motor does not cause problems. Several more difficulties arise when connecting elements with three-phase power.

Workbench and frame for the unit

A do-it-yourself woodworking machine must have an element such as a workbench. The choice of its size should be based on what parts will have to be worked with in the future. The dimensions of the table on which all this will be mounted are not particularly important.

The frame for the machine must be selected so that it is not only very strong, but also can withstand dynamic loads. The main difference between a self-assembled electric woodworking machine and a manual one is that the device itself will not move, but the workpiece will have to be actively moved. From a practical point of view, using wood for a machine frame is not best idea. This is due to the fact that over time the wood dries out, becomes cracked and loses its strength. Most the best option will become metal pipe, which has a square or rectangular profile.

Tabletop

When choosing this element, everything is exactly the same as with the frame, but vice versa. Metal will not best choice as starting material for two reasons. Firstly, the tabletop will turn out to be very massive and will have a too rough appearance. Secondly, you will have to use welding to secure everything securely.

It is best to use one of the following three materials:

• planed boards;
• chipboard boards, OSV;
• multilayer plywood.

The material for the countertop must be quite durable to withstand subsequent loads. For this reason, the thickness and material for the manufacture of this element must be selected based on what work will be carried out in the future. One more important detail- This smooth surface table. If you do not follow this recommendation, you will not be able to make an accurate cutter. If it is important to assemble a homemade machine with your own hands so that it can be used to produce workpieces of decent quality, then this is one of the most important conditions.

In order to provide perfect flat surface, you can use methods such as lamination, upholstery with sheet iron or precise fitting of planed boards.

How to make a machine with your own hands

The assembly procedure for this device begins with the need to determine the location of the engine. The best option Installing this element under the table is considered. A cutter is placed on the motor shaft, which should be directed vertically upward. In order to facilitate the assembly procedure, it is best to make a drawing of the machine with your own hands, on which all the parts were depicted in advance.