How to assemble a wardrobe in the hallway. Convenient DIY wardrobe in the hallway

   Floor: -    Walls: -    Ceiling: -    Wardrobe: -

30-10-2016, 16:04

Target: to place in a narrow passage and minimal hallway space a place to place current clothes, shoes, a small pile of accessories and a mirror for a family of 4 people. Moreover, do this as inexpensively and quickly as possible, in short, assemble the wardrobe with your own hands.

Attention: the calculation is made for a separate case. For other cabinet models, the scheme is the same, the only difference is in the costs and amount of material. To visualize and calculate dimensions, it is convenient to use our online wardrobe designer.


Tools you will need:
  • drill for confirmation
  • square
  • roulette
  • screwdriver
  • level
  • pencil
  • straight arms

Cost

  • cash - about 11,000 rubles
  • temporary - 1 day

Materials

We go to Leroy Merlin, buy components there and cut them as needed. If Leroy is not in your city, you will have to look in local stores.

  • Guide set 1383 mm - 1 piece
  • Sliding door, 2455x604 mm - 1 piece
  • Furniture part laminated chipboard, 1200x300x16 mm - 3 pieces, sawed exactly in half
  • Furniture part laminated chipboard, 2700x400x16 mm - 4 pieces, we saw them in height, as well as two pieces for parts with widths of 350 and 366 mm.
  • Furniture part laminated chipboard, 2700x300x16 mm - 1 piece
  • Sectoral laminated chipboard shelf, 350x350x16 mm - 6 pcs.
  • Schlegel - 5 meters, door stops - 2 pcs.
  • Confirmats (a lot), 16mm screws (a bunch) and furniture corners, 30 pieces

Assembly

We do the preliminary assembly of the corner elements. We combine sheets with a width of 350 and 366 mm, as indicated in the figure, and first tighten them with confirmations. It’s convenient to do this on an editing table, but in the absence of one, you can also use stools. Here we attach the sectors with 2 confirmata on each side. To ensure an even placement of the confirmations, it is recommended to make preliminary markings. For a wide sheet, one confirmation per sector is sufficient for now. We repeat the procedure on a symmetrical element.


WITH assembled structure remove the wide one (side) laminated chipboard sheet(it will interfere) and place the half-assembled structures against the wall. This should be done carefully so as not to scratch the ceiling or tear off the sector elements.

Again, more specifically, we assemble the side elements. At this stage, you can attach the entire structure to the floor and ceiling, if you are confident in the accuracy of the markings. Assembling a wardrobe with your own hands does not tolerate mistakes. When fastening, be sure to check the vertical installation

We install a vertical sheet 30 cm wide in the center of the structure. We install rectangular shelves, securing them with furniture corners to vertical risers, given that these shelves are installed on the same level with the sector elements, confirmations from the sectors will be hidden.

Now you can finally attach the structure to the walls and ceiling. The structure itself is quite massive and a pair of fasteners for each vertical element is enough - a total of 6 pieces.

We install the guide under the clothes and screw the hooks for clothes. The quantity is optional, but in practice a couple of hooks are enough in the corner, and 3-4 inside half the cabinet.
Cut the guides to the required length. You will need to saw off half of the top one - in connection with one door it is not needed, and it will not physically fit. The top can be secured, the bottom can be simply placed for now, its fastening will come later. Don't forget to put door stoppers in the bottom guide

We install the door in its place. We check that the door fits well into the upper guide and does not fall out of it. To lift the door, you can place a laminated chipboard strip under the bottom guide - sheets 100 mm wide are sold in Leroy. It can be raised to a small height by adjusting the rollers. We control the vertical installation of the door and finally secure the lower guide.

Now you can attach a schlegel and a mirror to the door if desired, install the door in place and use the screws on the lower rollers to adjust its position relative to the cabinet body.


Amazing! So we assembled the wardrobe with our own hands. Over the course of a year of operation, it performed just fine.


   Floor: -    Walls: -    Ceiling: -    Wardrobe: -

1-05-2017, 17:29

A wardrobe in the hallway is one of the most necessary pieces of furniture. What should it be the right wardrobe inside? You need to consider who and what things you will need a closet for. For some, shoe shelves and a couple of hangers will be enough; others plan to store bedding, bags, and even washing machine.


Here, for example, everything is arranged not only rationally, but also using unusual shelves, for example, a dynamic shelf in which any small item can be conveniently reached.

Proper filling of the wardrobe

There are no specific rules. The main thing is to think through everything in advance and draw a sketch. You can even make a closet yourself using ready-made drawings. It is important to consider the size of your hallway.

For a small family or even one person, a single-door wardrobe is suitable. But the number of sections is at least two. The cabinet should be divided into sections. This is a convenient place to leave your shoes or even sports equipment, such a closet resembles a small room, but it takes up little space.

For your convenience, the interior of the closet in the hallway should contain hangers, shelves for shoes, drawers for gloves, hats, mittens, possibly stands for hats and umbrellas. If the hallway is spacious enough, a sliding wardrobe can replace an entire dressing room with a mirror and space for changing clothes.

The width of the shelves is at least 80-90 cm, but there is also an option for narrow shelves (40 cm) if there is no space at all in the hallway.

For outerwear: coats, raincoats, fur coats, the height of the closet should not be less than 140 cm. It is most practical to place the crossbar (it serves as a hanger holder) not deep into the closet, but across it.

This closet not only has convenient shelves for clothes and accessories, but also decorative corner shelf for little things.

Practical wardrobe inside - features

There are much more filling options for two-door and three-door cabinets than for one-door cabinets. Items designed for storage may include bedding, seasonal clothing, tablecloths, towels, magazines, and even built-in sections for jewelry and beauty supplies.


Metal cabinets are very convenient; dirt and debris do not accumulate in them; moreover, they are very light, which is very important for complex structures.

The width of the shelves varies from forty centimeters and more.

The arrangement of things in the closet can be done according to a very convenient scheme:

  • In the middle are frequently worn items so that they are always at eye level.
  • On top are rare and unnecessary items, such as hats or carnival costumes.
  • The most bulky and heaviest things, such as suitcases, are stored at the bottom.

What cabinet filling should I choose?

A corner closet occupies a non-standard hallway area. A corner closet is a mini-wardrobe; a lot of things, especially non-standard sizes, fit in the occupied space.

A straight cabinet holds less space, but it is easier to fit into the overall interior of the hallway.

Make sure that the closet does not interfere with the passage to other rooms. The hallway should be comfortable and spacious.
Internal elements are made from metal frame to make it stronger and more reliable. Check that the doors move smoothly and without jerking.

You can put boxes in large cabinets, like in this photo, then the cabinet will look neater.

Such a cabinet is sometimes inconvenient due to its narrow code and rather voluminous structure.

Pay attention to whether the lighting is located here; sometimes there is not enough light in the hallway to find something or choose an image.

To store men's belts and ties, special pull-out holders or shelves with cells are used as the internal filling of the cabinet, which are attached to the sides and are very convenient to use. Shoe boxes (nets) are practical, but they should not be located close to the floor (dirt accumulates under them and is inconvenient to clean). The width of the mesh can vary from 30 cm (for a pair of shoes) to 100 cm or more.

Built-in wardrobes in the hallway are quite convenient. The top bar goes under the ceiling. There is no free space left on the sides either. Thus, the entire area is used to the maximum.

It is not very convenient to place the crossbar deep into it; there is not enough room for outerwear. But then the closet may not be very deep.

A very rational idea to put a washing machine in the hallway closet. Often in small apartments this is the only place where it will fit.

And here the ironing board is also included.


There are suitcases on top here, although here you need to be sure that they are not very heavy.

Wooden and pull-out shelves for shoes are not always practical, because they often get dirty and sand accumulates there.

The pull-out metal shelves are very convenient for storing shoes, so they will also dry properly.

In any case, we must remember that the wardrobe is designed for more than one year. Therefore, the design of the internal space must take into account the perspective and maximum filling, as well as the features of the hallway in which it will stand.



In the latter version, they are very conveniently located and closed cabinets and open hangers where you can hang casual clothes.


A mandatory attribute of any hallway is a comfortable, functional closet.

If you have experience in carpentry, you can make a piece of furniture yourself.

This will help you save money and create a cabinet that will decorate your interior.

Plus, the hallway is the first room that your guests notice. And its main decoration can be your masterpiece!

Before developing a cabinet design, you need to clearly determine what items it is intended for and how many things will be stored. The dimensions of the room are also taken into account.

Species

The main purpose of a wardrobe in the hallway is to store shoes and clothes, hats and even household appliances. There are the following types of wardrobes:

  • free-standing. Roomy and massive, fully equipped: there are walls, ceilings, floors, doors. The design is easy to disassemble and transport;
  • corner. Suitable for small rectangular and square rooms. The back wall can be designed for various shelves;
  • built-in. They have internal partitions, side doors and walls, and shelves. There are no back walls or ceilings.

For one person or a small family, a one-door wardrobe is enough. The number of sections is two. Internal filling should provide shelves for shoes or shoe boxes, drawers for hats and small wardrobe items, stands for hats and umbrellas. You need hanger bars and hooks for everyday clothes, and a mirror is a must.

When creating a diagram need to be taken into account:

  • the width of the shelves is about 80-90 cm. If the room is very small, you can make narrow shelves from 40 cm;
  • the crossbar for hangers must be placed across the cabinet;
  • the height of the wardrobe for upper clothing is at least 140 cm;
  • There should be decorative shelves for small items.

In large hallways there are two-door or three-door wardrobes. They are convenient for storing not only seasonal shoes, hats and accessories, but also bed linen, towels, and magazines. The width of the shelves is variable - from 40 cm or more. The height between them is from 250 to 350 mm.

Important! The greater the depth of the shelves, the greater the distance between them and vice versa.

Scheme and drawing

When drawing up a diagram, you need to take measurements of the parts and draw everything on paper.

Reference. Certain rules there is no drawing up of diagrams. It is advisable to make a cabinet design using ready-made drawings that are easy to find on the Internet. Or you can draw a sketch of the future product yourself, carefully thinking through all the details.

The material will be cut according to the drawings.

Sequence of circuit development:

  1. Determine the dimensions of the cabinet, taking into account the location. Standard length wall material is usually 277 cm (based on the size of the apartment’s ceiling).
  2. Sketch general view products.
  3. Divide the interior space into vertical and horizontal sections.
  4. Decide in which compartments to install drawers.
  5. Determine the dimensions of the doors of the sections that will be closed (if any), the location of the mezzanines.

It is necessary to mark the ends for gluing furniture edge tape, select accessories. Put all dimensions on the drawing. To make the task easier, you can use the free computer program for design - for example, SweetHome 3D.

According to the selected sizes you need to prepare 6 important details housings:

  • top and bottom bars;
  • back walls (2 pieces);
  • side walls(not required if we are talking about a built-in wardrobe).

As side panels, back wall, bottom and cover of cabinet apartment walls and floor can be used. This will help save on materials.

Important! If the walls are made of plasterboard, this solution is not acceptable.

What to make it out of so that it is cheap and beautiful?

The construction market offers a wide range of materials with which it is possible to implement any design solution. It is not necessary to make a cabinet from solid wood. It is expensive and difficult to process. It is better to buy practical, inexpensive materials that are easy to work with.

Laminated particle boards – best option for making a piece of furniture with your own hands.

Advantages of chipboard:

  • affordable price;
  • strength and reliability;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • ease of processing.

Wood boards lightweight, so they do not require fittings or reinforced fasteners. A wide selection of textures will allow you to realize any design ideas.

Plywood sheets durable, lightweight and dimensional stable. The material is several times cheaper than wood.

MDF panels They are an analogue of chipboard, and are inferior to them in fiber pattern and quality. Such furniture is less expensive. MDF with imitation is available for sale valuable species tree.

Advantages:

  • easy processing;
  • fire resistance;
  • moisture resistance (the material does not swell);
  • ample opportunities for creating furniture.

Fiberboards have excellent performance characteristics. For the manufacture of supporting structures of the cabinet, medium or medium fibreboard is suitable. high density.

The facade of the wardrobe can be made of wood, glass or chipboard sheets, MDF. Laminated panels with a mirror or regular surface, with tinted auto film, are suitable.

When choosing a material, take into account financial capabilities. If your budget allows, you can make a cabinet from natural wood. Mahogany is the most durable. Alternative options are beech, Karelian birch.

You need to purchase the necessary accessories:

  • end hangers;
  • euroscrews with plugs;
  • handles for doors and drawers;
  • guides for drawers.

The quantity and type will depend on the number of sections and drawers in the closet.

Important. The fittings must be high quality so that the doors do not jam.

Tools

Before starting work, it is advisable to prepare everything in advance necessary tools and inventory. Namely:

  • tape measure or ruler;
  • pencil or marker;
  • glue;
  • edge tape;
  • ratchet wrench;
  • screwdriver or drill;
  • pliers.

If you plan to cut cabinet blanks at home, you will need an electric jigsaw.

Step by step instructions

Blanks

Parts are cut according to ready-made drawings. If you have experience, you can handle this yourself. But after sawing the material with a jigsaw, chips may form.

It is advisable turn to professionals for cutting workpieces. The sheets will be cut beautifully and accurately, and there will be no jagged edges.

After cutting the parts, they are edged with furniture PVC tape. The edge is glued using an iron heated to a certain temperature.

Assembly Description

Preliminary markings for fasteners are carried out with maximum accuracy.

Important! The holes for the fastening elements must be located strictly in the middle of the thickness of the end of the workpiece, since the confirmations are screwed into the end.

Install the bottom and walls of the cabinet according to the diagram:

  1. Check the accuracy of the dimensions, put the walls and bottom in place.
  2. Make holes to fix the base and partition in the center.
  3. The base and central partition are secured. Confirmats are screwed into the bottom of the side walls. To protect them from exposure to moisture from the part that rests on the floor, use a waterproof profile.
  4. The upper shelves are mounted to give rigidity to the frame. A rear wall is installed for reinforcement.

Important! A screwdriver will not work to secure the cover. The fasteners are attached manually using pliers. Additionally tighten with a ratchet or hex wrench.

Proceed to installing the side shelves. They are secured with four confirmations (2 on each side).

If the side shelf is flush with the inner shelf or bottom, confirmations cannot be used.

They are fastened with dowels - wooden cylinders. They are inserted into pre-prepared recesses in the wall and pushed into the same holes in the shelf.

Door assembly begins with installation back door. Use a level to check whether the cabinet is aligned accurately. Secure the upper level by placing 2 supports and a running lower profile on it. To assemble the rear door you will need a set of fittings:

  • rear door running roller with and without trunnions;
  • 2 rear door corners;
  • 8 screws 4x25;
  • 10 screws 4x16;
  • 6 screws;
  • seal.

If glass or mirrors are to be inserted, install sections of seal along the length of the dividing profile. When installing parts made of chipboard, no seal is needed.

When assembling the door, the inserts are placed face down on the foam to avoid damage. Glass or mirror is installed in a horizontal dividing profile. When installing two glasses, the seal is placed on both sides.

The combined door is assembled using dividing profiles. A sealant is needed at the joints with the glass. The main door profile is attached to both sides of the door. If it is made of chipboard, use 4x25 screws. They are fixed to the connecting profile with screws using a screwdriver.

Important! One profile is fixed in a horizontal position. The second is based on the vertical position of the door.

The profile handle is installed on both sides, directing the bend to front side, controlling the tightness of the joints. If necessary, beat with a mallet and the joints are aligned along the entire length. The restrictive sealing corner of the rear door and the running roller without a trunnion are mounted on the handle-profile side.

The rear door is hung on the running profile and moved to the front door. The same set of fittings is prepared as for the back door. The front cabinet door is assembled in the sequence described above.

At the final stage, hangers and baskets are installed on the side walls. Check the functionality of the doors. They should open and close without extraneous sounds and easily.

Photos with design options and ideas

If you need to decide on the possible design of the final result, we recommend taking a closer look at the following photos:

Useful video

All stages of the process can be seen in the following video:

Conclusion

Thus, making a hallway cabinet with your own hands is a responsible and painstaking job that is carried out in stages. Select a product design; determine the filling; take measurements, draw up diagrams and drawings; buy materials; make blanks of parts and assemble the cabinet.

The main, and sometimes the only piece of furniture in the hallway is a storage closet, which often has a sliding wardrobe design. Some people buy a similar product ready for installation, while others, showing enviable ingenuity, patience and hard work, make it themselves. Home craftsmen deciding how to make a hallway cabinet with their own hands will have to decide on a number of points before starting assembly: its size, what material it will be made from, how much they are willing to spend on it cash etc.

What should the designer rely on?

When developing a built-in wardrobe for your apartment, its design is worked out in three directions, focusing on:

  • on functionality;
  • design;
  • engineering solution.

It turns out that in order to assemble a wardrobe in the hallway, made by yourself, you will need knowledge in the field of usability, creating an interior and furniture designs, as well as the practical skills of a home craftsman.

Functionality

Sliding wardrobes are a general name for furniture with sliding (sliding) doors; they can be installed separately (cabinet version), as well as built into niches or corners (cabinet and open-frame options). At the same time, they allow:

  1. Optimally organize living space, often occupying little-used areas or playing the role of zoning partitions.
  2. It is convenient to place things, guided by the principles of ergonomics, in all spatial directions: from floor to ceiling, completely along the width and depth of the niche. In addition, built-in furniture may have unusual sections for placing communication elements: electrical panels, ventilation ducts, etc.
  3. Avoid hard-to-reach areas (behind the side and rear walls, top and bottom) where dirt has accumulated over the years.

Design

Designing an installable furniture assembly, you can adapt it to any, even non-standard interior solutions, for any renovation. The variety of modern facade materials allows you to fit the cabinet, for example, into the high-tech style or the opposite baroque style, and by decorating the facade with original drawings, you will get a truly unique design solution. However, often a built-in wardrobe in a hallway has almost the entire outer surface covered with mirrors, which visually expand the limited space of a typical hallway, and are also convenient functional elements.

Engineering solutions

Collecting homemade cabinets coupe, or purchasing ready-made factory furniture models, pay attention to a number of important points:

  1. The design of sliding doors is the first thing that largely determines the design, functionality, and ease of use of the entire product. Today, the most popular system is with a lower support roller (single) and an upper auxiliary roller (double). This arrangement allows most of the weight of the door (reaches 150-180 kg) to be transferred to the lower support, which rolls almost on the floor, while the upper roller only has the function of vertically supporting the sliding leaf.
  2. Efficient use of internal space. It is important not only the quantity, purpose, dimensions, placement of compartments, but also the use of targeted accessories: baskets, pantographs, clothes rails, tie holders and others. Sufficient space should be allocated for each product, taking into account the necessary work area for retractable mechanisms.
  3. Interior lighting, which is not just done in the chosen place, it must correspond higher standards electrical and fire safety. It is recommended to install low-current low-voltage LED lamps or, as a last resort, halogen ones for a voltage of 12 V.

How to correctly perform measurements and calculations?

When preparing the design details of furniture elements, it is necessary to take the measurement stage especially seriously. A suitable niche is often adapted for a built-in wardrobe in the hallway, so an error in its measurements or calculations of the external dimensions of the furniture may then require significant alterations, and as a result, unforeseen financial costs.

Features of niche measurement

A niche, which is a natural architectural element of a building, is rarely geometrically ideal. This point should be carefully examined by displaying the errors of the walls in the drawing, in order to then obtain the dimensions of the “clean” opening. Necessary:

  • make sure there is no general curvature and local sagging on the walls, floor and ceiling, applying a rule or an even strip in the longitudinal and transverse directions, as well as crosswise along the planes;
  • determine, by measuring the diagonals of the opening, the parallelism of opposite surfaces, and their vertical and horizontal orientation using the usual bubble building level;
  • examine the corners of the niche. They often have fillets that will either have to be cut down or taken into account during calculations.

Calculation of overall and nodal dimensions

Developing a built-in furniture project requires the designer to have a certain amount of professional knowledge. It will be quite difficult to make competent calculations yourself, however, if you still decide to take such a step, you will have to take into account many engineering and practical aspects, as well as the features of source materials, mechanisms, and accessories from different manufacturers.

Furniture structures built into the hallway can have a practical standard depth of 60 cm, however, when the hallway is not wide enough, choose a narrow standard size of 40-45 cm. The depth of the product is essential if you plan to use hangers hung on a longitudinal clothing rod. If the project includes a pantograph or other mechanisms for the transverse hanging of hangers, then they are convenient to use at any depth of the compartments.

When designing a cabinet for a corridor to be assembled with your own hands, its height is determined based on the planned content, taking into account that a person of average height can reach things at a height of 2.1 m. However, structures are often designed that occupy the entire space up to the ceiling. For example, you can complement a homemade wardrobe by assembling mezzanines on top with your own hands. Thus, the functionality and capacity of the entire installation increases, and dust collector pockets are eliminated.

The width of furniture in a niche is usually chosen according to the maximum possible size. If the product is case-based and stands apart, then it all depends on personal desires or capabilities. It is taken into account that the wardrobe includes sliding doors, so their width should be such that there is free access to internal space. The minimum leaf width is 50 cm (if less, the door warps when moving), the maximum is 90 cm (with a larger width, the door becomes heavy, the load on the guides increases, and when opening, impacts occur on the side walls).

Assembly materials

The material for a niche cabinet can be laminated chipboard, MDF, wood, glass, laminated panels. If we choose laminated chipboard, then you need to pay attention to the following point. Only medium or high density material should be used, type E 1 or E 0.5 (low formaldehyde content). Also analogous to laminated chipboard medium density MDF can serve, and this material is more environmentally friendly. Laminated chipboard and MDF coatings are available in a wide range of colors and textures, so they can be selected to suit the most sophisticated needs.

Having completed a detailed study of the project, you can order cutting of the material at the selected specialized enterprise. You will need to provide the sawing shop with a full-fledged sketch with the dimensions of the parts (it will be difficult to remake the parts due to an error in the calculations), also indicating the type of slabs, edges, glass and other parts, in accordance with the factory catalog markings.

Assembly events

Do-it-yourself assembly activities should be considered if you are willing to devote a few days to them. Let's look at how to make a hallway cabinet with your own hands using the example of a cabinet product with three doors. The width of the doors is 60 cm, the width of the shelves in the amount of 4 pieces is 57 cm, the mezzanine with 5 compartments is 57 cm wide, shoe shelves– 2 pcs., same width. Assembly height – 240 cm.

  1. Assembly Tools:
  • 4 mm hex key for confirmats (Euro screws);
  • hammer;
  • Phillips screwdrivers No. 1 and No. 2;
  • tape measure 3-5 m;
  • building level;
  • screwdriver or drill;
  • drills 2.5, 5, 7 mm.
  1. Preparing the base.

First, let's prepare the base by securing the front and back stands with confirmations. To do this, through holes (for thickening the confirmat) are drilled 7 mm with a countersink for the head, and 5 mm for the screw part of the Euroscrew.

  1. Installation of partitions and shelves.

After the base is ready, place it vertically on the long side. We also attach the internal and lateral vertical partitions to it with confirmations. We attach the shelves with the top cover, but do not tighten them all the way yet. Since the section for outerwear is large, it is necessary to secure additional stiffeners inside it on the back of the closet between the side wall and the partition.
We turn the structure over, resting it completely on the base, and check with a building level that it is installed without slopes. At this stage, you may need an assistant.

  1. Rear wall

We check the diagonals: lower left corner and upper right, upper left corner and lower right. If the distances coincide, we wrap all the untwisted confirmations until they stop and fasten the back wall. Fiberboard sheets are usually used for it, ideal option for a three-section cabinet - that’s three fiberboard sheet. We nail them with small nails; you should not rush, as if you miss, you can damage the edges of the shelves or partitions. The joints are additionally nailed with special spider-shaped brackets.

  1. Installation of door guides.

Screw the bottom rail onto the self-tapping screws checkerboard pattern, deepening them so that the door rollers do not subsequently “stumble” over the fastener heads. Holes for self-tapping screws must be prepared with a 2.5 mm drill. The distance from the rail to the edge of the base should be 15 mm. Next, similarly fix the top rail to the lid.

  1. Clothes rails and accessories.

We prepare 2.5 mm blind holes on the walls. The distance from the top cover to the center of the rod should be the same on both sides. We secure the base of the bar under the outerwear with self-tapping screws on the left side, insert the bar with the base on the right, screw the fasteners on the right side (for a solid bar) or fasten it to the stand.
We mark and fasten accessories with self-tapping screws.

  1. Hanging doors.

The side doors are hung first, then the central door. For hanging we start top part sash into the far groove of the upper guide, then, pressing it up, we close bottom part into the far groove of the bottom rail. Similarly, we hang the front sash into the nearby grooves of the guides.
The final stage is installing plugs to match the color of the cabinet into the heads of euroscrews and gluing self-adhesive seals to the edges of the doors. The seal will protect the contents of the cabinet from dust, as well as from structurally destructive impacts of doors on the side walls or each other.

  1. How to make a mezzanine in the hallway with your own hands for a wardrobe?

There are two options. The first is to make a built-in wardrobe combined with a mezzanine. It is assembled according to the same scheme as without it, only in this case the mezzanine cover will be the attachment point for the upper guide sliding door. The second, when the mezzanine is a separate block, installed already in assembled form on a mounted wardrobe.

Conclusion

The article describes the main points that those who want to build their own unique cabinet model with sliding doors. Manufacturing and assembly of furniture, even experienced craftsmen does not always go smoothly, so the home craftsman will have to show maximum attention and responsibility at all stages from design to assembly of the wardrobe.

Wardrobe – great solution for rooms with limited space. The doors slide apart, like on a train, which allows you to install the cabinet in small hallways And narrow corridors. A similar design is offered in all furniture showrooms, but the standard dimensions do not always suit your room size. You can order a cabinet designed according to your measurements based on the features of your room, but the cost of one copy doubles. For those who need a cabinet larger or smaller than a standard one, there is another solution - to assemble the structure with your own hands. This is not very difficult to do if you know where to start.

photos

Choosing a cabinet design and placement option

Placing the cabinet in a niche. Designers of residential premises are sometimes very inventive, which is why half of the typical houses have niches of unknown purpose in the hallway. It is in this niche that you can make a wardrobe. To do this, you will need to install door guides and order the doors themselves with fittings. This way you save space, time and money.

Wardrobe along the entire length of the wall. Good decision is the installation of a cabinet along the entire length of the wall. Firstly, the room is not broken up by the corners of the furniture and does not visually lose space. Secondly, such a cabinet can serve not only as a wardrobe, but also as a storage room where skates, skateboards, skis and even car tires are stored.

A sliding wardrobe can separate the hallway area from the living area in studio apartments. The wardrobe is installed across the entire width of the room, with a through compartment door in its center and compartments for clothes on the sides. Some people prefer to make all doors on two sides, which provides access to clothes from the hallway and bedroom at the same time. Very convenient option, when access to outerwear is from the hallway, and access to bed linen is from the living room.

Materials

The most optimal materials for creating a cabinet are chipboard and high- or medium-density MDF. This material not very expensive and relatively dense. But when choosing chipboard be sure to pay attention to its category (must be E-1) and coating (preferably laminated on all sides). When heated, chipboard releases formaldehyde and phenol, so if your hallway has heating pipes, then don’t take risks and choose another material. Another disadvantage of chipboard can be considered the weak retention of screws.

MDF is safe for humans because when heated, lignin, which is contained in natural wood, is released. True, the price of MDF is significantly higher, and it is a fire hazardous material.

Wood is a traditional material, however, if you are planning to make a built-in wardrobe, it is better not to use it. concrete wall additional moisture is created, and spruce and pine, from which boards are usually made, have low moisture resistance.

It is better not to use drywall, because this material is not for the manufacture of load-bearing structures. It's fragile and if you don't think it through complex design bases, will not hold the wardrobe doors.

One of possible options is to preliminary design a cabinet, and then purchase ready-made components in stores or create such components to order in a workshop (it’s still cheaper than buying ready-made furniture).

What to consider when designing

When you design your own wardrobe, consider the following:

  • wasted space (this is something that takes up space but is not used for its intended purpose. In this particular case, it is sliding system. It is necessary to lay 10 cm on it and add it to the usable space, which should be at least the width of the hanger. Thus, the depth of a wardrobe with a standard rod is: the width of the largest hanger + 10 cm for the convenience of placing things + 10 cm for the door mechanism);
  • if you are assembling on the floor (do not mount the cabinet in a niche or directly to the wall), then the height of the structure must be at least 10 cm lower than the height of the ceiling in the hallway with a depth of 70 cm, and preferably even more so that you can raise and place the cabinet vertically;
  • if you plan to place the cabinet on adjustable support legs, then make room for them next to the nearest partition (no further than 30 cm from it);
  • The rigidity of the structure is ensured by transverse ribs on the rear wall of the cabinet; without them, the structure will wobble;
  • if the space does not allow you to install a cabinet with a standard longitudinal rod, lay down several sections for the transverse rod;
  • When designing drawers, add 7 mm in the gap between the fronts to the protruding width of the bottom rail. If this is not done, the drawers will not close;
  • the most important thing when designing internal sections is to take into account the width sliding design! Therefore, decide in advance on the number and width of doors, so that you can then adjust the entire system to them. If the width of the door does not match the width of the chest of drawers, the drawers will not open. Bulkheads between compartments must coincide with the boundaries of the doors;
  • the shelves have a distance of about 30 cm;
  • the compartment for hanging clothes is calculated based on the length of the longest item and another 10 cm is added to it;

Any closet, especially if there is only one in an apartment, should have sections for storing outerwear, shoes, hats, linen, bed linen, suitcases, pillows, blankets, dresses, jackets and trousers. The picture shows the optimal placement of sections in a hallway closet.

Drawings can be made in design programs: "Astro Furniture Designer", "Pro 100", "bCAD" and others.