When watching TV shows or videos, many are fascinated by the unusual stucco moldings that decorate the walls of a variety of rooms. Today, man-made bas-reliefs are no longer limited to the category of luxury, and they can be found not only in historical buildings, theaters and luxurious mansions. Most owners of apartments and private houses successfully use this decorative element in their own interiors.

Surface preparation - mix the solution and sculpt the background

Every living space needs personality. In this regard, hand-made bas-reliefs have an undeniable advantage: their sizes and shapes are not limited, the materials for their production are sold in any hardware store at an affordable price, and their production itself is a creative and very entertaining process.

First of all, we will select a section of the wall that we will decorate. Pay attention to its lighting, will it be natural light from the window or you will need artificial lighting, because it is the play of light and shadow that visually increases the volume and emphasizes the texture of the image.

Now let’s select the sketches and decide on the size of the image. Of course, a hunting scene or a reproduction of Michelangelo's famous paintings would look great in your living room, but it is unlikely that you will be able to turn them into reality, so it is worth starting with small elements that include floral patterns, geometric shapes, and even simpler some details of abstraction.

For work we will need:

• Rubber gloves;
• Trowel;
• Spatula;
• Wide flat brush;
• Palette knife;
• Cling film.

Before starting work, be sure to prepare the surface: remove the old coating from the wall section, level it, plaster it if necessary, and be sure to cover it with a layer of primer for better adhesion of the materials. The wall is left until completely dry.

Stucco is made from clay, alabaster, gypsum or plaster mixtures based on it. The recipe for preparing a gypsum solution is 1.5 kg of gypsum per 1 liter of water. For plasticity, add a little PVA glue to it and mix everything thoroughly. From the resulting soft “dough” it is easy to form a future bas-relief, and you should start with the main background. These are usually surfaces with some texture. For example, a few random brush strokes on wet plaster or movements of a paint roller will leave original marks.

A good background for a bas-relief would be an imitation of brick or stone masonry, a fine “sandy” pattern left by an ordinary sponge, or a textured surface of deliberately rough plastering. If the bas-relief is planned not in the form of a panel, but as a separate protruding element, then the wall around it must first be pasted over masking tape to protect it from contamination.

Let's start sculpting - create a sketch and add volume

When our sculptural “canvas” is ready, we can transfer the main drawing onto it. In this case, you need a thicker solution, namely, for 1 liter of water we now take 2 kg of gypsum. The finished mixture should not spread over your hands and should hold its shape well.

In stucco, the easiest way to start is with plant elements. When planning a grapevine, you need to mark the location of the branch, the leaves on it and the large berry cluster. Whether it is an image of a flower, a silhouette of a tree, or part of an architectural column, it is important to maintain the scale of all image elements relative to each other. If you don’t know how to draw, then you can use prepared stencils or make a sketch of the drawing on a transparent film, copying it, for example, from the monitor screen. To draw a tree, you just need to illuminate a suitable branch with a flashlight and trace the resulting shadow on the wall.

Next, we move on to the most difficult and important stage - adding volume to the drawn sketch. The mixture, which is intended for stucco, must be very plastic and not harden quickly, since it should be applied in several stages, allowing each layer to dry. Considering this, it is better to prepare small portions of the solution and use them immediately.

If it is assumed that the bas-reliefs made of gypsum and putty will be voluminous, then it is recommended that their most protruding parts be additionally reinforced by screwing self-tapping screws into the wall or securing a regular plaster bandage to it with a stapler. Separate volumetric figures can be created using cardboard and foam blanks, which are attached to the wall and coated with the mixture.

You can add texture to plant elements by using their natural analogues with a clear vein pattern - tightly attach a leaf of grape, maple, or even your favorite to the mixture indoor plant, remove with a spatula or with a regular knife excess putty around, forming a crisp edge. Leave the element to dry for several hours and remove the remaining leaves.

For such “prints” or as a decorative element of the bas-relief, you can use other available items: burlap, shells, decorative stones etc.

Convex parts can also be cast from plaster using a prepared plasticine mold and liquid gypsum solution. Elements such as berries, protruding flower petals or a tree branch are best sculpted by hand from alabaster (the solution is prepared following the instructions on the package), and then attached to the wall, firmly pressing and coating on all sides.

"Free" gypsum - a simple method of obtaining decorative elements

Simple and affordable way obtaining volumetric parts - “free” plaster. It is usually used to create compositions of ornate patterns created from paper napkins soaked in plaster, as well as to form floral and plant bas-reliefs. This method is accessible even to beginners, you just need to choose the right materials and combine them harmoniously.

For “free” gypsum, architectural gypsum is best suited, from which it is prepared liquid solution. To stir, you can use a construction or regular kitchen mixer or do it by hand. So, for 1 kg of gypsum take 0.7 liters of water. To prevent lumps from forming, it is the dry material that is added to the water, and not vice versa, and it is better gradually, in small portions, mixing thoroughly each time. To make the solution more plastic and to prevent the finished bas-reliefs from cracking, it is recommended to add a little PVA glue diluted with water. In the final version, the solution should be homogeneous and the consistency should be close to liquid sour cream.

Plant branches, buds, elastic inflorescences of real or artificial flowers are dipped into this composition, and paper napkins are also impregnated with it. The resulting workpiece is placed on flat surface, covered plastic film, and left to dry. Flowers and paper elements must be arranged in the way they will be fixed in the interior. This will allow you to form on each part flat base, which will then be mounted on the wall. After complete drying (at least 24 hours later), the workpieces are again dipped into the gypsum mixture and again placed in the same position to dry. This procedure is repeated until a 1.5 mm thick layer of gypsum is formed on the elements.

The finished parts are attached to the wall using thick acrylic plaster or PVA glue. To finally fix the finished composition and give it a monolithic look, the entire relief is coated with a thick gypsum mortar using a brush, special attention paying attention to the junctions of attached elements. Today you can learn the basics of sculptural craft by simply sitting in front of a monitor screen. It’s easy to find a suitable master class online, successfully master the first lessons, and eventually take up paintings.

The best material for such modeling is considered to be a gypsum mixture based on PVA glue. The mass should be elastic and thick, like soft plasticine. Now you can remember your kindergarten experience and try to make a cherry, a flower, or even a bee. There is no need to be upset if your piece of art does not work out. You can use ready-made forms - buy them at a craft store or take silicone mold for baking or ordinary figurines from a children's sandbox. In this case, a gypsum mixture as thick as sour cream is poured into the prepared mold and left until it hardens. The resulting molding is taken out and glued to the wall in a certain place in the composition.

Finishing – clean, paint, protect from moisture

At the end of the work, all roughness on the resulting panel should be smoothed out. To do this, it is best to use a small piece of fine-grained sandpaper. Act carefully without unnecessary pressure so as not to destroy the necessary textured elements. Sometimes after such processing other imperfections appear - small cracks, unevenness or small dimples left by air bubbles. Now is the time to finally grease and fill everything.

The finished bas-relief on the wall is thoroughly cleaned of gypsum dust and crumbs and must be treated with a primer. Now you can start decorative finishing images. Most often, acrylic paints and tint colors are used for this. It’s up to you to paint the bas-relief in different colors, use discreet two-tone halftones, or stick to pristine white – it all depends on the stylistic execution of the panel and, of course, on your desire.

And finally they apply to the stucco molding protective coating type of water repellent, acrylic wax or varnish. Such protection is especially important for bas-reliefs in rooms with high humidity, for example, in kitchens, bathrooms, unheated corridors.

Once upon a time, decorating the interior with stucco molding and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is just a matter of labor and patience. Achievements modern technologies make it possible to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco at home for people who do not have art education, but not devoid of artistic taste and imagination. Create bas-reliefs like those in Fig. Below, it is quite possible for a patient and attentive amateur.

Bas-reliefs of modern work

New materials

In addition to the traditional material for stucco - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under the general name “acrylic plasters”. You can learn how to increase the volume of a bas-relief using construction putty compounds from the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Hobbyists also use a basic composition of architectural plaster, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1:1:0.5 by volume. The gypsum and plaster mixture are mixed dry and sealed with water, i.e. add water to the mixture, not the other way around. Bring to the consistency of dough like yogurt or low-fat kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The thickness of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

The bas-relief on the wall is made using the technique of low relief (top left in the figure) or high, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are sculpted like a round sculpture (see below). Low bas-relief looks good in any lighting, except very dim, and high relief looks better in diffused light.

Types of bas-reliefs

In living spaces, which are often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed bas-relief technique (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to sculpt the bas-relief “Klimt Tree”, see for example. Master class video below:

Video: master class bas-relief “Klimt’s Tree”

The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all the techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become familiar with them clearly, it will be easier for you to understand further and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: At one time, the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition “Tree of Life”. Her style is so unique that the expression “Klimt tree” has become popular.

Reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the top figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut in depth), which is technically much more complex. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs bright and sharp oblique light, because the image actually draws a shadow. There are more special kind bas-relief - shadow, lower right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and minute protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. When the direction and angle of incidence of light changes, the pattern changes, even changing facial expressions throughout the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: the protrusions and depressions become clogged and lose their shape when cleaned. The drawing fades, blurs, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done using one of them following methods, in order of increasing technical complexity:

• Plastering of free ones, i.e. models that were not initially fixed to the supporting surface and cannot be removed;
• Plastering of non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because... allow you to receive the corresponding high and low relief, without risking the need to redo the entire work again in case of failure;
• Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more labor-intensive, but also suitable for beginners, because... You can pore over the model as much as you like until it is perfect. In addition, in one mold (form, mold) made according to a model, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast at home;
• Artistic plaster stucco in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires thorough skills, but makes it possible to create large relief panels covering the entire wall, with contours around corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief using methods 2-4 both locally and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of prefabricated bas-relief is plasterboard sheet, plasterboard. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), parts of the overall picture or complete compositions are drawn out on separate sheets or pieces of them of the desired shape (see figure), and mounted on a leveled wall.

Relief panels

The heads of the fasteners and the joints of the fragments are puttied with a base compound, then plastered and rubbed down to match the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece damaged due to inexperience can be remade without touching the rest. The bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; It is impossible to attach a prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, PHB partitions, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the load-bearing base must be stronger than the material of the composition.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require you to acquire some special tools. Not very expensive, but you can’t count on success without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once if you turn it inside out, and the dried remains fly off in the same way. The bas-relief will be stronger and more beautiful the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the beginning of setting. The kneading ball eliminates wasted time on shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from a ball, because... There are no corners inside. For the same reason, the batch turns out to be more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors in the final artistry of the bas-relief.

Tools for making bas-reliefs from gypsum

Next, you will need spatulas for modeling - palette knives. Set of 6 pieces (item 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For forming bunches of grapes, scales, etc. Convex-concave spatulas are also needed. Sets with these are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) for a set of 48 items, so amateurs often use spoons of different sizes instead (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, you can’t just create low relief with spoons; the bend of the handle gets in the way. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons made of aluminum and other ductile metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle at the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, you get a concave spatula.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To obtain concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter near the scoop, twisted and bent while heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters use it to clean old paint from the palette, and the sculptors trim the edges, cut off the flash, and create a fine texture. A palette knife can be perfectly replaced with a wide shoe knife.

Next necessary tool– a confectionery syringe with nozzles (items 3 and 4) and, possibly, a 20 ml medical syringe without a needle. It is highly advisable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (item 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are not nearly as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, we’ve all seen how to decorate cakes) by holding it with both hands; Hold the instrument at the tip with your left hand.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes of different sizes and the same number of round, cheapest, ox-ear bristles. There is no point in buying expensive squirrel and kolin for bas-relief “for the sake of coolness”, they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for painting. Use brushes to create texture (see below) and plaster small areas of the bas-relief.

Working with and caring for the tool

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before adding the next portion of the mixture. Residues and drips on the working part are the key to spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered into water in parts; Palette knives and brushes are also placed there. When the instrument becomes acidic, the remaining working materials are thoroughly washed off it. clean water. By the way, a properly cared for pastry syringe after working on the bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be stored absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technologies

Creating a bas-relief on the walls in an apartment (or on plasterboard sheets, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

• The base surface is cleaned of old finishing, leveled with an accuracy of no worse than 2 mm/m, primed and covered with a base compound or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL for prefabricated bas-relief does not require leveling;
• The background texture is applied to the base coating: with a foam rubber or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coat is decorative plaster, no texture or toning required;
• In one way or another (from those indicated above and described below), the relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, tinting is possible similar to that for the base;
• If necessary, the relief is painted over the top when completely dry. It is convenient to do surface painting with special paints for gypsum stucco - they are immediately shaded into very subtle halftones with a damp sponge. Acrylic paints will give sharper color transitions;
• The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in construction stores). The colors on dried gypsum stucco fade, like on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their color;
• After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tint stucco?

From the video above it is clear that the stucco bas-relief needs to be formed in layers. To tint the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, apply thin layers, 1-2 mm each. Typically, layers of thick, low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. The batch for each layer is tinted with a color (pigment) for plaster; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree, a brown pigment of ever-decreasing concentration is taken, and for leaves, green is added as it moves outward. The next layer is applied to the set but still wet previous one. The texture with shades can be applied right there with a brush or then rubbed with sandpaper or rough sandpaper. large areas, wire brush. For more information on tinting gypsum stucco, see the following video.

Video: how to cover a bas-relief on a wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create tall floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using an inverted plate or bowl greased with lanolin as a model, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The base solution described above is not used. It is durable, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, tinting is not used due to excessive consumption of material; finished elements are painted.

For plastering, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural plaster is prepared. The model is dipped in it ( artificial flower, napkin) and place it on a board covered plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution has set, dip it again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.

Drying artificial flowers during the gypsum process

Flowers for drying are placed in the same position each time. In this way, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. They glue acrylic plaster thickness of sour cream or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering on site

This is perhaps the most accessible way to make, say, a molded lampshade for a chandelier (see figure) without experience. Plastering the model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and then plastered with a brush. The plaster solution is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, up to 10-15 or more layers will be required.

Stucco lampshade for chandelier

The main problem here is the material of the model. They are usually made from polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but still, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown irremovable stains begin to appear on the stucco. Therefore, models for plastering on site are best sculpted from salt dough, the same dough from which Christmas decorations with your own hands. For plaster, stone and other minerals building materials salt dough glued with acrylic glue or any mounting glue. Stucco molding based on non-removable salt dough models retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, allowing you to obtain results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic procedure for reverse casting from plaster is shown step by step on the left in the figure, pos. a-e. Model 1 made of plaster, plasticine, plastic, etc., or an exemplary product that it is desirable to repeat/replicate, is placed on flat shield 2. Now, to make it easier to remove the mold with the model, the shield is covered with film.

Reverse casting from plaster

Then the model is coated with a thin layer of lanolin. It is not advisable to use medical Vaseline; the model may stick to the mold. A plaster and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is coated several times, allowing the lanolin to soak in for an hour or two, until a solid greasy sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough thickness, approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffening ribs 5. The set and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame made of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with ties 7 of thin copper wire.

The next step is coating 9 with a thick cement-sand mortar from M150 in a layer up to 5 or more cm thick, this is already a casting mold. Here you need to remember to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After a time of gaining 3/4 of the strength with cement-sand mortar (7-20 days, depending on external conditions), the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, what if the shield was covered film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, inner surface The molds are cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. The burr is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its internal edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is coated with lanolin, like a model. The mold is filled with the casting mass layer by layer. As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyes with mustaches are inserted into it (upper right in the figure), by which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebbs, the eyes can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already firmly seated in the penultimate one, i.e. when it is completely hard, but still slightly damp. It is unacceptable to test the firmness of the lugs by shaking them!

Currently for runs up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way they do not cast from plaster; the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). Model prepared as before. case, pour silicone layer by layer, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold allows you to produce castings with shallow recesses, because it is elastic and stretchable.

Mini gypsum reverse casting

Also, small rounded plaster parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., even small fish. In this case, a flask tray is sculpted from plasticine, and the model is also sculpted from plasticine. The silicone is poured into the flask all at once; The flask and the model are not coated with anything. Once the silicone has hardened, the mold is simply torn off and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini – reverse casting of plaster.

...and not the other way around

In plaster mini-casting, a removable model is already used; I mean, the model disappears and needs to be made again for the next batch of castings. A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting using a lost wax model, then from it it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings, but convex ones, without depressions. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a box without a bottom made of plywood with a height 2-3 cm greater than the height of the model and a size such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a board covered with film. Then they place the flask and cover the gap at the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is doused with silicone in layers, as in the previous one. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the mold is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, fill the plywood bottom. The model is melted with a household hairdryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not provide.

Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can purchase them without enrolling in an evening department at an art university or courses. Just practice with plasticine; The technique is the same, only when working with plaster the time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it begins to set. Technically, plaster modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

The technique of flat plaster modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules here are like this. First, the material of thick dough or rich sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. The third, next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the set but still wet previous one. Fourth, as the layers build up, they switch to smaller tools. And fifth, in each layer the work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thickest and roughest. IN in this case- from the leaf teeth to its petiole.

Low plaster casting

It is best to display branches on bas-reliefs pastry syringe or, very subtle, medical. The thickness of the branches is adjusted by pressing harder and weaker on the piston (item 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is applied with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plaster, like a non-removable model in place.

Branches on bas-reliefs made of plaster

Strongly twisting branches (item 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of sour cream thickness, laying it on a board covered with film along the contour, and when dry, gluing it to the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, lay out the cord immediately, it will dry firmly. To obtain branches of decreasing thickness, some of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then left alone. If the cord is visible through the plaster, the branch is gypsumed in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted mixtures. The desired color is obtained by grouting with sandpaper.

Sharp ribs

You've probably seen sharp ribs in pictures with bas-reliefs. They are formed by folding large and index fingers, and the thumbs - with the fingers of both palms bent back. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly moving/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion as the rib is formed. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

The basis of the round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living creature. Information about skeletons can be gleaned from any course on the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is a discipline not of medical, but of artistic education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to treat, and is designed for listeners who are not inclined to the subtleties and rigors of science.

The figure is approx. from 30-40 cm is molded onto the frame as shown in pos. 1 pic. For smaller figures, the frame is simplified (item 2), but respecting the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide height by 8; 1/8 of it will be the dimensional module of a harmonious human body, pos. 3.

Plaster molding on the frame

The frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (items 4a and 4b). It is advisable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with securing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

• The basic frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together with a thin winding copper wire, and even better - soldering.
• In a liquid plaster solution, like low-fat kefir, rolls of medical bandage are soaked, as for plaster casting broken limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame is wrapped with a plaster bandage, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage begins to peel off poorly from the skein, it means that the plaster has begun to harden and the rest of the roll goes to waste.
• Once the plaster frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (tinting can be used), the shape and texture are adjusted with tools and sandpaper, and it is plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. It is convenient to use thin and fine metal mesh. Another option is branches of the main branches, covered with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for homemade high reliefs are sculpted separately; the location is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface, respectively. flat so that the shapes can be glued into place.

How to attach bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If per 1 sq. dm. its supporting area is more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm, driven into plastic dowels, are best suited for this. The attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten off. The bas-relief mass above the protruding fastening peg should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Superbas-relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need for this is a piece of plasterboard with a layer of fresh base solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. You need to carefully remove the flash from the edges of the nail tip to get a regular 4-sided pyramid.

We prepare the sample as follows: using a nail with a slight slope, we prick even rows of holes in a checkerboard pattern and close to each other along the still plastic gypsum board coating. The inclination of the nail and the orientation of the edges of its tip relative to the directions of the rows must be maintained as accurately as possible so that the holes are equally asymmetrical.

The next step is to take the sample on a straight line sunlight and, turning this way and that, and in some other way, we observe the play of chiaroscuro. At the same time, we try to imagine how the holes should be pricked to create a changing pattern. And, who knows, maybe you will discover a talent for this rare, but extremely effective art - shadow bas-relief.

Three-dimensional images on the wall can become original decoration interior Unlike moldings (overhead decorative elements), they are created only by hand. Making a high-quality bas-relief is painstaking work, but if you have a strong desire and at least basic modeling skills, you can create it yourself. Beginning craftsmen can use stencils.

Materials and tools

To create a bas-relief you will need:
sketch of the future image;
pencil, marker;
plastic sheets for creating stencils;

Stencil for bas-relief

Masking tape;
colors or paints for gypsum solutions (if the bas-relief is colored);
paint brush;
palette knives: steel or plastic spatulas used to create textured and relief images;

Palette knives

Plaster, plaster, clay, alabaster or other plastic material.

Mixing plaster

Creating a Sketch

Even if the work will be done using stencils, it is necessary to make a sketch of it in life size to check how the pattern will fit with the rest of the room decor. It may need to be adjusted - remove excess or, on the contrary, add details to fill some voids. The finished drawing is transferred onto tracing paper or thin film.

Transferring an image to film

For beginners, it is better not to use too voluminous images with multi-stage relief. They will look quite original on the wall big flower or a composition of several flowers, fruits or berries, branches with leaves, simple outlines of animals, birds, etc.

A three-dimensional image can consist of several simple details transferred to the wall using a stencil

Surface preparation

The bas-relief is made on a pre-leveled and plastered surface. To increase adhesion to plaster or plaster, it primed at least 2 times. In rooms with high humidity it is better to use an antifungal composition.

To prevent the wall from looking perfectly flat, you can apply a base of acrylic putty or satengypsum(fine-grained gypsum). To obtain a relief surface, after applying the solution, the wall is processed with a roller or spatula using chaotic strokes. A rather original and convex pattern can be obtained even with the help of crumpled paper or film.

Obtaining a relief surface using crumpled film

Venetian plaster

Creation uneven surface using a spatula

Looks very original bas-relief with backlight. In order not to damage the image or cover it with dust, it is better to install lamps for it in advance.

Volumetric image on the wall with backlight

Bas-relief lamp

Making a bas-relief

1. To transfer sketch on the wall, you should attach a carbon copy to it, and then attach the drawing on top with masking tape. The gluing areas are then carefully rubbed down.

2. You can transfer the sketch to the wall in another way. To do this, a small layer of solution is applied to it, a drawing is applied, and its outline is outlined using a palette knife with a pointed end, a match or a toothpick.

3. If the bas-relief is voluminous, it is better to twist it in the thickest places of the image self-tapping screws. They will act as reinforcement, preventing the image from crumbling.

4. Material for stencils should be thick enough. Moreover, the larger the bas-relief, the thicker the stencil should be. It should be removed very carefully so as not to damage the image. A damaged bas-relief can be corrected at any time.

Advice. Small irregularities and blemishes can be removed after the plaster or plaster has completely dried. To do this, you should walk along the edges of the picture with fine sandpaper.

5. Convex images can also be obtained by mounting on walls cardboard blanks or pieces of polystyrene foam followed by coating with a solution. It will hold more firmly if the workpieces are pre-treated with a primer.

The blank for the bas-relief can be secured with self-tapping screws

6. Additional strength can be given to large image elements using a regular or plaster bandage soaked in a solution. You can buy it at any pharmacy.

Plaster bandage

7. Plaster, gypsum or alabaster are diluted with water according to the instructions. The solution is thoroughly mixed.

8. The solution is applied to the wall in several layers. Each subsequent layer should be performed after the previous one has completely dried.

Drawing an image using a palette knife

9. The convex parts are rolled out with your fingers, and then attached to the wall, slightly pressed down and leveled.

Bas-relief grapes

10. It is better to make the last layer of the image from finishing (fine) putty, which can be easily sanded.

11. Drawing small lines and sealing cracks is done upon completion of all work.

12. Thin veins on leaves and flowers can be applied using a medical syringe.

13. The finished drawing is covered with a primer. This finishing coat will not allow the plaster or plaster to crumble.

Advice. To prevent the bas-relief from cracking when drying, it should be periodically moistened with a damp brush.

Entrance door decoration

14. You can color an image in a variety of ways: by adding colors for acrylic paints directly into the solution, or by applying paints for gypsum mortars using an art brush. Excess paint is removed with a damp sponge.

Image coloring

Advice. You can get subtle color transitions by applying paint to a still wet bas-relief.

Finished image

Terra technique

Working with this technique does not require any special skills. You just need to stock up in advance dry branches, herbs, flowers or ears of corn. You can also use sand, cereals, noodles, small pebbles, etc.

On primed PVA glue wall (it should be diluted in a 1: 1 ratio), using the same PVA, a composition of dry plants is pressed. After the composition has completely dried, the pattern is covered with glue several more times and then processed acrylic paint or finishing putty.

Advice. If you treat foliage and flowers that have not yet yellowed with glycerin, they can be preserved. In this case, you can create real colored paintings from herbs and leaves on the wall. To prevent them from crumbling, they are treated several times with PVA glue.

Bas-relief of sunflowers treated with glycerin

Let’s make a reservation right away: step-by-step technologies and a complete list of all components will be indicated below in the corresponding section.

First, we will list only the basic things you need to have:

• Alabaster;
• PVA glue;
• Finishing putty;
• Water.

This is the basics, but auxiliary materials already depend on the type of drawings, which we will deal with here and now.

The most substantial bas-reliefs come from an alabaster mass poured into molds.

Depending on the type of the latter, you can get absolutely any configuration of a convex pattern: fruits, flowers, shells and even classic capitals.

The main thing here is just to find the right form, and the rest is just trifles. Pouring plaster is not difficult at all..

These are the decorative elements that can be made in about an hour. This is a marine theme, and you are free to choose whatever you want.

These shells are poured using ordinary children's beads for sand and attached to sheets of drywall. And the framing of the frame is made of ready-made foam moldings, which are usually attached to the junction of the ceiling and wall.

It seems like nothing complicated. There is plenty of plaster in hardware stores. But where can you get a good form?

Here we have to disappoint you, the choice is not that great: it is not enough to simply find a sample that is visually suitable in appearance, you also need the material to withstand the heating of the gypsum during hardening.

Yes, yes, it heats up quite strongly and expands! Therefore, molds for making soap, for example, are not suitable. They will simply burst and that’s all, since they are made of too thin plastic, not of the best quality.

You need something more substantial, like the same plastic beads, or even better – silicone for baking. It is not afraid of any metamorphosis of the material, since it is designed for both high heating and stretching.

And most importantly, take it out of it finished product much simpler than something hard.

We have dealt with this type of bas-relief with our own hands, but detailed description We will give you the process below, in the appropriate subsection. There you will find a complete list necessary materials and accessories for each type of painting with your own hands.

But besides casting, there is also other options.

For example, a bas-relief made from ready-made plaster figurines! Such a picture looks extremely expensive, but its final price cannot but rejoice.

Panels with various Greek characters myths, for example, Aphrodite or little angels.

If you take these ladies from plaster and not marble, then such a purchase will not hurt your pocket. But these are not all the options!

You can make a very cute composition using ordinary fabric flowers, the types of which are countless in souvenir shops. In addition, you can use cones and other suitable forms. It will look like this:

A bas-relief made of plaster can be made removable, like an ordinary painting, or it can be made monolithic, as one with the wall, as you already saw in the top picture with shells.

And if you know how to draw, then it will not be difficult for you to make a three-dimensional drawing directly from putty, without using any aids and forms. But for this you need to have artistic taste and the most basic modeling skills. Here's what might happen:

Or even so, but for this you need to be a master.

These are, in fact, all the methods available to almost everyone. And now let's get down to specifics and let’s finally start doing, not dreaming!

Making a mold for pouring plaster

If for all sorts of different shells, fruits and bugs you can find a form and there is no point in making it, then for some details, such as grapes, it is easier to make the basis yourself than to try to find it.

Of course, they can not be cast, but rolled out of putty, but it will look somewhat worse, since this material is more porous when dried.

In general, with a certain skill, you can make any shapes you want using ready-made figurines. We bought one, and then poured out at least ten! And if you want, give them as gifts, or make panels if you want...

Well, let's get started. If we are talking about casting a grape berry, then you need to first roll it out of a thick putty mixture mixed with PVA glue, in the following proportions:

• Finishing putty – 0.5 kg;
• PVA glue – 1 tablespoon;
• Water – 100 grams.

Knead the thick mass, pouring water gradually. Since we gave its quantity approximately, because it can differ significantly in use with different types putties.

After mixing, form a grape and leave it to dry for about a day. It should not burst, since the mass with the addition of PVA becomes quite resistant to cracking.

By the way, in the same top picture with shells, you can see the wall below, decorated using the technique of decorative strokes. So they need to be made with just such a mixture, based on PVA.

Well, is the grape dry? Let's make the form. For this we need:

• 0.5 liters of silicone;
• Plywood box;
• Self-tapping screws;
• Brush.

Liquid silicone is sold in construction stores, and you can choose any box, you will put a grape in it and fill it with the silicone mixture.

The main thing is that it can be easily disassembled, and then reassembled with self-tapping screws, and the holes can be covered with a mixture of silicone. This is necessary so that you can then easily remove the finished form without damaging it. If you don’t find a suitable box, you can assemble it from sheets of plywood.

We'll show you step by step photos using the example of filling a figurine, and you can already put whatever you want there. It’s important to understand the sequence, that’s all. And the amount of silicone may be different. A grape needs 100 grams, and an owl shown below already needs 1 liter.

So:

Now let's move on to the most interesting part, forming alabaster figures with your own hands.

How to make alabaster mixture for bas-reliefs

If you are using silicone molds, you do not need to lubricate them with anything. But if you pour gypsum into a plastic bag, then you need to thoroughly lubricate it with sunflower oil.

We make the filling mixture like this:

• 2 parts plaster
• 1 part water

Pour the powder into the water gradually, stirring constantly, avoiding the formation of lumps.

There is no need to stir too intensively, there is no point, you will only oversaturate the substance with oxygen and the finished figurine may be covered with bubbles.

Then pour it into the chosen form, flush with its edge. And you rest for about a day.

In general, plaster sets much earlier. But the longer the figurine stays in shape, the stronger it will be and the chance of damaging it when removing it will be zero.

We attach a bas-relief to the wall

Now the finished composition needs to be fixed on the wall or on a piece of drywall if you want to make a removable bas-relief. In any case, they are attached in the same way. You can attach them using liquid silicone or simple putty.

The main thing here is this: to cover the gaps between the wall (plasterboard) and the figure so that it becomes a single conglomerate. This can also be done with putty.

If there are any irregularities, they must be carefully removed with an abrasive tape. And then you cover the finished painting water-based paint in a couple of layers.

Pure white compositions look best against the same background; this is a classic option. But you can paint in any colors you like, but only then, on top of a layer of white paint.

Bas-relief based on poured molds

And here we will list everything that may be needed for this particular type of panel:

• Alabaster mixture
• Forms
• The base is made of plasterboard (if it is assumed according to your idea)
• Putty (or silicone glue)
• Water-based paint

We have already written above how to make an alabaster mixture, so we won’t repeat ourselves, it’s better to give you some important recommendations related to the process.

If you have come up with any composition, then do not rush to immediately glue the elements to the wall.

It's better to lay them out on the floor first and see if they look good. After all, it is not good to remove and re-glue the blanks several times, they will get dirty and more layers of paint will be needed later.

In addition to elements poured into molds, you can add to your composition various materials. Let's say, if you are making a picture with shells, then you can glue regular crushed stone to the wall and paint it white. This will add volume and the picture will look much more interesting.

Bas-relief from ready-made figurines

You will need:

• Picture frame;
• Profile;
• Self-tapping screws;
• Drywall;
• Putty;
• Silicone glue;
• Statuette;
• Decorative elements to choose from;
• Water-based paint.

Panels with ancient figures must be done within some framework. You can’t just hang it on the wall, it will look ugly. What can you do?

You can attach a picture frame directly to the wall, level the inside with putty, forming a single whole, then attach a pedestal for the statue (for this it is convenient to use profiles covered with plasterboard), which you also putty.

Then place the figurine on the glue and go through all the cracks again so that it looks cast. You can add various elements to the space in the frame: pebbles, shells, columns (you can buy them in pet supply departments, there are many different decorations for aquariums in the form of castles and other suitable style beauty).

And then you just cover everything with paint, including the frame. If necessary, not even two, but three layers. It’s nice that this bas-relief with your own hands looks simply amazing, but in fact, for beginners this is quite a feasible task.

Bas-relief – painting made from putty

You will need:

• PVA putty mixture;
• Water-based paint;
• Artistic talent.

But here everything is in your hands, and in the literal sense of the word. There is no special technique that can be given and anyone can do it, even without the skill.

The only thing we can say is that you need to make a bas-relief with your own hands from putty in stages.

If you put a large piece on the wall at once, it simply won't hold up. The pattern is formed gradually, increasing as it dries. And of course, use a PVA-based mixture recipe.

You coat the finished panel with paint and you can invite guests to show off!

Bas-relief of rag flowers

You will need:

• Fabric flowers or fir cones
• Liquid alabaster mixture
• Silicone glue
• Water-based paint

The alabaster mixture needs to be made a little thinner than for filling the figures. You dip the pieces into it and leave them to dry. When they dry, dip them a second time so that the figure acquires a uniform and monolithic color.

Then you attach them to the wall with glue, and it’s easier to paint them with a spray can, matte paint. Since they are quite fluffy and fiddling with a brush is not very convenient in this case.

Such flowers do not oblige you to adhere to a strictly defined interior style. For example, if you are making Aphrodite, then you need to duplicate the columns or the Greek fresco somewhere.

And in this case, everything will be in harmony: bas-reliefs, any paintings on the walls, any design of kitchen furniture, framed photos, etc.

In conclusion: how to care for bas-reliefs

No matter how much you disturb the PVA, the homemade bas-relief, sooner or later, begins to lose its appearance. Gaps will form between it and the wall and this is normal. You only need to occasionally cover the cracks and touch up these areas.

Well that's it! You know how to make a bas-relief with your own hands from plaster, and all you need to do is start taking action.

Colorful bas-reliefs - three-dimensional stucco paintings - can rarely be seen on the walls and ceilings of private houses and apartments. Price self made for sculpting and painting sculptural panels is too high and the services of masters are not available to everyone. Therefore, an ordinary homeowner who wants to decorate their home in this way has no choice but to make a bas-relief on the wall with their own hands. But since not all people are endowed with artistic abilities, we propose to consider simplified techniques for creating such images.

Casting stucco moldings

To sculpt a bas-relief decoration on an entire wall, shown in the photo below, you need to have drawing skills, since its outline is first applied to the surface. If you are talented in another area, then the solution is simple: make silicone molds, cast plaster decorations in them and stick them on the walls.

Reference. Of course, you can go a simpler route: buy at affordable price decorative elements moldings made from modern materials– polyurethane or foam. But it is much more attractive and pleasant to create an individual pattern to suit your taste, suitable for the design of the room.

Task number one is the production of a three-dimensional prototype - a counter-relief, the basis for the future form. As a rule, the wall details of the landscape are various flowers, vines and other elements of nature, which look equally good in any room - kitchen, bedroom or living room. A prototype of a pattern you like can be made in the following ways:

• mold from plasticine or clay;
• carve from wood;
• transfer the contours of the picture onto paper and give them relief using gypsum plaster, as shown in the video at the end of the section:
• finally, apply ready-made convex images and figures.

This is what a silicone mold looks like

Note. You can involve all family members in sculpting the counter-relief, including a child who knows how to handle plasticine well.

Now you need to purchase silicone with a hardening catalyst, the amount of which depends on the size of the resulting sculpture, and then proceed according to the following instructions:

1. Make a bath for pouring, the sides of which are 1 cm higher than the prototype. The simplest option– lay the counter-relief on the glass and sculpt plasticine sides around it.
2. Mix silicone with catalyst in the proportions indicated on the package. To control the quality of mixing, you can add a little food coloring to the solution. Pour it into the bath.
3. After waiting for it to harden, remove the silicone mold and remove the flash around the edges with scissors.
4. Prepare a solution of gypsum or alabaster (the consistency is like liquid sour cream) and fill the recess in the mold, remove the protruding part with a spatula. Allow 10-15 minutes to harden.
5. Remove the finished bas-relief, process its edges and glue it to the wall, ceiling or home fireplace.

Pouring the prototype with silicone solution

Advice. If your pattern has a thin and elongated shape, then after pouring the plaster, carefully lay 1-2 pieces of steel wire along the entire length for strength.

How a bas-relief is cast from plaster with your own hands is demonstrated in the video:

Applying a relief image - master class

If you are okay with drawing and have a desire to become a novice sculptor, then you don’t have to make molds to apply the bas-relief. Create a three-dimensional pattern of flowers directly on the wall using this technology:

1. Clean and level the wall surface. Treat it with a deep penetration primer and wait 30 minutes for it to dry.
2. Prepare gypsum plaster and apply it in an even layer 3-4 mm thick. There is no need to make the surface smooth.
3. Taking advantage simple tool– with a plastic spoon, spatula and trowel, make the desired pattern. The photo below shows an example - an ornament of blooming roses.
4. When the plaster has hardened, carefully remove the protruding edges of the resulting petals with a wide spatula. If necessary, refine the drawing with a stationery knife.
5. Cover the bas-relief with primer. To avoid any gaps, it is recommended to add a little dye to it.

The pattern is formed with a regular spoon

Note. Apply the drawing completely, without leaving empty space. The sizes of the elements do not matter and can be different, the main thing is that the overall picture looks good.

Upon completion, the finished bas-relief remains to be painted with a brush. The ends of the petals can be tinted with a different color using a wide flat brush, as shown in the master class in the video:

We create a full-fledged bas-relief

This is the most complex technique, requiring not only the ability to draw, but also some skills in applying textured plaster. You need to start work by choosing a picture and a place on the wall where it will be applied. volumetric form. You should correctly assess the illumination of the area, since the bas-relief looks great in the interior thanks to the play of light and shadow. If you can’t find a good place, then make a picture on any wall, but then install 2-3 lamps above it, as shown in the photo.

Advice. When applying a large relief pattern, the master is close to the surface and cannot see how the entire picture changes during the work process. Therefore, it is important for a beginning sculptor to learn to evaluate the correctness of actions and often look at the result of their work from the outside.

To create a bas-relief, use the following technique:

1. Transfer the outlines of the selected pattern to the wall surface. There are 2 ways: simply draw them with a pencil or copy them onto transparent film. The latter is applied to the wall where it has already been applied. thin layer putty or Marseilles wax, and the contour is squeezed out along the lines with a slightly pointed object.
2. Give the picture volume by applying gypsum plaster (consistency thick) to the surface. This should be done in several layers and without haste, forming the outline of each part with a spatula or other convenient tool.
3. Since the solution hardens for a long time (about 3 hours), give the bas-relief clarity by removing excess plaster with a utility knife or narrow spatula. If you removed too much, then correct it with finishing putty.
4. Once the raised design has hardened, remove any remaining sharp edges and sand the pattern.

Advice. Do not use solutions of pure plaster and alabaster for application; they harden too quickly and do not allow you to adjust the details of the design. Don’t forget to prepare the wall surface – level it and coat it with primer.

When the bas-relief is ready, it can be painted in the desired color (usually white) or painted, creating a real picture. How the master does this is shown in the video:

Conclusion

Creating a bas-relief on your own is not an easy task. Be patient and take time, and be careful while working. Without experience, you should not immediately take on a large image; first practice and apply a small 3D drawing on a board or other flat surface. This will allow you to understand the nuances of forming small parts and master the technique of working with the solution.