To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other water intake points, and significantly simplifies the installation process. Flexible eyeliner also used during installation gas equipment. It differs from similar water devices in its manufacturing technology and special requirements security.

Characteristics and types

Flexible liner for connecting plumbing is a hose different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Thanks to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard to reach places. For protection flexible hose The upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made from the following materials:

• Aluminum. Such models can withstand no more than +80 °C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity Aluminum braiding is prone to rust.
• Stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water line is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
• Nylon. This braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 °C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

The fasteners used are nut-nut and nut-fitting pairs, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different permissible temperatures differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used for connecting to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - with hot ones.

When choosing a water line, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that prevents the rubber from releasing toxic components during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connected gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible hoses. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixation, end steel or aluminum reinforcement is used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

• PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
• made of synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
• bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Santekhkomplekt holding offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and devices for connecting it to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials from famous foreign and domestic producers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, each client is assigned a personal manager. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.

Drainage is a drainage and drainage measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the site for a long time, the soil becomes gleyed, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (get wet), you need to urgently take action and drain the site.

Causes of soil waterlogging

There are several reasons for soil waterlogging:

• clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
• aquifer in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
• high groundwater table;
• technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects) that interfere with natural drainage;
• disruption of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
• The landscape area is located in a lowland, ravine, or hollow. In this case, precipitation and the influx of water from higher places play a big role.

What are the consequences of excess moisture in the soil?

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

• the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content increases carbon dioxide, which leads to disruption of air exchange processes, water regime and nutrition regime in the soil;
• oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
• the supply of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for absorption;
• intensive breakdown of proteins occurs and, accordingly, decay processes are activated.

Plants can tell you at what level groundwater lies

Take a close look at the flora of your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the ground water layers are located:

• perched water - it is best to dig a reservoir in this place;
• at a depth of up to 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges grow - bladderwrack, holly, foxtail, Langsdorff's reed;
• at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass, ;
• from 1 m to 1.5 m – favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse peas, rank;
• from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

• with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow in high beds;
• depth of water layer up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetables, grains, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
• if the groundwater is more than 2 m deep, fruit trees can be grown;
• optimal depth of groundwater for agriculture– from 3.5 m.

Is site drainage necessary?

Write down your observations for at least some time. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along the bypass channel, rather than allowing it to flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?

Or is it worth doing drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

A specialist will give you the exact answer, and we strongly recommend calling him. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness on this issue.

Upon completion of technological and production tasks related to the arrangement sewer system V apartment building, industrial building, as well as in private households, it is required to test the involved system using the forced flow method. This task used to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire involved sewer part and a system testing report internal sewerage and drains will be material evidence of the work on acceptance of the object.

A visual inspection should be accompanied by inclusion in the test report of internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the “D” series appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary systems of a building”, in lately the new updated working edition according to SNiP 3.05.01-85 is applicable.

A leaky metal barrel makes a great mobile place for making compost.
Compost is usually prepared in special containers, boxes or piles. Cooking time from two - three months up to two years, depends on the volume of contents and the number of its transshipments.

To create our own unique place and method of preparing compost, we need a pipe large diameter. Hammer and chisel (instead of chisel better ax) we cut out both bottoms in the leaky barrel. Now the pipe is ready.

For the good ones country houses or country ones you will always need to buy new furniture. Furniture for the dacha is bought in the same place where kitchen tables are sold. After all kitchen table- Very important element interior country house. Choosing quality furniture to the kitchen, you take care of your wife, who can easily prepare you many delicious and healthy dinners.

Using a grinder (angle grinder), we make two cuts into two unequal parts, put them “on the butt” and connect them using a strong synthetic rope, but wire is more reliable. The result is a new, easily detachable pipe. This is a container for compost. It is necessary to make several holes - “pockets” for air access.

They put there: trimmed branches, mown weeds and grass, turf, collected leaves, sawdust, paper waste, rags, and so on. The process of compost formation goes faster if the container is covered with a lid, and to increase the temperature inside, it is necessary to paint it dark color. And also periodically water the contents with a solution of ammonium nitrate ( matchbox per bucket of water) and use organic waste: leftovers from dining table, fish waste during processing and so on, but this is provided that your unique container is tightly closed.

The advantages over a compost pit are obvious:

• maneuverability of the object, it is enough to place it near the treated area and there is no need to carry the selected roots, sod land to the place compost heap;


• ease of manufacture; no complex engineering solutions are required when marking and cutting;


• availability of the source material (for worms and bacteria from below) and for the gardener - just untie the rope (wire) and in front of you are 20 buckets (200 liter barrel) of the most beautiful compost loved by plants. And if there are two or more barrels...

How to do proper compost? At the dacha for compost, I simply dug an iron barrel into the ground. Is this correct? and got the best answer

Answer from Yatyan Vedenin[guru]
Very bad.
How to make compost
Set up a compost maker (see below) in a designated area of ​​the garden.
Place approx. 20 cm of "brown" material for drainage and ventilation.
Add to the compost, evenly alternating: crushed dry “brown” materials (tree and shrub branches, paper, cardboard, sawdust, bark, straw, hay, shavings, wood ash, dry leaves); moisture-containing “green” materials (kitchen waste, grass clippings, weeds, algae, tops, green manure); compost accelerators (EM effective microorganisms, special preparations for accelerating compost, rotted manure of herbivores and bird droppings, urine, ready-made compost, earthworms, garden soil etc.). Plants rich in useful substances: nettle, comfrey and other green manure crops, yarrow, dandelion (not roots or flowers!) and others. The alternation of “green” and “brown” layers ensures the penetration of air into the compost heap, uniform and balanced maturation of the compost in the container, and subsequently - structural, fertile, correct compost. Never push or compact the contents as this will interfere with air circulation in the compost bin. Over time, the mixture will go down and waste can be added to the container. When compost bin has already been filled to the top several times, you can stop filling it and move on to the next one.
From time to time, stir and shovel the preparing compost with a pitchfork for better air access and uniform moistening of the compost. Keep the ripening compost in the bin moist by watering. However, avoid stagnant water in the compost bin. Unpleasant smell ammonia (rotten eggs, rotting) from the compost bin indicates an excess of “green” materials and a lack of oxygen. Add "brown" waste to the compostarium and stir the mixture.

Reply from Maria[guru]
It is possible so.

Reply from Viruina lily[newbie]
It’s better to fence off the area, put a wooden pallet on the ground, put waste on it all summer, and don’t forget to water it. If you're not too lazy, turn it several times a season, that's all)

Reply from Mityai Bukhankin[guru]
Why did you have to dig in? What would also rot?

Reply from Olga[guru]
How to take it out? I have two boxes without a front wall and you can drive up in a wheelbarrow WHILE one pile is ripening under a black film, the other is filling

Reply from Elena Orlova[guru]
I have a barrel just next to the fence. So I fill it full and close it for the winter, but I don’t dig it in, it’s already heavy and they won’t drag it away, but if they want, they’ll turn it over and throw out the contents, if someone wants to steal the barrel, it’s really easier to turn it over and pour the contents onto the film. and then to the ridges. and it’s inconvenient to scoop out a barrel with a shovel, especially if less than half of the compost remains,

Reply from Keymaster of Fate[guru]
Wrong. How to take it out? I have a holey one trash container. I turned everything around. In addition, the temperature in the air is higher than in the ground.

Reply from Alla Tarasova[guru]
No, that's wrong. There must be access to air and rainwater, without stagnation at the bottom of the barrel. Otherwise, instead of composting, rotting occurs, which will result in substances harmful to the soil (acids, etc.)

Reply from Yatyana Vasilievna[guru]
The barrel should have no bottom, and there is no need to dig it in.

Reply from Alla Lebedeva[guru]
I have one container buried in the ground, and next to it there is a prefabricated plastic composter - I bought it specially.

Reply from Tatiana M[guru]
Compost heap. Do-it-yourself organic fertilizer (video)

Reply from 2 answers[guru]

Hello! Here is a selection of topics with answers to your question: How to make the right compost? At the dacha for compost, I simply dug an iron barrel into the ground. Is this correct?

Are you against mineral chemical fertilizers? Do you want to minimize the use of chemical fertilizers on your garden plot? Then this article is for you. Look around. Right under your feet is what correct use will become humus, which can be scattered in the garden, vegetable garden and flower beds.

Interesting fact:
Already in the 10th century, the secrets of making compost
were known Slavic tribes,
for example, the Polabian Slavs.

Compost is a natural universal organic fertilizer , which any gardener, gardener and summer resident can obtain without unnecessary material costs and without much difficulty. Compost has a beneficial effect on the structure and fertility of the soil. You just need to know how to cook it correctly.

Rule 1
Where and what is the best way to prepare compost?

There are two options:

Compost pit/pile
Compost bin or barrel

Advantages of a compost pit/heap

No need to search additional materials and there is no need to build anything. Just dig a hole no more than 0.5 m deep and 1.5 m x 1.5 m in size and put organic remains (kitchen waste, weeded weeds, fallen leaves, etc.) into this hole (over time you will get a heap).

If desired, when the hole is filled level with the ground, you can build on the walls. I have them about 0.5 m high. However, the compost heap has long surpassed this mark. But I didn’t add anything anymore.

If the compost pit/heap is supported by walls, then inside the pit will be created comfortable conditions for the work of anaerobic organisms that live only in the absence of atmospheric oxygen

Disadvantages of a compost pit/heap

There is a compost pit on my property that has already turned into a heap. However, it is bulky and looks untidy (fortunately it is located behind the barn and hidden from view). And most importantly, it’s impossible for me to shovel it.

It will not be possible to obtain high-quality compost in a compost pit in 1 year. It will take at least 3 years. But in it it is visible and invisible. The worms are free there; they grow long and fat. It is in the compost pit that my husband digs for worms when he goes fishing. And the quality of catching crucian carp with such a worm is excellent.

(pelvis diameter - 40 cm)

Compost bin or barrel

I also placed a box and two barrels of compost in the garden. It's convenient. While plant residues for compost are stored in one container, the compost matures under a lid in another container, and the finished compost is removed from the third container for gardening needs.

Adapted the leaky one for compost metal barrel and cracked plastic. I also punched holes in the plastic bottom.

The height of the barrels is no more than 70 cm, so that, with my short stature, it would be convenient for me to put plant debris in them and pour out slops.

My compost bin is constructed from boards. But you can make it from cement bonded particle boards 20 mm thick or metal mesh.

Advantages of barrels or boxes

Can be placed anywhere in the garden/vegetable garden.
Thanks to its compactness, it will not take up much space.
Looks more aesthetically pleasing than a pit/pile.
Thanks to the holes and cracks, we get a kind of ventilation, which means that enough air enters the future compost, which is so necessary for the life of microorganisms.
Ready compost can be taken from the lower layers (through pre-made holes) as needed.
In a barrel or box, the compost does not dry out and is not washed away.
A barrel or box with mature compost can be adapted for growing cucumbers or zucchini. It turns out to be a peculiar high bed.

Rule 2
What can you put in compost?

1. All plant residues and weeds from the beds and garden, except:

* weeds with ripened seeds
* diseased plants
* weeds treated with herbicides

I put plant residues unsuitable for compost in a special pile, hidden in the backyard behind the fence. Or I take you out of the area.

2. Mown grass, fallen leaves, straw, sawdust and, if available, peat.

By the way, about fallen leaves.
Leaf litter significantly improves the quality of compost. But it all depends on the type of wood. For example, linden leaves, containing a lot of lime, quickly decompose and form neutral humus, thereby enriching the compost.

3. Household (kitchen) waste, slops.

If slops from the kitchen are regularly poured into a barrel of compost, then you don’t have to specifically water the barrel. And this requires up to 3-4 buckets of water per day.

4. Ash and, if available, bird droppings.

The alternation of layers occurs naturally, which has a beneficial effect on the compost. The fact is that vegetable peelings, weeded weeds, and mown grass contain a lot of nitrogen, sawdust contains carbon, and ash contains potassium and microelements.

Manure (slurry) I don't put it in compost. Firstly, we don’t have this “good”. Secondly, with manure there is a risk of introducing diseases and pests into the compost. Here you need to ensure that the compost rots for 2, or maybe 3, years, depending on the conditions.

It is not necessary to add soil to the compost heap. This can lower the rotting temperature and thereby slow down the composting process of the organics.

I wish you rich harvests,
Katerina Shlykova

Quoting and partial copying articles and stories, possibly indicating the source in the form active link to the corresponding page of the site.

In order to make a compost barrel with your own hands you needed:

two plastic barrels of 200 liters each, a metal pipe (of such a diameter that it does not bend under the weight of the barrels), PVC pipe, 4 door curtains, 2 bolts, M12 bolts and nuts, wooden beams 6x6 cm, and slats 6x4 cm.

Installation of a “compost barrel”

In the barrel in the middle of the side, I used a jigsaw to cut out a 36x28 cm window for loading raw materials. From the inside, I screwed a strip of metal to one of the long sides (photo 1) - this is a stopper so that the door does not fall inside the container.

The cut piece was secured to the curtains (opposite the metal strip), a handle was attached to it (photo 2) I added two latches to hold the lid closed. I used a drill to drill chains of holes d 12 mm across the entire surface of the container at a distance of 10 cm from each other. About half made holes inserted M 12 bolts 10 cm long (photo 3) (as long as possible) and secured them with nuts so that the ends protruded inside the container. Prepared the second barrel in the same way.

On metal pipe You should put on a piece of PVC pipe to avoid damaging the edges of the barrels when rotating.

At the ends of the containers I drilled holes in the center and inserted a pipe, which I fixed horizontally on a wooden T-shaped base 110 cm high from beams and slats in advance drilled holes suitable diameter.

Loading compost into a homemade barrel

For compost I use chicken manure, straw and a little soil (you can use dry leaves, grass cut from the area, chopped eggshells, food waste) - I load them into barrels and moisten them with water.

I rotate the drums every three days - the pins perfectly loosen and mix the biomass, which gradually decomposes under the influence of heat and moisture. With the usual composting method in boxes knocked together from boards, “ripening” takes from 6 to 9 months, but in my device it takes 1-1.5 months.

Container for making compost with your own hands - photo

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