Hello everyone! Let's talk about the electric planer today. If you use it correctly, you will also ensure high quality treated surface, and will not allow the tool to injure you. So, in this article we will look at the question of how to properly use an electric plane.

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Sharpening knives and installing them

In order for the treated surface to be smooth and clean, it is necessary to use an electric planer with well-sharpened and correctly aligned knives, and it is also necessary to set the correct planing depth and move it correctly along the surface.

It is stupid to use a plane with dull knives, since, firstly, the surface will turn out to be rough and sloppy, and secondly, in this case the engine will receive excessive load, which will lead to its premature wear. Knives can be sharpened, or they can simply be thrown away after becoming dull, and new ones are put in their place - this applies to thin knives, which are now used on most modern electric planers. Unsharpenable and many sharpened blades have two sharp sides, which allows you to work on the second after dulling one side. Naturally, one-sided knives cannot be turned over.

It is better to entrust sharpening to specialists in special workshops, of which there are usually plenty in cities, since this requires special equipment. However, there are craftsmen who sharpen knives themselves with the help of household sharpeners - the most important thing here is that your eyes do not fail to see the smallest irregularities, as well as your hands, so as not to make unnecessary such irregularities. But it’s still better to contact a special service, since this procedure is inexpensive.

Now about installing the knives. Using an electric planer with blades that are not aligned correctly can be hazardous to your health and can also lead to unpleasant results on the surface being treated. They can be attached differently on different models. It is better to find out how to replace it in the instructions. After installation, the knife should stick out evenly from the drum without distortion. How far it should stick out of the drum can be determined using a ruler. After installation, we set a certain planing depth, and then apply the ruler to the knife with the end side so that it is parallel to the front sole of the plane. Now you can use the second ruler to measure the distance between the front sole and the first ruler. It must match the set planing depth.

After installing the blades, make sure that they do not touch the body by rotating the drum with your hands. And all work, of course, must be carried out with the plug unplugged.

Surface treatment

When planing, you should follow a number of simple rules that will allow you to achieve the best result.

The workpiece to be processed should be securely secured so that it does not dangle during planing. If you are going to use a plane to process large and heavy beams or boards, then the main thing is that they lie on sufficient ground. flat surface, but there is no need to secure them somehow, since they are already heavy and will not run away anywhere.

Before applying the plane to the workpiece, you should first turn it on and let it dial in the air full speed, and only after that you can start removing chips. It is advisable to drive it along the surface without jerking or stopping at a speed of 1.5-2 m per minute. If you work at this speed, the best processing quality is ensured.

What depth to set depends on how uneven the surface being treated is. It happens that at sawmills, timber or boards are sawed so that the surface turns out to be waves. It is better to first go through such surfaces with the maximum planing depth set, and then process it at a lower level. In this case, not one pass, but several may be required.

You need to use the plane so that the pressure during planing is applied evenly over the entire sole. However, when you just bring it to the edge of the surface to be treated, you should press a little harder on the front part. And when it reaches the end, you should press harder on the back. This will prevent the formation of debris along the edges of the board or timber. The pressing force can only be determined experimentally.

It happens that when planing there are differences between adjacent passes. It is possible to prevent their occurrence, as well as to correct them if they do appear, only with the acquisition of some experience. If such differences appear, they can be removed by running a plane with the minimum planing depth set. In this case, you should work so that there is no strong pressure on the tool.

If your device supports the quarter removal function and you decide to use it, then you should do the following. First, you will need to install the included side stop. This is done according to the instructions, different models the fastening can be arranged in your own way. Then you should make sure that the side of the board on which you will remove the quarter is smooth and does not have differences. If it is uneven, then the side stop passing along it will repeat this unevenness, and the quarter will be removed crookedly.

When working to remove the quarter, be sure to apply pressure to the tool from both the top and the side. Sometimes, forgetting to tighten the plane on the side, it moves towards the edge, and the quarter is again removed unevenly.

How to Use an Electric Planer Safely

When working with a plane, you should follow some safety rules that will protect your body from injury.

Naturally, before work, you need to make sure that the insulation on the power supply cord of the electric planer is in good condition. If the wires are exposed or cracked, the wire must be replaced. Do not use a tool with damaged wires.

It was also mentioned above that switching must be done before its sole comes into contact with the workpiece. And only after it reaches full speed should it be brought to wooden surface. Also, after releasing the planer power button, you should wait until the drum stops completely, and only then put it down.

A plane connected to the network, but left idle for a while, should be placed on its side so that if it is turned on unintentionally, it cannot move anywhere.

These are the features of using a plane. I hope you found the article useful. See you!

Planing with an electric planer is a fairly easy process if you have at least some minimal knowledge. But things are different if you need to process very wide board.

After all, not everyone can do this efficiently, but it is necessary that the layer is removed evenly from the surface of the board, and no processing boundaries are visible.

Instructions for planing with an electric planer

Before processing a wide board with an electric planer, first experiment on a piece that you do not need.

Note that the electric planer can operate in two modes: stationary and manual.
If you use the stationary mode, the board is passed through the knives of an electric planer.

Manual mode requires special settings for the electric planer. First you need to adjust the cutting depth of the knives. Usually they set it to 0.1-0.4 cm. The shallower the planing depth, the better the processing of the material will be, and you will practically not notice the boundaries between passes. If it is necessary to perform deep planing of a board, then first set the maximum cutting depth of the knives, make the first pass, and then the knives are reconfigured for better planing.

When you work with an electric planer a couple of times, you will learn to correctly select the depth of cut, and the work process will noticeably speed up.

We process wood: what do you need to know?

Before processing lumber, you need to determine the direction in which you will plan. Usually planed in the direction of the wood grain. If the lumber is made from several boards, then you need to plan it diagonally.

To prevent the edge of the board from becoming uneven, you need to use a corner stop, which is attached to the base of the electric planer on the side and perpendicular to its axis.

When you have finished planing the wide board, you will need to align the boundaries between the passes. This stage is called scraping. For this, a special grinder is used, which will remove all roughness.

A plane is a traditional carpenter's tool, a kind of symbol of this profession. The shape of the instrument and the methods of working with it, despite its technical improvement over many years, have not essentially changed.

So that the planing process wooden blank flowed “without a hitch” (as evidenced by twisted shavings freely coming out of the slot in the plane block), it is necessary to fine-tune the plane knife and move the plane correctly along the surface being planed.

Planing is a real pleasure when using a planer thin and long twisted chips fly out.

Fixing the knife in the vice of the workbench plane with exposed chipbreaker, lightly tighten the screw. After wedging is fixed with a chipbreaker itself due to its springiness.

Insert the knife into the tap hole of the plane and at first they only secure it by hand wedge in its guides.

To determine is it set correctly? knife (its blade should be parallel sole plane planer and protrude slightly over her), you just need turn the plane over and evaluate mutual blade parallelism knife and sole by eye. To adjust (if necessary) position knife, release the wedge, align the knife correctly and fix it again wedge

When planing the faces of workpieces, the knife should remove chips of uniform thickness. To do this, you need to adjust the chipbreaker of a jointer, a double plane (with a double blade) or a sander. The chipbreaker performs the function corresponding to its name and should be installed slightly above (about 1 mm) the knife blade and fit snugly against it.

First, the knife with the chipbreaker fixed on it is inserted into the slot (tap) of the block (body) and slightly wedged. Then set the knife with light blows of the hammer so that its blade is parallel to the sole of the plane and protrudes slightly above it. After this, the knife is finally fixed in the block with a wedge, screw or cam clamp (depending on the design of the plane).

Since when planing upper part If the body of the worker makes movements together with the plane, then the carpenter should stand on the side parallel to the workpiece being processed, with one leg placed forward. To prevent the plane from tipping over at the beginning and end of the workpiece (then the surface being processed in these areas will be uneven), you should lean harder first on its front handle, and then on the back handle at the exit.

PRECISION PLANE

In modern planes with a metal block, the blade is usually secured with a screw. With another screw (set screw), you can adjust the plane to the required thickness of the chips being removed with an accuracy of hundredths of a millimeter. In addition, such planes are equipped with a so-called blade tilt regulator, which allows you to quickly, just press thumb hands on the corresponding lever to correctly position the knife blade relative to the sole of the plane.

EDGE PLANING

When planing the edges of flat workpieces, you should move the plane along an even path along the entire length of the workpiece, leaning evenly on it. In this case, the knife must be secured securely so that it does not vibrate in the block. In addition, you should avoid breaking the chips by cutting in the direction of the wood grain. When processing wood pieces with thin and irregular texture (for example, root), the knife must be sharpened very well. When planing, such a workpiece should be constantly rotated.

It is more convenient to trim a narrow edge using, for example, a piece of board, pressed against the workpiece, or planing simultaneously edges of several thin boards collected in a package. In this case the supporting surface increases for the sole of the plane.

To prevent the edge from becoming rounded, The plane must be held level, without tilting in any direction.

Sherhebel can be removed in one pass thicker layer of material.

The end of the workpiece will be planed much easier if you hold a plane at an angle to the workpiece faces.

Wide wooden overlays, attached with a clamp to both edges of the workpiece, eliminating chipping when processing the end.

Short length workpieces turn out very smooth with a silky shine after processing only with a sander.

When planing layers it is necessary constantly check with steel processed with a square surface.

When processing long workpieces has proven itself best a jointer that can even plan towards the fibers.

PLANING PLATES

To make a rough but even surface smooth, it is enough to treat it with a sander (a tool with a knife angle increased to 60° for fine planing of hard-to-cut wood) and a jointer. To eliminate unevenness or remove a thicker layer, treatment with Sherhebel will be required. The latter is equipped with a narrow (33 mm wide) convex knife with an oval blade, capable of removing chips up to 3 mm thick in one pass. After this, the surface must be leveled with a sander and “smoothed” with a jointer.

CLEANING THE ENDS

When cleaning the ends of the workpieces, the plane is driven in the direction “away from you”, making short pushes with it. In this case, the wood fibers are cut crosswise, which requires somewhat greater effort and the use of a very sharp knife. To avoid chipping at the edge in the direction in which the end of the workpiece is being machined, you can first chamfer this edge. It’s better to first process one half of the end to the middle, and then, turning the workpiece 180°, the second half.

More than during operation, the blades deteriorate from contact with foreign objects when the plane is not used. During breaks in work, the plane should be placed on its side or with the front part of the sole on wooden stand. During long-term storage or when transporting the plane in a tool box, the knife should be placed inside the block.

Electric planers went on sale in the middle of the last century. And since then there have been no fundamental changes in their design. It remains an indispensable tool for carpenters and DIYers to this day. Its main function is wood processing and rebate selection. This article will talk about how to plan with an electric planer.

• labor productivity increases significantly;
• the quality of the result improves;
• no significant effort is required, which allows processing in one go large number material.

When working with a simple plane, you have to make swinging back-and-forth movements, which quickly exhaust you. The operating principle of the electric planer is based on rotational movement blades that move independently, without human effort.

Today on construction market There is a huge assortment of electric planers and it’s easy to get confused in choosing what exactly you need. They can be both household and professional, it all depends on how intensively they will be used.

Electric planer design

The cost of the plane will depend on its main working part - the drum with knives. The number of blades can vary from 1 to 4, but most often they are produced with two blades. It is their quantity and the speed at which the drum rotates that determines the productive power of the instrument, and, accordingly, the price. For home use It is enough to choose a plane whose blade rotation frequency is within 10 thousand/min.

Besides this important element, the electric planer consists of:

• the body itself with a handle;
• pipe for draining or collecting chips;
• start button with system soft start;
• electric motor;
• base of the body - sole;
• closed drive;
• regulator to limit the depth of chip selection.

Tip: more expensive models often have special system, which automatically controls the drum speed depending on the load applied.

The difference between household electric planers and professional ones

This division is quite arbitrary, since for working at home it is best to buy a high-quality plane. But their cost is so high that few can afford to purchase it for single jobs.

• It is best to choose a household electric planer from the middle price category. This will ensure that you purchase a good and functional device for short-term use. It is also worth paying attention to the weight, which should be in the range from 3 to 4 kg and the power of the electric motor - at least 1000 W.
• Advice: when choosing an electric planer, its data sheet indicates two powers. The first is maximum, and the second is effective. For processing hardwood or wood with a large number of knots, the second value should not be less than 400 W.
• The next thing that plays a role when choosing a tool is the engine speed of the electric planer. For housework or private construction, a value of 10,000 rpm will be sufficient.
• If you need to buy a more powerful professional tool, then its power should not be lower than 1.5 kW. Moreover, the weight of such a plane will be almost 10 kg.

• Another parameter is adjusting the planing depth. A household appliance can be set to a depth of 3 mm, while professional ones can plan to a depth of 4 mm. The adjustment step is also important, which varies from 0.1 to 0.25 mm. The more provisions, the best quality you can achieve it with work.

Advice: sometimes manufacturers are cunning and provide deliberately false information. You need to know that the possible depth of planing directly depends on the power of the electric planer. Thus, a tool with low power up to 1000 W and a weight of 3-4 kg cannot be buried by 4 mm.

• A distinctive feature of a professional-level electric planer is the presence of a function to support the number of revolutions when processing complex areas. In cheaper household models it's almost impossible to find her.
• It is very convenient when the kit includes a stand that allows you to permanently mount the electric planer with the blades facing up. All expensive models are equipped with it, in household options occurs infrequently.

The average price for an electric planer for home use is 5-8 thousand rubles.

Choosing an electric planer for work

Appearance

• To allow repair and maintenance, the housing must be dismountable. Typically, it consists of removable cover for the belt drive and the main part covering the engine and sole.

• The tool should fit well in your hands and be balanced in weight. When taking an electric planer, you should pay attention to how convenient it is to press the start button with the same hand that holds the tool. It is better to refuse a model that has to be turned on with the other hand, as this will quickly lead to fatigue during operation.
• There should be a groove on the sole of the plane. Its functions are to remove air during operation and to process chamfers. Even if there is no need to frequently process chamfers, air removal greatly facilitates the work, eliminating the formation air cushion.
• The planing depth regulator can be rotary or made in the form of a button. This does not matter; it will be equally convenient to use.

• The pipe used to drain chips must be equipped with a collection bag and be able to rotate in a convenient direction.

Technical indicators

• Electric motor power. It can be from 600 to 2000 W. The more powerful the tool, the more electricity it consumes, the heavier it weighs and the more expensive it is. All this is justified only for active use.
• Speed. Manufacturers indicate this value at idle speed. So, if the indicated figure is 12,000 rpm, when working with medium-hard wood, the actual rpm will be approximately 8,000.
• Planing width. The width of the sole also depends on the power of the electric planer. There is no need to buy one that is too narrow, otherwise it will be inconvenient to work with wide surfaces. It is optimal to take a tool with a working surface of 90-100 mm and a power of 1000 - 1200 W.
• Planing depth. This has already been written above, but it is worth adding one nuance. It is very rare when homework a depth of even 3 mm is required, so it is enough to choose a model with a possible recess of up to 2 mm.

How to work with an electric planer

• An electric planer is quite serious instrument and working with it requires concentration and increased attention. Therefore, having just bought it, you should not immediately start working; first, it is recommended to study the operating instructions for the electric planer.
• This tool can be used to perform primary processing of wood, removing knots, wane and other rough irregularities. And do the finishing touches to perfection smooth surface. The desired effect achieved by adjusting the blades. So, for the initial work, the knives must be set more strongly, and for the final work, on the contrary, the distance between the sole and the knives must be reduced.
• Before you start working with an electric planer, you need to try to get your hands on rough material; if you fail, you won’t mind ruining it. This will allow you to sufficiently feel the tool and understand and configure the electric planer.
• In the wrong hands, an electric planer can leave scratches instead of a smooth surface. This can be corrected by adjusting the protrusion of the blades; this is done using a hexagon. After several adjustments, the tool will be ready for the main work.

Tip: when adjusting the knives, you need to make sure that they do not touch the body.

• Having started work, wooden product lay it so that it does not move. It is advisable to secure it with something. Ultimately, this will greatly affect the quality of processing. Inattention to this moment can lead to injuries to the master. The knives rotate with high speed and, having reached a knot, they can get caught for a moment and throw the board out of its position.

• Planing begins from the edge of the board, gradually moving towards the opposite end. The instrument is held firmly with both hands. With one hand they hold the main handle with the start button, and with the second handle they help to correct the direction.
• Every time before using an electric planer, you need to check that the blades do not come into contact with the wood being processed. Otherwise it will lead to injury.
• To create a smooth surface, you need to know how to plane correctly. The sole of the instrument is positioned strictly parallel to the board. This can only be achieved by equal force exerted by the hands on both handles of the plane. In addition, work must be carried out with the same movements and at the same speed throughout the entire surface being treated.

Working with an electric planer video

• If the electric planer has a support-stand, then working with it will be significantly different. In this case, it performs the function of a machine while being in a stationary position. The master needs to move the board itself, applying the necessary pressure on it. With this method of work, it is important to securely fasten the support itself to the tabletop using the fasteners that come with the kit. It is convenient to work in this way with an assistant, who should also be warned about the peculiarities of using the tool.

Instructions for disassembling the electric planer

If the tool was purchased new, you cannot disassemble it yourself until the warranty expires, otherwise it will be void. For household electric planers, this period, as a rule, does not exceed 2 years. In case of any breakdown during this period, you should contact the warranty center, which is located in every city.

It’s another matter when the instrument is no longer new or was purchased in “used” condition. To simplify the task of possible repairs, you need to study internal structure electric planer.

Regardless of the model, each plane consists of:

• electric motor;
• shaft with knives;
• planing depth regulator;
• plastic case;
• belting;
• sole.

The operating principle of this power tool, of course, depends on the motor. Upon receipt electrical impulse, the motor redirects rotation to the cutter. The transmission of torque itself occurs through a belt.

The sole of the electric planer is not monolithic, but consists of two parts. Thanks to the movable front part, it becomes possible to adjust the blades, while the rear part remains stationary.

Variety of knives for electric planer

Knives are consumables, which become dull or break over time. Therefore, periodically you have to buy them again. There are two main types of knives - carbide and high-speed blades.

• High speed blades. They belong to the reusable category, as they can be sharpened repeatedly. Which makes them more economically profitable. But their alloy does not allow working with hard rocks wood such as oak or larch.
• Carbide blades. They last longer than their high-speed counterparts, wear out more slowly and are ideal for hardwood. But their main disadvantage is that they cannot be sharpened again. In addition, in case of accidental contact with metal object, for example, if a nail goes unnoticed in the material, there is a high probability that the blade will break. Manufacturers offer a double-sided version of such knives; when one side becomes dull, it can be turned over with the other sharp side.

How to set up an electric planer

• As with repair work With any electrical appliance, the plane must first be de-energized.
• As a rule, replacing knives is required after long-term use, which means that a lot of resin has accumulated on its working surface. You can clean it with white spirit.
• Next, check that the knives are installed correctly. To do this, apply a metal ruler to the edge of the sole and check whether it touches the ends of the blades. If not, then they need to be adjusted first.
• Next, use the special key that came with the tool to slightly loosen the knives on the drum. In this case, the cutting part of the knives must be strictly parallel to the sole and protrude no more than 0.5 mm. But a rounded knife is set twice as large, from 1 mm or more.

Living in an apartment, you may not need a tool such as an electric planer. It's another matter if there is country house, cottage or even your own workshop, in this case it is simply necessary. Thanks to this article you can do the right decision in choosing the desired model electric planer for private use.

An electric planer is an essential tool for anyone who deals with woodworking, and during construction or renovation it can become a an indispensable assistant. In everyday life home handyman, as a rule, a traditional hand plane is sufficient, but in a private yard or summer cottage There is plenty of work with wood. Baths, outbuildings, fences, benches and other furniture - the list goes on and on.

An electric planer will save the master a lot of time and effort and will allow him to achieve good results. Using an electric planer, workpieces are brought to the required dimensions, surfaces are leveled, nicks, burrs and knots are removed, edges are cut, and grooves are selected. A plane, of course, is not capable of “fine” processing of surfaces to perfect smoothness; for this you will need additional tools. But with its main task - rough processing of wood in large volumes - the electric planer, if the operating rules are followed, copes “excellently”.

As when choosing any power tool, when choosing an electric planer, a master should start from the main tasks in which the tool will be most often involved. An important role is played by the power of the tool, which is directly related to its performance. A plane of greater power plans “deeper”, that is, it can remove a thicker layer of wood in one pass. Manual electric planers are produced with a power ranging from 0.5 to 2.2 kW. Above one and a half kilowatts is, in fact, a professional tool for large-scale work. If you plan to use the plane frequently and in large volumes, it makes sense to take a closer look at more powerful models. But, as always, the rule applies: the more powerful the tool, the more it weighs and the higher its price. It will be convenient to work with a low-power plane while suspended. Medium power models weigh between 2.5-4 kg.

Another indicator is the rotation frequency of the drum, that is, the number of revolutions it makes per unit of time. This value is very important to consider when choosing a plane, says the user wind1wind: the higher the speed, the better the quality of the cut. The best option, which you should focus on when choosing – 15000-16000 rpm.

wind1wind:

– The plane does not make a completely flat surface, but a “wave” with very fine steps. To make this waviness invisible, the number of shaft revolutions and the number of knives on the shaft are increased. These two parameters are very important when choosing.

Width planing depends on width cutting edge knives. The most popular knife sizes for household electric planers are 82, 102 and 110 mm. The higher the planing width, the fewer passes will need to be made to completely process the surface.

To simply process a board to a smooth surface, all you need is a plane with knives narrower than the board. But if the width of the knife does not cover the width of the material being processed, you will not get a perfectly flat surface - even a minimal “step” will remain.

Depth cut is essentially the thickness of the layer of wood removed by a plane in one pass. In household planes it usually does not exceed 2 mm, in more powerful ones - 4 mm. Most models have depth adjustment.

IN electric planes are used removable knives made of hard alloys and hardened steel. Most of them, even carbide ones, can be sharpened and sharpened, but narrow knives cannot be sharpened: their design does not imply sharpening. Some models of planes are supplied with a sharpening device. You can make it yourself.

Olegych:

– To straighten knives you need thicker glass and a couple of sheets of good quality sandpaper. We soak the paper in water, place it on the glass - and off we go! But this is exclusively for straightening, knives “stuck” on nails and bricks - only for use on the machine.

Sole The plane in contact with the surface being treated must be level and smooth. U modern models planes have barely noticeable grooves on its surface - grooves that prevent the formation of an “air cushion” between the sole and the material during operation and thus ensure uniform cutting. The grooves on the front of the sole are designed for chamfering the corners of parts. When choosing a plane, you should pay attention to the quality of the surface of the sole. close attention, especially when it comes to inexpensive models.

– A defect that occurs in non-brand planes is the so-called “drunk sole”. We check this way: set the removal adjustment to zero, move the knife to the upper position. We apply a ruler along the length of the plane, alternately on both sides, so that it lies on both platforms at once. There should be no gaps between the ruler and the sole.

When choosing an electric planer, it is important to hold the tool in your hands, to understand whether the tool’s handles, start and adjustment buttons are conveniently located for you, and whether its weight suits you. Modern electric planers have many additional options and parameters that facilitate and improve the work process. But all of them, of course, increase the cost of the instrument. Among the most popular options are directional ejection of chips with the ability to connect a bag for collecting them or a vacuum cleaner, a “soft start” system and speed control. Here everything depends on the requests of the master and his financial capabilities.

A useful accessory is a universal ruler that allows you to evenly process a surface wider than the planing width of the plane in one pass, as well as planing at an angle of 90 degrees to the supporting surface. Often such rulers are included with the plane, but if not, it makes sense to purchase it separately.

The basic work performed by an electric planer is easy for a beginner to master, and if you follow simple rules, then the tool will serve for a long time and efficiently. Planing should begin only after the drum of the turned-on plane has reached full speed. And you shouldn’t immediately set the maximum planing depth: it’s better to remove a millimeter twice than to try to remove two millimeters at a time. There is no need to put any force on the tool: it should only be guided, and the plane should plan itself, “like clockwork.” And for this, the knives must be sharp.

It is not so easy for craftsmen starting to work with an electric planer to determine when sharpening or replacing the knife is necessary. Forum member Nomad advises using visual methods. If the knives are sharp, the surface will be smooth. If they are dull, rags of wood form on it, since the knives no longer cut, but tear it. Another sign of dull knives is brown high temperature wood, especially in the area of ​​knots.

Aleksej2000:

– Even with dull knives, the plane begins to vibrate on the knots, as if bouncing up and down: the knife does not cut and is pushed away from the dense material. The best thing is to install new knives and try how they handle. And then the feeling of sharp knives will be familiar. And these same sharp knives try walking on a knot to see the difference.

A common problem that novice craftsmen face is the displacement of the material being processed under the plane. Although a plane is one of the safest tools, there is still a risk of injury when holding wood with your hand. The problem can be solved by making a simple board clamp and limiting the lateral displacement of the plane - as a forum user advises wind1wind:

– Along the width of the sole of the plane on the workbench, attach two blocks no less long than the boards being processed. The sole of the plane should pass between them with a minimum gap, but without difficulty. A piece of slats is attached to one end, against which the board will rest. Additionally, the board between the blocks can be fixed with a wooden wedge.

For this design to work as it should, the end stop made of slats and wedges should be slightly thinner than the board being planed, a forum member advises. The blocks should, on the contrary, be thicker than the board being processed by about 1/2-2/3 of the thickness of the plane sole. Then they will prevent the lateral movement of the plane during operation. On the other hand, the plane will not touch the blocks with protruding parts of its structure (belt casing, engine).

Members of the forum discuss the features of choosing electric planers, the advantages and disadvantages of specific models in. you can read the recommendations and get advice about proper operation electric planer. Members of the forum exchange experience in replacing, sharpening and straightening knives for planes. About the repair of planes, milling cutters and circular saws look for information. This video explains the basics of working with an electric planer.