How to prepare a board made in Eagle for production

Preparation for production consists of 2 stages: technology constraint check (DRC) and generation of Gerber files

DRC

Each PCB manufacturer has technological restrictions on the minimum width of tracks, gaps between tracks, hole diameters, etc. If the board does not meet these restrictions, the manufacturer refuses to accept the board for production.

When creating a PCB file, the default technology constraints are set from the default.dru file in the dru directory. Typically, these limits do not match those of real manufacturers, so they need to be changed. It is possible to set the restrictions just before generating the Gerber files, but it is better to do this immediately after generating the board file. To set restrictions, press the DRC button

Gaps

Go to the Clearance tab, where the gaps between the conductors are set. We see 2 sections: Different signals And Same signals. Different signals- determines the gaps between elements belonging to different signals. Same signals- determines the gaps between elements belonging to the same signal. As you move between input fields, the picture changes to show the meaning of the entered value. Dimensions can be specified in millimeters (mm) or thousandths of an inch (mil, 0.0254 mm).

Distances

On the Distance tab, the minimum distances between the copper and the edge of the board are determined ( Copper/Dimension) and between the edges of the holes ( Drill/Hole)

Minimum dimensions

On the Sizes tab for double-sided boards, 2 parameters make sense: Minimum Width- minimum conductor width and Minimum Drill- minimum hole diameter.

Belts

On the Restring tab, you set the sizes of the bands around vias and contact pads of lead components. The width of the belt is set as a percentage of the hole diameter, and you can set a limit on the minimum and maximum width. For double-sided boards the parameters make sense Pads/Top, Pads/Bottom(pads on the top and bottom layer) and Vias/Outer(vias).

Masks

On the Masks tab, you set the gaps from the edge of the pad to the solder mask ( Stop) And solder paste (Cream). Clearances are set as a percentage of the smaller pad size, and you can set a limit on the minimum and maximum clearance. If the board manufacturer does not specify special requirements, you can leave the default values ​​on this tab.

Parameter Limit defines the minimum diameter of the via that will not be covered by the mask. For example, if you specify 0.6mm, then vias with a diameter of 0.6mm or less will be covered by a mask.

Running a scan

After setting the restrictions, go to the tab File. You can save settings to a file by clicking the button Save As.... In the future, you can quickly download settings for other boards ( Load...).

At the touch of a button Apply established technology limitations apply to the PCB file. It affects layers tStop, bStop, tCream, bCream. Vias and pin pads will also be resized to meet the constraints specified in the tab Restring.

Pressing a button Check starts the constraint monitoring process. If the board meets all restrictions, a message will appear in the program status line No errors. If the board does not pass inspection, a window appears DRC Errors

The window contains a list of DRC errors, indicating the error type and layer. When you double-click on a line, the area of ​​the board with the error will be shown in the center of the main window. Error types:

gap too small

hole diameter too small

intersection of tracks with different signals

foil too close to the edge of the board

After correcting the errors, you need to run the control again and repeat this procedure until all errors are eliminated. The board is now ready to output to Gerber files.

Generating Gerber files

From the menu File choose CAM Processor. A window will appear CAM Processor.

The set of file generation parameters is called a task. The task consists of several sections. The section defines the output parameters of one file. By default, the Eagle distribution contains the task gerb274x.cam, but it has 2 drawbacks. Firstly, the lower layers are displayed in a mirror image, and secondly, the drilling file is not output (to generate the drilling, you will need to perform another task). Therefore, let's consider creating a task from scratch.

We need to create 7 files: board borders, copper on top and bottom, silkscreen on top, solder mask on top and bottom, and drill bit.

Let's start with the boundaries of the board. In the field Section enter the section name. Checking what's in the group Style installed only pos. Coord, Optimize And Fill pads. From the list Device choose GERBER_RS274X. In the input field File The name of the output file is entered. It is convenient to place the files in a separate directory, so in this field we will enter %P/gerber/%N.Edge.grb . This means the directory where the board source file is located, the subdirectory gerber, original board file name (no extension .brd) with added at the end .Edge.grb. Please note that subdirectories are not created automatically, so you will need to create a subdirectory before generating files gerber in the project directory. In the fields Offset enter 0. In the list of layers, select only the layer Dimension. This completes the creation of the section.

To create a new section, click Add. appears in the window new tab. We set the section parameters as described above, repeat the process for all sections. Of course, each section must have its own set of layers:

copper on top - Top, Pads, Vias

copper bottom - Bottom, Pads, Vias

silkscreen printing on top - tPlace, tDocu, tNames

mask on top - tStop

mask from below - bStop

drilling - Drill, Holes

and the file name, for example:

copper on top - %P/gerber/%N.TopCopper.grb

copper bottom - %P/gerber/%N.BottomCopper.grb

silkscreen printing on top - %P/gerber/%N.TopSilk.grb

mask on top - %P/gerber/%N.TopMask.grb

bottom mask - %P/gerber/%N.BottomMask.grb

drilling - %P/gerber/%N.Drill.xln

For a drill file, the output device ( Device) should be EXCELLON, not GERBER_RS274X

It should be kept in mind that some board manufacturers only accept files with names in 8.3 format, that is, no more than 8 characters in the file name, no more than 3 characters in the extension. This should be taken into account when specifying file names.

We get the following:

Then open the board file ( File => Open => Board). Make sure the board file has been saved! Click Process Job- and we get a set of files that can be sent to the board manufacturer. Please note - in addition to the actual Gerber files, information files will also be generated (with extensions .gpi or .dri) - you do not need to send them.

You can also display files only from individual sections by selecting the desired tab and clicking Process Section.

Before sending the files to the board manufacturer, it is useful to preview what you have produced using a Gerber viewer. For example, ViewMate for Windows or for Linux. It can also be useful to save the board as a PDF (in the board editor File->Print->PDF button) and send this file to the manufacturer along with the gerberas. Because they are people too, this will help them not make mistakes.

Technological operations that must be performed when working with SPF-VShch photoresist

1. Surface preparation.
a) cleaning with polished powder (“Marshalit”), size M-40, washing with water
b) pickling with a 10% sulfuric acid solution (10-20 sec), rinsing with water
c) drying at T=80-90 gr.C.
d) check - if within 30 seconds. a continuous film remains on the surface - the substrate is ready for use,
if not, repeat all over again.

2. Application of photoresist.
Photoresist is applied using a laminator with Tshaft = 80 g.C. (see instructions for using the laminator).
For this purpose, the hot substrate (after the drying cabinet) simultaneously with the film from the SPF roll is directed into the gap between the shafts, and the polyethylene (matte) film should be directed towards the copper side of the surface. After pressing the film to the substrate, the movement of the shafts begins, while polyethylene film is removed, and the photoresist layer is rolled onto the substrate. The lavsan protective film remains on top. After this, the SPF film is cut on all sides to the size of the substrate and kept at room temperature for 30 minutes. Exposure for 30 minutes to 2 days in the dark at room temperature is allowed.

3. Exposure.
Exposure through a photomask is carried out using SKTSI or I-1 installations with UV lamps such as DRKT-3000 or LUF-30 with a vacuum vacuum of 0.7-0.9 kg/cm2. The exposure time (to obtain a picture) is regulated by the installation itself and is selected experimentally. The template must be pressed well to the substrate! After exposure, the workpiece is kept for 30 minutes (up to 2 hours is allowed).

4. Manifestation.
After exposure, the drawing is developed. For this purpose, the top protective layer, the lavsan film, is removed from the surface of the substrate. After this, the workpiece is dipped into a solution of soda ash (2%) at T = 35 g.C. After 10 seconds, begin the process of removing the unexposed part of the photoresist using a foam rubber swab. The time of manifestation is selected experimentally.
Then the substrate is removed from the developer, washed with water, pickled (10 sec.) with a 10% solution of H2SO4 (sulfuric acid), again with water and dried in a cabinet at T = 60 degrees C.
The resulting pattern should not peel off.

5. The resulting drawing.
The resulting pattern (photoresist layer) is resistant to etching in:
- ferric chloride
- hydrochloric acid
- copper sulfate
- aqua regia (after additional tanning)
and other solutions

6. Shelf life of SPF-VShch photoresist.
The shelf life of SPF-VShch is 12 months. Storage is carried out in a dark place at a temperature of 5 to 25 degrees. C. in an upright position, wrapped in black paper.

A printed circuit board is a dielectric plate on the surface of which conductive tracks are applied and places are prepared for mounting electronic components. Electrical radio components are usually installed on the board using soldering.

PCB device

The electrically conductive tracks of the board are made of foil. The thickness of the conductors is, as a rule, 18 or 35 microns, less often 70, 105, 140 microns. The board has holes and contact pads for mounting radio elements.

Separate holes are used to connect conductors located on different sides fees. On external sides specially applied to the board protective coating and labeling.

Stages of creating a printed circuit board

In amateur radio practice, one often has to deal with the development, creation and manufacture of various electronic devices. Moreover, any device can be built on a printed circuit board or a regular board with surface mounting. The PCB works much better, is more reliable and looks more attractive. Creating it involves performing a number of operations:

Preparation of the layout;

Drawing on textolite;

Etching;

Tinning;

Installation of radio elements.

Manufacturing printed circuit boards is a complex, labor-intensive, and interesting process.

Development and production of a layout

The board drawing can be done manually or on a computer using one of the special programs.

It is best to draw the board manually on recorder paper on a 1:1 scale. Graph paper is also suitable. Installed electronic components must be displayed in mirror image. The tracks on one side of the board are shown as solid lines, and on the other side as dotted lines. The dots mark the places where radio elements are attached. Soldering areas are drawn around these places. All drawings are usually made using a drawing board. Typically done manually simple drawings, more complex circuit board designs are developed on a computer in special applications.

Most often they use a simple program called Sprint Layout. Only a laser printer is suitable for printing. The paper should be glossy. The main thing is that the toner does not eat into it, but remains on top. The printer must be adjusted so that the toner thickness of the drawing is maximum.

Industrial production of printed circuit boards begins with input schematic diagram device into a computer-aided design system, which creates a drawing of the future board.

Preparing the workpiece and drilling holes

First of all, you need to cut a piece of PCB with the given dimensions. File the edges. Attach the drawing to the board. Prepare the tool for drilling. Drill directly according to the drawing. The drill bit must be of good quality and match the diameter of the smallest hole. If possible, you should use a drilling machine.

Having done everything required holes, remove the drawing and drill each hole to the specified diameter. Clean the surface of the board with fine sandpaper. This is necessary to eliminate burrs and improve the adhesion of paint to the board. To remove traces of grease, treat the board with alcohol.

Drawing on fiberglass laminate

The board drawing can be applied to the PCB manually or using one of many technologies. Laser ironing technology is the most popular.

Manual drawing begins by marking the mounting areas around the holes. They are applied using a drawing pen or a match. The holes are connected with tracks in accordance with the drawing. It is better to draw with nitro paint in which rosin is dissolved. This solution provides strong adhesion to the board and good resistance to high-temperature etching. Asphalt bitumen varnish can be used as paint.

Manufacturing printed circuit boards using laser-iron technology gives good results. It is important to perform all operations correctly and carefully. The degreased board must be placed on flat surface copper up. Carefully place the design on top with the toner facing down. Additionally, add a few more sheets of paper. Iron the resulting structure with a hot iron for about 30-40 seconds. When exposed to temperature, the toner should change from a solid to a viscous state, but not to a liquid. Let the board cool and place it in warm water for a few minutes.

The paper will become limp and tear off easily. You should carefully examine the resulting drawing. The absence of separate tracks indicates that the iron temperature is insufficient; wide tracks are obtained when the iron is too hot or the board is heated for an excessively long time.

Small defects can be corrected with a marker, paint or nail polish. If you don’t like the workpiece, then you need to wash everything off with a solvent, clean it with sandpaper and repeat the process again.

Etching

A grease-free printed circuit board is placed in a plastic container with the solution. At home, ferric chloride is usually used as a solution. The bath with it needs to be rocked periodically. After 25-30 minutes, the copper will completely dissolve. Etching can be accelerated by using a heated ferric chloride solution. At the end of the process, the printed circuit board is removed from the bath and thoroughly washed with water. Then the paint is removed from the conductive paths.

Tinning

There are many methods of tinning. We have a prepared printed circuit board. At home, as a rule, there are no special devices and alloys. Therefore, they use a simple, reliable method. The board is coated with flux and tinned with a soldering iron with regular solder using copper braiding.

Installation of radio elements

At the final stage, the radio components are inserted one by one into the places intended for them and soldered. Before soldering, the legs of the parts must be treated with flux and, if necessary, shortened.

The soldering iron should be used carefully: if there is excess heat, the copper foil may begin to peel off and the printed circuit board will be damaged. Remove any remaining rosin with alcohol or acetone. The finished board can be varnished.

Industrial development

Develop and manufacture at home printed circuit board impossible for high-end equipment. For example, the printed circuit board of an amplifier for High-End equipment is multilayer, using a coating copper conductors gold and palladium, conductive tracks have different thicknesses, etc. Achieving this level of technology is not easy even with industrial enterprise. Therefore, in some cases it is advisable to purchase a ready-made high-quality board or place an order to carry out work according to your own scheme. Currently, the production of printed circuit boards is established at many domestic enterprises and abroad.

In this post, I will analyze popular methods for creating printed circuit boards yourself at home: LUT, photoresist, hand drawing. And also what programs are best to draw PP.

Once upon a time, electronic devices were mounted using surface mounting. Nowadays, only tube audio amplifiers are assembled this way. Printed editing is in widespread use, which has long turned into a real industry with its own tricks, features and technologies. And there are a lot of tricks there. Especially when creating PCBs for high-frequency devices. (I think I’ll do a review of the literature and features of designing the location of PP conductors someday)

The general principle of creating printed circuit boards (PCBs) is to apply tracks on a surface made of non-conducting material that conduct this current. The tracks connect the radio components according to the required circuit. The result is an electronic device that can be shaken, carried, and sometimes even wet without fear of damaging it.

IN general outline The technology for creating a printed circuit board at home consists of several steps:

1. Select a suitable foil fiberglass laminate. Why textolite? It's easier to get. Yes, and it turns out cheaper. Often this is enough for an amateur device.
2. Apply a printed circuit board design to the PCB
3. Bleed off excess foil. Those. remove excess foil from areas of the board that do not have a conductor pattern.
4. Drill holes for component leads. If you need to drill holes for components with leads. This is obviously not required for chip components.
5. Tin the current-carrying paths
6. Apply solder mask. Optional if you want to make your board look closer to the factory ones.

Another option is to simply order the board from the factory. Nowadays, many companies provide printed circuit board production services. You will receive an excellent factory printed circuit board. They will differ from amateur ones not only in the presence of a solder mask, but also in many other parameters. For example, if you have a double-sided PCB, then the board will not have metallization of the holes. You can choose the solder mask color, etc. There are a lot of advantages, just have time to slobber on the money!

Step 0

Before making a PCB, it must be drawn somewhere. You can draw it the old fashioned way on graph paper and then transfer the drawing to the workpiece. Or you can use one of the many programs for creating printed circuit boards. These programs are called the general word CAD (CAD). Some of the options available to a radio amateur include DeepTrace (free version), Sprint Layout, Eagle (you can, of course, also find specialized ones like Altium Designer)

Using these programs, you can not only draw a PCB, but also prepare it for production in a factory. What if you want to order a dozen scarves? And if you don’t want to, then it’s convenient to print such a PP and make it yourself using LUT or photoresist. But more on that below.

Step 1

So, the workpiece for PP can be divided into two parts: a non-conductive base and a conductive coating.

There are different blanks for PP, but most often they differ in the material of the non-conductive layer. You can find such a substrate made of getinax, fiberglass, a flexible base made of polymers, compositions of cellulose paper and fiberglass with epoxy resin, and even a metal base. All these materials spill over with their physical and mechanical properties. And in production, the material for PP is selected based on economic considerations and technical conditions.

For home PP, I recommend foil fiberglass. Easy to get and reasonably priced. Getinaks are probably cheaper, but personally I can’t stand them. If you've disassembled at least one mass-produced Chinese device, you've probably seen what the PCBs are made of? They are brittle and stink when soldered. Let the Chinese smell it.

Depending on the device being assembled and its operating conditions, you can choose the appropriate PCB: single-sided, double-sided, with different foil thicknesses (18 microns, 35 microns, etc., etc.

Step 2

To apply a PP pattern to a foil base, radio amateurs have developed many methods. Among them are the two most popular at the present time: LUT and photoresist. LUT is an abbreviation for laser ironing technology. As the name suggests, you will need a laser printer, an iron and glossy photo paper.

LUT

A mirrored image is printed onto photographic paper. Then it is applied to foil PCB. And it warms up well with an iron. When exposed to heat, toner from glossy photo paper sticks to the copper foil. After warming up, the board is soaked in water and the paper is carefully removed.

The photo above shows the board after etching. The black color of the current paths is due to the fact that they are still covered with hardened toner from the printer.

Photoresist

This is a more complex technology. But with its help you can get a better result: without mordants, thinner tracks, etc. The process is similar to LUT, but the PP design is printed on transparent film. This creates a template that can be used over and over again. Then a “photoresist” is applied to the textolite - an ultraviolet-sensitive film or liquid (photoresist can be different).

Then a photomask with a PP pattern is firmly fixed on top of the photoresist and then this sandwich is irradiated with an ultraviolet lamp for a clearly measured time. It must be said that the PP pattern on the photomask is printed inverted: the tracks are transparent and the voids are dark. This is done so that when the photoresist is exposed to light, the areas of the photoresist not covered by the template react to ultraviolet radiation and become insoluble.

After exposure (or exposure, as the experts call it), the board “develops” - the exposed areas become dark, the unexposed areas become light, since the photoresist there has simply dissolved in the developer (usual soda ash). Then the board is etched in a solution, and then the photoresist is removed, for example, with acetone.

Types of photoresist

There are several types of photoresist in nature: liquid, self-adhesive film, positive, negative. What is the difference and how to choose the right one? In my opinion, there is not much difference in amateur use. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll use that type. I would highlight only two main criteria: price and how convenient it is for me personally to use this or that photoresist.

Step 3

Etching of a PP blank with a printed pattern. There are many ways to dissolve the unprotected part of the PP foil: etching in ammonium persulfate, ferric chloride, . I like last method: fast, clean, cheap.

We place the workpiece in the etching solution, wait 10 minutes, remove it, wash it, clean the tracks on the board and move on to the next stage.

Step 4

The board can be tinned with either Rose or Wood alloy, or simply cover the tracks with flux and go over them with a soldering iron and solder. Rose and Wood alloys are multicomponent low-melting alloys. And Wood's alloy also contains cadmium. So, at home, such work should be carried out under a hood with a filter. It is ideal to have a simple smoke extractor. You want to live happily ever after? :=)

Step 6

I will skip the fifth step, everything is clear there. But applying a solder mask is quite an interesting and not the easiest stage. So let's study it in more detail.

A solder mask is used in the process of creating a PCB in order to protect the board tracks from oxidation, moisture, fluxes when installing components, and also to facilitate the installation itself. Especially when SMD components are used.

Usually, to protect PP tracks without a mask from chemicals. and to avoid exposure, seasoned radio amateurs cover such tracks with a layer of solder. After tinning, such a board often does not look very nice. But what’s worse is that during the tinning process you can overheat the tracks or hang “snot” between them. In the first case, the conductor will fall off, and in the second, such unexpected “snot” will have to be removed in order to eliminate the short circuit. Another disadvantage is the increase in capacitance between such conductors.

First of all: solder mask is quite toxic. All work should be carried out in a well-ventilated area (preferably under a hood), and avoid getting the mask on the skin, mucous membranes and eyes.

I can’t say that the process of applying the mask is quite complicated, but it still requires a large number of steps. After thinking about it, I decided that I would give a link to more or less detailed description applying a solder mask, since there is currently no way to demonstrate the process yourself.

Get creative, guys, it's interesting =) Creating PP in our time is akin to not just a craft, but an entire art!

On the pages of the site there has already been talk about the so-called “pencil technology” for manufacturing printed circuit boards. The method is simple and accessible - a correction pencil can be bought in almost any store that sells stationery. But there are also limitations. Those who tried to draw a printed circuit board drawing using a correction pencil noticed that the minimum width of the resulting track is unlikely to be less than 1.5-2.5 millimeters.

This circumstance imposes restrictions on the manufacture of printed circuit boards that have thin tracks and a small distance between them. It is known that the pitch between the pins of microcircuits made in a surface-mount package is very small. Therefore, if you need to make a printed circuit board with thin tracks and a small distance between them, then the “pencil” technology will not work. It is also worth noting that drawing a picture with a correction pencil is not very convenient, the paths are not always smooth, and the copper patches for sealing the leads of radio components are not very neat. Therefore, you have to adjust the printed circuit board design with a sharp razor blade or scalpel.

A way out of this situation may be to use a PCB marker, which is perfect for applying an etch-resistant layer. Unknowingly, you can purchase a marker for writing inscriptions and marks on CDs/DVDs. Such a marker is not suitable for the manufacture of printed circuit boards - a ferric chloride solution corrodes the pattern of such a marker, and the copper traces are almost completely etched. But, despite this, there are markers on sale that are suitable not only for writing inscriptions and marks on various materials(CD/DVD discs, plastic, wire insulation), but also for making an etching-resistant protective layer.

In practice, a marker for printed circuit boards was used Edding 792. It allows you to draw lines with a width of 0.8-1 mm. This is enough to produce a large number of printed circuit boards for homemade electronic devices. As it turned out, this marker copes with the task perfectly. The printed circuit board turned out pretty good, although it was drawn in a hurry. Take a look.

PCB (made with Edding 792 marker)

By the way, the Edding 792 marker can also be used to correct errors and blots that occurred when transferring a printed circuit board design to a workpiece using the LUT (laser ironing technology) method. This happens, especially if the printed circuit board is quite large and has a complex pattern. This is very convenient, since there is no need to completely transfer the entire design onto the workpiece again.

If you can't find an Edding 792 marker, it will do Edding 791, Edding 780. They can also be used to draw printed circuit boards.

Surely, novice electronics enthusiasts are interested in the technological process of making a printed circuit board using a marker, so the next story will be about this.

The entire process of manufacturing a printed circuit board is similar to that described in the article “Making a printed circuit board using the “pencil” method.” Here's a short algorithm:

A few "subtleties".

About drilling holes.

There is an opinion that you need to drill holes in the printed circuit board after etching. As you can see, in the above algorithm, holes are drilled before etching the printed circuit board in the solution. In principle, you can drill either before etching the printed circuit board or after. From a technological point of view, there are no restrictions. But, it is worth considering that the quality of drilling directly depends on the tool used to drill holes.

If the drilling machine develops good speed and there are high-quality drills available, then you can drill after etching - the result will be good. But, if you drill holes in the board with a homemade mini-drill based on a weak motor with poor alignment, you can easily tear off the copper spots for the terminals.

Also, a lot depends on the quality of PCB, getinax or fiberglass. Therefore, in the above algorithm, drilling holes occurs before etching the printed circuit board. With this algorithm, the copper edges remaining after drilling can be easily removed with sandpaper and at the same time clean the copper surface from contaminants, if any. As is known, the contaminated surface of copper foil is poorly etched in solution.

How to dissolve the protective layer of the marker?

After etching in a solution, the protective layer, which was applied with an Edding 792 marker, can be easily removed with a solvent. In fact, white spirit was used. It stinks, of course, disgustingly, but it washes off the protective layer with a bang. There are no varnish residues left.

Preparing a printed circuit board for tinning copper tracks.

After the protective layer is removed, you can for a few seconds throw the printed circuit board blank into the solution again. At the same time, the surface of the copper tracks will be slightly etched and become bright pink. Such copper is better covered with solder during subsequent tinning of the tracks, since there are no oxides or small contaminants on its surface. True, tinning of the tracks must be done immediately, otherwise the copper in the open air will again be covered with a layer of oxide.

Finished device after assembly

This page is a guide to producing high-quality printed circuit boards (PCBs) quickly and efficiently, especially for professional PCB production layouts. Unlike most other guides, the emphasis is on quality, speed and minimal cost of materials.

Using the methods described on this page, you can make a single-sided and double-sided board of fairly good quality, suitable for surface mounting with a 40-50 elements per inch pitch and a 0.5 mm hole pitch.

The technique described here is a summary of experience collected over 20 years of experimentation in this field. If you follow the methodology described here exactly, you will be able to obtain excellent quality PP every time. Of course, you can experiment, but remember that careless actions can lead to a significant decrease in quality.

Only photolithographic methods for forming the PCB topology are presented here - other methods, such as transfer, printing on copper, etc., which are not suitable for quick and effective use, are not considered.

Drilling

If you are using FR-4 as the base material, you will need tungsten carbide coated drills, high speed steels wear out very quickly, although steel can be used for drilling single holes large diameter(more than 2 mm), because drills coated with tungsten carbide of this diameter are too expensive. When drilling holes with a diameter less than 1 mm, it is better to use vertical machine, otherwise your drill bits will break quickly. The top-down movement is the most optimal from the point of view of the load on the tool. Carbide drills are made with a hard shank (that is, the drill fits exactly to the diameter of the hole), or with a thick (sometimes called "turbo") shank that has a standard size (usually 3.5 mm).

When drilling with carbide-coated drills, it is important to firmly secure the PP, because The drill may pull out a fragment of the board when moving upward.

Drills of small diameters are usually inserted either into collet various sizes, or in three-jaw chuck - sometimes a 3-jaw chuck is the best option. For precise fixation, however, this fastening is not suitable, and the small size of the drill (less than 1 mm) quickly makes grooves in the clamps, ensuring good fixation. Therefore, for drills with a diameter less than 1 mm, it is better to use a collet chuck. To be on the safe side, purchase an extra set containing spare collets for each size. Some inexpensive drills are made with plastic collets - throw them away and buy metal ones.

To obtain acceptable accuracy, it is necessary to properly organize workplace, i.e., firstly, to provide illumination of the board when drilling. To do this, you can use a 12 V halogen lamp (or 9 V to reduce the brightness) and attach it to a tripod to be able to choose a position (illuminate the right side). Secondly, raise the work surface about 6" above the height of the table, for better visual control of the process. It would be a good idea to remove dust (you can use a regular vacuum cleaner), but this is not necessary - accidental closing of the circuit by a dust particle is a myth. It should be noted that that the dust from fiberglass generated during drilling is very caustic and, if it comes into contact with the skin, causes skin irritation. And, finally, it is very convenient to use the foot switch of the drilling machine when working, especially when frequently replacing drills.

Typical hole sizes:
Via holes - 0.8 mm or less
· Integrated circuit, resistors, etc. - 0.8 mm.
· Large diodes (1N4001) - 1.0 mm;
· Contact blocks, trimmers - from 1.2 to 1.5 mm;

Try to avoid holes with a diameter of less than 0.8 mm. Always keep at least two spare 0.8 mm drill bits as... they always break down exactly at the moment when you urgently need to place an order. Drills 1 mm and larger are much more reliable, although it would be nice to have spare ones for them. When you need to make two identical boards, you can drill them simultaneously to save time. In this case, it is necessary to very carefully drill holes in the center of the contact pad near each corner of the PCB, and for large boards - holes located close to the center. So, lay the boards on top of each other and drill 0.8mm holes in two opposite corners, then use the pins as pegs to secure the boards to each other.

cutting

If you produce PP in series, you will need guillotine shears for cutting (they cost about 150 USD). Regular saws become dull quickly, with the exception of carbide-coated saws, and dust from sawing can cause skin irritation. The saw can accidentally damage protective film and destroy the conductors on the finished board. If you want to use guillotine shears, be very careful when cutting the board, remember that the blade is very sharp.

If you need to cut a board along a complex contour, then this can be done either by drilling a lot small holes and breaking off the PP along the resulting perforations, either using a jigsaw or a small hacksaw, but be prepared to change the blade often. In practice, you can make an angled cut with guillotine shears, but be very careful.

Through metallization

When you make a double-sided board, there is the problem of combining the elements on the top side of the board. Some components (resistor, surface integrated circuits) are much easier to solder than others (eg a capacitor with pins), so the thought arises: make surface connection of only the "light" components. And for DIP components, use pins, and it is preferable to use a model with a thick pin rather than a connector.

Lift the DIP component slightly above the surface of the board and solder a couple of pins on the solder side, making a small cap at the end. Then you need to solder the required components to the top side using repeated heat, and when soldering, wait until the solder fills the space around the pin (see figure). For boards with very dense components, the layout must be carefully thought out to facilitate DIP soldering. After you have finished assembling the board, you need to perform two-way quality control of the installation.

For via holes, quick-mount connecting pins with a diameter of 0.8 mm are used (see figure).

This is the most affordable way electrical connection. You just need to accurately insert the end of the device into the hole all the way, repeat with the other holes. If you need to do through-plating, for example to connect inaccessible elements, or for DIP components (link pins), you will need the "Copperset" system. . This setup is very convenient, but expensive ($350). It uses "plate bars" (see picture), which consist of a bar of solder with a copper sleeve plated on the outside.The sleeve has serifs cut at intervals of 1.6 mm, corresponding to the thickness of the board. The bar is inserted into the hole using a special applicator. The hole is then punched with a core, which causes the metallized bushing to skew and also pushes the bushing out of the hole. The pads are soldered on each side of the board to attach the sleeve to the pads, then the solder is removed along with the braid.

Fortunately, this system can be used to plate standard 0.8mm holes without purchasing a complete kit. As an applicator, you can use any automatic pencil with a diameter of 0.8 mm, the model of which has a tip similar to that shown in the figure, which works much better than a real applicator. Metallization of the holes must be done before installation, while the surface of the board is completely flat. The holes must be drilled with a diameter of 0.85 mm, because after metallization their diameters decrease.

Note that if your program drew the pads the same size as the drill size, the holes may extend beyond them, causing the board to malfunction. Ideally, the contact pad extends beyond the hole by 0.5 mm.

Metallization of holes based on graphite

The second option for obtaining conductivity through holes is metallization with graphite, followed by galvanic deposition of copper. After drilling, the surface of the board is coated with an aerosol solution containing fine particles of graphite, which is then pressed into the holes with a squeegee (scraper or spatula). You can use CRAMOLIN "GRAPHITE" aerosol. This aerosol is widely used in electroplating and other electroplating processes, as well as in the production of conductive coatings in radio electronics. If the base is a highly volatile substance, then you must immediately shake the board in a direction perpendicular to the plane of the board, so that excess paste is removed from the holes before the base evaporates. Excess graphite from the surface is removed with a solvent or mechanically by grinding. It should be noted that the size of the resulting hole may be 0.2 mm smaller than the original diameter. Clogged holes can be cleaned with a needle or otherwise. In addition to aerosols, colloidal solutions of graphite can be used. Next, copper is deposited onto the conductive cylindrical surfaces of the holes.

The galvanic deposition process is well established and widely described in the literature. The installation for this operation is a container filled with an electrolyte solution (saturated solution of Cu 2 SO 4 + 10% solution of H 2 SO 4), into which copper electrodes and the workpiece are lowered. A potential difference is created between the electrodes and the workpiece, which should provide a current density of no more than 3 amperes per square decimeter of the workpiece surface. High current density makes it possible to achieve high copper deposition rates. So, to deposit onto a workpiece 1.5 mm thick, it is necessary to deposit up to 25 microns of copper; at this density, this process takes just over half an hour. To intensify the process, various additives can be added to the electrolyte solution, and the liquid can be subjected to mechanical stirring, boronation, etc. If copper is unevenly applied to the surface, the workpiece can be ground. The graphite metallization process is usually used in subtractive technology, i.e. before applying photoresist.

Any paste remaining before applying copper reduces the free volume of the hole and gives the hole an irregular shape, which complicates further installation of components. A more reliable method of removing residual conductive paste is vacuuming or blowing with excess pressure.

Formation of a photomask

You need to produce a positive (i.e. black = copper) translucent photomask film. You will never make a really good PP without a quality photo template, so this operation is of great importance. It is very important to get a clear andextremely opaquePCB topology image.

Today and in the future, a photomask will be formed using computer programs families or graphics packages suitable for this purpose. In this paper we will not discuss the advantages software Let's just say that you can use any software, but it is absolutely necessary that the program prints the holes located in the center of the pad, used as markers during the subsequent drilling operation. It is almost impossible to manually drill holes without these guidelines. If you want to use CAD general purpose or graphics packages, then in the program settings, specify the contact pads either as an object containing a black filled area with a white concentric circle of smaller diameter on its surface, or as an unfilled circle, having previously set a larger line thickness (i.e., a black ring).

Once we have determined the location of the pads and line types, we set the recommended minimum dimensions:
- drilling diameter - (1 mil = 1/1000 inch) 0.8 mm You can make a PCB with a smaller diameter of through holes, but it will be much more difficult.
- Pads for normal components and DIL LCS: 65 mil round or square pads with 0.8mm hole diameter.
- line width - 12.5 mils, if you need, you can get 10 mils.
- the space between the centers of tracks with a width of 12.5 mils is 25 mils (possibly a little less if the printer model allows).

It is necessary to take care of the correct diagonal connection of the tracks at corner cuts(grid - 25 mil, track width - 12.5 mil).

The photomask must be printed in such a way that when exposed, the side on which the ink is applied is turned towards the surface of the PCB, to ensure a minimum gap between the image and the PCB. In practice, this means that the top side of a double-sided PCB must be printed as a mirror image.

The quality of a photomask is highly dependent on both the output device and the photomask material, as well as factors that we will discuss below.

Photomask material

We are not talking about using a photomask of medium transparency - since for ultraviolet radiation a translucent one will be enough, this is not significant, because For less transparent material, the exposure time increases quite a bit. Line legibility, opacity of black areas, and toner/ink drying speed are much more important. Possible alternatives when printing a photomask:
Transparent acetate film (OHP)- may seem like the most obvious alternative, but this replacement can be expensive. The material tends to bend or distort when heated by the laser printer, and the toner/ink may crack and fall off easily. NOT RECOMMENDED
Polyester drawing film- good, but expensive, excellent dimensional stability. The rough surface holds ink or toner well. When using a laser printer, it is necessary to take thick film, because... When heated, the thin film is susceptible to warping. But even thick film can be deformed under the influence of some printers. Not recommended, but possible.
Tracing paper. Take the maximum thickness you can find - at least 90 grams per square meter. meter (if you take a thinner one, it may warp), 120 grams per square meter. a meter would be even better, but it's harder to find. It is inexpensive and can be obtained in offices without much difficulty. Tracing paper has good permeability to ultraviolet radiation and is close to drawing film in its ability to hold ink, and even superior to its properties of not being distorted when heated.

Output device

Pen plotters- painstaking and slow. You will need to use expensive polyester drawing film (tracing paper is not suitable as the ink is applied in single lines) and special inks. The pen will have to be cleaned periodically, because... it gets clogged easily. NOT RECOMMENDED.
Inkjet printers- the main problem when using is to achieve the necessary opacity. These printers are so cheap that they are certainly worth a try, but their print quality does not compare to the quality of laser printers. You can also try printing on paper first, and then using a good copier to transfer the image onto tracing paper.
Typesetters- for better quality of the photo template create Postscript or PDF file and forwarded to the DTP or compositor. A photomask made in this way will have a resolution of at least 2400DPI, absolute opacity of black areas and perfect image sharpness. The cost is usually given per page, not including the area used, i.e. If you can duplicate copies of the PP or have both sides of the PP on one page, you will save money. On such devices you can also make a large board, the format of which is not supported by your printer.
Laser printers- easily provide the best resolution, are affordable and fast. The printer used must have a resolution of at least 600dpi for all PCBs, because we need to make 40 stripes per inch. 300DPI will not be able to divide an inch by 40, unlike 600DPI.

It's also important to note that the printer produces good black prints without toner blotches. If you are planning to buy a printer for making PCBs, then you must initially test this model on a regular sheet of paper. Even the best laser printers may not cover large areas completely, but this is not a problem as long as fine lines are printed.

When using tracing paper or drawing film, it is necessary to have a manual for loading paper into the printer and to change the film correctly to avoid jamming of the equipment. Remember that when producing small PCBs, to save film or tracing paper, you can cut the sheets in half or to the desired format (for example, cut A4 to get A5).

Some laser printers print with poor accuracy, but since any error is linear, it can be compensated for by scaling the data when printing.

Photoresist

It is best to use FR4 fiberglass laminate already coated with film resist. Otherwise, you will have to coat the workpiece yourself. You don't need a dark room or dim lighting, just avoid direct sunlight, minimize excess light, and develop directly after UV exposure.

Rarely used are liquid photoresists, which are spray-applied and coat the copper with a thin film. I would not recommend using them unless you have the conditions to produce a very clean surface or want a low resolution PCB.

Exhibition

The board coated with photoresist must be irradiated ultraviolet radiation through a photomask using a UV installation.

When exposing, you can use standard fluorescent lamps and UV cameras. For a small PP - two or four 8-watt 12" lamps will be enough; for large ones (A3) it is ideal to use four 15" 15-watt lamps. To determine the distance from the glass to the exposure lamp, place a sheet of tracing paper on the glass and adjust the distance to obtain the desired level of illumination on the surface of the paper. The UV lamps you need are sold either as a replacement part for installations used in medicine, or as “black light” lamps for lighting discotheques. They are colored white or sometimes black/blue and glow with a purple light that makes the paper fluorescent (it glows brightly). DO NOT USE short wave UV lamps similar to EPROM or germicidal lamps that have clear glass. They emit short-wave UV radiation, which can cause damage to skin and eyes, and are not suitable for PCB production.

The exposure installation can be equipped with a timer that displays the duration of exposure to radiation on the PP; the limit of its measurement should be from 2 to 10 minutes in increments of 30 s. It would be a good idea to provide the timer with a sound signal indicating the end of the exposure time. It would be ideal to use a mechanical or electronic microwave timer.

You will have to experiment to find the right exposure time. Try exposing every 30 seconds, starting at 20 seconds and ending at 10 minutes. Show the software and compare the permissions received. Note that overexposure produces a better image than underexposure.

So, to expose a single-sided PP, turn the photomask with the printed side up on the installation glass, remove the protective film and place the PP with the sensitive side down on top of the photomask. The PCB should be pressed against the glass to obtain a minimum gap for better resolution. This can be achieved either by placing some weight on the surface of the PP, or by attaching to the UV installation a hinged cover with a rubber seal, which presses the PP to the glass. In some installations for better contact The PP is fixed by creating a vacuum under the lid using a small vacuum pump.

When exposing a double-sided board, the side of the photomask with toner (rougher) is applied normally to the solder side of the PCB, and mirrored to the opposite side (where the components will be placed). By placing the photo templates with the printed side to each other and aligning them, check that all areas of the film match. For this, it is convenient to use a backlit table, but it can be replaced with ordinary daylight if you combine photo masks on the surface of the window. If coordinate accuracy has been lost during printing, this may result in the image not being aligned with the holes; Try to align the films by the average error value, making sure that the vias do not extend beyond the edges of the pads. Once the photomasks are connected and properly aligned, attach them to the surface of the PCB with tape in two places on opposite sides sheet (if the board is large, then on 3 sides) at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the plate. It is important to leave a gap between the staples and the edge of the paper because... this will prevent damage to the edge of the image. Use paper clips yourself small size, which you can find so that the thickness of the paper clip is not much thicker than PP.

Expose each side of the PP in turn. After irradiating the PCB, you will be able to see the topology image on the photoresist film.

Finally, it can be noted that short exposure to radiation on the eyes does not cause harm, but a person may feel discomfort, especially when using powerful lamps. It is better to use glass rather than plastic for the installation frame, because... it is more rigid and less susceptible to cracking on contact.

You can combine UV lamps and white light tubes. If you have a lot of orders for the production of double-sided boards, then it would be cheaper to purchase a double-sided exposure unit, where the PCBs are placed between two light sources, and both sides of the PCB are exposed to radiation at the same time.

Manifestation

The main thing to say about this operation is DO NOT USE SODIUM HYDROXIDE when developing photoresist. This substance is completely unsuitable for the manifestation of PP - in addition to the causticity of the solution, its disadvantages include strong sensitivity to changes in temperature and concentration, as well as instability. This substance is too weak to develop the entire image and too strong to dissolve the photoresist. Those. It is impossible to obtain an acceptable result using this solution, especially if you set up your laboratory in a room with frequent temperature changes (garage, shed, etc.).

Much better as a developer is a solution made on the basis of silicic acid ester, which is sold in the form of a liquid concentrate. Its chemical composition is Na 2 SiO 3 * 5H 2 O. This substance has a huge number of advantages. The most important thing is that it is very difficult to overexpose PP in it. You can leave the PP for a non-fixed time. This also means that it hardly changes its properties due to temperature changes - there is no risk of disintegration as the temperature increases. This solution also has a very long shelf life, and its concentration remains constant for at least a couple of years.

The absence of the problem of overexposure in the solution will allow you to increase its concentration to reduce the time for the development of PP. It is recommended to mix 1 part of the concentrate with 180 parts of water, i.e. 200 ml of water contains just over 1.7 grams. silicate, but it is possible to make a more concentrated mixture so that the image appears in about 5 s without the risk of surface destruction during overexposure; if it is impossible to purchase sodium silicate, you can use sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate (Na 2 CO 3).

You can control the development process by immersing the PP in ferric chloride for a very short time - the copper will immediately fade, and the shape of the image lines can be discerned. If there are still shiny areas or the gaps between the lines are blurry, rinse the board and hold it in the developing solution for a few more seconds. Underexposed PP may remain on the surface thin layer resist not removed by solvent. To remove any remaining film, gently wipe the PCB with a paper towel that is rough enough to remove the photoresist without damaging the conductors.

You can use either a photolithographic developing bath or a vertical development tank - the bath is convenient because it allows you to control the development process without removing the PP from the solution. You will not need heated baths or tanks if the solution temperature is maintained at least 15 degrees.

Another recipe for a developing solution: Take 200 ml of “liquid glass”, add 800 ml of distilled water and stir. Then add 400 g of sodium hydroxide to this mixture.

Precautions: Never handle solid sodium hydroxide with your hands; use gloves. When sodium hydroxide is dissolved in water, it releases large number heat, so it must be dissolved in small portions. If the solution becomes too hot, allow it to cool before adding another portion of powder. The solution is very caustic and therefore it is necessary to wear safety glasses when working with it. Liquid glass also known as "sodium silicate solution" and "egg preserver". It is used for cleaning drainpipes and is sold at any hardware store. This solution cannot be made by simply dissolving solid sodium silicate. The developing solution described above has the same intensity as the concentrate, and therefore it must be diluted - 4-8 parts of water for 1 part of concentrate, depending on the resist used and temperature.

Etching

Typically, ferric chloride is used as an etchant. This is very harmful substance, but it is easy to obtain and much cheaper than most analogues. Ferric chloride will etch any metal, including stainless steels, so when installing pickling equipment, use a plastic or ceramic weir, with plastic screws and screws, and when attaching any materials with bolts, their heads should have a silicon rubber seal. If you have metal pipes, then protect them with plastic (when installing a new drain, it would be ideal to use heat-resistant plastic). Evaporation of the solution usually does not occur very intensely, but when the baths or tank are not in use, it is better to cover them.

It is recommended to use ferric chloride hexahydrate, which is yellow in color and is sold in powder or granule form. To obtain a solution, they must be poured warm water and stir until completely dissolved. Production can be significantly improved from an environmental point of view by adding a teaspoon of table salt to the solution. Sometimes dehydrated ferric chloride is found, which appears as brownish-green granules. Avoid using this substance if possible. It can only be used as a last resort, because... when dissolved in water, it releases a large amount of heat. If you still decide to make an etching solution from it, then under no circumstances fill the powder with water. The granules must be added very carefully and gradually to the water. If the resulting ferric chloride solution does not completely etch the resist, then try adding a small amount hydrochloric acid and leave it for 1-2 days.

All manipulations with solutions must be carried out very carefully. Splashing of both types of etchants should not be allowed, because mixing them may cause a small explosion, causing the liquid to splash out of the container and possibly get into your eyes or onto your clothing, which is dangerous. Therefore, wear gloves and safety glasses while working and immediately wash off any spills that come into contact with your skin.

If you are producing PCB on a professional basis where time is money, you can use heated pickling tanks to speed up the process. With fresh hot FeCl, PP will be completely etched in 5 minutes at a solution temperature of 30-50 degrees. In this case it turns out best quality edges and more uniform width of image lines. Instead of using heated baths, you can place the pickling pan in a larger container filled with hot water.

If you do not use a container with air supplied to bubble the solution, then you will need to periodically move the board to ensure even etching.

Tinning

Tin is applied to the surface of the PCB to facilitate soldering. The metallization operation consists of depositing a thin layer of tin (no more than 2 microns) on the surface of copper.

Surface preparation of PP is a very important step before metallization begins. First of all, you need to remove the remaining photoresist, for which you can use special cleaning solutions. The most common solution for removing resist is a three percent solution of KOH or NaOH, heated to 40 - 50 degrees. The board is immersed in this solution, and after some time the photoresist peels off from the copper surface. After filtering, the solution can be reused. Another recipe is using methanol (methyl alcohol). Cleaning is done as follows: holding the PCB (washed and dried) horizontally, drop a few drops of methanol onto the surface, then, tilting the board slightly, try to ensure that drops of alcohol spread over the entire surface. Wait about 10 seconds and wipe the board with a napkin; if the resist remains, repeat the operation again. Then wipe the surface of the PP with a wire wool (which gives a much better result than sandpaper or abrasive rollers) until you achieve a shiny surface, wipe with a cloth to remove any particles left behind by the sponge, and immediately place the board in the tinning solution. Do not touch the surface of the board with your fingers after cleaning. During the soldering process, the tin may become wetted by the molten solder. It is better to solder with soft solders with acid-free fluxes. It should be noted that if there is a certain period of time between technological operations, then the board must be picked out to remove the formed copper oxide: 2-3 s in a 5% solution of hydrochloric acid, followed by rinsing in running water. It is enough to simply carry out chemical tinning; for this, the board is lowered into aqueous solution containing tin chloride. The release of tin on the surface of a copper coating occurs when immersed in a tin salt solution in which the potential of the copper is more electronegative than the coating material. The change in potential in the desired direction is facilitated by the introduction of a complexing additive into the tin salt solution - thiocarbamide (thiourea), an alkali metal cyanide. This type of solution has the following composition (g/l):

	1	2	3	4	5
Tin chloride SnCl 2 *2H 2 O	5.5	5-8	4	20	10
Thiocarbamide CS(NH 2) 2	50	35-50	-	-	-
Sulfuric acid H 2 SO 4	-	30-40	-	-	-
KCN	-	-	50	-	-
Tartaric acid C 4 H 6 O 6	35	-	-	-	-
NaOH	-	6	-	-	-
Sodium lactic acid	-	-	-	200	-
Aluminum ammonium sulfate (aluminum ammonium alum)	-	-	-	-	300
Temperature, C o	60-70	50-60	18-25	18-25	18-25

Among the above, solutions 1 and 2 are the most common. Attention! Potassium cyanide solution is extremely poisonous!

Sometimes it is suggested to use as a surfactant for 1 solution detergent"Progress" in the amount of 1 ml/l. Adding 2-3 g/l bismuth nitrate to solution 2 leads to the deposition of an alloy containing up to 1.5% bismuth, which improves the solderability of the coating and maintains it for several months. To preserve the surface, aerosol sprays based on fluxing compositions are used. After drying, the varnish applied to the surface of the workpiece forms a strong, smooth film that prevents oxidation. One of the popular such substances is "SOLDERLAC" from Cramolin. Subsequent soldering takes place directly on the treated surface without additional varnish removal. In particularly critical cases of soldering, the varnish can be removed with an alcohol solution.

Artificial tinning solutions deteriorate over time, especially when exposed to air. Therefore, if you do not regularly have large orders, then try to prepare a small amount of solution at once, sufficient to tinning the required amount of PP; store the remaining solution in a closed container (ideally use one of the bottles used in photography, which does not allow air to pass through). It is also necessary to protect the solution from contamination, which can greatly deteriorate the quality of the substance. Thoroughly clean and dry the workpiece before each technological operation. You should have a special tray and tongs for this purpose. Tools must also be thoroughly cleaned after use.

The most popular and simple melt for tinning is a low-melting alloy - "Rose" (tin - 25%, lead - 25%, bismuth - 50%), the melting point of which is 130 C o. Using tongs, place the board under the level of the liquid melt for 5-10 s, and after removing it, check whether all copper surfaces are evenly covered. If necessary, the operation is repeated. Immediately after removing the board from the melt, it is removed either using a rubber squeegee or by sharp shaking in a direction perpendicular to the plane of the board, holding it in the clamp. Another way to remove residual Rose alloy is to heat it in a heating oven and shake it. The operation can be repeated to achieve a mono-thickness coating. To prevent oxidation of the hot melt, nitroglycerin is added to the solution so that its level covers the melt by 10 mm. After the operation, the board is washed from glycerin in running water.

Attention! These operations involve working with installations and materials exposed to high temperatures, so to prevent burns it is necessary to use protective gloves, goggles and aprons. The operation of tinning with a tin-lead alloy proceeds similarly, but more high temperature melt limits the scope of application of this method in artisanal production conditions.

An installation consisting of three vessels: a heated pickling bath, a bubbling bath and a developing tray. As a guaranteed minimum: an etching bath and a container for rinsing boards. Photographic baths can be used for developing and tinning boards.
- Set of tinning trays of various sizes
- Guillotine for PP or small guillotine shears.
- Drilling machine, with foot pedal.

If you cannot get a washing bath, you can use a hand-held sprinkler to wash the boards (for example, for watering flowers).

Well, that's it. We wish you to successfully master this technique and get excellent results every time.